G^M
CHARLES F BOUN
CHARLES F BOUN
HISTORY "^
of the
Y
akima Valle
Washington
Comiprismg
Yakima, Kittitas and Benton
Counties
y
By PROFESSOR W. D. LYMAN
Illustrated
VOLUME I
THE S. J. CLARKE PUBLISHING CO.
1919
1369772
PREFACE
In presenting this work to the public the author desires to make acknowledg-
ments to the man}- in different parts of the field whose assistance in the collection
of data has been indispensable to accuracy and interest. Special mention is due
to members of the Advisory Board. Inasmuch as a little change has occurred
since the issuance of the prospectus, it is proper to name here the members of
the Board as finally settled. They include Messrs. A. E. Larson, H. J. .Snively,
F. C. Hall, Fred Parker, A. W. Cofifin, David Longmire, L. V. McWhorter, of
Yakima ; Prof. Selden Smyser, Miss Mary A. Grupe, Mrs. J. B. Davidson, Oliver
Hinman, Hon. Austin Mires and Judge Ralph Kauffman, of Ellensburg;
Messrs. A. G. jMcNeill and G. W. Hamilton, of Prosser; Messrs. L. E. Johnson,
J. J. Rudkin, E. M. Sly and A. R. Gardner, of Kennewick.
To the intelligent and helpful cooperation of these advisers a great debt of
thankfulness is due. Gratitude is also owed to those who have contributed special
articles for the last chapter, that of "Recollections." These articles, as well as
the n.imes of the authors, speak for themselves. After reading them, the readers
will unquestionably add their thanks to our own for these essential additions to
the value and interest of the book.
Others have added data and suggestions of great value, and to them we
make our acknowledgments in the body of the work. We wish, however, -to
include here the name of Mr. Gerrit d'Ablaing, of Ellensburg, as having .provided
a large amount of invaluable material in written form.
.Special note may be made of the hearty cooperation of the newspaper men
all over the field. Every newspaper in the three counties ha' been consuhed.
They and their publishers and editors appear in full in the chapter on "The
Press of the Yakima Valley," and need not be particularized here. Specific
mention may be made, however, of files of the earliest Yakima and Ellensburg
papers loaned by Mr. C. B. Bagley, of Seattle, some of them probably the only
copies in existence, part of what is doubtless the most complete collection of
ne\vs]5aper files in the State.
The author desires also to include in his note of thanks the valuable aid of
his wife in reading and correcting manuscript and proofs, and thus greatly expe-
ilitin.t; the preparation of the work.
It may be added that, in the conception of the author, a work of this nature
must deal with the great vital general features of growth and development
rather than with the minutiae of special interests. He has. therefore, avoided the
encyclopedic method of treatment into which local histories sometimes fall. A
work of this kind cannot, in his judgment, be a gazetteer or a volume of statistics.
The end sought has rather been a portrayal of the great working forces, which,
throughout the West — and in this instance in the Yakima A'alley— have planted
iv Preface.
Americaii civilization in the wilderness and transformed the desert into the
realms of beauty and productiveness which compose the scene of our story.
It will be observed that a topical method of arrangement has been followed.
In the opinion of the author this is conducive to distinctness and unity of
impression. It involves a few repetitions. These, it is believed, will not be a
blemish, but will rather enhance the force of the connections of the different
phases of the story.
Grand and beautiful in its natural features, the Yakima Valley has become
inspiring by its exemplification of the results of the industrj' and intelligence of
its inhabitants. We leave it, therefore, in this good year of 1918, in the full
assurance that its development, great as it is, has but begim.
CONTENTS
PART I
CHAPTER I.
PHYSICAL AND ABORIGINAL HISTORY.
PHYSICAL AND GEOLOGICAL FEATURES — GEOLOGY OF THE YAKIMA VALLEY, BY' MISS
RUTH JOHNSON — IN THE EOCENE PERIOD GEOLOGY OF YAKIMA VALLEY, AS
DESCRIBED BY GEORGE OTIS SMITH — PRE-TERTIARY PERIODS TERTIARY PERIOD
— EOCENE EPOCH — PRE-TERTIARY ROCKS — EASTON SCHIST — PESHASTIN FORMA-
TION— YAKIMA BASALT — GOLD-QUARTZ VEINS NICKEL AND QUICKSILVER
COAL — BUILDING STONE — ARTESIAN WATER^KITTITAS VALLEY 33
CHAPTER II
THE NATIVE' RACES OF CENTRAL WASHINGTON
THE NATIVE RACES OF CENTRAL WASHINGTON — LITERATURE OF INDIAN LIFE—
AN INDIAN DEMOSTHENES — CLAIMANTS SATISFIED; SCALP SAVED INDIAN
MYTHOLOGY — INDIAN NAMES — INDIAN MYTHS — STUDENTS OF INDIAN
MYTHS — ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE YAKIMA VALLEY 74
CHAPTER III
ERA OF DISCOVERY
DAYS OF FIRST DISCOVERY — THE "ERA OF LIARS" — RUSSIA WAKES UP — SPAIN'S
OPPORTUNITY — HECETa's ACCOUNT — ACTUAF, DISCOVERY OF THE COLUMBIA
RIVER — FUR TRADE BEGINS — THE COLUMBIA REDIVIVA — THE GEOGRAPHICAL
SPHINX — THE SIZE OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER 103
CHAPTER IV
EXPLORATIONS BY LAND
EXPLORATIONS BY LAND LOUISIANA PURCHASE LEWIS AND CLARK EXPEDITION
INDIAN'S VAPOR BATHS MEASURING THE RIVERS START ON RETURN JOURNEY
— JEFFERSON'S TRIBUTE TO CAPTAIN LEWIS 120
CONTENTS
CHAPTER \'
ERA OF TRAPPERS. HUNTERS AND TRAH^-MAKERS
STARTING OF THE FUR TRADE — PROFITS OF THE BUSINESS — AMERICAN FUR COM-
PANIES FOUNDING OF ASTORIA THE FREE TRAPPERS — RECORD OF DISASTER —
SOME STORIES OF THE FUR TRADERS ROSs' STORV — HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY —
THE BOATS OF THE TRADERS LATER AMERICAN FUR TRADERS — SOME UNIQUE
FREE TRAPPERS 131
CHAPTER VI
THE MISSIONARY PERIOD
THE "book OF life" — FIRST CHRISTIAN CRUSADERS — MRS. WHITMAN'S DIARY —
THE WHITMAN CONTROVERSY LOVEJOY's LETTER — WHITMAN'S LETTER TO
SECRETARY POKTER — MRS. PRINGLE ON WHITMAN — THE WHITMAN MASSACRE
— ST. JOSEPH MISSION BURNED 166
CHAPTER VII
COMING OF THE IMMIGRANTS
FIRST COMEK.S — GOVERNMENT EXPEDITIONS THE GREAT IMMIGR.VTION FIRST
IMMIGRATION THROUGH YAKIMA — GEORGE II. HIMES' LETTER To E/.R.\
MEEKER — WINTHROP'S DESCRIPTION OF SCENERY AND OF ADVENTURE.'^ — THE
PROVISIONAL GOVERNMENT 19.3
CHAPTER VIII
PERIOD OF INDIAN WARS
:KER-STEVENS controversy — war chiefs of THE INDIANS — THE CAYUSE
WAR "lawyer" — DIAGRAM OF RESERVATION AND ORDER OF WITHDR.VWAL —
OUTBREAK OF WAR BOLON MURDER BATTLES IN VAKIM.\ DISCORD BETWEEN
VOLUNTEERS AND REGULARS — WALLA WALLA CAMPAIGN — VICTORY OK THE
VOLUNTEERS — AFTERMATH OF THE WARS — THE DE.VTH OF LESCill — A NEW
ORDER OF THINGS — STEPTOE's DEFE.XT END OF THE WAR — NEZ PERCE WAR
IN THE WALLOWA, IN 1877 THE PERKINS MURDER — STORY OF KAKI.Y DAYS:
CHIEF MOSES SHOWN IN HIS TRUE LIGHT TRE.VTY WITH THE YAKIMAS,
1855 222
CONTENTS
PART II
CHAPTER I
ERA OF EARLY GROWTH AND THE MOTHER COUNTY
FIRST SETTLEMENTS — FIRST REAL SETTLER — DEALING WITH THIEVING INDIANS —
GROWING SETTLEMENT — MINING IN YAKIMA VALLEY — SOME CHARACTERISTIC
STORIES OF OLD TIMES 266
CHAPTER II
COUNTY MAKING AND OFFICIAL RECORDS OF THE MOTHER
COUNTY OF YAKIMA
AN ACT ESTABLISHING AND ORGANIZING YAKIMA COUNTY — ELECTION OF 1876
ELECTION OF 188^1 ELECTION OF 1888 FIRST ELECTION OF UNITED STATES
SENATOR — ELECTION OF 1892 ELECTION OF 1912 ELECTION OF 1916
GOVERNORS OF TERRITORY — TERRITORIAL DELEGATES IN CONGRESS — OTHER
OFFICIALS UNDER TERRITORIAL GOVERNMENT — ADDRESSES BY' EX-GOVERNOR
MOORE AND GOVERNOR FERRY FINANCIAL STATEMENT YAKIMA EXPORT
PRODUCTION — SOME CONCLUDING STATISTICS 2S3
CHAPTER HI
THE TRANSPORTATION AGE
THE STEAMBOAT ERA — OREGON STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY — CAPTAINS, PILOTS,
AND PURSERS — THE PIONEER STAGE LINES THE RAILROAD AGE — THE WAR ON
THE RAILROAD — THE GREAT BOOM — NEW RAILWAY LINES — THE INTERURBAN
RAILWAYS WATER TRANSPORTATION 329
CHAPTER IV
IRRIGATION IN THE VALLEY
?IGATU1\ LAWS — AN ACT RECULATI XC; IRRIGATION AND WATER RIGHTS — RECLAMA-
TION ACT — PRIVATE IRRIGATION SYSTEMS — LATER AND LARGER PRIVATE CANALS
— IRRIGATION IN THE KITTITAS — THE SUNNYSIDE CANAL COWICHE AND WIDE
HOLLOW IRRIGATION DISTRICT — THE CONGDON DITCH, OR YAKIMA VALLIA'
CANAL THE WAPATOX CANAL — NACHES-SELAH CANAL KONNEWOCK CANAL
— LATER HISTORY OF IRRIGATION IN THE LOWER VALLEY' — RICHLAND, HANFORD
AND WHITE BLUFFS SECTIONS — SUMMARY' OF PRIVATE ENTERPRISES — GOVERN-
MENT PROJECTS- — STATE PROJECTS — DESIGNATION OF UNITS — SUNNYSIDE
PROJECT AND EXTENSIONS — THE STORAGE SYSTEMS — COMPLETION OF THE
CONTENTS
TIETON PROJECT — COST t)F TIETON SYSTEM — THE LAKE RESERVOIRS — BUMPING
LAKE RESERVOIR KACHESS LAKE RESERVOIR LAKE KEECHELUS RESERVOIR
LAKE CLE ELUM RESERVOIR — ACREAGE UNDER GOVERNMENT PROJECT— SOME
OF THE POETRY OF IRRIGATION — ANNOUNCEMENTS, ETC. 347
CHAPTER \'
FOUNDING AN/D MUNICIPAL GROWTH OF NORTH YAKIMA
MOVING THE CITY — ABSTRACT OF X. P. K. R. LANDS FOR TOWNSITE OF NORTH
YAKIMA TRUSTEE PROPERTY. NORTH YAKIMA PRESENT RESIDENTS WHO
MOVED — A TOUGH PLACE AT FIRST — THE CITY CHARTER — POWERS OF THE
CORPORATION GOVERNMENT ELECTION — THE MAYOR, HIS POWERS AND
DUTIES — ORDINANCES MISCELLANEOUS PROVISIONS SOME STEPS IN MUNICI-
PAL LIFE MANY PIONEER BUILDINGS LEFT AFTER TWENTY-FIFTH BIRTHDAY
ANNIVERSARY — TO KEEP OPEN HOUSE — FIRST DRUG STORE — ^TWO FACTIONS —
AN ACT TO REMOVE COUNTY SEAT FROM Y'AKIMA CITY' TO NORTH Y'AKIMA —
ADVERTISEMENTS FROM "hERALD" "tO THE READING PUBLIC"' — INVITATION
PARTY' — NORTH Y'AKIMA, ITS RAPID GROWTH AND ITS RESOURCES: FROM THE
PORTLAND "OREGON! an" 392
CHAPTER VI
SCHOOLS. CHURCHES AND SOCIETIES OF YAKIMA
SCHOOLS STATISTICS OF 1918 DIRECTORY OF TEACHERS, 1917-18 PRIVATE
SCHOOLS — WOODCOCK ACADEMY THE CHURCHES — AHTANUM — CHURCHES
AND PASTORS OF YAKIMA AT PRESENT DATE FRATERNAL ORDERS YAKIMA
COMMERCIAL CLUB — THE STATE FAIR "rEPUBLIC's" WRITE-UP OF FAIR^
herald's description of events. ETC. 454
CHAPTER VII
THE PRESS OF THE Y'AKIMA VALLEY
THE first paper — ADVS. IN THE FIRST ISSUE OF THE "rECORD" THE "SIGNAL"
THE "localizer" — DEATH OF D. J. SCHNEBLY — THE "SPECTATOR" AND ITS
EDITORS LATER NEWSPAPERS AND SPECIAL PUBLICATIONS OF YAKIMA AND
ELLENSBURG — TRANSIENT PAPERS OF YAKIMA AND ELLENSBURG PAPERS OF
THE OTHER TOWNS — THE PRESS IN THE SMALLER TOWNS OF YAKIMA COUNTY
THE PRESS IN BENTON COUNTY PROSSER PAPERS — INDIAN, CAYUSE AND
COYOTE — IRRIGATED LANDS NEAR PROSSER THE NORTHERN PACIFIC COMPANY
PROSSER — PROSSER's WATER POWER — HORSE HEAVEN COUNTRY — KIONA AND
BENTON CITY PAPERS KENNEWICK PAPERS KENNEWICK ON THE COLUMBIA
496
CONTENTS ix
CHAPTER VIII
THE YAKIMA INDIAN RESERVATION
OUTLINE OF HISTORY OF THE RESERVATION ALLOTMENT OF LAND IN SEVERALTY
IRRIGATION ON THE RESERVATION — FACTS FROM GOVERNMENT REPORTS —
STORAGE WATER — PRINCIPAL CROPS CENSUS OF CROPS. 1916-17-18 WHAT
CHIEF WATERS SAYS INDIANS ARE WELL PLEASED EQUAL RIGHTS WITH
WHITES — EXTRACTS FROM ARTICLE BY SUPERINTENDENT S. A. M, YOUNG.._539
PART III
CHAPTER I
COUNTY DIVISION AND DEVELOPAIENT OF THE TWO
YOUNGER COUNTIES
BEGINNINGS IN THE KITTITAS VALLEY
FIRST SETTLERS WHEELER BLOCK-HOUSE — BEGINNINGS OF I.MPROVE.MKNTS
ROADS AND BRIDGES IRRIGATION — MILLS — DEVELOPMENT OF MINERAL RE-
SOURCES COAL — BEGINNINGS OF STOCKRAISING AND FARMING CORRESPOND-
ENCE FROM THE "standard" — "tENDERFOOT" TAKES A TRIP TOWN AND
COUNTY — LETTER FROM SWAUK — HISTORY OF KITTITAS VALLEY, BV THE
SIXTH GRADE, EDISON SCHOOL, ELLENSBURG 563
CHAPTER II
POLITICAL HISTORY AND LATER DEVELOPMENT OF KITTITAS
COUNTY
COUNTY DIVISION — EDITORIALS — THE GRUMBLING FEW — A IXKIICAL OPINION — PE-
TITION FOR DIVISION — TO ALL PERSONS WHOM IT MAY CONCERN — AN ACT TO
CREATE AND LOCATE THE COUNTY OF KITTITAS PAY OF COUNTY OFFICERS —
AN ACT TO CHANGE BOUNDARY LINE BETWEEN KITTITAS AND YAKIMA COUN-
TIES— INAUGURATION OF THE NEW COUNTY — FIRST COUNTY — ELECTION REC-
ORDS— STATEHOOD WALLA WALLA STATESMAN'S REVIEW OF FUSION 1ST CON-
VENTION, 1898 — Bryan's visit — woman suffrage — constitutional amend-
ments— election of 1914 — election of 1916 — election of 1918 — later
general history of county — irrigation — cascade irrigation district
summary of engineer's report on canal improvements — special meet-
ing, board of county commissioners — RAILROADS — BUILDING THE C. M. &
ST. p. RAILWAY THROUGH KITTITAS COUNTY ^THE COAL MINES KITTITAS
EXHIBITS AT NORTHWESTERN INDUSTRIAL EXPOSITION, AS PUBLISHED IN
"WASHINGTON STATE REGISTER" 592
CONTEXTS
CHAPTER III
THE CITY OF ELLENSBURG
FIRST SETTLEMENT, LAYING OUT OF TOWN SITE AND CHARTER YEARS OF EARLY
GROWTH ADVERTISEMENTS AND EXTRACTS FROM "KITTITAS STANDARD" OF
JULY, 1883, INCLUDING "DIRECTORY," EDITORIAL AND NEWS ITEMS — POEM,
"KITTITAS VALLEY'" ELLENSBURGH DESCRIBED, DECEMBER, 1883 FIRST
THINGS IN ELLENSBURG CHRISTMAS TREE AND SUNDRY SOCIAL EVENTS,
1883 — CITY CHARTER AN ACT TO INCORPORATE ELLENSBURGH, ETC. THE
"standard" SKETCHES ELLENSBURGH IN 1885 ITEMS FROM "LOCALIZER,"
APRIL, 1889 QUARTERLY APPORTIONMENT OF SCHOOL MONEY, APRIL, 1889—
FIRE OF JULY 4, 1889 BUSINESS FAILURES — THE WATER QUESTION EDI-
TORIAL ON CITY WATER SUPPLY — CITY GOVERNMENT MAYOR's MESSAGE —
MAYORS AND CLERKS, 1886 TO 1918 CAUCUS FOR CITY OFFICERS, NOVEMBER
5. 1918 643
CHAPTER IV
SCHOOLS, CHURCHES AND SOCIETIES OF ELLENSBURG
THE SCHOOLS— DISTRICTS KITTITAS COUNTY TEACHERS SCHOOL BOARD — TEACHERS
IN PUBLIC SCHOOLS — CLE ELUM SCH(K)LS STATE NORMAL SCHOOL BOARD OF
TRUSTEES — STATE BOARD OF EDUCATION ADMINISTRATIVE STAFF — FACULTY
FOR 1918-19 CHURCHES OF ELLENSBURG INTO THE HOSTILE CAMP — FRA-
TERNAL AND MISCELLANEOUS SOCIETIES THE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE: CON-
STITUTION AND BY-LAWS OFFICERS AND TRUSTEES KITTITAS COUNTY IN THE
SPANISH-AMERICAN WAR — CITY LIBRARY OK ELLENSBURG 703
CHAPTER V
POLITICAL HISTORY AND DE\'ELOPMENr OF BENTON COUNTY
EARLIEST SETTLERS — BENTON COUNTY A NATURAL UNIT AGITATION FOR NEW
COUNTY AN ACT TO CREATE THE COUNTY OF BENTON BENTON COUNTY AN
ACTUAL FACT BENTON COUNTY GETTING READY' BENTON COUNTY THE
RAILROAD COMMISSION BENTON COUNTY DOING BUSINESS OFFICERS' BONDS
FILED — COUNTY NEWS NOTES — RECORD OF ELECTIONS — ELECTION OF 1912
ELECTION OF 1914 ELECTION OF 1916 ELECTION OF 1918 COUNTY SEAT
QUESTION SCHOOLS OF THE COUNTY — TEACHERS OF BENTON COUNTY 736
CONTENTS
CHAPTER VI
A TOURNEY THROUGH THE VALLEY— KITTITAS AND YAKIMA
COUNTIES
CLE ELUil AXD ROSLVN — COAL DISCOVERED — CLE ELUM FIRE: DESCRIPTION' AND
EDITORIALS FROM THE "ECHO" CLE ELUM HISTORY THE CLE ELUM "eCHo"
—LODGES — SCHOOLS — ROSLYN FIRE AND STRIKE — BANK ROBBERY AT ROSLYN
ROSLYN CHURCHES ROSLYN INCORPORATED HEAVY VOTING AT PRIMARIES
(1918) MINERS ELECT OFFICIALS — FROM COAL CENTERS TO ORCHARDS THE
VILLAGE OF THORP — TOWN OF SELAH SELAH GAP AND PAINTED ROCKS SODA
SPRINGS — NACRES AHTENUM, WILEY CITY, TAMPICO, MOXEE CITY BELOW
POHOTECUTE — -"hOW IT HAPPENED"- — WAPATO TOPPENISH^ — TOPPfiNISH EX-
CEEDS LOAN QUOTA — TOWNS ON NORTH SIDE OF RIVER PARKER BOTTOM
2ILLAH AND GRANGER THE NORTHWEST MAGAZINE ON "IRRIGATED LANDS"
GRANGER SUNNYSIDE AND GRANDVIEW SCHOOLS OF SUNNYSIDE CHURCHES
IN SUNNYSIDE THE SUNNYSIDE "SUN" — SOME SUNNYSIDE PRODUCTS GRAND-
VIEW — GRANDVIEW ROLL OF HONOR— CROP STATISTICS — IRRIGATION BRINGS
GOLD FROM LAND 760
CHAPTER VII
A JOURNEY THROUGH THE VALLEY— BENTON COUNTY
PROSSER — THE TOWNSITE — ABSTR.ACT OF TITLE — MUNICIPAL GOVERNMENT IN
PROSSER — COMMERCIAL CLUB OF PROSSER — INTERESTING RECORDS FROM
PROSSSER NEWSPAPERS A MACHINE SHOP FOR THE TOWN THE GENERATOR
HERE — CELEBRATION A GRAND SUCCESS : A FLOW OF ORATORY — THE SPORTS—
AT THE RIVER— FIREWORKS AND BALL PROSPECTS GOOD FOR GOVERNMENT
IRRIGATION SOME ADVERTISEMENTS IN "BULLETIN," 1905 CHURCH SOCIE-
TIES— SECRET SOCIETIES — SCHOOLS, CHURCHES AND LODGES OF THE PRESENT
KIONA AND BENTON CITY KENNEWJCK : GEOLOGICAL CONDITIONS MAKING
KENNEWICK WHAT IT IS TODAY — INDIANS — KENNEWICK DERIVATION — iN
1883 TO 1889 SCHOOLS irrigation and developments BUSINESS
HOUSES OF KENNEWICK ADVERTISEMENTS AND "kENNEWICKLES" FROM
THE "courier" — CITY GOVERNMENT IN KENNEWICK PETITION FOR INCOR-
PORATION— FIRST ORDINANCES OF THE COUNCIL — MAYORS AND CLERKS TO
DATE — SCHOOLS, CHURCHES AND SOCIETIES KENNEWICK COMMERCIAL CLUB
MEMBERS, 1906 CELILO CANAL CELEBRATION — AT WALLULA — AT BIG EDDY
THE SMALLER RIVER TOWNS^MAY START DAM BY CHRISTMAS — ASSOCIATED
CHARITIES ASK SUPPORT — APPLE HARVEST ON — BASH WINS IN HARD FIGHT
LEMCKE BRINGS IN BIG TRACTOR 811
CONTENTS
CHAPTER VIII
THE CAMP-FIRES AND TALK-FESTS OF THE PIONEERS
ORGANIZING PIONEER ASSOCIATION — WOMEN's CLUBS OFFICERS OF KITTITAS
PIONEERS — RECOLLECTIONS OF O. A. FECHTER — HEADGATES OF CANAL RAISED —
FIRST REAL ESTATE BOOM — THE BUBBLE BURSTS TOWN WAS WIDE OPEN
PIONEERS — THE WOMAN's CLUB, YAKIMA MUSICAL CLUB — TWENTIETH CEN-
TURY CLUB PORTIA CLUB HOME ECONOMICS CLUB THE COTERIE CLUB ART
COMMITTEE YAKIMA VALLEY DISTRICT FEDERATION MOTHER'S CONGRESS
D. A. R. CHAPTER P. E. O. WAR ORGANIZATIONS — MRS. H.VRRISON'S RIXUL-
LECTIONS OF THE BUILDING OF SUNNYSIDE — TOWN BUILDING OLD TIMES IN'
THE YAKIMA VALLEY, AS NARRATED BY MRS. WARNECKE RETURN TO PENDLE-
TON A FERRY BOAT THE FIRST GIRL's RECOLLECTIONS OF KENNEWICK —
SAGEBRUSH EVERYWHERE PREEMPT A CLAIM FIRST BUSINESS BUILDING
MEADOW lark's SONG LINGERS TWO NOTED CONTEMPORARY INDIAN CHIEFS,
AS GIVEN BY L. V. MCWIIORTER 890
History of Yakima Valley
PART I
PHYSICAL AXD ABORIGIXAL HISTORY.
CHAPTER I. .
PHYSICAL AND GEOLOGICAL FEATURES — GEOLOGY OF THE YAKI.MA \ALLLY, IIY MISS
RfTH JOHNSON — IN THE EOCENE PERIOD GEOLOGY OF YAKIMA VALLEY, AS
DESCRIBED BY GEORGE OTIS SMITH — PRE-TERTIARV PERIODS — TERTIARY PERIOD
— EOCENE EPOCH PRE-TERTIARY ROCKS EASTON SCHIST PESHASTIN FORMA-
TION YAKIMA BASALT GOLD-OUARTZ ' VEINS NICKEL AND QUICKSILVER
COAL — BUILDING STONE — ARTESIAN WATER KITTITAS VALLEY.
PHYSICAL AND GEOLOGICAL FEATURES.
The Yakima \'allcy is the largest valley in the state of Washington, except
that of the Columbia itself, to which it is tributary, and is equalled in area only
by the valleys of the Willamette and Snake in the entire Northwest. For physical
interest and charm, as well as for fertility of soil and extent and variety of
resources, it has no superior in all that remarkable region which composes the
Northwest. It is probable that a larger percentage of this valley can be made
productive, when brought under irrigation, than that of any other part of the
Northwest. The amount of waste land is relatively very small, except in so far
as the aridity of the climate under natural conditions compels recourse to artificial
irrigation.
In general terms, it may be said that the region encompassed by the water
shed of the Yakima and its tributaries, bounded on the south by the branches of
the Klickitat and on the north by those of the Wenatchee, embraces an area from
the lakes at the head of the river to the Columbia, of about 170 miles in length
by an average of sixty-five miles in breadth. To one flying in an airship and
looking down upon this vast area, it would present a singular appearance. It
has no counterpart in the entire Northwest. It has a characteristic topography
which differentiates it from any other part of the country. Since the history
and development of this region is the natural sequence of this topography, it is
interesting to dwell upon it for a space. The peculiar characteristic is found in
the fact that here is a series of level valleys, separated by a regular series of sharp
ridges and connected by gaps through which the river and its tributaries have
forced their way. Level valleys, ridges, and gaps compose the physical structure
of the Yakima \'alley. From the mouth of the river upward, the whole area
is almost like an arm, with the fingers of a hand extended into the ridges branch-
(3)
34 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \'ALLEY
ing out from the Cascade Mountains upon the west. Every tributary of the
Yakima of any account arises in the Cascade Mountains or its spurs. The main
stream itself issues from the three splendid lakes — Keechelus, Kaches and Cle
Elum — with several smaller ones lying in the eastern flanks of the great range,
at an elevation of something less than 2,500 feet. The upper tributaries are the
Teanaway and Swauk on the north, and the Manashtash and Taneum on the
south. The Naches, the chief affluent of the Yakima, almost parallels the main
river, as it in turn curiously parallels the Columbia itself. A number of tribu-
taries enter the Naches, making of it a powerful stream not much inferior to
the main stream at the point of junction. The Bumping River, issuing from the
lake of the same name, at an elevation of 3,395 feet, conveys a strong volume
to the Naches, which is still further augmented by the swift inrush of the Tieton.
Both the Bumping and the Tieton draw their unfailing supplies from the towering
heights of the great Cascades, and by reason of this, as well as their relations to
the intervening ridges and plains below, they have become of the utmost impor-
tance in the irrigation systems of the valley. The Wenas, above the Naches, and
the Cowiche, the lowest tributary of the Naches, are small streams, not reaching
into the high mountains, but having played a very interesting and important part
in the life of the country.
The first stream entering the Yakima below the Naches is the Ahtanum,
coming directly from the west, and though not a large stream, having been asso-
ciated with every phase of the life of Yakima. Passing the mouth of the Ahtanum
and Union Gap, we find a group of related creeks, draining the vast expanses of
the Yakima Indian Reservation, the Sinicoe, Toppenish and the Satus, with
several smaller tributaries.
With this basis of .alternating valleys and ridges the Yakima \"alley is
discovered to consist of a series of distinct sections, interrelated and each consti-
tuting an entity of its own. Highest of all and immediately adjoining the lake
region, upon the flanks of the mountains, is the comparatively narrow and par-
tially timbered valley between Cle Elum and Thorp, the upper part of which is
the natural outlet for the vast Roslyn coal fields, and the lower part of which
contains the beginnings of the fertile plains, which occur next in order. The next
section is the Kittitas Valley, a circular valley of about thirty miles in diameter,
beautiful and fertile, fanned by the cool breezes of the snowy peaks, to give a
materially lower temperature than that of the lower valleys. Below the Kittitas
\'alley comes the long Yakima canon caused by the Manastash and Umptanum
ridges, a ragged mass of basaltic rock, completely isolating the Kittitas \'alley
from the lower prolongations of the valley, and composing the only large section
mainly incapable of cultivation. Twenty miles of this ragged mountain section,
and the heights suddenly widen into the broad expanses of the next section, that
of Selah and the Wenas. This section is closed in turn by the Naches and
Yakima ridges, and these ridges are broken by the next of those curious gaps,
this being at the junction of the Naches and the Yakima. The intercepting barrier
at this point is very narrow, and the next of the low, level, valley areas, that of
the Ahtanum, on the west and the Moxee on the east, side of the river, stretches
for many miles, emphasized by the undulating slight elevations which compose
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY . 35
the very hub of the valley and include the metropolis of the whole, the city of
Yakima and its environs. 'LoGB^/''^
This central section is closed in again by the inevitable ridges, those of me
Ahtanum and Moxee, which in turn have been carved open by the impetuous
river at Union Gap, properly known as Pahotacute or Pahquytekoot. Below
this gap, just as inevitable as the ridge and the river, comes the next section,
the largest expanse of level land in the entire state of Washington, the areas
of the Simcoe, Toppenish, Satus, and their tributaries on the south side of the
river, which here takes an easterly course, and on the north side of the vast
areas of the Zillah, Outlook, Sunnyside, Grandview and Rattlesnake sections.
This immense stretch of level land is curiously broken in the very center by
the apparently wholly superfluous ridge of Snipes Mountain, as though there
was just that much more material than the earth forces knew what to do with
and so they dumped it in parallel with the river. Even though marring some-
what the grand totality of level surface in this middle and lower Yakima sec-
tion. Snipes Mountain afifords a picturesque element of variety and provides
also a "Nob Hill" for Sunnyside and fertile slopes which under irrigation will
some day be among the most valuable lands of the valley. Below Kiona and
Benton City the great central valley is partially closed in again with a some-
what broken section of rocky land, though not of great height. On the south
steeper declivities ascend to the great plateau of tlie Horse Heaven country,
while on the north long slopes of gradually rising land swell upward to the
Rattlesnake Mountains. These two areas bounding the Valley on either side
are wheat sections, dry farming, but the lower slopes of the Rattlesnake will
be covered by the proposed "high line" canal, and the Horse Heaven is a nearly
level plateau, which will be irrigable some time by water from the Klickitat,
another system from that of the Yakima. The last section of all in this diver-
sified and richly resourceful valley, and what perhaps may be numbered as the
seventh in the series of distinctive features, is the eastern frontage including
the portion adjoining the Yakima River from the "Horn" to its mouth, together
with the long strip from Priest Rapids of the Columbia on the north to the
Umatilla Highlands on the south, a distance of about seventy miles along the
Columbia. This Yakima-Columbia section has such distinctive features as to
make it another world apart, and it all comes within the limits of Benton County.
Having navigable water along the entire eastern margin, embracing the lofty
height of Rattlesnake Mountains and several other treeless elevations, having
thousands of acres which need only water to repeat the miracles of the older
parts of the Yakima country, and having a climate of such high average
warmth as to border on the semi-tropical, and in fact having already nearly
rivalled California in date of entrance into the early fruit and vegetable mar-
ket,— this last section may be regarded as the great undeveloped region, wait-
ing for capital and labor to create a genuine American homeland of high order.
In the Rattlesnake Mountains is one feature, unique in character, not yet sufifi-
ciently developed to make safe prophecy, but which in the judgment of many
competent men may become the foundation of tremendous industrial power in
the future. We refer to the gas and oil area. This region, known to cattle-
men for many years before attracting attention to its industrial possibilities.
36 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
seems to denote a separate geological history from that of other parts of the
Yakima Valley.
Such may be regarded as a general view of the topography of the land
covered by this work. Occupying so considerable a section of the water shed of
the great Cascade Range on its eastern frontage, it necessarily follows that the
springs which feed its rivers have perpetual sources of supply in the snows
and glaciers of those lofty heights. About the headwaters of the Yakima and
Naches and their affluents are vast forests, second only to those on the western
slopes. In those great cordons of mountains are found, too, many indications
of mineral wealth, though as yet there has not been large development, except
in coal.
One has but to glance at a map to know at once that the upper Yakima
must be a land of scenic grandeur. We are not content to rely upon maps to
to tell the story, but must needs go and see. The two highest mountains of the
state, Adams and Takhoma (or Rainier), are within sight from many points
in the Yakima Valley. The former is nearer and is located in the southwest
corner of Yakima County. It is the dominating feature of the western land-
scape at every elevated point in the valley, and can be seen from every unob-
structed window on the west side of all the high buildings in the city of Yakima.
One of the pictures in this volume presents one of the finest views of Adams,
that from the Sunnyside Canal with the foreground of a typical irrigated sec-
tion. Other views in this volume, designed especially to illustrate the develop-
ment of the system of irrigation, give also a conception of that sublime margin
of regal mountains which sunder the western and the central parts of the state
of Washington. It is needless to state that the inhabitants of a region favored,
as those of Yakima are, with accessible scenic retreats and great play grounds
afforded by the Cascade Mountains, with their lakes and streams, their game
and fish, must have the camping out habit and taste fully developed. The
native sons and daughters of Yakima, and even newcomers, taste these wilder-
ness delights to the full. There is plenty of room. It is wild nature all around,
wholesome and life-giving. The author has made several trips to Mount
Adams and as expressing his sense of these features of nature which imixirt
such a zest to life in this region he is including some observations here of past
journeys and the characteristic experiences which so fascinate any one who
has ever been in the mountains of central Washington. It is of interest to note
that at time of writing this work a movement has been initiated by the Yakima
Commercial Club to induce the Federal Government to establish a National park
around and including Mount Adams.
Around Mount Adams is a region of caves. As one rides through the
open glades he may often hear the ground rumble beneath his horse's hoofs.
Mouths of Avemus yawn on every side. Some caverns have sunken in, leav-
ing serpentine ravines. One cave has been traced three miles. Some of these
caves are partially filled with ice. There is one in particular, fifteen miles
southwest of the mountain, which is known as Ice Cave. This is very small,
not over four hundred feet long, but it is a marvel of unique beauty. Its ex-
ternal appearance is that of a huge well, at whose edge are bunches of nodding
flowers, and from whose dark depths issue sudden chilly gusts. Descending
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY . 37
by means of a knotty young tree which previous visitors have let down, we find
ourselves on a floor of ice. The glare of pitchpine torches reveals a weird and
beautiful scene. A perfect forest of icicles of both the stalactite and stalagmite
forms fills the cave. They are from ten to fifteen feet in length and from one
to three feet in diameter. From some points of view they look like silvered
organ-pipes.
These caves have been formed in some cases by chambers of steam or
bubbles in the yet pasty rock which hardened enough to maintain their form
upon the condensation of the vapor. Others were doubtless produced by a tongue
of lava as it collected slag and hardened rock upon its moving edge, rising up
and curling over like a breaker on the sand. Only the "cave of flint" instead of
turning into a "retreating cloud" had enough solid matter to sustain an arch
and so became permanent. Others were no doubt formed by pyroducts. A
tongi'.e of flowing lava hardens on the surface. The interior remains fluid. It
may continue running until the tongue is all emptied, leaving a cavern. Such
a cavern, whose upper end reaches the cold air of the mountains, might be like
a chimney, down which freezing air would descend, turning into ice the water
that trickled into the cave, even at the lower end.
For sport, the region about Mount Adams is unsurpassed. The elk, three
kinds of deer, the magnificent mule deer, the black-tail, and the graceful little
white-tail, two species of bear, the cinnamon and black, the daring and ubiqui-
tous mountain goat, quail, grouse, pheasants, ducks, cranes, are among the
attractions to the hunter. Of late years great bands of sheep have driven the
game somewhat from the south and east sides. In the grassy glades that en-
circle the snowy pile of Adams no vexatious undergrowth impedes the gallop
of our fleet cayuse pony or obscures our vision. On the background of fragrant
greenery the "dun deer's hide" is thrown with statuesque distinctness, and
among the low trees the whirring grouse is easily discerned. Nor is the dis-
ciple of Nimrod alone considered. After our hunt we may move to Trout
Lake, and here the very ghost of the lamented Walton might come as to a
paradise. Trout Lake is a shallow pool half a mile in length, encircled with
pleasant groves and grassy glades, marred now, however, by the encroachment
of ranches. Into it there come at intervals from the ice-cold mountain inlet
perfect shoals of the most gamey and delicious trout. On rafts, or the two or
three rude skiffs that have been placed there, one may find all piscatorial joys
and may abundantly supply his larder free of cost. A few ranches here and
there furnish accommodations for those who are too delicate to rest on the
bosom of Mother Earth. But no extended trip can be taken without com-
mitting oneself to the wilderness delights of sleeping with star-dials for roof
and flickering camp-fire for hearth. And what healthy human being would
exchange those for the feverish, pampered life of the modern house? Let us
have the barbarism, and with it the bounding pulses and exuberant life of the
wilderness.
But now, with stomachs and knapsacks filled, and with that pervasive
sense of contentment which characterizes the successful hunter and angler, we
must drive up our cayuse ponies from their pastures on the rich grass of the
open woods, saddle up, and then ofif for the mountain, whose giant form now
38 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
overtops the very clouds. About two miles from Trout Lake the trail crosses
the White Salmon, and we find ourselves at the foot of the mountain. For
eight miles we follow a trail through open woods, park-like, with huge pines
at irregular intervals, and vivid grass and flowers between, a fair scene, the
native home of every kind of game.
As we journey on delightedly through these glades, rising, terrace after
terrace, we can read the history- of the mountain in the rock beneath our feet
and the expanding plains and hills below. All wilhin the ancient amphitheatre
is volcanic. There are four main summits, a central dome, vast, symmetrical,
majestic, pure-white against the blue-black sky of its unsullied height. The
three other peaks are broken crags of basalt, leaning as for support against the
mighty mass at the center. Around the snow-line of the mountain many minor
cones have been blown up. These have the most gaudy and brilliant coloring,
mainly yellow and vermilion. One on the southeast is especially noticeable.
From a deep canon it rises two thousand feet as steep as broken scoriae can lie.
The main part is bright red, sunnounted by a circular cliff of black rock.
Probably the old funnel of the crater became filled with black rock, which, cool-
ing, formed a solid core. The older material around it having crumbled away,
it remains a solid shaft.
But fire has not wrought all the wonders of the mighty peak. Ice has been
most active. The mountain was once completely girdled with glaciers. Rocks
are scratched and grooved five miles below the present snow-line. The ridges
are strewn with planed rocks and glacial shavings and course sand. Some of
the monticules on the flanks of the mountain have been partially cut away. Many
have been entirely obliterated. But the ice has now greatly receded. Instead
of a complete enswathement of ice there are some six or seven distinct glaciers,
separated by sharp ridges, while the region formerly the chief home of the ice
is now a series of Alpine meadows. Like most of the snow peaks, Mount
Adams is rudely terraced, and the terraces are separated into compartments
by ridges, forming scores and hundreds of glades and meads. In some of these
are cirailar ponds, from a few square rods to several acres in area. These
lakes are found by the hundred around the mountain and in the region north
of it. They are one of the charms and wonders of the country. About most
of them tall grass crowds to the very edge of the water. Scattered trees diver-
sify the scene. Throughout these glades flow innmnerable streams, descending
from level to level in picturesque cascades, and composed of water so cold and
sparkling that the very memory of it cools the after thirst. Sometimes the
tough turf grows clear over, making a verdant tunnel through which "the
tinkling waters slip." Here and there streams spout full-grown from frowning
precipices.
But we are not content to stand below and gaze "upward to that height."
We must needs ascend. In climbing a snow peak a great deal depends on making
camp at a good height and getting a very early start. By a little searching one
may find good camping jjlaces at an elevation of seven thousand or even eight
thousand feet altitude. This leaves only four thousand or five thousand feet
to climb on the great day, and by starting at about four o'clock a party may
have sixteen hours of daylight. This is enough, if there be no accidents, to
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 39
enable any sound man of average muscle, — or woman either, if she be properly
dressed for it, — to gain the mighty dome of Adams.
At the time of our last ascent we camped high on a great ridge on the
south side of the mountain, having for shelter a thick copse of dwarf firs. So
fiercely had the winds of centuries swept this exposed point that the trees did
not stand erect, but lay horizontal from west to east.
With pulses bounding from the exhilarating air, and our whole systems
glowing with the exercise and the wild game of the preceding week, we stretch
ourselves out for sleep, while the stars blaze from infinite heights, and our
uneasy camp-fire strives fitfully with the icy air which at nightfall always slides
down the mountain side.
Sweet sleep till midnight, and then we found ourselves awake all at once
with a unanimity which at first we scarcely understood, but which a moment's
observation made clear enough. A regular mountain gale had suddenly
broken upon us. It had waked us up by nearly blowing us out of bed. Our
camp-fire was aroused to newness of life by the gale, and the huge fire-brands
flew down the mountain side, igniting pitchy thickets, until a fitful glare illu-
minated the lonely and savage grandeur of the scene. The whole sky seemed
in motion. Then a cloud struck us. Night, glittering as she was a moment
before with her tiaras of stars, was suddenly transformed into a dull, whitish
blur. The vapor formed at once into thick drops on the trees and was precipi-
tated in turn on us. Occasional sleet and snowflakes struck us with almost the
sting of flying sand when we ventured to peep out. Covering ourselves up,
heads and all, we crowded against each other and grimly went to sleep.
We woke again, chattering with cold, to find it perfectly calm. The morn-
ing star was blazing over the spot where day was about to break. The sky
was absolutely clear, not a mote on its whole concavity. The wind had swept
and burnished it. The mountain towered above us cold and sharp as a crystal.
There was a still, solemn majesty about it in the keen air and early light which
struck us with a thrill of fear. The light just before daybreak is far more exact
than the scarlet splendor of morning or the blinding blaze of noon. The world
below us was a level set of clouds. We seemed to be on an island of snow and
rock, or on a small planetoid winging its own way in space. Yet beyond the
puncturing top of a few of the Simcoe peaks a wavering line that just touched
the glowing eastern sky, told of clear weather a hundred leagues up the basin
of the Columbia. Out of the ocean of cloud, the great peaks of Hood and St.
Helens rose, cold and white, like icebergs on an Arctic sea.
Cofifee, ham and hardtack and then out on the ice and snow, just as the
first warm flush of morning is gilding the mighty mass above us. The snow,
hardened by the freezing morning, affords excellent footing, and in the sharp,
bracing air we feel capable of any effort. We gain the summit of a bright red
knob, one of the secondary volcanoes that girdle the mountain. At its peak
are purple stones piled up like an altar, as indeed it is, though the incense from
it is not of human kindling. The sun is not fairly up, but from below the hori-
zon it splits the hemisphere of the sky into a hundred segments by its auroral
flashes. And now we begin to climb a volcanic ridge, rising like a huge stair-
way, with blocks of stone as large as a piano. This is a tongue of lava, very
40 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
recent, insomuch that it shows no glacial markings, and yet enough soil has
accumulated upon it to support vegetation. It can be seen, a dull red river,
three hundred yards wide, extending far down the mountain side. How well
the old Greek poet described the process that must have taken place here:
"jEtna, pillar of heaven, nurse of snow, with fountains of fire; a river of fire,
bearing down rocks with a crashing sound to the deep sea."
The ridge becomes very steep, at an angle of probably thirty-five or forty
degrees, and we climb on all fours from one rock to another. At last we draw
ourselves up a huge wedge of phonolite and find ourselves at the summit of the
first peak. Six hundred yards beyond, muffled in white silence, rises the great
dome. It is probably five hundred feet higher than the first peak. To reach
it we climb a bare, steep ridge of shaly, frost-shattered rock, in which we sink
ankle deep, a difficult and even painful task with the labored breathing of twelve
thousand feet altitude.
But patience conquers, and at about noon, seven hours and a half from the
time of starting, w^e stand on the very tip of the mountain. Ten minutes pant-
ing in the cold wind and then we are ready to look around. Within the circle
of our vision is an area for an empire. Northward is a wilderness of moun-
tains. High above all, Mount Rainier lifts his white crown unbroken to the
only majesty above him, the sky. The western horizon, more hazy than the
eastern, is punctuated by the smooth dome and steely glitter of Mount St.
Helen's. Far southward, across a wilderness of broken heights, rises the
sharp pinnacle of Mount Hood, and far beyond that, its younger brother, Jeffer-
son. Still beyond are the Alpine peaks of the Three Sisters, nearly two hun-
dred miles distant. Our vision sweeps a circle whose diameter is probably five
hundred miles. Far westward the white haze betokens the presence of the sea.
A deep blue Hne northwestward, far beyond the smooth dome of St. Helens,
stands for Puget Sound. Numerous lakes gleam in woody solitudes.
Having looked around, let us now Jook down. On the eastern side the
mountain breaks ofif in a monstrous chasm of probably four thousand feet,
most of it perpendicular. This is the face toward Yakima. We crawl as we
draw near it. Lying down in turn, secured by ropes held behind, fearful as
much of the mystic attraction of the abyss as of the slippery snow, we peep
over the awful verge. Take your turn, gentle reader, if you would know what
it seems to gaze down almost a mile of nearly perpendicular distance. Points
of rock jut out from the pile and eye us darkly. That icy floor nearly a mile
below us is the Klickitat glacier. From beneath it a milk-white stream issues
and crawls oflf amid the rocky desolation. At the very edge of the great preci-
pice stands a cone of ice a hundred feet high. Green, blue, yellow, red and
golden, the colors play with the circling sunbeams on its slippery surface, until
one is ready to believe that here is where rainbows are made. We roll some
rocks from a wind-swept point, and then shudder to see them go. They are lost
to the eye, as is their noise to the ear, long before they cease to roll. Silence
reigns. There is no echo. The thin air makes the voice sound weak. Our
loudest shouts are brief bubbles of noise in the infinite space. A pistol shot
is only a pufT of powder. Even the rocks we set ofT are swallowed up and we
get no response but the first reluctant clank as they grind the lip of the preci-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY . 41
pice. Nor do we care much for boisterous sounds. We are impelled rather to
silence and worship.
But now once more to earth and camp! For pure exhilaration, commend
me to descending a snow peak. For a good part of Mount Adams one may
descend in huge jumps through the loose scoriae and volcanic ashes. Some of
the way one may slide on the crusty snow, a perfect whiz of descent. How
the thin wind cuts past us, and how our frames glow with the dizzy speed!
Such a manner of descent is not altogether safe. As we are going in one place
with flying jumps on the softening snow, a chasm suddenly appears before us.
It looks ten feet wide, and how deep, no one could guess. To stop is out of the
question. We make a wild bound and clear it, catching a momentary glance
into the bluish-green crack as we fly across. We make the descent in an in-
credibly short time, only a little more than an hour, whereas it took us over
seven hours to ascend. And then the rest and mighty feasts of camp, and the
abundant and mountainous yarns, and the roaring camp-fire, whose shadows
flicker on the solemn snow-fields, until the stars claim the heavens, and, while
the wailing cry of the cougars rises from a jungle far below us, we sleep and
perform again in dreams the day's exploits.
Of all scenes in connection with Mount Adams, the most remarkable in all
the experiences of those who witnessed it, and one of those rare combinations
which the sublimest aspects of nature afford, was at the time of the outing of
the Mazama Club in 1902. The party had reached the summit in a dense fog,
cold, bitter, forbidding, and nothing whatever to be seen. All was dull, whit-
ish blur. In the bitter chill the enthusiasm of some of the climbers evaporated
and they turned away down the snowy waste. Others remained in the hope of
a vanishing of the cloud-cap. And suddenly their hopes were realized. A mar-
velous transformation scene was unveiled like the lifting of a vast curtain.
The cloud-cap was split asunder. The great red and black pinnacles of the
summit sprung forth from the mist like the first lines in a developing photo-
graphic plate. Then the glistening tiaras and thrones of ice and snow caught
the gleams of the unveiled sun, and lo, there we stood in mid-heaven, seem-
ingly upon an island in space, with no earth about us, just the sun and the sky
above and a great swaying ocean of fog below. But now suddenly that ocean
of fog was rent and split. The ardent sun burned and banished it away. Moun-
tain peak after peak caught the glory. Range after range seemed to rise and
stand in battle array. The transformation was complete. A moment before we
were swathed in the densest cloud-cap, blinded with the fog. Now we were
standing on a mount of transfiguration, with a new world below us. Every
vestige of smoke or fog was gone. We could see the shimmer of the ocean to
the west, the glistening bands of Puget Sound and the Columbia. Far east-
ward the plains of the Inland Empire lay palpitating in the July sun. The
whole long line of the great snow-peaks of the Cascades were there revealed,
the farthest a mere speck, yet distinctly discernible, two hundred miles distant.
One unaccustomed to the mountains would not believe it possible that such an
area could be caught within the vision from a single point.
It may be understood that the description of one of our great snowpeaks
is, in general terms, a description of all. With every one there are the same
42 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
azure skies, the same snow-caps, the same crevassed and glistening rivers of
ice, the same long ridges with their intervening grassy and flowery meads,
purling streams, and reflecting lakes. With the name of each there rises before
Mazama or Mountaineer, the remembrance of the camp of clouds or stars upon
the edge of snow-bank, the sound of the bugle at two o'clock in the morning
•of the great climb, the hastily swallowed breakfast of coffee and ham, while
climbers stand shivering around the flickering morning fire, the approaching
day with its banners of crimson behind the heights, the daubing of faces with
grease-paint and the putting on of goggles, amid shouts of laughter from each
at the grotesque and picturesque ugliness of all the others, then the hastily
grasped alpenstocks, the forming in line, and at about four o'clock, while the
first rays of the sun are gilding the summit, the word of command and the be-
ginning of the march.
Each great peak has its zones, so significant that each seems a world in
itself. There is first the zone of summer with its fir and cedar forests at the
base of the peak, from a thousand feet to twenty-five hundred above sea-level.
In the case of most of our great peaks this zone consists of long gentle slopes
and dense forests, with much undergrowth, though on the eastern sides there
are frequently wide-open spaces of grassy prairie. Then comes the zone of pine
forest and summer stra'wberry, with its fragrant air and long glades of grass
.and open aisles of columned trees, "God's first temples," pellucid streams bab-
bling over pebbles and white sands, and occasionally falling in cascades over
ledges of volcanic rock. This zone rises in terraces which attest the ancient
lava flow, at an increasing grade over the first, though at most points one might
still drive a carriage through the open pine forests. Then comes the third
^one, a zone of parks. The large pine trees now give way to the belts of sub-
alpine fir and mountain pine and larch, exquisite for beauty, enclosing the
parks and grouped here and there in clumps like those in some old baronial
estate of feudal times. This is the zone of rhododendron, shushula, phlox, and
painted brush. Through the open glades the ptarmigan and deer wander,
formerly unafraid of man, but now, alas, under the ban of civilization. The
•upward slope has now increased to twenty or twenty-five degrees, and to a
party of climbers a frequent rest and the quaffing of the ice-cold stream that
dashes through the woods aflford a happy feature of the ascent. At the upper
edge of this zone, at an elevation of probably seven thousand feet, beside some
dashing stream or some clear pool, fed from the snows above, is the place for
the camp. Such a camp! Oh, the beauty of such an unspoiled spot!
Tt is from such a camp at the upper edge of the paradise zone that a party
sets forth at the four o'clock hour to attain the highest. So the march on the
great day of a final climb carries us at once into a fourth zone. This is the
zone of avalanche and glacier, the zone of elemental fury and warfare, a zone
■of ever-steeping ascent, thirty degrees, a zone of almost winter cold at night,
but with such a dazzling brightness and fervor in the day as turns the snow-
banks to slush and sends the fountains tearing and cutting across the glaciers
and triturating the moraines. Vegetation has now almost ceased, though the
heather still drapes the ledges on the eastern or southern exposures, and occa-
.sionally one of the tenacious mountain pines upholds the banner of spring in
HISTORY GF YAKIMA VALLEY • 43
some sheltered nook. This wind-swept and stonn-lashed zone is also the zone
of the wild goats and mountain sheep. On the precipitous ridges and along
the narrow ledges at the margin of glaciers they can be seen bounding away at
the approach of the party, surefooted and swift at points where the nerve of the
best human climber might fail. This zone carries the climbers to ten or eleven
thousand feet of elevation on the highest peaks. And here is the place for the
Mountaineers and Mazamas to take the half-hour rest on our arduous march.
A sweet rest it is. We pick out some sheltered place on the eastern slope, and
stretch ourselves at full length on the warm rocks, while the icy wind from
the summit goes hurtling above us. And how good the chocolate and the
malted milk and the prunes and raisins of the scanty lunch taste, while we rest
and feel the might of elemental nature again fill our veins and lungs and hearts
But then comes a fifth zone, the last, the zone of the Arctic. This is the
zone of the snow-cap. The glaciers are now below. All life has ceased. The
grade has ever steepened, till now it is forty degrees or more. The snow is
hummocked and granulated. Here is where part of the climbers begin to stop.
Legs and lungs fail. Camp looks exceedingly good down there at the verge
of the forests. They feel as though they had lost nothing on the summit worth
going up for. A nausea, mountain sickness, attacks some. Nosebleed attacks
others. Things look serious. Icy mists sometimes begin to swirl around the
presumptuous climbers. Frost gathers on hair and mustache and eyebrows.
The unaccustomed or the less ambitious or weaker lose heart and bid the rest
go on, for they will turn toward a more summer-like clime. Generally about
half an ordinary party drop out at this beginning of the Arctic zone. But the
rest shout "Excelsior," take a firmer grasp of alpenstock, stamp feet more
vehemently into the snow, and with dogged perseverance move step by step up
the final height. Inch by inch, usually in the teeth of a biting gale, leaning for-
ward, and panting heavily, they force the upward way. And victory at last!
There comes a time when we are on the topmost pinnacle, and there is nothing
above us but the storms and sun. And then what elation! Nothing seems
quite to equal the pure delight of such a triumph of lungs and legs and heart
and will.
But the reader will not be content with a description of the existing phys-
ical features of this land. He will wish to know something of the processes by
which all this came to pass, something of its geological history. Part of that
geological record is obvious almost on the face of it. We have already spoken
of the curious alternations of level valleys and separating ridges, with the
gaps through which the rivers pass and by which one valley connects with
another. One can hardly view those features of Yakima topography without
framing the conception that each one of those level valleys was once covered
by water and that there was a series of great lakes where now the orchards and
alfalfa fields of the Yakima provide food for men and beasts. This conception
of the era of lakes calls to mind one of the finest of the many fine myths which
the Yakima and Klickitat Indians have passed on to their successors. This is
the story of the great beaver of Lake Keechelus. This story has been told in
various ways. Dr. G. B. Kuykendall of Pomeroy, formerly physician at Fort
Simcoe on the Indian Reservation, has narrated it in the history of the Pacific
44 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Northwest. A. J. Splawn gives it a place in his graphic and valuable book on
"Kamiakin, the Last Hero of the Yakimas." The author has heard it from
Frank Olney of Toppenish, one of the best authorities on all matters relating
to Indian life. Like most Indian myths this story of the beaver varies some-
what, but in substance is to the efifect that in the times of the Wateetash (ani-
mal people before the coming of men) there was a monstrous beaver, Wish-
poosh, in the lakes which are now at the head of the Yakima. At that time,
however, there was no river and the lakes were much larger than now. Wish-
poosh was so destructive that Speelyi, the Coyote god of the Klickitats and
Yakimas, determined to destroy him and attacked him with his wooden spear,
but only wounded him. In his mad fury Wishpoosh tore up the trees and living
creatures along the shore of the lake and finally tore out the bank of the lake
itself, letting the great floods of water down into what we now call the Kittitas
Valley, making of it a great lake. Not content with this the raging monster
tore a passage way through the Umptanum Gap, and the accumulated floods
passed on to fill the Selah and Wenas, but for a time were restrained by the
ridge at what is now Selah Gap. That, however, soon gave way and the larger
flats of the Ahtanum, and Moxee became in turn the reservoir of a new lake.
Union Gap (Pahotacute), or rather the Ahtanum ridge at that point, still held
back the waters for a time, but at last gave way before the furious onslaughts
of Wishpoosh. Then there was a big lake sure enough. For now the water
covered the whole area of the Simcoe, Toppenish and lower Yakima, clear
across where the Columbia now is and even far on toward Walla Walla. Some
versions of the story carry the big beaver through the Umatilla highlands or
Wallula Gateway and then through the Cascade Mountain to the ocean. Ac-
cording to Frank Olney, who is probably the best authority, Speelyi finally
overpowered Wishpoosh at the point where the Yakima now joins the Colum-
bia, and there cut up the monster and from his remains created the various
Indian tribes. The fragments of the head were thrown up toward the source
of the river, Speelyi declaring that the Indians there would become great in
power and intelligence and ultimately be white and rule the other tribes. The
legs and chest were thrown into the middle section with the declaration that
they would be great as runners and fighters but would be inferior to the upper
tribes. The refuse was cast down the river and from them were fashioned
the lower and weaker tribes. Meanwhile the lakes had disappeared, the river
had come into existence, the various gaps remained as shaped by Wishpoosh,
the vast level plains had become visible above the waters, — and the Yakima
Valley, as we know it, was an established fact. Chief Stwires (Rev. George
Waters), a Klickitat Indian well known to all old timers in Yakima, told the
author an interesting collateral story of the Yakima floods, to this effect. About
a thousand years ago the Columbia River was simply a small stream and the
Kittitas and Simcoe valleys were covered with water. One day a certain young
man of the Klickitat tribe got lost in the mountains and finally made his way
to the summit of Mount Adams (Pahtou). That was a feat rarely performed,
for the natives have always had superstitions about the snow-peaks. But this
young brave reached the summit and there he discovered a great lake on top.
At that time also an earthquake caused the "Tomatiowas Bridge" of the Colum-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 45
bia River to fall, the lake on Mount Adams broke loose and tore down the whole
east side of the mountain, causing the stupendous precipice now seen there, and
the Kittitas and Simcoe lakes were drained. As a result of this the Yakima
River came into existence, and the Columbia become the mighty river that it
now is.
Chief Stwires had these and similar stories from his mother. One curious
feature of the Simcoe Lake story as related by Stwires is to the effect that there
were whales in the lake. C. E. Rusk of Yakima told the author that he imag-
ined that the whale story might have developed from the fact that at points
near Kiona and Prosser in the lower valley mastodon bones have been found.
We are not exactly in the domain of science in this part of the chapter,
but it is worth remembering that the Indians, like all primitive people, lived
close to "nature's heart," were great observers, and underneath the fantastic
details of some of their stories had a general basis of an accurate conception
of the physical changes of the earth. All the indications point to the action of
water through alternating floods and lakes in the creation of the peculiar topog-
raphy of the country.
The geological history of the Yakima Valley, like that of other parts of this
new land, must necessarily wait for fuller research to give it anything like com-
pleteness. General outlines, however, have been given it from the investigations
of government and state geologists, from the engineers of the Reclamation
Service, and from the observations of prospectors, of whom there were many
in the early mining days when the search for the precious metals engrossed
the energies of most of the explorers. There have been a few individual stu-
dents of high scientific intelligence to whom we owe general news of the order
of evolution of this region.
The first real student of geology in the northwest was Prof. Thomas
Condon, for a number of years a Congregational clergyman at The Dalles,
and then for many years one of the faculty of the Oregon State University
at Eugene. Professor Condon published in 1902, a fascinating little book, "The
Two Islands," in which he sets forth certain general conclusions of great inter-
est in the history of the Northwest. The fundamental proposition on which
this book is based is that there were two islands as the oldest land in all this
region, the Siskiyou and the Shoshone. In the -book are given valuable details
about the fossil remains and the rock formations upon which the author bases
his conclusions. Another of his general expositions is that in the subsequent
gradual evolution of the continent there were three vast seas imprisoned by
the rising lands in the regions from the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean.
The southernmost of these was ultimately drained by the Colorado River. The
second was the Utah Basin, and it found no outlet,, but gradually disappeared
by evaporation, leaving Great Salt Lake of the present as an evidence of the
process. The third, much larger than either of the others, was enclosed by
gradual successive elevations of the Cascade Mountains to be drained in time
by the Columbia River. Professor Condon's conception of the agency of the
Cascade Mountains in the history of the region which includes the Yakima
may be found in the following excerpt from the "Two Islands:" "Thus far
our narrative has had to do with occurrences apparently local and apparently
46 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
disassociated from facts and events that shaped the history of the rest of the
world. Our story now needs to take on its relations to this wider circle of
changes, the geographical progress of other regions. ,
"The two islands in mid ocean and the muddy or sandy deposits along
their respective shore lines were worked by the same ocean, receiving into their
deposits the remains of the same sea life, and were affected alike by the heat
and pressure of their vast acaimulations of the wear and the wash of older
things. Nothing of all this tended to make these islands unlike, and so their
growth was treated as the growth of twin sisters. The divergence in their
records commenced with the growth of the Cascade barrier between them, and
of the early history of this and its special bearing on the development of the
Shoshone Island, careful note has been attempted.
"At a later period in its history, this barrier character took another form.
From a mere water barrier to a range of hills, and still later to a vast range of
mountains, increased elevation lifted it into an atmospheric agency quite as im-
portant as its previous marine one, for when it reached the altitude of a moun-
tain range it excluded the moist, warm current of the Pacific Ocean and thus
surrendered the interior to the dry, cold winds of the continent eastward.
"Yet another of these barrier functions remains to be ascribed to the Cas-
cade Range. Its uplift along the coast of Alaska made it a barrier to the flow
eastward of the Japan current of the ocean.
"The present extended plains from Alaska to Baffin's Bay would warrant
the conclusion that before the elevation of the Cascade barrier at Alaska, the
Japan current must have flowed over those stretches of low country on its way
northAvard.
"The effect of this, as previously noted, would be to sweep away all accumu-
lations of snow and ice in that region : in other words, would prevent accumu-
lations of snow and ice between our island of Shoshone and the Arctic Circle.
a condition of things which would be very effective in modifying the climate of
the region we are describing.
"Yet such an inflow of a vast tropical river from the ocean itself must
have existed till turned aside by the upfold of this Cascade barrier along the
coast of Alaska.
"To say that this great upfold of the earth kept on increasing in height and
breadth through the early and middle Tertiary times, would tend to obscure
the strong line of the history, for it was the force that lifted this Cascade dyke
into the Cascade range of hills, and these in turn into the Cascade range of
mountains. It was the epochs of these successive upfolds that marked off into
time periods the Eocene or early Tertiary, the Miocene or middle Tertiary, and
the Pliocene or latest Tertiar}-.
But there is still a wider view of its world relations than this one of the
Pacific slope; for while this Cascade barrier was making a geographical sepa-
ration between our two islands of the Pacific, there was an extension of the
Gulf of Mexico northward into what is now British America, covering much
of the region now occupied by the Rocky Mountains. The same crumpling
process that elevated the Cascade barrier by a like process of elevation, closed
this American Mediterranean to the ocean, and also added to the height and
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY ^r
breadth of the already begun upfold of the Rocky Mountains. This change was
closely followed by the conversion of the inclosed waters of the region from salt^
through brackish, to fresh waters.
"And yet a still wider relationship may be mentioned. Up to the time whea
the Cascade barrier was separating our Pacific Islands, western Europe, from>
the British Islands to the Black Sea, was covered by a deep ocean over whose
bed had been slowly deposited the cast-off calcareous shells of a Protozoan
animal, the Globigerina. This accumulation of life-remains, hundreds of feet
in thickness and extending over a length of six hundred miles, was brought to
a close by the elevation of the sea bed, its calcareous sediment to be known in
after times as the chalk beds of Europe.
"Now this shrinking and the resulting crumpling of the surface seen in
this light, becomes a world fact; its manifestation in the Cascade barrier, its
other manifestation along the line of the Rocky Mountains, and the still further
one in the elevation of the chalk beds of Europe, are but three links in the one
chain of force. It is this European link that gives its name to the epoch, the
Cretaceous (meaning chalk), and the close of this period, a time of great
change, a revolution in the geological history, marks the passing away of the
older forms of life and the introduction of the newer forms of both plants and
animals. To accomplish this result the great types of life at this time went
through rapid changes.
"The dominant forms of vertebrate life of the Cretaceous period of land
and sea, were reptilian, the dominant forms of the new period were mammalian.
"A like radical change occurred at this time among the plants, as the types
that mark the forests of today were not introduced till after the close of the
Cretaceous. In the light of these facts there is a striking fitness in the name
geologists have given the period that follows the Cretaceous. They call it the
Eocene — the dawn of the recent.
"When the violence that accompanied the Cretaceous revolution passed
away, quiet was restored and life, land life, took its new tendency on our Shos-
hone Island."
It is interesting to note in connection with Professor Condon's "Two
Islands" that Prof. Henry Landes of the University of Washington, state geol-
ogist, believes that there was a third island perhaps antedating the Siskiyou and
Shoshone and composing probably the oldest land in the Northwest. This was
the region of the Methow and Chelan and south\\»ard from them. In general
terms it may be said that the Methow and Chelan regions are of metamorphic
rock, granitic, porphyritic, and andesite, while south of these to the Sierras,
the Cascade Range and its various spurs are mainly of various forms of igneous
rock, lava, basalt and trachyte. The vast snow peaks beginning with Baker
(which ought to be Kulshan, Great White Watcher) and Shuksan near the
Canadian line, and including Glacier Peak, Stuart, Rainier (Takhoma), St.
Helens and Adams, with many lesser ones in the state of Washington, and an
equal number of similar ones in Oregon, are entirely volcanic, heaved up
through the original crust of the earth by stupendous volcanic and seismic
energy.
48 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
A general view of the geology of the Yakima was prepared by Miss Ruth
Johnson of the Yakima High School and published in one of the local papers.
As a valuable brief contribution to the subject we are incorporating this into
our work at this point. We derive this from a Yakima paper with this introduc-
tion:
GEOLOGY OF THE VAKIM.\ V.\LLEY.
(The following paper was prepared and read at a recent meeting of the
Yakima Association of Collegiate Alumnae, by Miss Ruth Johnson of the High
School faculty, and was so much enjoyed and the facts presented were deemed
so important that it was requested for publication. — Ed.)
In order to adequately explain the Geology of the Yakima Valley, it is
first necessary that a few general statements in regard to the geological history
of this country should be made. Passing over the ancient foundation of
Archean rock and skirting of subsequent sedimentation that was built around it
as well as intervening country that connects the more closely worked out sec-
tions to the eastward, we find ourselves interested in more truly western struc-
tures in British Columbia and Sierra Navadas. Showing records of as early
a time as the Paleozoic, the second well recognized era in the geologic scale of
time, there are rocks here that, according to George Otis Smith, "are the oldest
in the Northern Cascades," and he also records the fact that they show signs
of volcanic action.
In this we might trace the earliest proofs of the great stress of uplift that
was for the next two eras to keep the whole middle western edge of the con-
tinent oscillating, now above and now below water level.
Rocks of the Cretaceous period are quite definitely located and in the
sifting of Mr. Condon's "Two Islands" there remain the undisputed facts of
fossils of that period as having been located farther west than any of like age
up to that time. It is of interest that through Mr. Condon's efforts the earliest
explorations in search of fossil material were made, and such expeditions as
that of Yale under orders from Professor Marsh in 1876, the resulting speci-
mens of which, still comparatively unknown, are preserved in the recesses of
Peabody Museum at New Haven.
After the placing of the sediments which we now label as Cretaceous and
parallel in age with the great chalk foundations of other continents, there seems
to have come a great movement of lifting and folding which continued, studded
with granite intrusions and other signs of igneous activity until what may be
called the parent Cascade Mountains were lifted above the waters and erosion,
with all its wearing powers, began.
With the opening of the Tertiary period then we have a range of moun-
tains, not necessarily high, but rugged, in about ihe same position as the Cas-
cades of to-day, with a long trough-like estuary reaching in from the north
over what is now the Puget Sound country. This water lapped up much
farther than the present waters do, and it is a question whether or not the most
far reaching of these tongues of water reached the large bodies of water that
were to the east of the new raised ridge of mountains.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 49
These early Tertiary, or more properly speaking Eocene, waters are re-
sponsible for all the coal in our state and with the realization that coal bed foun-
dation demands long periods of shallow water growth coupled with rapid sedi-
mentation to seal away the treasures of the forests for our use we can readily
understand what must have been the story of that period.
Following this the Neocene basalt flows occurred, with such a wide spread-
ing field of action that some buttes north and east of Walla Walla were almost
covered and the Snake River that we know was forced to cut its way out and
through ten separate flows, the same flows of lava that may be readily seen
between Ellensburg and Yakima in the canon.
With the close of the lava flow came a deformation or slight tilting and
with it of course, erosion until a level plain was formed upon the face of which
rivers turned and twisted in an effort to empty their rapidly ponding waters into
the sea. This properly is said to conclude the Miocene period as well as the
career of the mountains already designated as the early Cascades.
The main division of Tertiary time, however, does not end until another
uplift furnishes the force to lift this level plain and with a combination of
mountain building forces make possible our present Cascade Range.
The erosion of this peneplain or level and elevated highland is even now
continuing and it is the broken stretches of its flat top that we can trace against
the blue sky line to the west.
Turning to a closer study of the Yakima Valley. The earliest rocks in this
section are to be found, according to Professor Saunders, in the Easton
schists and other strata as the Peshastin and Hawkins formations. These are
found in the mountainous western portion of the Yakima Basin, and are instru-
mental in causing a very nigged topography.
IN THE EOCENE PERIOD.
The mountains to the west were eroded rapidly and the resulting material
deposited as the Swauk formation between Ellensburg and Thorp and the
Naches formation showing a white streak in the hills north of Naches City.
Says W. von Winkel in Water Supply, Paper No. 339, U. S. G. S. "Upper
Yakima River Valley heads, now at 2458 feet, expose Pre-Eocene schists, slates,
serpentines, and volcanic rocks. Eocene sandstones, conglomerate, shales, and
basalts, and in places Neocene and later basalts.
Above Ellensburg the river crosses an exposure of Neocene basalt and
enters the later Tertiary sedimentary deposits known as Ellensburg formation
and in its lower course flows across basalt and sandstone.
Ill the course of this period these layers of sediment were uplifted and
eroded before the first of the long series of lava flows made its appearance.
This was a basic lava, called Teanaway basalt which in places attained a thick-
ness of more than 5,000 feet. There were fissures in the sandstone, and ande-
site and rhyolite were also a part of this flow.
Following this another period of weathering and erosion comes with its
destructive work, and well it is that geology takes small count of time as it is
actually measured in years else we could not so glibly follow these centuries of
(4)
50 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
erosion and the activity of leveling forces with the idea of sinking and subse-
quent sedimentation. This time about 3,000 to 3,500 feet of sandstone and
schists were deposited in the fresh water ponded here and the Roslyn coal is the
proof of a most abundant vegetation.
Just south of Yakima River are the Manastash beds, similar to Swauk
though probably younger than the coal beds. The era of the Eocene then closed
as far as the Yakima Valley was concerned with a break in the geologic record
due to uplift and erosion, and that break we call an unconformity. Following
this we have the Yakima basalt ranging in thickness from 200 to 2,500 feet
and we know that the sheet type of field is largely due to the fact that the great
floods were forced up through conduits in a manner best comparable to the
oozing of juice when a rhubarb pie is in process of baking, not to say running
over. It is generally conceded that the basalt came to surface through great
fissures of considerable linear extent rather than volcanic vents, for with
basalt's low melting point it would flow long distances before cooling. There
are no indications of true volcanoes on the Ellensburg quadrangle.
G. O. Smith speaks of ten separate flows ; and when one considers that be-
tween each flow enough time elapsed so that the lava cooled, rock weathered and
eroded enough to form a footing for the great trees the remains of which we
now find, we gain a little broader idea of geologic time. Russell in his analysis
of the lava gives the real reason for the soil's agricultural richness when he
says it is made up of 46 to 47 per cent Si and 11-22 per cent. Al with lime,
magnesia, potash and phosphoric acid.
About the middle of the Neocene period the basaltic flows ceased and the
area having sunk, doubtless because of the weight of the lava — a basin was
formed. Before we go further, however, it is besi to stop to realize that the
Columbia lava flows cover all of southern Idaho, eastern Oregon and extend
into California, covering nearly 250,000 square miles, in places 4,000 feet thick
and making the largest lava flow in the world.
In the northwestern part of the basin sedimentation was contemporary
with the lava flows and after this building of future soils had been carried on
to what we call the Ellensburg formation that reaches a total height of
1,569.5 feet north of Naches City. This series of layers shows such a mixture
of acidic, volcanic ash and sediment that a new volcanic activity to the west-
ward is definitely proved and that too of a more acidic type. This layer is the
one which Dall and Weaver correlate with the Massall beds of John Day in
Oregon and it is to them that we may look for proofs of the life that existed
at that time.
Early in the Pliocene times there was a gentle flexing and foUling in a gen-
eral N. W. and S. E. direction and these arches naturally aff'ected the drainage
that was later to work out the Columbia River basin drainage.
This material was again worked down to a peneplain with the rivers
showing every sign of age. These ridges were again uplifted this time with the
whole area raised and naturally the rivers were intrenched and had to cut their
way through as at Union and Selah gaps and the whole Yakima Canon.
Picture then the enormous amount of work which those streams had to do
before they could pursue their untrammeled wav to the sea, and also remember
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 51
that the Columbia itself was having to do the same work of cutting where the
Cascades were being humped up beneath its course to the ocean.
The most important event of the latter history of the valley, according to
Bull (U. S. G. S. No. 86) is the andesite eruption in the vicinity of the Tieton
Basin and the resulting lava flow down the Tieton and Naches. Tieton River
with a canyon of 1,000 to 3,000 feet of basalt was filled, and ponding was forced
in the Tieton Basin. Later streams of volcanic mud and lava encroached on
the broad bottom land of Cowiche and Naches and this largest stream of molten
material cooling as it traveled shows the change of viscosity in the slope of
si.xty feet to the mile that is still to be seen on the edge of Naches Heights.
The lava stream stopped at Painted Rocks two miles below where it came out
of the canyon and was about 300 feet high at the clilf which shows its end.
The Tieton and Cowiche were changed, similarly farther north. Local Cowiche
water was ponded 1,700 feet in depth. No rock of glacial origin shows on quad-
rangle but granite boulders deposited by ice in ponds. So we conclude the story
of our section, one that we may read as we run, and seeing what great changes
have come about in practically unmeasured periods of time, we may well look
with mingled feelings of awe and pride at the hills that most of us know and
love.
The article by Miss Johnson gives a very accurate general view in brief, but
some of our readers will doubtless desire more detailed and technical informa-
tion, and to satisfy that desire we are here incorporating extracts from the
thorough and voluminous report by George Otis Smith as given in the Mount
Stuart folio of the Geological Atlas of 1904. The first extract gives a general
description of the ;\Iount Stuart quadrangle.
GEOLOGY OF YAKIMA VALLEY, AS DESCRIBED BY GEORGE OTIS SMITH.
"Situation and extent. — The Mount Stuart quadrangle is bounded by the
meridians 120° 30' and 121° west longitude and the parallels 47° and
47° 30' north latitude. The area thus included is 812.4 square miles. The
quadrangle is situated nearly in the center of the state of Washington and
includes portions of Kittitas and Chelan counties.
"Relief.^The quadrangle lies on the eastern slope of the Cascade Moun-
tains, and the northern half of the area includes the Mount Stuart massif and
its foothills. Mount Stuart, the most prominent topographic feature of the
quadrangle, is the culminating peak of an important spur of the main Cascade
Range, the crest of the main range lying fifteen miles to the west. This sec-
ondary range Prof. I. C. Russell has termed the Wenatchee Mountains. Mount
Stuart rises to an elevation of 9,470 feet above sea level, and, with its deeply
carved spires and crags, more or less covered with snow throughout the sum-
mer, is the most striking feature in the varied scenery of the region. Its wild-
est and grandest scenery, however, lies hidden within its fastnesses.
"The southern face of Mount Stuart is a precipitous slope rising 5,000 feet
or more above Ingalls Creek. This wall can be scaled at several points, but by
only one route has the highest peak been successfully attacked by the mountain
climber. This route is along the right-hand side of a well-defined gulch which
52 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
debouches in a large alluvial cone opposite the mouth of Turnpike Creek. At
the head of this gulch begins the true climb westward along the arete with its
huge blocks of rock. The summit is about a thousand feet above, and, when
reached, the peak is found to be so acute that the greater part of the available
space is taken by the triangulation monument. Beiow, the northern and west-
em faces are so much more precipitous as readily to convince the observer that
there is only one approach to the summit.
"On the north side of Mount Stuart are broad and deep amphitheaters, in
which lie small glaciers and glacial lakes, draining northward into Icicle Creek.
The glaciers immediately below the main peak are mere remnants, often only
a few hundred yards in extent, yet as seen from the summit these exhibit the
characteristics possessed by larger ice streams; crevasses cross the surface and
indicate clearly the lines of flow in the lower portions of the glacier, while one
terminal moraine was observed. Neve fields connect these tiny glaciers, so
that they form a chain at the base of the cliff that so effectually protects them.
In the Twin Lakes amphitheater there is a much larger glacier, about two miles
in length. A Nunatak rising through this sheet of ice is a conspicuous fea-
ture, and the typically rounded surfaces of this glacial basin present strong
contrasts with the extremely rugged outlines of the higher parts of the range.
"Southward from Mount Stuart extend the lower peaks and ridges, many
of which are hardly less rugged than Mount Stnart itself. The valleys are
canyon-like in character, and dissection of the land surface has reached an
extreme degree of maturity. There is, however, some variety in the extent
to which erosion has been carried. Rocks of varying structure and hardness
have caused the details to differ somewhat, but ever}'where within this zone
the topography is bold. The divides are generally narrow, the crests of the
ridges being often so sharp as to be almost impassable. Below, the slopes are
steep, and high cliffs border many of the valleys. The larger streams in this
part of the quadrangle have rather broad valleys, although a striking feature is
the number of types that may be observed in a single valley. Within a few
miles a stream will pass from a broad basin down over a series of cascades,
then wind through beautiful intermontane meadows, only to again dash down
into a deep canyon. Such a succession is found in the valley of Negro Creek,
and similar alternations of level stretches and precipitous cascades characterize
almost every other stream. In general the gradient as well as the width of each
valley is largely determined by the character of the rock in which it has been cut.
The valley of Negro Creek furnishes a good example of this. The upper basin
and the lower broad and level portions of the valley are in serpentine and soft
sandstone and are separated by belts of hard, igneous rock over which the
stream cascades. The lower half of the valley is a narrow canyon cut in
igneous rock and hard slate.
"The southern half of the quadrangle includes a portion of the sloping
plateau which extends from the higher parts of the Cascades on the west to
the plain of the Columbia on the east. The gentle eastward slope of this plateau
can be seen in the sky line as one looks southward from the peaks near Mount
Stuart. The flat-topped ridge south of Yakima Valley, and Lookout and
Table mountains just to the east, are instantly recognized as topographic fea-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 5J
tures quite different in character from those already described. This southern
region is, hke the northern, deeply trenched with canyons, but the streams are
much farther apart, so that the divides between the drainage lines are broad and
level and the plateau character of the region is very apparent. Table Mountain
and the Manastash area afford the best examples of the plateau topography. The
nearly level plateau is so wanting in noticeable features as often to render it
difficult to recognize particular localities. The level character of the surface
generally continues to the very brink of the canyons, where the stream is sev-
eral hundred or even a thousand feet below.
"The valley of the upper Yakima forms the northern boundary of the
western portion of this plateau, but within this quadrangle the Yakima cuts
across the escarpment which marks the edge of the plateau. Thus, in the
southeast corner of the quadrangle, Kittitas Valley, as this portion of the valley
is called, fornis an extensive depression in the plateau country. In Kittitas
Valley, as well as in the upper valley of the Yakima, extensive terraces border
the river, a feature also prominent in the lower portion of Teanaway Valley.
Narrow terraces occur along the smaller streams which are tributary to the
Yakima, such as Swauk Creek and the three forks of the Teanaway.
"A somewhat uncommon topographic form which is very noticeable withiin
the Mount Stuart quadrangle is the landslide. While occurring in almost alH
parts of the quadrangle and seeming to be in a way independent of geologic
structure, the landslides are most abundant along the northern escarpment of
the plateau country, especially on Table and Lookout mountains. Here the
masses of rock which have separated from the mountain side are so extensive
as to render the resultant topography at the base of the cliffs very conspicuous.
The best example of this is at the western base of Lookout Mountain, where the
belt of landslide topography is a mile and a half wide. Three small lakes occur
here in the basins formed behind the immense blocks of rock that have slidl
down toward the valley. Such undrained basins are characteristic of topog-
raphy that has originated in this way, and may be found in many localities
within the Mount Stuart quadrangle. The landslide areas will probably aggre-
gate a score of square miles within this quadrangle, but it has not seemed best
to delineate such areas on the geologic map, since in spite of their presence it is
possible to map the correct distribution of the various underlying formations.
"Drainage. — The Mount Stuart quadrangle includes parts of two drainage
basins. The larger part of the quadrangle is tributary to Yakima River, while
nearly one-fourth is drained by streams flowing into Wenatchee River, a few
miles north of the northern edge of the quadrangle. Both of these rivers are
important tributaries of the Columbia.
"The Yakima here is a stream of considerable size, as it receives just west
of the western edge of the quadrangle the waters of Cle Elum River, the last
and largest of its three important headwater tributaries. The flow of the
Yakima at Ellensburg may be estimated from measurements taken during the
year 1898 at gauging stations in the vicinity of North Yakima. Using this
basis, the mean annual discharge is 2,500 second-feet; the maximum discharge
is about 15,000 second-feet, in February, and the minimum is less than 250-
second-feet, in October. The unusually high water of 1899 would give very
54 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
different results, but the discharge of 1898 is believed to be more nearly normal.
"Yakima River has considerable grade — about fifteen feet to the mile —
while the Teanaway has a grade of thirty to'forfy feet. Both rivers at flood cut
into their gravel banks at many points, and minor changes in their channels
thus ensue. Next to the area drained by the Teanaway, the basin of Swauk
Creek is the most important area, while Reeser, Taneum, Wilson, Naneum,
and Manastash creeks are streams draining the plateau region in the southern
half of the quadrangle. Naneum and Manastash creeks enter the Yakima south
of the limits of the Mount Stuart quadrangle."
The limits of this chapter forbid extensive quotations from the general
geologic history, but it will be interesting to see the introduction given by Mr.
Smith dealing with the general features and with the initial process.
"General Features. — It is believed that the Mount Stuart quadrangle is
exceptional for this province in the completeness with which the geologic record
is exhibited. It is thus a representative area for the geologic province of which
it is a part, and contains both tlie oldest and the youngest rocks thus far dis-
covered in the northern Cascades. The Mount Stuart massif and the lower
but rugged peaks encircling it constitute an area of the older or pre-Tertiary
rocks, while to the south and east are strata of Tertiary age, under which the
older formations are buried.
"This separation of the rocks of the Mount Stuart quadrangle into the
older, or pre-Tertiary, and the younger, or Tertiary, is at once natural and most
obvious. The difference between these two groups is apparent to any close
observer. The older rocks are varied in composition and kind, but all are more
or less altered, and the age of no formation among them is definitely deter-
mined. Above, fossil plants afford a basis for the exact age determination of
several formations. Among the formations of the pre-Tertiary age, intrusive
igneous rocks predominate — that is, the rocks are such as were formed at a
considerable depth below the surface of the earth, consolidating from bodies
of molten rock material which was forced up from below. On the other hand,
the Tertiary rocks are chiefly of the kind formed at the surface, sediments and
volcanic deposits. These are sandstones, for the most part, and shales, deposited
as sands and muds in large inland lakes, or lavas and beds of tuff erupted from
openings in the earth's crust.
"The difference in age between these two groups of rocks is considerable.
The older rocks had been long exposed to the influence of the atmosphere, and
been carved by streams into hills and valleys when the first deposits in the
Eocene waters were laid down, over an uneven surface composed of rocks
widely differing in character. This is what is meant when it is said that there
is at the base of the Eocene sandstone a marked unconformity, representing an
erosion interval. In the following portion of this descriptive text the geologic
history of the region will lie outlined and all of these formations, both pre-
Tertiary and Tertiary, will be described in detail.
PRE-TERTI.\RV PERIODS.
"Formation of the Oldest Rocks. — The oldest rocks in the quadrangle
are probably of Paleozoic Age. As will be shown more fully later, these rocks
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 55
are in large measure metamorphic — that is, they have been altered from their
original condition. Yet, sufficient remains of the original characters to show
that the schists, slates, and greenstones of the Easton, Peshastin and Hawkins
formations represent both sediments and products of volcanic activity. The
record furnished by these older rocks indicates that the conditions of sedimenta-
tion and of volcanism were remarkably similar to those prevailing at approxi-
mately the same time in the Sierra Nevada area and in British Columbia. Rocks
strikingly similar to those of the Mount Stuart area are also found in the Blue
Mountains of Oregon and in the Okanogan Valley, south of the international
boundary. The inference from these relations is that during a portion of
Paleozoic time the Pacific coast region from British Columbia to California con-
stituted a single geologic province. The absence of Mesozoic sediments in this
central Washington region suggests that it became a land area during Mesozoic
time. The existing of a thick mass of Cretaceous rocks in the northern Cas-
cades immediately south of the international boundary shows the extension
of the Cretaceous sea southward from British Columbia, while rocks of similar
age in the John Day Basin and Blue Mountains of Oregon mark the southern
limit of this central land area. Later formations conceal these older rocks over
large areas, but future geologic study may furnish data for a description of the
Paleozoic and Mesozoic geography, which can only be touched upon now.
"Igrneous Intrusions. — The next recognized chapter in the geologic history
is that of the injection of large masses of molten rock in these older rocks. The
schists, slates, and greenstones had been folded and uplifted from their orig-
inal positions when the intrusions of igneous rock began. The earlier of these
was that of the extremely basic magma which crystalized to form the peridotite,
now largely altered to serpentine. The masses of older rock were separated by
large bodies of this intrusive rock, often nearly a mile across. Smaller bodies
of the Peshastin formation were broken off and completely engulfed in the
molten magma, so that now many blocks of this foreign material are found
included in the serpentine.
"Striking as was this display of the power of earth forces, the next exhibi-
tion of igneous intrusion was on a larger scale. The ]\Iount Stuart batholith is
a mass of intrusive granitic rock measuring many square miles in area ; in fact,
the limits of its extent northward beyond the Mount Stuart quadrangle have
not yet been determined. The petrographtc characters of the rock, as well as
the metamorphic action the cooling mass exerted upon the adjacent rocks, favor
the view that this intrusion was essentially deep seated, although its exact
depth below the surface cannot be stated. The Mount Stuart granodiorite now
forms the core of the Wenatchee Mountains, and its intrusion may have initiated
the uplift of this minor range. Prior to this, however, as noted above, the
older rocks had been subjected to mountain-building forces, and. as will be shown
later, the Wenatchee Mountains owe their present elevation to movements
during Tertiary time.
"Erosion. — Nothing definite can be stated regarding the age of these ig-
neous intrusions. The nearest date that can be fixed is the beginning of the
Eocene, but at that time the granodiorite, serpentine and older rocks had suf-
fered a considerable amount of erosion. The cover under which the granitic
mass had consolidated had been removed and the rocks, of varying hardness,
56 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
had been carved so as to form a region of bold relief. This interval of time
during which atmospheric agencies accomplished so much is measured by the
great unconformity between the older rocks and the earliest of the Tertiary
sediments.
TERTIARY PERIOD — EOCENE EPOCH.
"Early Sedimentation. — Conditions favoring the deposition of the waste
from the eroded rock masses began early in the Eocene Epoch. The coarse
bowlders of granodiorite, serpentine and other rocks accumulated near their
present ledges and were successively covered with finer sediments deposited in
the rising waters of the Eocene lake. The rugged topography caused the coast
line to be extremely irregular, so that inclosed lagoons and narrow inlets
doubtless occurred in close proximity to bold headlands. Variety in the sedi-
ments resulted, and fine muds and coarse granite sands may have been laid
down contemporaneously in adjoining areas. The higher portions of the mass
of granitic rock appear to have been exposed to active weathering agencies,
since the larger part of the Swauk formation is composed of fresh arkose,
plainly derived from the Mount Stuart granodiorite.
"Basaltic Eruptions. — Elevation accompanied by a moderate amount of
flexing probably terminated the epoch of sedimentation. Erosion immediately
began its work and had truncated certain of the folds before the eruption of
large masses of basaltic lava and tuflf took place. The source of this volcanic
material was deep seated, the molten rock reaching the surface through hun-
dreds of vents. Cracks in the sandstone, serpentine, slate, and even the gran-
odiorite appear to have been taken advantage of by the extremely fluid magma,
which thus secured a passage upward to the surface. For the most part the lava
spread out in great sheets, while in certain localities the presence of steam in
the molten rock appears to have caused explosive eruptions, thick beds of basal-
tic tufif being intercalated with the lava sheets.
"Later Sedimentation. — The violent volcanism was succeeded by quiet
sedimentation in the waters which soon covered the basaltic rocks. The sands
and muds deposited in this later Eocene Epoch appear to have been better sorted
than the materials composing the earlier Eocene sediments. Vegetable matter,,
which was present in the earlier formation now became prominent, and during
the later part of the epoch, represented by the Roslyn formation, the conditions
of sedimentation were such as to allow the deposit of several beds of carbona-
ceous material, which now furnish workable seams of coal.
"Sedimentation during Eocene time appears to have taken place in basins
which were neither extensive nor permanent. The Swauk water body was
doubtless larger than the Roslyn, while the latter basin appears to have had a
position well toward the southern edge of the Swauk Basin. The Roslyn
waters, however, did not extend far to the south, since the Manastash forma-
tion, which is of late Eocene Age, is found to have its basal sediments resting
directly upon the pre-Tertiary schists. The Manastash Basin was thus south
of the Roslyn Basin, which was south of the basin in which the Swauk sedi-
ments were deposited. This southward migration of the lake basins in Eocene
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 57
time very probably had its origin in resistance offered by the Mount Stuart
massif to the mountain building movements which continued throughout the
Tertiary period. The deposition of the sands and muds, now indurated and
forming the rocks of the Manastash formation, closed the Eocene sedimentation,
as far as the record is known."
From the extensive section of Mr. Smith's report dealing with such forma-
tions we select the following as illustrating the general method of treatment and
as of special interest.
PRE-TERTIARY ROCKS.
"Succession. — While the absolute age has not been determined for any of
the pre-Tertiary formations, their relative age is determined by their geologic
relations, and they will be described in that order. The oldest formations in
this region are the Easton schist, the Peshastin slate, and the Hawkins volcanic
rocks. Of these, the first is a metamorphic rock, probably of sedimentary
origin; the others, while somewhat altered, are plainly sedimentary and vol-
canic respectively. The intrusive igneous rocks are the peridotite, now largely
altered to serpentine, and the Mount Stuart granodiorite.
EASTON SCHIST
"Areal Extent. — This formation occupies two small areas in the south-
western part of the quadrangle. The larger of the two includes a portion of the
ridge between Yakima River and Taneum Creek. Here the formation is a
quartz- mica-schist, a typical metamorphic rock. Though occupying only a few
square miles in the Mount Stuart quadrangle, this schist extends westward
into the Snoqualmie quadrangle, forming the southern wall of Yakima Valley
as far as Easton, from which town the formation takes its name. Southwest
of Cle Elum the Easton Schist extends southward from the edge of the valley
across the ridge, which rises 2,500 feet at this point above the valley, and down
across the forks of Taneum Creek. South of this point the schist is hidden
beneath later formations, but reappears several miles farther south on South
Fork of Manastash Creek.
"Description. — Where best exposed the Easton Schist is a silvery-gray
or green rock, with thin layers of quartzose material separated by micaceous
minerals — sericite and chlorite. The rock is extremely crumpled, and gashed
and seamed with quartz veins and stringers. Associated with this quartz-mica- ,
schist are other schists, more limited in their occurrence. These are amphi-
bolites — schists composed largely of green hornblende, which probably have been
derived from a dioritic or more basic igneous rock, dikes of which cut the rock
now metamorphosed into the quartz-mica-schist. Other associated schists have
epidote as a prominent constituent.
"Immediately west of the base of Cle Elum Point the schist shows an
apparent stratification and includes green and blue amphibole (glaucophane)
schists and a jaspery quartzite, both the glaucophane-schist and the quartzite
containing considerable magnetite. These rocks appear to be metamorphosed
sediments. Their occurrence close to the intrusive rock of Cle Elum Point sug-
gests a possible cause of the metamorphism.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
PESHASTIN FORMATION.
"Type Occurrence. — The typical exposure of this formation is along the
canyon of Peshastin Creek near the mouth of Negro Creek. The rock is gen-
erally a black slate, and a great thickness is exposed here. Cherty bands and
fine grit or conglomerate also occur, but only in relatively small amount.
"In the northwestern part of the quadrangle, between the headwaters of
North and Middle forks of Teanaway River, there is another area of the
Peshastin formation. There black chert is again found interbedded with the
slate, and lenses of light-gray limestone also occur. The thin bands of chert
are rather persistent, but the lenses of limestone rarely measure more than a
few yards in length. Argillaceous rocks other than the black slate occur in this
area. These are a red ferruginous slate and a yellowish sericitic rock, some-
what schistose.
"In the region between these two larger areas of the Peshastin formation
there are several smaller exposures of the slate and associated rocks. In some
cases these areas are too small to be represented.
" 'Nickel Ledge.' — One exceptional phase of the Peshastin formation and
its mode of occurrence should be mentioned. At a number of localities on the
headwaters of North Fork of the Teanaway, and on the tributaries of Peshas-
tin Creek, may be seen narrow belts, or even ledges only a few feet across, of
a bright-yellow or light-red rock. Such occurrences are locally known as the
'nickel ledge' or 'porphyry dike.' The universal characteristic of the rock is its
bright color, by which it can be recognized at considerable distance. The rock
is usually very hard, and its weathered surface is extremely rough or ragged.
These yellow or red 'ledges' occur within the peridotite or serpentine areas or
in the areas of Peshastin rocks near the contact with the serpentine. In the
latter case the 'ledge' is much less homogeneous and includes thin beds of slate
and conglomerate. In another locality where the 'ledge' occurs within the ser-
pentine area it is associated with a bed of chert. Examined microscopically
the rock exhibits no structures that afford any clue to its origin, and the only
constituents seen are carbonates and iron oxide. Chemically it is a siliceous
dolomitic rock.
"Two explanations of the origin of this 'nickel ledge' might be given. The
bands or ledges, which have a general east-west trend, may represent mineral-
ized zones in both the serpentine and the slate, or they may have been originally
calcareous beds or lenses belonging to the Peshastin fonnation, in part included
within the intrusive peridotite, in part situated along its contact, and thus sub-
ject to alteration by this magnesia-rich igneous rock. The latter hypothesis is
the one which is better supported by the relations observed. Limestone lenses
such as are called for by this hypothesis occur within the Peshastin areas,
though they are not known at the serpentine contact, where, however, the pecu-
liar magnesian rock does occur. At the western edge of the quadrangle, on the
ridge next south of Hawkins Mountain, a ledge of magnesian rock, is, however,
parallel with a bed of limestone within the slate series. In this area at least,
the relationships plainly point to the altered condition of the former rock being
directly dependent on the nearness to the serpentine, with which it is partly in
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 59
contact. The enrichment of the calcareous rock with magnesia may have oc-
curred at the time of the intrusion of the peridotite or later.
"The association of chert and slate with the Magnesian rock is believed to
justify the mapping of the latter as also belonging to the Peshastin formation.
The principal occurrences of this rock are on the northern edge of the western
area of the Peshastin formation and within the serpentine area in the upper
basins of Beverly, Fourth, Stafford, Cascade, Fall and Negro creeks. Other
outcrops, too small to be represented on the map, may be seen near Blewett and
near the junction of Ingalls and Peshastin creeks."
Inasmuch as a large part of the Yakima Valley is basaltic the part of Mr.
Smith's report dealing with the Yakima basalt will be of value and we give
here a portion of that part of the report.
YAKIMA BASALT.
"Areal Importance. — The Miocene basalt is one of the most extensive for-
mations of the quadrangle, and also perhaps the most conspicuous. Approxi-
mately one-fourth of the area is covered by the Yakima basalt, but this repre-
sents only the margin of the vast region characterized by this basalt and ex-
tending to the east and southeast even beyond the boundaries of the state. This
series of basalt lava flows of Miocene Age constitutes what is undoubtedly the
largest volcanic formation in America.
"The Yakima basalt is well exposed in an escarpment which extends from
near Cle Elum Point northward to the northern end of Table Mountain.
Through this black wall of rock Yakima River and Swauk Creek have cut their
gaps, so that opportunity is afforded for study of the series of lava flows. Sev-
eral sheets of basaltic lava can be distinguished, as they form benches on the
canyon sides. On the plateau-like areas covered by the basalt its presence is
commonly shown by the prevelance of angular fragments of the black, dense
rock.
"The lowermost sheet of basalt occurs at different elevations along the
escarpment and at other places where the lower contact of the Yakima basalt
can be seen. In many localities the relations along this contact are obscured
by the presence of landslides. Yet, whether the Yakima basalt rests on the
Swauk sandstone, the Teanaway basalt, the Roslyn formation, the INIanastash
sandstone, or the Easton schist, the contact is more or less irregular, and north
of Taneum Creek the contact of horizontal sheets of lava with the underlying
schist has a vertical range of 1,500 feet. These relations indicate the amount
of relief of the land surface on which the earlier flows of basalt came to rest.
The total thickness of the Yakima basalt within this area probably nowhere
much exceeds 2,000 feet, although it is known to be much thicker farther south.
In several localities along the northern escarpment 1,000 feet is an approximate
measure of the thickness of basalt.
"On the north side of Taneum Creek there are two small areas of basalt
which represent remnants of a thin local flow that was erupted after the begin-
ning of deposition of the Ellen.sburg sediments. In the area south of this quad-
rangle similar later flows interbedded with the upper Miocene sediments were
60 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
important enough to be separated from the main series and given the name
of Wenas basalt. Within the Mount Stuart quadrangle, hov/ever, this flow was
detected nowhere else.
"The structure of the Yakima basalt is very simple and is similar to that
of the Ellensburg formation, as described in a later paragraph. The occur-
rence of the small outcrop of basalt on Dry Creek is the result of a slight change
in the gentle dip of the flexed basalt and sandstone, which has enabled the
stream to cut through the sandstone.
"The most noticeable feature of the basalt is its columnar structure, by
which the sheets of black rock are converted into regular colonnades. Huge
prisms, several feet in diameter and scores of feet in length, stand out from the
canyon walls in a manner so characteristic of this rock that the term 'basaltic
structure' is often applied to it. These prismatic columns owe their origin to
the contraction of the cooling lava. The joint planes due to this shrinkage of
the rock were normal to the cooling surface, so that now the columnar parting
of the rock is vertical wherever the sheets remain in their original horizontal
position. Horizontal cracks divide the columns into shorter blocks, which
usually, however, fit so closely together as not to detract from the general effect
of these rows of columns.
"Petrographic Characters. — The Yakima basalt is a black rock, compact
and heavy. The weathered surface is often brownish in color and sometimes
gray, but universally the basalt as exposed along the ridges or in the river
canyons is dull and somber. Petrographically the Yakima basalt is a normal
feldspar-basalt containing basic plagioclase, augite, and olivine, in crystals or
rounded grains, with varying amounts of glassy base. Examined microscopi-
cally, the Yakima basalt is found to vary somewhat in the quantitative miner-
alogic composition as well as in texture. None of the minerals occur as mega-
scopic phenocrysts, but the labradorite crystals are more regularly developed
than either the augite or the olivine. The olivine is less abundant than the
light-brown augite, and also varies more in the amount present in different
specimens. Apatite and magnetite are accessory constituents, the latter often
occurring in delicate skeleton crystals. Some phases of the lava, especially in
the basal or surface portions of a flow, are very glassy and masses of pure
basalt glass can be found. The glass fragments seen on Table Mountain have a
rounded form and undoubtedly represent bombs ejected from a volcanic center.
As a whole the tuff beds and the scoriaceous lavas are less common than the
compact basalt.
"A specimen of this basalt from Cle Elum Ridge, about four miles south-
west of Cle Elum, was selected as representative of the different flows of the
Yakima basalt and it was analyzed by George Sleiger. This basalt is dark iron
gray in color, aphanitic, and has a rough fracture. The thin section shows its
texture to be fine grained, hypocrystalline, with intersertal glassy base. The most
abundant constituent is labradorite, slightly zonal. Next in importance is the
pale-brown augite, in roughly prismatic crystals, while the olivine occurs in
grains. The base is a brown glass containing magnetite in fine dust and skele-
ton crystals, as well as slender microlites of feldspar and augite. Slender
needles of apatite occur included in the feldspar. The analysis which follows
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 61
shows the Yakima basalt to be closely related chemically to the Teanaway
basalt. It is much less basic than typical basalt, and would be termed a vaalose
in the more exact quantitative classification."
From the standpoint of business interest the most valuable part of this re-
port is that dealing with the metals, with coal, and with building stone. We are
therefore making copious extracts here of this important part of the subject.
"The three principal gold-mining districts of central Washington are in-
cluded in the Mount Stuart quadrangle. The Peshastin placers were discov-
ered in 1860 and have been worked intermittently ever since. The Swauk placers
have been worked rather more steadily since their discovery in 1868. Gold-
bearing veins were first located in the Peshastin district in 1873, and in the
Swauk in 1881. The mineral veins of the Negro Creek district constitute a
■continuation of those in the Peshastin district.
"Mining in these districts has been conducted by small owners, and it is
impossible to secure any definite data regarding production. The output of
gold of Kittitas County for the years 1884 to 1895, as reported by the director
of the mint, aggregates $764,163. About $5,000 of silver was reported from
that county for the same period. The Peshastin district is now included in
Chelan County, but during this period it was a part of Kittitas County. The
jears 1892 and 1895 were seasons of maximum production, and the area prob-
ably would have steadily increased its output had it not been for the exodus of
miners to Alaska. In view of the activity in these districts in the years preced-
ing 1884, as well as the production of the last seven years, it seems that
$2,000,000 would be a conservative estimate of the total gold production. In
the last five years companies with larger capital have purchased the claims of
the small operators, and mining operations will now be conducted more eco-
nomically and probably with an increase in the gold production.
"Swauk District. — The Pleistocene gravels along Swauk Creek and many
of its tributaries are gold bearing. These alluvial gravels form the terraces,
which are especially prominent and extensive at the junctions of Swauk and
Williams creeks and of Boulder and Williams creeks. The gravel deposits are
from a few feet to seventy and eighty feet in thickness, and while red or yellow
at the surface, the gravel is blue below. The upper portions of the gravel also
are less easily worked, since induration of the gravel has followed the oxida-
tion of the cementing material.
"While fine gold is found throughout the gravel deposits at some locali-
ties, most of the gold occurs close to bed rock and in channels other than those
occupied by the present streams. The marked characteristic is coarseness.
Pieces several ounces in weight are common, while a number of nuggets weigh-
ing twenty ounces or more have been found, and one or more nuggets of about
fifty ounces have been reported, the largest nugget of the district having a
value of $1,100. These larger nuggets are usually well rounded, but on the
tributary streams wire and leaf gold is found. The gold is not pure, containing
considerable silver, which materially decreases its value.
"The bed rock, which belongs to the Swauk formation, is usually of a
nature to favor the collection of the gold. The inclined beds of hard shale form
natural 'riffles,' and from the narrow crevices in the shale the best nuggets are
62 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
often taken. The sandstone beds wear smooth, in which case the bed rock is
apt to be barren. The old channels, both of Swauk Creek and of its tributaries,
vary somewhat in position from the present course of the stream, but only
within definite limits. The old valleys and the present valleys are coincident,
but, within the wide-terraced valleys of the present, older channels may be
found, now on one side and now on the other. Thus, on Williams Creek and
the lower portion of Boulder Creek the old water-course has been found to
the south of the present channel of the stream, and is in other cases below the
bed of the creek. On Swauk Creek the deposits worked are above the level
of the stream, being essentially bench workings. Here hydraulic plants have
been employed, but elsewhere the practice has been to drift on bed rock. While
the endeavor is to follow the old channels, it is found that the 'pay streak' can
not be traced continuously. Ground that will yield forty dollars to the cubic
yard of gravel handled may lie next to ground that does not contain more than
fifty cents to the cubic yard. In the last few years the operations in the Swauk
Basin have been on a larger scale. Williams Creek has been dammed and
methods have been devised to handle the tailings and bowlders on the lower
courses of Swauk Creek, where the gradient of the valley is low.
"The source of the alluvial gold is readily seen to be the quartz veins known
to occur in the immediate vicinity. These will be discussed in a following para-
graph. The noticeable lack of rounding of much of the gold shows that it has
not been transported far, and indeed the limited area of the Swauk drainage
basin precludes any very distant source for the gold. It is only along the
Swauk within a few miles of Liberty and on Williams Creek and its tributaries
that gold has been found in paying quantities, and, as will be noted later, this
is appro.ximately the area in which the gold-quartz veins have been discovered.
From the outcrops of these ledges the gold and quartz have been detached and
washed down into the beds of the streams, where the heavier metal was soon
covered by the rounded bowlders and pebbles with which the channel became
filled. The conditions under which the gold was washed into the streams
probably differed little from those of to-day, except that the streams were then
filling up their valleys.
"Peshastin District. — The gravel deposits in the valley of the Peshastin
are less extensive than in the Swauk district. The alluvial filling of the canyon-
like valley of the upper half of Peshastin Creek is not so deep and does not show
the well-marked terraces so prominent in the Swauk Valley. The gravel ap-
pears to be gold bearing throughout, and the gold is rather uniform in distribu-
tion. The large.'^t nuggets are found on the irregular surface of the pre-Ter-
tiary slate which forms the bed rock. While the largest nuggets found in the
Peshastin placers are less than an ounce in weight, and therefore not comparable
with some of the Swauk gold, the Peshastin gold is fairly coarse and easily
saved. The gold is high grade and is worth about eighteen dollars an ounce.
The principal claims on the creek, below Blewett, are owned by the
Mohawk Mining Company, which is hydrauliking the gravels with water from
the upper Peshastin and from Negro Creek. Work which has been done on
Shaser Creek shows the gravels to be gold bearing, and here also the gold is
high grade. This fact is interesting, since, while the Shaser Creek drainage
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 63
basin is almost wholly in the same formation as that of the Swauk Basin, the
gold found in the two creeks is quite different, the Swauk gold containing a
considerable amount of silver.
"Stream gravels in other parts of the quadrangle, notably on North Fork
of Teanaway and on Stafford Creek, have been prospected, but no gold has
been found to warrant further work.
GOLD-QU.\RTZ VEINS.
"Peshastin District. — A few mines in the vicinity of Blewett have been
producers for about twenty-five years. The many changes of management and
methods of operating these properties, however, make it impossible at the pres-
ent time to determine accurately the character of the ore that has been mined
or to estimate even approximately the product during this period. Much of
the ore has been low grade, and the gold has been extracted by means of
arrastras, stamp mills, and a small cyanide plant, but not always with very suc-
cessful results. The small stamp mill first built in this district was the first
erected in the state of Washington. Another mill, with twenty stamps, has
lately been rebuilt under the Warrior General management.
"The best-known property in the district is the Culver group, comprising
the Culver, Bobtail and Humming Bird claims, and now known as the War-
rior General mine. This mine in its geologic relations and vein conditions is
typical of the mines of the district. The country rock is the altered peridotite
or serpentine, which exhibits the usual variations in color and structure. The
Warrior General and the other mines are located in a zone of sheared serpen-
tine, where the mineral-bearing solutions have found favorable conditions for
ore deposition. This mineral zone has a general eastward course, and extends
from east of Blewett across the Peshastin, up Culver Gulch, and across to the
valley of Negro Creek.
"The Warrior General vein has a trend of N. /CK to 80° E. and is very
irregular in width. In the walls the serpentine is often talc-like in appearance,
while the compact white quartz of the vein is sometimes banded with green
talcose material. Sulphides are present in the ore, but are not at all prom-
inent. The values are mostly in free gold, which is fine, although in some of
the richer quartz the flakes may be detected with the unaided eye.
"The workings in this mine consist of a number of tunnels driven at differ-
ent levels in the north wall of Culver Gulch. These follow the vein for different
distances, the vertical distance between the lowest tunnel (No. 9) and the
highest opening of importance (No. 5) being about 650 feet, and connections
have been made between most of the levels. The vein is approximately vertical,
although it has minor irregularities. The quartz is seven to eight feet in width
in some places, but pinches in others. In the upper tunnel. No. 5, the ore ap-
pears to be broken quartz of the same character as that in the lower tunnels,
occurring here much more irregularly, although the richest ore has been taken
from the upper workings. Some very rich ore bodies have been mined, but
they are small and their connections have not been traced. The most exten-
sive work has been done from the lowest tunnel, and the latest work here
64 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
shows that the serpentine, which is so much broken in many parts of this min-
eralized belt, is here more solid, a remarkably well-defined and regular wall
having been followed for over 300 feet.
"Other properties in the same zone as the Warrior General are the Pole-
pick, Peshastin, Fraction, Tiptop, Olden and Lucky Queen. Trese have all
produced ore which has been worked in the Blewett mill.
"An interesting feature in the geology of Culver Gulch is the probable
existence of a fault. On the north side of the gulch, at an elevation of about
3,750 feet, and near tunnel No. 5, a large basalt dike, twenty-five feet wide, is
very prominent. This dike has a trend of N. 26° E., but its continuation is not
seen on the south side of the gulch. Fifty feet lower on the south side of the
gulch, however, a similar dike occurs with a trend of N. 50^ E., but this in turn
can not be detected at the point where it ought to outcrop on the north side. If
these are parts of the same dike, as seems probable, there has been faulting.
Such a fault would cross the Culver vein at a low angle and probably between
tunnels 5 and 6. The broken character of the ore in the upper tunnel indicates
that movement has modified the vein at this point, and such movement may be
connected with this supposed fault. At the time of the examination of this
mine, connection had not been made between tunnels 5 and 6, and the relations
of the dike to the ore body could not be determined. If the dike interrupts the
vein, the mineralization is pre-Eocene in age ; while, on the other hand, if the
vein continues through the twenty-five feet of basalt, even although it may
vary in character with the change of the wall'rock, or if the fissure in which the
quartz has been deposited follows the plane of the fault which it is believed has
displaced the basalt dike, then the period of mineralization is not earlier than
late Eocene, and the Peshastin gold-quartz may be of the same age as the veins
of the Swauk district, a description of which is given below.
"Negro Creek District. — Although this region is a continuation of the
Peshastin mineralized zone, no claims in this district have become producing
mines. The region has been prospected for many years and a number of small
veins have been located, and some ore worked in a small mill and in arrastras.
The ore is mostly quartz with some calcite and sulphurets. The veins are irreg-
ular and the wall rock is generally serpentine, much of which is sheared and
jointed. Many of the locations have been on the red or yellow 'nickel ledges'
to which reference has been made; on a preceding page is an analysis of this
rock, which has been considered by many prospectors to be itself an indication of
ore.
"Swauk District. — The gold-quartz veins of the Swauk are very different
from those in the vicinity of Blewett. They are in part narrow fissure veins of
quartz with some calcite and talcose material, the wall rock being the sandstone
or shale of the Swauk formation, of Eocene Age, or in some cases a diabase
or basalt dike may fonn one wall. Quartz stringers running oflf from the vein
are common, and at one locality thin bands of quartz follow the bedding planes
of the sandstone. A peculiar type of vein material is locally termed 'bird's-eye'
quartz. This occurs in several mines, and may be described as a friction breccia
in which the angular fragments of black shale are inclosed in a matrix of quartz
and calcite. The quartz shows radial crv'stallization outward from the separated
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 65
fragments, and often open spaces remain into which the small crystals of quartz
jproject. The walls of such veins are sometimes sharply defined, but in other
cases many small veins of quartz traverse the shattered wall rock in every direc-
tion, so as to render it difficult to draw the limits of the vein itself. This tran-
iiition from the peculiar type of vein into the shattered rock shows the 'bird's-
eye' quartz to be due to brecciation along more or less well-defined zones, fol-
lowed by mineralization.
"The 'bird's-eye' quartz has its gold content very irregularly distributed.
The values are mostly in free gold, with a small amount of sulphurets present.
The gold occcurs in fine grains within the quartz or next to the included shale
fragments, and the approximate value of the ore may be readily found by
panning, while in many cases the gold may be seen on the surface of the quartz,
in the form of incrustations of leaf or wire gold; and in a specimen from the
Gold Leaf mine perfect octahedral crystals of gold lie upon the ends of the
-quartz crystals. The silicification sometimes extends into the country rock, and
some values are found there. The gold of the quartz veins, like that of the
gravels, is light colored and contains a considerable percentage of silver. In the
Little York this silver is reported as amounting to about 20 per cent.
"The quartz veins that have been opened in the upper basin of Williams
■Creek have a general northeast trend, being thus roughly parallel with the
basalt dikes. In the Cougar the hanging wall of the vein appears to be a
badly decomposed basalt dike, while the Gold Leaf has one vein wholly in sand-
stone and shale and another in a large diabase dike. The relation of the veins
to the dikes is therefore not constant, but it may be noted that the fractures
which have been filled by the vein material are usually approximately parallel
to the fractures in the vicinity which have been filled by the intrusion of basalt.
That there has been more than one period of fracturing, and that the period
of mineralization was not exactly contemporaneous with the time of igneous
intrusion, is shown by the occurrence of veins cutting the dikes themselves.
It is probable, however, that the two processes occurred within the same geo-
logic period and that the ore-bearing solutions derived their heat and possibly
their mineral content from the intrusive and eruptive basalt of the area.
"A number of quartz veins on Swauk, Williams, Boulder, and Baker
creeks are being prospected at the present time, and in view of the richness of
the alluvial gold which has been derived from the veins in this vicinity it would
seem that the prospecting is well warranted.
COPPER AND SILVER
"In the Negro Creek district both copper and silver occur with gold in the
veins already described. Many of the ores are essentially copper ores, but
whether the bodies are extensive enough to warrant their development has not
yet been determined. This copper belt extends westward along the headwaters
of North Fork of Teanaway River and of Ingalls Creek, but at only one local-
ity has any amount of ore been mined. The Grand View mine, situated on the
east side of Fourth Creek about three miles southeast of Mount Stuart, has
produced some native copper. The vein is in a zone of sheared serpentine,
(5)
66 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
and, as far as could be determined from an examination of the deserted work-
ings, the ore body is very irregular. With the native copper is the red oxide,
or cuprite, and the ore is reported to carry varying amounts of gold.
"There have been some prospectors at work recently in the vicinity of the
forks of Taneum Creek, about five miles south of Cle Elum, and copper sul-
phides are reported to have been found. The country rock here is the Easton
schist and is everywhere more or less seamed with quartz.
"As has been noted above, the gold of the Swauk district is argentiferous,
the percentage of silver varying with the locality. No other silver ores are
known to occur in the Mount Stuart quadrangle.
NICKEL AND QUICKSILVER
"Nickel is a metal frequently reported in the assays from the Negro Creek
district. Its presence in small amounts in the serpentine which is of such im-
portance in this area is shown by the analysis given, and this ren-
ders it probable that some nickel ores may be found. The peridotite and ser-
pentine resemble closely the peridotite at Riddles, Oregon, where deposits of
nickel ore occur. The green silicate of nickel, genthite, which is the ore at
Riddles, was not detected, however, at any place within the area of serpentine
in this quadrangle. The analysis of the 'nickel ledge' given on a preceding
page, shows a smaller percentage of nickel even than that contained in the ser-
pentine itself.
"Cinnabar has been found at a few points at the head of Middle Fork
of Teanaway River. In a prospect on the western edge of the quadrangle the
cinnabar occurs along a joint place in the altered rock of the Peshastin forma-
tion. The richness of the ore is evident, but the fact that such bands of cinna-
bar are very thin may prevent the deposit from being of economic importance.
"Roslyn Basin. — The most important mineral resource of Kittitas County
is coal. The Roslyn Basin is one of the most productive coal basins on the
Pacific Coast and it is included mostly within this quadrangle. The coal occurs
in the upper part of the Roslyn formation, and the extent of this productive por-
tion, together with the location of mines, is shown on the economic geology
map. The upper beds of the Roslyn formation have been eroded except in the
center of the basin, so that the coal field is limited to the immediate valley of
the Yakima between Ronald and Teanaway. The outcrop of the Roslyn coal
has been traced along the northern side of the basin, so that the outline here is
accurately determined. On the southern side, however, the deep grave! filling of
Yakima Valley conceals the rocks beneath, and this boundary of the basin as
mapped is based wholly upon data derived from observation of the structure
made elsewhere. As shown on the map, there are between ten and twelve square
miles of coal lands in the Mount Stuart quadrangle.
"The structure of the Roslyn Basin is simple. The dip of the coal beds
is low, ten degrees to twenty degrees, and no faults have been discovered in the
basin. Its axis pitches to the southeast, and since the fold is unsymmetrical.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY ■ 67
with low dips on its northern side, the axis of the basin is nearer the southern
edge. Thus the deepest portion of the shallow basin is probably near the line
of the Northern Pacific Railway at Cle Elum.
"The Roslyn seam as worked at Roslyn contains four feet six inches of
clean coal, while the seam worked at Cle Elum has a thickness of four feet two
inches. The correlation of the Cle Elum coal with the Roslyn seam has been
somewhat in question. The Cle Elum coal differs in character slightly from
that mined at Roslyn, and on this account chiefly it was thought that they are
separate seams and that the Cle Elum overlies all of the five coal beds cut by
the Roslyn shaft. There is evidence now, however, that the two coals belong
to the same seam. In the distance between the two mines the coal might be
expected to exhibit differences in character, especially in view of the fact that
east of the Cle Elum shaft the coal changes rapidly. Recently the outcrop of
the coal has been traced from the one mine to the other, thus definitely fixing
the correctness of the correlation. The coal is 640 feet beneath the surface at
the Roslyn shaft and 250 feet at the Cle Elum shaft, but there is so nearly the
same difference in elevation of the two shafts that the workings of the two
mines will ultimately connect at that level. At present the developments are
not sufficient to enable the exact form of the basin to be determined, but on the
map its area is approximately outlined. The 'Big Dirty' seam, nineteen feet in
thickness, occurs 200 feet above the Roslyn coal, and represents reserve supply,
although the quality of this coal is such as to render it practically valueless
under present conditions.
"The Roslyn coal is a coking bituminous coal, well adapted for steam rais-
ing and gas making. It is an excellent fuel for locomotives, and over one-half
of the product of this field is sold for railroad consumption. The cleanness of
this coal and its high percentage of lump make it well fitted for shipment.
Naval tests have shown that the Roslyn coal ignites quickly, combustion being
rapid and thorough, the coal swelling slightly on the surface of the fire. The
percentage of ash is moderate, and the clinkers formed do not cling to the grate
bars, except with forced draft. The amount of soot formed and the high tem-
perature in the uptake are the only objectionable features of this coal.
"Analyses of samples of coal collected in the Roslyn mine have been made
in the United States Geological Survey laboratory by Mr. George Steiger.
"These analyses indicate a remarkable uniformity throughout the large
mine, and a noteworthy and valuable character of the coal is its low content of
sulphur. Comparative boiler tests of Roslyn coal and of a high-grade Pennsyl-
vania bituminous coal have been made by the Northern Pacific Railway Com-
pany, and these show the former coal to have 90 per cent, of the efficiency of the
eastern coal under a stationary boiler, and 78 to 80 per cent, in locomotives of
the mogul and consolidation types, respectively. These figures indicate the value
of the coal for steam-raising purposes. It is extensively used for gas making
in Washington cities, yielding 4J cubic feet of 18-candlepower gas per pound of
coal. The bright, clean character of this coal and the small proportion of fine
coal make it well adapted for domestic use. The product of this field is largely
used by the northern transcontinental railroads, and its market includes, in
addition to the large cities of the state, San Francisco and Honolulu.
68 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
"The mines of the Northwestern Improvement Company at Roslyn and
, Cle Elum constitute the largest colliery in the state. The shaft at Cle Elum
has not been connected with the Roslyn shaft, four miles distant, and the inter-
vening ground represents the resen-e coal supply of these mines. The seam as
. worked measures over four feet in thickness, and the coal is shipped just as it
leaves the breasts. The daily capacity of this colliery with present equipment
. is estimated at 5,000 tons, and the management is now working with the pur-
^ pose of enlarging the plant to obtain a greater output. The output of the Mount
. Stuart quadrangle in 1902 was 1,240,935 tons.
"Coal has also been mined about two miles north of Cle Elum by the Ellens-
, burg Coal Company at a point near the outcrop. Here the coal was four feet
. thick and dips south, 10° east at an angle of 16°.
"L. S. Storrs, geologist for the Northwestern Improvement Company, has
..made analyses of the samples of the Roslyn coal from a series of openings ex-
tending from the Cle Elum mine through the Roslyn mine to the northwest-
. ern extremity of the basin. These analyses show the change in this seam from
a lignitic, non-coking coal to a fairly good coking coal. The order of the samples
js from the open part of the fold toward its more steeply inclined portion, be-
yond the edge of the Mount Stuart quadrangle, and the change in the coal may
be considered as an expression of the influence of the increasing dynamic action
as the Cascade Range is approached.
"Work has also been done on a coal prospect on the w-est escarpment of
Table Mountain where the Roslyn formation is represented by about forty feet
of clay with a seam of coal and bone. This bed dips 32° to the east. Similar
coal prospects are seen in the Roslyn formation at the head of First Creek.
Here massive sandstone occurs with the shale, but the coal seams are very
impure, and the surface displacements prevent any determination of their ex-
tent.
"The black shales in the Swauk formation have been prospected somewhat
for coal on Camas Creek, but witliout success. More extensive exploration
has been made in the Manastash formation, which contains some carbonaceous
beds. On Taneum Creek coal seams occur, but the work done here has not
, shown them to be of sufficient value to warrant further development. The
conditions are similar on Manastash Creek, where prospect tunnels have been
opened on the coal at several localities. The quality of the coal is very poor
and quite unlike that of the Roslyn coal. One of the larger seams thus pros-
pected is in close proximity to a large basaltic dike, which would cut oilf the
extension of the bed.
BUILDING STONE
"Building Stone. — The sandstone of the Swauk and Roslyn formations is
fairly well adapted for construction work. The Swauk sandstone is more
thoroughly indurated than the Roslyn sandstone, but the more massive beds
occur in localities which are not accessible. Sandstone from the productive
portion of the Roslyn formation has been used somewhat in building, but no
quarries have been opened. The tuffaceous sandstone of the Ellensburg forma-
tion has been used in buildings in Ellensburg, being obtained from a quarry a
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 69
few miles beyond the southeast corner of the Mount Stuart quadrangle. Usu-
ally this stone is too soft and friable for use as a building stone.
"Road Metal. — The alluvial gravels of the valleys have in many cases
favored the construction of good roads in this region. In some localities, "On
the other hand, the clay beds in the valley deposits have rendered the roads'
almost impassable through part of the year. Except in rare cases no attention-
has been given to the use of better material for road construction. The best-
of road metal, however, is close at hand in much of the area. The Yakima
basalt which forms the escarpment of the upper Yakima Valley and bounds
the western edge of Kittitas Valley is a rock which, owing to its hardness atnd
close texture, makes excellent material for this purpose. This basalt is too
high above the floor of the upper valley to be easily obtained, but the small areas
of Teanaway basalt which project through the alluvial gravels would furnish
similar material. The exposure of this rock at 'Deadmans Curve' on the railtoad
three miles south of Roslyn, is well situated for a supply of road metal for the'
country road between Cle Elum and Roslyn, a road which is more traveled than"
any other in the county. A place where this basalt may be obtained already pre-
pared for use is near the upper road on the south side of the valley about two"
and one-half miles southeast of Cle Elum. A pit has been opened in this crushe^d
basalt near the schoolhouse, and some of the rock seems to have been use'd on"
the road in the vicinity. This exceptional deposit of road material can be very
easily worked, and at comparatively small expense the roads of this vicinity
could be greatly improved.
"In Swauk Valley two sources of material are available for fitting the'
roads for heavy teaming. The basalt through which the road is cut beI6\Ar
Liberty is well adapted for road construction, when broken into small frag-
ments, while above Liberty dikes of similar basalt outcrop at several points'
by the roadside. '
"The Northern Pacific Railway Company has operated a rock crusher in
the canyon under Lookout Mountain. The cliffs above furnished a supply of
broken basalt which was converted into a high grade of ballast for the railroad."
While the foregoing extracts are from the Geologic Atlas of 1904, and
hence old, the general views given are of permanent accuracy and value.
Changes have occurred in details.
It may be added that the other folios dealing with the quadrangles adjoin-
ing the Mount Stuart quadrangle on the south give similar details with the
same minute and technical accuracy, the general history being similar. The
author is incorporating the part dealing with the upper Yakima as being a valu-
able illustration of the general nature of these reports. As it is manifestly im-
possible to go into further detail, the reader is referred to these Geologic Atlases
of the United States Government as the only complete body of references upon
this very interesting and important subject.
ARTESI.\N WATER
To the above data we desire to add a valuable contribution to the State
Geological Report for 1902, pertaining to the artesian supply of the Yakima
Valley, by C. A. Ruddy:
70 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
In this state the greatest progress in developing the artesian water supply
has been made in the Yakima Valley.
"The oldest rock which outcrops in this valley is the Columbia lava, of
Miocene Age. It forms part of the great lava field which covers south-
eastern Washington and Oregon and extends southward and eastward into
Idaho, Nevada and California. In Yakima County it is made up of a succes-
sion of flows varying in thickness from a few feet to a hundred or more, the
line of contact between the layers being usually very well marked. Some layers
show a marked difference in jointing from those above and below. The rock
is a very dark basalt, usually quite compact, but often more or less vesicular.
In many places beds of volcanic tuff are found between the basalt flows. Basalt,
in its molten state, is one of the least viscous of lavas. When in its liquid state
it is poured forth from a vent, and instead of building up a cone it spreads
far out as a nearly horizontal sheet. For this reason we find no volcanic cones
in the Columbia lava field. Each flow found its way to the surface through
a fissure which was afterwards covered up by succeeding flows. The interval
of time between successive flows in this region must have been in some cases
many years, and even centuries. Sufficient time elapsed for soil to form and
forests to grow thereon, before being overwhelmed by the next overflow. This
is shown by the presence of charred wood between the flows of lava.
"During the long ages in which the older rocks were becoming more
and more deeply submerged by the molten flood, there was little folding or tilting
of the rocks in this region. The Cascade Mountains were very much lower than
at present, especially in the southern part of the state. When the outflows
of basaltic lava had almost ceased, there came a change, so that the region now
forming the valley of the Yakima formed part of the bed of a great fresh-water
lake. This lake existed so long that sediments more than a thousand feet in
thickness were deposited on its bed. It was a time of great volcanic activity.
as shown by the character of the sediments. These are largely volcanic ash
and broken fragments of pumice. The eruptions which furnished this material
were largely of the explosive type, rather than the quiet outflows which char-
acterized the formation of the Columbia lava plain. Along the ancient shore
line conglomerate beds occur, made up of boulders of light-colored andesite
and other volcanic rocks. The great variations of the beds show that the
oscillations of the land were comparatively rapid and irregular. Sometimes
the water of the lake would recede and the streams would cut rapidly into their
soft sediments; then the waters would encroach again and new sediments
would be spread out, leveling oft" the old irregularities.
"At intervals throughout the period in which the lake sediments were
accumulating, there came belated outbreaks of basaltic lava which spread out
over the soft sediments. These were the last convulsive signs of life of those
great volcanic forces which were active throughout a great part of the Miocene
period, and which caused the formation of the Columbia lava fields, the greatest
l>ody of lava in the known world.
"After the lake was finally drained the greater part of the sediments were
carried away by erosion, but remnants still remain. They form the light-
colored sedimentary beds outcropping in places in the Yakima Valley and
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 71
about its borders. These are the rocks in which artesian water has been
found. They form what is known as the EUensburg formation, and are of
Miocene age, as shown by the fossil leaves preserved in them. The most
extensive outcrops are seen along the Natches River and at White Bluflfs on
the Columbia.
"At the close of the period just described, the region to the westward
was gradually uplifted so as to form the Cascade Mountains. At the same
time or later, a series of low east and west folds were formed between the
Columbia River and the Cascades, nearly at right angles to the axis of the
mountain range. The ridges are not due to faults, as formerly supposed;
they are all anticlines, while the valleys between them are synclines, and the
Naches River another. The crests of the ridges have been almost entirely
denuded of the EUensburg beds, so that only the basalt is left. One of these,
known as the Selah Ridge, borders the Yakima Valley on the north, and
another, the Yakima Ridge, borders it on the south. The Yakima River has
cut gaps through the ridges and crosses them at right angles. It evidently
had its course established before the folding began; then as the folds arose
slowly the river kept pace with them, cutting down its channel.
"At some period later than the Miocene, a great stream of lava came
flowing down from somewhere between the headwaters of the Naches and
Tieton rivers, covering the hills and obliterating the valleys. It reached as far
east as the mouth of the Cowiche Creek and then stopped. The rock is a very
dark andesite. It forms a conspicuous landmark, standing as bold cliffs on
the lower Tieton and at the junction of Cowiche Creek with the Naches River.
It is safe to say that nowhere on the surface of this lava can artesian water
be found. It stands at too high an elevation, and any water contained in the
beds below would find a readier outlet by means of springs along the base of
the cliffs where the andesite meets the underlying rocks.
"As shown by the geological map, the EUensburg beds extend westward
a mile or two beyond Tampico Postoffice and occupy practically all of the valley
below that point. The city of North Yakima stands at an elevation of about
1,067 feet above sea level. EUensburg beds have been traced twenty miles
west of that point to an elevation of 2,350 feet. On the hills north of Tampico
Postoffice they outcrop as beds of conglomerate, sandstone and volcanic ash,
dipping slightly to the eastward.
"North Yakima had a total precipitation in 1900 of 7.22 inches. To the
westward as the mountains are approached the precipitation increases. It
seems probable that most of the water which finds its way into the strata falls
upon the western border of the EUensburg beds, and gradually finds its way
down into the lower part of the valley.
"The two synclines occupied respectively by the Naches River and Ahtanum
Creek in their upper valleys gradually merge into one as they approach the
Yakima River. Where the Yakima has cut its way across the valley there is
only one syncline. On both the north and south sides, parallel to the longer
sides of the valley, the beds dip towards the valley at a steep angle. On the
eastern and western sides they dip more gradually. The valley is underlaid by
72 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Ellensburg beds to a depth of over a thousand feet, while along the elevated
edges it has all been eroded away, leaving the bare basalt ridges.
"A large part of the rain which falls on the ridges is absorbed by the
rocks as soon as it reaches the porous beds at the base of the hills. Along the
western border of the basin the tops of the hills are at such an elevation as
materially to increase the rainfall. Ahtanum Creek flows over the Ellensburg
beds for a number of miles, and from measurements made of its volume at
different places along its course, it is evident that a considerable part of it is
absorbed by the rocks.
"The part of the valley east of the Yakima River is known as the Moxee
Valley. It is here that nearly all of the artesian wells are located. There are
now more than thirty wells within an area of six square miles. The following
table, taken from the report of Air. George Otis Smith, on the Geology and
Water Resources of a Portion of Yakima County, Water Supply and Irriga-
tion Papers of the United States Geological Survey, No. 55, gives most of the
important information concerning these wells:
"It is estimated that the total area irrigated by these w^ells amounts to
about 1,650 acres. Some of them are said to be decreasing in volume, and
in some instances even to have ceased flowing altogether. This may be due
to caving of the wells due to improper construction. It is quite possible,
of course, that the basin may now be developed to its full capacity, so that
the drilling of more wells would not increase the total flow. If such were the
case, the water which would flow from new wells would simply decrease by that
much the amount which flowed from the other wells. Heretofore the wells
have been allowed to flow freely throughout the year, but at the last session
of the State Legislature a law was passed compelling owners of wells to keep
them closed from the first day of October in any year until the first day of
the following April. This does not prevent the use of water for stock or for
domestic purposes. The effect of this law will be salutary in preventing the
waste of water during the season when it is not necessary for irrigation, and
will greatly increase the capacity of the basin. The amount of land in this
part of the valley which can be brought under cultivation is limited only by
the supply of water.
"On the western side of the Yakima River the demand for artesian water
is not so urgent. A number of canals bring water from the Naches River, and
supply all the lower part of the valley. Other canals utilize the waters of
Ahtanum Creek. Up to the present time only one artesian well has been drilled
west of the Yakima. This is on the farm of Mr. George Wilson, in Wide
Hollow, and irrigates about fifty acres. It is important as showing the pres-
ence of artesian water in this part of the valley, so that the problem is simplified
for anyone who in the future wishes to sink a well in the same locality.
KITTITAS VALLEY
"In the Kittitas Valley, in which the city of Ellensburg is situated, the
same geological formations occur as in the Yakima Valley farther south. Its
basin-like structure, however, is not so clearly marked. The valley is underlaid
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY , 75
by the Ellensburg formation to an unknown depth. On every side of the valley
the enclosing hills are of basalt. The Yakima River flows through the valley
from northwest to southeast and escapes through a deep notch cut in the
enclosing ridge. A well was sunk in the valley a number of years ago, and is
said to have reached basalt at 700 feet. Water came up within forty feet of
the surface. Mr. Smith, in the report previously referred to, is of the opinion'
that the chances of obtaining artesian water are sufficiently favorable to justify
the drilling of another well." (Mr. Ruddy's report, while also outdated, pos-
sesses permanent value and hence we preserve it.)
For the sake of accuracy, it should be added that, since Mr. Ruddy's report
was made, artesian water has been discovered in Walla Walla of such copious
supply as to make it far exceed any other region in the Northwest for artesian'
water.
In connection with the artesian development special note should be made
of the fact that there is in the city of Yakima a flowing well which supplies a
natatorium operated by the Artesian Mineral Springs Company. This well is-
2,100 feet deep, flows 800,000 gallons per day, the water having a temperature:
of 78°. There are four flows, but all except one are shut off.
CHAPTER II
THE NATIVE RACES OF CENTRAL WASHINGTON
THE NATIVE RACES OF CENTRAL WASHINGTON — LITERATURE OF INDIAN LIFE
AN INDIAN DEMOSTHENES — CLAIMANTS SATISFIED; SCALP SAVED — INDIAN
MYTHOLOGY INDIAN NAMES INDIAN MYTHS STUDENTS OF INDIAN
MYTHS — ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE YAKIMA VALLEY.
Any history of any part of America would be incomplete without some
view of the aborigines. Such a view is necessary to insure accuracy of state-
ment and to gain philosophical perspectives of history. Such a view is required
also by justice to the natives themselves. The ever westward movement of
American settlement has been marked by trails of blood and fire. Warfare has
set its red stains upon nearly every region wrested from barbarism to civili-
zation. This has been in many cases due to flagrant wrong, greed, and lust
by the civilized man. It has been due also to savage cruelty by the barbarian.
Perhaps more than to wrong by either party, it has been due to that great,
unexplained and unexplainable tragedy of human history, the inability of
either party to comprehend the viewpoint of the other. And yet, most of all,
it has been due to that inevitable and remorseless evolution of all life by which
one race of plants, animals, and human beings progresses by the extermina-
tion of others. Perhaps the philosophical mind, while viewing with pity the
sufferings and with reprobation the crimes and irrational treatment forced upon
the natives by the civilized race, and while viewing with equal horror the
atrocities by which the losers in the inevitable struggle sought to maintain
themselves — if to such a philosophical mind comes the question who was to
blame for all this seemingly needless woe — must answer that the universe is
mainly to blame, and we have not yet reached the point to explain the universe.
We have found in the preceding chapter, and shall find in succeeding
chapters, frequent occasion to refer to events in connection with Indians. Our
aim in this chapter is rather to give an outline of locations of different tribes,
to sketch briefly some of their traits as illustrated in their myths and customs,
and to state the chief published sources of our knowledge in regard to those
myths and customs. The history of Indian wars, which also includes other
incidental matter about them, will be found in a later chapter.
LITERATURE OF INDIAN LIFE
The literature of Indian life is voluminous. Practically all the early
explorers from Lewis and Clark down devoted large space to the natives. The
pioneer settlers knew them individually, and some of them derived much matter
74
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 75
of general value which has been preserved in brief newspaper articles or handed
down in story and tradition. Out of this vast mass a few writers have formed
groups of topics which serve well for those generalizations with a birdseye
view like this must be content to take. Foremost among the writers dealing
with the subject in a large way is Hubert Howe Bancroft. Although his great
work on the history of the Pacific Coast has been severely and sometimes justly
censured, yet it must be granted that, as a vast compendium of matter dealing
with the subject, it is monumental and can be turned to with confidence in
the authenticity of its sources and in the general accuracy of its statements of
fact, even if not always in the breadth of its opinions or the reliability of its
judgments.
In Volume One, Chapter III, of Bancroft's "Native Races," there is a
generalized grouping of the Columbia native tribes which may well be accepted
as a study of ethnology, derived from many observations and records by those
early explorers most worthy of credence. These general outlines by the author
are supported by numerous citations from those authorities. The Columbians
occupied, according to Bancroft, all the vast region west of the Rocky Mountains
lying between the Hyperboreans on the north and the Californians on the
south. They are divided into certain families, and these families into nations,
and the nations into tribes. There is naturally much inter-tribal mingling, and
yet the national and even tribal peculiarities are preserved with remarkable
distinctness. Beginning on the northern coast region around Queen Charlotte
Island are the Haidahs. South of them on the coast comes the family of the
Nootkas, centered on Vancouver Island. Then comes the family of the Sound
Indians, and still further south, that of the Chinooks. Turning to the east
side of the Cascades, which more especially interests us, we find on the north
the Shushwap family, embracing all the inland tribes of British Columbia south
of latitude 52° 30'. This group includes the Okanogans, Kootenais, and others
of the border between British Columbia and northeastern Washington and
northern Idaho and northwestern Montana. Then comes the Salish family, in
which we find the Spokanes, Flatheads, Pend Oreilles, and Calispels, as far
south as the Palouse region. There we begin with the family of Sahaptins,
the one which particularly concerns us in the Yakima country. Numerous
citations in Bancroft's volume indicate that the early explorers and ethnologists
did not altogether agree on the subdivisions of this family. It would seem that
the groups have been somewhat arbitrarily made, yet there was evidently con-
siderable effort to employ scientific methods by study of affiliations in language,
customs, treaty relations, range, and other peculiarities. In general terms it
may be said that the different writers pretty nearly agree in finding some six
or eight nations, each divided into several tribes. These are the Nez Perces
or Chopunnish, the Yakimas, the Palouses, the Walla Wallas, the Cayuses,
the Umatillas, the \\'ascos, and the Klikitats. The tribes are variously grouped.
The modern spelling appears in the above list, but there is a bewildering variety
in the early books. This is especially true of Palouse and Walla Walla. The
former appears under the following forms : Palouse, Paloose, Palus, Peloose,
I'elouse, Pavilion, Pavion and Peluse. The word means "gooseberry," accord-
ing to Thomas Beall, of Lewiston. Walla Walla, which means, according to
76 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
"Old Bones," the Cayiise chief, the place where the four creeks meet, has the
following variants: Oualla Oulla (French), Walla Wallapum, Wollow
Wollah, Wallaolla, Wolla Walla, Wallawaltz, Walla Walle, Wallahwallah,
Wala-Wala, Wollahwollah. For Umatilla we find Umatallow, Utalla, Utilla,
Emmatilly, and Youmalallum. Cayuse has as variants, Cailloux, Kayuse,
Skyuse, Cajouse, Caagua, Kyoose, and Kyoots. Dr. Whitman's station, now
known as Waiilatpu, place of rye-grass, appears in sundry forms, as Weyeilat,
Willetpu, and Wieletpoo.
Yakima also has several variants, as Yakama, Yockooman, Yackiman,
Yakeema, Eyakemah, Yokimaw, Eyakama, Eyakema, and Ekama. Dr. Tolmie
records that the Sound Indians had the name Strobshaddat for the Yakima
River. Lewis and Clark got the name Tapteal. This name also has many
forms : Taptaal, Tapteet, Taptete, Tapetett, Tapatett, Taptul. According to
A. J. Splawn, this was the name of the original location of Prosser. Klickitat
has several spellings. The most varied spelling is for Naches. It is found
as Nachehese, Natchess, Nachese, Nahchees, Natchese, Natches, Natchez,
Nachtehis, and finally the present most reasonable and phonetic form, Naches,
In Coues' edition of the Lewis and Clark journals, page 973, we find the name
of a tributary of the Yakima given as Nocktock, which must be the Naches.
Mocksee, Moxee, Moksee, etc., are various forms of that pioneer location.
Selah has various forms also. In the same edition of Lewis and Clark just
given we find Selartar, which must be the Selah. The Wenatchee also has sundry
spellings, as Wenatsha, Wenatshapam, and others. Ahtanum is also Atinam,
Atahnum, Atanum, Athanam, etc.
The Sahaptin family seem to have been in general of the best grade of
Indians. Lewis and Qark found the Xez Perces a noble, dignified and honest
race, though they say that they were close and reserved in bargaining. Gen-
erally speaking, the inland Indians were far superior in physique and in mental
capacity to those of the Sound or the lower Columbia. Townsend, in his
"Narrative," goes so far as to say that the Nez Perces and Cayuses were almost
universally fine-looking, robust men. He compares one of the latter with the
Apollo Belvedere. Gairdner says that the Walla Wallas were generally power-
ful men, at least six feet high, and the Cayuses were still stouter and more
athletic. Others remarked that very handsome young girls were often seen
among the Walla Wallas. The Yakimas were generally tall, straight, fine-
looking people. The girls were, as often now, very handsome. With them
doubtless, as with other Indians, the drudgery of their lives and their early
child-bearing made them prematurely old, and they soon lost their beauty.
There seems to have been much variation among these natives as to per-
sonal habits and morality. The Nez Perces and Cayuses are almost always
described as clean, both of body and character. Palmer, in his Journal, says
that the Nez Perces were better clad than any others, the Cayuses well clothed,
Walla Wallas naked and half-starved. The last statement seetns not to corre-
spond with the observations of Lewis and Clark. Wilkes says that "at The
Dalles women go nearly naked, for they wear little else than what may be
termed a breech-cloth, of buckskin, which is black and filthy with dirt." About
the same seems to have been true of the Sokulks. But among the Tushepaws
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 77
and Nez Perces and Cayuses the men and women often wore long robes of
buffalo or elk skin, decorated with beads and sea-shells. Farnham speaks of
the Cayuses as the "Imperial tribe of Oregon, claiming jurisdiction over the
whole Columbia region."
The chief wealth of these tribes was in horses. Dr. Tolmie expressed
the supposition that horses had come from the southward at no very long time
prior to White discovery. It is well known that a prehistoric horse, the hip-
parion, not larger than a deer, existed in Oregon. Remains of that creature
have been found in the John Day Basin. But there is no evidence that there
was a native horse among the Indians of Oregon. Their "Cayuse horses," to
all indications, came from the horses of California, and they in turn were the
offspring of the horses brought to Mexico and southern California by the
Spanish conquerors. A. J. Splawn in "Kamiakin," gives a valuable discussion
of the origin of horses. At the time of the advent of the Whites, horses
existed in immense numbers all through the Columbia Valley. It was not
uncommon for a Yakima, Klickitat, Cayuse, or Nez Perce chief to have bands
of hundreds, even thousands. Canoes were a highly esteemed possession of
the Indians on the navigable rivers, and they had acquired marvellous skill in
handling them. The lower Columbia Indians spend so much time curled up
in canoes that they were distorted and inferior in physique to the "bunch-grass
Indians."
Like all barbarian people the Indians of the Columbia Valley were next
door to starvation a good part of the time. They gorged themselves when food
was plentiful, and thus were in distress when the bounty of Nature failed, for
there was no accumulated store, as under civilized conditions. Their food
consisted of deer, elk, and other game, in which the whole Cascade Mountain
country with the adjoining plains abounded, and of salmon and sturgeon,
which they obtained in the Columbia, Snake and Yakima rivers by spearing
and by ingenious bone hooks. They also obtained an abundance of vegetable
food from the camas and couse, which were common, and in fact still are, in
this region. Rather curiously, considering the fertility of central Washington,
there are very few wild berries, nuts or fruits. The huckleberry is practically
the only berry in large quantities, and wild cherries the only kind of wild fruit.
A wild currant grows vigorously on the lower Yakima and along the Columbia.
Such were the physical conditions, hastily sketched, of the natives of
central Washington. Their mental and moral characteristics may be derived
in a degree from the events narrated in the pages which follow. In their best
estate they were faithful, patient, hospitable, and generous. In their worst
estate, in which the Whites more usually found them, they were vindictive,
suspicious, cruel, and remorseless. Too many cases of the former type occurred
to justify any sweeping condemnation.
AN INDIAN DEMOSTHENES
One of the finest examples of Indian character in its better light is shown
by an event in this region narrated by Ross Cox in his "Adventures on the
Columbia River." The party of trappers of the North Western Fur Company,
78 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
of which Cox was one, was on its way from Astoria to "Ockinegan," as he
calls it — a company of sixty-four in eight canoes. When at a point in the
Columbia about equi-distant between the mouth of the "Wallah Wallah" and
that of the Lewis (Snake) a number of canoes filled with natives bore down
upon their squadron, apparently without hostile design. But within a few
minutes the Indians evinced the purpose of seizing the canoes of the Whites
and plundering them by violence. It was soon give-and-take, and arrows
began to fly. Pretty soon one of the company, McDonald, seeing an Indian
just at the point of letting fly an arrow at him, fired and killed the Indian.
A struggle ensued, but the Whites broke loose and defended themselves suffi-
ciently to reach an island, which must have been the one nearly opposite the
present Two Rivers, a few miles below the junction of the Snake and Columbia.
It was a gloomy prospect. Cox says that they had pretty nearly given up
hope of escaping and had written farewell notes, which they hoped might reach
their friends. It was a dark, gloomy night in November, with a drizzling rain.
During the night the party saw signal fires on the shore to the northwest,
followed by others to east and west. Soon after a large band of ravens passed
over, the fluttering of whose wings they could hear. This had a most depress-
ing efifect on the superstitious Canadians, and one of them declared that the
appearance of ravens at night was an infallible sign of approaching death.
Mr. Keith, one of the Scotchmen, seeing the gloomy state of their minds and
wishing to forestall the efifect, instantly joined the conversation, declaring that
while there was such a general fear of a night flight of ravens, yet it never
worked disaster unless the flight was accompanied by croaking, but that when
ravens passed over without croaking, they were a harbinger of good news.
Much relieved, the Canadians regained their nerve and shouted out, "you
are right, you are right! Courage! There is no danger!" The beleaguered
band on their dismal retreat waited for the dawn, making all preparations
for resistance to the death. Early in the morning the party crossed to the
north bank of the river, and there waited developments. A large force of
Indians soon appeared, well anned, and yet ready for a parley. The Whites
sent forward their interpreter, Michel, to indicate their willingness to parley.
A group of thirty or forty of the relatives of the dead Indians advanced, chant-
ing a death song, which, as they afterwards learned, was about as follows:
"Rest, brothers, rest! You will be avenged. The tears of your widows shall
cease to flow, when they behold the blood of your murderers; and your young
children shall leap and sing with joy, on seeing their scalps. Rest, brothers,
in peace ; we shall have blood."
The event which followed this lugubrious song cannot be better told than
by following the vivid narrative of Cox:
"They took up their position in the center, and the whole party then formed
themselves into an extended crescent. Among them were natives of the Chim-
napum, Yackaman, Sokulk, and Wallah Wallah tribes. Their language is
nearly the same ; but they are under separate chiefs, and in time of war always
unite against the Shoshone or Snake Indians, a powerful nation, who inhabit
the plains to the southward.
"From Chili to Athabasca, and from Nootka to Labrador, there is an inde-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 79
scribable coldness about an American savage that checks familiarity. He is a
stranger to our hopes, our fears, our joys, or our sorrows; his eyes are seldom
moistened by a tear, or his features relaxed by a smile; and whether he basks
beneath a vertical sun on the burning plains of the Amazonia, or freezes in
eternal winter on the ice-bound shores of the Arctic Ocean, the same piercing
black eyes, and stern immobility of countenance, equally set at naught the skill
of the physiognomist.
"On the present occasion, their painted skin, cut hair, and naked bodies,
imparted to their appearance a degree of ferocity from which we boded no
good result. They remained stationary for some time, and preserved a pro-
found silence.
"Messrs. Keith, Stewart, LaRocque, and the interpreter, at length advanced
about midway between the two parties unarmed, and demanded to speak with
them ; upon which two chiefs, accompanied by six of the mourners, proceeded
to join them. Mr. Keith offered them the calumet of peace, which they refused
to accept, in a manner at once cold and repulsive.
"Michel was thereupon ordered to tell them that, as we had always been
on good terms with them, we regretted much that the late unfortunate circum-
stance had occurred to disturb our friendly intercourse ; but that as we were
anxious to restore harmony, and to forget what had passed, we were now
willing to compensate the relations of the deceased for the loss they had sus-
tained.
"They inquired what kind of compensation was intended; and on being
informed that it consisted of two suits of chief's clothes, with blankets, tobacco
and ornaments for the women, etc., it was indignantly refused; and their spokes-
man stated that no discussion could be entered into until two white men (one
of whom should be the big red-headed chief) were delivered to them to be
sacrificed, according to their law, to the spirits of the departed warriors.
"Every eye turned on McDonald, who, on hearing the demand, grinned
horribly a ghastly smile ; and who, but for our interposition, would on the spot
have chastised the insolence of the speaker. The men were horrified, and fear
and trembling became visible in their countenance, until Mr. Keith, who had
observed those symptoms of terror, promptly restored their confidence, by tell-
ing them that such an ignominious demand should never be complied with.
"He then addressed the Indians in a calm, firm voice, and told them that
no consideration whatever should induce him to deliver a white man to their
vengeance ; that they had been the original aggressors, and in their unjustifiable
attempt to seize by force our property, the deceased had lost their lives ; that
he was willing to believe the attack was unpremeditated, and under that im-
pression he had made the offer of compensation. He assured them that he
preferred their friendship to their enmity; but that, if unfortunately they were
not actuated by the same feelings, that white men would not, however deeply
they might lament it, shrink from the contest. At the same time he reminded
them of our superiority in arms and ammunition; and that for every man be-
longing to our party who might fall, ten of their friends at least would suffer,^
and concluded by requesting them calmly to weigh and consider all these mat-
ters, and to bear in recollection that upon the result of their deliberation would
so HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
in a great measure depend whether white men would remain in their country
or quit it forever.
"The interpreter having repeated the above, a violent debate took place
among the principal natives. One party advised the demand for the two white
jnen to be withdrawn, and to ask in their place a greater quantity of goods and
ammunition ; while the other, which was by far the mo,st numerous, and to
-which all the relatives of the deceased belonged, opposed all compromise, unac-
companied by the delivery of the victims.
"The arguments and threats of the latter gradually thinned the ranks of
the more moderate ; and Michel told Mr. Keith that he was afraid an accom-
modation was impossible. Orders were thereupon issued to prepare for action,
and the men were told, when they received from Mr. Keith the signal, to be
■certain that each shot should tell.
"In the meantime a number of the natives had withdrawn some distance
from the scene of deliberation, and from their fierce and threatening looks,
joined to occasional whispers, we momentarily expected they would commence
an attack.
"A few of their speakers still lingered, anxious for peace ; but their
feeble efiforts were unavailing when opposed to the more powerful influence of
the hostile party, who repeatedly called on them to retire, and allow the white
man to proceed on their journey as well as they could. All but two chiefs and
an elderly man, who had taken an active part in the debate, obeyed the call,
and they remained for some time apparently undecided what course to adopt.
"From this group our eyes glanced to an extended line of the enemy who
-were forming behind them ; and from their motions it became evident that their
intention was to outflank us. We therefore changed our position, and formed
our men into single files, each man about three feet from his comrade. The
friendly natives began to fall back slowly towards their companions, most of
whom had already concealed themselves behind large stones, tufts of wormwood
and furze bushes, from which they could have taken a more deadly aim; and
Messrs. Keith and Stewart, who had now abandoned all hopes of an amicable
termination, called for their arms.
"An awful pause ensued, when our attention was arrested by the loud
tramping of horses, and immediately after twelve mounted warriors dashed into
the space between the two parties, where they halted and dismounted. They
were headed by a young chief, of fine figure, who instantly ran up to Mr. Keith,
to whom he presented his hand in the most friendly manner, which example
-was followed by his companions. He then commanded our enemies to quit
their places of concealment, and to appear before him. His orders were
promptly obeyed; and having made himself acquainted with the circumstances
that led to the deaths of the two Indians, and our efforts towards affecting a
reconciliation, he addressed them in a speech of considerable length, of which
the following is a brief sketch :
"'Friends and relations! Three snows only have passed over our heads
since we were a poor miserable people. Our enemies, the Shoshones, during
the summer stole our horses, by which we were prevented from hunting, and
drove us from the banks of the river, so that we could not get fish. In winter
HUMISHUMA, OR MORNING DOV
Her deerskin rol.c. .liToratcl with heads, elk teeth
one thousand dolla
A WOMAN OF THE OKANOGAN TRIBE
1 grizzly-bear claws, is worth ovi
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 81
they burned our lodges by night; they killed our relations; they treated our
wives and daughters like dogs, and left us either to die from cold or starvation,
or become their slaves.
" 'They were numerous and powerful ; we were few, and weak. Our
hearts were as the hearts of little children; we could not fight like warriors,
and were driven like deer about the plains. When the thunders rolled and the
rains poured, we had no spot in which we could seek shelter; no place, save
rocks, whereon we could lay our heads. Is such the case today? No, my
relations! It is not. We have driven the Shoshones from our hunting-
grounds, on which they dare not now appear, and have regained possession of
the lands of our fathers, in which they and their fathers' fathers lie buried. We
have horses and provisions in abundance, and can sleep unmolested with our
wives and our children, without dreading the midnight attacks of our enemies.
Our hearts are great within us, and we are nozv a nation!
" 'Who, then, my friends, have produced this change ? The white men.
In exchange for our horses and for our furs, they gave us guns and ammuni-
tion; then we became strong; we killed many of our enemies, and forced them
to fly from our lands. And are we to treat those who have been the cause of
this happy change with ingratitude? Never! Never! The white people have
never robbed us; and, why should we attempt to rob them? It was bad, very
bad! — and they were right in killing the robbers!' Here symptoms of im-
patience and dissatisfaction became manifest among a group consisting chiefly
of the relations of the deceased ; on observing which, he continued in a loud
tone: 'Yes! I say they acted right in killing the robbers; and who among you
will dare to contradict mef
" 'You all know well my father was killed by the enemy, when you all de-
serted him like cowards ; and, while the Great Master of Life spares me, no
hostile foot shall again be set on our lands. I know you all ; and I know that
those who are afraid of their bodies in battle are thieves when they are out
of it; but the warrior of the strong arm and the great heart will never rob a
friend.' After a short pause, he resumed : 'My friends, the white men are
brave and belong to a great nation. They are many moons crossing the great
lake in coming from their own country to serve us. If you were foolish enough
to attack them, they would kill a great many of you ; but suppose you should
succeed in destroying all that are now present, what would be the consequence?
A greater number would come next year to revenge the death of their relations,
and they would annihilate our tribe ; or should not that happen, their friends at
home, on hearing of their deaths, would say we were a bad and wicked people,
and men would never more come among us. We should then be reduced to
our former state of misery and persecution; our ammunition would be quickly
expended ; our guns would become useless, and we should again be driven from
our lands, and the lands of our fathers, to wander like deer and wolves in the
midst of our woods and plains. I therefore say the white men must not be
injured! They have oiYered you compensation for the loss of your friends;
take it;, but, if you should refuse, I tell you to your faces that I will join them
with my own band of warriors; and should one white man fall by the arrow
of an Indian, that Indian, if he were mv brother, with all his family, shall be-
(6)
82 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
come victims to my vengeance.' Then raising his voice, he called out, 'Let the
Wallah Wallahs, and all who love me, and are fond of the white men, come
forth and smoke the pipe of peace !' Upwards of one hundred of our late adver-
saries obeyed the call, and separated themselves from their allies. The
harangue of the youthful chieftain silenced all opposition. The above is but a
faint outline of the arguments he made use of, for he spoke upwards of two
hours; and Michel confessed himself unable to translate a great portion of
his language, particularly when he soared into the wild flights of metaphor, so
common among Indians. His delivery was generally bold, graceful and ener-
getic. Our admiration at the time knew no bounds ; and the orators of Greece
or Rome when compared with him, dwindled in our estimation into insignifi-
cance.
CLAIMANTS SATISFIED: SCALP SAVED
"Through this chief's mediation, the various claimants were in a short time
fully satisfied, without the flaming scalp of our Highland hero ; after which a
circle was formed by our people and the Indians indiscrimately : the white and
red chiefs occupied the center, and our return to friendship was ratified by each
individual in rotation taking an amicable whiff from the peace-cementing calu-
met.
"The chieftain whose timely arrival had saved us from impending destruc-
tion was called 'Morning Star.' His age did not exceed twenty-five years. His
father had been a chief of great bravery and influence, and had been killed in
battle by the Shoshones a few years before. He was succeeded by Morning
Star, who, notwithstanding his youth, had performed prodigies of valor. Nine-
teen scalps decorated the neck of his war horse, the owners of which had been
all killed in battle by himself to appease the spirit of his deceased father. He
wished to increase the number of his victims to twenty; but the terror inspired
by his name, joined to the superiority which his tribe derived by the use of fire-
arms, prevented him from making up the desired complement by banishing the
enemy from the banks of the Columbia.
"His handsome features, eagle glance, noble bearing, and majestic person,
stamped him one of nature's own aristocracy ; while his bravery in the field,
joined to his wisdom in their councils, commanded alike the involuntarj- homage
of the young, and the respect of the old.
"We gave the man who had been wounded in the shoulder a chief's coat ;
and to the relations of the men who were killed we gave two coats, two blan-
kets, two fathoms of cloth, two spears, forty bullets and powder, with a quan-
tity of trinkets, and two small kettles for their widows. We also distributed
nearly half a bale of tobacco among all present, and our youthful deliverer was
presented by Mr. Keith with a handsome fowling piece, and some other valuable
articles.
"Four men were then ordered to each canoe, and they proceeded on with
the poles; while the remainder, with the passengers, followed by land. We
were mixed pell-mell with the natives for several miles ; the ground was covered
with large stones, small willows, and prickly-pears; and had they been inclined
to break the solemn compact into which they had entered, they could have
destroyed us with the utmost facility.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 83
"At dusk we bade farewell to the friendly chieftain and his companions,
and crossed to the south side, where we encamped, a few miles above Lewis
River, and spent the night in tranquillity.
"It may be imagined by some that the part we acted in the foregoing
transaction betrayed too great an anxiety for self-preservation ; but when it is
recollected that we were several hundred miles from any assistance, with a deep
and rapid river to ascend by the tedious and laborious process of poling, and
that the desultory Cossack mode of fighting in use among the Indians, par-
ticularly the horsemen, would have cut us ofif piecemeal ere we had advanced
three days, it will be seen that, under the circumstances, we could not have
acted otherwise."
And now we must turn to another phase of Indian life and character which
is most worthy of record, and one in which more than anywhere else they show
some of those "touches of nature which make the whole world kin." This is
that phase exhibited in myths and superstitions. Here we shall find, as almost
nowhere else, that Indians are, after all, very much like other people. In this
portion of this chapter the author is incorporating portions of articles written
by himself for the "American Antiquarian."
INDIAN MYTHOLOGY
Like all primitive men, the Oregon Indians have an extensive mythology.
With childlike interest in the stars and moon and sun and fire and water and
forests, as well as plants and animal life and their own natures, they have
sought out and passed on a wealth of legend and fancy which in its best features
is worthy of a place with the exquisite creations of Norse and Hellenic fancy,
even with much of the crude and grotesque. Yet it is not easy to secure these
legends just as the Indians tell them. In the first place few of the early ex-
plorers knew how or cared to draw out the ideas of the first uncontaminated
Indians. The early settlers generally had a stupid tolerance in dealing with
Indians that made them withhold all expression of their own ideas. Later the
missionaries generally inclined to give them the impression that their "heathen"
legends and ideas were obstacles to their "salvation," and .should be extirpated
from their minds. Still further the few that did really get upon a sympathetic
footing with them and draw out some of their myths, were likely to get them in
fragments and piece them out with Bible stories or other civilized conceptions,
and thus the native stories have become adulterated. It is difficult to get the
Indians to talk freely, even with those whom they like and trust. Educated
Indians seem to be ashamed of their native lore, and will generally avoid talk-
ing about it with whites at all, unless under exceptional conditions. Christian-
ized Indians seem to consider the repetition of their old myths a relapse into
heathenism, and hence will parry efforts to draw them out. In general, even
when civilized, Indians are proud, reserved, suspicious, and on their guard.
And with the primal Indians few can make much headway. The investigator
must start in indirectly, not manifesting any eagerness, and simply suggest as if
by accident some peculiar appearance or incident in sky or trees or water, and
let the Indian move on in his own way to empty his own mind, never suspecting
84 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
any effort by his listener to gather up and tell again his story. And even under
the most favoring conditions, one may think he is getting along famously, when
suddenly the Indian will pause, glance furtively at the listener, give a moody
chuckle, relapse into stony and apathetic silence — that is the end of the tale.
Our stories have been derived mainly from the reports of those who have
lived much among the Indians, and who have been able to embrace the rare
occasions when, without self-consciousness or even much thought of outsiders,
the natives could speak out freely. There is usually no very close way of judg-
ing of the accuracy of observation or correctness of report of these investiga-
tors, except as their statements are corroborated by others. These stories
sometimes conflict, different tribes having quite different versions of certain
stories. Then again the Indians have a peculiar habit of "continued stories,"
by which at the teepee fire one will take up some well known tale and add to it
and so make a new story of it, or at least a new conclusion. As with the min-
strels and minnesingers of feudal Europe at the tournaments, the best fellow
is the one who tells the most thrilling tale.
INDIAN NAMES
One confusing condition that often springs up with Indian names and stor-
ies is that some Indians use a word generically and others use the same word
specifically. For instance, the native name for Mount Adams, commonly given
as "Pahtou," and Mount Rainier or Tacoma, better spelled "Takhoma," as
sounded by the Indians, really means any high mountain. A Wasco Indian once
told the author that his tribe called Mount Hood, "Pahtou," meaning the big
mountain, but that the Indians on the other side of the Columbia River applied
the same name to Adams. A very intelligent Puyallup Indian says that the
name of the "Great White Mountain" was "Takhoma," with accent and pro-
longed sound on the second syllable, but that any snow peak was the same, w^ith
the second syllable not so prolonged, according to height or distance of the peak.
Mount St. Helens was also "Takhoma," but with the "ho" not so prolonged.
But among -some other Indians we find Mount St. Helens known as "Lawaila-
clough," and with some Mount Hood is known as "Yetsl." Still other names are
"Loowit" for St. Helens and "Wiyeast" for Hood. Adams seems to be known
to some as "Klickitat." "Koolshan" for Baker, meaning the "Great White
Watcher," is one of the most attractive of Indian names and should be pre-
served. There is "Shuksan" or "The place of the Storm Wind," the only one
of the Northwestern peaks which has preserved its Indian name. In reference
to "Takhoma," a Puyallup woman told the writer that among her people the
name meant the "Breast that Feeds," or "the Breast of the Milk White Waters,"
referring to the glaciers or the white streams that issue from them. On the
other hand, Winthrop in "Canoe and Saddle," states that the Indians applied
the name "Takhoma" to any high snow peak. Mr. Edwin Eells of Tacoma has
written that he derived from Rev. Father Hylebos of the same city the state-
ment that the name "Takhoma" was compounded of "Tah" and "Koma," and
that among certain Indians the word "Koma" meant and snow peak, while
"Tah" is a superlative. Hence, "Tahkoma" means simply "the great peak."
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 85
We find something of the same inconsistencies in regard to the Indian
names of rivers. Our maps abound with supposed Indian names of rivers and
yet an educated Nez Perce Indian named Luke, living at Kamiah, Idaho, told
the author that the Indians, at least of that region, had no names of rivers, but
only of localities. He said that "Kooskooskie," which Lewis and Clark under-
stood to be the name of what we now call the Clearwater, was in reality a repe-
tition of "Koos," their word for water, and they meant merely to say that it waa
a strong water. On the other hand we find many students of Indian languages
who have understood that there were names for the large rivers, even for the
Columbia. In the beautiful little book by B. H. Barrows, published and distrib-
uted by the Union Pacific Railroad Company, we find the name "Shocatilicum,"
or "Friendly Water," given as the Chinook name for the Columbia. It is inter-
esting to notice that this same word for "friendly water" appears in Vol. II,
of the Lewis and Clark Journal, but with different spelling, in one place being
"Shocatilcum," and in another place "Chockalilum." Rev. Father Blanchet is
authority for the statement in "Historical Magazine," 11, 335, that the Chinook
Indians used the name "Yakaitl Wimakl" for the Lower Columbia. A Yakima
Indian called William Charley gives "Chewanna" as still another Indian name
for the Columbia.
To Yakima readers the native local names have a special interest. Most
prominent of all is Yakima. As in many other cases this sonorous word is
variously defined. It is said by some to mean "Great succotash garden," by
others to mean "robbers," though that last meaning is by still others applied to
Klickitat. Chief Stwires tells us that no one of the words Yakima, Klickitat,
and Kittitas has any special meaning, but simply are names of the tribes. Frank
Olney, of Toppenish, says that Yakima (which he gives as Yakeema) is a
Spokane word, comparatively recent and that Tapteal or Tapteet is the real
native name. The entire word from the Spokanes is Neeneeyakeema, and its
meaning is in substance, "we meet and part," or "neutrality." The phrase came
into existence as a result of a meeting between Spokanes and Yakimas at L^nion
Gap. The Indians were using the phrase when the whites came and the latter
finding it inconveniently long abbreviated it. Klickitat is defined by some as
meaning "a cove of salmon," others say "runners," others say that it is an imi-
tation of a horse galloping, while still others have it meaning "robbers." Tc
quote Frank Olney again, the word is a Cascade word, more nearly sounded as
Tsuckitat. Kittitas is said by Mr. Olney to signify a "bench of land," but its-
true sound is Klikitass, with a guttural difficult for white lips. The Klick
means ground and tass is simply euphonic. In the "History of Central Wash-
ington," page 323, Charles Splawn is quoted as saying that Kittitas comes from
Kittit, "white chalk," and "tash," place of existence. He says that there is at
the Manastash ford below Ellensburg a deposit of white chalk where the
Indians painted themselves.
We derive from Frank Olney and from his brother William, who lives near
White Swan, meanings of several additional names. Simcoe, better sounded as
"Tsimquee," signifies "Alountain of the pass," from "tsim," stationary, and
quee, hollow. Toppenish means a road or a stream coming down from the
86 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
mountain. The high-sounding word Pahotecute (which Yakima people ought
to preserve instead of Union Gap) signifies "putting two heads together," as
the two mountains meeting and forming the Gap. Good authorities tell us that
Pahquytikoot would be more correct. Naches, which is better spelled, Mr.
Olney says, Nachtchis, equals "one water." Cowiche, more nearly expressed
by Tquizmtass (beyond a white man's mouth) means a "foot-log crossing."
Wenas is the equivalent of a "coming in" or tributary, or, some say, a place
for traveling. Mr. David Longmire tells the writer that the Indians say that
Selah means "a still place." This might refer to the beautiful strip of placid
water just below Selah Gap. It seems to be a mooted question as to the origin
of the word Naches. Some old timers believe that the word comes from the city
on the Mississippi, and some have believed that this indicates that there was a
movement to and fro across the continent by Indians prior to white discovery.
It is, in fact, well known from Le Page's "Histoire de Louisiane" that a Yazoo
Indian, Montcachabe or Moncacht Ape, crossed the continent early in the
Eighteenth Century, making a three-year journey from tribe to tribe, reaching
the Pacific Ocean. The fine story of the journeys of this Yazoo Columbus is
found in all the standard histories. It would be indeed an interesting fact, if it
could be substantiated, that the life-giving stream from which Yakima draws
so much of its water supply derived its name through some Indian adventurer
from the Mississippi, "Father of Waters." But in view of the foregoing state-
ments of Mr. Olney it seems to the author certain that the word came from the
native local tongue, and has been twisted into a resemblance to that of the
Mississippi town.
There has been much discussion as to the origin of the names of the two
fine young cities on the Columbia, Kennewick and Pasco. Kennewick has been
said to be of Indian origin, meaning, some say, a "winter paradise." In a valu-
able paper by Mrs. W. T. Mann, of which a part appears in this volume, the
reader will find the statement that the name was first used by Mr. Houser, an
engineer, in 1883, and that it meant a "grassy place." But in the fine contribu-
tion to our chapter of Reminiscences by Mrs. Daisy Beach Emigh, the name is
said to have been intended to be CKenoweth, from an early fur-trader, but the
Indians could not get the proper sound, and "Kennewick" resulted. Rather
curiously there is a "Konnewock" just below L'nion Gap. We will all agree
that it is a "pretty word," whatever the origin. Frank Olney says that a word
very similar in sound was used by the lower Yakima Indians to apply to "dried
acorns." When they would make summer hunting trips up the river to the
mountains they were fond of getting acorns from the belt of oaks that run
through Simcoe and Tampico, and would take them home dried for winter use.
Pasco has had many supposed origins. It has been stated that the first
N. P. R. R. engineers gave the name from a town in South America meaning
sandy. Some assert that the name of Senator Pascoe of Florida was the true
source. There is a creek in the Satus region known as Pasco or Pisco. There
is the name Paska or Pashki, or Paskau ; used by the Indians to apply to the
Mill Creek flats just above Walla Walla city, signifying "Sunflower." Frank
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 87
Olney says that the Yakima Indians have the word "Pashaka," meaning "dry
fodder."
INDIAN MYTHS
We have many supposed Indian names for God, as "Nekahni," or
"SahaUe," but Miss Kate McBeth, long a missionary among the Nez Perces,
records in her book about them that those Indians had no native name for the
deity. Indian myths often deal with the chief God as "Nekahni," "Sahalie,"
"Dokidatl," "Snoqualm," or "Skomalt," while others have to do with the lesser
grade of the supernatural beings, as the Coyote god, variously named "Talla-
pus," "Speelyi," or "Sinchaleep." Others may treat of "Skallalatoots" (Fair-
ies), "Toomuck" (Devils), or the various forms of "Tomanowas" (magic). A
large number of these myths describe the supposed origin of strange features
of the natural world, rocks, lakes, whirlpools, winds and waterfalls. Some de-
scribe the "animal people," "Watetash," as the Klickitats call them. Some of
the best are fire-myths. These myths seem to have been common among all
Indians of the Columbia Valley.
Among the native myths of the Yakimas and their neighbors we find two
stories of a very different nature which we derive from a thorough investi-
gator. Dr. G. B. Kuykendall, of Pomeroy, Washington, for several years physi-
cian at Fort Simcoe. This is one : There is a legend among the Yakima Indians
which seems to have the same root in human nature as the beautiful Greek myth
of Orpheus and Eurjdice, showing the instinctive desire of people on earth
to bring back the spirits of the dead and the impossibility of doing so. This
myth sets forth how Speelyi and Whyama the eagle became at one time so
grieved at the loss of their loved ones that they determined to go to the land of
the spirits and bring them back. The two adventurers journeyed for a long
distance over an unbroken plain, and came at last to a great lake, on the farther
side of which they saw many houses. They called long and vainly for some
one to come with a boat and ferry them over. But there was no sign of life
and at last Whyama said that there could be no one there. Speelyi insisted,
however, that the people were simply sleeping the sleep of the day and would
come forth at night. Accordingly, when the sun went down and darkness began
to come on, Speelyi started to sing. In a few minutes they saw four spirit
men come to the bank, enter a boat and cross the lake to meet them. It seemed
not necessary for them to row the boat, for apparently it skimmed over the
water of its own accord. The spirit men having landed took Whyama and
Speelyi with them in the boat and began their return to the island of the dead.
The island seemed to be a very sacred place. There was a house of mats upon
the shore, where music and dancing were in progress. Speelyi and Whyama
begged leave to enter, and feeling hungry, they asked for food. The spirit land
was so much less gross than the earth that they were satisfied by what was
dipped with a feather out of a bottle. The spirit people now came to meet them
dressed in most beautiful costumes, and so filled with joy that Whyama felt a
great desire to share their happiness. By the time of the morning light, how-
ever, the festivities ceased and all the spirit people became wrapped in slumber
for the day. Speelyi, observing that the moon was hung up inside the great
88 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
banquet hall and seemed to be essential to the ongoings of the evening, sta-
tioned himself in such a place that he could seize it during the next night's-
meeting. As soon as night came on the spirits gathered again for the music
and dance. While festivities were in progress as usual, Speelyi suddenly sw^al-
lowed the moon, leaving the entire place in darkness. Then he and Whyama
brought in a box, which they had previously provided, and Whyama, flying
swiftly about the room, caught a number of the spirits and enclosed them in the
box. Then the two proceeded to start for the earth, Speelyi carrying the box
upon his back.
As the two adventurers went upon their journey toward the earth with
the precious box, the spirits, which at first were entirely imponderable, begaa
to be transformed into men and to have weight. Soon they began to cry out
on account of their crowded and uncomfortable position. Then they became
so heavy that Speeyli could no longer carry them. In spite of the remonstrance
of Whyama, he opened the box. They were astonished and overwhelmed with,
grief to see the partially transformed spirits flit away like autumn leaves and
disappear in the direction from which they had come. Whyama thought that
perhaps even as the buds grew in the spring, so the dead would come back with.
the blooming of the next flowers. But Speelyi deemed it best after this that the
dead should remain in the land of the dead. Had it not been for this, as the
Indians think, the dead would indeed return every spring with the opening of
the leaves.
The Ivlickitat Indians, living along The Dalles of the Columbia have an-
other legend of the land of spirits. There was a young chief and a girl who-
were devoted to each other and seemed to be the happiest people in the tribe,,
but suddenly he sickened and died. The girl mourned for him almost to the
point of death, and he, having reached the land of spirits, could find no happi-
ness there on account of thinking of her.
And so it came to pass that a vision began to appear to the girl by night,,
telling her that she must herself go into the land of the spirits in order to con-
sole her lover. Now there is near that place one of the most weird and
funereal of all the various "memaloose" islands, or death islands, of the Colum-
bia. The writer himself has been upon this island and its spectral volcanic deso-
lation makes it a fitting location for ghostly tales. It lies just below the Grand!
Dalles or "great chute," and even yet has many skeletons upon it. In accord-
ance with the direction of the vision, the girl's father made ready a canoe, placed
her in it, and rowed out into the great river by night to the memaloose island.
As the father and his child rowed across the dark and forbidding waters, they
began to hear the sound of singing and dancing and great joy. Upon the
shore of the island they were met by four spirit people, who took the girl but
bade the father return, as it was not for him to see into the spirit country. Ac-
cordingly the girl was conducted to the great dance house of the spirits, and
there she met her lover, far stronger and more beautiful than when upon earth.
That night they spent in unspeakable bliss, but when the light began to break in-
the east and the song of the robins began to be heard from the willows of the
shore, the singers and dancers began to fall asleep.
The girl, too, had gone to sleep, but not soundly like the spirits. Whert
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 89
the sun had reached the meridian, she woke, and now, to her horror, she saw
that instead of being in the midst of beautiful spirits, she was surrounded by
hideous skeletons and loathsome, decaying bodies. Around her waist were the
bony arms and skeleton fingers of her lover, and his grinning teeth and gaping
eye-sockets seemed to be turned in mockery upon her. Screaming with horor
she leaped up and ran to the edge of the island, where, after hunting a long
time, she found a boat, in which she crossed to the Indian village. Having pre-
sented herself to her astonished parents, they became fearful that some great
calamity would visit the tribe on account of her return, and accordingly her
father took her the next night back to the memaloose island as before. There
she met again the happy spirits of the blessed and there again her lover and she
spent another night in ecstatic bliss.
In the course of time a child was born to the girl, beautiful beyond descrip-
tion, being half spirit and half human. The spirit bridegroom, being anxious
that his mother should see the child, sent a spirit messenger to the village, de-
siring his mother to come by night to the memaloose island to visit them. She
was told, however, that she must not look at the child until ten days had passed.
But after the old woman had reached the island her desire to see the beautiful
child was so intense that she took advantage of a moment's inattention on the
part of the guard, and, lifting the cloth from the baby board, she stole a look
at the sleeping infant. And then, dreadful to relate, the baby died in conse-
quence of this premature human look. Grieved and displeased by this foolish
act, the spirit people decreed that the dead should never again return nor hold
any communication with the living.
As showing still another phase of Indian imagination, the stories of the
"Tomanowas Bridge" of the Cascades may well find a place here.
This myth not only treats of fire, but it also endeavors to account for the
peculiar formation of the river and for the great snow peaks in the near
vicinity. This myth has various forms, and in order that it may be the better
understood, we shall say a word with respect to the peculiar physical features
in that part of the Columbia. This mighty river, after having traversed over a
thousand miles from its source, in the heart of the Rocky Mountains of Canada,
has cleft the Cascade Range asunder with a canyon three thousand feet in depth.
While generally swift, that portion of the river between The Dalles and the
Cascades, of about fifty miles, is very deep and sluggish. There are moreover
sunken forests on both sides of the river, visible at low water, which seem plainly
to indicate that at that point the river was dammed up by some great rock slide
or volcanic convulsion. Some of the Indians affirm that their grandfathers
have told them that there was a time when the river at that point passed under
an immense natural bridge and that there were no obstructions to the passage
of boats under the bridge. At the present time there is a cascade of thirty feet
at that point. This is now overcome by government locks. Among other
evidences of some such actual occurrence as the Indians relate is the fact that
the banks of the river at that point are gradually sliding into the river. The
prodigious volume of the Columbia, which here rises fifty to seventy-five feet dur-
ing the summer flood, and which, as shown by government engineers, carries
nearly as much water as the Mississippi at New Orleans, is here continually eating
90 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
into the banks. The railroad has shd several inches a year at this point toward
the river and requires frequent readjustment. It is obvious at a slight inspec-
tion that this weird and sublime point in the course of this majestic river has
been the scene of terrific volcanic and probably seismic action. One Indian
legend, probably the best known of all their stories, is to the effect that the
downfall of the great bridge and consequent damming of the river was due
to a great battle between Mount Hood and Mount Adams, in which Mount
Hood hurled a great rock at his antagonist, but falling short of the mark, the
rock demolished the bridge instead. This event has been made use of by
Frederick Balch in his beautiful story, "The Bridge of the Gods," the finest
5tory yet produced in Oregon.
But the finer, though less known legend, which unites both the physical con-
formation of the Cascades and the three great snow mountains of Hood, Adams,
and St. Helens, with the origin of fire, is to this eifect. This story was secured
by Mr. Fred Saylor of Portland.
According to the Klickitats, there was once a father and two sons who
came from the East down the Columbia to the vicinity of where Dalles City
is now located, and there the two sons quarreled as to who should possess the
land. The father, to settle the dispute, shot two arrows, one to the north and
one to the west. He told one son to find the arrow to the north and
the other the one at the west, and there to settle and bring up their families.
The first son, going northward, over what was then a beautiful plain, became
the progenitor of the Klickitat tribe, while the other son was the founder of the
great Multnomah nation of the Willamette Valley. To separate the two tribes
more efifectively Sahale reared the chain of the Cascades, though without any
great peaks, and for a long time all things went in harmony. But, for conven-
ience sake, Sahale had created the great Tomanowas Bridge, under which the
waters of the Columbia flowed, and on this bridge he had stationed a witch
woman called Loowit. who was to take charge of the fire. This was the only
fire in the world. As time passed on Loowit observed the deplorable condition
of the Indians, and besought Sahale that she might bestow the fire on them.
Sahale, having been greatly pleased by the faithfulness and benevolence of
Loowit, finally granted her request. The lot of the Indians was wonderfully
improved by the acquisition of fire. They now began to make better lodges
and clothes, and had a variety of food and implements, and, in short, were marvel-
ously benefited by the bounteous gift.
But Sahale, in order to show his appreciation of the care with which Loowit
had guarded the sacred fire, now determined to offer her any gift she might
desire as a reward. Accordingly, in response to his offer, Loowit asked that she
be transformed into a young and beautiful girl. This was accordingly effected
and now, as might have been expected, all the Indian chiefs fell deeply in love
with the beautiful guardian of the Tomanowas Bridge. Loowit paid little heed
to any of them, until finally there came two magnificent chiefs, one from the
north called Klickitat, and one from the south called Wiyeast. Loowit was
uncertain which of these two she most desired, and as a result a bitter strife
arose between the two, and this waxed hotter and hotter, until finally, with
their respective warriors, they entered upon a desperate war. The land was
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 91
ravaged, all the beautiful things which they had made were marred, and misery
and wretchedness ensued. Sahale repented that he had allowed Loowit to bestow
fire upon the Indians, and determined to undo all his work in so far as he could.
Accordingly, he broke down the Tomanowas Bridge, which dammed up the
river with an impassable reef and put to death Loowit, Klickitat and Wiyeast.
But, he said, inasmuch as they had been so grand and beautiful in life, he would
give them a fitting commemoration after death. Therefore, he reared over them
as monuments the great snow peaks ; over Loowit what we now call Mount St.
Helens, over Wiyeast the modern Mount Hood, and above Klickitat the stupen-
dous dome of what we now call Mount Adams.
STUDENTS OF INDIAN MYTHS
And now it is a matter of much interest to learn something of the chief
original sources and the most reliable investigation of these myths. This survey
is necessarily incomplete. The endeavor is to name the students and writers of
myths as far as possible. This search goes beyond the Yakima and covers Old
Oregon.
First in the natural order of the investigators and records of Indian myths
come the early explorers and writers of Old Oregon. Most of these give us
little on the special subject of myths, though they give much on the habits,
customs, occupations, and implements of the natives. The earliest explorer
in Oregon, so far as known to the author, to give any native legend, is Gabriel
Franchere, who came to Astoria with the Astor Fur Company, in 1811. In his
narrative, upon which Irving's "Astoria" is largely based, we find a fine story of
the creation of men by Etalapass, and their subsequent improvement by Ecan-
num. Franchere says that this legend was related to him by Ellewa, one of the
sons of Concomly, the one-eyed Chinook chief, who figures conspicuously in
Franchere's narrative. Of valuable books of the same period of Franchere,
are Ross Cox's "Adventures on the Columbia River," and Alexander Ross'
"Adventures on the Columbia River" and "The Fur Traders of the Far
West," all of which contain valuable references to the customs and supersti-
tious ideas of the natives, though not much in the way of myths. Ross gives
an interesting myth of the Oakinackens (Okanogans as we now say) about the
origin of the Indians or Skyloo on the white man's island, Samahtamawhoolah.
The Indians were then very white and ruled by a female spirit, or Great Mother,
named Skomalt, but their island got loose and drifted on the ocean for many
suns, and as a result they became darkened to their present hue. Ross gives
also an account of the belief of the Oakinackens in a good spirit, one of whose
names is Skyappa, and a bad spirit, one of whose names was Oiacha. The
chief deity of those Indians seems to have been the great mother of life, Skomalt,
whose name also has the addition of "Squisses." Ross says that those Indians
change their names constantly, and doubtless their deities did the same.
Captain Charles Wilkes, the American explorer of the early forties, gives
a very interesting account of a Palouse myth of a beaver which was cut up
to make the tribes. This is evidently another version of the Klickitat story of
the great beaver, Wishpoosh, of Lake Cle Elum. One of the most important
92 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
of the early histories of Oregon is Dunn's, the materials for which were gath-
ered in the decade of the forties. With other valuable matter it contains ac-
counts of the religious conceptions of the Indians, and here we find the legend
of the Thunder Bird of the Tinneh, a northern tribe. In this same general
period, though a little later, we find the most brilliant of all writers dealing
with early Oregon; that is, the gifted scholar, poet, and soldier, Theodore
Winthrop. His book, "Canoe and Saddle," has no rival for literary excellence
and graphic power among all the books which have dealt with the Northwest.
The book was first published in 1862, and republished fifty years later in
beautiful form by John H. Williams, of Tacoma. "Canoe and Saddle" com-
memorates a journey from Puget Sound across the mountains and through the
Yakima and Klickitat countries in 1853. It contains several fine Indian stories,
notably that of the Miser of Mount Tacoma, and that of the Devil of The
Dalles. Winthrop does not state from whom directly he secured the second
of these myths, but no doubt from the Indians themselves, though the peculiar
rich imagination and picturesque language of Winthrop are in evidence through-
out the narration. The tale of the IMiser of Mount Tacoma is attributed by
Winthrop to Hamitchou, an Indian of the Squallygamish tribe.
At about the same time as Winthrop, occurred the visit and investigations
of James G. Swan, whose book, "The Northwest Coast," was published in 1857.
In this is found the creation myth of the Ogress of Saddle Mountain, relating
the issuing forth of Indians from eggs cast down the mountain side by the
Ogress. Many years ago Rev. Myron Eells told the writer a variation of that
story, which has appeared in sundry forms and publications, being the story of
Toulux, the South Wind, Quootshoi the Witch, and Skamson the Thunder Bird.
In addition to the legend of the Thunder Bird, Swan gives many items of
peculiar interest. Among these we find his idea that certain customs of the
Indians ally them with the Ten Lost Tribes of Israel. His final impression seems
to be, however, that they are autocthonous in America. He refers to the observa-
tion of General George Gibbs of the similarity of Klickitat myths to those in
Longfellow's Hiawatha. He also refers to the beeswax ship of the Nehalem.
In connection with the thought of Indian resemblance to the Ten Lost Tribes,
it is worth noticing that this has come from various directions. Miss Kate
AIcBeth has expressed the same in connection with the Nez Perces. It was
also a favorite idea with B. B. Bishop, one of the earliest builders of steamboats
on the Columbia, who lived many years at Pendleton, Oregon. He told the
writer that the Indians at the Cascades had a spring festival with the first run
of salmon. They would boil the first large salmon caught, and' have a ceremony
in which the whole tribe would pass in procession around the fish, each taking
a bit. They exercised the utmost care to leave the skeleton intact, so that in
the end it had been picked clean but with not a bone broken. Mr. Bishop thought
that this was a survival of the Jewish idea of the Paschal Lamb.
Among the great collectors of all kinds of historical data in what might
be called the middle period of Northeast history and not exactly belonging to
any one of the specific groups, is H. H. Bancroft, already referred to in the
first part of this chapter. In his "Native Races," are found many myths, with
reference given, but these mainly deal with Mexican, Central American, and
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 93
Califomian Indians. He refers to Holmburg's ethnological studies in German
as containing valuable matter in regard to our Northwestern Indians. Harmon's
Journal, with its reference to the Tacullies of British Columbia and their legend
of the Musk Rat, is also named. In the same connection we find reference to
Yehl the Raven, an especial favorite of the Indians of British Columbia and the
upper part of Puget Sound.
From what may be termed the first group of narrators of native tribes,
we may turn to those that may be called the scientific ethnologists. We are
indebted to Dr. Franz Boas, himself the foremost of the group, for the list of
these professional students of the subject. These men took up the matter in a
more scientific and methodical way than the travelers and pioneers and have
presented the results of their work in form that appeals to the scholar, the work
of trained investigators, seeking the facts and giving them as exactly as possible,
not affected by the distortions and exaggerations common to unscientific ob-
servers. They were all connected with the Smithsonian Institution, and their
work was mainly under the Government.
The Bibliography as given by Dr. Boas is as follows:
Edward Sapir, Wishram Txts (publications of the American Ethnological
Society, Vol. II).
Leo J. Frachtenberg, Coos Texts (Columbia University contributions to
Anthropology, Vol. I.)
Leo J. Frachtenberg, Lower Umpqua Texts (ibid. Vol. IV).
James Teit, Traditions of the Thompson Indians (Memoirs of the American
Folk Lore Society, Vol. VI). (This is not Washington, but practically
identical with material from the interior of Washington.)
James Teit, Mythology of the Thompson Indians (Jesup North Pacific Ex-
pedition Publications, Vol. VIII).
James Teit, the Shushwap (ibid. Vol. II).
Franz Boas, Indianische Sagen von der Nord Pacifischen Kuste Amerikas.
Franz Boas, Mythology of the Indians of Washington and Oregon.
(Globus, Vol. LXIII, pp. 154-157, 172-175, 190-19.^.)
H. J. Spinden, Myths of the Nez Perce (Journal of American Folk Lore,
Vol. XXI).
Louisa McDermott, Myths of the Flathead Indians (ibid. Vol. XIV.)
Franz Boas, Sagen der Kootenay (Berlin Society for Anthropology, Ethnol-
ogy, etc., Vol. XXIII, pp. 161-172).
Livingston Farrand, Traditions of the Quinault Indians (Publications of
the Jesup North Pacific Expedition, Vol. II).
^ Franz Boas, Chinook Texts (Bureau of Ethnology, Government Printing
Office, 1894).
Franz Boas, Cathlamet Texts (ibid.).
James Teit, Traditions of the Lilloost Indians (Journal of American Folk
Lore, Vol. XXV).
Jeremiah Curtin, Myths of the Modocs (Little, Brown & Co.).
To these may be added, as of special value, the studies of Prof. Albert S.
Gatchett among the Modocs, found under the title, "Oregonian Folk Lore," in
the Journal of American Folk Lore, Vol. IV, 1891, Houghton, Mifflin & Co.
94 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
The other vohimes of the Journal of American Folk Lore from 1888 to 1913
contain valuable matter. In Professor Gatchett's book are found some of the
finest fire myths and fish myths of the Northwest.
Doctor Boas found a treasury of information in an old Indian named Charlie
Cultee at Bay Center in Willapa Harbor, Washington, and from that source
derived the material for the most scientific and uncolored study of Indian lore
yet given to the public. Some of this appears in the Chinook Texts of Doctor
Boas. In this is the storj', by Charlie Cultee, of the wreck on Clatsop beach.
This is found also in H. S. Lyman's History of Oregon.
Following the groups of the explorers and the professional ethnologists may
come the larger body of miscellaneous collectors and writers, who, through local
papers and magazines and published books, as well as personal narration, have
rescued many quaint and curious gems of Indian mythology from oblivion and
through various channels have imparted them to the slowly accumulating stock.
Those no longer living may properly appear first. Of comparatively recent
students no longer living, Silas Smith of Astoria was one of the best. His father
was Solomon Smith of the Wyeth Expedition, while his mother was Celiast,
daughter of the Clatsop Chief, Cobaiway. Through his Indian mother, Mr.
Smith obtained interesting matter, much of which was preserved by H. S. Lyman
in his history of Oregon, and in articles in the Oregonian, Historical Quarterly,
and other publications. H. S. Lyman was also an original investigator, deriving
his data mainly from Silas Smith and from a group of Indians who formerly
lived at the mouth of the Nekanicum. These stories appear in his history of
Oregon, and in a group contained in the "Tallapus Stories," published in the
Oregonian. Another intelligent and patient investigator was Rev. Myron Eells,
who lived for many years on Hood's Canal. Years ago the author heard from
him legends of the Indians which he derived directly from the natives, such as the
Thunder Bird, the Flood around Mount Tacoma (which he thought colored by
the story of Noah in the Bible), and others. In the book by Mr. Eells entitled
"Ten 'l^'ears' ^Missionary Work in Skokomish," he gives a valuable description
of the "Tomanowas." In various numbers of the American Antiquarian, Mr.
Eells has valuable articles as follows: "The Religion of the Twana Indians,"
July, 1879; "Dokidatl, or the God of the Puget Sound Indians," November,
1884; "The Indians of Puget Sound," May, 1888, and March, 1890.
Prominent among the scholars and lecturers of Oregon is the great name of
Thomas Condon, for a long time in the State University, and the earliest student
in a large way of the geology of the Northwest. He was interested in Indian
myths as in almost everything that had to do with men and nature. The legend
of the "Bridge of the Gods," already given in this chapter, particularly appealed
to him. One of the notable students of both the geology and anthropology of
the Northwest was George Gibbs, who came to Oregon as a Government geolo-
gist in 1853. In his report on the Pacific Railroad in House of Representatives
Documents of 1853-54, he gives the first published version, so far as we can dis-
cover, of the "Bridge of the Gods." He tells the story thus : "The Indians tell a
characteristic tale of Mount Hood and Mount St. Helens to the effect that they
were man and wife; that they finally quarreled and threw fire at one another,
and that Mount St. Helens was victor; since when Mount Hood has been afraid.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 95
while St. Helens, having a stout heart, still burned. In some versions this story-
is connected with the slide which formed the Cascades of the Columbia." Mr.
Gibbs also gives some Yakima legends.
One of the most distinguished of all the literary pioneers of Old Oregon was
Samuel A. Clark. In his "Pioneer Days in. Oregon" are several interesting
legends well told. In this we find the legend of the Nehalem, with Ona and
Sandy and all their tribulations. We find here told also the story of the Bridge
of the Gods, in which Hood and Adams are represented as the contending forces,
having been originally the abutments of the Bridge of the Gods. But the most
noted contribution of Mr. Clark to this legend was his poem called, "The Legend
of the Mountains," referring to the fabled bridge, which appeared in Harper's
Magazine of February, 1874. This represents Mount St. Helens as a goddess
for whom Hood and Adams contended, hurling huge stones at each other and
finally breaking down the bridge. The story of the bridge became the most noted
of all native myths, being related to practically every traveler that made the
steamboat trip down the Columbia.
Let us now turn to those discoverers and writers of Indian myths who are
still living. The majority of these are from the nature of the case adapters and
transcribers, rather than original students, but some among them are entitled to
the place of genuine investigators. Among these a foremost place must be ac-
corded to Fred A. Savior of Portland. He was for several years editor of the
"Oregon Native Son," and for it he wrote a number of stories which he derived
directly from the Indians. A student of these stories from boyhood, he has ac-
cumulated the largest collection of matter both published and unpublished of
any one in the Northwest. This collection is preserved by him in fourteen large
scrap books, and constitutes a treasury of valuable data which it is to be hoped
mav soon appear in a published form for the delight and profit of many readers.
Among the legends of which Mr. Savior is entitled to be regarded as the dis-
coverer are these : "The Legend of Tahoma," "Why the Indian Fears Golden
Hair," or "The Origin of Castle Rock" ; "Speelyi, or the Origin of Latourelle
Falls and the Pillars of Hercules"; "Thorns on Rosebushes"; "The Noah of
the Indians"; "The Legend of Snake River Valley"; "A Wappato Account of
the Flood"; "The Last Signal Fire of the Multnomah"; "The Legend of the
Willamette" ; "The Love of an Indian Maid" ; "Enumpthla" ; "Coyote's Tomb" ;
"Multnomah." The last named has been presented by students on the campus
of the State University and also at the Agricultural College of Oregon.
Of investigators known to the author, none seems more worthy of extended
and favorable mention than Dr. G. B. Kuykendall of Pomeroy, Washington.
As already stated, he was for a number of years the physician for the Yakima
Reservation at Fort Simcoe and has many friends throughout the Yakima coun-
try. He began his work of collecting in 1875, deriving his knowledge directly
from the Indians. His authorities were almost entirely old Indians, for from
such only could he secure narrations of unadulterated character. His first pub-
lished writings were in the "West Shore", of Portland, in 1887. His most mature
contribution, which may indeed be considered the best yet given to the public, is
found in Vol. II, of the "History of the Pacific Northwest," published by the
North Pacific History Company, of Portland, in 1889. This is an admirable
96 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
piece of work, and students of the subject will find here a treasure of native
lore. The following is the list of stories given by Doctor Kuykendall in that
work: "Wishpoosh, the Beaver God, and the Origin of the Tribes"; "Speelyi
Fights Enumtla"; "Spellyi Outwits the Beaver Women"; "Rock Myths";
"Legend of the Tick" ; "Mountain Lake Myths" ; "The Origin of Fire" ; "Water
Nymphs"; "Wawa, the Mosquito God"; "Origin of the Loon"; "Castiltah, the
Crayfish" ; "Wakapoosh, the Rattle Snake" ; "The Tumwater Luminous Stone
God" ; "The Wooden Firemen of the Cascades" ; "Contest Between the Chinooks
and Cold Wind Brothers" ; "Speelyi's Ascent to Heaven" ; "Coyote and Eagle
Attempt to Bring the Dead Back from Spirit Land"; "The Isle of the Dead".
Another original investigator and author of a unique and picturesque book
devoted exclusively to Indian myths, is W. W. Phillips of Seattle, well known by
his non-de-plume of "El Comancho." The book by Mr. Phillips is "Totem
Tales". Mr. Phillips says that he gathered the matter for "Totem Tales" from
the Puget Sound Indians and from Haida Indians who had come south. This
work was mainly done about twenty-five years ago. He verified such of his
matter by comparing with Judge Swan, and by the stories acquired by Dr. Shaw,
who was at one time Indian agent at Port Madison, and whose wife was one of
the daughters of old Chief Sealth (Seattle). He derived matter for comparison
also from Rev. Myron Eells. The chief Indian authority of Mr. Phillips was
old Chisiahka (Indian John to the Whites), and it was a big tree on the shore of
Lake Union that suggested the idea of the "Talking Pine" which the author
wove so picturesquely into the narrative. Mr. Phillips has also published the
"Chinook Book" ; the most extensive study of the "Jargon language" yet made.
To the others he has added a most attractive book entitled "Indian Tales for
Little Folks."
Another present-day investigator, whose work is especially worthy of men-
tion is Rev. J. Neilson Barry, an enthusiastic and intelligent student of every
phase of the history of the Northwest, formerly of Baker, Oregon, now of
Spokane. In Chapter III, of Volume I, of Gaston's "Centennial History of
Oregon," Mr. Barry gives a valuable contribution to Indian legends.
Yet another original student was Miss Kate McBeth, of Lapwai, Idaho,
recently deceased ,who, with her sister, lived for years among the Nez Perces,
performing a most beneficent missionary work for them. In her book, "The
Nez Perces Since Lewis and Clark," may be found the Kamiah myth, and a few
others derived directly from those Indians. Mention may well be made here also
of a Nez Perce Indian named Luke, previously referred to, living at Kamiah,
who has a very intelligent knowledge of all kinds of Indian matters. Miss
McBeth says that the Nez Perces do not like to discuss generally their "heathen"
stories and customs. In connection with the Nez Perces it may be stated that
Yellov; Wolf of Nespilem is an authority on the myth of the Kamiah monster.
Still another enthusiastic student of Indian legends is Lucullus V.
McWhorter of Yakima, who is one of the advisory board for this history. He
is an adopted member of the Yakima tribe, and has been of incalculable benefit
to the Indians in instructing them as to their rights, in presenting their cause
to the Government, and in making known their needs as well as some of their
wrongs to the general public through voice and pen. As an educational factor
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 97
for both races, he has made a specialty in recent years of organizing bands of
tribesmen and taking them to historic pageants, celebrations and "Frontier
Days." At the "Astoria Centennial" (Oregon), August and September, 1911,
his Nez Perces and Yakimas took a prominent part in that wonderfully striking
play, "The Bridge of the Gods," as dramatized from Balch by Mabel Ferris
and there staged for the first time. A recent pamphlet by him on the treatment
of the Yakimas in connection with their water rights is an "eye-opener," on some
phases of Indian service and Indian problems. Mr. McWhorter has gathered
a large amount of matter from the Indians, in which is material for three books :
"Traditions of the Yakimas" ; "Camp Stories of the Yakimas," and "Nez Perce
Warriors in the War of 1877". Among the proteges of Mr. McWhorter from
whom he tells the author that much of interest could be derived, are Chief Yel-
low Wolf of the Joseph band of Nez Perces, and Mrs. Crystal McLeod, known
to her people as Humishuma, or Alorning Dove, an Okanogan woman of un-
usual beauty and intelligence and well instructed in the English language. Her
picture appears in this work from photographs taken by Mr. John Langdon of
Walla Walla. She is herself an author and has ready for the press a book which
promises to be one of rare value and interest.
One of the most notable contributions to recent Northwest history is by
another of the most prominent pioneers of Yakima, A. J. Splawn, recently de-
ceased. His volume, "Kamiakin, the Last Hero of the Yakimas," has attracted
the interest of all readers of history in this section.
Any reference to any phase of Oregon would be incomplete without men-
tion of John Minto, one of the most honored of pioneers, one of the noblest of
men, and one of the best examples of those ambitious, industrious, and high
minded State builders who gave the Northwest its loftiest ideals. Mr. Minto was
a student of the Indians and discovered and gave to the world various Clatsop and
Nehalem legends. Yet another investigator is Hon. E. L. Smith of Hood River,
Oregon, well known as an official and legislator of both Oregon and Washington,
and a man of such character that all who ever knew him have the highest honor
for him in every relation of life. He has made a life-long study of the natives
and has a great collection of myths both in mind and on paper. He is one of the
most sympathetic, tolerant and appreciative of investigators, one whom the In-
dians of the Mid-Columbia trust implicitly. He has written little for publication
in comparison with what he knows, and it is to be hoped that his stores of ma-
terial may yet be brought to the public. Worthy of mention as a general student
of the geography and language of the Indians, is Mr. John Gill of Portland.
While he has not made a specialty of myths, he has studied the habits and lan-
guage with special attention, and his dictionary of the Chinook jargon is one of
the most valuable collections of the kind.
It is proper to mention here several who are well versed in native lore, yet
who have not given their knowledge of legends or myths to the public in book
or magazine form. The most conspicuous, indeed, of this group, is no longer
living. This was Dr. William C. McKay, a grandson of the McKay of the Astor
Fur Company, who lost his life on the Tonquin. The mother of Doctor McKay
was a Chinook "princess." He was a man of great ability and acquired a fine
education. He lived for years in Pendleton, Oregon, where he died some time
(7)
98 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
ago. In the possession of his children and grandchildren there is undoubtedly-
valuable material and if it could be reduced to written form it would furnish
matter of great interest. Certain others of Indian blood may be properly added
here who could give material for interesting narrations. Among these are Henry
Sicade and William Wilton, living on the Puyallup Reservation near Tacoma;
Samuel McCaw of Wapato and Charlie Pitt, of the Warm Springs Agency in
Oregon. Frank Olney, of Toppenish, and William Olney, of White; Swan, sons
of Nathan Olney and an Indian mother, are excellent authorities.
Mr. Jay Lynch of Yakima, for many years agent at Fort Simcoe, is very-
good authority on Indiana customs. He had one of the finest collections of Indian
baskets and curios in the Yakima country, which was acquired by the Tififanys
of New York. Mr. Cobum, of White Swan, for many years a trader on the
Yakima Reservation, has what is probably the best collection of Indian curios in
the Northwest, and he is perhaps more familiar with Indians and their history
than any other white man in the Yakima country.
This summary of Indian stories and their investigators is necessarily incom-
plete. One of the hopes in including it in this work is that it may lead to added
contributions. As we contemplate the beauty and grandeur of Old Oregon, which
includes Washington and Idaho and a part of Montana, and the pathos, heroism
and nobility of its history, and as we see the pitiful remnant of the Indians, we
cannot fail to be touched with the quaint and pathetic and suggestive myths
and legends that are passing with them into the twilight. In our proud days of
possession and of progress we do well to pause and drop the tear of sympathy
and place the chaplet of commemoration upon the resting place of the former
lords of the land, and to recognize their contributions to the common stock of
human thought.
In concluding this chapter we insert a valuable article from the Washing-
ton Magazine of June, 1906, by Harlan I. Smith, of the American Museum of
Natural History of New York.
ARCHEOLOGY OF THE YAKIMA VALLEY
By Harlan I. Smith,
Of the American Museum of Natural History, New York
Archaeological explorations were made by the writer in the Yakima Valley,
Washington, for the American Museum of Natural History in the first part of
the field season of 1903. These resulted in the discovery of a number of speci-
mens and human skeletons, as well as the securing of several dozen photographs
and a mass of field notes. Other data have been securred, both before the ex-
pedition and since, from collections and museums. The following preliminary
account is made up from these results, which may not be published in full for
some time to come.
Central Washington is arid. In most respects the climate resembles that of
the southern interior of British Columbia to the north. The Summers are per-
haps warmer and the Winters colder. There is less vegetation, and no trees
are seen except in river bottoms or where irrigation has been successfully
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 99
prosecuted. The prehistoric people had no great staples, and had to rely upon
perhaps even a greater variety of natural products than did the people farther
north.
A glance at the linguistic map of Washington shows the great number of
tribes inhabiting the general region. This suggests the possibility of the exist-
ence of more than one culture area within the same territory, although, of
course, we may find several tribes, especially if they be subjected to the same
environment, all within one culture area.
Definite age can not be assigned to the archaeological finds, since here, as
to the north, the remains are found at no great depth or in soil the surface of
which is frequently shifted. Some of the graves are known to be of modem
Indians but many of them antedate the advent of the white race in this region,
or at least contain no objects of European manufacture, such as glass beads or
iron knives. On the other hand, there was found no positive evidence of the
great antiquity of any of the skeletons, artifacts or structures found in the area.
The implements used in securing food include many chipped projectile
points of bright-colored agates, chalcedonies and similar stone. Several small
quarries of this material, with adjacent workshops, were found. While the
bulk of the stone used was quite different from the black basalt employed to
the north, yet a few points chipped from that material were also found. Points
rubbed out of stone or bone were rare. Digging stick handles were seen, but
no sap scrapers were found.
Some small heaps of fresh water clam shells were examined but these
being only about five feet in diameter and as many inches in depth, are hardly
to be compared to the immense shell heaps of the coast. Net sinkers were made
by notching and also by grooving pebbles. Such sinkers were very rare to the
north, and much more numerous here than on the coast, except near the mouth i
of the Columbia River, where grooved sinkers, usually slightly different fromi
these, are found.
For preparing food, pestles were used. These differ from those found
either to the north or on the coast, many of them being much longer. Some
had tops in the form of animal heads. Fish knives made of slate were not
found, and, it is believed, pottery was not made in the region.
Sites of ancient semi-underground houses, like those found in the Thomp-
son River region, were photographed. Here, however, stones were seen on top
of the embankment. No saucer-shaped depressions were seen, but circles of
stones were found, which similarly may mark lodge sites, since the moderni
Indian has a lodge identical in shape with that found to the north, where saucer-
shaped depressions occur. Pairs of arrow-shaft smoothers were seen.
An idea of the ancient form of dress was obtained from a costumed human-
figure carved in antlers, which was found in the grave of a little child. It had a
feather head-dress like that of the present Indians of the region from here to
as far east as the Dakotas. The hair was dressed and ornamented with detalium
shells. The body is represented as painted, and with a fringed apron around the
loins. The costume indicated is unlike that of the coast, but resembles those of-
the plateaus to the south and the plains to the east.
100 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Besides a tubular form of pipe, one type consisting simply of a bowl was
found. This is not seen among archaeological remains from other parts of the
Northwest, although pipes used by the Thompson River Indians seem to re-
semble it. The fact suggests that the culture of this region is somewhat more
closely related to that farther east than are the cultures of the areas to the
north and west.
Art work was found here as in the other areas. The costumed human figure,
made of antlers, engraved on one surface, is of good technique and artistic
execution. The circle and dot design was common. Paintings made with red
and white on basaltic cliffs, many of which represent human heads with head-
dresses, and some the whole figure, were also seen. These were made up of
lines, and were pictographic in character. Sometimes such pictures were made
by pecking into the surface of the columns instead of by painting. A design
similar to the part of these pictures interpreted as representing the headdress
was also found pecked into the surface of a grooved net sinker. Some of the
pestles had knobs in the form of animal heads, but in general the art of the
region tended to line work of geometric and pictographic patterns. The general
style of art shows little resemblance to that of the coast, but a strong relation-
ship to that of the plains.
There were three methods of disposing of the dead. In this arid region are
stretches of country locally known as "scab-land," on which are occasionally
groups of low dome-shaped knolls from about fifty to one hundred feet in diam-
eter by three to six feet in height. These knolls consist of fine volcanic ash, and
apparently have been left by the wind. This ashy material has been swept from
the intervening surface, leaving the "scab-land" paved with fragments of basalt
imbedded in a hard soil. The prehistoric Indians of this region have used many
of these knolls, each as a site for a single grave. These graves, which are
located in the tops of the knolls, are usually marked by large river pebbles, or
in some cases by fragments of basalt that appear as a circular pavement pro-
jecting slightly above the surface of the soil. In one only did we find a box or
cyst. This box was formed of thin slabs of basaltic rock, some placed on edge,
and two large flat slabs covering the cyst so formed. Above this, as was usually
the case above the skeletons in this sort of grave, the space was filled with
irregular rocks or pebbles. The skeletons were found flexed, on the side. In
the graves artifacts, such as dentalium shells, were deposited at the time of
burial. Simple graves in the level ground were not found. The rock slides,
as in the region to the north, had frequently been used as burial places. In
these skeletons were always in a flexed position. Objects were found to have
been placed in some of these graves. Rings of stones were also seen, and on
excavation within them cremated human remains were found, usually several
in each circle. In such places dentalium shells, flat shell beads and shell orna-
ments were usually seen.
The prehistoric culture of the region was apparently similar to that of the
present natives.
Numerous evidences were found of the close communication of the people
of this culture with tribes of the southern interior of British Columbia. The
preponderance of chipped over ground points, digging stick handles, sites of
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY lOl
semi-underground houses, pestles with tops in the form of animal heads, pairs
of arrow shaft smoothers, as well as tubular pipes, an incised decoration con-
sisting of a circle with a dot in it, and engraved dentalium shells, each of a
particular kind, besides rock-slide-sepulchers, and the custom of burying arti-
facts with the dead, were found to be common to both regions. Certain pestles
and clubs made of stone differed from those found in British Columbia, while
the chipped implements were made of a greater variety of stone, and more of
beautifully colored material were found. Notched and grooved sinkers were
much more common, and sap-scrapers were not found.
Considerable material of the same art as that found in The Dalles region
was seen. It is clear that the people living in the Yakima Valley had exten-
sive communication, not only with the region northward as far as the Thomp-
son Valley but also southward as far as The Dalles of the Columbia. In this
connection it is interesting to note that the present Indians of the region travel
even more extensively than would be necessary to distribute their artifacts this
far.
Much less evidence of contact between the prehistoric people of the coast
and that of the Yakima Valley was discovered. Many of the pestles and clubs
made of stone were different from those found on the coast, where, it will also
be remembered, artifacts were not found with the dead. A pipe, however, and
sea shells of several species, were seen. The pipe is clearly of the art of the
Northwest coast. It was found far up the Toppenish River, one of the western
tributaries of the Yakima.
In general the culture of the prehistoric people resembled that of the pres-
ent natives, and was affiliated with the cultures farther east, but differed from
both the prehistoric and present culture of the coast to the west, and even of the
southern interior of British Columbia to the north and The Dalles to the south.
From the whole series of archreological explorations, in British Columbia
and Washington, begun in 1897 for the Jesup North Pacific Expedition, and
continued in 1903 for the American Museum of Natural History, we have
learned that the material culture of the prehistoric people and the present natives
was similar in each area examined ; that the culture of the coast is of one sort,
that of the interior of southern British Columbia of another; from which that
of central Washington differs somewhat; and that there are several small cul-
ture areas lying adjacent to these. We find that each culture apparently de-
veloped independently or at least more in accord with its own environment and
local tradition rather than with any outside influence, but that at various times,
especially in the past, each has been influenced by one or more of tf^e others.
In general the culture of the North Pacific coast does not extend far in-
land. Northward its limits are unknown, but southward it coalesces with that
from the Columbia River in the region between Seattle and Shoalwater Bay.
In the interior we have a plateau culture of which, likewise, that part to the
north, differs somewhat from that to the south.
Experience in this work emphasizes the advisability of conducting archae-
ological investigations in cooperation with students of living tribes. A study of
the modern Indians living in a country under investigaton usually throws light
on archaeological finds made there, while an understanding of the antiquities of
102 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
a region often helps in the study of the present natives. Besides, in this way
the continuity of the historical problems is met by a continuity of method.
In selecting successive fields of operation it seems best always to continue
explorations in an area so far distant from one already examined that new con-
ditions will be encountered. This will make it probable that new facts will be
discovered ; possibly a new culture area. At the same time the new field of
operations should be near enough that no culture may intervene. Thus the
boundaries of culture areas may be determined and new areas discovered. This
method of continuation from past fields of exploration allows any experience
there gained to be of service in each new and adjacent field, while the discover-
ies in each new region may always lead to a better understanding of the areas
•explored and that perhaps in time for incorporation in the results to be pub-
lished.
It remains to determine the northern, eastern and southern limits of the
general plateau culture^ how far it may be subdivided into local culture areas,
the interrelation of each of these, and of each to outside cultures.
But few specimens have been found in the whole area extending from the
■central Arctic region to the Columbia River, and from there southward along
the coast to the Santa Barbara Islands, thence to the Pueblo region and east-
ward as far as the mounds of the Mississippi Valley. Literature on the archae-
ology of the area is scanty. That whole region, north to the Arctic, across all
the plains towards the east, and the plateaus south throughout Nevada, remains
to be explored.
CHAPTER III
ERA OF DISCOVERY
DAYS OF FIRST DISCOVERY — THE "eRA OF LIARs" RUSSIA WAKES UP — SPAIN'S
OPPORTUNITY — HECETA's ACCOUNT — ACTUAL DISCOVERY OF THE COLUMBIA
RIVER FUR TRADE BEGINS — THE COLUMBIA REDIVIVA — THE GEOGRAPHICAL
SPHINX THE SIZE OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER.
One of the grandest and most significant of all the dramas of human progress
is the discovery of the Pacific Coast of North America, its subsequent acquisi-
tion by the people of the United States, and its progressive evolution under that
people to its present stage of world importance, with the vision of yet larger
development in the unfoldings of the Twentieth Century.
We shall better comprehend and estimate the acts and scenes of this great
drama if we rapidly unroll before our minds the opening act, that of first dis-
covery.
The earliest discoverers, beginning with Columbus, had become so accus-
tomed to weighing all things in the scales of the Old World and especially of
finding new routes to the supposed treasures of the Orient, India and Golconda,
that they vailed their eyes for a time — a long time, it seems to us — and with
seeming obstinacy, to the truth that they had made a far vaster discovery than
that of a new route to the lethargic and somnolent lands of the most ancient
world. Only gradually did it dawn upon the minds of these heroes of the sea,
those new Jasons seeking for vaster and more precious fleeces, that they had
steered their prows to a new continent, where development should within five
centuries hold up to mankind the banners of new hopes, new aims, new
achievements, by which there should no longer be an Orient, or an Occident,
but a world, no longer petty dynastic struggles and the dictation of warring
groups of pirate kings and robber barons, but the beginning of life for a united
world and a national humanity. As the most significant feature between the
close of the Fifteenth Century and the middle of the Twentieth, it may be seen
by future historians that the discovery of a new continent of man's intellectual
and moral life was the logical outcome of the discovery of the physical con-
tinent of America by Columbus and his followers.
Inasmuch as the new lands seemed to those first navigators of American
waters obstacles in the way of fulfilling the supposedly vital establishment of a
water route to India, the greatest aim of those navigators was to find open
channels through what they persistently believed to be a fringe of islands
screening the domains of the "Great Cham" or some other imagined potentate
of "Ormus or of Ind." Out of that stage of discovery and geographical con-
ception grew that myth of "the Straits of Anian," whose ghost still walked the
waters of the Pacific until the voyages of the closing decade of the Eighteenth
103
104 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Century at last laid that persistent ghost to rest. Not till Roald Amundsen,
the Scandinavian navigator of our own day, did any keel of human construction
actually solve the problem of the "Northw^est passage." The myth of Anian came
into existence only eight years after the landing of Columbus on San Salvador.
For in 1500 Caspar Cortereal, a Portuguese in the service of Spain, entered a
great inland water, presumably that later known as Hudson's Bay, and upon
his return proclaimed that he had penetrated the screen of islands and had
actually reached the Asiatic shores.
THE "era of liars"
More than a hundred years later, during the "era of liars," two veritable
Munchausens, who rejoiced in the names of Maldonado and Bartolome de
Fonte, told most seemingly veracious tales of their actually passing through
inlets of the sea and thus completely solving the mystery of the Northwest
Passage. Fonte asserted that he sailed in 1640 by way of the Californias up the
Western Coast to latitude 53° and there found a great river which he called
Rio de los Reyes. Up this river he made his way to a great lake of such beauty
that he named it Lake Belle. On the south side of that lake, he asserted, was a
large native city called Conasset. Pursuing his course eastward from that lake
he reached still another to which he applied his own name. Still further this
lake debouched into a strait to which, in honor of one of his captains, he gave
the name of Ronquillo. From this strait the explorers made their way, accord-
ing to their narrative, to the Atlantic or to an arm of that ocean. To add to
the verisimilitude and we might add in the language of 1918, to the camouflage
of it — Fonte still further relates that upon his entrance to the ocean he dis-
covered a "Great ship, where there had never been one before, and upon board-
ing it, found there only an old man and a youth who told him that they came
from the town called Boston in New England. On the following day came the
captain and the owner, the latter of whom was a 'fine gentleman and major-
general of the largest colony in New England,' called Maltechusetts." Fonte
had an exchange of courtesies with these New Englanders, after which he
returned by the Rio de los Reyes to the Pacific. Meanwhile his lieutenant,
Bernardo, had followed another river to a lake in latitude 61° which he called
Valasco, and rom it he, with his party, went in canoes as far as latitude 78°
where the land still trended north and ice rested upon it.
The story of Maldonado was given with the same appearance of candor and
accuracy as that of Fonte. Maldonado presented to the Council of the Indies
in 1609, a narrative of a voyage which he claimed to have made in 1588 from
Lisbon through the islands north of America to the Pacific. The voyage is all
blocked out and described with much particularity. The navigator outlines a
course lying mainly along the parallel of 60° North latitude, a total distance
of 1,810 leagues, at the west end of which course he discovers a strait which
he calls the strait of Anian. That strait, according to Maldonado, "appears,
according to ancient tradition, to be that named by geographers, in their maps,
the Strait of Anian ; and if so, it must be a strait having Anian on one side and
America on the other."
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 105
Having emerged from the strait they sailed down the coast of America
to latitude 55°, but were at such a distance from the shore as to be unable to-
mark any particular point. Yet they were sure that the land was inhabited
by reason of the "smoke rising up in many places." Maldonado decided that
the country must belong to Tartary or Cathaia, and "that at the distance of a
few leagues from the coast must be the famed city of CamboUi, the metropolis-
of Tartary." He declares that they knew the water to be the South Sea, where
are situated Japan, China, the Mollucas, India, New Guinea, and the land dis-
covered by Captain Quiras, with all the coast of New Spain and Peru. The
strait of Anian was, according to the description, fifteen leagues in length, and
could easily be passed with a tide lasting six hours; "for those tides are very
rapid." The entrance on the north side, which this party claimed to have passed
through, was less than half a quarter of a league in width and on each side
were ridges of steep rock, that on the Asiatic side being so steep, even over-
hanging, that nothing falling from the summit could reach the base. Maldonado-
found the entrance so narrow that it could be easily defended by proper bas-
tions. And that, it may be said in passing, was a great point with the Span-
iards. For they determined by all means in their power to keep out other Euro-
peans from the South Sea. Even as early as the time of Philip II about 1570,.
it was proposed, according to Alcedo, to cut a canal through the Isthmus of
Panama, but when the project was brought before the Council of the Indies,
it was represented to the King that such an undertaking would be of great
danger to the monarchy. The monarch therefore forbade any one, on pain of
death, from ever even proposing such a project. But, of course, when the
Dutch mariners, Lemaire and Van Shouten, in 1616, doubled Cape Horn and
disclosed the vast expanses from the southern point of America into the Ant-
arctic seas it became obvious that there was no use of fortifying either Panama
or Strait of Anian.
Maldonado further declares that while his squadron lay at anchor in the
southern end of that strait from the beginning of April to the middle of June,
a large vessel entered from the South Sea for the purpose of passing the strait.
First putting his own forces in a position of defence he found that the new-
comers were friendly and willing to trade. The greater part of their merchan-
dise was discovered to consist of articles similar to those manufactured in
China, such as brocades, silks, porcelains, feathers, precious stones, pearls and
gold. Maldonado believed the crew of the new vessel to be Hanseatics. All'
that we can say with certainty is that we have the narrative, but of whether to-
give credence to all or to nothing, deponent sayeth not.
By far the most interesting as well as inherently most probable of the
romantic voyages of that period is that of Juan de Fuca. This voyage is sup-
posed to have occurrred in 1592, just one hundred years after Columbus. The
manner of its incorporation into the jetsam and flotsom of ocean literature was-
in this wise. In the historical and geographical work by Samuel Purchas
published in 1625 and entitled "The Pilgrims," a collection of ocean discoveries,
is included a contribution headed "A Note Made by Michael Lock the Elder,
touching the Strait of Sea, commonly called Fretum Anian, in the South Sea,
through the Northwest Passage of Meta Incognita." In this Michael Lock
106 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
^describes his meeting at Venice in 1596, an old man known as Juan de Fuca, but
properly named Apostolos Valerianos, a Greek by nation and "an ancient pilot
<of ships." This old man declared that he had been in the service of Spain forty
years in the West Indies and that he was one of the victims of the capture in
1587 of the galleon Santa Anna by the English Cavendish, losing sixty thousand
ducats of his own goods. Subsequently, according to his story, he was sent to
cexplore the western coast of America with instructions to discover and fortify
the Strait of Anian, that the English might not pass through it into the South
•Sea.
His first quest proving unsuccessful, he went again in 1792, in a small
caravel. On that voyage he followed a course west and northwest along the
.coast of Mexico and California to latitude 47°. There the story continues: —
"finding that the land trended north and northeast, with a broad inlet of sea,
•between 47° and 48° of latitude, he entered thereinto, sailing therein more than
twenty days, and found that land trending still sometime northwest and north-
-east and north and also east and southeastward, and very much broader sea
■than was at the said entrance, and he passed by divers islands in that sailing ;
and, at the entrance of this said strait, there is, on the northwest coast thereof,
a great headland or island, with an exceedingly high pinnacle or spired rock,
like a pillar, thereupon." Further on in the narration it is stated that "being
■entered thus far into the North Sea already, and, finding. the sea wide enough
everywhere, and to be about thirty or forty leagues wide in the mouth of the
straits, where he entered, he thought he had now well discharged his ofiice ;
and that, not being armed to resist the force of the savage people that might
^happen, he therefore set sail, and returned to Acapulco."
Although the location of the strait described by the old Greek pilot is given
■as between 47° and 48°, one degree too far south, and although it is not pos-
sible to follow precisely the various turns in the course or to identify exactly
the "high pinnacle or spired rock, like a pillar thereupon," nevertheless there
is so much of a general resemblance to the location which Meares. the English
navigator two hundred years later distinguished by the fine-sounding appellation
of the Straits of Juan de Fuca upon, the northwest corner of our good state
of Washington, that we can only note the strangeness of the coincidence, if
that is all that it is, and to cherish the hope that in reality more than three cen-
turies ago Juan de Fuca himself did actually view that wondrous archipelago
and thread the "Inland Passage" clear to the northern tip of what we know as
Vancouver Island, where being in the illimitable expanses of the Pacific he
really believed that he had entered the Atlantic and had found the long-sought
"Strait of Anian." At any rate the story is such a fine one that, if not true, it
XDught to be.
Fascinating as is the story of the gradual movement of discovery from
Mexico and Tehuantepec northward along the coast of the Califomias, the
scope of this volume does not permit us to moor our bark upon the shore of
Montalvos's "Island of California on the right hand of the Indies very near the
'terrestrial Paradise." The inhabitants of our favored sister state to the south,
rising out of the purple mists of historic romance and of the purple seas and
•enchanted airs of that belt of the Pacific, are already sufficiently assured that
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY , 107
the Golden State is not only near the "terrestrial Paradise" but is the very
sum and substance of all Paradises joined, to need none of our humble assistance
in exalting their home land. We can pause in passing only to say that following
the gorgeous age of Cortez and Balboa and Ulloa and Alarcon came that
curious and even pathetic era which has done so much to provide material for
the present age of a distinctive era of California literature, the Age of the
Padres.
There were, in fact, two eras of missions — one that of Salvatierra and his
associates, at Lareto, in Lower California, at the close of the Seventeenth
Century, and the other that of seventy years later, in which Father Juni-
pero Serra was the central figure and as a result of which missions and
presidios and actual settlements took possession of those fair valleys where
the glorious cities of American California, San Diego, Los Angeles, San Jose,
Monterey and San Francisco link the lines of Padres with those of modern
nation-makers. But while that unique era of Spanish California was in process
of growth, explorers of the Spanish Main were turning their prows northward
to solve the still baffling mystery of the Northwest Passage. Aside from those
whom we have denominated as belonging to the "Age of Liars," there were
many whose voyages hold an honored place in authentic annals. In fact, long
before any Padre set forth with crucifix and rosary to save the souls of the
native Calif ornian's, Cabrillo and Ferrelo had glided through the northern fogs
to a point which they reported as latitude 44°, though the judgment of his-
torians is that it was probably not north of Cape Mendocino. In 1602 and 1603
another pair of the great mariners made their way up the California coast.
These were Vizcaino and Aguilar. The latter, separated by storm from his
principal, reached, as he claimed, latitude 43°, and there he discovered a great
river, January 19, 1603. Much discussion has arisen as to whether this could
have been the Columbia. It is the only really great river on the coast of
Oregon, but it is over three degrees too far north for the Rio de Aguilar, as
that supposed river became named on Spanish maps. But observations were
not very accurately made in those times, nor very correctly reported. So it is
quite within the bounds of possibility that the great "River of the West" might
be justly known as Aguilar.
RUSSIA WAKES UP
After the time of Aguilar a great lull in Spanish, English and French
explorations ensued for a century and a half. This lull was due to the stupend-
ous wars of the Seventeenth Century, involving all western Europe. But while
western Europe was thus negligent of the Pacific shore of America, a new
claimant entered the field from the north. The "Colossus of the North,"
Russia, under the bold genius of Peter the Great, had started on her great
march to warm water and open ports. Part of the stupendous conception of
that creator of modem Russia was to acquire North America by moving east-
ward and southward. Siberia was the first fruit of the eastward expansion.
This, too, like the acquirement of California by Spain, is another story and
cannot be related here. Suffice it to say that with the entrance of this new
champion into the lists. North America, and particularly Oregon, became the
108 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
prize of contest between four great European powers, Spain, England, Russia
and France, the last, however, not playing the same role as the others.
The name Oregon, like that of California and Idaho — all sonorous and
appropriate names — has hidden and mysterious sources. First appearing in the
work of Jonathan Carver soon after the Revolutionary War, and a few years
later made familiar to the reading public in the sounding lines of Bryant's
"Thanatopsis" — "or lose thyself in the continuous woods where there rolls the
Oregon and hears no sound save his own dashings" — it had come to be a lure
to the navigators of the four great nations named above. An impression of
some great "River of the West" or "Rio de los Reyes," or "Rio de Aguilar"
had become planted in the minds of the explorers of the Eighteenth Century.
It is evident that there were many unrecorded voyages along our western
coast. We have the romantic tale of the "beeswax ship" on the Oregon coast,
near Tillamook, as one example. The wax is actually there, and large amounts
have been taken from it. Some believed for a time that it was sort of a
natural wa.x or paraffine, but the discovery of a bee in a cake of it, and also
the existence in some cakes of the sacred letters I. H. S. make clear that it
is real wa.x. It is probable that the wax was the cargo of some wrecked ship
sent by the Padres of California to found a mission in the North, and that
the wax was intended for candles. As another example of these unrecorded
voyages we have the "treasure ship" at the foot of Nekahni Mountain, a
regular Parnassus of Indian mythology. According to this story, a group of
Indians, gathered on the grassy slopes of the sacred mountain, looking toward
the ocean, saw approaching what at first they supposed to be an immense bird.
While they watched in secret they saw that the bird was a big boat, and that
it came to a halt in the ocean some distance from the land, and that from it
was proceeding a small boat. In this were several men and with them a black,
whom they supposed to be some sort of a goblin or spook. The men in the
boat landed, dug a hole in the ground at the foot of the mountain, and there
they killed the black man and threw him into the hole. Then they carried
from their boat a big chest which they put in the same hole. Covering it all
carefully they left the deposit and rowed away in their boat to the ship. Soon
the sails were shaken out and the vessel soon disappeared from view. It is
a fact that at the point which Indian tradition assigns for the location of the
chest and the "spook," there are certain arrows and pointers graven in the
rock. In recent years the whole place has been dug over by treasure hunters,
some even invoking mediumistic guidance to the location, but no iron-bound
and rusted chest, with its diamond necklaces and golden crucifixes and tar-
nished Spanish doubloons, has yet rewarded the search. Still another story
comes to us from a little farther north, the most complete in its original
sources of any. This was derived by Prof. Franz Boas of the Smithsonian
Institution from Charlie Cultee, an old Indian of Bay Center, in Willapa
Harbor. The substance of it comes also from other sources. According to
this tale, one afternoon in strawberry time a group of Indians at a point
about two miles south of the mouth of the Columbia River saw, far out in the
ocean, a great object slowly drawing near the shore. In the morning an old
woman went down toward the beach and saw this same big object in the surf
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 109
at the edge of the shore. Now this old woman had been greatly bereaved some
years before by the death of her son. According to Charlie Cultee, "she wailed
a whole year and then she stopped." She hastened to the shore with the
idea that she might hear something of her son. While she was gazing with
awe and fear two creatures resembling bears but standing up, came out on the
'"thing." They looked like men except that they were covered with hair of a
light color. They stretched out their hands to the woman and signified that
they wished something to drink. The old woman, seeing that they indeed looked
and moved like men, but thinking that they must be of those told of in the
■'Ecannum Tales," fled in great fear to the village. When her tale was told
the inhabitants hastened to the shore and discovered that the "thing" was
indeed a huge canoe with trees driven into it. Also, they found that the two
creatures like bears had gone ashore, made a fire and were holding grains
of corn (or they afterwards found them to be) in a kettle over the fire. The
grains were popping around very rapidly. The Indians seem to have been
greatly impressed with this popcorn, and, according to Professor Boas, that
feature of the story is found in all the various versions. The Indians brought
water for the two strangers, and by examining their hands and taking off their
clothes and seeing their white skins, discovered that they were indeed men.
But while the mystery was thus being solved the ship caught fire in some
way, and after burning fiercely for a time was entirely consumed. Or, as
Charlie Cultee expressed it, "it burned up just like fat." Mr. Silas Smith,
who lived a long time at Astoria and whose mother was an Indian woman,
stated in his narrative that the Indians used for these men a word, "Tlohonipts,"
meaning "Those who drift ashore," and that that name afterwards became
applied to all Whites indiscriminately.
By the burning of the ship the Indians got a huge quantity of iron and
copper. This was of the utmost value for knives and chisles and axes. Best
of all, one of the men knew how to make those implements. He was in great
demand, and strife arose between the Clatsops and Chinooks and Wahkiakums,
and even the far-off Chehalees, as to which should have him. He finally was
allowed to make a house of his own on the south side of the river. Some have
undertaken to identify his location with Lake Culleby, on the edge of the high
timber land, near the present Gearhart Park. This iron-worker's name was
Konapee. According to the story, he and his companion, after living a long
time there and having Indian women, tried to get away southward and were
never heard of afterwards. A narration fitting curiously into this story is
found in Franchere's narrative (by Gabriel Franchere, one of the Astor party
of 1810), to the effect that Franchere saw in 1814, at the Cascades, an old man
called Soto, who stated that his father was a white man, a Spaniard, who
was wrecked on the Oregon coast at the mouth of the Columbia. Silas Smith
stated that his mother knew, in 1830, an old woman who was a daughter of
Konapee or Soto, whom Mr. Smith believed to be the same person. From
this data it was conjectured by H. S. Lyman, in his history of Oregon, page
172, Volume I, that the date when Konapee was cast upon the shore was about
1725. One interesting collateral fact with the iron work of Konapee is that
when authentic discoveries were made along the Oregon coast the Indians
110 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
seemed to be entirely familiar with iron implements, though not having many^
and hence very eager to get them. In the account of Cook's voyages it is
stated that not even cannon seemed to surprise the Indians on the coast of
Nootka.
Such may be looked on as the general view of the prehistoric or legendary
age of Northwestern history. That age blends in a more or less vague manner
with the early narratives like those of Aguilar and Vizcaino and the later
authentic age of Heceta, Cook, Gray, and Vancouver, in the later Eighteenth
Century. The author of this volume has written for an earlier work ("The
Columbia River") a narrative of that stage of history from which he derives
the remainder of this chapter.
"This new movement of Pacific exploration, destined to continue with
no cessation to our own day, was ushered in by Spain. There was even yet
much vitality in the fallen mistress of the world. Impelled by both religious
zeal and hope of material gain, the immigration of 1769 went forth from
La Paz to San Diego and Monterey. That inaugurated the singular and
poetic, in some aspects even beautiful, history of Spanish California, an era
which has provided so much of romance and poetry for literature in the
California of our own times. Tlie march of events had made it plain to the
Spanish government that, if it was to retain a hold on the Pacific Coast, it
must bestir itself. Russia, England, and France, released in a measure from
the pressure of European struggles, were fitting out expeditions to resume
the arrested efforts of the Sixteenth Century. It seemed plain also that colonial
America was going to be an active rival on the seas. And well may it have so
seemed, for, in the sign of the Yankee sailor, the conquest was to be made.
Spain's opportunity
But just at that important juncture a most favoring condition arose for
Spain. The government of England precipitated the struggle of the Amer-
ican Revolution. France soon joined to strike her island rival a deadly blow by
assisting in the liberation of the colonies. For the time, Spain had nearly a
clear field for Pacific discovery, so far as England and France were concerned.
As for Russia, the danger was more imminent. Russia had, indeed, begun to
look in the direction of Pacific expansion a long time prior to the Spanish
immigration to California. That vast monarchy, transformed by the genius
of Peter the Great, had stretched its arms from the Baltic to the Aleutian
archipelago, and had looked from the frozen seas of Siberia to the open Pacific
as a fairer field for expansion. ^Many years elapsed, however, before Peter's
great designs could be fulfilled. Not till 1741 did Vitus Behring thread the
thousand islands of Sitka and gaze upon the glaciated crest of Mount St.
Elias. And it was not till thirty years later that it became understood that
the Bay of Avatcha was connected by the open sea with China. In 1771 the
first cargo of furs was shipped directly from Avatcha to Canton. Then the
vastness of the Pacific Ocean was first comprehended. Then it was first under-
stood that the same waters which lashed the frozen ramparts of Kamchatka
encircled the coral islands of the South Sea and roared against the stormy
barriers of Cape Horn.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 111
The Russians had not found the Great River, though it appears that
Behring, in 1771, had gone as far south as latitude 46°, just the parallel of
the mouth of the Columbia. But he was so far off the coast as not to see it-
Three Spanish voyages followed in rapid succession; that of Perez in 1774,
of Heceta in 1775, and of Bodega in 1779. The only notable things in connec-
tion with the voyage of Perez were his discovery of Queen Charlotte's Island,
with the sea-otter furs traded by the natives, the first sight of that superb groupi
of mountains which we now call the Olympic, but which the Spaniards named
ihe Sierra de Santa Rosalia, and finally the fine harbor of Nootka on Vancouver
Island, named by Perez Port San Lorenzo, for years the center of the fur
trade and the general rendezvous of ships of all nations. But no river was
found.
With another year a still completer expedition was fitted out, Bruno-
Heceta being commander and Francisco de la Bodega y Quadra, second in,
command. This voyage was the most important and interesting thus far m
the history of the Columbia River exploration. For Heceta actually found the
Great River, so long sought and so constantly eluding discovery. On June
10, 1775, Heceta passed Cape Mendocino and entered a small bay just north-
ward. There he entered into friendly relations with the natives and took
solemn possession of the country in the name of his Catholic Majesty of
Spain. Sailing thence northward, he again touched land just south of the-
Straits of Fuca, but there he met disaster at the ill-omened point subsequently
named Destruction Island. For there his boat, landing for exploration, was
set upon by the savage inhabitants, and the entire boat-load murdered. Moving
southward again, on August 15, in latitude 46° ICK, Heceta found himself
abreast of some great river. Deciding that this must be indeed the mysterious;
Strait of Fuca, or the long concealed river of the other ancient navigators,,
he made two efforts to enter, but the powerful current and uncertain depths-
deterred him, and he at last gave up the effort and bore away for Monterey.
Three additional names were bestowed uppn the river at this time. Thinking
the entrance a bay, Heceta named it, in honor of the day, Ensenada de Asun-
cion. Later it was more commonly known as Ensenada de Heceta, while the
Spanish charts designated the river as Rio de San Roque. The name of Cabo-
de Frondoso (Leafy Cape) was bestowed upon the low promontory on the
south, now known as Point Adams, while upon the picturesque headland on-
the north, which we now designate as Cape Hancock, the devout Spaniards
conferred the name of Cabo de San Roque, August 16, being the day sacred
to that saint.
heceta's account
The original account given by Heceta is so interesting that we insert
it here :
"On the 17th day of August I sailed along the coast to the forty-sixth
degree, and observed that from the lat. 47° 4' to that of 46° 10', it runs ire
the angle of 18° of the second quadrant, and from that latitude to 46° 4', in
the angle of 12 degrees of the same quadrant; the soundings, the shore, the
wooded character of the country, and the little islands, being the same as oru
the preceding days.
112 HISTORY OF YAKIMA .VALLEY
"On the evening of this day I discovered a large bay, to which I gave the
name Assumption Bay and a plan of which will be found in this parallel. Its
latitude and longitude are determined according to the most exact means
afforded by theory and practice. The latitudes of the two most prominent
capes of this bay are calculated from the observations of this day.
"Having arrived opposite this bay at six in the evening, and placed the
ship nearly midway beween the two capes, I sounded and found bottom in four
brazas (nearly four fathoms). The currents and eddies were so strong that,
notwithstanding a press of sail, it was difficult to get clear of the northern cape,
towards which the current ran, though its direction was eastward in conse-
quence, of the tide being at flood. These currents and eddies caused me to be-
lieve that the place is the mouth of some great river, or of some passage to an-
other sea. Had I not been certain of the latitude of this bay, from my observa-
tions of the same day, I might easily have believed it to be the passage discov-
ered by Juan de Fuca, in 1592, which is placed on the charts between the 47th
and the 48th degrees ; where I am certain no such strait exists ; because I an-
chored on the 14th day of July midway between these latitudes, and carefully
examined everything around. Notwithstanding the great difference between
this bay and the passage mentioned by De Fuca, I have little difficulty in con-
ceiving they may be the same, having observed equal or greater differences in
the latitudes of other capes and ports on this coast, as I will show at the proper
time; and in all cases latitudes thus assigned are higher than the real ones.
"I did not enter and anchor in this port, which in my plan I suppose to be
formed by an island, notwithstanding my strong desire to do so; because, hav-
ing consulted with the second captain, Don Juan Perez, and the pilot, Don
Cristoval Re villa, they insisted I ought not to attempt it, as, if we let go the
anchor, we should not have men enough to get it up, and to attend to the other
operations which would be thereby necessary. Considering this, and also, that
in order to reach the anchorage I should be obliged to lower my long boat (the
only boat I had) and to man it with at least fourteen of the crew, as I could
not manage with fewer, and also as it was then late in the day, I resolved to
put out; and at the distance of three leagues I lay to. In the course of that
night I experienced heavy currents to the southwest, which made it impossible
to enter the bay on the following morning, as I was far to leeward. These cur-
rents, however, convinced me that a great quantity of water rushed from this
bay on the ebb of the tide.
"The two capes which I name in my plan. Cape San Roque and Cape
Frondoso, lie in the angle of 10° of the third quadrant. They are both faced
with red earth and are of little elevation.
"On the 18th I observed Cape Frondoso, with another cape, to which I
gave the name of Cape Falcon, situated in the latitude of 45° 43', and they lay
at an angle of 22° of the third quadrant, and from the last mentioned cape I
traced the coast running in the angle of 5° of the second quadrant. This land
is mountainous, but not very high nor so well wooded as that lying between the
latitudes of 48° 30' and 46°. On sounding I found great difference: at a dis-
tance of seven leagues I got bottom at 84 brazas ; and nearer the coast I some-
times found no bottom; from which I am inclined to believe there are reefs or
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 113
shoals on these coasts, which is also shown by the color of the water. In some
places the coast presents a beach, in others, it is rocky.
"A flat-topped mountain, which I named the Table, will enable any navi-
gator to know the position of Cape Falcon without observing it; as it is in the
latitude of 45° 28', and may be seen at a great distance, being somewhat ele-
vated."
It may be added that the Cape Falcon of Heceta was the bold elevation
fronting the sea, known now as Tillamook Head, while the Table Mountain was
doubtless what we now call Nekahni Mountain, both points especially the
scenes of Indian myth.
ACTUAL DISCOVERY OF THE COLUMBIA
Such was the actual discovery of the Columbia River, and as such the
Spaniards justly laid claim to Oregon. Their treaty with the United States in
1819 was the formal conveyance of their claims to us. Nevertheless Heceta
only half discovered the river. It seems very strange that with the all-important
object of two centuries' search before him, he should so readily have succumbed
to the fear of the powerful outstanding current. But the Spaniards were not
in general the patient and persistent students of the shores that the English
and Americans were. Their charts were in general worthless. Nevertheless
Spain came nearest "making good" of any of the European powers. In 1779
Bodega and Arteaga sailed far north and sighted a vast snow peak "higher
than Orizaba," which was doubtless St. Elias. In the same year Martinez and
DeHaro established themselves at Nootka. Subsequent voyages of Bodega,
Valdez, and Galiano, and their first circumnavigation of Vancouver Island
(named by them Quadra's Island, but by mutual courtesy and good-will of the
British and Spanish rivals, designated Vancouver's and Quadra's Island), gave
them a clear title to the Pacific Coast of North America from latitude 60° to
Mexico.
But that is another story. What of the Great River? In the very year of
the declaration of American independence, the most elaborate expedition yet
fitted out for western discovery, set forth from England in command of that
Columbus of the Eighteenth Century, Captain James Cook. After nearly two
years of important movements in the Southern Hemisphere and among the
Pacific Islands, Cook turned to that goal of all nations, the coast of Oregon.
But the same singular fatality which had baffled many of the explorers thus
far, attended this most skillful navigator and best equipped squadron thus far
seen on Pacific waters. For Cook passed and repassed the near vicinity of both
the Straits of Fuca and the Columbia River, but without finding either. Killed
by the treacherous natives of Hawaii in 1778, Cook left a great name, a more
intelligent conception of world geography than was known before, and greatly
strengthened claims by Great Britain to the ownership of pivotal points of the
Pacific. Of all the great English navigators. Cook is perhaps best entitled to
join the grand chorus that sings the Songs of Seven Seas. But he did not see
the Great River of the West. What had become of it? After the fleeting
vision which it accorded to Heceta, it seemed to have gone into hiding.
(8)
114 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
But a new set of motives came into play immediately after Cook's voyage.
The two ships, the "Resolution" and "Discovery," took with them to China
a quantity of furs from Nootka. A few years earlier, as previously stated, the
Russian fur-trade from Avatcha to China sprang up at once. A new regime
dawned in Chinese and East India trade. Gold, silver and jewels had not thus
far rewarded the search of explorers. They were reserved for our later days
of need. But the fur trade was as good as gold. The North Pacific Coast,
already interesting, assumed a new importance in the eyes of Europeans. The
"struggle for possession" was on. The ships of all nations converged upon
the fabled Strait of Anian and River of Oregon. English, Dutch, French, Por-
tuguese, Spanish, Americans, began in the decade of the eighties to crowd to the
land where the sea-otter, beaver, seal and many other of the most profitable furs
could be obtained for a trifle. The dangers of trading and the chances of dis-
ease were great, but the profits of success were yet greater.
FUR TRADE BEGINS
The fur trade began to take the place of the gold hunt as a matter of inter-
national strife. The manner in which our own country, weak and discordant
as its diiiferent members were when just emerging from the Revolutionary
War, entered the lists, and by the marvelous allotment of Fortune or the de-
sign of Providence, slipped in between the greater nations and secured the
prize of Oregon, is one of the epics of history, one which ought to have some
native Tasso or Calderon to celebrate its triumph.
Following quickly upon the conclusion of the American War, came a series
of British, French and Russian voyages, which gradually centered more partic-
larly about Vancouver Island and Nootka Sound. The British exceeded the
others in numbers and enterprise. Among them we find names now preserved
at many conspicuous points on the northern coast; as Portlock, Hanna, Dixon,
Duncan, and Barclay. The most notable of the French was La Perouse, who
was best equipped for scientific research of any one. A number of Russian
names appear at that period, most of which may yet be found upon the maps
of Alaska, as SchelikoiT, IsmylofiP, Betschareiif, Resanofif, Krusenstern, and
Baranofif.
But none of them set eyes on the river, and it seemed more mythical than
ever. As a result, however, of their various expeditions, incomplete though
they were, each nation followed the usual practice of claiming everj'thing in
sight, either in sight of the eye or the imagination, and demanded the whole
coast by priority of discovery.
Never did a geographical entity seem so to play the ignis fatitiis with the
world as did the river. Thirteen years elapsed from the discovery of the Rio
San Roque by Heceta before any one of the dozens who had meanwhile passed
up and down the coast, looked in again between the Cabo de Frondoso and the
Cabo de San Roque. Then there came on one negative and two positive discov-
eries, and the elusive stream was really found never to be lost again.
The negative discovery was that of Captain John Meares in 1788. Since
England afterwards endeavored to make the voyages of Meares an important
link in her chain of proof to the ownership of Oregon, it is worthy of some
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY , US
special attention. It happened in this wise. Meares came first to the coast of
Oregon in 1786, in command of the Nootka to trade for furs for the East India
Company. With the Nootka, was the Sea-Otter, in command of Captain Walter
Tipping. Both seem to have been brave and capable seamen. But disaster fol-
lowed on their track. For having sailed far up the coast, they followed the
Aleutian Archipelago eastward to Prince William's Sound. Separated on the
journey, the Nootka reached a safe haven, but her consort never arrived, nor
was she ever heard of more. The Nootka, after an Arctic winter of distress
and after losing a large part of the crew through the ravages of scurvy, aban-
doned the trade and returned to China. Discouraged by the outcome, the East
India Company abandoned the American trade and confined themselves hence-
forth to India.
But Meares, finding that the Portuguese had special privileges in the fur
trade and in the harbor of Nootka, entered into an arrangement with some
Portuguese traders whereby he went nominally as supercargo, but really as.
captain of the Felice, under the Portuguese flag. With her, sailed the "Iphi-
genia" with William Douglas occupying a place similar to that of Meares. In
estimating the subsequent pretensions of Great Britain, the student of history
may well remember that these two mariners, though Englishmen, were sail-
ing under the flag of Portugal.
Reaching again the coast of Oregon, Meares looked in, June 29, 1788, at
the broad entrance of an extensive strait which he believed to be the mythical
Strait of Juan de Fuca of two centuries earlier, but which he did not pause
to explore. He went on to Nootka, and then again turned his prow southward.
On July 5th, in lat. 46° 10', he perceived a deep bay which he considered at once to
be the object of his search. Essaying to enter, he found the water shoaling with
dangerous rapidity and a prodigious easterly swell breaking on the shore.
From the masthead it seemed that the breakers extended clear across the en-.
trance. With rather curious timidity for a bold Briton right on the eve of a
discovery for which all nations had been looking, Meares lost courage and
hauled out, attaching the name Deception Bay to the inlet and Cape Disap-
pointment to the northern promontory, the last a name still officially used.
Meares left as his final conclusion in the matter the following memoran-
dum: "We can now assert that no such river as that of St. Roque exists, as
laid down in the Spanish charts." In view of this statement of the case it
would certainly seem that he could not be accepted as a witness for English
discovery, even if the Portuguese flag had not been flying at his masthead.
After bestowing the name of Lookout upon the great headland christened
Cape Falcon by Heceta and known to us as Tillamook Head, Meares squared
away for Nootka, and there he spent a very profitable season in the fur trade.
THE COLUMBIA REDIVIVA
But into the harbor of Nootka that same year of 1788, there sailed the
ship of destiny, the Columbia Rediviva, in command of John Kendrick. With
the Columbia came the "Lady Washington," commanded by Robert Gray.
These were the advance guard of Yankee ships which the energies of our lib-
116 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
erated forefathers were sending forth as an earnest of the coming conquest of
Oregon by the universal Yankee nation.
Gray and Kendrick were engaged in the fur trade, and their energy and
intelligence made it speedily profitable. It took a long time and a long arm,
sure enough, in that day, to complete the great circuit of the outfitting, the
bartering, the transferring, the return trip and the final sale ; — three years in all.
The ship would be fitted out in Boston or New York with trinkets, axes,
hatchets, and tobacco, and proceed by the Horn to the coast of Oregon, — six
months or sometimes eight. Then up and down the coast, as far as known,
they would trade with natives for the precious furs, making a profit of a
thousand per cent, on the investment. Gray, on one occasion, got for an axe
a quantity of furs worth $8,000. The fur barter would take another six or
eight months. Then with hold packed with bales of furs, the ship would turn her
prow for Macao or Canton, six or eight months more. In China, the cargo
of furs would go out and a cargo of nankeens, teas, and silks go in, with a great
margin of profit at both ends. Then away again to Boston, there to sell the
proceeds of that three years' "round-up" of the seas for probably ten times the
entire cost of outfitting and subsistence. The glory, fascination, and gain of
the ocean were in it, and also its dangers. Of this sufficient witness is found
in vanished ships, murdered crews, storm, scurvy, famine, and war. But it was
a great age. Gray and Kendrick were as good specimens of their keen, facile,
far-sighted countrymen, as Meares and Vancouver were of the self-opinionated,
determined, yet withal manly and thorough Britons.
Among other pressing matters, such as looking out for good fur trade in
order to recoup the Boston merchants who had put their good money into the
venture, and looking out for the health of their crew, steering clear of the un-
charted reefs and avoiding the treacherous natives, Gray and Kendrick remem-
bered that they were also good Americans. They must see that the new Stars
and Stripes had their due upon the new coast.
The first voyage of the two Yankee skippers was ended and they set forth
for another round in 1791, but with ships exchanged. Gray commanding the
Columbia on this second voyage. The year 1792 was now come, and it was a
great year in the annals of Oregon, three hundred years from Columbus, two
hundred from Juan de Fuca. The struggle between England and Spain over
conflicting rights at Nootka, which at one time threatened war, had been set-
tled with a measure of amicability. As a commissioner to represent Great
Britain, Capt. George Vancouver was sent out, while Bodega y Quadra was
empowered to act in like capacity for Spain. Spaniards and Britons alike real-
ised that, whatever the Nootka treaty may have been, possession was nine points
of the law, and both redoubled their efforts to push discovery, and especially
to make the first complete exploration of the Straits of Fuca and the supposed
Great River. There were great names among the Spaniards in that year, some
of which still commemorate some of the most interesting geographical points,
as Ouimper, Maiaspina, Fidalgo, Camano, Elisa, Bustamente, Valdez and
Galiano. A list of British names now applied to many points, as Vancouver,
Puget, Georgia, Baker, Hood, Rainier, St. Helens, Whidby, Vashon, Town-
send, and others, attests the name-bestowing care of the British commander.
In going to Nootka as British commissioner, Vancouver was under instruc-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 117
tions to make the most careful examination of the coast, especially of the rivers
or any interoceanic channels, and thereby clear up the many conundrums oi
the ocean on that shore. With the best ship, the war sloop "Discovery," accom-
panied by the armed tender "Chatham," in command of Lieutenant W. R.
Broughton, and with the best crew and best general equipment yet seen on the
coast, it would have been expected that the doughty Briton would have found
all the important places yet unfound. That the Americans beat him in finding
the river and that the Spaniards beat him in the race through the Straits and
around Vancouver Island, may be regarded as due partly to a little British
obstinacy at a critical time, but mainly due to the appointment of the Fates.
On April 27th, Vancouver passed a "conspicuous point of land composed
of a cluster of hummocks, moderately high and projecting into the sea." This
cape was in latitude 46° 19', and Vancouver decided that here were doubtless
the Cape Disappointment and Deception Bay of Meares. In spite of the sig-
nificant fact that the sea here changed its color, the British commander was so
prepossessed with the idea that Meares must have decided correctly the nature
of the entrance (for how was it possible for an English sailor to be wrong and
a Spaniard right?) that he decided that the opening was not worthy of more
attention and passed on up the coast. So the English lost their second great
chance of being first to enter the river.
Two days later the lookout reported a sail, and as the ships drew together,
the newcomer was seen to be flying the Stars and Stripes. It was the "Colum-
bia Rediviva," Capt. Robert Gray, of Boston. In response to Vancouver's
rather patronizing queries, the Yankee skipper gave a summary of his log for
some months past. Among other things he stated that he had passed what
seemed to be a powerful river in latitude 46° 10', which for nine days he had
tried in vain to enter, being repelled by the strength of the current. He now
proposed returning to that point and renewing his efifort. Vancouver declined
to reconsider his previous decision that there could be no large river, and passed
on to make his very elaborate exploration of the Straits of Fuca and their con-
nected waters, and to discover to his great chagrin, that the Spaniards had fore-
stalled him in point of time.
The vessels parted. Gray sailed south and on May 10, 1792, paused abreast
of the same reflex of water where before for nine days he had tried vainly to
enter. The morning of the 11th dawned clear and favorable, light wind, gentle
sea, a broad, clear channel, plainly of sufficient depth. The time was now come.
The man and the occasion met. Gray seems from the first to have been ready
to take some chances for the sake of some great success. He always hugged
the shore closely enough to be on intimate terms with it. And he was ready
boldly to seize and use favoring circumstances. So, as laconically stated in his
log-book, he ran in with all sail set, and at two o'clock found himself in a
large river of fresh water, at a point about twenty miles from the ocean.
THE GEOGRAPHICAL SPHINX
The geographical Sphinx was answered. Gray was its cedipus, though
unlike the ancient Tlieban myth, there was no need that either the Sphinx of
the Oregon coast or its discoverer perish. The river recognized and welcomed
its master.
118 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
The next day the "Columbia" moved fifteen miles up the stream. Finding
that he was out of the channel, Gray stopped further progress and turned again
seaward. Natives, apparently friendly disposed, thronged in canoes round the
ship, and a large quantity- of furs was secured.
The river already bore many names, but Gray added another, and it was
the one that has remained, the name of his good ship "Columbia." Upon the
southern cape he bestowed the name of Adams, and upon the northern, the
name of Hancock. These also remain.
The great exploit was completed. The long-sought River of the West
was found, and by an American. The path of destiny for the new Republic of
the West was made secure. Without Oregon we probably would not have ac-
quired California, and without a Pacific Coast, the United States would inevit-
ably have been but a second-class power, the prey of European intrigue. The
vast importance of the issue then becomes clear. Gray's happy voyage, that
Yankee foresight and confidence in his seamanship and intuitive suiting of
times and conditions to results which marks the vital turning points of history
differentiate Gray's discovery from all others upon our Northwest coast.
As we view the matter now a century and more later, we can see that our
national destiny, and especially the vast part that we now seem at the point of
taking in world interests through the commerce of the Pacific, hung in the bal-
ance to a certain extent upon the stubborn adherence by Vancouver, the Briton,
to the preconceived opinion that there was no important river at the point
designated by his Spanish predecessor, and the contrasted readiness of the
American Gray to embrace boldly the chances of some great discovery. It is
true that the "Oregon Question" was not to be settled for several decades.
Much diplomacy and contention almost to the verge of war, were yet to come,
but Gray's fortunate dash, "with all sail set, in between the breakers to a large
river of fresh water," gave our nation a lead in the ultimate adjustment of the
case, which we never lost.
We have said that there was one negative discovery — that of Meares —
and two positive ones. Gray's was one of the two latter, and that of Broughton,
in command of the "Chatham" accompanying Vancouver, was the other.
On May 20th, the "Columbia Rediviva" — a most auspicious name— bade
adieu to the scene of her glory, and with the Stars and Stripes floating in
triumph at her mizzen mast, turned northward. Again the American captain
encountered Vancouver and narrated to him his discovery of the river. With
deep chagrin at his own failure in the two most important objects of discovery
in his voyage, the British commander directed Broughton to return to lat.
46° 10', enter the river, and proceed as far up as time allowed.
Accordingly, on October 21st, the companion ships parted at the mouth of
the river, the "Discovery" proceeding to Monterey, while the "Chatham"
crossed the bar, described by Broughton as very bad, and endeavored to ascend
the bay that strethced out beautiful and broad before them. But finding the
channel intricate and soundings variable, the lieutenant deemed it advisable to
leave the ship at a point which must have been about twenty miles from the
ocean, and to proceed thence in the cutter.
There is one thing observable in Vancouver's accounnt of this expedition
of Broughton, and that is first, his assumption that the lower part of the Colum-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 119
bia is a bay and that its true mouth is at a point above that reached by Gray;
and second, that the river is much smaller than it really is. It is hard to recon-
cile the language used in Broughton's report as given by Vancouver with the
supposition of candor and honesty. For while it is true that the lower part of
the river is of bay-like expanse from four to nine miles in width, yet it is en-
tirely fresh and has all river characteristics. One of the points especially made
by Gray was that he filled his casks with fresh water. Moreover, the bar is
entirely at the ocean limit. So completely does the river debouch into the
ocean, in fact, that in the great flood of 1894 the clams were killed on the ocean
beaches for a distance of several miles on either side of the mouth of the river.
THE SIZE OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER
As to the size of the river, Broughton gives its width repeatedly as half
a mile or a jquarter of a mile, whereas it is at almost no point below the Cas-
cades less than a mile in width, and a mile and a half is more usual. Broughton
expresses the conviction that it can never be used for navigation by vessels of
any size. In view of the vast commerce now constantly passing in and out,
the absurdity of that idea is and has been for years sufficiently exhibited. The
animus of the British explorers is obvious. By showing that the mouth of the
river was really an inlet of the sea, they hoped to lay a claim to British occu-
pancy as against Gray's discovery, and by belittling the size of the river they
hoped to save their own credit with the British Admiralty for having lost so
great a chance for first occupation.
Broughton ascended the river to a point near the modern town of Wash-
ougal. He bestowed British names after the general fashion, as Mount Hood,
Cape George, Vancouver Point, Puget's Island, Young's Bay, Menzies' Island
and Whidby's River. With true British assurance, he felt that he had "every
reason to believe that the subjects of no other civilized nation or state had
ever entered this river before; in this opinion he was confirmed by Mr. Gray's
sketch, in which it does not appear that Mr. Gray either saw or was ever within
five leagues of its entrance." Therefore he "took possession of the river, and
the country in its vicinity, in his Britannic Majesty's name."
In view of all the circumstances of Gray's discovery, and his impartation
of it to the British, this language of Vancouver has a coolness, as John Fiske
remarks, which would be very refreshing on a hot day.
On November 10th, the "Chatham" crossed the bar outward bound for
Monterey to join the "Discovery."
Such, in rapid view, were the essential facts in the long and curiously com-
plicated finding of our River. We see the foundation of the subsequent con-
tention between Great Britain and the United States.
The important explorations of Puget Sound, the Gulf of Georgia, and the
related waters upon the northwestern comer of the state of Washington were
conducted by British, Americans and Spaniards. But though many navigators
of those nations participated in that great task, the British may justly claim
the greater credit for extensive and continuous discovery. By the close of the
century it may be stated that the coast of Oregon was fully known, and the
ifirst era of discovery was ended.
CHAPTER IV
EXPLORATIONS BY LAND
explorations by land — louisiana purchase lewis and clark expedition
indians' vapor baths measuring the rivers — start on return journey
— Jefferson's tribute to captain lewis
The successive acquisitions of territory by which the United States came
to embrace the whole breadth of the continent may almost be said to constitute
our national history. Practically every great issue of American politics, —
constitutional interpretation, slavery, tariff, money, interstate commerce, rail-
road legislation. Civil War, — has been in some way connected with the poli-
cies pertaining to the acquisition and subsequent government of new territory.
John Fiske has pointed out three great methods in history of controlling
and governing territory : — first, conquest without incorporation, Oriental ; sec-
ond, conquest with incorporation and assimilation, Roman ; third, acquisition
with incorporation, assimilation, and representation, Teutonic. The last word
is not a good one. If Fiske had written that now he would probably have writ-
ten Anglo-Saxon. But we may venture to add a fourth to this list, i. e., acquisi-
tion by discovery or honest purchase, with participation in government of new
parts on equal terms with old, American. We have not absolutely adhered to
that great principle at all times, but the exceptions, as in case of Hawaii, Porto
Rico, Panama and the Philippine Islands, have been short-lived or will be, and
the whole tendency and overwhelming policy and intention of the American
people is to recognize and maintain peaceful additions of territory whose inhab-
itants may, as soon as possible, become equal participants in the making and
executing of laws and in acquiring their part of the national domain and in the
other benefits and opportunities which may accrue from the democratic federal
system of the Union.
In many respects the action of Maryland in 1777 upon the submission to the
Thirteen States by the Continental Congress of the proposed Articles of Con-
federation was the most important event of that stage of history, next to the
Declaration of Independence. Marj'land refused to ratify those articles unless
the states holding western lands would cede them to the Federal union. In
spite of bitter feeling in Virginia, New York, Pennsylvania, Massachusetts and
Connecticut, which held conflicting claims in the Ohio and Great Lakes regions,
little Maryland gallantly stuck to her ultimatum with the result that those land-
claiming states gradually accepted the situation, and the United States of
America became the land owner of the continent. That event created the
National Government. That became the strong bond of union. By reason of
the nationalization of the land svstem, the immigrants to the new lands west of
120
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 12E
the Alleghenies, the state makers of the first era after Independence, became
Americans, not Virginians, New Yorkers, New Englanders, or Carohnians,.
By reason of that sentiment, planted deep in the minds of the builders of the
Lake states, of the Ohio, and the upper Mississippi, the Union withstood the
shock of civil war and still stands square to the world, battling now for the
principle of self-government for the world, and having demonstrated that a
"nation conceived in liberty and dedicated to the proposition that all men are-
created equal" can "long endure."
THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE
Next to that first acquisition of territory by the newly created Union, came
both in time and importance the Louisiana Purchase. The subsequent acquisi-
tion of Texas, Oregon and California was the logical consummation of the
earlier. With these vast regions extending to the Western Ocean the Ameri-
cans outgrew their earlier habit of thinking in terms of European politics and
began to think in terms of the American continent. We then became a real
people. It became evident by the Louisiana Purchase that the same type of
people were to march to the Pacific and build states along their road who had
already demonstrated the proposition, that "governments derive their just
powers from the consent of the governed." The author of those words had
seen more clearly perhaps than any other statesman of that era the world'
vision of a great American democracy, independent of Europe and yet by
reason of geographical position as well as political ideals and social aspirations
the natural mediator among peoples and the ultimate teacher and enlightener
of mankind. When, therefore, as a result of the political revolution of 1800
and the permanent establishment of the democratic conception in the leader-
ship of American politics, Thomas Jefferson found himself invested with the
enormous responsibility of framing policies and measures for the new era,
one of his foremost aims was to turn the face of the nation westward. Having
long entertained the idea that the true policy was to secure such posts of van-
tage beyond the Alleghenies as would lead by natural stages to the acquisition
of the countr>' beyond the Mississippi even to the Pacific, he was alert to seize-
any opening for pursuing that truly American policy. He did not have long to
wait. At the time of his inauguration the stupendous energy of the French
Revolution had become concentrated in that overpowering personality. Napo-
leon Bonaparte. Holding then the position of First Consul, but as truly the im-
perial master as when he placed the Iron Crown of the Lombards upon his own
head, "the man on horseback" perceived that a renewal of the great war was
inevitable and that Austria on land and England at sea were going to put metes
to his Empire if human power could do it. Nothing was more hateful ta
Napoleon than to let French America, or Louisiana, slip from his grasp. But
he had not the maritime equipment to defend it. England was sure to take it
and that soon. Monroe, the American envoy, was in Paris fully instructed by
President Jefferson what to do. All things were ready. The men and the
occasion met. The Louisiana Purchase was consummated. For less tham
three cents an acre a region now comprising thirteen states or parts of states,.
122 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
estimated at over 565,000,000 acres, equal in extent to all Europe outside of
Russia and Scandinavia, became part of the United States.
LEWIS AND CLARK EXPEDITION
When that great event w^as consummated and one of the milestones in the
world's progress upon the highway of universal democracy had been set for
good, the next step in the mind of Jefferson was to provide for the exploration
of the vast new land. The westward limits of Louisiana were not indeed de-
fined by the treaty of purchase otherwise than as the boundaries by which the
territory had been ceded by Spain to France, and those boundaries in turn were
defined only as those by which France had in 1763 ceded to Spjiin. Hence the
western boundary of Louisiana was indefinite, although subsequent agreements
and usages determined the boundary to be the crest of the Rocky Mountains as
far south as Texas. Jefferson seems to have thought that the entire continent
to the Pacific ought to be included in the exploration, for be saw also that the
destiny of his country required the ultimate union of Atlantic and Pacific
coasts, as well as the great central valley. From these conceptions and aims of
Jefferson sprang that most interesting and influential of all exploring expedi-
tions in our history, the Lewis and Clark Expedition from St. Louis up the
Missouri, across the Rocky Mountains, and down the Snake and Columbia
rivers to the Pacific Ocean.
Jefferson had contemplated such an expedition a long time. Even as far
back as December 4, 1783, in a letter to George Rogers Clark, he raised the
question of an exploration from the Mississippi to California. In 1792 he took
it up with the American Philosophical Society, and even then Meriwether
Lewis was eager to head such an expedition. In a message to Congress of
January 18, 1803, before the Louisiana Purchase, Jefferson developed the im-
portance of a thorough exploration of the continent even to the Western Ocean.
With his characteristic secrecy, Jefferson was disposed to mask the great design
of ultimate acquisition of the continent under the appearance of scientific re-
search. In a letter to Lewis of April 27, 1803, he says: — "The idea that you
are going to explore the Mississippi has been generally given out ; it satisfies
public curiosity and masks sufficiently the real destination." That real destina-
tion was of course the Pacific Ocean, and the fundamental aim was the con-
tinental expansion of the then crude and struggling Republic of the West.
Considering the momentous nature of the undertaking and the possibilities to
cover, it is curious and suggestive that Lewis had estimated the expense at
$2,500, and Jefferson called upon Congress for that amount of appropriation.
An explorer of the present would hardly expect to go outdoors on that scale
of expense. Jeffersonian simplicity vnth a vengeance!
The scope of this book does not permit any detailed account of the prepara-
tions or of the personnel of the party. Suffice it to say that the leader, Meri-
wether Lewis, and his lieutenant, William Clark, were men of energy, discre-
tion, courage, and the other necessary qualities for such an undertaking. While
not men of education or general culture (Clark could not even spell or com-
pose English correctly), they both had an abundance of common sense and in
preparation for their mission gained a hurried preparation in the essentials of
botany, zoology, and astronomy such as might enable them to observe and re-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 123
port intelligently upon the various objects of discovery and the distances and
directions traversed.
Jefferson's instructions to Captain Lewis give one an added respect for the
intelligence and broad hifmanity of the Great Democrat. Particularly did he
enjoin upon the leader of the party the wisdom of amicable relations with the
natives. The benevolent spirit of the President appears in his direction that
kine-pox matter be taken and that its use for preventing small-pox be explained
to the Indians. All readers of American history should read these instructions,
both for an estimate of Jeft'erson personally and for light on the conditions and
viewpoints of the times.
The number in the party leaving St. Louis was forty-five. But one death
occurred upon the whole jouniey, which lasted from May 14, 1804, to Septem-
ber 23, 1806. Never perhaps did another so extended and difficult expedition
suffer so little. And this was the more remarkable from the fact that there
was no physician nor scientific man with the party and that whatever was
needed in the way of treating the occasional sicknesses or acccidents must be
done by the Captains. While to their natural force and intelligence the party
owed a large share of its immunity from disaster, good fortune surely attendea
them. This seems the more noticeable when we reflect that this was the first
journey across a wilderness afterwards accentuated with every species of suf-
fering and calamity.
The members of the party were encouraged to preserve journals and
records to the fullest degree, and from this resulted a fullness of detail by a
number of the men as well as the leaders which has delighted generations of
readers ever since. And in spite of the fact that none of the writers had any
literary genius, these journals are truly fascinating, on account of the nature
of the undertaking and a certain glow of enthusiasm which invested with a
charm even the plain and homely details of the long journey.
The first stage of the expedition was from St. Louis, May 14, 1804, to a
point 1 ,600 miles up the Missouri, reached November 2d. There the party win-
tered in a structure which they called Fort Mandan. The location was on the
west bank of the Missouri opposite the present city of Pierre, South Dakota.
The journey had been made by boats at an average advance of ten miles a day.
The river, though swift and with frequent shoals, offered no serious impedi-
ments, even for a long distance above Fort Mandan.
After a long, cold winter in the country of the Mandans, the expedition
resumed its journey up the Missouri on April 7, 1805. Of the interesting de-
tails of this part of their course we cannot speak. Reaching the headwaters of
the Missouri on August 12th, they crossed that most significant spot, the Great
Divide. A quotation from the journal of Captain Lewis indicates the lively
sentiments with which they passed from the Missouri waters to those of the
Columbia: — "As they proceeded, their hope of seeing the waters of the Colum-
bia rose to almost painful anxiety ; when at the distance of four miles from the
last abrupt turn of the stream, they reached a small gap formed by the high
mountains which recede on either side, leaving room for the Indian road. From
the foot of one of the lowest of these mountains, which rises with a gentle
ascent for about half a mile, issued the remotest water of the Missouri. They
had now reached the hidden sources of that river which had never before
124 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
been seen by civilized man ; and as they quenched their thirst at the chaste and
icy fountain, — as they sat down by the brink of the little rivulet which yielded
its distant and modest tribute to the parent ocean — they felt themselves re-
warded for all their labors and difficulties. * * *• They found the descent
much steeper than on the eastern side, and at the distance of three-quarters of
a mile, reached a handsome bold creek of cold, clear water running to the west-
ward. They stopped to taste for the first time the waters of the Columbia."
After some very harassing and toilsome movements in that vast cordon
of peaks in which lie the cradles of the Missouri, Yellowstone, Snake, Clear-
water, and Bitter Root rivers — more nearly reaching the starvation point than
at any time on the trip — the party emerged upon a lofty height from which
their vision swept over a vast expanse of open prairie, in which it became
evident there were many natives and, as they judged, the near vicinity of the
great river, which, as they thought would carry them in short order to the
Western Ocean of their quest. They little realized that they were yet more
than six hundred miles from the edge of the continent. Descending upon the
plain they made their way to the Kooskooskee, now known as the Clearwater
River. As judged by Olin D. Wheeler in his invaluable book, "On the Trail
of Lewis and Clark," the explorers crossed from what is now Montana into
the present Idaho at the Lolo Pass, and proceeded thence down the broken
country between the North and Middle forks of the Kooskooskee, reaching the
junction on September 26th. The camp at that spot was called Canoe Camp.
There they remained nearly two weeks, most of them sick through overeating
after they had sustained so severe a fast in the savage defiles of the Bitter
Roots, and from the effects of the very great change in temperature from the
snowy heights to the hot valley below. At Canoe Camp they constructed boats
for the further prosecution of their journey. They left their thirty-eight horses
with three Indians of the Chopunnish or Pierced-nose tribe, or Nez Perce as we
now know them.
With their canoes they entered upon a new stage of their journey, one
easy and pleasant after the hardships of the mountains. Down the beautiful
Kooskooskee, then low in its autumn stage, they swept gaily, finding frequent
rapids, though none serious. The pleasant sounding name Kooskooskee, which
ought to be preserv-ed (though Clearwater is appropriate and sonorous) was
supposed by the explorers to be the name of the river. This it appears was a
misapprehension. The author has been told by a very intelligent Indian named
Luke, living at Kamiah, that the Indians doubtless meant to tell the white men
that the stream was Koos Koos, or water, water. Koos was, and still is, the Nez
Perce word for water. Luke stated that the Indians did not regularly have
names for streams, but only for localities, and referred to rivers as the water or
koos belonging to some certain locality.
After a prosperous descent of the beautiful and impetuous stream, for a
distance estimated by them at fifty-nine miles (considerably over-estimated)
the party entered a much larger stream coming from the south. This they un-
derstood the Indians to call the Kimooenim. They named it the Lewis in honor
of Captain Lewis. It was the great Snake River of our present maps. The
writer has been told by Mr. Thomas Beall of Lewiston, that the true Indian
name is Twelka, meaning Snake. The party was now at the present location
M^^^H|^HbM"'v
\( ^
..... \
I' i»(*"
THOMAS J. BEALL
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 125
of Lewiston and Clarkston, one of the most notable regions in the northwest
for beauty, fertiHty, and all the essentials of capacity for sustaining a high type
■civilized existence.
The party camped on the right bank just below the junction and that first
■camp of white men was nearly opposite both Lewiston and Clarkston of today.
They say that the Indians flocked from all directions to see them. The scanti-
ness of their fare had brought them to the stage of eating dog-meat which they
.say excited the ridicule of the natives. The Indians gave them to understand
that the southern branch was navigable about sixty miles ; that not far from
the junction it received a branch from the south, and at two days' march up a
larger branch called Pawnashte, on which a chief resided who had more horses
than he could count. The first of these must be the Asotin unless indeed they
referred to the Grande Ronde which is the first large stream, but is at a consid-
erable distance from the junction. The Pawnashte must have been the Sal-
mon, the largest tributary of the Snake. The Snake at the point of the camp
■of the explorers was discovered to be about three hundred yards wide. The
party noticed the greenish blue color of the Snake, while the Kooskooskee was
as clear as crystal
The Indians at this point are described as of the Chopunnish or Pierced-
nose nation, the latter of those names translated by the French voyagers into
the present Nez Perce. According to the observations of the party the men
were in person stout, portly, well-looking; the women small, with good fea-
tures and generally handsome. The chief article of dress of the men was a
"buffalo or elk-skin robe decorated with beads, sea-shells, chiefly mother-of-
pearl attached to an otter-skin collar and hung in the hair, which falls in front
in two queues; feathers, paints of different kinds, principally white, green,
and light blue, all of which they find in their own country. The dress of the
women is more simple, consisting of a long skirt of argalia or ibex-skin, reach-
ing down to the ankles without a girdle ; to this are tied little pieces of brass
and shells and other small articles." Further on the journal states again: "The
Chopunnish have few amusements, for their life is painful and laborious; and
all their exertions are necessary to earn even their precarious subsistence.
During the Summer and Autumn they are busily occupied in fishing for salmon
and collecting their Winter store of roots. In the Winter they hunt the deer on
snow shoes over the plains, and towards Spring cross the mountains to the
Missouri for the purpose of trafficking for buffalo robes." It may be remarked
ihere parenthetically that there is every indication that buffalo formerly inhab-
ited the Snake and Columbia plains. In fact buffalo bones have been found in
Tecent years in street excavations at Spokane. What cataclysm may have led
to their extermination is hiddden in obscurity. But at the first coming of the
whites it was discovered that one of the regular occupations of the natives was
crossing the Rocky Mountains to hunt or trade for buffalo.
INDI.^NS' VAPOR BATHS
Soon after resuming the journey on October 11th, the explorers note with
•curiosity one of the vapor baths common among those Indians, which they say
differed from those on the frontiers of the United States or in the Rocky
126 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Mountains. The bath house was a hollow square six or eight feet deep formed
in the river bank by damming up with mud the other three sides and covering
the whole completely except an aperture about two feet wide at the top. The
bathers descended through that hole, taking with them a jug of water and a
number of hot rocks. They would throw the water on the rocks until it steamed
and in that steam they would sit until they had perspired sufficiently, and then
they would plunge into cold water. This species of entertainment seems to
have been very sociable, for one seldom bathed alone. It was considered a
great affront to decline an invitation to join a bathing party.
The explorers seem to have had a very calm and uneventful descent of
Snake River. They describe the general lay of the country accurately, noting
that beyond the steep ascent of two hundred feet (it is in reality a great deal
more in all the upper part of this portion of Snake River) the country becomes
an open, level, and fertile plain, entirely destitute of timber. They note all the
rapids with sufficient particularity to enable any one thoroughly familiar with
them to identify most of them. They make special observation of the long
series of rapids commonly known now as the Riparia and Texas Rapids, and
below these observe a large creek on the left which they denominate Kimooenim
Creek, the present Tucannon. This is rather odd, for that had already been
noted as the native name of the main river. A few miles farther down they
pass through a bad rapid about twenty-five yards wide. Of course it must be
remembered that the time was October and the river was about at its lowest.
This was the narrow creek of the Palouse Rapids, which, however, is not so
narrow as they estimated, even at low water. At the end of this rapid they
discovered a large river on the right to which they give the name of Drewyer,
one of their party, their mighty hunter in fact. This was a many-named stream,
for it was later the Pavion, the Pavillion, and at last the present Palouse, the
equivalent, we are told again by Thomas Beall, for gooseberry. The principal
rapids below the entrance of the Palouse are known at present as Fish-hook,
Long's Crossing, Pine Tree, the Potato Patch, and Five-mile. Five-mile looked
so bad to them that they unloaded the canoes and made a portage of three-
quarters of a mile. At a distance below this, which they estimated at seven
miles, they reached that interesting place where the great northern and southern
branches of the Big River unite. They were then at the location of the present
village of Burbank. Many interesting events and observations are chronicled
of their stay at that point. Soon after their arrival a regular procession of two
hundred Indians from a camp a short distance up the Columbia came to visit
them, timing their approach with the music of dnnns, accompanied with the
voice. There seems to have followed a regular love-feast, both parties taking
whiffs of the friendly pipe and expressing as best they could their common joy
at the meeting. Then came a distribution of presents and a mutual pledging
of good will.
MEASURED THE RIVERS
The captains measured the rivers, finding the Columbia 960 yards wide
and the Snake 575. From their point of observation across the continued plain
they noted how it rose into the heights on the farther side of the river, those
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 127
which we now call "Horse Heaven." They had already taken into account the
far distant mountains to the south, the present named Blue Mountains, which
they thought about sixty miles distant, just about the right estimate. It is to be
hoped that it was one of the perfect days not infrequent in October and that the
azure hues of those mountains which we have today were before them in all
their rich, soft splendor. They noted in the clear water of the river the in-
credible number of salmon. The Indians gave them to understand that fre-
quently in the absence of other fuel they burned the fish that, having been
thrown out upon the bank, became so dry as to make excellent fuel.
These Indians were of a tribe known as Sokulks. According to the de-
scription they were hardly so good-looking a people as the Chopunnish, but
were of mild and peaceable disposition and seemed to live in a state of com-
parative happiness. The men, like those on the Kimooenim, were said to con-
tent themselves with a single wife. The explorers noted that the men shared
with their mates the labor of procuring subsistence more than is usual among
savages. They were also very kind to the aged and infirm. Nor were they
inclined to beggary. All things considered the Sokulks at the junction of the
big rivers were worthy of much esteem.
Captain Clark made a journey up the Columbia in the course of which
he made sundry interesting observations on the Indian manner of preparing
salmon for preservation as well as present use. At one point he entered one
of the mat houses. He was immediately provided with a mat on which to sit
and his hosts proceeded at once to cook a salmon for his repast. This they did
by heating stones and dropping them into the buckets of water which contained
the fish, adding stones to maintain the boiling of the water until the fish was
properly cooked. After sufficient boiling these hospitable natives placed the fish
before Captain Clark. He found it excellent. One thing which Captain Clark
noticed at this point, was the large number of Indians blind in one or both eyes
and having decayed teeth. He attributed the blindness to the glare of the sun
on the unprotected eyes, and the decay of teeth to the habit of eating roots
without cleaning them of the sandy soil in which they grew. It would appear
from the topography of the journal that Captain Clark went some distance
above the present location of Kennewick. for he describes a large river flowing
from the west, known to the Indians as Tapteal. This was of course the useful
and beautiful stream which is the vital feature of the valley described in this
history, the Yakima. The fact that the Lewis and Clark party learned of it
under the name of Tapteal seems to conform to the fact which we stated on the
authority of Frank Olney in Chapter II, Part I, of this volume, that the word
Yakima is a new name. The Tapteal appears at many points in later reports of
explorers. On page 641 of Coues' edition of the Lewis and Clark journals, we
find other forms of the name: Tapteel, Tapteat, Taptete, Tapatett, and Taptul.
It does not appear from the journal that the party ascended or even that they
crossed the Tapteal, but they were undoubtedly the first white men to see it.
At this point of the journey the party secured an abundant supply of
"game," grouse (or rather what we now call prairie chickens), ducks, and alsa
a "prairie cock, about the size of a small turkey," (sage hens, as we call them).
The journal states that they found none of these last except on the Columbia.
128 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
In this connection it is interesting to note that some Indians say that genuine
wild turkeys were known in the Yakima Valley in old times.
While camped at the junction of the rivers the men were busily engaged
in mending their clothes and traveling outfits and arms and otherwise prepar-
ing for the next stage of the journey. One very interesting feature of the stay
here was the fact that one of the chiefs with one of the Chimnapum, a tribe
farther west, provided the party with a map of the Columbia and the nations on
its banks. This was drawn on a robe with a piece of coal and afterwards trans-
ferred by some one of the explorers to a piece of paper. They preserved it
as a valuable specimen of Indian delineation. Inspection of the copy of this
map shows a remarkable general accuracy.
On October 18th, the party packed up and pushing ofif into the majestic
river proceeded downward toward the highlands, evidently what we call the
Wallula Gateway. In the general journal, called the edition of 1814, in which
the contributions of all the party are merged, there seems to be some confusion
as to the mouth of the Walla Walla River. The record mentions an island near
the right shore fourteen and one-half miles from the mouth of Lewis' River
and a mile and a half beyond that a small brook under a high hill on the left,
"seeming to run its whole course through the high country." This evidently
must be the Walla Walla River, though it can hardly be called a "small brook,"
even in the low season, and it flows quite distinctly in a valley, though the high-
lands begin immediately below. They also say: "At this place too we ob-
served a mountain to the southwest the form of which is conical, and its top
covered with snow." This is obviously incorrect, for Mount Hood, which is the
only snow mountain to the southwest visible any where near that place, cannot
be seen from the mouth of the Walla Walla except by climbing the highlands.
They might have seen Mount Adams to the northwest.
On the next day, October 19th, the party was visited by a chief of whom
they say more and tell more on their return. This was Y'elleppit. They de-
scribed him as a "handsome, well-proportioned man, about five feet eight inches
high and about thirty-five years old, with a bold and dignified countenance."
His name is preserved in a station on the S. P. S. R. R., located just about at
the place where the party met with this chieftain.
After the meeting with Yelleppit the party once more committed them-
selves to the downward rushing current of the Columbia, where it now skirts
Benton and Klickitat counties on its right bank, and passed beyond the range
of our story. Of the interesting details of their continued journey down the
river and the final vision of the ocean, "that ocean, the object of all our labors,
the reward of all our anxieties," we cannot speak.
START ON RETURN JOURNEY
Having spent the winter at Fort Clatsop, about ten miles from the present
Astoria and nearly the same distance from the present Seaside, they left Fort
Clatsop for their long return journey, on March 23, 1806. They saw many
interesting and important features of the country on the return, which they
failed to note in going down. Among these, strange to say, was the entrance
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 129
of the Willamette, the largest river below the Snake. The return was made
as far as the "Long Narrows," (The Dalles) with the canoes, but at that point
they procured horses and proceeded thence by land, mainly on the north side of
the river. Reaching the country of the "Walla Wallahs," they again came in
contact with their old friend, whose name appears in that portion of the jour-
nal as Yellept. They found him more of a gentleman than ever. He insisted
on his people making generous provision for the needs of the party, and gave
them the valuable information that by going up the "Wolla Wollah" River
and directly east to the junction of the Snake and Kooskooskee they might
have a route full of grass and water and game, and much shorter than to follow
the banks of the Snake River. Accordingly crossing from the north bank of
the Columbia, which they had been following, they found themselves on the
Wolla Wollah. They do not now describe it as before as a "small brook,"
but as "a handsome stream, about fifty yards wide and four and a half feet
depth." They got one curious misapprehension here which was held later by
explorers in general in regard to the Multnomah or Willamette. They under-
stood from the Indians that the Willamette ran south of the Blue Mountains
and was as large as the Columbia at the mouth of the Wolla Wollah, which they
say was about a mile. They inferred from the whole appearance, as the Indians
seemed to explain it, that the sources of the Willamette must approach those
of the Missouri and Del Norte. One quaint and curious circumstance is men-
tioned at this stage of the story, as it has been, in fact, at various times. And
that is the extravagant delight which the Indians derived from the viohn. They
were so fascinated with the sound of this instrument and the dancing which
accompanied it that they would come in throngs and sometimes remain up all
night. In this particular instance, however, they were so considerate of the
white men's need of sleep that they retired at ten o'clock.
We cannot give further space to this monumental journey. We must con-
tent ourselves, in this farewell glance at this first and in many respects the
most interesting and important of all the early transcontinental expeditions,
with saying that the effects were of momentous, even transcendent value to the
development of our country. Without the incorporation of Old Oregon into
the United States, we would in all probability not have got California, and with-
out our Pacific Coast frontage, think what a crippled and curtailed Union this
would be ! We would surely have missed our destiny without the Pacific Coast.
The Lewis and Clark Expedition was one of the essential links in the chain of
acquisition. The summary of distances by the party is a total of 3,555 miles
on the most direct route from the Mississippi at the mouth of the Missouri, to
the Pacific Ocean, and the total distance descending the Columbia waters is
placed at 640 miles.
Jefferson's tribute to captain lewis
President Jefferson did not exaggerate the character of this expedition in
the tribute which he paid to Captain Lewis in 1813, when he expressed himself
thus : "Never did a similar event excite more joy throughout the United States ;
the humblest of its citizens have taken a lively interest in the details of this
journey and looked with impatience for the information which it would fur-
(9)
130 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
nish. Nothing short of the official journals of this extraordinary and interest-
ing journey will exhibit the importance of the service, the courage, devotion,
zeal and perseverance under circumstances calculated to discourage, which ani-
mated this little band of heroes, throughout the long, dangerous and tedious
travel."
Though many additional valuable discoveries of this land where we live
were made by later explorers, Lewis and Clark and their assistants may justly
be regarded as the true first explorers. They were moreover the only party
that came purely for exploration. Later parties, though making valuable ex-
plorations, did such work as incidental to the fur trade. With the completion
of this great expedition, therefore, we may regard the Era of the Explorers
completed and that of the Fur Hunters begun.
Our special interest in this volume is the Yakima country and its inhabi-
tants as noted by these first explorers.
It does not appear that the Lewis and Clark party entered into the pre-
cincts of the three counties covered by this history further than the edge of Ben-
ton, apparently from about the vicinity of Kennewick and thence onward to the
Yakima River and possibly toward Richland on their entrance to the country.
Then when they resumed the journey after several days' pause at the junction
of the big rivers, they seem to have touched the land at various points from
about the vicinity of Hover downward, though their journey was by boat. On
the return they came with horses from near the present vicinity of Fallbridge
on the north side of the Columbia to a point opposite the mouth of the "Wolla
Wollah," where, with the assistance of Yellept, they crossed to the southern
shore.
At all events we may be assured that the eyes of Lewis and Clark and their
associates were first to gaze upon the sublime river toward the azure hued
Rattlesnake Mountains and then to pass through the Wallula Gateway to the
broad plains of the Umatilla and the arid slopes with which the Horse Heavert
fronts the south.
CHAPTER V
ERA OF TRAPPERS, HUNTERS AND TRAIL-MAKERS
STARTING OF THE FUR TRADE PROFITS OF THE BUSINESS — AMERICAN FUR COM-
PANIES— FOUNDING OF ASTORIA — THE FREE TRAPPERS RECORD OF DISASTER
SOME STORIES OF THE FUR TRADERS — ROSS' STORY — HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY
THE BOATS OF THE TRADERS LATER AMERICAN FUR TRADERS — SOME UNIQUE
FREE TRAPPERS
In the preceding chapter we have given a view of the earliest discoveries by
sea and land. By 1806 the general features of the continent both on coast and.
interior were measurably well known. With the discoveries of Meares iind
Vancouver and Broughton, the English explorers, and Gray and Kendrick and
Ingraham, the Americans, and Heceta and Perez and Bodega, the Spaniards,
and La Perouse, the Frenchman, and Behring, Schelikoff and ResanofY, the Rus-
sians, and many more of those nations, the shore line all the way from the
Arctic circle to Mexico had been traced and mapped. By the explorations of
Malaspina the old myth of Anian had been finally exploded. The Inland Pas-
sage, now the scene of many summer excursions to Alaska, had been definitely
located, and it was understood that the old legendary voyages of Juan de Fuca
and Maldonado and Fonte had no other basis of fact than the possible passage-
through a maze of islands from one section of the Pacific Ocean to another.
Such was the status of discovery on the coast.
With the monumental expedition of Lewis and Clark the location of the-
mountains, Rocky and Cascades, and some of their spurs, and the relations
of the two great river systems, the Missouri and Columbia and their tribu-
taries, to each other and to the mountains, had been determined in a general
way. Such were the results of exploration. But one of the great working
facts of the progress of geographical discovery has been that the main incen-
tive was not discovery, pure and simple, but was some ulterior political or com-
mercial end, or both of these combined. In the history of the discovery of
the American Continent we find two of those ends playing a tremendous part
in determining the aims and movements of discoverers.
Political and commercial aims were curiously interwoven in these two
great quests, and ultimately social and even religious aims added their part
to the complexities and evolutiops and involutions of these fundamental aims.
These two great quests were for gold and for furs.
Hence, we find ourselves on the threshold of an inquiry into the outline
features of one of these great quests, that for furs. We shall for the time
dismiss the history of the gold hunters, fascinating as it is and tremendous
as has been its part in human afifairs, with the observation that the Spanish
131
132 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
and Portuguese were guided almost entirely" in their explorations and policies
in South America, Mexico, and the southern part of North America by that
mysterious lure of the precious metals and precious stones which stamped
out of existence the beautiful and interesting semi-civilizations of Peruvians
and Aztecs and ultimatley hastened the downfall of Spanish despotism. By
one of those mysterious allotments of fortune or Providence which constitute
the turning points of history, the gold quest and discoveries in North America
were postponed till the middle of the Nineteenth Century, with the result that
this continent became Anglo-Saxon rather than Spanish, Republican rather than
Monarchical.
What that means in the present great crisis of human history is beyond
the scope of analysis or imagination.
The quest for furs, while less dazzling and dramatic than that for gold
and diamonds, has been more steady and continuous and has probably played
even a greater part in the affairs of the world. The gold hunt was mainly
Spanish and Portuguese, and that for furs mainly French, English and Rus-
sian, while the Americans, latest to arrive, have been distributed in both fields.
And, in fact, we must avoid national generalizations in such a view as this.
None of the people of Europe or America have shown themselves indifferent
to the attractions of either furs, gold, or gems.
STARTING OF THE FUR TRADE
The first great market for furs was China, and the Russians were first
to enter it. The crew of the ill-fated and heroic Russian explorer, Vitus
Behring, beleaguered on the desolate island which bears his name and where
he died, discovered the sea otter skins, and when they escaped from their rocky
prison, they conveyed many of these furs with them to Avatcha Bay, and thus
the conception of the great fur trade on the Pacific was first formed. In 1771
a Pole, Maurice de Benyowski, sailed from Kamchatka with the first regular
cargo of furs, to Canton. The Mandarins of China were eager to secure furs
as symbols of rank and wealth, and the Canton market speedily became the
entrepot for the adventurers of all nations, East and West.
In 1776, the very year of the Declaration of Independence, that Columbus
of Eighteenth Century England, James Cook, started on his inter-oceanic
voyages across the water of two hemispheres. In the course of it he passed
up the coast of Oregon and Alaska and into the Arctic Ocean. By another
of those mysterious dispensations of Providence, there was on one of Cook's
ships an American sailor, John Ledyard, and thereby hangs a tale.
For this keen and inquisitive Yankee, along with others of the crew,
found and preserved for their own comfort, sea-otter skins from the Alaska
islands. Reaching Canton, they discovered that there was a great demand for
these furs, and they sold them at a great profit. This experience planted in
the enterprising Ledyard the idea of encouraging his countrymen to visit the
western coast in search of furs. When Ledyard reached America he came in
touch with JeflFerson and other Americans, and indirectly there sprung from
this course of events, the fitting out at Boston of the "Lady Washington" and
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 133
"Columbia Rediviva," in command of Robert Gray and John Kendrick, to
whom we owe the discovery of the Columbia River, and the strongest link in
the chain of America's claim to Oregon. Indirectly, also, Jefferson was led
on to the Louisiana Purchase and the Lewis and Clark Expedition. As a
result of these beginnings by Russians and English the maritime fur trade
had reached large proportions and yielded great profits by the opening of the
Nineteenth Century. The last decades of the Eighteenth Century were fairly
redolent with the fragrance, the romance, of the sea.
These were the years when the United States, just sprung, with the fire
and hope of a new Era, from the arms of Liberty, was entering the lists of com-
merce against the nations of the old world. Those were the days of the sail
ships, and the hard-visaged skippers of Nantucket and Gloucester, and Boston,
and Newport were circumnavigating the globe and making the silks and nan-
keens and toys and fragrant woods and spices of the Orient the household
treasures, to become later the heirlooms of many of the subsequent "first fami-
lies" of New England.
One of those Yankee barks would load up at Boston or Nantucket with
trinkets and hatchets and tobacco and rum, and round the foaming barriers
of Cape Horn and up the South American and Mexican coasts, sliding through
the tropics, and then creeping along the California and Oregon shores, to pause
for a season's trade in the mouth of the Columbia or at Nootka, or even way
up North to Queen Charlotte's Sound or Dixon Entrance or Cook's Inlet, there
to exchange the cargo for one of sea-otter or seal skins, battling often with
waves and sometimes with treacherous savages, as the fate of the "Tonquin"
and the "Boston" proved only too truly. Then, with Stars and Stripes flying
exultantly, the ship would square away for Canton or Macao, where the furs
would go out and the silks and teas and sandal wood and spices would go in,
and then away around the Cape of Good Hope for home. Such was the great
three years' round-up of the "Seven Seas." The glory and fascination and the
peril of the ocean was in it, and sometimes its profits. What with savages
and storm and scurvy and fluctuating markets and caprices of politics and
world wars, some have said that not even the huge percentages of gain were
adequate compensation.
PROFITS OF THE BUSINESS
Yet those percentages were large enough to tempt an ever-increasing
number of merchants and adventurers.
Robert Gray once got for an axe a quantity of furs on Puget Sound that
were worth $8,000 in the Canton market. Dixon reports that in 1786 and 1787
there were sold in Canton five thousand eight hundred sea-otter skins for
$160,700. Sturgis relates that he had collected as high as six thousand skins of
fine quality in a single voyage, and that on one day he got five hundred and
sixty of the very best. In one case he knew a capital of $50,000 to yield a
gross income of $284,000.
But great as were the profits and important as were the historical bearings
of the maritime fur trade, the continental trade became a yet more potent factor
in the making of American history.
134 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
During the years long prior to the growth of the fur trade on the Pacific
Coast, there had been initiated upon the Mississippi and St. Lawrence and the
Great Lakes the great companies whose agency in the quest for furs was to
play a great part in the history of the Pacific Coast. These traders for the
sea-otter and the seal on our western shore represented a sort of free-for-all
rush to new fields and new markets without any special moneyed interests in
the lead. But the situation in Louisiana and Canada was radically different.
Great operators, foreshadowings of the monopolies of the Nineteenth Century,
had come into existence long before the American Revolution. As far back
as the beginning of the Sixteenth Century De Moots, Pontgrave, Champlain,
and other great French explorers had secured monopolies on :he fur trade from
Louis XIII and his minister, Richelieu. Later La Salle, Hennepin, DTberville
and others had the same advantages. The St. Lawrence, the Great Lakes,
and the upper Mississippi were the great "preserve" of these concessionaires.
The English and their American colonists set themselves in battle array against
the monopolistic Bourbon methods of handling the vast domain which the
genius and enterprise of De Monts and Champlain had won for France, with
the result that upon the heights of Abraham the Fleur-de-Lis was lowered
before the Cross of St. George, and North America became English instead
of Gallic, and one of the world's milestones was set for good. Then, by one
of those beautiful ironies of history which baffle all prescience, victorious Britain
violated the principles of her own conquest and adopted the methods of Bourbon
tyranny and monopoly, with the result that another milestone was set on the
highway of liberty and the new continent became American instead of European.
But out of the struggles of that century, French, English and American,
out of the final distribution of territory, by which England retained Canada
and with it a large French and Indian population, mingled with English and
Scotch, out of these curious comminglings, economic, commercial, political,
religious, and ethnic, grew the great English fur companies, whose history was
largely wrought out on the shores of the Columbia, and from whose juxtapo-
sition with the American state-builder the romance and epic grandeur of the
history of the River largely comes.
Many enterprises were started by the French and English in the Seven-
teenth Century, but the "Hudson's Bay Company" became the Goliath of them
all. The first charter of this gigantic organization was granted in 1670 by
Charles II to Prince Rupert and seventeen others, with a capital stock of ten
thousand five hundred pounds. From this small beginning the profits were so
great that, notwithstanding the loss of two hundred thousand pounds from the
French wars during the latter part of the century, the company declared
dividends of from twenty-five to fifty per cent.
The field of operations was gradually extended from the southeastern
regions contiguous to Hudson Bay, until it embraced the vast and dreary
expanses of snowy prairie traversed by the Saskatchewan, the Athabasca, the
Peace, and finally the Mackenzie. Many of the greatest expeditions by land
under British auspices which resulted in great geographical discoveries were
primarily designed for the expansion of the fur trade.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY . 135
Just at the critical moment, both for the great Canadian Fur Company, as
■well as for discovery and acquisition in the region of the Columbia, a most
important and remarkable champion entered the lists. This was the "North
West Fur Company" of Montreal. It was one of the legitimate consequences
xjf the treaty of Paris in 1763, ceding Canada to Great Britain. The French
in Canada became British subjects by that treaty, and many of them had exten-
sive interests as well as experience in the fur business. Furthermore, a number
of Scotchmen of great enterprise and intelligence betook themselves to Canada,
eager to partake of the boundless opportunities offered by the new shuffle of
the cards. These Scotchmen and Frenchmen became natural partners in the
foundation of enterprises independent of the Hudson's Bay monopoly. In 1783
a group of the boldest and most energetic of these active spirits, of whom the
leaders were McGillivray, McTavish, Benjamin and Joseph Frobisher, Reche-
bleve, Thain, and Frazer, united in the formation of the North-West Fur Com-
pany. Bitter rivalry soon arose between the new company and the old
monopoly. Following the usual history of special privilege, the old company,
which had now been in existence one hundred and thirteen years, had learned
to depend more on privilege than on enterprise, and had become somewhat
degenerate. The North-Westers "rustled" for new business in new regions.
In 1789 Alexander Mackenzie, one of the North-Westers, made his way with
incredible hardship down the river which bears his name to the Frozen Ocean.
A few years later he made the first journey to the shore of the Pacific, com-
memorating his course by painting on a rock on the shore of Cascade Inlet,
■northeast of Vancouver Island, these words: "Alexander Mackenzie, from
Canada, by land, the twenty-second of July, one thousand seven hundred and
ninety-three."
As a result of the new undertakings set on foot by the North- Westers and
the re-awakened Hudson's Bay Company, both companies entered the Columbia
Valley. The struggle for possession of Oregon between the English and
American fur companies and their governments was on. In the Summer of 1807
and several times later David Thompson of the North West Company crossed the
continental divide by the Athabasca Pass in lat. 52° 25'. The North- Westers had
heard of the Astor enterprise in New York and realized that they must be up and
doing if they would control the land of the Oregon. Although the character
of soil, climate, and productions of the Columbia Valley was but imperfectly
known, enough information had been derived from Lewis and Clark, and from
•ocean discoveries, to make it plain that the Columbia furnished the most con-
venient access to the interior from the sea, and that its numerous tributaries
furnished a network of boatable waters unequalled on the western slope, while
there was every reason to suppose that its forests abounded in fur-bearing ani-
mals and that its climate would admit of much longer seasons of work than was
possible in the biting winters of the Athabasca. It became vital to the conti-
nental magnitude of the designs of the Canadian companies that they control
Oregon.
For greater topical clearness we will anticipate a little at this point and
state that after several years of intense rivalry it became plain to the British
136 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Parliament that it was suicidal to allow a policy of division in the face of a
common enemy. Hence in 1821, by act of Parliament, the two companies were
reorganized and united under a charter which was to last twenty-one years (and
as a matter of fact was renewed at the end of that time), and under the pro-
visions of which the North-Westers were to have equal shares in both stock
and offices, though the name of the Hudson's Bay Company, was retained. It
will be remembered therefore, that up to the year 1821, the two great Canadian
companies were distinct, and that during that time the North- West Company
was much the more active and aggressive in the Columbia Valley, but that after
that date the entire force of the Canadian companies was combined under the
name of the old monopoly. But, however bitter the first enmity of the Cana-
dian rivals, they agreed on the general proposition that the Americans must be
checkmated, and during the score of years prior to their coalition they were
seizing the pivotal points of the Oregon country. During the next two decades
they created a vast network of forts and stations, and reduced the country con-
tiguous to the river and its tributaries to a system so elaborate and interesting
as to be worthy of extended study. We can sketch only its more general fea-
tures. And the more perfectly to understand them, we must arrest here the
story of the great Canadian monopoly and bring up the movement of the Amer-
ican fur companies.
It may be noted, first of all, that by reason of the quicker colonization and
settlement and consequent establishment of agriculture and other arts pertain-
ing to home life, the region of the United States east of the Mississippi never
became the natural habitat of the trapper and fur trader to anything like the
degree of Canada and the western part of our own land. Nevertheless exten-
sive fur interests grew up on the Mississippi during the French regime, and
in 1763-64 August and Pierre Chouteau located a trading post on the present
site of St. Louis, and the fascinating history of that great capital began.
AMERICAN FUR COMPANIES
Most of the American trading companies confined their operations to the
east side of the Rocky Mountains. But the Missouri Fur Company of St.
Louis, composed of a miscellaneous group of Americans and Hispano-Gallo-
Americans, under the presidency of Manuel Lisa, a bold and enterprising
Spaniard, took a step over the crest of the mountains and established the first
trading post upon the waters of the Columbia. This was in 1809. Andrew
Henr}^ one of the partners of the aforesaid company, crossed the mountains
in that year and a year later built a fort on a branch of the Snake River. This
seems to have been on what subsequently became known as Henry's River. It
was in one of the wildest and grandest regions of all that wild, grand section
of the Snake River. Henry's River drains the north side of the Three Tetons,
while the south branch, known afterwards as Lewis and finally as Snake
River, drains the south of that group of mountains. Henry must be remem-
bered as the first American and the first white man recorded in history who
built any structure upon Snake River, and the year was 1810. Both Henry
and his company had hopes of accomplishing great things in the way of the
fur trade in that very favorable region. But the next year the Indians were
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 137
so threatening that the fort was forsaken and the party returned to the Mis-
souri. When the Hunt party in the Fall of 1811 sought refuge at this point,
they found only a group of abandoned huts, with no provision or equipment
of which they could make any use.
But though Henry's Fort was but a transient matter, his American coun-
trymen were beginning to press through the open gateways of both mountain
and sea. In the early part of 1809 the Winship brothers of Boston, together
with several other keen-sighted Yankees, formed a project for a definite post
on the Columbia River, proposing to reach their destination by ship. Accord-
ingly they fitted out an old vessel known as the "Albatross," with Nathan Win-
ship as captain, William Gale as captain's assistant, and William Smith as first
mate. Captain Gale kept a journal of the entire enterprise, and it is one of the
most interesting and valuable of the many ship records of the Northwestern
Coast.
Setting sail with a crew of twenty-two men and an excellent supply of
stores and ammunition, and an abundance of tools and hardware for erecting
needful buildings, the "Albatross" left Boston in the Summer of 1809. After
a slow and tedious, but very healthful and comfortable voyage, stopping at the
Hawaiian Islands on the route, the "Albatross" reached the mouth of the Col-
umbia River on May 26, 1810. Many American and other ships had entered
the mouth of the river prior to that date, but so far as known none had ascended
any considerable distance. Apparently Gray and Broughton were the only
shipmasters who had ascended above the wide expanse now known as Gray's
Bay, while the Lewis and Clark Expedition contained the only white men who
had seen the river above tidewater. The Winship enterprise may be regarded
with great interest, therefore, as the first real attempt to plant a permanent estab-
ment on the banks of the river.
Winship and his companions spent some days in careful examination of the
river banks and as a result of their search they decided on a strip of valley land
formed by a narrowing of the river on the north and an indentation of the
mountain on the south. This pleasant strip of fertile land is located on the
south bank of the lordly stream, and its lower end is about forty-five miles
from the ocean. Being partially covered with a beautiful grove of oak trees,
the first to be seen on the ascent of the river, the place received the name of
Oak Point. It may be noted that this name was subsequently transferred to a
promontory nearly opposite on the north bank, and this circumstance has led
many to locate erroneously the site of the first buildings designed for perma-
nent use on the banks of the Columbia. And such these were, for the Lewis
and Clark structures at what they called Fort Clatsop, erected four and a half
years earlier, were meant only for a winter's use. But the Winship party had
glowing visions of a great emporium of the fur trade, another Montreal or
St. Louis, to inaugurate a new era for their country and themselves. They
designed paying the Indians for their lands, and in every way treating them
justly. They seem in short to have had a very high conception of the dignity
and worth of their enterprise. They were worthy of the highest success, and the
student of today cannot but grieve that their high hopes were dashed with
disaster.
138 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Tying the "Albatross" to the bank on June 4th, they entered at once with
great energy on the task of felling trees, rearing a large log house, clearing a
garden spot, in which they at once. began the planting of seeds, and getting
ready to trade with the natives. But within four days the river began to rise
rapidly, and the busy fort-builders perceived to their dismay that they had
located on land subject to inundation. All the work thus far done went for
naught, and they pulled their fort to pieces and floated the logs down stream
a quarter of a mile to a higher place. There they resumed their buildings with
redoubled energy. But within a week a much more dangerous situation, and this
time permanently, arrested their grand project. This time it was the very men
toward whom they had entertained such just and benevolent designs, the
Indians, who thwarted their plans. For, as Captain Gale narrates in a most
entertaining manner, a large body of Chinooks and Cheheeles, armed with bows
and arrows, and some muskets, made their appearance, announcing that they
were on their way to war against the Culaworth tribe who had killed one of
their chiefs a year before. But the next day the Indians, massing themselves
about the whites, gave such plain indications that the previous declaration was
a pretense, that the party hastily got into a position of defence. Their cannon
on board the "Albatross" had already been loaded in anticipation of emergen-
cies, and so plain was it that they could make a deadly defence that the threat-
ened attack did not come. A long "pow wow" ensued instead, and the Chinooks
insisted that the builders must select a site lower down the river. After due
consideration the party decided that any determined opposition by the Indians
would so impair their enterprise, even though they might be able to defend
themselves, that it would be best to seek a new location. Accordingly they
reloaded their effects, dropped down the river, and finally decided to make a
voyage down the California coast and return the next year. Return they did,
but by that time the next year the Pacific Fur Company had already located at
Astoria, the first permanent American settlement, and the Winship enterprise
faded away. That the design of the Winships was not at all chimerical is ap-
parent from the fact that within twenty years the Hudson's Bay Company had .
made of Vancouver, sixty miles farther up the river, the very kind of a trading
entrepot of which the Winships had dreamed. Their dream was reasonable,
but the time and place were unpropitious.
A quotation from Captain Gale's journal will give a conception of his
feelings :
"June 12th. — The ship dropped further down the river, and it was now
determined to abandon all attempts to force a settlement. We have taken off
the goats and hogs which were left on shore for the use of the settlement, and
thus we have to abandon the business, after having, with great difficulty and
labor, got about forty-five miles above Cape Disappointment ; and with great
trouble began to clear the land and build a house a second time, after cutting
timber enough to finish nearly one-half, and having two of our hands disabled
in the work. It is, indeed, cutting to be obliged to knuckle to those whom you
have not the least fear of, but whom, from motives of prudence, you are obliged
to treat with forbearance. What can be more disagreeable than to sit at the
table with a number of these rascally chiefs, who while they supply their greedy
HISTORY OF YAKIMA \-ALLEY • 139
;mouths with your food with one hand, their bloods boil within them to cut your
throat with the other, without the least provocation."
On the way out of the river Captain Winship learned that the Chinooks
•designed capturing his vessel, and would doubtless have done so, had not his
-vigilance prevented.
FOUNDING OF ASTORIA
While the crew of the "Albatross" were engaged in these adventures, the
largest American fur company yet formed was getting ready to effect a lodg-
anent on the shores of the Columbia. This was the Pacific Fur Company.
John Jacob Astor was the founder of this enterprise. Though unfortunate in
almost every feature of its history and its final outcome, this company had a
magnificent conception, a royal grandeur of opportunity, and it possessed also
the felicity, shared by no one of its predecessors, of the genius of a great lit-
•erary star to illuminate its records. To Washington Irving it owes much of
its fame. Yet the commercial genius of Astor could not prevent errors of
judgment by the management any more than the literary genius of Irving was
able to conceal their errors, or the genius of American liberty able to order
•events so as to prevent victory for a time by the "Britishers." As we view the
history in the large it may be that we shall conclude that the British triumph
at first was the best introduction to American triumph in the end.
John Jacob Astor may, perhaps, be justly regarded as the first of the great
promoters or financial magnates who have made the United States the world's
El Dorado. Coming from Germany to this land of opportunity after the close
of the Revolutionary war, he soon manifested that keen intuition in money
matters, as well as intense devotion to accumulation, which has led to the colos-
sal fortunes of his own descendants and of the other multimillionaires of this
age. Having made quite a fortune by transporting furs to London, Mr. Astor
turned to larger fields. With his broad and keen geographical and commer-
cial insight, he could readily grasp the same fact which the North-Westers of
Montreal were considering, that the Columbia River might well become the
key to an international fur trade, as well as a strategic point for American ex-
pansion westward. He made overtures to the North- Westers for a partnership,
but they declined. Then he determined to be the chief manager, and to asso-
ciate individual Americans and Canadians with himself. With the promptitude
of the skilful general, he proceeded to form his company and make his plan of
campaign in time to anticipate the apparent designs of the active Canadians.
They saw, as well as Astor did, the magnitude of the stake and at once made ready
to play their part. For, as already noted, David Thompson crossed the Rockies
by the Athabasca Pass in 1807 and on spent the Winter at Lake Windermere
on the Columbia River, and in the Summer of 1811 reached Astoria, only to
find the Astor Company already established there. It should be especially noted
that the Thompson party was the first to descend the river from near its source
to the ocean, although of course Lewis and Clark had anticipated them on the
portion below the junction of the Snake with the main river.
Mr. Astor's plans provided for an expedition by sea and one by land. The
first was to convey stores and equipment for founding and defending the pro-
140 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
posed capital of the empire of the fur traders. The organization of Mr. Astor's
company provided that there should be a capital stock of a hundred shares, of
which he should hold half and his associates half. Mr. Astor was to furnish
the money, though not to exceed four hundred thousand dollars, and was to.
bear all losses for five years. The term of the association was fixed at twenty
years though with the privilege of dissolving it in five years if it proved un-
profitable. The general plan and the details of the expedition had been decided
upon by the master mind of the founder with statesman-like ability. It comes,,
therefore, as a surprise to the reader that Mr. Astor should have made a capital
mistake at the very beginning of his undertaking. This mistake was in the
selection of his associates and the captains of some of his ships. Of the part-
ners, five were Americans and five were Canadians. Two only of the Ameri-
cans remained with the company long enough to have any determining influ-
ence on its policies. Take the fact that the majority of the active partners and
almost all the clerks, trappers, and other employes of the company were Cana-
dians, and put it beside the other fact that war was imminent with Great Britain
and did actually break out within two years, and the dangerous nature of the
situation can be seen. Of the ship captains, the first one. Captain Jonathan
Thorn of the "Tonquin," was a man of such overbearing and obstinate nature
that disaster seemed to be fairly invited by placing him in such a vitally respon-
sible position. The captain of the second ship, the "Beaver," was Cornelius
Sowles, and he seems to have been as timid and irresolute as Captain Thorn was
bold and implacable. Both lacked judgment. It was probably natural that Mr.
Astor, having had his main prior experience as a fur dealer in connection with
the Canadians centering at Montreal, should have looked in that direction for
associates. But inasmuch as war between England and the United States
seemed a practical certainty it was a great error, in founding a vast enterprise
in remote regions whose ownership was not yet definitely recognized, to share
with citizens of Great Britain the determination of the important issues of the
enterprise. It would have saved Mr. Astor great loss and chagrin if he had
observed the maxim: "Put none but Americans on guard." As to the captains
of the two vessels, that was an error that any one might have made. Yet for a
man of Astor's exceptional ability and shrewdness to err so conspicuously in
judging the character of the men appointed to such important places seems
indeed strange.
To these facts in regard to the personnel of the partners, the captains, and
the force, must be added two others, i. e., war and shipwreck. The combina-
tion of all these conditions made the history of the Astoria enterprise what it
was. Yet, with all of its adversity, this was one of the best conceived, and, in
most of its details, the best equipped and executed of all the great enterprises
which have appeared in the commercial history of our country. As an element
in the development of the land of the Oregon, it must be accorded the first
place after the period of discovery.
The "Tonquin" left New York on September 6, 1810. She carried a fine
equipment of all things needed for founding the proposed emporium. She was
manned by a crew of twenty-one and conveyed members of the fur-trading
force to the number of thirty-three. Stopping at the Sandwich Islands, an
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 141
added force of twenty- four natives was taken aboard. At various times on the
journey the rigid ideas of naval discipHne and the imperious temper of Captain
Thorn came near producing mutiny among the partners and clerks. When
the "Tonquin" hove to, off the mouth of the Columbia, on March 22, 1811, the
eager voyagers saw little to attract. The Avind was blowing in heavy squalls,
and the sea ran high. Nevertheless the hard-hearted captain issued orders to
the first mate. Fox, with a boat's crew of four men, to go into the foaming
waves and sound the channel. The boat was insufficinetly provided, and it
seemed scarcely short of murder to despatch a crew under such circumstances.
But the tyrannical captain would listen to no remonstrances, and the poor little
boat Vvent tossing over the billows on her forlorn hope. Such indeed it proved
to be, for neither boat nor any one of the crew waS ever heard of again. This
was a wholly unnecessary sacrifice of life, for the "Tonquin" was in no danger,
and time could just as well have been taken for more propitious weather.
The next day, the wind and sea having abated, the "Tonquin" drew near
the dreaded bar, but, no entrance that satisfied the captain appearing, the ship
again stood off to spend the night in deep water. On the next day, the 24th,
the wind fell and a serene sky seemed to invite another attempt. The pinnace
in command of Mr. Aikin, with two white men and two Kanakas, was sent out
to find the channel. Following the pinnace the ship moved in so rapidly under
a freshening breeze that she passed the pinnace, the unfortunate men on board
finding it impossible to effect an entrance and being borne by the refluent cur-
rent into the mad surge where ocean tide and outflowing river met in foamy
strife. So the pinnace disappeared. But meanwhile the crew had all their
energies engaged to save the "Tonquin." For the wind failed at the critical
moment and the ship struck the sands with violence. Night came on. Had the
men been classically trained (as in fact Franchere was) they might have re-
membered Virgil, Ponto nox incubat atra. But they had not time for classical
or other quotations. Hastily dropping the anchors they lay to in the midst of
the tumult of waters, in that worst of situations, on an unknown coast in the
dark and in storm. But as Franchere expresses it. Providence came to their
succor, and the tide flooding and the wind rising, they weighed the anchors, and
in spite of the obscurity of the night, they gained a safe harbor in a little cove
inside of Cape Disappointment, apparently just abreast of the present town of
Ilwaco.
Thus the "Tonquin" was saved, and with the light of morning it could be
seen that she was fairly within the bar. Natives soon made their appearance,
desirous of trading beaver-skins. But the crew were in no mood for commerce
while any hope existed for finding the lost sailors. Taking a course toward
the shore by what must have been nearly the present route from Ilwaco to Long
Beach, the captain and a party with him. began a search and soon found
Weeks, one of the crew of the pinnace. He was stark naked and suffering
intensely from the cold. As soon as sufficiently revived he narrated the loss of
the pinnace in the breakers, the death of three of the crew, and the casting of
himself and one of the Kanakas upon the beach. The point where they were
cast would seem to have been near the present location of the life saving sta-
tion.
142 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
The two survivors of the ill-fated pinnace having been revived, the party-
returned to the "Tonquin," which was now riding safely at anchor in the bay
on the north side of the river, named Baker's Bay by Broughton nineteen years
before. Joy for their own escape from such imminent perils was mingled with
melancholy at the loss of their eight companions of the two boats, and with the
melancholy there was a sense of bitterness toward the captain, who was to
blame, at least for the loss of the small boat.
But now the new land was all before them where to choose, and since
Captain Thorn was in great haste to depart and begin his trading cruise along
the coast, the partners on the "Tonquin," Messrs. McKay, McDougal, David
Stuart, and Robert Stuart, decided somewhat hurriedly to locate at the point
which had received from Lieutenant Broughton the name of Point George.-
Franchere gives a pleasant picture of the beauty of the trees and sky, and the-
surprise of the party to find that, though it was only the 12th of April when
they set to work upon the great trees which covered the site of their chosen
capital, yet Spring was already far advanced. They did not then understand
the effect of the Japan current upon the Pacific Coast climate.
An incident of special interest soon after landing was the appearance on
June 15th of two strange Indians, a man and a woman, bearing a letter ad-
dressed to Mr. John Stuart, Fort Estekatadene, New Caledonia. These two
Indians wore long robes of dressed deerskins with leggings and moccasins more
like the Indians of the Rocky Mountains. They could not understand the
speech of the Astoria Indians nor of any of the mixture of dialects which the
white men tried on them, until one of the Canadian clerks addressed them in
the Knisteneaux language with which they seemed to be partially familiar.
After several days of stay at the fort the two wandering Indians succeeded in
making it clear to the traders that they had been sent out by a clerk named
Finnan McDonald of the North-West Fur Company from a fort which that
company had just established on the Spokane River. They said that they had
lost their way and in consequence had descended the Tacousah-Tessah, which.
the whites supposed to be their name for the Columbia, though the general im-
pression among the Indians is that Tacousah-Tessah, or Tacoutche-Tesse, sig-
nified Frazer River. From the revelation gradually drawn from these two
Indians (and the surprising discovery was made that they were both women)
the very important conclusion was drawn that the North-West Fur Company-
was already prepared to contest with the Astor Company the possession of the
river. The peculiar feature of the situation was that the most of the Astoria
Company were Canadian and British by blood and sympathy, and hence were
very likely to fraternize with the Montreal traders.
However, the Astorians decided to send an expedition into the interior to-
verify the story given by the two Indian women, but, just as they were ready
to go, a large canoe with the British flag floating from her stern appeared,
from which, when it had reached the landing, there leaped ashore an active,
well-dressed man w-ho introduced himself as David Thompson, of the North-
West Company. This was the same man, the reader will remember, who had
crossed the Rocky Mountains the year before, had wintered near the head of
the river, and had then descended it, seeking a location for the Columbia River-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 145
emporium of the Canadian Company. But he was too late. It was quite
strange by what narrow margins on several occasions the British failed to fore-
stall the Yankees.
Oh July 23d the delayed expedition of the Astorians set forth far to the
interior, and as a result of their investigations, David Stuart, in charge of the
party, began the erection of a trading house at the mouth of the Okanogan, five
hundred and forty miles above Astoria. It was on September 2, 1811, that this
post was begun, and hence Fort Okanogan may be regarded as the first Ameri-
can establishment in the present state of Washington. It was antedated a few
months by the post of the North-West Company at the entrance of the Little
Spokane into the Spokane, near the present site of the city of Spokane.
While the sea-faring contingent of the Astor Company were thus estab-
lishing themselves at Astoria and Okanogan and were making the beginnings-
of successful trade with the natives both on the seashore and inland, the land
party was making its slow and toilsome way from St. Louis to the Columbia
River. This was the first party following Lewis and Clark to cross the con-
tinent, though, as already stated, Andrew Henry of the Missouri Fur Company
had crossed the Great Divide to the headwaters of Snake River in 1809.
The land division made its journey, or started to, in 1811, but as a matter
of fact the party did not reach Asto'ria till the opening of 1812. The story of
this strenuous journey is told in Irving's most fascinating style in his Astoria,
and no student of Pacific Coast history should fail to read that volume. Per-
haps few have failed. The commander of the party was Wilson Price Hunt,,
who was the second partner in rank to John Jacob Astor.
With Hunt were associated four other partners of the expedition. Crooks,
McKenzie, Miller, and McClellan. Accompanying the party were two English
naturalists, Bradbury and Nuttall, who did the first scientific study of the Rocky
Mountain region. There were forty Canadian voyageurs whose duties con-
sisted in rowing, transporting, cooking, and general drudgery. The remaining
twelve of the party consisted of a group of American hunters and trappers, the
leader of whom was a Virginian named John Day. The company was in all
respects fitted out most bountifully.
There were at that time two great classes of trappers. The first and most
numerous were the Canadian voyageurs. These were mainly of French descent,,
many of them being half-breeds. Almost amphibious by nature and training,
gay and amiable in disposition, with true French vivacity and ingenuity, gliding
over every harsh experience with laugh and song, possessed of quick sympathies
and humane instincts which enabled them to readily find the best side of the
Indians, these French voyageurs constituted a most interesting as well as indis-
pensable class in the trapper's business.
THE FREE TRAPPERS.
The free trappers were an entirely different class of men. They were usu-
ally American by birth, Virginia and Kentucky being the homes of most of
them. Patient and indefatigable in their work of trapping, yet when on their
annual trip to the towns given to wild dissipation and savage revellings, indif-
144 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
ferent to sympathy or company, harsh and cruel to the Indians, bold and over-
bearing, with blood always in their eyes, thunder in their voices, and guns in
their hands, yet underneath all of their harsh exterior having noble hearts,
could they but be reached, these now vanished trappers have gone to a place in
-history alongside of the old Spartans and the followers of Pizarro and Cortez
in Spanish conquest.
Of the many adventures of the Hunt party on the journey up the Missouri,
we cannot speak. For some reason, although taking a more direct route than
did Lewis and Clark, and having, to all appearance, a better equipped party,
they did not make so good time. Guided by Indians, they crossed chain after
chain of mountains, supposing each to be the summit, only to find another yet
to succeed. At last on the 15th of September, they stood upon a lofty eminence
■over which they could gaze both eastward and westward. Scanning attentively
the western horizon, the guide pointed out three shining peaks, whose bases, he
told them, were touched by a tributary of the Columbia River. These peaks
.are now known as the Three Tetons.
And now the party thus late in the season was starting down the long
western slope over an unknown region.
For Lewis and Clark, it will be remembered, had gone far to the north
and had descended upon the Clearwater and had made much better time than
did the Hunt party. It is worth noting, however, that the route taken by the
Hunt party was that which later became in most of its course the great Oregon
Emigrant Trail down Snake River.
The Hunt party met with many hardships. In the vicinity of the present
Twin Falls, they were tantalized by seeing the river rushing, inaccessible,
through volcanic sluiceways, and with parched lips were obliged to lie down
for the night within sound of its angry ravings but without a drop to drink.
The Scotchman dubbed this place "Caldron Linn," the Canadians called it the
""Devil's Scuttle-hole," and to the river they gave the name, "La Riviere Mau-
dite Enragee" (The Accursed Mad River). It was already winter time when the
party reached the point on Snake River near Huntington, crossed at present by
the Union Pacific Railroad. They were in extremities for food and could find
few Indians from whom to get either subsistence or information. Being at the
head of the great Snake River Canyon, above the Seven Devils of the present
nomenclature, they found themselves in such a tangle of forbidding crags and
cataracts as to make progress impossible. A small division, however, headed
l^y McKenzie, one of the partners and the strongest and most resourceful of
all, did make their way down the canyon, and across to the Clearwater, and
thence to navigable water on the Snake, whence, with boats constructed on the
river bank they made their way down the Snake and Columbia to Astoria, five
"hundred miles distant, arriving a month or more in advance of the main party.
This main party, meanwhile, under Hunt's leadership but with no guid-
ance, was floundering along the Boise and the Weiser, to and fro, in hope of
salvation from threatening freezing and famine.
At last they crossed Snake River and struck westward across the highlands
of Burnt River and Powder River. They must have pursued nearly the course
•of the present O.-W. R. R. and the State Highway through the Baker Valley.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY v 145
•On New Year's Day they were in the beautiful Grande Ronde Valley. Attrac-
tive as it now is, it must have seemed trebly so to those famished wanderers.
For the snows in which they had been floundering ceased, the genial sun of a
new year broke forth, and, best of all, they found many lodges of friendly
Indians, from whom they procured food and horses. Thus the expedition was
saved. The mercurial French Canadians, the voyageurs and coureurs des bois,
with Gallic enthusiasm celebrated New Year's Day with dance and song, with
feasts of dog meat, roasted, boiled, and fricasseed, and thus New Year's Day,
1812, was celebrated by the first party of trappers in eastern Oregon.
Another toilsome stage across the snowy range between Grande Ronde and
the Umatilla was necessary before they reached the spring-like and balmy airs
of the chinook-swept plain of that magnificent valley of the Umatilla. Here
they found a large and well equipped body of the Tushepaw Indians. These
Indians had axes, kettles, and other implements significant of trade with the
whites. Moreover they gave their eager questioners to understand that the
Great River was only two days' distant and that a small party of white men had
just descended it. Being now relieved of anxiety about McKenzie and his
party, Hunt felt that their dangers were mainly over, and with well filled stom-
achs and packs they set forth across the pleasant prairie and within two days,
having reached a point presumably near the present Umatilla, they beheld with
overflowing hearts the blue majestic flood, nearly a mile wide, hastening west-
ward, the Columbia ! Crossing the river into what is now Benton County,
formerly Yakima, and hence within the scene of our present work, they pro-
ceeded by land to the Grand Dalles. There they exchanged horses for canoes,
and with great content and ease after the snow and starvation of the journey
across the moutains of eastern Oregon, they proceeded gaily down the sweep-
ing waters of the great river. On February 15, 1812, they rounded Tongue Point
and close at hand saw the Stars and Stripes floating from the wooden walls of
the newly christened town of Astoria. As they neared the shore their approach
was noted, and the whole population came forth to meet them — trappers, sail-
ors, and Indians. Foremost in the crowd were the advance guard, McKenzie
and his men, who had arrived a month before and who, having left the main
party almost at death's door in the deserts of the Snake River, held no confident
hope that they would ever see them again. The Canadians with their Gallic
vivacity rushed into each others arms like so many school girls, while even the
stiff- jawed Scotchman and the nonchalant Americans gave themselves up to
the gladness of the hour.
The next two or three days were mainly devoted to eating and story telling.
Several of this party had been lost by drowning or starvation, and six sick
men, under the leadership of Ramsay Crooks and John Day, had been left on
Snake River, near the mouth of the Weiser. Of their subsequent evil fortunes
we will make mention later.
Gen. H. M. Chittenden of Seattle in his invaluable History of the Ameri-
can Fur-Trade sums up in a masterly way the different stages of the course of
the Hunt party and of the return journey of a party in command of Crooks and
Stuart which left Astoria June 29, 1812, and reached St. Louis, April 30, 1813.
'General Chittenden considers that these two expeditions, that went into Oregon
(10)
146 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
under Hunt and out of Oregon under Stuart, practically fixed the Oregon
Trail and thus made a contribution of much interest to history. In entering.
Hunt crossed the Rocky Mountains by what became known as Union Pass. It
was not till 1823 that a small party of hunters belonging to the Rocky Mountain
Fur Company, led by Etienne Provost and sent out by Andrew Henry, made the
great discovery of South Pass. To all immigrants or the descendants of such
the location of the Oregon Trail is one of the great events of history, and hence
these references to the beginnings of "Trail Making" contain much interest.
After what might be considered in a general way an auspicious beginning,
in spite of so much hardship and some disaster, the Pacific Fur Company of
John Jacob Astor was thus inaugurated both by sea and land. It was the fore-
most American enterprise in the fur trade, and the causes and manner of its
downfall, a matter of great chagrin to Americans, and the rise of the great
British fur companies, the Hudson's Bay and the North-West, constitute one of
the pivots on which the history of this country turns. The strange manner in
which the downfall of the American fur trade and the resulting dominance of
their British rivals were swiftly followed by the supplanting of those same
great British interests by the American Missionary and American Immigrant,
composes one of the great dramas of history.
In 1812 all signs pointed to the complete success of Aster's great enter-
prise. In May, 1812, the Company's ship "Beaver," arrived from New York,
loaded with stores and trading equipment, and bringing a considerable addition
to the force of men. In the following month sixty men were despatched up-
river, and by them a trading post was located at Spokane and another on the
Snake River somewhere near the present site of Lewiston, while one section of
the party went across the mountains and down the Missouri, to convey dis-
patches to Mr. Astor.
RECORD OF DISASTER
At this stage of the history of the Astoria enterprise, every aspect was en-
couraging. The trade in furs on the Spokane, the Okanogan, the Snake, and
the Coeur d' Alene was excellent, a successful cruise along the coast by the
"Beaver" seemed sure, and the Indians about the mouth of the river were
friendly and well disposed. Mr. Astor's great undertaking seemed sure to be
crowned with success. In the midst of all the signs of hope came tidings of
dismay. It became known with certainty that the "Tonquin" had been de-
stroyed. This appalling disaster was related directly to the Astoria Company
by the only survivor. This was an Indian of the Chehalis tribe whose name is
given by Irving as Lamazee, by Ross as Lamazu, and by Bancroft as Lamanse.
He had escaped from the Indians who had held him after the destruction of
the "Tonquin" and had finally found his way to Astoria, there to tell his tale,
one of the most sanguinary in the long roll of struggles with the Indians. The
next great disaster was the wrecking of the Lark, the third of the Company's
ships from New York. During the same period Mr. Hunt, the partner next
in rank to Mr. Astor and the one above all who could have acted wisely and
patriotically in the forthcoming crisis, had gone in the "Beaver" on a trading
cruise among the Russians of Sitka, and by a most remarkable series of deten-
tions he had been kept away from Astoria for over a year.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY ' 147
To cap the climax of misfortunes, the War of 1812 burst upon the knowl-
edge of the fur traders and seemed to force upon such of the partners as were
of British nationality the question of theii paramount duty. As a result of the
crisis, McDougal and McKenzie, although against the wishes of the other part-
ners present, sold out to the agent of the North- Westers, who had repaired at
once to Astoria upon knowledge of the declaration of war. Thus the great
Astoria enterprise was abandoned, and the Stars and Stripes went down and
the Union Jack went up. Soon after the transfer, the British man of war Rac-
coon, Captain Black, arrived at Astoria, expecting to have seized the place as
a rich prize of war. Imagine the disgust of the expectant British mariners to
discover that the post had already been sold to British subjects, that their long
journey was useless, and that their hopes of prize money had vanished.
With the close of the War of 1812 a series of negotiations between the min-
isters of the two countries took place in regard to the possession of the river,
by which it was finally decided that Astoria should be restored to the United
States. Accordingly, on the 6th of October, 1818, the British Commissioners,
Captain F. Hickey, of his Majesty's ship "Blossom," and J. Keith, representing
the North-West Fur Company, signed an act of delivery restoring Fort George
(Astoria) to the United States. Mr. J. B. Prevost, commissioner for the United
States, signed the act of acceptance. Astoria was once again American prop-
erty.
While the river was now nominally in possession of the United States, it
was practically under the control of the British fur companies. The Pacific Fur
Company ceased to operate, and the North- Westers entered upon active work
both by sea and land in exploring the vast and profitable domain which the mis-
fortunes of their American rivals, supplemented in a most timely manner by the
treachery of McDougall and McKenzie, had put within their power. The canny
Scotchmen, McDougall, McTavish, McKenzie, McDonald, and the various
other Macs who now guided the plans of the North-Westers, signalized their
entrance into power by despatching companies to the various pivotal points of
the great Columbia Basin, the Walla Walla, Yakima, Okanogan, Spokane, and
Snake Rivers. Two incidents may be related to illustrate the character of the
people and the conditions of that wilderness period.
SOME STORIES OF THE FUR TR.\DERS
A party of ninety men in ten canoes left Astoria for up-river points on
April 4, 1814. While passing the mouth of the Yakima, about three hundred
and fifty miles up the river, the men were surprised to see three canoes putting
out from shore and to hear a child's voice calling out, "Arretez done! arretez
done!" Stopping to investigate, they found the Indian wife of Pierre Dorion
and her children. They had been with the party under command of John Reed
of the Astor Company. While trapping and hunting, deep in the mountains
of Snake River, the party had been massacred by Indians. The woman and
her two boys had alone escaped the massacre. It was the dead of Winter and
the snows lay deep on the Blue Mountains. But the wife of Dorion found
shelter in a remote fastness of the mountains, putting up a bark hut for a
shelter and subsisting on the carcasses of some of her horses. In the Spring
148 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
the pitiful little company of mother and children descended to Walla Walla
and found there more kindly disposed natives who cared for them and turned
them over to the protection of the whites. A more thrilling story of suffering
and heroism than this of Madame Dorion and her children has never come up
from the chronicles of the wild West.
Of similar nature was the story of Crooks and Day to which we referred
-earlier. It will be remembered that the Hunt party had left six sick men in the
Snake River country. They had little hope of ever seeing them again, but the
next Summer the party on their way up the Columbia River, saw two wretched
looking beings, naked and haggard, wandering on the river bank near the mouth
of the Umatilla. Stopping to investigate, they discovered that these were Day
and Crooks, the leaders of the party which they had left behind. Their forlorn
plight was relieved with food and clothes, and, having been taken into the boat,
they related their dismal tale. It appeared that they had been provided suffi-
ciently by the Indians to sustain their lives through the Winter. In the Spring
they had left the Canadians among the Indians, and set forth in the hope of
reaching the Great River. But having reached The Dalles they had been robbed
■of rifles and ammunition, stripped of their clothing, and driven forth into the
wilderness. They were almost at a point of a final surrender to ill fortune when
they beheld the rescuing boat. So, with joyful hearts, they turned their boat's
prow to Astoria, which they reached in safety. But poor Day never regained
his health. His mind was shattered by the hardships of his journey, and he
soon pined away and died. The barren and rugged shores of the John Day
River in eastern Oregon take on an added interest in view of the sad story of
the brave hunter who discovered them, and who wandered in destitution for so
many days beside them. Strange to say, the four Canadians who remained
among the Indians were afterwards found alive, though utterly destitute of
everything. Hence it appears that the loss of life in this difficult journey was
not great.
Yet another of the best illustrations of life among the fur traders is the
story by Alexander Ross of his adventure in the "Eyakema" Valley. Ross was
first in the employ of the Astor Company and when they sold out to the North-
Westers he joined the latter. His book, "Fur-traders of the Far West," from
which this narrative is taken, is one of our best authorities. It is especially
worthy of note that from the reference to the Pisscows River (Wenatchee)
the valley "Eyakema," must have been the Kittitas. It is also important to
note that he refers to it as more or less known to the fur traders, and as not
having been considered safe. Since this adventure occurred in 1814 we may
readily infer that those enterprising avant-couriers of civilization had already
made their way into pretty much all of central Washington.
The story by Ross is as follows :
"On reaching the Oakanagan everything was at a dead stand for want of
packhorses to transport the goods inland, and as no horses were to be got nearer
than the Eyakema Valley, some two hundred miles southwest, it was resolved
to proceed thither in quest of a supply : at that place all the Indians were rich in
horses. The Cayouses, the Nez-Perces, and other war-like tribes, assemble
every Spring in the Eyakema to lay in a stock of the favourite kamass and
Pelua, or sweet potatoes, held in high estimation as articles of food among the
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 149
natives. There also the Indians hold their councils, and settle the affairs of
peace or war for the year; it is, therefore, the great national rendezous, where
thousands meet, and on such occasions, horses can be got in almost any num-
ber; but, owing to the vast concourse of mixed tribes, there is always more or
less risk attending the undertaking.
"To this place I had been once before during the days of the Pacific Fur
Company, so it fell to my lot again, although it was well known that the fatal dis-
asters which more than once took place between those tribes and the whites
would not have diminished, but rather increased, the danger; yet there was no
alternative, I must go : so I set off with a small bundle of trading articles, and.
only three men, Mr. Thomas McKay, a young clerk, and two French Canadians,
and as no more men could be spared, the two latter took their wives along with,
them, to aid in driving the horses, for women in these parts are as expert as
men on horseback.
"On the fourth night after leaving Oakanagan, Sopa, a friendly neighbor-
ing chief of the Pisscows tribe, on learning that we were on our way to the
Eyakemas, despatched two of his men to warn us of our danger, and bring us
back. The zealous couriers reached our camp late in the night. My men were
fast asleep ; but there was no sleep for me : I was too anxious, and heard their
approach. I watched their motions for some time with my gun in my hand, till
they called out in thier own language, "Samah ! Samah ! Pedcousm, Pedcousm"
— white men, white men, turn back, turn back, you are all dead men ! It was,
however, of no use, for we must go at all hazards. I had risked my life there for
the Americans, I could not now do less for the North-West Company ; so with
deep regret the friendly couriers left us and returned, and with no less reluc-
tance we proceeded. The second day after our friends left us, we entered the
Eyakema Valley — "the Beautiful Eyakema Valley" — so called by the whites.
But, on the present occasion, there was nothing beautiful or interesting to us;
for we had scarcely advanced three miles when a camp in the true Mameluke:
style presented itself; a camp, of which we could see the beginning but not the-
end! It could not have contained less than 3,000 men, exclusive of women and'
children, and treble that number of horses. It was a grand and imposing sight
in the wilderness, covering more than six miles in every direction. Councils,
root gathering, hunting, horse-racing, foot-racing, gambling, singing, dancing,
drumming, yelling, and a thousand other things which I cannot mention, were
going on around us.
"The din of men, the noise of women, the screaming of children, the tramp-
ing of horses, and the howling of dogs, was more than can well be described!
Let the reader picture to himself a great city in an uproar — it will afford some
idea of our position. In an Indian camp you see life without disguise; the feel-
ings, the passions, the propensities, as they ebb and flow in the savage breast.
In this field of savage glory all was motion and commotion ; we advanced
through groups of men and bands of horses, till we reached the very centre-
of the camp and there the sight of the chiefs' tents admonished us to dismount
and pay them our respects, as we depended on them for our protection.
"Our reception was cool, the chiefs were hostile and sullen, they saluted
us in no very flattering accents. 'These men are the ones,' said they, 'who kill
our relations, the people who have caused us to mourn.' And here, for the-
•150 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
first time, I regretted we had not taken advice in time, and returned with the
couriers; for the general aspect of things was against us. It was evident
we stood on slippery ground: we felt our weakness. In all sudden and unex-
pected rencontres with hostile Indians, the first impulse is generally a tremor or
sensation of fear, but that soon wears off; it was so with myself at this mo-
ment, for after a short interval, I nerved myself to encounter the worst.
"The moment we dismounted, we were surrounded, and the savages, giving
two or three war-whoops and yells, drove the animals we had ridden out of our
sight ; this of itself was a hostile movement. We had to judge from appear-
ances, and be guided by circumstances. My first care was to try and direct
their attention to something new, and to get rid of the temptation there was to
dispose of my goods ; so without a moment's delay, I commenced a trade in
horses ; but every horse I bought during that and the following day, as well as
those we had brought with us, were instantly driven out of sight, in the midst
of yelling and jeering; nevertheless, I continued to trade while an article re-
mained, putting the best face on things I could, and taking no notice of their
conduct, as no insult or violence had as yet been offered to ourselves person-
ally. Two days and nights had now elapsed since our arrival, without food or
sleep; the Indians refused us the former, our own anxiety deprived us of the
latter.
"During the third day I discovered that the two women were to have been
either killed or taken from us and made slaves. So surrounded were we for
miles on every side, that we could not stir unobserved ; yet we had to devise
some means for their escape, and to get them clear of the camp was a task of no
ordinary difficulty and danger. In this critical conjuncture, however, something
had to be done, and that without delay. One of them had a child at the breast,
which increased the difficulty. To attempt sending them back by the road they
came, would have been sacrificing them. To attempt an unknown path through
the rugged mountains, however doubtful the issue, appeared the only prospect
that held out a glimpse of hope ; therefore to this mode of escape I directed
their attention. As soon as it was dark, they set out on their forlorn adventure,
without food, guide or protection, to make their way home under a kind Provi-
dence !
" 'You are to proceed,' said I to them, 'due north, cross the mountains, and
keep in that direction till you fall on the Pisscows River; take the first canoe
you find, and proceed with all diligence down to the mouth of it and there await
our arrival. But if we are not there in four days, you may proceed to Oakan-
agan, and tell your story.' With these instructions we parted ; and with but
little hopes of our ever meeting again. I had no sooner set about getting the
women off, than the husbands expressed a wish to accompany them; the desire
was natural, yet I had to oppose it. This state of things distracted my atten-
tion ; my eyes had now to be on my own people as well as on the Indians, as I
was apprehensive they would desert. 'There is no hope for the women by going
alone,' said the husbands, 'no hope for us by remaining here ; we might as well
be killed in the attempt to escape, as remain to be killed here.' 'No,' said I,
'by remaining here we do our duty ; by going, we should be deserting our duty.'
To this remonstrance they made no reply. The Indians soon perceived that
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 151
they had been outwitted. They turned over our baggage, and searched in every
hole and corner. Disappointment creates ill-humour; it was so with the Indians.
They took the men's guns out of their hands, fired them off at their feet, and
then, with savage laughter, laid them down again ; took their hats off their heads,
and after strutting about with these for some time, jeeringly gave them back to
their owners; all this time they never interfered with me, but I felt that every
insult offered to my men was an indirect insult offered to myself.
"The day after the women went oft', I ordered one of the men to try to
cook something for us ; for hitherto we had eaten nothing since our arrival,
except a few raw roots which we managed to get unobserved. But the kettle
was no sooner on the fire than five or six of the warriors with spears bore it off,
in savage triumph, with the contents : they even emptied out the water, and
threw the kettle on one side; and this was no sooner done than thirty or forty
ill-favoured wretches fired a volley in the embers before us, which caused a
cloud of smoke and ashes to ascend, darkening the air around us : a strong hint
not to put a kettle any more on the fire, and we took it.
"At this time the man who had put the kettle on the fire took the knife with
which he had cut the venison to lay it by, when one of the Indians, called
Eyacktana, a bold and turbulent chief, snatched it out of his hand; the man, in
an angry tone, demanded his knife, saying to me, T'll have my knife from the
villain, life or death.' 'No,' said I. The chief seeing the man angry, threw
down his robe, and grasping the knife in his fist, with the point downwards,
raised his arm, making a motion in advance as if he intended using it. The
crisis had now arrived! At this moment there was a dead silence. The Indians
were flocking in from all quarters ; a dense crowd surrounded us. Not a mo-
ment was to be lost ; delay would be fatal, and nothing now seemed to remain
for us but to sell our lives as dearly as possible. With this impression, grasping
a pistol, I advanced a step towards the villain who held the knife, with full
determination of putting an end to his career before any of us should fall ; but
while in the act of lifting my foot and moving my arm, a second idea flashed
into my mind, admonishing me to soothe, and not provoke, the Indians, that
Providence might yet make a way for us to escape; this thought saved the In-
dian's life and ours too. Instead of drawing the pistol, as I intended, I took a
knife from my belt, such as travelers generally use in this country, and pre-
sented it to him, saying, 'Here, my friend, is a chief's knife, I give it to you ;
that is not a chief's knife, give it back to the man.' Fortunately, he took mine
in his hand ; but, still sullen and savage, he said nothing. The moment was a
critical one ; our fate hung on as by a thread ; I shall never forget it ! All the
bystanders had their eyes fixed now on the chief, thoughtful and silent as he
stood ; we also stood motionless, not knowing what a moment might bring
forth. At last the savage handed the man his knife, and turning to his people
holding up the knife in his hand, exclaimed, "Sheaugh. Mc-yokat-Waltz" —
Look, my friends, at the chief's knife: These words he repeated over and over
again. He was delighted. The Indians flocked round him : all admired the toy,
and in the excess of his joy he harangued the multitude in our favour. Fickle
indeed, are the savages ! They were now no longer enemies, but friends ! Sev-
eral others, following Eyacktana's example, harangued in turn, all in favour of
152 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
the whites. This done, the great men squatted themselves down, the pipe ol
peace was called for, and while it was going round and round the smoking,
circle, I gave each of the six principal chiefs a small paper-cased looking-glass
and a little vermilion, as a present; and in return they presented me with two
horses and twelve beavers, while the women brought us a variety of eatables.
"This sudden change regulated my movements. Indeed, I might say the
battle was won. I now made a speech to them, in turn, and as many of them,
understood the language I spoke, I asked them what I should say to the great
white chief when I got home, when he asks me where are all the horses I bought
from you. What shall I say to him? At this question it was easy to see that
their pride was touched. Tell him,' said Eyakctana, 't'hat we have but one
mouth, and one word; all the horses you have bought from us are yours; they
shall be delivered up.' This was just what I wanted. After a little counselling
among themselves, Eyacktana was the first to speak, and he undertook to see
them collected.
"By this time it was sun-down. The chief then mounted his horse, and
desired me to mount mine and accompany him, telling one of his sons to take
my men and property under his charge till our return. Being acquainted with
Indian habits, I knew there would be repeated calls upon my purse, so I put
some trinkets into my pocket, at>d we started on our nocturnal adventure; which
I considered hazardous, but not hopeless.
"Such a night we had! The chief harangued, travelled and harangued, the
whole night; the people replied. We visited every street, alley, hole and corner
of the camp, which we traversed lengthway, crossway, east, west, south and
north, going from group to group, and the call was 'Deliver up the horses.'
Here was gambling, there scalp dancing; laughter in one place, mourning in
another. Crowds were passing to and fro, whooping, yelling, dancing, drum-
ming, singing, men, women and children were huddled together ; flags flying,
horses neighing, dogs howling, cliained bears, tied wolves, grunting and growl-
ing, all pell-mell among the tents; and, to complete the confusion, the night was
dark. At the end of each harangue the chief would approach me, and whisper
in my ear, 'Shc-augh tanitay cnim' — I have spoken well in your favour — a hint
for me to reward his zeal by giving him something. This was repeated con-
stantly, and I gave him each time a string of beads, or two buttons, or two
rings. I often thought he repeated his harangues more frequently than neces-
sary, but it answered his purpose, and I had no choice but to obey and pay.
"At daylight we got back ; my people and property were safe ; and in two
hours after my eighty-five horses were delivered up, and in our possession.
I was now convinced of the chief's influence and had got so well into his good
graces with my beads, buttons, and rings, that I hoped we were out of all our
troubles. Our business being done, I ordered my men to tie up and prepare
for home, which was glad tidings to them. With all this favourable change, we
were much embarrassed and annoyed in our preparations to start. The savages
interrupted us every moment. They jeered the men, frightened the horses, and
kept handling, snapping, and firing off our gims ; asking for this, that, and the
other thing. The men's hats, pipes, belts and knives were constantly in their
hands. They wished to see everything, and everything they saw they wished
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY ' 153
to get, even to buttons on their clothes. Their teasing curiosity had no bounds ;
and every delay increased our difficulties. Our patience was tried a thousand
times ; but at last we got ready and my men started. To amuse the Indians
however, till they could get fairly off, I invited the chiefs to a parley, which I
put to a stop as soon as I thought the men and horses had got clear of the
camp. I then prepared to follow them, when a new difficulty arose. In the
hurry and bustle of starting, my people had left a restive, awkward brute of a
horse for me to ride, wild as a deer, and as full of latent tricks as he was wild.
I mounted at least a dozen times ; in vain I tried to make him advance. He
reared, jumped and plunged; but refused to walk, trot, or to gallop. Every trial
to make him go was a failure. A young conceited fop of an Indian, thinking
he could make more of him than I could, jumped on his back; the horse reared
and plunged as before, when, instead of slackening the bridle as he reared, he
reined it tighter and tighter, till the horse fell right over on his back, and almost
killed the fellow. Here Eyacktana, with a frown, called out, 'kap-sheesh
she-earn — the bad horse — and gave me another; and for the generous act I
gave him my belt, the only article I had to spare. But although the difficuhies
I had with the horse were galling enough to me, they proved a source of great
amusement to the Indians, who enjoyed it with roars of laughter. Before
taking my leave of Eyacktana, it is but justice to say that, with all his faults,
he had many good qualities, and I was under great obligations to him.
"I now made the best of my way out of the camp, and, to make up for
lost time, took a short cut; but for many miles could see nothing of my people,
and began to be apprehensive they had been waylaid and cut off. Getting
to the top of a high ridge, I stopped a little to look about me, but
could see nothing of them. I had not been many minutes there, however,
before I perceived three horsemen coming down an adjacent hill at full tilt.
Taking them for enemies, I descended the height, swam my horse across a
river at the bottom of it, and, taking shelter behind a rock, dismounted to wait
my pursuers. There I primed my rifle anew, and said to myself, "I am sure
of two shots, and my pistols will be more than a match for the other." The
moment they got to the opposite bank, I made signs for them to keep back,
or I would fire on them; but my anxiety was soon removed by their calling
out, "As-nack-shee-lough, as-nack-shee-lough" — your friends, your friends.
These friendly fellows had all the time been lurking about in anxious suspense,
to see what would become of us. Two of them were the very couriers who had,
as already stated, strongly tried to turn us back. I was overjoyed at this
meeting; yet still anxious, as they had seen nothing of my men, to find whom
we all set off, and came up with them a little before sundown. When we first
discovered them they were driving furiously; but all at once the horses stood
still. I suspected something, and told the Indians to remain behind, while I
alone went on to see what was the matter; when, as I had expected, seeing
four riders following them at full gallop, they might receive us: and we should
have met with a warm reception, for McKay, although young, was as brave
as a lion. But they were soon agreeably surprised, and the matter was soon
explained. I then made signs for the Indians to come forward. The moment
we all joined together, we alighted, and changed horses, and drove on until
154 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
midnight, when we took shelter in a small thicket of woods, and passed the
night with our guns in our hands.
"At dawn of day we again set oS; and at three o'clock in the afternoon
reached the banks of the Columbia, some six miles beyond the mouth of the
Pisscows River, where we considered ourselves out of danger. I then started
on ahead, in company of the friendly Indians, to see if the two women had
arrived ; and, as good luck would have it, we found them with a canoe ready
to ferry us across. They had reached the place about an hour before us;
and we will give our readers a brief outline of their adventures."
Perhaps still more vividly illustrating the kind of men that made the first
trails across the wilderness was the experience of John Colter. He had been
a member of the Lewis and Clark party, but on the return he decided to go
trapping in the Rocky Mountains.
After many adventures and changes he fell in with a party headed by
Manuel Lisa, of the Missouri Fur Company. Lisa proceeded with his party
to the mouth of the Bighorn River, and there established a fort. Desiring to
notify the Indians of the arrival of the party, Lisa sent Colter all alone on a
journey of several hundred miles to the Crows, on Wind River, and to the
Blackfeet, at the Three Forks of the Missouri. On this journey Colter became
an unwilling participant in a battle between those two contending tribes. He
was on the side of the Crows, and after rendering efficient aid to his side in
winning a victory, was severely wounded in the leg. Nevertheless, nothing
daunted, he set forth across the ranges of towering, snowy peaks to reach Lisa's
Fort. He succeeded in the solitary and desperate undertaking, and in the course
of it discovered Yellowstone Lake and the geyser region, which now makes
the Yellowstone Park one of the wonders of the world. Returning to the
mountains, Colter was captured by the savage and cruel Blackfeet. Wishing
to have a little sport with their hapless victim, the Indians stripped him and
asked him if he was a fast runner. From his knowledge of their customs he
understood that he was to be put up in a race for life against several hundred
Indians. He gave them to understand that he was a poor runner, though as
a matter of fact he was very fast. Accordingly, they gave him several hundred
yards start on the open prairie, with the Jefferson fork of the Missouri six
miles distant. Away he sped with the whole pack behind him like a band of
wolves, with the war whoop ringing over the plain. With his naked feet torn
and bleeding from cactus, Colter soon outdistanced most of the pursuers, but
half-way across the plain, glancing over his shoulder, he saw that one swift
Indian, armed with a spear, was gaining on him. With the violence of Colter's
exertions the blood was streaming from his nostrils down the front of his
body, and just as the Indian was almost within striking distance Colter sud-
denly stopped and turned, a ghastly spectacle, with extended arms. The Indian
was so disconcerted with the unexpected move that in endeavoring to wield
his spear he lost his footing and fell. Instantly picking up the spear. Colter
pinned his assailant to the ground and on he went again toward the river. The
foremost of the pursuing Indians, finding their expiring comrade, paused long
enough to set up a hideous howl and then rushed on. But Colter, though almost
at the limit of his strength, drove himself on to the river ahead of the band,
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 155
and, breaking through the copse of cottonwoods which skirted the stream, he
plunged in. Just below was a small island against which drift had lodged.
Diving beneath the drift, Colter managed to find a crack between the trees
where he might get his head in the air. There he remained undiscovered all
night, while the savages were shrieking around like so many devils. In the
early morning he let loose from the drift and floated and swam a long ways
down the stream, and when day fairly broke had got beyond the immediate
vicinity of his enemies. But in what a horrid plight! Stark naked, with no
food and no weapons for game, the soles of his feet pierced thick with the
cruel spikes of the cactus! Yet such is the endurance of some men that in
seven days during which his only subsistence was roots dug with his fingers,
Colter made his way to Lisa's Fort. The story was told by Colter to Bradbury,
who narrated it in his book, "Travels in North America." Irving used it in
his "Astoria," and it also appears in Chittenden's "American Fur Trade."
"Such was Life in the Far West."
Hudson's bay company
It is not possible to give lengthy details of the subsequent interesting and
important history of the Hudson's Bay Company, but the part which it enacted
in Oregon history was so great that we must give a brief view of its organiza-
tion in Oregon with its capital at Vancouver.
We have already mentioned the important fact that in 1821 the two great
Canadian companies, the North-West and the Hudson's Bay, decided to
unite. With the union, the great era of fur trade in the Columbia Basin fairly
began, to continue about twenty-five years, yielding then to the American immi-
grant. That twenty-five years of the dominance of the great Fur Company
contained nearly all the poetry and romance as well as the profit and states-
manship of the business. The entire region of the River, as well as that of the
Puget Sound country, was mapped out in a most systematic manner with one
chief central fort, Vancouver on the Columbia. A more magnificent location
for the purpose cannot be conceived. It is now the site of a flourishing city
and of the United States Fort Headquarters for the Northwest, generally
conceded to be the finest fort location in the United States. At this date, 1918,
it is headquarters for gathering air-plane spruce lumber. Fort Vancouver
was established in 1825, upon a superb bench of land gently sloping back from
the river for two miles. Great trees fringed the site. Mount Hood lifted its pin-
nacled majesty sixty miles to the eastward, the sinuous mazes of the Willamette
Valley stretched out far southward, while the lordly river was in full view
a dozen miles up and down. Every natural advantage and delight which wild
nature could ofifer was here in fullness. Ships could readily ascend the hundred
miles from the ocean to unload their merchandise and take on their cargoes
of precious furs, the furs collected at the outlay of so much toil and suflfering
over the area of hundreds of miles. Every species of fish and game abounded
in the waters and along the banks of the river. Deer and elk tossed their
antlers between the stately firs of the upland and pheasants and grouse whirred
among the branches. Geese, cranes, ducks and swans, in countless numbers.
156 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
darkened the lagoon amid the many islands enclosed by the mouths of the
Willamette and the adjacent water of the larger stream. Fish of many varie-
ties, the royal Chinook salmon, king of food fish, being at the head in beauty
and edibility, though surpassed in size by the gigantic sturgeon, which some-
times weighed a thousand pounds, abounded in the river. No epicure of the
world's capitals could command such viands as nature brought to the doors
of the denizens of Fort Vancouver.
The fort itself was laid out on a scale of amplitude suitable to the spacious-
ness of the site. It was enclosed with a picket wall twenty feet high, with
massive buttresses of timber inside. This enclosure was a parallelogram seven
hundred and fifty by five hundred feet. Inside were about forty buildings, the
Governor's residence of generous dimensions being in the center. Two chapels
provided for the spiritual needs of the company, while schoolhouse, stores,
"bachelors' halls," and ships of various kinds attested the variety of the needs.
Along the bank of the river, outside the enclosure, lay quite a village of cot-
tages for the married employes, together with hospital, boathouses, granaries,
warehouses, threshing mills, and dairy buildings.
Taken altogether Fort Vancouver was the model fort of the western slope.
Moreover, the fertile soil and genial, humid climate soon encouraged the fac-
tors of the company to experiment with gardens and orchards, and, within a
few years after founding, fifteen hundred acres of land were in the finest state
of productivity, while three thousand head of cattle, twenty-five hundred sheep,
three hundred brood mares, and over a hundred milch cows, added their boun-
teous contributions to the already plentiful resources of the fort.
With this rich larder, with the spacious buildings, with the annual arrivals
and departures of ships by sea and fleets of bateaux by river, with hunting
trips and Indian policies, with the intercoast traffic with the Russians on the
north and the Spaniards on the south, there was as much to engage and delight
the minds of these people as if they had lived in the heart of civilization.
Any account of Fort Vancouver would be incomplete without some refer-
ence to Dr. John McLoughlin, chief factor of the company in the Columbia
district from 1824 to the time of his retirement from the company in 1846 and
settlement at Oregon City, Oregon, as an American citizen. Rarely has any
one in the stormy history of the Columbia Basin received such unvarying and
unqualified praise as has this truly great man. Physically, mentally, and morally,
Doctor McLoughlin was altogether the king of the fur traders. Six feet four
inches in height, his noble and expressive face crowned with a great cascade
of snowy hair, firm yet kindly, prompt and business-like yet sympathetic and
helpful, "White Eagle," as the Indians called him, was a true-born king of
men.
We have said that Fort Vancouver was the great central fort. Others
commanding the pivotal points upon the river and its tributaries were Fort
Hall and Fort Boise on the Snake, Spokane House on the Spokane near the
present metropolis of the Inland Empire, Fort Colville on the Columbia River
at Kettle Falls, Columbia, Fort Okanogan at the junction of the stream of that
name with the Great River, Fort Owen in the Coeur d' Alene region. Fort
Walla Walla, first known as Fort Nez Perce, on the Columbia at the mouth of
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 157
the Walla Walla, and Fort George on the former site of Astoria. These forts
were all laid out in the same general fashion as Fort Vancouver, though no one
was so large, elaborate, or comfortable. Besides the forts there were a number
of small trading posts. The chief furs procured in the interior were beaver,
and those on the coast were sea-otter. Many others, as the mink, sharp-toothed
otter, fox, lynx and raccoon, were found in abundance.
The profits of the business were immense. Alexander Ross relates that
he secured one morning before breakfast one hundred and ten beaver skins for
a single yard of white cloth. Ross spent one hundred and eighty-eight days
alone in the Okanogan country. During that time he collected one thousand
five hundred and fifty beavers, besides other peltries, worth in the Canton market
two thousand two hundred and fifty pounds, which cost him in his objects of
trade only thirty-five pounds. That was while Ross was connected with the
Astor Company.
In completing this necessarily hurried chapter on the fascinating era of the
fur traders, we cannot omit a brief reference to the movements of the regular
brigades of boats up and down the river, for these comprised a great part of
both the business and the romance of the age. The course of these brigades was
from the southern shores of Hudson Bay, through Manitoba, to the crest of the
Rockies at the head of the Columbia. Water was utilized to the greatest possible
extent, while at the portages and across the mountains horse-power and man-
power were employed. Once afloat upon the Columbia, the brigades braved
most of the rapids, paying occasional toll of men and goods to the envious dei-
ties of the waters, yet with marvelous skill and general good fortune making
their way down the thousand or more miles from Boat Encampment to Fort
Vancouver. The descent was easy compared with the ascent. The first journey
of the east-bound brigade of the North-Westers from Astoria to Montreal was
in 1814, and it required the time from April 4th to May Uth to reach the mouth
of Canoe River, the point at which they entered upon the mountain climb to
the head of the Athabasca.
The boatmen were French-Canadians, a hardy, mercurial, light-hearted
race, half French, with the natural grace and politeness of their race, and having
the pleasant patois which has made them the theme of much popular present-
day literature. They were half Indian, either in tastes and manners or in blood,
with the atmosphere of forests and streams clinging to every word and gesture.
They were perhaps the best boatmen in the world. Upon those matchless lakes
into which the Columbia and its tributaries expand at intervals the fur-laden
boats would glide at ease, while the wild songs of the coureurs des bois would
echo from shore to shore in lazy sibilations, apparently betokening no thought
of serious or earnest business. But once the rapids were reached, the gay and
rollicking knight of the paddle became all attention. With keen eyes fixed on
every swirl or rock, he guided the light craft with a ready skill which would be
inconceivable to one less daring and experienced. The brigades would run
almost all the rapids from Death Rapids to the sea, making portages at Kettle
Falls, Tumwater or Celilo Falls, and the Cascades, though at some stages of
the water they could run down even them except Kettle Falls. They always
had to carry around those points in ascending the river. In spite of all the skill
158 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
of the voyageurs the Columbia and the Snake, the Pend Oreille and the Koo-
tenai, have exacted a heavy toll of life from those who have laid their compell-
ing hands upon the white manes of chute and cataract. Many, even of the
voyageurs, are the human skeletons that have whitened the volcanic beds of the
great stream.
THE BOATS OF THE TRADERS
The boats used by the fur brigades were either log canoes obtained of the
Indians or bateaux. The former were hollowed from the magnificent cedars
which grew on the banks of the river, sometimes fifty or sixty feet long, with
prow carved in fantastic, even beautiful fashion. They would hold from six to
twenty persons with from half a ton to two or three tons of load, yet were so
light that two men could carry one of the medium size while four could handle
one of any size around a portage. But the voyageurs never took quite so much
to the canoes as did the Indians, whose skill in handling them in high waves is
described by Ross and Franchere as something astonishing. And even the In-
dians of the present show much the same ability, though the splendid cedar
canoes are no longer made, and only here and there can one of the picturesque
survivors be seen.
The bateaux were boats of peculiar shape, being built very high and broad
so thai in an unloaded condition they seemed to rest on the water almost like a
paper shell. Both ends were high and pointed as prows. They were propelled
with oars and steered with paddles. One of the usual size was about thirty
feet long and five feet wide. Being light-draft, double-enders, capable of hold-
ing large loads and yet easily conveyed around portages, more steady and roomy
than canoes, these bateaux were the typical Columbia River medium of com-
merce during the era of the fur traders. They, too, have mainly vanished
from the scenes of their former glory. Canoes, bateaux, cries and yells of In-
dians, songs of voyageurs, have gone into the engulfing limbo of the bygone,
along with the keen-eyed Scotch factor and the sharp-featured Yankee skipper.
Yet the swans and geese and ducks still darken the more placid expanses of the
river and the salmon still start the widening circles in almost undiminished
numbers, while the glaciated heights of Hood and Adams and St. Helens (we
would rather say Wiyeast, Pahtou and Loowit) still stand guard over the un-
changing water.
LATER .\MERICAN FUR TRADERS
While the British fur interest in Oregon completely triumphed over the
American, large and influential companies were organized and carried on in
the Rocky Mountains with energy and success by the latter people, the chief
outfitting point being St. Louis. The chief of these companies having any
sphere of operations within the territory of the Snake and Columbia rivers were
the Missouri Fur Company and the Rocky Mountain Fur Company already
spoken of. The Missouri, however, was their main field of operations. The
elaborate history by Gen. H. M. Chittenden, referred to on a preceding page,
gives a complete view of these companies and their chief managers. The limits
of our space forbid more than a brief summary of the achievements of four
men who may be looked upon as typical of the fur traders, hunters, and trail-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 159
makers whom we are trying to portray. These four men were William H.
Ashley, Jedadiah Smith, Nathaniel Wyeth, and B. L. E. Bonneville.
The first named was a native of Virginia, and went from his native state
to St. Louis in 1802. He "grew up with the country," and became very prom-
inent in the affairs of that then crude and wild region. He became lieutenant-
governor in 1820, general in command of the state troops in 1822, and a member
of Congress in 1831, serving three terms. In 1822 he formed a partnership in
the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, with Andrew Henry, who had, as we have
noted, been previously a member of the Missouri Fur Company, and had
built Fort Henry on the upper Snake. Ashley carried out the business of ex-
ploration on the Missouri and Green rivers, and in the Salt Lake Basin with
such energy and general success (though with some serious misfortunes and
with Indian troubles), as to acquire an ample fortune for himself and to serve
a most important part in discovery in the Rocky Mountain region and the Salt
Lake Basin. In 1826, Ashley drove the first wheeled vehicle of any kind, a
wagon with a six pounder cannon, up the North Platte, through South Pass
to Utah Lake. In this connection it is interesting to recall that Milton Sub-
lette, a member of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, went from St. Louis,
leaving that point April 10, 1830, with eighty-one men mounted on mules, and
with ten wagons drawn by five mules each, to the rendezvous on Wind River.
That may be regarded as the initiation of the Oregon Trail, later the scene of
the "great trek" of the American people to take possession of the Pacific Coast.
Jedadiah Smith was perhaps the most interesting and unique of all the
noted fur traders and trail-makers. The main operations of the Rocky Moun-
tain Company of which Smith was a member were on the upper Missouri,
Green River, and Salt Lake. Smith, however, made several most remarkable
journeys to California and Oregon. He was a very unique character, a devout
Christian ariQ yet one of the boldest of traders and discoverers. He might be
said to have carried the Bible in one hand and his rifle in the other. He usually
began the day with devotions and expected his men to be present. Yet he
pushed his business and discoveries to the limit. His first great trip was in
1826. He proceeded from Great Salt Lake to the Colorado, thence across Ari-
zona and southern California, to San Diego, a route unknown to whites before.
After going up and down California hundreds of miles he crossed the moun-
tains and deserts eastward the next Summer, following a more northern route
abounding in perils and hardship. In 1827 the journey to California was re-
peated almost immediately upon his return from the first. In the Spring and
Summer of 1828, he struck out on an entirely new course. This was up the
Sacramento and northwesterly across the lofty ranges of southern Oregon to-
the Umpqua on the Oregon Coast. There with his nineteen men he did suc-
cessful trapping, but a difficulty with the Indians resulted in the massacre of
the whole party except himself and three others. Those three being separated'
from the leader, he made his way in utter destitution and with great suffering
to the Hudson's Bay Fort at Vancouver. Dr. John McLoughlin, the chief
factor, with his usual generosity supplied the survivors of this disaster with
their vital necessities and sent a well-armed party to secure the valuable furs
of which the Umpquas had robbed them. Most of the furs were brought to
160 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Vancouver and McLoughlin paid Smith $2,000.00 for them. Remaining in
Vancouver till March, 1829, Smith made his way up the Columbia to the
Flathead country and thence along the Rocky Mountains to the Teton Range
on the upper Snake River. This vast series of routes by Jedadiah Smith
through Utah, New Mexico, Nevada, Arizona, California, Oregon, Washington,
Idaho, Wyoming and Colorado, was the most extensive that had yet been taken
and did more than any other to give a comprehensive view of what became the
west third of the United States. In 1831, lamentable to relate, this truly heroic
and enterprising master-trapper was killed by Comanche Indians on the Cimar-
ron Desert.
Nathaniel Jarvis Wyeth and Benjamin Louis Eulalie Bonneville were
practically contemporary, and in their adventurous careers crossed each other's
trails. Wyeth was born at Cambridge, Massachusetts, and from the traditions
of the family should have been a graduate of Harvard College. He was, how-
ever, so eager to enter some active career that he did not complete a college
course. He became quite fascinated with the Utopian idea about Oregon given
to the world by Hall J. Kelley, and in 1832 he started upon a grand enterprise
toward the setting sun. He had conceived a general plan of a vast emporium
of American business in furs and salmon, similar to that of Astor. With an
ardent imagination and yet great practical good sense, Wyeth had the material
for an empire builder. That he failed to fulfill his grand design was due partly
to sheer bad luck, but mainly to the invincible monopoly of the Hudson's Bay
Company. The work of Wyeth was, however, an essential link in the great
chain which finally led to American ownership of Oregon. The first trip of
Wyeth was in 1832. He crossed the mountains in company with Sublette, a
noted trapper of the Rocky Mountain Company, and after some disasters with
the Indians, he traversed the Blue Mountains and reached Fort Walla Walla
(the present Wallula) in October. Pierre Pambrun was the Hudson's Bay
Company's agent at Walla Walla and he received the destitute and nearly fam-
ished Americans with lavish hospitality. After recuperating a few days at
Walla W'alla, Wyeth descended the Columbia, with unabated enthusiasm, ex-
pecting to find the ship which had left Boston in the Spring, well laden with
stores, already waiting his arrival. But alas for human hopes! When he
reached Fort Vancouver he learned that his vessel had been wrecked. His men
had already suffered much and lost faith in the lucky star of their leader and
asked to be reheved from further service. He was compelled perforce to
grant their request, for he had no money. Spending the Winter in and around
Vancouver, treated by McLoughlin with utmost kindness, and acquiring much
knowledge and experience, but no money, the indomitable Yankee determined
to return and raise another fund and challenge fate and his rivals again. Feb-
ruary, 1833, found him again at Walla Walla. Thence he pursued a devious
course to Spokane and Colville, across the Divide, down the mountains to the
Tetons on the upper Snake, where he fell in with Bonneville. First planning
to go with Bonneville to California, Wyeth suddenly decided to return to
Boston and make ready for an immediate new expedition to Oregon. He made
an extraordinary voyage down the Bighorn and finally down the Missouri to
St. Louis in a "bull-boat." Safely reaching Boston in November, he brought
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 161
all his contagious enthusiasm to bear on certain moneyed men with the result
that he organized a new company known as the Columbia River Fishing and
Trading Company. A new vessel, the "May Dacre," was outfitted for the voy-
age around Cape Horn to Oregon.
Again with new men and equipment and with such experience from his
former journey as made success seem sure, Wyeth started on his new expedi-
tion from St. Louis on April 3, 1834. One interesting feature of this journey
■was that two conspicuous scientists, Thomas Nuttall and J. K. Townsend, and
the advance guard of the missionaries, Jason Lee and party of the Methodist
Church, accompanied the party. But even though better equipped than before
and though seemingly having the sanction of both Science and the Church to
bless his aims, the same old ill-fortune seemed to travel with him. He had
brought, under a contract made on his return the year before, a valuable stock
of goods for the Sublettes of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, and now
when on reaching their rendezvous he made ready to deliver the goods brought
with so much toil and expense, the Sublettes refused to receive them. Their
•company was, in fact, at the point of dissolution. Though Wyeth had the
forfeit money that they had put up with the contract, that was small recompense
for his labor of transportation. But nothing daunted, the stout-hearted pro-
moter declared to the Sublettes, "I will roll a stone into your garden which
you will never be able to get out." In fulfillment of his threat he prepared to
invade their territory by building a fort in which to store the rejected goods
and from which to send his trappers to all parts of the upper Snake. The fort
thus established was the famous Fort Hall, the most notable fort on the whole
route, in the near vicinity of the present Pocatello. In spite of delays, the party
seems to have traveled with unparalleled celerity, for leaving Fort Hall they
reached the Grande Ronde on August 31st, a date at which previous parties
had hardly reached the head of Snake River. In the Grande Ronde the party
again encountered Bonneville. Three days more saw them at Walla Walla, and
on September 6th, Wyeth was once more at Vancouver. Here came misfortune
number two. He had expected to find the "May Dacre" already in the river
with a good haul of salmon which they planned to salt and take east on the
return trip. But the vessel reached Vancouver the next day after Wyeth's own
arrival, too late for any effective fishing that year. She had been struck by
lightning and had lost three months' time in repairs. With indefatigable energy.
Wyeth inaugurated his plans. He sent a detail of men to Fort Hall with sup-
plies. He conducted an extensive trapping expedition to central Oregon up the
Des Chutes River. He built Fort William on Sauvie's Island. If any one
ever deserved success, Wyeth did. But Doctor McLoughlin, though the kindest
of men and though personally wishing every success to Wyeth, could not forget
that he was responsible to the Hudson's Bay Company. He underbid Wyeth
for the Indian trade and headed him off at every turn in opening new regions.
Nothing but a purse as long as that of the Hudson's Bay Company could have
stood the pressure. Worst of all, a pestilence broke out among the Indians
from which they died like flies and from which some of Wyeth's own men
perished. The Indians attributed the scourge to the evil "Tomanowas" of the
"Bostons" and absolutely boycotted them. The brave fight was lost. Bad luck
(11)
162 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
and the Hudson's Bay Company were too much for this all-deserving Yankee.
Wyeth threw up his hands, sold out to the Hudson's Bay Company for what
they would give, yielding to them possession of his cherished Fort Hall, which
became one of their most advantageous posts, and made his way baffled but by
no means disheartened, to his New England home. With his downfall it be-
came clear that no ordinary force could dispossess the great British company
from its vantage ground in Oregon.
But meanwhile Bonneville was upholding the Stars and Stripes as valor-
ously, but not more successfully, than Wyeth. Bonneville was a Frenchman
who came to New York in his youth, and who had most influential friends, and
had also the extreme good fortune of attracting the favorable notice of Wash-
ington Irving and becoming the hero of one of the most fascinating books of
that leading American writer, "Bonneville's Adventures." Through this intro-
duction to the reading public, greedy in those days for tales of the romance
and adventure of the Far-West, Bonneville acquired a fame and vogue and
became invested with a certain glamour beyond that of any of the fur traders
of Old Oregon. By the favor and influence of Thomas Paine, Bonneville had
earlier become a West Point appointee and graduated in 1819. When La Fay-
ette came to America in 1825 Bonneville was detailed to accompany the "Hero
of Two Continents" on his tour of the States. Greatly pleased with his young
compatriot. La Fayette took him back to France on his return, and for several
years the young French-American was a member of the household of that great
man. Returning to the land of his adoption and resuming his army connec-
tions, Bonneville became absorbed with the idea that he might gratify both his
love of adventure and of money by entering the fur trade in the Far-West.
Securing from the War Department an appointment as a special explorer of
new lands and investigator of the Indian tribes, he was also allowed to make a
personal venture in the fur trade.
H. H. Bancroft in his "Pacific Coast Historj'" viciously attacks Bonneville
as well as Irving who immortalized him. General Chittenden in his "History
of the American Fur-Trade in the Far-West" defends both in a very spirited
and successful manner.
The series of expeditions undertaken by Bonneville extended over the
years 1833-5. Those years were replete with adventure, hardship, romance of
a sort, but very little success in the quest for furs. In the course of those
years the adventurous army ofificer traversed and retraversed the country cov-
ered by the watersheds of the Snake River and its tributaries. Green River and
the Colorado, the Great Salt Lake Basin, and down the Columbia. One of the
most valuable journeys of his party was through the Humboldt Basin, across
the Sierras and into California, a new route somewhat similar to the earlier one
of Jedadiah Smith. That, however, was commanded not by Bonneville him-
self, but by I. R. Walker, Bonneville's most valued assistant. The most inter-
esting part of Bonneville's expedition to the inhabitants of eastern Washington
was his Winter trip from the Grande Ronde to the "Wayleway" (Wallowa),
down the Snake to the present vicinity of Asotin, thence across the prairies of
what is now Garfield and Columbia counties, to Walla Walla. He describes
that region as one of rare beauty and apparent fertility and predicts that it will;
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY ' 163.
some time be the scene of high cuhivation and settlement. Reaching Fort Walla
Walla, he was received by Pierre Pambrun with the same courtesy which that
commandant had bestowed on Wyeth, but when he tried to secure supplies for
his depleted equipment, Pambrun assured him that he would have to draw the
line at anything which would foster the American fur trade. Like Wyethy
Bonneville discovered to his sorrow and cost that he was "up against" an im-
movable wall of monopoly of the hugest and most inflexible aggregation of
capital in the western hemisphere. He could not compete at Walla Walla. De-
scending the Columbia River he found the same iron barrier of monopoly. He,
too, threw up his hands. The American fur traders were at the end of their
string. They retired and left the great monopoly in undisputed possession.
Thus ends, in American defeat, this first combat for possession of Oregon.
Another combat and another champion for the Americans was due. Exit the
trapper. Enter the missionary. Another chapter and we shall see what the
new actor could do and did do on the grand stage of Oregon history.
SOME UNIQUE FREE TRAPPERS
We should not fail to mention here three men of unique character, wha
were for many years "free trappers" in the Rocky Mountains and became per-
manent residents of Oregon, well known to old-timers in Oregon. A few even
of the present inhabitants of Yakima no doubt have seen them, while a larger
number are familiar with their names and deeds through the memories of parents
or grandparents. These three men were Joe Meek, "Doctor" Robert Newell,
and "Squire" George W. Ebberts. The first was a character sure enough. The
author of this work when a boy saw Joe Meek many times and has regarded him
as naturally one of the brightest men that he ever knew, though without edu-
cation or an environment of a character suited to develop his larger qualities.
He was one who "saved the day" in a certain measure at the time of the famous
meeting at Champoeg, Oregon, in 1843, when the settlers met to discuss the
question of a provisional government, pending the determination of whether
they should decide to establish an American or a British connection. The ques-
tion hung in the balance and so nearly were the two sides divided that the
leader of neither hardly dared call for a vote, when Meek rose to his lofty
stature (even in old age he had about the finest physique that the author ever
saw) and in a stentorian voice shouted out: "Who's in favor of a divide? All
that want to join the Americans follow me!" The spell was broken. The
Americans fell in behind the former trapper, and by fifty-two to fifty, the
assemblage declared its preference for the Stars and Stripes. That was one of
the big days in Oregon historj'.
Later Meek made a Winter journey across the mountains to convey news
of the Whitman Massacre to the Government at Washington. He called him-
self "Envoy Extraordinary' and IMinister Plenipotentiary from the Republic of
Oregon to the Government of the United States." He returned with the
appointment as first United States marshal in Oregon. While well fitted for
the militant and muscular duties of his ofifice he was hardly fitted for its clerical
and book-keeping end. His accounts were hopelessly confused at one time
164 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
and having been questioned in court as to what had become of certain funds,
he repHed with the utmost sang froid and innocence, "Why, thar was barly
enough for the offilcers!" a phrase which was a by- word in Oregon for many
years.
Newell was almost as much of a character as Meek, but not so witty. A
special thing to remember of him is the fact that he drove the first wagon across
the Blue Mountains and into the Walla Walla Valley. That was in 1840. It
should be remembered, however, that Marcus Whitman, the missionary and
physician, had driven a wagon from St. Louis to Fort Boise in 1836. Whitman
covered more new ground than any other of the first roadmakers of Oregon
and without question overcame more obstacles and is more nearly entitled to the
credit of being the first to demonstrate the feasibility of driving wagons to the
Pacific, than any other.
"Squire" Ebberts was a plainer and less unique personage than either Meek
or Newell, but well sustained his character as one of the trappers and trail-
makers of Old Oregon.
Such must suffice for such a view as our limits permit of the period covered
by the era of the trapi>ers.
In closing this chapter we desire to give a glance at the authors from whom
we derive the history of the early American trappers.
The literature pertaining to the Hudson's Bay Company is much more ex-
tensive and we shall make no effort here to enumerate its representatives. The
chief original sources for our knowledge of the ocean journey of the Astor
party, the founding of Astoria, and the prosecution of the fur trade in Walla
Walla, Okanogan, Spokane, Yakima, Boise, and diiiferent parts of Snake River,
are Gabriel Franchere, Alexander Ross, Ross Cox and Peter Corney.
The same writers narrate parts of the events of Hunt's land journey,
though not themselves in the party, while for the early parts of the journey the
chief authority is found in the journals of Bradbury and Nuttall, English
naturalists who accompanied the party a portion of its course. Our knowledge
of the doings of Smith, Ashley, Sublette, and others, is found in their various
letters and reports, and these are most admirably exhibited in the authoritative
work of General Chittenden, several times cited in this chapter. Over parts
of the miscellaneous careers of the participants in that history, Washington
Irving has cast the glow of his genius and in "Astoria," "Bonneville's Adven-
tures," and the "Fur Traders of the West," he has provided a picture gallery
of that era, incomparable in beauty of style and vividness of portraiture. Ban-
croft has covered the period in his vast compendium. With much accumulation
of valuable data he has distinguished himself by his sour and ill-founded criti-
cisms of Irving. Any admirer of Irving who desires to see a due castigation
of Bancroft may be gratified by reading Chapter XIV in Volume I of Chitten-
den. Nothing is left to be desired in a suitable flaying of the ill-natured and
voluminous compiler of the "Native Races," and other parts of Pacific Coast
history. It may be added that while Bancroft is certainly worthy of an honor-
able place as a collector of historical data, so much of his use of it is ill-judged
and ill-executed that one can at times heartilv encore the sentiment of Ambrose
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY s 165
Bierce, that most caustic and brilliant of California writers, in regard to his
fellow-townsman Bancroft. It happened once in San Francisco that a man
named Bancroft died suddenly. The report at first was that it was H. H. Ban-
croft, the author. It proved to be a stranger, and Bierce expressed his sym-
pathy with the country on the fact that
"Death came so near, but missed the mark.
And did his awful work so ill
That Hubert H. is living still."
CHAPTER VI
THE MISSIONARY PERIOD
THE "book of life" — FIRST CHRISTIAN CRUSADERS MRS. WHITMAN'S DIARY
THE WHITMAN CONTROVERSY LOVEJOY's LETTER WHITMAN'S LETTER TO
SECRETARY PORTER MRS. PRINGLE ON WHITMAN THE WHITMAN MASSACRE
ST. JOSEPH MISSION BURNED.
In the preceding chapter we learned that the various attempts of American
trappers and fur companies to control the fur trade of Oregon failed.
The Hudson's Bay Company was too firmly entrenched in its vast domain
to be loosened by any business of its own kind. Nor would there have been any
special advantage to the United States or the world in dislodging the great
British company and substituting an American enterprise of the same sort.
The aim and policy of all fur companies were the same : i. e., to keep the coun-
try a wilderness, to trade with the natives and derive a fortune from the lavish
bounty of the wild animal life.
The Hudson's Bay Company was as good as any enterprise of its type
could be.
The unfortunate fact was not so much that it was the British who were
skimming the cream of the wilderness, as that the regime of any fur company
was necessarily antagonistic to that incoming tide of settlers who would bring
with them the home, the ship, the road, the church, the school, — in short, civ-
ilization. Hence the necessary poHcy of the great fur company was to discour-
age immigration, or, in fact, any form of enterprise which would utilize the
latent agricultural, pastoral, and manufacturing resources of Oregon. This
policy existed, in spite of the fact (of which we shall see many illustrations
later) that individual managers and officers of the company were often of broad
and benevolent character and predisposed to extend a cordial welcome to the
advance guard of American immigration.
A few stray Americans had drifted to Oregon and California with the
hope of inaugurating enterprises that would lead to American occupation. In
general, however, the land beyond the Rockies was as dark a continent as
Africa.
THE "book of life"
But in 1832 a strange and interesting event occurred whicli unlocked the
gates of the Western Wilderness and led in a train of conditions which made
American settlement and ownership a logical result. In 1832 a party of four
Indians from the Far- West appeared at St. Louis on a strange quest ; seeking
the "White Man's Book of Life." Efiforts have been made by certain recent
writers to belittle or discredit this event, for no very apparent reason unless it
166
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 167
be that general disposition of some of the so-called critical school of investi-
gators to spoil anything that appeals to the gentler or nobler emotions, and
especially to oppose the idea that men are susceptible of any motives of re-
ligion or human sympathy or any other spirit than the mercenary and mate-
rialistic. But there can be no question about the journey of these four Indians,
nor can there be any reasonable doubt that their aim was to secure religious
instruction for their people. The details of the journey and the nature of the
expectations of the tribe and of the envoys might of course be variably under-
stood and stated, but the general statements given by rehable contemporary
authorities are not open to doubt.
To what tribe the Indians belonged seems uncertain. It has been stated
by some that they were Flatheads. That tribe, though quite widely dispersed
had their principal habitat in what is now northern Idaho and northwestern
Montana. Miss Kate McBeth, for many years a missionary to the Nez Perce
Indians, and located at Kamiah and then at Lapwai, near Lewiston, thought
that three of the Indians were Nez Perces and one a Flathead.
Nor is it known how those Indians got the notion of zk "Book of Life."
Bonneville states in his journal that Pierre Pambrun, the agent at Fort
Walla Walla, taught the Indians the rudiments of Catholic worship. Some
have conjectured that the American trapper, Jedadiah Smith, a devout Chris-
tion, may have imparted religious instruction. Miss McBeth formed the im-
pression that their chief hope was that they might find Lewis and Clark, whose
journey in 1805-6 had produced a profound effect on the Nez Perces.
It is interesting to note that Clark was at the very time of this visit of the
Indians, the superintendent of Indian affairs at St. Louis. He has left no state-
ment as to the location of these Indians, though he referred to the fact of their
visit to several persons who have recorded his statements.
The first published account of this visit appeared in the New York "Chris-
tian Advocate" of March 1, 1833. This was in the form of a letter from G. P.
Disoway, who had charge of the removal of certain Indians to a reservation
west of St. Louis. In his letter Disoway enclosed one from William Walker,
an interpreter for the Wyandotte Indians. Walker had met the four Indians
in General Clark's office in St. Louis. He was impressed with their appear-
ance, and learned that General Clark had given them some account of the
origin and history of man, of the coming of the Savior, and of His work for
the salvation of men. According to Walker two of the Indians died in St.
Louis. As to whether the others reached their home he did not know. The
first account was confirmed in a most valuable way by George Catlin, the noted
painter and student of Indian life. He was making a journey up the Missouri
River on one of the first steamers to ascend that stream to Fort Benton. In
the Smithsonian Report for 1885 can be found Catlin's account, as follows:
"These two men, when I painted them, were in beautiful Sioux dresses which
had been presented to them in a talk with the Sioux, who treated them very
kindly, while passing through the Sioux countr}'. These two men were part of
a delegation that came across the mountains to St. Louis a few years since, to
inquire for the truth of the representations which they said some white men
168 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
had made among them, that our rehgion was better than theirs, and that they
would all be lost if they did not embrace it.
"Two old and venerable men of this party died in St. Louis, and I trav-
eled two thousand miles, companion with these two fellows, toward their own
country, and became much pleased with their manners and dispositions. When
I first heard the objects of their extraordinary mission across the mountains,
I could scarcely believe it; but on conversing with General Clark on a future
occasion, I was fully convinced of the fact."
Rather curiously Catlin speaks of these Indians as being Flatheads or
Nez Perces, as though the two tribes were identical.
The letter by Disoway in the "Christian Advocate" was discussed in "The
Illinois Patriot" of October, 1833, together with the statement that the subject
had excited so much interest that a committee of the Illinois Synod had been
appointed to report on the duty of the churches. The committee went to St.
Louis and conferred with General Clark, receiving from him a confirmation of
the report.
When this pathetic story, together with the stirring appeal of the commit-
tee, had reached the Christian people of the countrj^, it produced a profound
impression. The decades of the Twenties and Thirties were a time of deep
religious sentiment. It was the beginning of the missionary movements of the
century. To the sensitive souls of the time this unheralded call from the Far-
West seemed a veritable Macedonian cry. From it sprang the Christian mis-
sions of Oregon. And the missionaries were the advance guard of immigration.
And the immigration decided that the American home builder and farmer
should own Oregon, rather than that the British fur trader and the Indians
should keep it as a game preserve and fur depot. It would indeed be too much
to say that American ownership of Oregon would not have resulted, if it had
not been for the missionaries. But it may safely be said that the acquisition
would have been delayed and that there would have been many more chances
of failure, if the missionaries had not fitted into the evolution of the drama
just as, and just when, they did. The missionary period was an essential one,
coming between that of the fur traders and that of the immigrants.
While the scope of our undertaking requires us to confine our narration
mainly to the area covered in this history, yet in order to preserve the histori-
cal continuity and to exhibit the forces which led to the subsequent develop-
ments, we must enlarge the picture enough to include a glimpse of the mission
locations outside of Yakima.
FIRST CHRISTIAN CRUS.\DERS
The first of the Christian crusaders to respond to the Macedonian call
from Oregon was a party under Jason Lee of the Methodist Church. This
party came to Oregon in 1834 in company with Nathaniel Wyeth, the Ameri-
can trader. Reaching Vancouver, the missionaries presented themselves to
Doctor McLoughlin, the chief factor. He met them with every expression of
generous good-will and advised them to locate in the Willamette Valley rather
than among the tribes from whom had proceeded the Macedonian call. As a
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY > 169
result, Lee with his assistants located at Chemawa, near the present Salem,
Oregon.
From that mission sprang the first permanent American settlement, the
native name of which was Chemeketa, Place of Council, or Peace Ground. The
missionaries gave it the Bible equivalent, Salem, a proceeding of more piety than
good judgment. The Willamette LTniversity of the present is the offspring
of the school started by the missionaries for the Indian children and within
a few years modified so as to meet the needs of the white children. For that
earliest mission, like the later, discovered that the great work, after all, must
be for the white race, not for the Indians.
The next year after the coming of the Lee party, another movement was
initiated which was destined to have a most intimate connection with Oregon
history. In 1835 Dr. Marcus Whitman, in company with Dr. Samuel Parker,
set forth on a reconnaissance to determine the advisability of locating a mission
among the Indians from whom had gone the Macedonian call. Reaching Green
River, the outlook seemed so encouraging that it was decided to part company.
Dr. Parker continuing westward with Indians who had met them at Green
River, while Dr. Whitman, the younger and more active of the two, returned
to his home in Rushville, New York, and there organized a missionary band.
As a result of Dr. Whitman's return, a party consisting of himself and
his bride, Narcissa Prentiss, and Rev. H. H. Spalding and his newly wedded
bride, Eliza Hart, set forth in 1836 for Oregon. With them was William H.
Gray as secular agent and general manager. With the party also were two
Indian boys who had accompanied Dr. Whitman the year before on his return
from Green River.
This bridal journey of 4,000 miles, most of it on horseback, has been
often described. Aside from the momentous results in the history of Oregon
and the United States, the story is one of heroism and devotion which had few
parallels, and the record closes with a martyr's crown for Marcus and Narcissa
Whitman.
MRS. whitman's diary
Among the precious relics in Whitman College are Mrs. Whitman's diary
and that of Mrs. Spalding, of the journey. That of Mrs. Whitman was made
by herself from notes on the way and was sent from Vancouver to her parents
upon the completion of the journey. Its heading is as follows: — "Narcissa
Whitman's Diary of a Missionary Tour West of the Rocky Mountains Per-
formed in 1836. Being the first white female ever beyond the mountains on the
continent. The journey was performed on horseback a distance of 4,000 miles.
She, in company with her husband, Marcus Whitman, M. D., and H. H. Spald-
ing and wife, left the state of New York for this tour in February of 1836 —
traveled through a part of Pennsylvania-Ohio, and finally arrived at St. Louis,
in Missouri. Here they joined the Fur Company that crosses the mountains every
year, and were also joined by Messrs, Suturly [Saturlee in Mrs. Spalding's
diary] and Gray missionaries to the West. Matters thus arranged they all left
St. Louis in March for the "far West." The further particulars of the journey
may be learned from the following extracts from her journal taken on the
way."
170 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Following this heading is a letter addressed to her parents, dated, Van-
•couver, October 20, 1836, in which she says that the journal covers the journey
from the "Rendezvous," and that while at Vancouver they had been so situated
that she could copy her notes taken on the way. The party had crossed the
Great Divide on July 4th, and on that day celebrated the natal day of the coun-
try, and as they looked down the long vista westward seem to have felt that
they would claim possession of that western land in the name of the American
Union and the church of Jesus Christ. They had reached the "Rendezvous"
on Green River July 6th. After several days there, refitting and resting and
conferring with Indians, they resumed the next great stage of the march with
a detachment of the Hudson's Bay Company, under Mr. McLeod, bound for
Walla Walla.
It was July 18, 1836, when they set forth under these new auspices. A
■company of Flathead and Nez Perce Indians also travelled with them. It ap-
pears from the diary of Mrs. Spalding that the Nez Perces were very anxious
that the party accompany them, but as they apparently wished to hunt on the
-way it was manifestly necessary that the party go with the traders. One chief-
tain, Mrs. Spalding says, concluded to go with them, though it would deprive
Tiim of the privilege of securing a supply of meat for the Winter.
Mrs. Whitman tells of the tedious time which Doctor Whitman had with
.his wagon. This was one of the notable features of his journey. Some have
asserted that he was the first to drive a wagon from the Missouri to the Colum-
bia. This is only partly true. Ashley, Smith, Sublette, Bonneville, and other
trappers, had driven wagons to the Black Hills, and to other points, but none
of them had gone so far west as Whitman with a wagon. But when he reached
"Snake Fort." near Boise, he left his wagon. In 1840 Robert Newell went
clear through the Blue Mountains and reached Walla Walla. However, Doctor
Whitman deserves all praise for his energy and persistence in pushing his
"Chick-chick-Shaile-kikash," as the Indians called his wagon, even to Fort
Boise and he may be very justly called one of the first wheel-track-makers.
It is interesting and pathetic to see how Mrs. Whitman craved some of her
mother's bread. During part of their journey they had an exclusive diet of
bufifalo meat. Occasionally they would have berries and fish. They had sev-
-eral cows with them and from them had some milk, which was a great help.
They had to shoe their cattle (presumably with hide, though it is not so
stated) on account of sore feet. With the cows were two suckling calves,
which, Mrs. Whitman says, seemed to be in excellent spirits, and made the jour-
ney with no suffering, except sore feet.
Soon after passing a point on Snake River, where the Indians were tak-
ing salmon, Mrs. Whitman bade good-bye to her little trunk which they had
been able to carry thus far, but were now compelled to leave. It is truly
pathetic to read the words in her journal: "Dear H. (this was her sister Har-
riet, to whom she is especially addressing the words). The little trunk you
gave me had come thus with me so far and now I must leave it here alone. Poor
little trunk! I am sorry to leave thee. Thou must abide there alone and no
more by thy presence remind me of my dear Harriet.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 171
"Twenty miles below the falls on Snake River, this shall be thy place of
rest. Farewell, little trunk. I thank thee for thy faithful services, and that I
have been cheered by thy presence so long. Thus we scatter as we go along."
A little later it appears that Mr. McKay rescued the trunk. Mrs. Whit-
man shows that she had quite a sense of humor by recording when she found
what Mr. McKay had done, that her "soliloquizing about it last night was for
naught."
The journal contains quite a glowing account of the beauties of Grande
Ronde Valley, then of the toilsome zigzag trail out of it into the Blue Moun-
tains westward. On August 29th, the party stood upon the open summit, from
which they saw the valley of the Columbia, "It was beautiful. Just as we
gained the highest elevation and began to descend, the sun was dipping his disk
behind the Western horizon.
"Beyond the valley we could see two distant mountains. Mount Hood and
Mount St. Helens." (The latter of those mountains was Adams, not St. Helens.)
Our missionary band were now in sight of their goal. It was not, how-
ever, till September 1st, that they actually rode into Walla Walla. In fact
part of the company, including the Spaldings, did not reach the Fort till Sep-
tember 3d. It was a thrilling moment to that devoted little band. It seemed
to them almost equal to what it would to one of us modems to enter Washing-
ton or Paris or London. Think of the journey of those two women, those
hrides, those hundreds of miles from St. Louis to Walla Walla, five months
and mainly on horseback.
As they drew near the fort, both horses and riders became so eager to
reach the end of the journey that they broke into a gallop. They saw the first
appearance of civilization in a garden about two miles from the fort. That
•garden must have been nearly upon the present location of Wallula.
As they rode up to the fort, Mr. McLeod (who had gone ahead to prepare
for their coming), Mr. Pambnm, the commandant, and others, came forth to
meet so new and remarkable an addition to the population of Oregon.
Mrs. Whitman has the enthusiasm of a child in describing the chickens,
turkeys, pigeons, hogs, goats and cattle, which latter were the fattest that she
ever saw, and then she goes into ecstacies over the breakfast of salmon, potatoes,
tea, bread and butter, and then the room in the fort with its comfort, after all
their hardships. The officers of the Fur Company treated them with the utmost
courtesy and consideration.
Such was that momentous entrance of the missionaries and of the first
white women into Fort Walla Walla, September 1, 1836.
The next chapter in the story of the Whitman party was their journey to
Vancouver, the emporium of the Hudson's Bay Cohipany. Leaving Walla
Walla by boat the 7th of September, they reached the "New York of the
Pacific," as Mrs. Whitman says they had been told to consider it, on the 14th.
Mrs. Whitman expresses in her journal the admiration of the party for the
beauty of the river, more beautiful she says, than the Ohio, though the rugged
cliffs and shores of drifting sand below Walla Walla looked dismal and for-
bidding. They found much to delight them at Vancouver, the courtesy and
172 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
hospitality of Doctor McLoughlin and his assistants ; the bounteous table, with
feasts of salmon, roast duck, venison, grouse and quail, rich cream and delic-
ious butter ; a picture of toothsomeness which it makes one hungry to read ; the
ships from England moored to the river brink, and the well-kept farm with
.grain and vegetables, fruits of every sort, grapes and berries, a thousand head
of cattle, and many sheep, hogs, and horses; a perfect oasis of civilized de-
lights to the little company of missionaries, worn and homesick during their
months on horseback across the barren plains and through wild mountains.
Doctor Whitman and Mr. Spalding, leaving their wives in the excellent
keeping of the Hudson's Bay people at Vancouver, returned, in company with
Mr. Gray, to the Walla Walla country to decide upon locations. They had ex-
pected, so Mrs. Whitman says, to locate in the Grande Ronde, the beauty and
fertility of which had been portrayed in glowing colors by returning adven-
turers and fur traders. But discovering as they passed through that it was so
buried in the mountains and so difficult of access from the rivers and the reg-
ular routes of travel, they fixed upon Waiilatpu (Wielitpoo, Mrs. Whitman
spells it) for one post and Lapwai for another. The Whitmans became estab-
lished at Waiilatpu, "the place of rye grass" six miles west of the present
Walla Walla; and the Spaldings at Lapwai two miles up the Lapwai Creek, and
about twelve from the mouth of the Clearwater, the present site of Lewiston.
A few months after the location at Waiilatpu on March 4, 1837, a beam of
sunshine lighted in the home of the Whitmans in the form of a daughter, Alice
Clarissa, the first white child born west of the Rockies and north of California.
It is interesting to note that the next white girl born in what is now Washing-
ton was for many years a resident of Yakima, Mrs. Abigail Walker Carr, bom
at Tshimakain near Spokane, and dying in Yakima November 11, 1918. The
Indians were extraordinarily pleased with the "little white papoose" or "Cayuse
temi" (Cayuse girl) Alice, and if she had Hved, the tragedy of a little later
might not have occurred. In a letter preserved at Whitman College, from Mrs.
Whitman to her sister and husband, Rev. Lyman P. Judson, of Angelica, New
York, dated March 15, 1838, she says: "Our little daughter comes to her mother
every now and then to be cheered with a smile and a kiss and to be taken up to
rest for a few moments and then away she goes running about the room or out
of doors diverting herself with objects that attract her attention. A refreshing
comfort she is to her parents in their solitary situation."
With her parents so needing that child, fairly idolizing her and their very
lives wrought up with hers, it is too sad to relate that on June 23, 1840, the
bright active little creature wandered out of the house while the mother was
engaged in some household task and took her way to the fatal river that then
ran close to the mission house, though it now has a new channel half a mile
away. Missing little Alice Clarissa, Mrs. Whitman hastened to the river, with
a sinking dread, and there she saw the little cup where the child had dropped
it. This mutely told the heart-breaking tale. An Indian, diving into the stream,
found the body, but the gentle and lovable life, the life of the whole mission,
was gone. That faithful and devoted father and mother had one less tie to
life. The patient resignation with which the anguished parents endured this
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 173
infinite sorrow shows vividly what strength may be imparted by the real Chris-
tian spirit.
Both Doctor Whitman and Mr. Spalding were indefatigable, workers and
quickly created civilized conditions upon the beautiful places where they had
planted their missions.
Doctor Whitman was a man of powerful physique and familiar from
boyhood with the practical duties of farm and mill. He could turn his hand to
almost anything in the way of construction. The same was true of Mr. Gray,
who spent part of his time at Waiilatpu and part at Lapwai, though he returned
in 1837 to the east in search of new helpers.
But within a few months the Whitmans were comfortably housed, and
every year saw some, improvement about the buildings and land. Seed for
grain and fruit trees was secured at Vancouver, and stock was provided also.
The Waiilatpu farm consisted of a fertile belt of bottom land of about three
hundred acres between the Walla Walla River and Mill Creek, with unlimited
range of low hill and bench land covered with bunch grass which furnished the
finest of stock feed almost the whole year round. Doctor Whitman was himself
a practical millwright and soon had a small saw-mill equipped about twenty
miles up Mill Creek, while adjoining the mission house he laid out a mill dam,
the lines of which can still be seen. The mill was a grist mill and located at the
western side of the pond and within a few steps of the mission house and the
"Mansion," as they called the large adobe building erected a few years after
their arrival for the accommodation of the frequent visitors, especially after
American immigrants began to come.
Toiling incessantly the missionary-doctor and hero was rewarded by seeing
his mission brought in a surprisingly brief time to a condition of profitable cul-
tivation. T. J. Farnham who came with the so-called "Peoria party" in 1839
says of Whitman's place: "I found 250 acres enclosed and 200 acres in good
cultivation. I found forty or fifty Indian children between the ages of seven
and eighteen years in school, and Mrs. Whitman an indefatigable instructor.
It appeared to me quite remarkable that the Doctor could have made so many
improvements since the year 1836; but the industry which crowded every hour
of the day, his untiring energy of character, and the very efficient aid of his wife
in relieving him in a great degree from the labors of the school, enabled him,
without funds for such purposes, and without other aid than that of a fellow
missionary for short intervals, to fence, plow, build, plant an orchard, and do
all the other laborious acts of opening a plantation on the face of that distant
wilderness, learn an Indian language, and do the duties, meanwhile of a physi-
cian to the associate stations on the Clearwater and Spokane." Joseph Dray-
ton of the Wilkes exploring expedition of the United States Navy visited
Waiilatpu in 1841. He says of the mission: "All the premises looked comfort-
able, the garden especially fine, vegetables and melons in great variety. The
wheat in the fields was seven feet in the tassel."
Had not Dr. Whitman possessed great physical strength, as well as deter-
mination and energy, he could not have endured the excessive toil which was
the price of his rapid progress. Senator Nesmith who came to Oregon in the
174 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
immigration of 1843, said in the hearing of the author of this work, "Whitman
had a constitution hke a saw mill."' Another pioneer said of him that he had.
the energy of a Napoleon.
Some old timer has said that Whitman used to ride in a day to the present
site of Lewiston from Waiilatpu, about ninety miles. He would do it by chang-
ing horses several times. He was hard on horses, and when some one remon-
strated on the ground of cruelty, the Doctor replied, "My time is worth more
than the horse's comfort."
As has been stated, Mr. W. H. Gray went east in 1837 for reinforcements.
The next year he came again to Oregon with a valuable addition. Besides the
addition to his own life of a bride, Mary Dix (who was one of the choice spirits
of old Oregon and during many years a center of life and light in the new
country) there were three missionaries, each also with a newly wedded wife.
These were Revs. Elkanah Walker, Gushing Eells, and A. B. Smith. Mr. Gor-
nelius Rogers accompanied the party. Reaching Walla Walla the new arrivals
were assigned to new stations : Messrs. Eells and Walker to Tshimakain, near
the present city of Spokane, while Mr. Smith went to Kamiah, about sixty miles
east of the present site of Lewiston. Mr. Rogers and the Grays went to Lapwai.
There seemed never to have been more faithful and devoted missionaries than
were these of the four missions of Waiilatpu, Lapwai, Tshimakain and Kamiah.
Yet it could not be said that they were successful in turning any considerable
numbers of natives to Ghristianity. The Nez Perces at Lapwai and other sta-
tions established by Mr. Spalding, notably the one at Alpowa, were most amen-
able to Ghristian influences, while the Gayuses in the Walla Walla Valley were
least so. In contemplation of the apparently scanty progress, the missionary
board at Boston decided to discontinue the missions at Waiilatpu and Lapwai,
to discharge Alessrs. Spalding, Gray, Smith and Rogers, and to send Dr. Whit-
man to the Spokane country.
While these difificulties were harassing the missionaries, very important
events were taking place in national life. The slavery and the tarifif questions
had become fire brands in domestic politics. The questions of annexation of
Texas, of occupation of Oregon, of possible trouble with Mexico over the
former and with England over the latter, were threatening corresponding
chaos in foreign aiifairs. Doctor Whitman, reticent and sagacious, saw clearly
that his chosen aim of leading the natives to civilization and Ghristianity was
rapidly sinking in importance in comparison with the question of the white
race in the new land, and of the ownership of this great region. In 1842 the
Ashburton Treaty with England settled the northeastern boundary and the sup-
position was that it would also settle the Oregon Question.
But when the treaty was signed on August 9, it appeared that the ques-
tion of Oregon was left unsettled. In a message of August 11, President
Tyler explained to the Senate that so little probability of agreement existed that
it was thought not expedient to make that subject a matter of negotiation.
While the Ashburton Treaty was pending the first real immigration,
though a small one of a hundred and twelve persons, came to Oregon. In it,
among several of the most notable of the Old Oregonians, was A. L. Lovejoy, .
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 17?
a young New England lawyer, a man of energy and ambition, destined to play
a conspicuous part in Oregon history.
When the party reached Whitman's station on the Walla Walla they deliv-
ered to him letters from the States and discussed with him the pending treaty-
and the danger that it might draw the line so as to leave Oregon to Great Brit-
ain, or at least to make the Columbia River the boundary, placing the entire
Puget Sound basin and the mountains and plains eastward to the river in pos-
session of Great Britain. Seeing the imminence of the danger. Whitman deter-
mined upon a supreme efifort. He decided to make a mid-Winter journey east
with three aims in view: to present to the Government the situation and the
vital need of preserving Oregon for the United States ; to try to aid in form-
ing and guiding an immigration to Oregon ; and to settle affairs of the mission
with the board at Boston. He asked Love joy to go with him. It looked like
a desperate undertaking, but Lovejoy, an athletic, ambitious young man, agreed
to go.
THE WHITMAN CONTROVERSY
At this point comes in the bitterly disputed "Whitman Controversy." It
is not within the scope of this work to undertake an argumentative treatment
of this question. The question at issue, if rationally considered, is rather the
extent of the services of Dr. Whitman in "saving Oregon to the United States."
Mrs. F. F. Victor, Elwood Evans, Prof. E. G. Bourne, and Principal W.
I. Marshall have, more than others, presented arguments in favor of the con-
tention that Dr. Whitman had no important part in the great political drama of
Oregon, while the claim that he had large political aims and bore a conspicuous
part in influencing the final result has been supported in books written by Dr.
O. W. Nixon, Rev. William Barrows, Professor William Mowry, and Rev.
Myron Eells. The final book by the last named, the life of Marcus Whitman,
is in the judgment of the writer, the final and unanswered and indeed unan-
swerable, word on the subject.
The author of this history has given in the Washington Historical Quar-
terly of April, 1917, his reasons for thinking the statements of Professors
Bourne and Marshall inaccurate and their arguments inconclusive.
The fact acknowledged by all is that Whitman made a ride during the
Fall and Winter of 1842 and succeeding months of 1843 which for daring, hero-
ism and fortitude, has few parallels in history.
The question of controversy is, what did he make such a journey for. His
critics say that it was in consequence of the decision of the missionary board
to discontinue his mission on the Walla Walla. Mrs. Victor and Principal
iMarshall are the only ones among these critics who have achieved the distinc-
tion of attributing base or selfish motives to Whitman. They have held forth
the idea that he, foreseeing the incoming of immigrants, wanted to maintain the
station at Waiilatpu, in order to raise vegetables and other supplies to sell at a
high price. Whether a motive of that sort would lead a man of Whitman's
type to take that desperate ride in mid-Winter through the Rocky Mountains, at
peril of life a dozen times over from Indians, freezing, and starvation, is a
question which different people w^ould view differently, according to their way
176 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
of estimating the motives which determine men's actions. Perhaps people
whose estimate of human nature, based possibly on their own inner conscious-
ness of motives, is that selfish gain is the leading motive, would agree that the
hope of cornering the vegetable market at Waiilatpu was an adequate cause of
Whitman's ride. To some other people it would seem likely that the main-
spring of his action was some great national and patriotic aim and that while
he wished to maintain the mission his great aim was to convince the Govern-
ment of the value of Oregon and to help organize an immigration which would
settle the ownership of Oregon in favor of his country. At any rate, he went.
That much is undisputed.
Practically the only account of that memorable mid-Winter ride from
Waiilatpu to St. Louis is from A. L. Lovejoy, the sole white companion of
Whitman. Whitman himself was, like most heroes, a man of few words.
Ke told various friends something of his experiences in Washington and
Boston and told to associates and wrote a few letters to friends about the im-
migration of 1843, but he seems to have been very reticent about the "Ride."
Mr. Lovejoy wrote two letters about that journey, one dated November 6, 1869,
which is found in W. H. Gray's History of Oregon, and one addressed to Dr.
G. H. Atkinson and used by him in an address on February 22, 1876. This
letter so vividly portrays the character of this undertaking, as it comes from
the only witness besides Whitman himself, that we deem it suitable to incor-
porate it here.
LOVEJOV'S LETTER.
Mr. Lovejoy says: "We left Waiilatpu October 3, 1842, traveled rapidly,
reached Fort Hall in eleven days, remained two days to recruit and make a few
purchases. The doctor engaged a guide, and we left for Fort Unita. We had
terribly severe weather. The snows retarded our progress end blinded the trail,
so we lost much time. After arriving at Fort Uinta, and making some pur-
chases for our trip, we took a new guide and started for Taos. After being
out some four or five days we encountered a terrific snowstorm, which forced
us to seek shelter in a deep ravine, where we remained snowed in for four days,
at which time the storm had somewhat abated, and we attempted to make our
way out upon the highlands, but the snow was so deep and the winds so piercing
and cold, we were compelled to return to camp and wait a few days for a change
of weather. Our next effort to reach the highlands was more successful; but,
after spending several days wandering around in the snow without making
much headway, our guide told us that the deep snow had so changed the face
of the country that he was completely lost and could take us no further. This
was a terrible blow to the doctor, but he was determined not to give it up with-
out another effort.
"We at once agreed that the doctor should take the guide and return to
Fort Uncompahgre and get a new guide, and I remain in camp with the ani-
mals until he could return, which he did in seven days with our new guide, and
we were now on our route again. Nothing of much import occurred but hard
and slow traveling through deep snow until we reached Grand River, which
was frozen on either side about one-third across. Although so intensely cold,
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY • 177
the current was so very rapid that about one-third of the river in the center was
not frozen. Our guide thought it would be dangerous to attempt to cross the
river in its present condition, but the doctor, nothing daunted, was the first to
take the water. He mounted his horse ; the guide and myself shoved the Doctor
and his horse off the ice into the foaming stream. Away he went, completely
under water, horse and all, but directly came up, and after buffeting the rapid
foaming current, he reached the ice on the opposite shore a long way down the
stream. He leaped from his horse upon the ice and soon had his noble animal
by his side. The guide and myself forced in the pack animals, and followed the
Doctor's example, and were soon on the opposite shore, drying our frozen
clothes by a comfortable fire. We reached Taos in about thirty days, having suf-
fered greatly from cold and scarcity of provisions. We were compelled to use
mule meat, dogs, and such other animals as came in our reach. We remained
at Taos a few days only, and started for Bent's and Savery's Fort, on the head-
waters of the Arkansas River. When we had been out some fifteen or twenty
days we met George Bent, a brother of Governor Bent, on his way to Taos.
He told us that a party of mountain men would leave Bent's Fort in a few days
for St. Louis, but said we would not reach the fort with our pack animals in
time to join the party. The Doctor, being very anxious to join the party so he
could push on as rapidly as possible to Washington, concluded to leave myself
and guide with the animals, and he himself, taking the best animal, with some
bedding and a small allowance of provision, started alone, hoping by rapid
travel to reach the fort in time to join the St. Louis party, but to do so he
would have to travel on the Sabbath, something we had not done before. Myself
and guide traveled on slowly and reached the fort in four days, but imagine
our astonishment when on making inquiry about the Doctor we were told that
he had not arrived nor had he been heard of. I learned that the party for St.
Louis was camped at the Big Cottonwood, forty miles from the fort, and at my
request Mr. Savery sent an express, telling the party not to proceed any farther
until we learned something of Doctor Whitman's whereabouts, as he wished to
accompany them to St. Louis. Being furnished by the gentlemen of the fort
with a suitable guide, I started in search of the Doctor, and traveled up the
river about one hundred miles. I learned from the Indians that a man had
been there who was lost and was trying to find Bent's Fort. They said they
had directed him to go down the river and how to find the fort. I knew from
their description it was the Doctor. I returned to the fort as rapidly as pos-
sible, but the Doctor had not arrived. We had all become very anxious about
him.
"Late in the afternoon he came in very much fatigued and desponding;
said that he knew that God had bewildered him to punish him for traveling on
the Sabbath. During the whole trip he was very regular in his morning and
evening devotions, and that was the only time I ever knew him to travel on the
Sabbath.
"The Doctor remained all night at the fort, starting only on the following
morning to join the St. Louis party. Here we parted. The Doctor proceeded
to Washington. I remained at Bent's Fort until Spring, and joined the Doctor
(12)
178 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
the following July near Fort Laramie, on his way to Oregon, in company with
a train of emigrants."
In the life of Whitman by Myron Eells, there is a summary of the events
which immediately followed, so well adapted to our purpose that we quote it
here as resting upon the authority of Mr. Eells, whom we regard as a writer
of undoubted candor and accuracy.
"When Doctor Whitman arrived at St. Louis he made his home at the
house of Doctor Edward Hale, a dentist. In the same house was William Bar-
rows, then a young school teacher, afterward a clergyman and author of Bar-
rows' 'Oregon.'
"Reaching Cincinnati, he went to the house of Doctor Weed. Here, accord-
ing to Professor Weed, he obtained a new suit of clothes, but whether he wore
them all the time until he left the east or not is a question. Some writers speak
of him as appearing in buckskins, or something akin to them, afterwards both
at Washington and Boston. Some, as Dr. S. J. Parker, say he was not so
dressed. It is just barely possible that both may be true — that he kept his buck-
skins and buffalo coat and occasionally wore them. It is quite certain that he
did not throw them away, as according to accounts he wore his buckskins in re-
turning to Oregon the next Summer.
"The next visit on record was at Ithaca, New York, at the home of his old
missionary friend and fellow traveler, Rev. Samuel Parker. Here, after the
surprise of his arrival was over, he said to Mr. Parker: T have come on a very
important errand. We must both go at once to Washington, or Oregon is lost,
ceded to the English.' Mr. Parker, however, did not think the danger to be so
great, and not for lack of interest in the subject, but because of other reasons,
did not go, Doctor Whitman went alone, and reached Washington.
"The Doctor, or his brother, had been a classmate of the Secretary of War,.
James M. Porter. Through him the Doctor obtained an introduction to Daniel
Webster, then Secretary of State, with whom he talked about Oregon and the
saving of it to the United States, but Mr. Webster received him very coolly,
and told him it was too late, as far as he was concerned, for he had considered
it, decided it, and turned it over to the President, who could sign Oregon away
or refuse to do so. Accordingly Doctor Whitman went to President Tyler, and
for some time they talked about Oregon. Even the Cabinet were called to-
gether, it is said, and an evening was spent on the subject. The objection was
made that wagons could never be taken to Oregon and that consequently the
country could never be peopled overland by emigrants, while the distance around
Cape Horn was altogether too great to think of taking settlers to the country
that way. In reply to this, Doctor Whitman told of the great value of the
country and of his plans to lead an emigration through with their wagons the
next Summer. He stated that he had taken a wagon into Oregon six years be-
fore to Fort Boise, that others had taken one from Fort Hall to Walla Walla,
and that with his present knowledge, having been over the route twice, he was
sure he could take the emigrant wagons through to the Columbia. The Presi-
dent then said that he would wait, before carrying the negotiations any further,
until he could hear whether Doctor Whitman should succeed, and if he should.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 179
there would be no more thought of trading off Oregon. This satisfied the
Doctor.
"He then went to New York to see Mr. Horace Greeley, who was known
to be a friend of Oregon. He went there dressed in his rough clothes, much
the same that he wore across the continent. When he knocked at the door a
lady came, Mrs. Greeley or a daughter, who, on seeing such a rough-looking
person, said to his inquiries for Mr. Greeley, 'Not at home.' Doctor Whitman
started away. She went and told Mr. Greeley about him and Mr. Greeley, who
was of much the same style and cared but little for appearance, looked out of
the window, and seeing him going away, said to call him in. It was done, and
they had a long talk about this Northwest Coast and its political relations.
"From New York Doctor Whitman went to Boston, where the officers of
the American Board at first received him coldly, because he had left his sta-
tion for the east without permission from them, on business so foreign to that
which he had been sent to Oregon to accomplish. Afterwards, however, they
treated him more cordially.
"From Boston he went to New York State and visited relatives. Then
taking with him his nephew, Perrin B. Whitman, he bade them good-by and
left for Missouri. While there he did all he could to induce people to join the
emigration for Oregon, then went with the emigration, assisting the guide. Cap-
tain Gantt, until they reached Fort Hall, and aiding the emigrants very materi-
ally. Fort Hall was as far as Captain Gantt had agreed to guide them, and
from there the emigrants reached the Columbia River safely with their
wagons."
The incoming of the immigration of 1843 was a determining factor in the
settlement of the Oregon question. There can be no question that Doctor Whit-
man performed a conspicuous service in organizing and leading that immigra-
tion.
It is true, however, that many influences combined to draw that company
of frontiersmen to the border of civilization and to give them the common pur-
pose of the great march across the wilderness. The leading motives perhaps
were the desire first to acquire land in what they thought would prove a para-
dise and second to carry the American flag across the continent and secure
ownership of the Pacific Coast for their country.
whitman's letter to secretary porter
Doctor Whitman himself wrote several valuable letters referring to the
immigration. The most important of these was one to the Secretary of War
enclosing a proposed bill for a line of forts across the plains to defend immi-
grations. This letter has such an important bearing on the whole story of Whit-
man and his connection with the immigration and the acquisition of Oregon that
part of it is incorporated here. And we would submit to the reader the diffi-
culty which we feel that any candid critic would experience in examining this
letter and then denying Whitman's part in "Saving Oregon to the United
States." Whitman's letter was found among the files of the War Department
with the following endorsement :
180 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
"Marcus Whitman, inclosing synopsis of a bill, with his views in reference
to importance of the Oregon Territory, War. 383-rec. June 22, 1844."
Portions of the letter follow:
■"To the Hon. James M. Porter,
Secretary of War.
"Sir: In compliance with the request you did me the honor to make last
Winter, while in Washington, I herewith transmit to you the synopsis of a bill
which, if it could be adopted would, according to my experience and observa-
tion, prove highly conducive to the best interest of the United States generally,
to Oregon, where I have resided for more than seven years as a missionary,
and to the Indian tribes that inhabit the immediate country. The Government
will now, doubtless for the first time, be apprised through you, or by means of
this communication, of the immense immigration of families to Oregon which
has taken place this year. I have, since our interview, been instrumental in
piloting across the route described in the accompanying bill, and which is the
only eligible wagon road, no less than three hundred families, consisting of one
thousand persons of both sexes, with their 120 wagons, 694 oxen, and 773
loose- cattle.
"The emigrants are from different States, but principally from Missouri,
Arkansas, Illinois and New York. The majority of them are farmers, lured by
the prospect of bounty in lands, by the reported fertility of the soil, and by the
desire to be first among those who are planting our institutions on the Pacific
Coast. Among them are artisans of every trade, comprising, with farmers, the
very best material for a new colony. As pioneers, these people have under-
gone incredible hardships, and having now safely passed the Blue Mountain
Range with their wagons and effects, have established a durable road from Mis-
souri to Oregon, which will serve to mark permanently the route of large num-
bers each succeeding year, while they have practically demonstrated that
wagons drawn by horses or oxen can cross the Rocky Mountains to the Columbia
River, contrary to all the sinister assertions of all those who pretended it to
be impossible.
"In their slow progress, these persons have encountered, as in all former
instances, and as all succeeding emigrants must if this or some similar bill be
not passed by Congress, the continual fear of Indian aggression, the actual loss
through them of horses, cattle and other property, and the great labor of trans-
porting an adequate amount of provisions for so long a journey. The bill here-
with proposed would, in a great measure, lessen these inconveniences by the
establishment of posts, which, while having the power to keep the Indians in
check, thus doing away with the necessity of military vigilance on the part of
the travelers by day and night, would be able to furnish them in transit with
fresh supplies of provisions, diminishing the original burdens of the emigrants,
and finding thus a ready and profitable market for their produce, a market that
would, in my opinion, more than suffice to defray all the current expenses of
such posts. The present party is supposed to have expended no less than
$2,000 at Laramie's and Bridger's forts, and as much more at Fort Hall and
Fort Boise, two of the Hudson's Bay Company's stations. These are at present
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY I8r
the only stopping places in a journey of 2,200 miles, and the only place where
additional supplies can be obtained, even at the enormous rate of charge, called!
mountain prices, i. e., $50 the hundred for flour and $50 the hundred for coffee;,
the same for sugar, powder, etc.
"Many cases of sickness and some of death took place among those whc
accomplished the journey this season, owing, in a great measure, to the uninv-
terrupted use of meat, salt and fresh, with flour, which constitute the chief
articles of food they are able to convey on their wagons, and this could be
obviated by the vegetable productions which the posts in contemplation couldl
very profitably afford them. Those who rely on hunting as an auxiliary sup-
port, are at present unable to have their arms repaired when out of order ; horses
and oxen become tender footed and require to be shod on this long journey,,
sometimes repeatedly, and the wagons repaired in a variety of ways. I men-
tion these as valuable incidents to the proposed measure, as it will also be found'-
to tend in many other incidental ways to benefit the migratory population of
the United States choosing to take this direction, and on these accounts, as well'
as for the immediate use of the posts themselves, they ought to be provided;
with the necessary shops and mechanics, which would at the same time exhibit
the several branches of civilized art to the Indians.
"The outlay in the first instance would be but trifling. Forts like those of
the Hudson's Bay Company, surrounded by walls enclosing all the buildings,
and constructed almost entirely of adobe, or sun-dried brick, with stone founda-
tions only, can be easily and cheaply erected.
"Your familiarity with the Government policy, duties, and interest, render'
it unnecessary for me to more than hint at the several objects intended by the
enclosed bill, and any enlargement upon the topics here suggested as induce-
ments to its adoption would be quite superfluous, if not impertinent. The very
existence of such a system as the one above recommended suggests the utility
of postofiices and mail arrangements, which it is the wish of all who now live
in Oregon to have granted them; and I need only add that contracts for this
purpose will be readily taken at reasonable rates for transporting the mail
across from Missouri to the mouth of the Columbia in forty days, with fresh
horses at each of the contemplated posts. The ruling policy proposed regards
the Indians as the police of the country, who are to be relied upon to keep
the peace, not only for themselves, but to repel lawless white men and'
banditti, under the solitary guidance of the superintendents of the several posts,
aided by a well-directed system to induce the punishment of crime. It will
only be after the failure of these means to procure the delivery for punish-
ment of violent, lawless and savage acts of aggression, that a band or tribe
should be regarded as conspirators against the peace, or punished accordingly
by force of arms.
"Hoping that these suggestions may meet your approbation, and conduce
to the future interest of our growing country, I have the honor to be,
Honorable Sir.
"Your obedient servant,
i ' ' "Marcus Whitman."'
182 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
It may be added that Whitman was so thoroughly interested in the idea
of the Une of forts across the continent that he wrote another communication
to tlie Secretary of War from Waiilatpu in 1847, October 16th, only about six
weeks before his murder, setting forth with similar force and clearness the
wisdom of such a system.
During the four years that followed the coming of the "Great Immigration"
the nxission at Waiilatpu was a center of light and help to the incoming immi-
grations. Many incidents have been preserved showing the industry, fortitude,
and open-handed philanthropy of the Whitmans. The earlier immigrations
usually stopped at Waiilatpu, coming across the country in the vicinity of the
present location of Athena or Weston and down Pine Creek to the Walla Walla.
The immigrants were always short of provisions and generally had no money.
To have a stock of provisions at all equal to emergencies put a tremendous
strain on Doctor Whitman, and nobly did he meet the needs. Among many
instances of the helping hand of the missionaries are two given in Eells' life
of Whitman, which we give as illustrative of many that might be given.
"Among the immigrants of 1844 was a man named Sager, who had a
family consisting of his wife and seven children, between the ages of infancy
and thirteen. The father died of typhoid fever on Green River, and the mother
sank under her burdens when she reached Snake River, and there died. The
immigrants cared for the children until they reached Doctor Whitman's, but
would take them no farther. The Doctor and his wife took the strangers in
at first for the Winter, but afterward adopted them and cared for them as long
as they lived.
MRS. PRINGLE ON WHITMAN.
"Mrs. C. S. Pringle, one of these children, afterwards gave the following
account of this event. It was written in answer to a charge made by Mrs.
F. F. Victor that the Doctor was mercenary, making money out of the immi-
grants: "In April, 1844, my parents started for Oregon. Soon after starting
we were all camped for the night, and the conversation after awhile turned
upon the probability of death before the end of the journey should be reached.
All told what they would wish iheir families to do in case they should fall by
the way. My father said: 'Well, if I should die, I would want my family to
stop at the station of Doctor Whitman.' Ere long he was taken sick and died,
but with his dying breath he committed his family to the care of Captain Shaw,
with the request that they should be left at the station of Doctor Whitman.
Twenty-six days after his death his wife died. She, too, requested the same.
When we were in the Blue Mountains, Captain Shaw went ahead to see about
leaving us there. The Doctor objected, as he was afraid the board would not
recognize that as a part of his labor. After a good deal of talk he consented
to have the children brought, and he would see what could be done. On the
17th day of October we drove up to the station, as forlorn a looking lot of
children as ever was. I was a cripple, hardly able to walk, and the babe of
six months was dangerously ill. Mrs. Whitman agreed to take the five girls,
but the boys must go on (they were the oldest of the family). But the 'mer-
cenary' Doctor said, 'All or none.' He made arrangements to keep the seven
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY v 183'
until Spring, and then if we did not like to stay, and he did not want to keep
us, he would send us below. An article of agreement was drawn up in writing
between him and Captain Shaw, but not one word of money or pay was in it.
I had it in my possession for years after I came to the (Willamette) Valley,
having received it from Captain Shaw. Before Captain Shaw reached The
Dalles he was overtaken by Doctor Whitman, who announced his intention of
adopting the seven, on his own responsibiHty, asking nothing of the Board for
maintenance. The next Summer he went to Oregon City and legally became
our guardian, and the action is on the records of Clackamas County. Having
done this, he further showed his 'mercenary' nature by disposing of our father's
estate in such a way that he could not reahze a cent from it. He exchanged
the oxen and old cows for young cows, and turned them over to the two boys
to manage until they could grow to manhood; besides this, he gave them each
a horse and saddle, which, of course, came out of his salary, as we were not
mission children, as were the three half-breeds that were in the family. After
doing all this he allowed the boys opportunities to accumulate stock by work
or trade. Often he has said to us, 'You must all learn to work, for father is
poor and can give you nothing but an education. This I intend to do to the
best of my ability.'
"Another incident with an immigrant is here related, given almost in the
words of the narrator, Joseph Smith, who came to the country in 1846. He
says : I was mighty sick crossing the Blues, and was so weak from eating
blue mass that they had to haul me in the wagon till we got to Doctor Whit-
man's place on the Walla Walla River. Then mother Whitman came and
raised the wagon cover and says, 'What is the matter with you, my brother?'
'I am sick, and I don't want to be pestered much, either.' 'But, but, my young
friend, my husband is a doctor, and can probably cure your ailment ; I'll go and
call him.' So off she clattered, and purty soon Doc came, and they packed me
in the cabin, and soon he had me on my feet again. I eat up a whole band of
cattle for him, as I had to winter with him. I told him I'd like to work for
him, to kinder pay part of my bill. Wall, Doc, set me to making rails, but I
only made two hundred before Spring, and I got to worrj'in' 'cause I hadn't
only fifty dollars and a saddle horse, and I reckoned I owed the Doctor four
or five hundred dollars for my life. Now, maybe I wasn't knocked out when
I went and told the Doctor I wanted to go on to Webfoot, and asked him how
we stood; and the Doctor p'inted to a cayuse pony, and says, 'Money I have
not, but you can take that horse and call it even, if you will.' "
It is worth noticing that, though Mr. Smith says "Mother" Whitman, she
was only thirty-eight at the time.
But at that time, the very year of the final consummation of the great
work of Whitman, the treaty of 1846, giving Oregon up to lat. 49° to the
United States, a consummation which must have made the brave hearts of the
heroic pair thrill with joy and gratitude, the shadow was approaching, the end
was near. The crown of heroism and service must be still further crowned
with martyrdom.
Ever since the death of little Alice, the Indians at Waiilatpu had seemed
to lose in growing measure the personal interest which they had manifested.
184 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
With the coming of constantly growing immigrations and the apparent eager-
ness of the Whites to secure land, the natives felt increasing suspicion.
The more thoughtful of them, especially those who had been in the "States"
and had seen the countless numbers of the "palefaces," began to see that it
was only a question of time when they would be entirely dispossessed. Again,
the unavoidable policies of the Hudson's Bay Company were hostile to the
American settler. While individually the ofificers of the Company were as
kind and courteous to the missionaries as men well could be, and were helpful
to them in their religious labors, it was a different matter when it came to
settlers swarming into the country with the Stars and Stripes at the head of
wagon trains and with the implements of husbandry in their hands. The Indians
were predisposed, for many reasons, to side with the Company. With it they
did their trading. It maintained the wild conditions of the country. The
French-Canadian voyageurs and coureurs des bois were much kinder and more
considerate of the Indians than the Americans, and intermarried with them.
Besides those general causes of hostility to the Americans, there were certain
specific events during that period of doubt and suspicion which brought affairs
to a focus and precipitated the Whitman Massacre. Some have believed that
the murder of "Elijah" (as the Whites called him), the son of Peupeumoxmox,
the chief of the Walla Wallas, apparently a fine, manly young Indian, was a
strong contributory cause. The young brave had gone to California in 1844,
and while near Sutter's Fort had become involved in a dispute with some white
settlers and had been brutally murdered. The old chief, Peupeumoxmox, had
brooded over this dastardly deed and though there is no evidence that he had
any part in the Massacre there was deep resentment among the Indians of the
Walla Walla Valley and no doubt many of them were in the mood to apply the
in his medicine chest, two Indians who seem to have been leaders in the plot
usual Indian rule that a life lost demanded a life in payment. Apparently the
most immediate influence leading to the Massacre was due to an epidemic of
measles which swept the valley in 1847. Doctor Whitman was indefatigable iri
ministering to the sick, but many died. The impression became prevalent among
the Indians that they were the victims of poison. This idea was nurtured in
their minds by several renegade Indians and half-breeds, of whom Lehai, Tom
Hill, and Jo Lewis were most prominent.
Seeing the gathering of clouds about the mission and the many warning
indications. Doctor Whitman had taken up the project of leaving Walla Walla
and going to The Dalles, a point where he had in fact at first wished to locate,
but had been dissuaded by the Hudson's Bay officials.
THE WHITMAN MASSACRE
The story of the Massacre has been many times told and may be found in
many forms. We can but briefly sketch its leading events. Mr. Spalding of
Lapwai was temporarily at Waiilatpu and on November 27, 1847, he and Doctor
Whitman went to the Umatilla in response to a request for medical attention.
Feeling uneasy about affairs at home, Doctor Whitman returned the next day,
reaching Waiilatpu late at night. On the day following, the 29th, while engaged
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 185
approached him and while one, Tilaukait, drew his attention by talking, the
other, Tamahas, struck him with a tomahawk. He fell senseless, though not
yet dead. Jo Lewis seems to have directed the further execution of the cruel
conspiracy and soon Mrs. Whitman, shot in the breast, fell to the floor, though
not dying for some time. She was the only woman slain. There were in all,
fourteen victims of their dreadful attack. Several escaped, Mr. Spalding, who
was on his way back from the Umatilla, being one of them. After several days
and nights of harrowing suffering he reached Lapwai. There were forty-six
survivors of the Massacre, nearly all women and children. It is generally
supposed that they were subjected to cruelty and outrage worse than death,
though some of the survivors deny this. They were ransomed by Peter
Skeen Ogden of the Hudson's Bay Company, and transported to the Wil-
lamette Valley. The full story of the war which follows belongs in the Chapter
on Indian Wars. So ended in darkness, but not in shame, the mission at
Waiilatpu. The peaceful spot six miles west of Walla Walla, in the midst of
the fair and fruitful valley, is marked with a granite monument on the summit
of the hill and a grave at the foot. There the dust of the martyrs rests in a
plain marble crypt upon the surface of which appear their names. It is indeed
one of the most sacred spots in the Northwest, suggestive of patriotism, devo-
tion, self-sacrifice, suffering, sorrow, tragedy, and final triumph. In November,
1916, the remains of W. H. Gray and Mary Dix Gray, his wife, were removed
from Astoria and placed by the side of the grave at Waiilatpu. As associates
from the first, of the Whitmans, and engaged in the same arduous struggle for
the establishment of civilized and Christian institutions in this beautiful wild-
erness, they are fittingly joined with them in their final resting place.
By reason of priority in time as well as its connection with immigration and
public affairs, and also its tragic end, and perhaps too the controversies that
have arisen in connection with it, the Whitman Mission has secured a place in
history far more prominent than that of any other, either east or west of the
Cascade Mountains. But it should not be forgotten that within a short time
after the incoming of white settlers, all the leading churches sent missionaries
into the Northwest both for the Indians and whites. Next in point of time
after the Methodist missions of the Willamette Valley and the Presbyterian
and Congregationalist missions of the upper Columbia and Snake Rivers, came
the Catholic. It should be understood that in speaking of that church as third
in time we speak of the era of the beginnings of settlement. For it should be
remembered that there had been visiting Catholic priests among the Hudson's
Bay posts long prior to the coming of Jason Lee, the first of the Protestants.
The French-Canadians were almost universally of Catholic rearing, and the
officers of the company encouraged the maintenance of religious worship and
instruction according to the customary methods. There were not, however, any
regular permanent Catholic missions until a little after the Protestant missions
already described.
The inauguration of regular mission work by the Catholic Church grew
out of the establishment of a settlement at Chanipoeg on the Willamette by
Doctor McLoughlin during the years from 1828 on. Quite a little group of re-
tired Hudson's Bay Company men, French-Canadians with Indian wives and
186 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
half-breed children, had become located on the fertile tract still known as French
Prairie. So well had the settlement thrived that in 1834, the year of the arrival
of Jason Lee in the same neighborhood, an application was made to Doctor
Provencher, vicar apostolic of Hudson Bay, to send a clergyman to that point.
A church was built in 1836, the first church building in Oregon. Not till 1837
could the request for a visit from a minister to Oregon be fulfilled. In that
year, Rev. Modeste Demers went to the Red River, and the following year, in
■company with Rev. Francis N. Blanchet, resumed the journey to Oregon.
In the progress of their journey they stopped at Walla Walla for a day.
Reaching Vancouver on November 24, 1838, they entered with zeal and devo-
tion upon their task of ministering to both whites and Indians. Remaining at
Vancouver till January, 1839, Father Blanchet started on a regular course of
visitations, going first to the settlement on the Willamette where there were
twenty-six Catholic families and where the people had already constructed a
•chapel. Next he visited Cowlitz Prairie, where there were four families. These
stations were of course outside of the scope of the present work, but reference
to them indicates the time and place and manner of starting the great series of
Catholic missions which soon became extended all over Oregon.
While Father Blanchet was at Cowlitz, his fellow worker, Demers, estab-
lished mission work at Fort Nisqually. In the Summer of 1839 he made an ex-
tended tour of the upper Columbia region. In the course of this he visited
Walla Walla, Okanogan, and Colville, starting work among the Indians by
baptizing their children. From that time on Father Demers or some one of
the Jesuit priests made annual visits to those stations adding children by bap-
tism each year.
In the meantime another of the most important of the Catholic mission-
aries, and the one to whom the world is indebted for one of the best histories
of Oregon missions, was on his way. This was Rev. Father Pierre J. De Smet.
In March, 1840, he set out for Oregon from the St. Joseph Mission at Council
Bluffs, journeying by the Platte River route. On June 25th he reached Green
River, long known as a rendezvous of the fur traders.
There he held Mass for the trappers and Indians. Referring to this in a
subsequent letter he writes thus: "On Sunday the fifth of July, I had the con-
solation of celebrating the Holy Sacrifice sub dio. The altar was placed on an
elevation, and surrounded with boughs and garlands of flowers; I addressed
the congregation in French and in English and spoke also by an interpreter to
the Flatheads and Snake Indians. It was a spectacle truly moving for the heart
of a missionary to behold an assembly composed of so many dififerent nations
who all assisted at our holy mysteries with great satisfaction. The Canadians
sang hymns in French and Latin, and the Indians in their native tongue. It
-was truly a Catholic worship. The place has been called since that time, by the
French-Canadians, la prairie de la Messe."
After a week at the Green River rendezous, Father De Smet with his Indian
guides resumed the journey westward by way of the Three Tetons to the
upper waters of Snake River. While at Henry Lake he climbed a lofty peak
from which he could see in both directions and while there he carved on a stone
the words: "Sancttts Igiwtitts, Patronus Montium, Die Julii 23, 1840."
CATHOLIC MISSION ESTABLISHED IN 1851
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 187
That was as far west as Father De Smet went at that time. After two
months among the Flatheads about the head of Snake River he returned to St.
Louis in the last part of the year. One point of interest in connection with this
return, as showing the disposition of the Indians to seek religious instruction,
is that a certain Flathead chief named Insula who accompanied Father De Smet
to St. Louis, had gone to Green River in 1835 to meet missionaries. It is stated
by Rev. Father E. V. O'Hara in his valuable "Catholic History of Oregon"
that Insula was much disappointed to find not the "blackgowns" as he had ex-
pected, but Doctor Whitman and Doctor Parker on their reconnaissance. It is
probably impossible to determine just what distinction between different de-
nominations of Christians may have existed in the Indian mind, but it may be
recalled that Whitman and Parker, while at Green River, deemed the outlook
so encouraging that they decided that Whitman should return to the States for
reinforcements, while Parker went on with the Indians and made an extensive
exploration of the entire Oregon country.
Father De Smet returned to the Flathead mission in 1841 and in 1842 pro-
ceeded to Vancouver by way of the Spokane. In the course of the journey he
visited all the principal Indian tribes in the Kootenai, Pend Oreille, Coeur
d'Alene, Spokane and Walla Walla countries. Returning to the east after
twenty-five months of missionary service in Oregon and then spending some
time in Europe, he returned with quite a reinforcement in the ship LTnfatigable
in 1844 The ship was nearly wrecked on the Columbia River bar, and of the
experience De Smet gives a peculiarly vivid description. He deemed the final
safe entrance due to special interposition of Divine Providence on account of
the day, July 31st, being sacred to St. Ignatius.
Father De Smet was a vivid and interesting writer and a zealous mission-
ary. He greatly overestimated the number of Indians in Oregon, placing them
at a hundred and ten thousand and in equal ratio estimated the converts at
numbers hardly possible except by the most sweeping estimates.
The Catholic missions were gradually extended until they covered points
in the entire Northwest. The Bishop of Oregon was Rev. Francis N. Blanchet
who was located near Salem. In 1845 and 1846 he made an extensive tour
in Canada and Europe for the purpose of securing reinforcements. As a result
of his journey and the action of the Holy See the Vicariate was erected into
an Ecclesiastical Province with the three sees of Oregon City, Walla Walla,
and Vancouver Island. Rev. A. M. A. Blanchet was appointed Bishop of Walla
Walla, and Father Demers Bishop of Vancouver Island, while Bishop F. N.
Blanchet was promoted to the position of Archbishop of Oregon City.
Bishop A. M. A. Blanchet reached Fort Walla Walla on September 5, 1847,
having come with a wagon train by the usual emigrant road from St. Louis.
This might be regarded as the regular establishment of Catholic missions in
Walla Walla. The Bishop was accompanied to Walla Walla by four Oblate
Fathers of Marseilles and Father J. B. A. Brouillet as Vicar General, and also
by Father Rousseau and William Leclaire, Deacon. Bishop Blanchet located
among the Umatilla Indians at the home of Five Crows. The mission was fairly
established only a few days prior to the Whitman Massacre. Bishop Blanchet
went to Oregon City after the massacre and by reason of the Indian war he
188 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
found it impossible to return to Walla Walla. He established St. Peter's Mis-
sion at The Dalles, and there he remained till September, 1850. During that
year there came instructions from Rome to transfer the Bishop of Walla Walla,
to the newly established diocese of Nisqually. The diocese of Walla Walla-
was suppressed and its administration merged with that of Colville and Fort
Hall in the control of the Archbishop of Oregon City.
While in this view of missionary history and its connections we have
been covering the broad scope of Old Oregon, which included the entire North-
west, we do not forget that our theme is especially the Yakima Valley.
It seems that neither the earliest explorers, fur traders, nor mission-
aries became so familiar with Yakima as with Walla Walla, Spokane, or the
Snake River. The reason is obvious. While the Yakima was unsurpassed by
any of them in potential resources and in the vigor and number of native tribes,
Yakima was ofT the main routes of travel. The Snake and Columbia were the
great natural arteries of travel, and the primary aim of all incomers was to
reach the seaboard. The maps of Lewis and Clark show that they obtained
from the Indians at the mouth of the Tapteal (Yakima) and on the Columbia
adjoining, a remarkably intelligent conception of the rivers and mountains.
They learned of the towering heights of the Cascades and of course followed,
the Great River to the ocean. The trappers did the same. Yet it appears from.
the narratives of Alexander Ross and other of the first trappers that there were
frequent and regular visits to Yakima in search of furs or horses. The same
was doubtless true of the early missionaries
Apparently the Catholic missionaries were first in the field in the Yakima
Valley. There seems to be a little uncertainty about the first locations..
Reverend Father O'Hara in his "Catholic History of Oregon," refers to Father
D'Herbomez as having established the Yakima mission "with his indefatigable-
brethren of the Oblates in the year 1847," and maintaining it till the Indian
war of 1855 forced him to retire. It appears from Theodore Winthrop in
"Canoe and Saddle," from which we shall give an extract, that Fathers
D'Herbomez and Pandosy were located on the "Atinam" (Ahtanum) and that
they had been among the different tribes of the Yakimas some five years."
Winthrop's journey was in 1853. The mission of the Ahtanum became known?
later as the St. Joseph Mission, but it appears that the mission of that name
was first located near the present town of Wapato, but on the north side of the
Yakima River, near the present residence of W. P. Sawyer. To the Indians
the spot was known as Aleshecas. This mission was located in 1849 by Father
Pandosy and Brother Blanchet. It appears that there was also an auxiliary
mission in the Moxee. On account of threats against the mission by some of
the Indians Owhi, the chief, took Father Pandosy with him to Selah and some-
times to Manashtash. Father Chirouse in the meantime spent the Winter of
1849 with Brother Blanchet at Aleshecas. In the next year, however, Kamiakin
took him under his protection.
Mr. Splawn states also that a log house was built for Father Pandosy on-
Naneum Creek in 1850. In 1852 the mission at Aleshecas was abandoned and
that near the present Tampico became the St. Joseph Mission. During the war
of 1855 the soldiers under Major Rains of the Regulars and Colonel Nesmith;
OLDEST CABIN NOW STANDING IN YAKIMA VALLEY
Built liy J. P. Mattoon in 1864, mm iiuiuM liy Win. V. Sauyei
;mki; iKiMi: ok w. r. sa\v\
PRESENT HOME OF W. P. SAWYER
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 189
■of the Volunteers finding the mission house on the Ahtanum deserted and a
keg of powder secreted, jumped to the conclusion that the Fathers were aiding
the Indians, and accordingly the mission was burned. Such was the end of
the first mission on the Ahtanum.
Mr. Splawn understands from the records of Father A. M. A. Blanchet
that the first mission in Yakima was the St. Rose Mission and that it was estab-
lished in 1847 at "Simkoe." Another authority is quoted by Mr. Splawn (His-
toricus, in Gonzaga Magazine, 1914) as asserting that the St. Rose Mission
was estabhshed at Chemna at the mouth of the Yakima River.
From Winthrop's narrative we find that Father Pandosy was on the Ahtanum
in 1853 and had been among the different tribes of the Yakimas for some five
years. He states that the priests told him that they spent the summers in the
Ahtanum "when the copper-colored lambs of their flock were in the mountains,
plucking berries in the dells, catching crickets on the slopes. In Winter they
resided at a station on the Yakimah eastward." Doubtless it was the Aleshecas
Mission referred to as eastward. It appears from evidence given .in the
United States courts in the subsequent suit over the mission claim at Tampico
that that mission was established in 1852. From this it would seem authorita-
tive that the Tampico Mission was established in 1852, and that the St. Rose
Mission of 1847, whether at Chemna or Simkoe, was the earliest mission. As
quoted by Mr. Splawn the founding of that mission is attributed to Fathers
Paschal Ricard and E. C. Chirouse.
It appears from the statements of Mr. David Longmire that there was a
priest located at Selah in 1853 at what is now the George Hall place.
ST. JOSEPH MISSION BURNED
The effect of the war of 1855-6 and the burning of the buildings of the St.
Joseph Mission was the suspension of the Catholic missions for a number of
jears. Fathers Pandosy, Chirouse, and D'Herbomez spent the year following
in Fort Simcoe and among the Wenatchee, Okanogan, and Spokane tribes, and
no one of them returned to Yakima. In 1867-68 Fathers St. Onge and Boulet
undertook the reestablishment of the mission on the Ahtanum. Buildings were
completed in 1870 and in the year following on July 15th, dedicatory services
were conducted by Bishop A. M. A. Blanchet. In 1870 one of the most not-
able of the Catholic missionaries located at Ahtanum. This was Father Car-
uana. Two years later came Father Grassi. These two men were typical Jesuit
missionaries, patient, zealous, and indefatigable. They served alternately in
some degree, each being assigned part of the time to the Ahtanum Mission and
part to the St. Regis Mission at Kettle Falls. It is interesting to note that in
1872 these Fathers set out an apple orchard on the Tampico place, which is now
on the A. D. Eglin ranch. In 1883 Father Grassi established Gonzaga College
at Spokane. Although Father Caruana was especially assigned to the work
among the Indians, he, like the missionaries of all the denominations, had recog-
nized the fact that the churches must look to the white population for their
main source of upbuilding. As there came to be some gathering of population
at Yakima City in the early seventies Father Caruana undertook the founding
of both a church and a school. This school was the beginning of St. Joseph's
190 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Academy for Girls, moved from the old town to North Yakima and now a
flourishing institution with fine buildings and an attendance of three hundred
pupils. Father Jean Baptiste Raiberti was first chaplain of this school.
The close of the life of Father Caruana has an element of pathos. He
had reached a great age, and after various changes of location, always keeping
up his mission work, in 1896 he went to Coeur d'Alene, where he lived in re-
tirement through his declining years. In 1913 he was urged to attend the semi-
centennial of the beginning of his mission work in Spokane. The exertion was
beyond his feeble strength and two days after his return to Coeur d'Alene he
passed away, revered by both whites and reds. He had been a missionary to
the Indians for fifty-one years.
With the administration of President Grant in 1869, a new system of mis-
sions on Indian reservations came into existence. This was the assignment of
the spiritual oversight of the natives to different churches.
In pursuance of this policy, inaugurated and announced to Congress in
1870, the Indians of the Yakima Reservation were assigned in that year to the
Methodists. This action was disastrous to the Catholic missions in Yakima,
and within a few years they were practically disbanded. As may be seen from
Father O'Hara's book on the "Catholic History of Oregon," the Catholic
Church felt that it was unjustly treated in the application of this policy. It is
asserted that they had no proper representation on the Commission of Indian
Affairs. Father De Smet asserted in a letter of March 11, 1871, that, having
been invited to attend a meeting of various church people in Washington City
to consider assignments, he found himself the only Catholic in the conference
and practically powerless to secure any consideration for his church. Never-
theless the order was made that the Catholics should be allowed to build chapels
on the Yakima Reservation. As a matter of fact, there are both Methodists
and Catholics among the Reservation Indians, though the author has been re-
cently informed by those familiar with afifairs on the Reservation that the
Indians are not inclined to adhere to any Christian Church, the dissensions in
the various denominations and their own unhappy experiences with many of
the so-called Christian race having weakened their faith in all churches.
In connection with this stage of the history we come in contact with one
of the dominant figures of Yakima history, James H. Wilbur. His history
properly belongs to that of the Reservation and we shall have much more to say
of him later. But he is fitly mentioned in connection with mission work.
He was a leading man among the first Methodist ministers and missionaries
in Oregon, a man of extraordinary power both of body and spirit. He was a
true representative of the Church Militant and the Church Triumphant, and
in case of any failure of spiritual forces he could wield those of the physical
arm v;ith an energy which made him a terror to evil doers. He became Super-
intendent of Schools on the Reservation in 1860 and in 1864 was appointed
Indian agent. In both capacities he was an earnest missionary to the Indians.
With the introduction of Grant's policy in 1870, Mr. Wilbur became able to use
both official and moral agencies for the promotion of the Methodist Church.
And he was a genuine frontier Methodist of the powerful type. His power was
great and his influence unbounded. He was agent twenty years and during
that time exercised a force among both races such as few men in the North-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY , 191
west ever did. Honored, loved, respected by all, and feared by some, Father
Wilbur was truly one of the great men of the Northwest. He passed away in
Walla Walla in 1887, at the age of seventy-seven. With the decade of the
seventies it may be said that the missionary era ended, and we shall be ready
to take up that of the immigrants.
As a final view of the early days of the Yakima missions we will close
this chapter with the promised extract from Winthrop's fascinating volume,
"Canoe and Saddle."
It will be recalled that Winthrop, an officer of the United States Army,
later losing his life in the Civil War, a soldier, traveler, poet, and all-round hero,
made a solitary journey in 1853 from Puget Sound to The Dalles by way of
the Naches Pass and the River. He had stopped on the Wenas to interview the
McClelland party of railroad engineers, and had then gone on toward "Le Play
House," as the Indians called it, the St. Joseph Mission.
This is his narrative of the approach to the Ahtanum : — "We had long ago
splashed across the Nachchese. The sun, nearing the western hills, made
every opening valley now a brilliant vista. The rattlesnake had died just on the
edge of the Atinam ridges, and Kpawintz was still brandishing his yellow and
black prey, and snapping the rattle about the flanks of his wincing roan, when
Uplintz called me to look with him up into the streaming sunshine, and see Le
Play House.
"A strange and unlovely spot for religion to have chosen for its home
influence. It needed all the transfiguring power of sunset to make this desolate
scene endurable. Even sunset, lengthening the shadow of every blade of grass,
could not create a mirage of verdant meadow there, nor stretch scrubby cotton-
wood trees to be worthy of their exaggerated shade. No region this where a
Friar Tuck would choose to rove, solacing his eremite days with greenwood
pleasures. Only ardent hermits would banish themselves to such a hermitage.
The missionary spirit, or the military religious discipline, must be very positive,
which sends men to such unattractive heathen as these, to a field of labor far
away from any contact with civilization, and where no exalting result of con-
verted multitudes can be hoped.
"The mission was a hut-like structure of adobe clay, plastered upon a
frame of sticks. It stood near the stony bed of the Atinam. The sun was just
setting as we came over against it, on the hill-side. We dashed down into the
valley, that moment abandoned by sunlight. My Indians launched forward
to pay their friendly greeting to the priests. But I observed them quickly
pause, walk their horses, and noiselessly dismount.
"As I drew near, a sound of reverent voices met me, — vespers at this sta-
tion in the wilderness. Three souls were worshipping in the rude chapel at-
tached to the house. It was rude indeed, — a cell of clay, — but a sense of the
Divine Presence was there, not less than in many dim old cathedrals, far away,
where earlier sunset had called worshippers of other race and tongue to breathe
the same thanksgiving and the same heartfelt prayer. No pageantry of ritual
such as I had often witnessed in ancient fanes of the same faith; when in-
cense filled the air and made it breathe upon the finer senses ; when from the
organ tones, large, majestical, triumphant, subduing, made my being thrill as
if music were the breath of a new life more ardent and exalting; when inward
192 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
to join the throngs that knelt there solemnly, inward to the sanctuary where
their fathers' fathers had knelt and prayed the ancestral prayers of mankind for
light and braver hope and calmer energy ; inward with the rich mists of sunset
flung back 'from dusky-'^walls of' tinre-g-lorified marble palaces, came the fair
and the mean, the desolate and the exultant, came beauty to be transfigured to
more tender beauty with gentle penitence and purifying hope, came weariness
and pain to be soothed with visions of joy undying, celestial, — came hearts
well-nigh despairing, self scourged, or cruelly betrayed, to win there dear re-
pentance strong with tears, to win the wise and agonized resolve; — never in
any temple of that ancient faith, where prayer has made its home for centuries,
has prayer seemed so mighty, worship so near the ear of God, as vespers here
at this rough shrine in the lonely valley of Atinam.
"God is not far from our lives at any moment. But we go for days and
years with no light shining forth from kindling heart to reveal to us the near
divineness. With clear and cultivated perception we take in all facts of beauty,
all the wonderment of craft, cunning adaptation, and subtile design in nature ;
we are guided through thick dangers, and mildly scourged away from enfeebling
luxury of too much bliss ; we err and sin, and gain the bitter lessons of penance ;
and all this. while we are deeming or dreaming ourselves thoughtfully religious,
and are so up to the measure of our development. But yet, after all these
years, coming at last to a wayside shrine, where men after their manner are
adoring so much of the Divine as their minds can know, we are touched with a
strange and larger sympathy, and perceive in ourselves a great awakening, and
a new and wider perception of God and the Godlike, and know that we have
entered upon another sphere of spiritual growth.
"Vespers ended. The missionaries, coming forth from their service, wel-
comed me with quiet cordiality. Visits of men not savage were rare to them
as are angels' visits to worldlings. In Winter they resided at a station on the
Yakimah in the plains eastward. Atinam was their Summer abode, when the
copper-colored lambs of their flock were in the mountains, plucking berries in
the dells, catching crickets on the slopes.
"Messrs. D'Herbomez and Pandosy had been some five years among the
different tribes of this Yakimah region, efl^ecting of course not much. They had
become influential friends, rather than spiritual guides. They could exhibit
some results of good advice in potato patches, but polygamy was too strong
for them. Kamaiakan, chiefest of Yakimah or Klickatat chiefs, sustained their
cause and accepted their admonitions in many matters of conduct, but never
asked should he or should he not invite another Mrs. Kamaiakan to share the
Tionors of his lodge. Men and Indians are firm against clerical interference
in domestic institutions. Perhaps also Kamaiakan had a vague notion of the
truth, that polygamy is not a whit more unnatural than celibacy.
Whether or not these representatives of the Society of Jesus have per-
suaded the Yakimahs to send away their supernumerary squaws, for fear of
something harsher than the good-natured amenities of purgatory, one kindly
and successful missionary work they have done, in my reception and entertain-
ment. Their fare was mine. Salmon from the stream and potatoes from their
own garden spread the board. Their sole servant, an old Canadian lay brother,
cared for my horses — for them and for me there was perfect repose."
CHAPTER VII
COMING OF THE IMMIGRANTS
FIRST COMERS GOVERNMENT EXPEDITIONS THE GREAT IMMIGRATION — FIRST
IMMIGRATION THROUGH YAKIMA — GEORGE H. HIMES' LETTER TO EZRA
MEEKER WINTHROP'S DESCRIPTION OF SCENERY AND OF ADVENTURES THE
PROVISIONAL GOVERNMENT
The Yakima country was among the later regions of the Northwest to be
■developed, but it went through essentially the same stages of history as Walla
Walla, the Willamette, the Palouse, and other parts of the country. The arid
climate of all except the parts contiguous to the mountains discouraged settle-
ment to any large degree until the time for irrigation arrived. But like other
sections it passed through the stages of gold hunting, fur hunting, cattle raising,
— and then entered into its destiny of becoming the great horticultural and or-
chard region of the state. Its stages of evolution were retarded longer, then
more rapidly accelerated than the others and finally came with a rush not
known in any other section of the inland country. It may be noted, however,
that it was the common experience of all the interior sections to be neglected
by the earliest immigrations. The first settlers all headed for the seaboard, first
the Willamette Valley, and then Puget Sound.
Hence, we find even in Walla Walla, the first to be developed of the inland
districts, that the builders were largely of those who came with the railroads
and not with the ox-teams. Much more so was it the case with Spokane and
Yakima, which could hardly be called pioneer sections at all in the sense of the
Willamette Valley, whose creators were mainly the ox-team pioneers of the de-
cades of the forties, fifties, and sixties. Yet in spite of this fact that Yakima
is, and has been, essentially a modern rather than a genuine pioneer community
in the primitive sense, many of its builders are the children or grand children
of the ox-team pioneers, and the halo of that heroic era still casts its glow over
all their childhood memories. And yet further, aside from personal connec-
tions, the era of the pioneers is one of the great working facts of American his-
tory. As a nation we were born on the move westward. Indeed we cannot
claim this great pioneer movement to be an American fact, though it is more
vividly exhibited in America and especially Western America than elsewhere.
It is in truth a world fact. While we cannot aver and we cannot bring any
rabbinical legend to prove it — we have the impression that when Adam and
Eve were just fairly recovering from the shock of expulsion from the Garden
of Eden, Eve, brushing away her tears, looked bravely toward the unknown
and said, "Let's go West, Adam!" Their descendants have been moving West
ever since. And now in the greatest cataclvsm of history, we here, where East
193
(13)
194 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
is West and West is East, — we, the children of the pioneers, are sending our
sons and our treasure both East and West, in order to teach the world that great
fundamental fact, Liberty, the boon for which our fathers moved West.
FIRST COMERS
The pioneer era was ushered in by the coming to Oregon of fur hunters,
missionaries and Httle bands of adventurers, who together composed the nucleus
of that American community which formed the Provisional Government of
1843. There were certain individuals, too, whose agency in leading the way to
the immigration movement was so unique as to deserve mention.
One of these was Hall J. Kelley of Boston. He was a native of New
Hampshire and a Harvard graduate. As early as 1815, when seventeen years
old, he conceived the idea of the colonization of Americans in Oregon. He was
a man of high scholarship, philanthropic spirit, and patriotic purpose. He was
a dreamer and idealist, planning to form a community on the Columbia, as one
of the Utopias which minds of that stamp, from Plato down, have been fond
of locating somewhere in the unexplored West. After making a great effort
with partial success, to enHst Congress in his schemes, he succeeded in organiz-
ing a company of several hundred, and by 1828 shaped the definite plan of
going to St. Louis and following the route of the fur companies across the
plains to the River of Oregon. But opposition by those same fur companies
and adverse criticism by the press broke up his enterprise for that time. In
1832 he started with a small party for the land of his dreams by the route
through Mexico and California. He met with Ewing Young, an American of
great natural abilities and some education. Young and Kelley, brainy and
original men, the former from shrewd commercial instinct and the latter from
philanthropic dreams, formed a little company, and proceeded overland from
California to Oregon. This was in the autumn of 1834. When, after some dis-
asters, the company of eleven reached the Columbia, Young took up a great
tract of land in the Chehalem Valley, where he devoted himself to stock-raising,
Kelley, having become an invalid, went in distress to Fort Vancouver, where
Doctor McLoughlin treated him with kindness, though the exclusive "British-
ers" would not admit him to "social equality." The other members of the
company were scattered in various directions, but some of them remained till
American occupancy became an accomplished fact.
This company of 1834, — the same year that the Methodist missionaries
under Jason Lee arrived — ^may be considered the advance guard of American
immigration. Kelley, upon his return to New England by way of the Sand-
wich Islands, disseminated much useful information about Oregon. To him,
without doubt, is to be attributed much of the subsequent wave of interest
which swept on toward American immigration. As first a New England col-
lege man. educator, and social theorizer, and then a leader of the pioneer move-
ment to Oregon, Hall J. Kelley is worthy of permanent remembrance.
Ewing Young became distinguished for leading the party which in 1837
drove a band of seven hundred cattle from Califomia to Oregon. This event
marked an epoch in preparing for immigration and subsequent American pos-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 195
session. One of the peculiarly noteworthy facts in connection with Young's
enterprise, is that Doctor McLoughlin, the Hudson's Bay Company's magnate,
who had at first discountenanced Young on account of a charge of stealing
brought against him from California, and who frowned upon the cattle enter-
prise for fear of American influence, became reconciled to both Young and the
cattle, and subscribed liberally to the enterprise.
The next movement may be called a real immigration to Oregon. It con-
sisted of a party of nineteen, commonly known as the "Peoria party," since they
went from Peoria, Illinois. Jason Lee, the missionary of Chemeketa, deliv-
ered a lecture at that place in 1838, and so much interest in Oregon was aroused
that in the year following, the Peoria party, the first regular party from the
Mississippi Valley, set forth for the River of the West. Their leader, T. J.
Farnham, christened his followers the "Oregon Dragoons" and Mrs. Farnham
gave them a flag with the inscription, "Oregon or the Grave." Farnham de-
clared his purpose to seize Oregon for the United States.
The Peoria party had the good fortune to have two writers with the num-
ber, v/hose accounts possess rare interest. These writers were the leader Farn-
ham, and Robert Shortess. The party went to pieces at Bent's Fort on the
Arkansas, but its members reached Oregon somewhat in driblets during that
year, and the one following. Shortess reached the Whitman Mission at Walla
Walla in the Fall of 1839, and there he remained until the following Spring,
when he went down the river to The Dalles. From The Dalles, he made his
way over the Cascade Mountains to the Willamette Valley, and there he lived
many years. Farnham also finally reached Oregon, but his avowed mission
was unfulfilled. Shortess says of him: "Instead of raising the American flag
and turning the Hudson's Bay Company out-of-doors, he accepted the gift of a
suit of clothes and a passage to the Sandwich Islands, and took a final leave of
Oregon." But upon his return to the States, Farnham published a "Pictorial
History of Oregon and California," a book of many interesting features, and
one which played a worthy part in waking the people of the Mississippi Valley
to the attractions of the Pacific Coast.
GOVERNMENT EXPEDITIONS
Soon after the close of Wyeth's enterprise, there were two notable govern-
ment expeditions to the Columbia River. One was commanded by Sir Edward
Belcher of the British Navy, and the other by Lieutenant Charles Wilkes of
the American Navy. The Wilkes Expedition was one of the most interesting
and important ever undertaken by the United States Government. The
squadron consisted of two sloops-of-war, the "Peacock" and the "Vincennes,"
the store ship, "Relief," the brig, "Porpoise," and the schooners, "Sea Gull"
and "Flying Fish." This fine squadron took up its principal station on Puget
Sound, from which extensive surveys were made, one across the mountains to
Fort Okanogan ; another to the Cowlitz Valley and the Columbia River as far
as Wallula.
One of the most important results of this elaborate Wilkes Expedition was
to estabHsh in the minds of officers of the Government the essential unity of all
196 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
parts of the Pacific Coast and the boundless opportunities offered to American
immigration. Wilkes and his intelligent officers readily grasped, and conveyed
through an elaborate report to the Government, the idea that Paget Sound was
an inherent and integral part of Oregon and that the Columbia Basin was essen-
tial to the proper development of American commerce upon the Pacific. They
may also have forecast the time when California, with her girdles of gold and
chaplets of freedom, would spring, Athena-like, from the Zeus brain of Ameri-
can enterprise. The control of the river was the key to the control of the entire
coast from San Diego to the Straits of Fuca ; and American ownership should
have extended to Sitka.
A memorable calamity occurred to the squadron upon its entrance to the
river, and that was the loss of the "Peacock" on the Columbia River bar. The
oft depicted terrors of the river were realized at that time, and yet it was not
the river's fault, for the "Peacock" was out of the channel. The spit is known
as "Peacock Spit" to this day.
Among the many episodes connecting Wilkes with the early immigration
was the building of the schooner "Star of Oregon" and her voyage to Califor-
nia for cattle. This was in 1842. It will be remembered that Ewing Young
had made a successful trip from California with cattle. But as the popu-
lation of the Columbia had increased there was a great desire among
the settlers to obtain a larger number of cattle to let loose upon the
rich pasture lands of the Willamette Valley. A little group of Ameri-
cans conceived the adventurous project of building a schooner of Oregon
timber, sailing to California and there trading her for stock and driving the
band home across the country. The schooner was built by Felix Hathaway,
Joseph Gale, and Ralph Kilbourne. The oak and fir timber of which the vessel
was built was cut on Sauvie's Island, at the mouth of the Willamette, and in
due time she was launched and taken to Willamette Falls for fitting. A diffi-
culty arose. Doctor McLoughlin refused to sell sails, cordage, and other ma-
terials. He had the only supply in Oregon. In despair the enterprising ship-
builders appealed to Lieutenant Wilkes. He felt a keen interest in their laud-
able undertaking and made a visit to McLoughlin to try to change his resolu-
tion. By assuring the Doctor that he would be responsible for all the bills, as
well as for the good conduct of the party, he induced him to allow the requisi-
tion for all materials necessary to complete the gallant craft. Gale was the only
sailor in the party. Having satisfied Wilkes that he was qualified to command
a ship, and having received from him a present of a flag, an ensign, a com-
pass, kedge-anchor, hawser, log line, and two log glasses, the captain flung the
flag to the Oregon breeze and turned the prow of the "Star of Oregon" toward
the river's mouth. She may be remembered as the first sea-going vessel built
of Oregon timber. Crossing the bar in a storm, she sped southward in a spank-
ing breeze, all hands seasick except Gale. He held the wheel thirty-six hours
continuously and in five days "dashed through the portals of the Golden Gate
like an arrow, September 17, 1842."
As it was too late to get the cattle back to Oregon that fall, the party sold
their schooner for three hundred and fifty cows, wintered in California, and the
next Spring drove to the Columbia twelve hundred and fifty head of cattle,
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY I97
six hundred head of mules and horses, and three thousand sheep. This was
an achievement which made the way for immigration clearer than ever before,
and in a most effective manner united the American settlers with the American
Government. Some of the Hudson's Bay Company people could begin to see
the handwriting on the wall. Doctor McLoughlin saw most quickly and most
clearly, and as elsewhere narrated, began to transfer his interests to the Amer-
ican side. This fine old man was big-brained, big-bodied, and big-souled, a nat-
ural American, though compelled to work for the British fur monopolists for
the time. He admired the independent spirit of the incoming Yankee immi-
grants, even when the joke was on him. He afterwards told with much gusto
of an American named Woods crossing the Columbia to Vancouver to try to get
goods. He found his credit shaky, and somewhat piqued, he exclaimed : "Well,
never mind, I have an uncle back east rich enough to buy out the whole of your
old Hudson's Bay Company!" "Well, well, Mr. Woods," demanded the auto-
crat, "who may this very rich uncle of yours be?" "Uncle Sam," was the un-
abashed and characteristic American reply. "Old Whitehead" also appreciated,
though he was obliged to manifest a dignified disapproval, when two young
men from New York, having reached the fort on the river, were asked about
their passports. Laying their hands on their rifles they replied, "These are an
American's passports."
These small miscellaneous immigrations were in continuance from about
1830 to 1842. In the latter year a hundred came. In 1843, as elsewhere re-
lated, the Provisional Government was instituted. At the very same time,
the immigration of 1843 was on its way to the river.
THE GREAT IMMIGRATION
This immigration of 1843 was in many respects The most remarkable of all.
It was the first large one, and it was a type of all. It will be remembered that
Dr. Marcus Whitman had made his great Winter ride in 1842-43 across the
Rockies to St. Louis, with a double aim. First he wished to see the officers of
the American Board of Missions and then to enlist the American Government
and people in the policy of holding Oregon. This was against the manifest
aims of the British. There was already a tremendous interest felt in Oregon
among the people of Missouri, Illinois, and the other great Prairie States.
Whitman's opportune arrival and his announced purpose to guide an immigra-
tion to the Columbia became widely known, and brought to a focus many
vaguely-considered plans.
J. W. Nesmith, subsequently one of the most prominent pioneers and a
member of each House of Congress from Oregon, has given a humorous ac-
count of the manner of starting this immigration of 1843, of which he was a
member, which is so characteristic that we quote it here. "Mr. Burnett, ( or as
he was more familiarly styled, 'Pete,' was called upon for a speech. Mounting
a log, the glib tongued orator delivered a glowing, florid address. He com-
menced by showing his audience that the then western tier of states and terri-
tories were crowded with a redundant population, who had not sufficient- elbow
room for the expansion of their enterprise and genius, and it was a duty they
198 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
owed to themselves and posterity to strike out in search of a more expanded
field and a more genial climate, where the soil yielded the richest return for
the slightest amount of cultivation, — where the trees were loaded with perennial
fruit, — and where a good substitute for bread, called La Camash, grew in the
ground ; where salmon and other fish crowded the stream ; and where the
principal labor of the settlers would be confined to keeping their gardens free
from the inroads of buffalo, elk, deer, and wild turkeys. He appealed to our
patriotism by picturing forth the glorious empire we should establish upon the
shores of the Pacific, — how with our trusty rifles we should drive out the British
usurpers who claimed the soil, and defend the country from the avarice and pre-
tensions of the British Lion, — and how posterity would honor us for placing
the fairest portion of the land under the Stars and Stripes. * * * Other
speeches were made full of glowing description of the fair land of promise, the
far-away Oregon, which no one in the assemblage had ever seen, and about
which not more than half a dozen had ever read any account. After the elec-
tion of Mr. Burnett as captain, and other necessary officers, the meeting, as
motley and primitive a one as ever assembled, adjourned, with 'three cheers'
for Captain Burnett and Oregon."
Peter Burnett to whom Nesmith here refers, was the same who became
the first Governor of California.
By the walnut hearth-fires in many a home of the Prairie States and at the
corn-huskings and quilting bees the talk of Oregon and the forests of the Colum-
bia, and the rich pasture lands of the Willamette, and the salmon and game, and
genial climate and majestic mountains, went the rounds. Interest grew into
enthusiasm, enthusiasm waxed hot, and in the early Spring the great immigra-
tion of 1843 set forth from Westport, Missouri, for the Columbia waters.
Though the immigration of 1843 was the earliest of any size and the first with
any number of women and children, it had perhaps the least trouble and mis-
fortune and the most romance and gayety and enthusiasm of any. The experi-
ence of crossing the plains was one which nothing else could duplicate — the
hasty rising in the chill damp of the morning, the preparing the cattle and horses
for the long, hard drive, the rounds of the wagons to strengthen bolts and
tires and tongues, the loading of the rifles for possible hostile Indian or
buffalo, the setting forth of the scouts on horseback, the long train strung across
the dusty plain, the occasional bands of wild Indians emerging like a whirl-
wind from the broad expanse, and then the approaching cool of night with its
hurried rest on the tough prairie sod. Sometimes there were nights of
storm and stampede and darkness. Sometimes savage beasts and savage men
startled the train, or one of the stupendous herds of buffalo went thundering
across the prairie. Then came the first glimpse of snowy heights, then of deep
canyons, and then the summit was attained, and far westward stretched the
maze of plains and mountains through which the Snake River, the greatest of
the tributaries of the Columbia, took its swift way.
During most of the journey Dr. Marcus Whitman was guide, physician,
and friend. While severe controversy has arisen as to the extent of his services
in organizing the immigration, the testimony is unvarying as to the value of
his presence with the train. Last to bed at night and first up in the morning,
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 199
attending the people, cattle, and horses in their sicknesses and accidents, ahead
of the train on horseback to find the passes of the hills and the fords of the
rivers, the watcher by night and the pilot by day, the missionary doctor was the
veritable "Mr. Greatheart" of the immigration.
Great was the astonishment of Captain Grant, commandant of the Hud-
son's Bay Company's Fort Hall on Snake River, near the present Pocatello,
when the long train filed past the enclosure. Grant had known Whitman before
and was aware of his stubborn determination and patriotic purpose. But Grant
attempted just the same to dissuade the immigrants of 1843 from going farther
with their wagons, declaring the Blue Mountains to be impassable. But on the
immigrants went westward. A band of Indians from Waiilatpu, headed by
Sticcus, came to meet the train, searching for Whitman, telling him that his
medical services were in great demand at Lapwai. The much-needed guide
turned over the pilotage of the train to Sticcus, and he himself hastened on to
minister to the sick at Lapwai. As he passed through Waiilatpu he learned
that the threatening conduct of the Indians had led Mrs. Whitman to go to
Vancouver, and that during his absence the Indians had burned his mill and
committed other depredations. But it was his lot to labor and suffer. He had
become accustomed to it.
The event proved that Sticcus was a thoroughly capable guide. For
though not speaking a word of English, he made his directions so well under-
stood by pantomime that, as Mr. Nesmith has said, he led them safely over the
roughest mountain road that they ever saw. And so in due time the train
emerged from the screen of timber on the Blue Mountains. Stretched wide
before them lay the plains of Umatilla and Walla Walla, while in the far dis-
tance the "River of the West" poured through the arid waste. Yet farther the
snow summits of the Cascade ridged the western sky. After a brief pause at
Waiilatpu, the train reached the banks of the river. The immediate vicinity of
the section of the river first reached is very dry in Autumn. Aside from the
river itself, the immediate scene is desolate and forbidding. But probably those
immigrants of '43 gazed upon the blue flood, a mile wide and hastening to the
western ocean, with feelings almost akin to those which swelled the hearts of
the Pilgrims landing from the Mayflower. This was another epic of state-
making, and one generation after another of the Americans who have wrought
such achievement may well turn back to join hands with those before.
Doubtless the immigrants, as they stood by the river in the pleasant haze
of the October afternoon, felt as though their journey was substantially at an
end. Being now at Fort Walla Walla on the river of that name, they paused
to make ready for the last stage of the journey, little realizing what perils and
sufferings it would entail. Doctor Whitman and Archibald McKinley, the chief
factor at the fort, advised them to leave their cattle and wagons to winter on
the Walla Walla, while they pursued their way down the stream on flatboats.
Part of the company accepted the advice, but a number determined to keep all
their belongings together and to take the road along the bank of the river to
The Dalles, and there make flatboats.
To those who remained on the Walla Walla now fell the difficult task of
constructing flatboats. Huge, uncouth structures they were, made of timber
200 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
gathered on the river bank. But when loaded and pushed out into the swift
current, steered with immense sweeps in the stern, these floatboats afforded
to the footsore and exhausted immigrants a dehghtful change. Out of the dust,
off the rocks, away from the sagebrush, with more of laugh and song than they
had had for many a day, they swept gaily on. For a hundred miles or more
the elements were propitious. With the bright sunshine, the clear, cool water,
the majestic snow peaks in the distance, the easily gliding boats, this seemed
the pleasantest part of the entire journey. But after The Dalles had been
reached and the two divisions of the company were again united and on their
way down the River to the Cascades, disaster began to haunt them.
From the Cascades to Vancouver, the company suiifered more than in all
the rest of their journey. The Fall rains were at hand, and it poured with an
unremitting energy such as no one can realize who has not seen a rain storm
on the lower River. Food had become almost exhausted. Clothing was in
rags. Tired, hungry, wet, cold, disheartened, the immigrants who had so
jauntily descended the River to this "Strait of Horrors" presented a most woeful
appearance. It actually seemed that many must perish. But in the crisis, help
came. One of the party managed to procure a canoe and hastened down the
River to Fort Vancouver. As soon as Dr. McLoughlin learned that nearly nine
hundred men, women and children were beleaguered in the mist and chill, he
equipped boats with flour, meat and tea, and, in his choleric excitement, waving
his huge cane, bade the boatman hurry to the rescue. It was not business for
the good Doctor to thus aid and abet American immigrants, and the directors
of the Hudson's Bay Company and the cold-blooded Sir George Simpson,
governor-in-chief, disapproved. But it was humanity, and that ever predomi-
nated in the mind of "Old Whitehead." The next night he caused vast bonfires
to be alight along the bank, and gathered all the eatables and blankets that
the place afforded. When boat loads of the battered, but rescued Americans
drew near the Doctor was on the bank to meet them, to hand out the women
and children, to administer the balm of cheery words and warmth and
food. Few were the travelers on the river, none were the immigrants of
'43, who would not rise up and call him blessed.
After this happy pause at Vancouver, the immigration passed on to the
Willamette Falls, then the center of operations in Oregon, and there they were
soon joined by the chosen men who had driven their thireteen hundred head
of cattle by the trail over the Cascade Mountains, a task toilsome and even
distressing, but one that was accomplished. After an inactive winter in the
mild, muggy, misty Oregon climate, the immigrants of '43 spread abroad in
the opening Spring to secure land, each his square mile, as the Provisional
Government provided, and as the American government was contemplating.
Such was the coming of tbe immigrants to the River. Subsequent immi-
grations bore a general resemblance to that of 1843. Each had its special
feature. That of 1845 was conspicuous for its size. It was three thousand
strong. It was also illustrious for the laying out of the road across the Cas-
cade Mountains, near the southern flank of Mount Hood. This noble and diffi-
cult undertaking was carried through by S. K. Barlow and William Rector. It
was a terrific task, and not completed the first year. Canons, precipitous rocks.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 20t
morasses, sandhills, tangled forests, fallen trees, criss-crossed and interlaced
with briars and vines and shrubbery of tropical luxuriance, such as no one can
appreciate who has not seen an Oregon jungle — these were the obstructions tO'
the Barlow Road. But they were vanquished, and in 1846 and thence onward
the immigrants made this the regular route to the Willamette Valley. So steep-
was Laurel Hill on the western slope that wagons had to be let down by ropes
from level to level. The marks of the ropes or chains are still seen on the trees-
of Laurel Hill. The immigration of 1852 was sadly conspicuous for the devas-
tations of cholera. Many a family was broken in sunder and some even were
entirely eliminated by the dreadful plague. The immigrations of 1854 and 1855'
were notable for the Indian outbreaks, and especially for the atrocious butchery
of the Ward family, near Boise, in the earlier year, the most pitiless Indian,
outrage in Oregon history.
From 1850 onward for some years the Donation Land Law of Congress,
was a great lure to immigrants, for by it a man and wife could obtain a section
of land. A single man could take up half a section. That situation encouraged
early marriages. Girls were in great demand. It was no uncommon thing to
see fourteen-year-old brides. Some narrators relate having found married
women in the woods of the Columbia who were playing with their dolls ! But,
though the immigrations varied in special features, they were all alike in their
mingling of mirth and melancholy, of toil and rest, of suffering and enjoyment,,
of heroism and self-sacrifice. They embodied an epoch of American history
that can never come again. To have been an immigrant from the Missouri
to the Columbia was an experience to which nothing else on earth is compar-
able. It confers a title of American nobility by the side of which the coronets-
of some European dukes are tawdry and contemptible. Perhaps no one ever
better phrased the spirit of Oregon immigration than Jesse Applegate, of the
train of '43, one of the foremost of Oregon's builders, long known as the
"Sage of Yoncalla." So fitting do we deem his language that we quote here
an extract from one of his addresses :
"The Western pioneer had probably crossed the Blue Ridge or the Cum-
berland Mountains when a boy and was now in his prime. Rugged, hardy,,
and powerful of frame, he was full to overflowing with the love of adventure,,
and animated by a brave soul that scorned the very idea of fear. All had
heard of the perpetually green hills and plains of western Oregon, and how the
warm breath of the vast Pacific tempered the air to the genial degree and
drove Winter back to the north. Many of them contrasted in imagination the
open stretch of a mile square of rich, green, and grassy land, where the straw-
berry plant bloomed through every Winter month, with their circumscribed
clearings in the Missouri bottoms. Of long Winter evenings neighbors visited
each other, and before the big shell-bark hickory fire, the seasoned walnut fire,
the dry black-jack fire, or the roaring dead elm fire, they talked these things
over; and as a natural consequence, under these favorable circumstances, the
spirit of emigration warmed up; and the "Oregon fever" became as a household
expression. Thus originated the vast cavalcade, or emigrant train, stretching:
its serpentine length for miles, enveloped in vast pillars of dust, patiently wend-
ing its toilsome way across the American continent.
202 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
"How familiar these scenes and experiences with the old pioneers! The
vast plains, the uncountable herds of buffalo; the swift-footed antelope; the
bands of mounted, painted warriors; the rugged, snow-capped mountain ranges;
the deep, swift, and dangerous rivers, the lonesome howl of the wild wolf; the
.midnight yell of the assaulting savage; the awful panic and stampede; the
solemn and silent funeral at the dead hour of night, and the lonely and hidden
grave of departed friends, — what memories are associated with the Plains
across!"
FIRST IMMIGRATION THROUGH YAKIMA
To readers of this volume the most interesting immigration in many respects
is that of 1853. This was the first to pass through the Yakima Valley and
-over the Naches Pass to Puget Sound. We have the inestimable privilege of
the residence in Yakima County of a participant in that historic immigration.
This is David Longmire, one of the most honored of pioneers, whose clear
mind and tenacious memory make his recollections a treasury of valuable
information about that immigration as well as other phases of history with
which he has been connected, while his genial and kindly disposition has made
friends of all who know him. Mr. Longmire prepared an account with a list
-of names for the Washington Historical Quarterly of January, 1917, which is
so valuable that we incorporate it here.
Aiken, A. G. ; Aiken, James ; Aiken, John ; Baker, Bartholomew C. ; Baker,
Mrs. Fanny; Baker, James E. ; Baker, John Wesley; Baker, Leander H. ; Baker,
lilijah; Baker, Mrs. Olive; Baker, Joseph N. ; Baker, William LeRoy; Barr,
James; Bell, James; Bell, Mrs. Eliza (Wright) ; Bennett, William; Biles, James;
Biles, Mrs. Nancy M. ; Biles, George W. : Biles, James B. ; Biles, Clark; Biles,
Mrs. Kate (Sargent); Biles, Mrs. Susan Belle (Drew); Biles, Mrs. Euphemia
(Brazee) (Knapp) ; Biles, Margaret; Bourne, Alexander; Bowers, John;
■Burnett, Frederick ; Brooks, Mrs. Martha (Young) ; Byles, Rev. Charles ; Byles,
Mrs. Sarah W. ; Byles, David F. ; Byles, Charles N. ; Byles, Mrs. Rebecca E.
(Goodell) ; Byles, Mrs. Sarah I. (Ward); Byles, Luther; Claflin, William;
Clinton, Wesley ; Davis, Varine ; Day, Joseph ; Downey, William R. ; Downey,
Mrs. William R. ; Downey, Christopher Columbus ; Downey, George W. ;
Downey, James H. ; Downey, William A. ; Downey, R. M. ; Downey,
John M. ; Downey, Mrs. Louise (Guess) ; Downey, Mrs. Jane (Clark) ;
Downey, Mrs. Susan (Lathm) ; Downey, Mrs. Laura Belle (Bartlett) ;
Finch, Henry C. ; Fitch, Charles Reuben ; Frazier, ; Frazier, Mrs.
Elizabeth: Gotzen, G. ; Guess, Mason F. ; Guess, Wilson; Gant, James;
■Gant, Mrs. James ; Gant, Harris ; Gant, Mrs. Harris ; Greenman, Clark
N. ; Hampton J. Wilson ; Himes, Tyrus ; Himes, Mrs. Emiline ; Himes,
George H. ; Himes, Mrs. Helen Z. (Ruddell) ; Himes, Judson W. ;
Himes, Mrs. Lestina Z. (Eaton) ; Hill, Mrs. Marj- Jane (Byles) ; Horn,
Thomas; Horn, Mrs. Thomas; Johns, Benjamin; Judson, Peter; Judson, Mrs.
Peter ; Judson, Stephen ; Judson, John Paul ; Kilborn, Norman ; Kincaid,
William M. ; Kincaid, Mrs. Susannah (Thompson) ; Kincaid, Ruth Jane
(McCarty) ; Kincaid, Joseph C. ; Kincaid, Mrs. Laura (Meade); Kincaid,
James; Kincaid. William Christopher; Kincaid, John; Lane, Mrs. Daniel E. ;
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 203
Lane, Edward; Lane, Daniel E. ; Lane, William; Lane, Timothy; Lane, Albert;
Lane, John; Lane, Mrs. Elizabeth (Whitesel) ; Lane, Mrs. Abigail; Light, Eras-
tus A. ; Light, Mrs. Erastus A. ; Light, Henry ; Light, Harvey ; Longmire,
James; Longmire, Mrs. James; Longmire, Elcaine; Longmire, Mrs. Tillathi
(Kandle) ; Longmire, John A.; Longmire, David; McCullough, James; McCul-
lough, Mrs. Julia Amy; McCullough, Mrs. Mary Frances (Porter); McCul-
lough, Flora, now a sister of charity in Montreal ; Meller, Mrs. Gertrude
(DeLin) ; Moyer, John B. ; Melville, George; Melville, Mrs. George; Melville,
Mrs. Kate (Thompson); Melville, Robert; Mitchell, Henry; Morrison; Neisan,
John ; Ogle, Van., now ninety-three years old, living at Orting, Washington ;
Ragan, Henry; Ragan, John; Ray, Henry; Ray, Sam; Risdon, Henry; Risdon,
Joel; Rockfield, H. ; Sarjent, Asher; Sarjent, Mrs. Asher; Sarjent, E. N. ;
Sarjent, Francis Marion; Sarjent, Wilson; Sarjent, Mrs. Matilda (Saylor) ;
Sarjent, Mrs. Rebecca (Kellett) ; Sperry, J. A.; Stewart, Mr. ; Steward,
Mrs. ; Steward, Miss; Steward, Celia; six more children of Steward fam-
ily, names unknown ; Watts, Evan ; West, Newton ; Whitmore, Seymour ;
Woolery, Isaac; Woolery, Mrs. Margaret; Woolery, Mrs. Agnes (Lamon) ;
Woolery, James Henderson ; Woolery, Robert Lemuel ; Woolery, Mrs. Sarah
Jane (Ward); Woolery, Abraham; Woolery, Garden; Woolery, Mrs. Abraham
(Aunt Pop), Mary Ann; Woolery, Jacob Francis; Woolery, Daniel Henry;
Whitesel, William; Whitesel, William Henry; Whitesel, Mrs. Nancy (Leach);
Whitesel, Margaret ; Whitesel, Alexander ; Whitesel, Cal. ; Wright, Israel H. ;
Wright, Mrs. Israel H. ; Wright, Benjamin F. ; Wright, Mrs. Benjamin F. ;
Wright, James; Wright, Mrs. Eliza (Bell); Wright, Mrs. Rebecca (Moore);
Wright, William; Wright, Byrd; Wright, Carl; Wright (Grandfather) ; Wright
(Grandmother); Wright, Mrs. Annis (Downey); West, Newton; Woodward,
John W. ; Young, Austin E.
Mr. Longmire states that there were two sections of the train — one of 146
persons with thirty-six wagons, the other of thirty-nine persons. On the
Umatilla, where Pendleton now is, the party having been induced to go to the
Sound direct, across the Cascade Mountains through the Yakima Valley, left
the Oregon Road and crossing the plains where Athena now is, passed the
former Whitman Station at Waiilatpu and thence to Fort Walla Walla (Wal-
lula.) About twenty-one of the party, however, continued down the Orego-ft
Road to Portland. One of the most interesting statements of Mr. Longmire
pertains to the kindness shown the party by the Walla Walla chief, Peupeu-
moxmox. He and his brother slaughtered a fat beef for them, assisted them
across the Columbia, and guided them across the Yakima and on their way
north. The brother unintentionally took them from their intended course, but,
as Mr. Longmire says, "that was not his fault." They had told him that they
wanted to go "where the soldiers were." They had in mind the soldiers on
Puget Sound, but the Indian thought that they referred to the soldiers at Fort
Colville and headed them in that direction. When they had reached sight of
White Blufifs on the Columbia they perceived the mistake and, turning west,
passed through the sagebrush prairies north of Rattlesnake Mountain and
thence by an easy and direct course to the present location of Selah and on to
the Wenas. They followed the Wenas about twelve miles above Mr. Longmire's
204 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY ^
present place, then crossed the ridge to the Naches, reaching that stream two
miles above the mouth of Nile Creek.
Considering that this was the first party on the Naches Road, and that
they mainly constructed their own road, they made remarkably good time. The
crossing of the Columbia was on September 8th, and they reached Nisqually
Plains October 10th or 12th, being strung out somewhat on the way. Mr.
Longmire states that the immigration was greatly favored in respect to health,,
but one death, that of James McCullough, occurring on the way. That was
near the mouth of the Yakima, and Mr. McCullough was, in Mr. Longmire's
judgment, the first white man to be buried in the Yakima Valley. We may
conjecture, however, that during the era of the fur traders other whites may
have ended their days here.
A second section of immigrants crossed the mountains about three weeks
after the main train. As given by Mr. Longmire, these were the following:
William Mitchell, from whom the famous hotel at Olympia derived its name;.
Ira Woodin, who started the first tannery in Seattle ; Mrs. Ira Woodin, Samuel
Homes, Mrs. Samuel Homes, Louisa Homes, Frederic Homes, Florence
Homes, Rev. Mr. Morrison and family, Mr. Shock, Mrs. Shock, William B.
Johns ; Martha T. Johns, who became the wife of William Mitchell, and six
more Johns children; Mr. Livingston and two daughters, one of whom became
the wife of William Brannan, the whole family being murdered by Indians in
the Fall of 1855, and thrown by the murderers into a well at a point near the-
present town of Orting. Alexander Barnes was also a member of that immi-
gration.
The only members of the train in the party that continued to Portland, that
Mr. Longmire has on his records, were the Bakers, the Burnetts, Joseph Day
and the Gant family, a mother and five children.
This immigration of 1853 is fittingly commemorated by a granite monument
a short distance from Mr. Longmire's house. It stands by the roadside in a
conspicuous place, from which there is a commanding view of the beautiful
and historic Wenas Valley. It was erected by the Yakima Pioneer Association,,
and was dedicated September 20, 1917. The inscription is this: —
CHIEF OW-Hl's GARDENS.
FIRST EMIGR.\NT TRAIN
SEPT. 20, 1853.
M'CLELLAN's HEADQUARTERS.
fAKIMA PIONEER ASSOCIATION,
SEPT. 20, 1917.
As this fine monument is on the highway from the east over Snoqualmie
Pass, one of the finest scenic highways in the United States, thousands of
passing tourists stop to view this historical spot, and beyond any other similar
monument in this part of the state, it fulfills its mission of educating the
American people in the significant stages of national history. It is not too much
to «ay that this first emigrant train across central Washington and the Cascade
Mountains to Puget Sound was an event second only to the incoming of the
it^ii^itf^i
iiiSik^ii
ft V t
^'MditJlii'
'jmm
"'""' ' - •^'-*^ ^Wi»i i|«p„,
;o.\Ux\rp:xT UEDicATr.n ski'tkmbkr l'o, ion, ox david longmire'p eaxch
IN YAKIMA ('OINTV, WASHINGTON, COMMEMORATING THE COMING OF
THE ?"IKST KMKfl.'ANTS INTO YAKIMA COUNTY
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 205
train of 1843, the arrival of wliich in Oregon was one of the great determining
events in the American acquirement of Oregon.
The incoming of this train of 1853 was so important that we feel sure
that our readers would be glad to see still other narrations, and we therefore
incorporate here a letter written by George H. Himes, of Portland, and given
in Ezra Meeker's "Pioneer Reminiscences."
The letter follows :
"Portland, Oregon, January 23, 1905.
■"My Dear Meeker:
"Some time early in August, 1853, Nelson Sargent, from Puget Sound,
met our party in Grande Ronde Valley, saying to his father, Asher Sargent,
mother, two sisters and two brothers, and such others as he could make an
impression on, 'You want to go to Puget Sound. This is a better country than
the Willamette Valley. All the good land is taken up there; but in the Sound
region you can have the pick of the best. The settlers on Puget Sound have
cut a road through Natchess Pass, and you can go direct from the Columbia
through the Cascade Mountains, thus avoiding the more wearisome trip through
the mountains over the Barlow route to Portland, and then down the Columbia
to Cowlitz River, and then over a miserable road to Puget Sound.'
"A word about the Sargents. Asher Sargent and his son Nelson left
Indiana in 1849 for California. The next year they drifted northward to the
northern part of Oregon, on Puget Sound. Some time late in 1850 Nelson and
a number of others were shipwrecked on Queen Charlotte Island, and remained
among the savages for several months. The father, not hearing from the son,
supposed he was lost, and in 1851 returned to Indiana. Being rescued in time.
Nelson wrote home that he was safe; so in the Spring of 1853 the Sargents,
Longmires, Van Ogles, and possibly some others from Indiana, started for
Oregon. Somewhere on the Platte the Bileses (two families). Bakers (two
families), Downeys, Kincaids, my father's family (Tyrus Himes), John Dodge
and family — John Dodge did the stone work on the original Territorial Uni-
versity Building at Seattle; Tyrus Himes was the first boot and shoe maker
north of the Columbia River ; James Biles was the first tanner, and a lady,
Mrs. Frazier, was the first milliner and dressmaker — all met and journeyed
westward peaceably together, all bound for Willamette Valley. The effect of
Nelson Sargent's presence and portrayal of the magnificent future of Puget
Sound caused most members of this company of 140 or more persons, or the
leaders thereof, James Biles being the most conspicuous, to follow his (Sar-
gent's) leadership. At length the Umatilla camp ground was reached, which
was situated about three miles below the present city of Pendleton. From
that point the company headed for old Fort Walla Walla (Wallula of today),
on the Columbia River. It was understood that there would be no difficulty in
crossing, but no boat was found. Hence, a flatboat was made by whipsawing
lumber out of driftwood. Then we went up the Yakima River, crossing it
eight times. Then to the Natchess River, through the sagebrush, frequently
as high as a covered wagon, which had to be cut down before we could pass
through it. On September 15th we reached the mountains and found that
there was no road, nothing but an Indian trail to follow. Indeed, there was
206 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
no road whatever after leaving the Cokmibia, and nothing but a trail from the
Umatilla to the Columbia; and being an open country, we had no particular
difficulty in making headway, but I remember all hands felt quite serious the
night we camped in the edge of the timber, the first of any consequence that
we had seen, on the night of the 15th of September. Sargent said he knew
the settlers had started to make a road, and could not understand why it was
not completed ; and since his parents, brother and sisters were in the company,
most of us believed that he did not intend to deceive. However, there was no
course to pursue but to go forward. So we pushed on as best we could, follow-
ing the bed of the stream part of the time, first on one bank and then on the
other. Every little ways we would reach a point too difficult to pass ; then we
would go to the high ground and cut our way through the timber, frequently
not making more than two or three miles a day. Altogether, the Natchess was
crossed sixty-eight times. On this journey there was a stretch of fifty miles
without a blade of grass the sole subsistence of cattle and horses being browse
from young maple and alder trees, which was not very filling, to say the least.
In making the road every person from ten years old up lent a hand, and there
is where your humble servant had his first lessons in trail making, bare footed
to boot, but not much, if any, worse off than many others. It was certainly a
strenuous time for the women, and many were the forebodings indulged in as
to the probability of getting safely through. One woman, 'Aunt Pop,' as she
was called — one of the Woolery women — would break down and shed tears
now and then ; but in the midst of her weeping she would rally, and by some
quaint remark or funny story, would cause everybody in her vicinity to forget
their troubles.
"In due time the summit of the Cascades was reached. Here there was a
small prairie — really, it was an old burn that had not grown up to timber of
any size. Now it was October, about the 8th of the month, and bitter cold
to the youth with bare feet and fringed pants extending half-way down from
knees to feet. My father and the teams had left camp and gone across the
little burn, where most of the company was assembled, apparently debating
about the next movement to make. And no wonder; for as we came across we
saw the cause of the delay. For a sheer thirty feet or more there was an
almost perpendicular bluff, and the only way to go forward was by that way,
as was demonstrated by an examination all about the vicinity. Heavy timber
at all other points precluded the possibility of getting on by any other route.
So the longest rope in the company was stretched down the cliff, leaving just
enough to be used twice around a small tree which stood on the brink of the
precipice-; but it was found to be altogether too short. Then James Biles
said : 'Kill one of the poorest of my steers and make his hide into a rope and
attach it to the one you have.' Three animals were slaughtered before a rope
could be secured long enough to let the wagons down to a point where they
would stand up. Then one yoke of oxen was hitched to a wagon, and, by
locking all wheels and hitching on small logs with projecting limbs, it was
taken down to a stream then known as 'Greenwater.' It took the best part of
two days to make this descent. There were thirty-six wagons belonging to the
company, but two of them with a small quantity of provisions, were wrecked
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 207
on this hill. The wagons could have been dispensed with without much loss.
Not so the provisions, scanty as they were, as the company came to be in sore
straits for food before the White River prairie was reached, probably South
Prairie of today, where food supplies were first obtained, consisting of potatoes
without salt for the first meal. Another trying experience was the ascent of
Mud Mountain in a drenching rain, with the strength of a dozen yoke of oxen
attached to one wagon, with scarcely anything in it save camp equipment, and
taxing the strength of the teams to the utmost. But all trials came to an end
when the company reached a point six miles from Steilacoom, about October
17th, and got some good, fat beef and plenty of potatoes, and even flour, mainly
through the kindness of Dr. W. F. Tolmie. The change from salmon skins
was gratifying.
"And now a word about the wagon road that had been cut through to
Greenwater. There, it seems, according to a statement made to me a number
of years ago by James Longmire, and confirmed by W. O. Bush, one of the
workers, an Indian from the east side of the mountains, met the road workers,
who inquired of him whether there was any 'Boston men' coming through.
He replied, 'Wake' — no. Further inquiry satisfied the road builders that the
Indian was truthful, hence they at once returned to the settlements, only to
be greatly astonished two weeks later to find a weary, bedraggled, forlorn,
hungry and footsore company of people of both sexes, from the babe in arms —
my sister was perhaps the youngest, eleven months old, when we ceased travel-
ing— to the man of fifty-five years, but all rejoicing to think that after trials
indescribable they had at last reached the 'Promised Land.'
"Mrs. James Longmire says that soon after descending the big hill from
the summif, perhaps early the next day, as she was a few hundred yards in
advance of the teams, leading her little girl three years and two months old,
and carrying her baby boy, then fifteen months old, she remembers meeting
a man coming toward the immigrants leading a pack animal, who said to her:
'Good God Almighty, woman, where did you com.e from? Is there any more?
Why, you can never get through this way. You will have to turn back. There
is not a blade of grass for fifty miles.' She replied: 'We can't go back; we've
got to go forward.'
"Soon he ascended the hill by a long detour and gave supplies to the immi-
grants. Mrs. Longmire says she remembers hearing this man, called 'Andy,'
and is of the opinion that it was Andy Burge.
"When the immigrant party got to a point supposed to be about six miles
from Steilacoom, or possibly near the cabin of John Lackey, it camped. Vege-
tables were given them by Lackey, and also by a man named Mahon. Doctor
Tolmie gave a beef. When that was sent to the camp the Doctor gave it in
charge of Mrs. Mary Ann Woolery — 'Atmt Pop' — and instructed her to keep
it intact until the two oldest men in the company came in, and that they were
to djvide it evenly. Soon a man came with a knife and said he was going to
have some meat. Mrs. Woolery said: 'No, sir.' He replied: 'I am hungry,
and I am going to have some of it.' In response she said : 'So are the rest of
us hungry ; but that man said I was not to allow anyone to touch it until the two
oldest men came into camp, and they would divide it evenly.' He said: 'I
208 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \'ALLEY
can't wait for that.' She said: 'You will have to.' He then said: 'By what
authority?' 'There is my authority,' holding up her fist— she weighed a hun-
dred pounds then — and she said: 'You touch that meat and I'll take that ox
bow to you,' grabbing hold of one. The man then subsided. Soon the two
■oldest men came into camp. The meat was divided according to Doctor Tolmie's
■directions, and, with the vegetables that had been given by the settlers, all
hands had an old-fashioned boiled supper — the first for many a day.
"I know from experience just what such a supper meant to that camp and
.how it tasted. God bless that company. I came to know nearly all of them
personally, and a bigger hearted set never lived. They earned the right to be
■called Pioneers in the true sense of the word, but a large percentage have gone
on to pleasant paths, where the remainder of us are soon to be joined in
■enduring fellowship."
In this book Mr. Meeker gives a story of Mr. Himes, who was the ten-
year-old boy referred to, so interesting that it also is given here as illustrative
of those strenuous times of '53.
"The struggle over that ten miles, where to a certain extent each party
became so intent on its particular surroundings as to forget all else, the women
and children were left to take care of themselves while the husbands tugged
at the wagons. I now have in mind to relate the experience of one of these
mothers with a ten-year-old boy, one child of four years and another of eight
months.
"Part of the time these people traveled on the old 'trail and part on the
newly-cut road, and by some means fell behind the wagons, which forded that
turbulent, dangerous stream. White River, before they reached the bank, and
were out of sight, not knowing but the woman and children were ahead.
"I wish every little boy of ten years of age of this great state, or, for that
matter, twenty years old or more, could read and profit by what I am now
going to relate, especially if that little or big boy at times thinks he is having
a hard time because he is asked to help his mother or father at odd times, or
perchance to put in a good solid day's work on Saturday, instead of spending
it as a holiday ; or, if he has a cow to milk or wood to split, or anything that is
work, to make him bewail his fate for having such a hard lime in life. I think
the reading of the experience of this little ten-year-old boy, with his mother
and two smaller children, would encourage him to feel more cheerful and more
content with his lot.
"As I have said, the wagons had passed on, and there these four people
were on the right bank of the river while their whole company was on the
opposite bank and had left them there alone.
"A large fallen tree reached across the river, but the top on the farther
side lay so close to the water that a constant trembling and swaying made the
trip dangerous.
"Npne of them had eaten anything since the previous day, and but a scant
supply then ; but the boy resolutely shouldered the four-year-old and safely
deposited him on the other side. He next took the baby across, then came the
mother.
" 'I can't go !' she exclaimed ; 'it makes me so dizzy.'
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 209
■"'Put one hand over your eyes, mother, and take hold of me with the
other,' said the boy ; and so they began to move out sideways on the log, a half-
step at a time.
" 'Hold steady, mother ; we are nearly over.'
" 'Oh, I am gone !' was the only response, as she lost her balance and fell
into the river, but happily so near the farther bank that the little boy was able
to catch a bush with one hand that hung over the bank, while holding on to
his mother with the other, and so she was saved.
"It was then nearly dark, and without any knowledge of how far it was
to camp, the little party started on the road, only tarrying long enough on the
bank of the river for the mother to wring the water out of her skirts, the boy
■carrying the baby while the four-year-old walked beside his mother. After
nearly two miles of travel and ascending a very steep hill, it being now dark,
the glimmer of camp lights came in view; but the mother could see nothing,
for she fell senseless, utterly prostrated.
"I have been up and down that hill a number of times, and do not wonder
"the poor woman fell senseless after the effort to reach the top. The great
vi^onder is that she should have been able to go as far as she did. The incident
illustrates how the will power can nerve one up to extraordinary achievements,
hut when the object is attained and the danger is past, then the power is
measurably lost, as in this case, when the good woman came to know they were
safe. The boy hurried his two little brothers into camp, calling for help to
rescue his mother. The appeal was promptly responded to, the woman being
■carried into camp and tenderly cared for until she revived.
"Being asked if he did not want something to eat, the boy said 'he had
forgot all about it,' and further, 'he didn't see anything to eat, anyway;' where-
upon someone with a stick began to uncover some roasted potatoes, which
he has decided was the best meal he had ever eaten, even to this day.
"This is a plain recital of actual occurrences, without exaggeration, obtained
from the parties themselves and corroborated by numerous living witnesses."
Aside from the interest which gathers around the immigration of 1853
itself, there are two other special associations which make the year memorable.
One of these is indicated by the words upon the Wenas monument, that is,
"McClellan's Headquarters."
In 1853 George B. McClellan, subsequently Commander-in-Chief of the
Army of the Potomac, was in charge of an engineering party seeking a railroad
route through the Cascades. Governor I. I. Stevens, the first Governor of
Washington Territory, had formed the far-seeing conception of a great
■northern railroad. With tremendous energy he entered upon the exploration of
such ? route. It is interesting to note that the route of the present Northern
Pacific Railroad follows nearly the course which Governor Stevens outlined
at that time. McClellan was in command of one of the parties under Stevens.
In view of their subsequent relations, McClellan the commander and Stevens
the subordinate, it is interesting to recall that at various places Stevens rebukes
McClellan for lack of bold enterprise in carrying on the survey. In the Civil
War, it will be recalled, McClellan failed as commander against Lee, through
210 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
excess of caution, while Stievens died as a hero, perhaps as the result of an
excess of boldness, upon the bloody field of Chantilly.
The other connection with 1853 in Yakima is found in that incomparable
book, "Canoe and Saddle," by Theodore Winthrop. Winthrop made a journey
alone except for Indians, some of whom were eager to help him "shuffle ofif this
mortal coil," from Port Townsend to The Dalles via the "Nachchese" (as he
spells it), "Atinam" (as he spells that), and the "Klickatat" (as he spells that),
to The Dalles. This is altogether the most brilliant book written by any traveler
through Old Oregon, and is in the same class in literature with Irving's eloquent
descriptions of scenes which he did not see.
WINTHROP'S DESCRIPTIONS OF SCENERY AND OF ADVENTURES.
A chapter from "Canoe and Saddle," describing some scenery of very-
high order, and also some adventures which came near to being of very low
order, may interest our readers just at this stage of the story.
"People, cloddish, stagnant, and mundane, such as most of us are, pretend
to prefer sunset to sunrise, just as we fancy the past greater than the present,,
and repose nobler than action. Few are radical enough in thought to per-
ceive the great equalities of beauty and goodness in phenomena of nature or
conditions of life. Now, I saw a sunrise after my night by the Nachchese^
which, on the side of sunrise, it is my duty to mention.
"Having, therefore, put in my fact, that on a morning of August, in the
latter half of the Nineteenth Century, sunrise did its duty with splendor, I have
also done my duty as an observer. The simple statement of a fact is enough
for the imaginative, who will reproduce it for themselves, according to their
experience ; the docile unimaginative will buy alarm-clocks and study dawns.
Yet I give a few coarse details as a work of supererogation.
"If I had slept but faintly, the cobble-stones had purveyed me a substitute
for sleep by hammering me senseless; so that when the chill before dawn smote
me, and I became conscious, I felt that I needed consolation. Consolation
came. I saw over against me, across the river, a hill, blue as hope, and seem-
ingly far away in the gray distance. Light flushed upward from the horizon,,
meeting no obstacles of cloud, to be kindled and burnt away into white ashi-
ness. Light came up the valley over the dark, surging hills. Full in the teeth
of the gale it came, strong in its delicacy, surely victorious, as a fine scimitar
against a blundering bludgeon. Where light and wind met on the crest of an
earth billow, there the hill opposite was drawing nearer, and all the deep
scintillating purple, rich as the gold powdered robe of an Eastern queen. As
daylight grew older, it was strong enough to paint detail without sacrificing-
efifect; the hill took its place of neighborhood, upright and bold, a precipitous
front of warm, brown basalt, with long cavities, freshly cleft, where prisms
had fallen, striping the brown with yellow. First upon the summit of this cliflf
the sunbeams alighted. Thence they pounced upon the river, and were whirled
along upon its breakers, carrying light down to flood the valley. In the vigorous
atmosphere of so brilliant a daybreak I divined none of the difficulties that
were before sunset to befall me.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 211
"By this we were in the saddle, following the sunlight rush of the stream.
Stiffish. after passing the night hobbled, were the steeds, as bruised after boulder
beds were the cavaliers. But Loolowcan, the unimpassioned, was now aroused.
Here was the range of his nomad life. Anywhere hereabouts he might have
had his first practice lessons in horse stealing. His foot was on his native
bunch-grass. Those ridges far away to the northeast must be passed to reach
Weenas. Beyond those heights, to the far south, is Atinam, and 'Le Play
House,' the mission. Thus far time and place have made good the description
of the eloquent Owhhigh.
"Presently, in a small plain appeared a horse, hobbled and lone as a loon on
a lake. Have we acquired another masterless estray? Not so. Loolowcan
uttered a peculiar trilobated yelp, and forth from an ambush, where he had
dodged, crept the shabbiest man in the world. Shabby are old-clo' men in the
slums of Brummagem; shabbier yet are Mormons at the tail of an emigration.
But among the seediest ragamuffins in the most unsavory corners I have known,
I find no object that can compare with this root-digging Klickatat, as at Loo-
lowcan's signal-yelp he crept from his lair among the willows. His attire merits
attention as the worst in the world.
"The moccasins of Shabbiest had been long ago another's, probably many
another Klickatat's. Many a coyote had appropriated them after they were
thrown away as defunct, and, after gnawing them in selfish solitude, every
coyote had turned away unsatisfied with their flavor. Then Shabbiest stepped
forward, and claimed the treasure trove. He must have had a decayed
ingenuity ; otherwise how with thongs, with willow twigs, with wisps of grass
and persistent gripe of toe, did he compel those tattered footpads to remain
among his adherents?
"Breeches none had Shabbiest ; leggins none ; shirt equally none to speak of.
But a coat he had, and one of many colors. Days before, on the water of Whulge,
I had seen a sad coat on the back of that rusty and fuddled chieftain, the Duke
of York. Nature gently tempers our experience to us as we are able to bear.
The Duke's coat was my most deplorable vision in coats until its epoch, but it
had educated me to lower possibilities. Ages ago, when this coat was a new
and lively snuf¥-co!or, Garrick was on the stage. Goldsmith was buying his
ridiculous peach-blossom, in shape like this, if this were ever shapely. In
the odors that exhaled from it there seemed an under stratum of London coffee-
houses. Who knows but He of Bolt Court, slovenly He of the Dictionary,
may not have been guilty of its primal grease spot? And then how that habili-
ment became of a duller snuiT-color; how grease-spots oozed each into its
inheritors, after familiarizing it with the gutter, pawned it one foggy November
day, when London was swallowing cold pea-soup instead of atmosphere ; how,
the pawner never coming to redeem, the pawnee sold it to an American prisoner
of the Revolution, to carry home with him to Boston, his native village ; how a
degraded scion of the family became the cook of Mr. Astor's ill-fated ship, the
Tonquin, and swopped it with a Chinook chief for four otterskins; and how
from shabby Chinook to shabbier it had passed, until Shabbiest got it at last ;
all these adventures, every eventful scene in this historic drama, was written
in multiform inscription all over this time-stained ruin, so that an expert
212 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
observer might read the tale as a geologist reads eras of the globe in a slab of
fossiliferous limestone.
"Such was the attire of Shabbiest, and as such he began a powwow with
Loolowcan. The compatriots talked emphatically, with the dull impulsiveness,
the calm fury, of Indians. I saw that I, my motions, and my purposes, were
the subject of their discourse. Meanwhile I stood by, somewhat bored, and a
little curious.
"At last, he of the historical coat turned to me, and, raising his arms, one
sleeveless, one fringed with rags at the shoulder, delivered at me a harangue,
in the most jerky and broken Chinook. Given in broken English, correspond-
ing, its purport was as follows: —
"Shabbiest loquitur, in a naso-guttural choke : 'What you white man want
get 'em here ? Why him no stay Boston country ? Me stay my country ; no
ask you come here. Too much soldier man go all round everywhere. Too
much make pop-gun. Him say kill bird, kill bear — sometime him kill Indian.
Soldier man too much shut eye, open eye at squaw. Squaw no like; s'pose
squaw like, Indian man no like nohow. Me no understand white man. Plenty
good thing him country ; plenty blanket ; plenty gun ; plenty powder ; plenty
horse. Indian country plenty nothing. No good Weenas give you horse. No
good Loolowcan go Dalles. Bad Indian there. Smallpox there. Very much
all bad. Me no like white man nohow. S'pose go away, me like. Me think
all some pretty fine good. You big chief, got plenty thing. Indian poor, no
got nothing. Howdydo? Howdydo? Want swop coat? Want swop horse?
S'pose give Indian plenty thing much good. Much very big good great chief
white man!'
" 'Indignant sagamore,' replied I, in mollifying tones, 'you do indeed mis-
understand us blanketeers. We come hither as friends for peace. No war is
in our hearts, but kindly civilizing influences. If you resist, you must be civilized
out of the way. We should regret your removal from these prairies of Weenas,
for we do not see where in the world you can go and abide, since we occupy
the Pacific shore and barricade you from free drowning privileges. Succumb
gracefully, therefore, to your fate, my representative redskin. Do not scowl
when soldier men, searching for railroads, repose their seared and disappointed
eyeballs by winking at your squaws. Do not long for pitfalls when their cavalry
plod over your kamas swamps. Believe all same very much good. Howdydo?
Howdydo? No swop! I cannot do you the injustice of swopping this buck-
skin f.hirt of mine, embroidered with porcupine quills, for that distinguished
garment of yours. Nor horse can I sivop in fairness ; mine are weary from
travel, and accustomed for a few days to influences of mercy. But, as a memo-
rial of this pleasant interview and a testimonial to your eloquent speech, I
should be complimented if you would accept a couple of charges of powder.'
"And, suiting act to word, I poured him out powder, which he received
in a buckskin rag, and concealed in some shabby den of his historic coat. Shab-
biest seemed actually grateful. Two charges of powder were like two soup
tickets to a starving man, — two dinners inevitably, and possibly, according to
the size of his mark, many dinners, were in that black dust. He now asked
to see my six-shooter, which Loolowcan had pointed at during their vernacular
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 213
confidence. He examined it curiously, handling it with some apprehension,
as a bachelor does a baby.
" 'Wake nika kunitux ocook tenas musket. Pose mika maniook po, ikta
mika memloose ; — I no understand that little musket. Suppose you make shoot,
how many you kill?' he asked. '
" 'Hin, pose moxt tahtilum. Many, perhaps two tens,'I said, with mild
confidence.
"This was evidently impressive. 'Hyas tamanous ; big magic,' said both.
'Wake cultus ocook ; no trifler that 1'
"We parted, Shabbiest to his diggings, we to our trail. Hereupon Loolow-
can's tone changed more and more. His old terrors, real or pretended, awoke.
He feared The Dalles. It was a long journey, and I was in such headlong
haste. And how could he return from The Dalles, had we once arrived? Could
the son of Owhhigh foot it? Never! Never! Would I give him a horse?
"Obviously not at all would I give a horse to the new-fledged dignitary, 1
informed him, cooling my wrath at these bulbous indications of treachery, nur-
tured by the talk of Shabbiest, and ready to grow into a full-blown Judas-tree
if encouraged. At last, by way of incitement to greater diligence in procuring
fresh horses for me from the bands at Weenas, I promised to hire one for his
return journey. But Loolowcan the Mistrusted, watching me with disloyal
eyes from under his matted hair, became doubly doubted by me now.
"We turned northward, clomb a long, rough ridge, and viewed beyond, a
valley bare and broad. A strip of Cottonwood and shrubs in the middle
announced a river, Weenas. This was the expected locale; would the personnel
be as stationary? Rivers, as it pleases nature, may run away forever without
escaping. Camps of Nomad Klickaltats; are more evasive. The people o£
Owhhigh, driving the horses of Owhhigh, might have decamped. What, then,
Loolowcan, son of a horse-thief? Can your talents aid me in substituting a
fresher for Gubbins drooping for thy maltreatment?
"Far away down the valley, where I could see them only as one sees lost
Pleiads with telescopic vision, were a few white specks. Surely the tents of
Boston soldier tilicum, winkers at squaws and thorns in the side of Shabbiest, —
a refuge if need be there, thought I, Loolowcan turned away to the left, leading
me into the upper valley.
"We soon discovered the fact, whatever its future worth might be, that
horses were feeding below. Presently a couple of lodgers defined themselves
rustily against the thickets of Weenas. A hundred horses, roans, calicos, sorrels,
iron-grays, blacks and whites, were nipping bunch grass on the plain. My weary
trio, wearier this hot morning for the traverse of the burnt and shaggy ridge
above Weenas, were enlivened at sight of their^ fellows, and sped toward them
companionably. But the wild cavalcade, tossing disdainful heads and neighing
loudly, dashed off in a rattling stampede; then paused curiously till we came
near and then were off again, the lubberly huddling along far in the rear of
the front caracolers.
"We dismounted, and tethered our wayfarers each to a bush, where he
might feed, but not fly away to saddleless freedom with the wild prairie band.
We entered the nearer and larger of the two lodges.
214 . HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
"Worldlings, whether in palaces of Cosmopolis or lodges of the Siwashes,
do not burn incense before the absolute stranger. He must first establish his
claims to attention. No one came forth from the lodges to greet us. No one
showed any sign of curiosity or welcome as we entered. Squalid were these
huts of squalid tenancy. Architecture does not prevail as yet on the American
continent, and perhaps less among the older races of the western regions than
among the newer comers Bostonward. These habitations were structures of
roughly split boards, leaning upon a ridge-pole.
"FiVe foul copper heads and bodies of men lurked among the plunder of
that noisome spot. Several squaws were searching for gray hairs in the heads
of several children. One infant, evidently malcontent, was being fiat headed.
This fashionable martyr was papoosed in a tight swathing wicker-work case.
A broad pad of buckskin compressed its facile skull and brain beneath. If
there is any reason why the Northwest Indians should adopt the configuration
of idiots, none such is known to me. A roundhead Klickatat woman would be
a pariah. The ruder sex are not quite so elaborately beautified, or possibly
their brains assert themselves more actively in later life against the distortion
of childhood. The Weenas papoose, victim of aboriginal ideas in the plastic
art, was hung up in a corner of the lodge, and but for the blinking of its beady
black eyes, almost crowded out of its head by the tight pad, and now and then
a feeble howl of distress, I should have thought it a laughable image, the pet
fetish of these shabby devotees. Sundry mats, blankets, skins 'and dirty miscel-
lanies furnished this populous abode.
"Loolowcan was evidently at home among these compatriots, frowzier even
than he. He squatted among them, sans gene, and lighted his pipe/ One of the
ladies did the honors, and motioned me to a seat upon a rusty bear skin. It
instantly began biting me virulently through my corduroys ; whereat I exchanged
it for a mat, soon equally carnivorous. Odors very villainous had made their
settlement in this congenial spot. An equine fragrance such as no essence could
have overcome, pervaded the masculine group. From the gynaeceum came a
perfume, hard to decipher, until I bethought me how Governor Ogden, at Fort
Vancouver of the Hudson's Bay Company, with a cruelly waggish wink to me,
had persuaded the commissary of the railroad party to buy twelve dozen quarts
of Macassar, as presents for the Indians.
" 'Fair and softly' is the motto of a Siwash negotiation. Why should they,
in their monotonous lives, sacrifice a new sensation by hurry?
"The five copper-skins first eyed me over with lazy thoroughness. They
noted my arms and equipment. When they had thus taken my measure by the
eye, they appealed to my guide for historical facts ; they would know my
whence, my whither, my wherefore, and his share in my past and my future.
"Loolowcan droned a sluggish tale, to whose points of interest they grunted
applause between pufifs of smoke. Then there was silence and a tendency
toward slumber declared itself among them ; their minds needed repose after
so unusual a feast of ideas. Here I protested. I expressed my emphatic sur-
prise to Loolowcan, that he was not urgent in fulfilling the injunctions of my
friend the mighty Owhhigh, and his own agreement to procure horses, the
quadrupeds were idle, and I was good pay. A profitable bargain was possible.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 215
"The spokesman of the party, and apparently owner of the lodge and
horses, was an olyman Siwash, an old savage, totally unwashed from boyhood
up, and dressed in dirty buckskin. Loolowcan, in response to my injunctions
appealed to him. Olyman declined expediting me. He would not lend, nor
swop, nor sell horses. There was no mode for the imparting of horses, tem-
porarily or permanently, that pleased him. His sentiments on the subject of
Boston visitors were like those of Shabbiest. All my persuasions he qualified
as 'Cultus wah wah ; idle talk." Not very polite are thy phrases, Olyman, head-
man of Stenchville on Weenas. At the same time he and the four in chorus
proposed to Loolowcan to abandon me. Olyman alone talked Chinook jargon ;
the other four sat, involved in their dirty cotton shirts, waiting for interpreta-
tion, and purred assent or dissent, — yea, to all the insolence of Olyman ; nay, to
every suggestion of mine. Toward me and my plans the meeting was evidently
sulky and inclement.
"Loolowcan, however, did not yet desert his colors. He made the supple-
mentary proposition that Olyman should hire us a sumpter horse, on which he,
the luxurious Loolowcan, disdainer of pedestrians, might prance back from
the far-away Dalles. I was very willing on any conditions to add another
quadruped to my trio. They all flagged after the yesterday's work, and Gubbins
seemed ready to fail.
"While this new question was pending, a lady came to my aid. The prettiest
and wisest of the squaws paused in her researches, and came forward to join
the council. This beauty of the Klickatats thought hiring the horse an admirable
scheme. 'Loolowcan,' said she, 'can take the consideration-money and buy me
"ikta," what not, at The Dalles.' This suggestion of the Light of the Harem
touched Olyman. He rose, and commanded the assistance of the shirt-clad
quartette. They loungingly surrounded the band of horses, and with whoops
and throwing of stones drove them into a corral, near the lodges. Olyman then
produced a hide lasso, and tossed its loop over the head of a roan, the stereo-
scopic counterpart of Gubbins.
"Meantime Loolowcan had driven up my horses. I ordered him to tie
Antipodes and Gubbins together by the head with my long hide lariat. The
manner of all the Indians was so intolerably insolent, that I still expected
trouble. My cavalry, I resolved, should be well in hand. I flung the bight of
the lariat with a double turn over the horn of my saddle and held Klale, my
quiet friend, by his bridle. My three horses were thus under complete control.
"The roan was brought forward. But again an evil genius among the
Indians interfered, and growled a few poisonous words into the ear of Olyman.
Olyman doubled his demand for his horse. I refused to be imposed upon with
an incautious expression of opinion on the subject. The Indians talked with
ferocious animation for a moment, and then retired to the lodge. The women
and children who had been spectators immediately in a body marched off, and
disappeared in the thickets. Ladies do not leave the field when amicable enter-
tainment is on the cards.
"But why should I tarry after negotiation had failed? I ordered Loolow-
can to mount and lead the way. He said nothing, but stood looking at me, as
216 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
if I were another and not myself, his recent friend and comrade. There was-
a new cast of expression in his dusky eyes.
"At this moment the Indians came forth from the lodge. They came along
in a careless, lounging way, but every ragamuffin was armed. Three had long,
single-barrel guns of the Indian pattern. One bore a bow and arrows. The
fifth carried a knife, half-concealed, and, as he came near, slipped another
furtively into the hand of Loolowcan.
"What next? A fight? Or a second shamfight, like that of Whulge?
"I stood with my back to a bush, with my gun leaning against my left arm,
where my bridle hung; my bowie-knife was within convenient reach, and I
amused myself during these instants of expectancy by abstractly turning over
the cylinder of my revolver. 'Another adventure,' I thought, 'where this com-
pact machine will be available to prevent or punish.'
"Loolowcan now stepped forward, and made me a brief, neat speech, full
of facts. Meanwhile, those five copper-heads watched me, as I have seen a
coterie of wolves, squatted just out of reach, watch a wounded buffalo, who-
made front to them. There was not a word in Loolowcan's speech about the
Great Spirit, or his Great Father, or the ancient wrong of the red man, or the
hunting-grounds of the blest, or fire-water, or the pipe of peace. Nor was the
manner of his oration lofty, proud, and chieftainly, as might befit the son of
Owhhigh. Loolowcan spoke like an insolent varlet, ready to be worse thaa
insolent, and this was the burden of his lay.
" 'Wake nika klatawah copa Dalles ; I won't go to Dalles. Nike mitlit^-
Weenas ; I stay Weenas. Alta mika payee nika chickamin pe ikta ; now you pay
me my money and things.'
"This was the result then, — my plan shot dead, my confidence betrayed.
This frowzy liar asking me payment for his treachery, and backing his demand
with knives and gims!
"Wrath mastered me. Prudence fled.
"I made my brief rejoinder speech, thrusting into it all the billingsgate I
knew. My philippic ran thus : 'Kamooks, mika klimminwhet ; dog, you have
lied. Cultus Siwash, wake Owhhigh tenas ; paltry savage, no son of Owhhigh !
Kallapooya ; a Kallapooya Indian, a groveller. Skudzilai moot ; a nasty var-
mint. Tenas mika turn tum; cowardly is thy heart. Quash klatawah copa
Dalles ; afraid to go to Dalles. Nika mamook paper copa squally tyee pe spose-
mika chaco yaquah yaka skookoom mamook stick; I shall write a paper to the
master of Nisqually (if I ever get out of this), and suppose you go there, he
will lustily apply the rod.'
"Loolowcan winced at portions of this discourse. He seemed ready to-
pounce upon me with the knife he grasped.
"And now as to pay, 'Hyas pultin mika; a great fool art thou, to suppose
that I can be bullied into paying thee for bringing me out of my way to desert
me. No go, no pay.'
" 'Wake nika memloose ; I no die for the lack of it,' said Loolowcan, witb
an air of unapproachable insolence.
"Having uttered my farewell, I waited to see what these filthy braves
would do, after their scowling looks and threatening gestures. If battle comes,.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 2\T
thou, O Loolowcan, wilt surely go to some hunting-grounds in the other world,,
whether blest or curst. Thou at least never shalt ride Gubbins as master;,
never wallop Antipodes as brutal master; nor in murderous revelry devour the
relics of my pork, my hardtack, and my tongues. It will be hard if I, with.
eight shots and a slasher, cannot make sure of them to dance before me, as
guide, down the defiles of purgatory.
"There was an awkward pause. All the apropos remarks had been made
The spokesmen of civilization and barbarism had each had their say. Action
rather halted. No one was willing to take the initiative. Whether the Stench-
willians proposed to attack or not, they certainly would not do it while I was
so thoroughly on my guard. Colonel Colt, quiet as he looked, represented to-
them an indefinite slaughter power.
"I must myself make the move. I threw Klale's bridle over his neck, and,,
grasping the horn, swung myself into the saddle, as well as I could with gun in
one hand and pistol in the other.
"The Klickatats closed in. One laid hold of Antipodes. The vicious-
looking Mephistopheles with the knife leaped to Klale's head and made a clutch
at the rein. But Colonel Colt, with Cyclopean eyeball, was looking him full in
the face. He dropped the bridle, and fell back a step. I dug both spurs into
Klale with a yell. Antipodes whirled and lashed at his assailant with dangerous
hoofs. Gubbins started. Klale reared and bolted forward.
"We had scattered the attacking party, and were off."
So much for Winthrop and the first movements through Yakima.
THE PROVISIONAL GOVERNMENT.
There was one great event in connection with the era of the Immigrants
which may fittingly be stated here. For it, together with the incoming of mis-
sionaries and American home-builders, may be said to have determined the
destiny of the country. This event was the establishment of the Provisional
Government of Oregon in 1843. This event of capital importance occurred indeed-
before the all-important immigration of that year reached Oregon. But it was
the natural sequence of the sparodic earlier incomings of Americans, and it
may correctly be estimated as part of the same chain of events of which the
immigration of 1843 was most decisive.
The coming of population, even though in driblets, had created enough of
a group of people to demand some sort of a government.
W. H. Gray made a summary of population in 1840 to consist of two
hundred persons, of whom a hundred and thirty-seven were American and
sixty-three Canadian. Up to 1839 the only law was the rules of the Hudson's
Bay Company. In that year the Methodist missionaries suggested that two
persons be named as magistrates to administer justice according to the ordinary
rules of American law. This was the first move looking to American political
organization. In 1830 and 1840 memorials were presented to the Senate by
Senator Linn, of Missouri, at the request of American settlers, praying for
the attention of Congress to their needs. But, not content with lifting their
voices to the home land, they proceeded to organize for themselves.
218 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
At that time, Champoeg, a few miles above the falls of the Willamette,
and located pleasantly on the east bank of that river, was the chief settlement.
There, on the 7th of February, 1841, a gathering of the settlers was held "for
the purpose of consulting upon steps necessary to be taken for the formation
of laws, and the election of officers to execute them." Jason Lee, the Methodist
missionary, was chairman of the meeting, and he outhned what he deemed the
needed method of establishing a reign of law and order. The meeting proved
rather a conference than an organization and the people dispersed, to meet again
at the call of the chairman.
A week later an event occurred which brought most forcibly to the minds
of the settlers the need of better organization. This was the death of Ewing
Young, one of the most prominent men of the little community. He left con-
siderable property, with no known heirs and no one to act as administrator. It
became clear that some legal status must be established for the settlement.
Another meeting was held, in which it was determined that a government be
instituted, having the officers usual in an American locality. The work of
framing a constitution was entrusted to a committee, in which the five different
elements, the Methodist missionaries, the Catholics, the French-Canadians, the
independent American settlers, and the English, had representation. The com-
mittee was instructed to confer with Commodore Wilkes of the American Ex-
ploring Squadron, just at that time in the River, and Doctor McLoughlin, the
Hudson's Bay magnate. Wilkes advised the settlers to wait for added strength
and for the United States government to throw its mantle over them. The
committee decided that his advice was sound and indefinitely adjourned. Con-
stitution building rested for a time along the shores of the Willamette.
In 1841 and 1842, two hundred and twenty Americans reached Oregon,
doubling the population.
The Americans were ill at ease without a government, and kept agitating
the question of another meeting. But the English and the Catholic influences
opposed this. Some diplomacy was needed. The irrepressible Yankees were
equal to it. They determined to draw the settlers together under the announce-
ment of a meeting for the purpose of discussing the means of protecting them-
selves against the ravages of the numerous wild beasts of the valley. W. H.
Gray was the leading spirit in this enterprise. In a most picturesque and valuable
account of it, John Minto has developed the thought that the founding of the
Oregon State bore a striking resemblance to that stage in the Roman State,
subsequently celebrated in the festival of Lupercalia, wherein the first organiza-
tion was for defense against the wild beasts. So the Willamette witnessed
again the gathering of the clans.
Americans, English, French, half-breeds. Catholics, Protestants, Independ-
ents, all coming together to protect themselves against the bears, cougars and
wolves. The meetings were usually known thereafter as the "wolf meetings."
James O'Neil was made chairman of this historic gathering. With the
astuteness characteristic of American politicians, a previous understanding had
been made between Mr. O'Neil and the little coterie of which Mr. Gray was
the manager, that everything should be shaped to the ultimate end of raising
the question of a government. As soon, therefore, as the ostensible aim of the
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 219
meeting had been attained, W. H. Gray arose and broached the all-important
issue. After declaring that no one could question the wisdom and rightfulness
of the measures looking to protecting their herds from wild beasts, he con-
tinued :
How is it, fellow citizens, with you and me, and our wives and children?
Have we any organization on which we can rely for mutual protection? Is
there any power in the country suiificient to protect us and all that we hold dear,
from the worse than wild beasts that threaten and occasionally destroy our
cattle? We have mutually and unitedly agreed to defend and protect our cattle
and domestic animals ; now, therefore, fellow citizens, I submit and move the
adoption of the two following resolutions, that we may have protection for our
lives and persons, as well as our cattle and herds: Resolved, That a committee
be appointed to take into consideration the propriety of taking measures for the
civil and military protection of this colony ; Resolved, That this committee con-
sist of twelve persons.
There spoke the true voice of the American statebuilder, the voice of the
Declaration of Independence and the Constitution. The resolutions were passed
and the committee of twelve appointed, mainly American. The committee met
at the falls of the Willamette, which by that time was becoming known as
Oregon City. Unable to arrive at a definite decision, the committee issued a
call for a general meeting at Champoeg on May 2d.
Pending the meeting, there was a general policy of opposition developed
among the French-Canadians in the interest of the Hudson's Bay Company and
England. This opposition threatened the overthrow of the entire plan. It was,
however, checkmated in an interesting fashion. George W. Le Breton was one
of the leading settlers and occupied a peculiar position. He was of French
origin, from Baltimore to Oregon, and had been a Catholic. His existing affilia-
tions were with the Americans. He was keen, facile, and well educated. He
discovered that the Canadians had been drilled to vote "No" on all questions,
irrespective of the bearing which such a vote might have on the leading issue.
Le Breton accordingly proposed that measures be introduced upon which the
Canadians ought to vote "Yes." These tactics were carried out. The Canadians
were confused thereby. Le Breton watched developments carefully and, becom-
ing satisfied that he could command a majority, rose and exclaimed, "I second
the motion !" Jo Meek, famous as one of the Mountain Men, stepped out of
the crowd and said, "Who is for a divide? All in favor of an organization,
follow me!" The Americans speedily gathered behind the tall form of the
erstwhile trapper. A count followed. It was a close vote. Fifty-two voted
for and fifty against. The Americans would have been outvoted had it not
been that Le Breton, with two French-Canadians, Francois Matthieu and
Etienne Lucier, voted with them. The defeated Canadians withdrew, and the
Indians, who lined the banks of the River to discover what strange proceedings
the white men were engaged in, perceived from the loud shouts of triumph
that the "Bostons" had won. Though the victory was gained by so scanty a
margin, it was gained, and it was decisive. It was one of the most interesting
events in the history of Oregon or the United States, for it illustrated most
vividly the inborn capacity of the American for self-government.
220 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
The new government went at once into effect. The constitution formu-
lated by the committee and adopted by the meeting at Champoeg provided that
the people of Oregon should adopt laws and regulations until the United States,
extended its jurisdiction over them. Freedom of worship, habeas corpus, trial
by jury, proportionate representation, and the usual civil rights of Americans
were guaranteed. Education should be encouraged, lands and property should
not be taken from Indians without their consent. Slavery or involuntary servi-
tude should not exist.
The officers of government consisted of a legislative body of nine persons,,
an executive body of three, and a judiciary of a supreme judge and two justices
of the peace, with a probate court and its justices, and a recorder and treasurer.
Every white man of twenty-one years or more could vote. The laws of Iowa
were designated to be followed in common practice. Marriage was allowed to
males at sixteen and females at fourteen. One of the most important provisions
was the land law. This permitted any individual to claim a mile square, pro-
vided it be not on a town site or water power, and that any mission claims
already made be not aft'ected, up to the limit of six miles square. This law
was framed upon the general conception of the proposed Linn bill already
brought before Congress. The land law allowed land to be taken in any form,,
but since there was no existing survey, each man had to make his own survey.
The first elected executive committee consisted of David Hill, Alanson
Beers, and Joseph Gale. Within a year an amendment was made to the consti-
tution providing for a governor. George Abernethy, a former member of the
Methodist Mission, was chosen to fill the place.
Outer things were pretty crude in the little colony on the Willamette,,
though brains and energy were there in abundance. J. Quinn Thornton ex-
pressed himself as follows on the "Oregon State House," which he says was in
several respects different from that in which laws are made at Washington City:.
"The Oregon State House was built with posts set upright, one end set in
the ground, grooved on two sides, and filled in with poles and split timber, such-
as would be suitable for fence rails, with plates and poles across the top. Raft-
ers and horizontal poles, instead of iron ribs, held the cedar bark which was
used instead of thick copper for roofing. It was twenty by forty feet and there-
fore did'not cover three acres and a half. At one end some puncheons were put
up for a platform for the President; some poles and slabs were placed around'
for seats; three planks, about a foot wide and twelve feet long, placed upon a
sort of stake platform for a table, were all that was believed necessary for the
use of the legislative committee and the clerks."
There are several facts in connection with the inauguration of this Pro-
visional Government of Oregon which are almost equal to itself in interest.
One of these is that Peter H. Burnett, a lawyer and the most notable member
of the emigration of 1843, rendered the opinion that, by the spirit of American
institutions, the Provisional Gov.ernment might be regarded as possessing valid'
authority. Going in a few years to California, Mr. Burnett incorporated the^
same principles into the government of that state and became its first governor.
Another most significant fact was the attitude of the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany. That great organization was of course opposed to American ownership*
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 221
•and to the Provisional Government. At first, the management under Sir James
Douglas (Dr. McLoughlin had been superseded by Douglas because of his sup-
posed leaning toward the Americans) affected to ignore the government framed
■at Champoeg, declaring loftily that the company could protect itself. Doctor
McLoughlin, in his very interesting account of this, says that the Americans
adopted in 1845 a provision in the constitution that no one should be called to
do any act contrary to his allegiance. This provision struck him as designed
to enable British subjects to join the organization. Doctor McLoughlin was
so pleased with the wise and liberal spirit which this evinced that he prevailed
on Douglas to join the Provisional Government. The family was now complete.
The American farmers and immigrants and missionaries had triumphed over
the autocratic government of the great fur company. The American idea — gov-
ernment of the people, by the people, and for the people — was vindicated. The
local battle was won for the Yankee.
Before leaving this great epoch of the history of Oregon, it will interest
the reader to know that Doctor McLoughlin, so conspicuous in the story thus
far, removed to Oregon City, and became an avowed American citizen, living
on the claim on which he filed at the Falls. Much trouble subsequently arose
between him and the Methodist Mission people represented by Rev. A. F.
Waller. Harder yet, Congress was led by Delegate Thurston of Oregon, to
exclude him from the benefit of the Donation Land Law. The final result was
that the great-hearted ex-king of the Columbia lost the most of his claim on the
ground that he was an alien at the time of taking it. The Hudson's Bay Com-
pany directors chose to disapprove his acts in bestowing provisions upon the
weary and hungry and ragged American immigrants, and they charged him
personally with the cost. This, in addition to the loss of his claim, rendered
him almost penniless and sadly embittered his old age. He said that he sup-
posed he was becoming an American, but found that he was neither American
nor British, but was without a country. It is pleasant to be able to record
the fact that the Oregon Legislature restored his land in so far as the state
•controlled it, but this was only just before his death.
CHAPTER VIII
PERIOD OF INDIAN WARS
MEEKER-STEVENS CONTROVERSY — WAR CHIEFS OF THE INDIANS — THE CAYUSE
WAR "lawyer" DIAGRAM OF RESERVATION AND ORDER OF WITHDRAWAL
OUTBREAK OF WAR BOLON MURDER BATTLES IN YAKIMA — DISCORD BETWEEN
VOLUNTEERS AND REGULARS WALLA WALLA CAMPAIGN ^VICTORY OF THE
VOLUNTEERS — AFTERMATH OF THE WARS THE DEATH OF LESCHI — A NEW
ORDER OF THINGS STEPTOE's DEFEAT — END OF THE WAR — NEZ PERCE WAR
IN THE WALLOWA, IN 1877 THE PERKINS MURDER STORY OF EARLY DAYS I
CHIEF MOSES SHOWN IN HIS TRUE LIGHT TREATY WITH THE YAKIMAS,
1855.
The coming of "superior races" among barbarous ones, — which in case of
Oregon, meant mainly the British and Americans — has been followed by the
inevitable tragedy of war. Neither of the two parties has been able to com-
prehend the view point of the other. To most whites, eager to seize and de-
velop land, and impatient of the blind and childish incapacity of the natives to
understand the nature of civilization, those natives seem but obstructions to be
gotten rid of like any other "varmints." To the native, accustomed to bound-
less areas of pasture land and game runs and fishing streams and seasonal mi-
grations, the whites, at first a subject for wonder and superstitious fear and
almost worship, became later a pestilence and an all-absorbing flood of tyranny
and rapacity, whose main aims were to seize the Indian's land, grasp his be-
loved game and fish preserves, outrage his women, and kill his men. The most
tragic part of our "Century of Dishonor," as Helen Hunt Jackson has it, has
been the fact that the real criminals on both sides were not usually the ones
that suffered due punishment from the avenging hands of the other. Some
lawless bunch of white desperadoes would rob some Indians or run of? with
their women, and then the outraged Indians would go on the warpath and with
blind fury waylay some innocent train of immigrants or fire a lonely cabin and
scalp the helpless women and children of some frontier settler. In turn a new
band of white men, this time probably the best of the genuine American settlers,
would rouse themselves to defend their families and bring swift retribution
upon 'he midnight marauders — and so they in turn would raid an Indian village
and shoot down a bunch of men, women, and children, who had no part in the
former atrocities and not the slightest conception of what it was all about. And
so the blind and sorrowful history of "Indian troubles" has see-sawed back and
forth, the criminals on both sides starting the ball rolling in order to gratify
their lust for land or plunder or women, and the innocent victims on both sides
paying the penalty. But what can we do about it? Philosophy breaks down
222
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 223
in trying to solve the problem on ethical grounds. Obviously this splendid land
with its limitless resources could not have been left wild simply to accommodate
a few thousand Cayuse ponies and maintain hunting grounds for a few thousand
primitive natives. It is easy to say that if men were rational and patient and
philanthropic, all could have been peaceably adjusted. Undoubtedly. But that
is just what most men, even of the American nation, are not. They are not
rational, nor patient, nor philanthropic. And so there you are! Without un-
dertaking to express a judgment on a subject of which many greater philos-
ophers than the writer have failed to find any satisfactory solution, we may
venture one suggestion. It is this: — It is a just assertion that in the conflicts
that have tormented humanity, the higher contestant should be held to the
larger responsibility, the severer judgment. That is just the opposite of what
is generally done. But we submit it as an essential basis of ethics (if there are
any ethics in this poor, blood-soaked and outraged world of the year 1918 of
the so-called Christian era) that the civilized man should be held to a higher
responsibility than-the savage. Generally speaking, in case of trouble between
capitalist and laborer, the former is to blame. As between teacher and pupil,
the teacher is usually to blame. As between parent and child the parent is usu-
ally to blame. As between educated and ignorant, the former must be held gen-
erally responsible. In countries so much in the dark ages as to have kings and
lords, it may be said that the kings and lords are always to blame for popular
troubles.
MEEKER-STEVENS CONTROVERSY
A good deal of the literature of crimination and recrimination about
Indians in this state or territory has raged around its first governor, Isaac I.
Stevens. Gen. Hazard Stevens, known and honored by many in Yakima and
other parts of this region, whose brave and useful life ended while these pages
were in preparation, has given in the life of his father, a masterly sum-
mary of the policies and achievements of that initial administration. Ezra
Meeker, known also and respected all over the Northwest as one of the great
pioneers, has presented in "The Tragedy of Leschi," his reasons for severe
criticism of the Indian policies of Governor Stevens. The great majority of
pioneers in discussing this controversy support the governor and condemn
Meeker's criticisms as unjust and some even say malicious. Without under-
taking to express any opinion on this vexed question it may be said here that
the honored first governor of Washington Territory, — with his great ability, his
tremendous energy, his far-reaching vision as to the future of this region, and
his devoted patriotism, which he sealed with his blood on the field of
Chantilly, — was a typical white man in the sense of which we have spoken.
That is, he, like practically all the white men in the Northwest at that time,
did not get the point of view of the Indians. He and they contemplated this
country solely from the standpoint of their own race and civilization and took
into account little or none the problem of any permanent development of the
Indians. The two views of Governor Stevens and his Indian policies, when
divested of prejudice and acrimony, may be found to coexist in a measure.
For there can be no question as to his large and beneficent aims, his lofty ambi-
tions, and his unflagging zeal in the development of the country. It is doubt-
224 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
.less equally true that he was oblivious to the inner workings and sentiments
of the Indians, and thought of them as merely incidental to the great task of
making a new commonwealth of what he saw truly was one of the most richly
endowed of all the new lands of America.
WAR CHIEFS OF THE INDIANS
The story of the early Indian wars of the Inland Empire is divisible into
.three stages : First, the Cayuse War following the Whitman Massacre ; second,
the Yakima and Walla Walla War of 1855-56; third, the Yakima and Spokane
War of 1858-59. These in a way constituted one war. Moreover, while the
two latter were in progress, there were Indian wars in southern Oregon and on
Puget Sound. It would perhaps be an accurate summary to say that the twelve
years, 1847 to 1859, composed the great period of Indian wars in the Northwest.
As we shall see, there were two very considerable later wars, the Nez Perce
War of 1877 and the Bannock War of 1878. The Yakima Indians took a lead-
ing role in the War of 1855-56, and were connected with the others to a greater
■or less degree. Among many famous leaders of the natives several may be
•considered as their most conspicuous — Kamiakin, Owhi, and Leschi, the
Yakimas, though Leschi's field was mainly on the Sound, — Peupeumoxmox, a
Walla Walla, Looking Glass and HalhaUlossot (Lawyer), the Nez Perces, and
■iin the wars of the seventies, Hallakallakeen or Joseph of the Nez Perces, and
Sulktalthscosum, or Moses, of the Kowahchins. There were many other Indian
■chiefs worthy of mention, some admired, others hated by the whites, but these
■eight may perhaps be justly considered as nearest fulfilling the ideal of the
•typical Indian chief both for good and evil.
It is fitting that some space be given here to each of these wars with a view
• of the results of each. First we speak of
THE CAYUSE WAR
The Whitman Massacre was a prelude to the Cayuse War. It should be
-remembered that, the year before the massacre, the Oregon country had, by
treaty with Great Britain, become the property of the United States. No reg-
ular government had yet been inaugurated, but the Provisional Government
already instituted by the Americans met on December 9th and provided for
sending fourteen companies of volunteers to the Walla Walla. These were im-
:migrants who had come to seek homes and their section of land, and it was a
great sacrifice for them to leave their families and start in mid- Winter for the
upper Columbia. But they bravely and cheerfully obeyed the call of duty and
set forth, furnishing mainly their own equipment, without a thought of pecu-
niary gain or even reimbursement. Cornelius Gilliam, an immigrant of 1845
from Missouri, was chosen colonel of the regiment. He was a man of great
energy and courage, and though not a professional soldier (none of them were)
had the frontier American's capacity for warfare. The command pushed
rapidly forward, their way being disputed at various points. At Sand Hollows
the Indians, led by Five Crows and War Eagle, made an especially tenacious
;attempt to prevent the crossing of the Umatilla River. Five Crows claimed to
- ( II \rij:s M \\\
KEBEL CHIEFS OF THE YAKIMA.^
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 225
have wizard powers by which he could stop all bullets, and War Eagle declared
that he could swallow all balls fired at him. But at the first onset the wizard
was so badly wounded that he had to retire and "Swallow Ball" was killed.
Tom McKay had leveled his rifle and said, "Let him swallow this."
The way was now clear to Waiilatpu, which the command reached on
March 4th. The mangled remains of the victims of the massacre had been
hastily interred by the Ogden party, but coyotes had partially exhumed them.
The remains were gathered by, the volunteers and reverently, though rudely,
buried at a point near the mission, a place where a marble crypt now encloses
the commingled bones of the martyrs. A lock of long, fair hair was found near
the ruined mission ground which was thought surely to be from the head of
Mrs. Whitman. It was preserved by one of the volunteers and is now one
of the precious relics in the historical museum of Whitman College.
The Cayuse War dragged along in a desultory fashion for nearly three
years. The refusal of the Nez Perces and Spokanes and the indiflference of the
Yakimas to join the Cay uses made their cause hopeless, though there were
several fierce fights with them and much severe campaigning. In 1850 a band
of friendly Umatilla Indians undertook to capture the chief band of the Cayuses
under Tamsaky, which had taken a strong position about the headwaters of the
John Day River. After a savage battle Tamsaky was killed and most of the
warriors captured. Of these, five, charged with the leading part in the Whit-
man massacre, were hanged at Oregon City on June 3, 1850. It remains a ques-
tion to this day, however, whether the victims of the gallows were really the
^ilty ones. The Cayuse Indians were quite firm in their assertion that Tam-
ahas, who, by one version, struck Doctor Whitman the first blow, was the only
one of the five concerned in the murder.
Thus ended the first of the principal wars in the Columbia Basin. It was
quickly followed by another, which was so extensive that it may well be called
universal. This was the War of 1855-56. This was the greatest Indian war
in the entire history of the Columbia River.
The first efforts of Governor Stevens were to secure treaties with the
Indians. Having negotiated several treaties in 1854 with the Puget Sound In-
dians, the governor passed over the Cascade Mountains to Walla Walla in
May, 1855. There during the latter part of May and first part of June, he held
a great council with representatives of seventeen tribes. Lieutenant Kip,
U. S. A., has preserved a vivid account of this great gathering, one of the most
important ever held in the annals of Indian history. According to Lieutenant
Kip, there were but about fifty men in the escort of the daring governor, and if
he had been a man sensible to fear he might well have been startled when there
came an army of twenty-five hundred Nez Perces under Halhaltlossot, known
as Lawyer by the whites. Two days later three hundred Cayuses, those worst
of the Columbia River Indians, surly and scowling, led by Five Crows and
Young Chief, made their appearance. Two days later a force of two thousand
Yakimas, Umatillas, and Walla Wallas came in sight under Kamiakin and Peu-
peumoxmox. The council was soon organized. Governor Stevens and General
Palmer, the latter the Indian agent for Oregon, set forth their plan of reserva-
tions, all these speeches being translated and retranslated until they had filtered
(15)
226 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
down among the general mass of the Indians. Then there must be a great
"wawa," or discussion by the Indians. It soon became apparent that there
were two bitterly contesting parties. One was a large faction of Nez Perces
led by Lawyer, who favoured the whites. The other faction of the Nez Perces,
with all the remaining tribes, were set against any treaty. With remarkable
skill and patience. Governor Stevens, with the powerful assistance of Lawyer,
had brought the Indians to a point of general agreement to the creation of a
system of reservation. But suddenly there was a commotion. Into the midst
of the council there burst the old chief Looking Glass (Apashwahayikt), sec-
ond only to Lawyer in influence among the Nez Perce. He had made a des-
perate ride of three hundred miles in seven days, following a buffalo hunt and a
raid against the Blackfeet, and as he now burst into the midst, there dangled
from his belt the scalps of several slaughtered Blackfeet. As quoted in Hazard
Stevens' life of Governor Stevens, he began his harangue thus: "My people,
what have you done? While I was gone you sold my country. I have come
home and there is not left me a place on which to pitch my lodge. Go home to
your lodges. I will talk with you." Lieutenant Kip declares that though he
could understand nothing of the speech of Looking Glass to his own tribe,
which followed, the efifect was tremendous. All the evidence showed that
Looking Glass was a veritable Demosthenes. The work of Governor Stevens
was all undone.
But later the governor and Lawyer succeeded in rallying their forces and
gaining the acquiescence of the Indians to the setting aside of three great res-
ervations, one on the Umatilla, one on the Yakima, and the third on the Clear-
water and the Snake. These reservations still exist, imperial domains in them-
selves, though now divided into individual allotments. The acquiescence of the
Indians in this treaty, as the sequel proved, was feigned by a number of them,
but for the time it seemed a great triumph for Governor Stevens. From Walla
Walla the Governor departed to the Coeur d'Alene, the Pend Oreille, and the
Missoula regions to continue his arduous task of negotiating treaties.
This great Walla Walla Council cannot be dismissed without brief refer-
ence to an event, not fully known at the time, but which subsequent investi-
gation made clear, and stamped as one of the most dramatic in the entire history
of Indian warfare. This event was the conspiracy of the Cayuses and Yakimas
to kill Governor Stevens and his entire band, and then exterminate the whites
throughout the country. While the acceptance of the treaty was still pending,
Kamiakin and Peupeumoxmox were framing the details of this wide-reaching
plot, which was indeed but the culmination of their great scheme of years.
Kamiakin was the soul of the conspiracy. He was a remarkable Indian. He
was of superb stature, and proportions, over six feet high, sinewy and active.
Governor Stevens said of him: "He is a peculiar man, reminding me of the
panther and the grizzly bear. His countenance has an extraordinary play, one
moment in frowns, the next in smiles, flashing with light and black as Erebus
the same instant. His pantomime is great, and his gesticulations many and
characteristic. He talks mostly in his face and with his hands and arms." He
was withal a typical Indian in treachery and secretiveness. Peupeumoxmox
was similar in nature, but was older and less capable.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY ' 227
In addition to this vivid description of the Yakima hero by Governor
Stevens, we wish to insert here the description of him as given by Winthrop in
"Canoe and Saddle." In the Chapter on Missionaries we quoted Winthrop'&
account of the "Atinam" Mission ("Le Play House" of the Indians, near Kam-
iakin's Gardens, the present Tampico), and the Oblate Fathers. Winthrop goes
on to describe his efforts to secure guides and horses for his journey from
"Atinam" to The Dalles and the statement of the Fathers that if he could find.
Kamiakin all could be arranged. The description of meeting the Yakima chief
follows : "When I woke, late as sunrise, after the crowded fatigues and diffin
culties of yesterday, I found that already my hosts had despatched Uplintz and'
Kpawintz to a supposed neighbor camp of their brethren, to seek me a guide.
Also the old servitor, a friendly grumbler, was ofif to the mountains on a similar
errand. Patience, therefore, and remember, hasty voyager, that many are the
chances of savage life.
"Antipodes had shaken to pieces whatever stitched bag he bore. I seized'
this moment to make repairs. Among my traps were needles and thread of
the stoutest, for use and for presents. The fascinating squaw of Weenas, if
she had but known it, was very near a largess of such articles. But the wrong-
doing of Sultan lost her the gift, and my tailor-stock was undiminished. I made
a lucky thrust at the one eye of a needle, and began my work with severe atten-
tion.
"While I was mending, Uplintz, with his admiring Orson, Kpawintz, came-
galloping back. Gone were the Indians they had sought ; gone — so said their
trail — to gad nomadly anywhere. And the two comrades, willing to go withi
me to the world's end for the pleasure of my society and the reward of my
shirts, must admit to Father Pandosy, cross-examining, that they had never
meandered along The Dalles hooihut.
"The old lay brother also returned bringing bad luck. Where he had looked'
to find populous lodges, he met one straggling squaw left there to potter alone,
while the Bedouins were far away. The many chances of Indian life seemed
chancing sadly against me. Should I despair of farther progress, and become
an acolyte of the Atinam Mission?
"Just then I raised my eyes, and lo ! a majestic Indian in Lincoln green !
He was dismounting at the corral from a white pacer. Who now? 'Le bow
Dieu I'envoie,' said Father Pandosy; 'cfest Kamaiakan mime.'
"Enter, then, upon this scene Kamaiakan, chiefest of Yakima chiefs. He-
was a tall, large man, very dark, with a massive square face, and grave, reflec- ,
tive look. Without the senatorial coxcombry of Owhhigh, his manner was:
strikingly distinguished, quiet and dignified. He greeted the priests as a Kaiser
might a Papal legate. To me, as their friend, he gave his hand with a gentle-
manly word of welcome.
"All the nobs I have known among Redskins have retained a certain dig-
nity of manner even in their beggarly moods. Among the plebeians, this ex-
cellence degenerates into a gruff coolness or insolent indifference. No one ever
saw a bustling or fussy Indian. Even when he begs of a lilanketeer gifted with
chattels, and beg he does without shame or shrinking, he asks as if he would do-
228 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
the possessor of so much trumpery an honor by receiving it at his hands. The
nauseous, brisk, pen-behind-the-ear manner of the thriving tradesman, compet-
itor with everything and everybody, would disgust an Indian even to the scalp-
ing point. Owhhigh, visiting my quarters at Squally with his fugue of beggars,
praying me to breech his breechless, shirt his shirtless, shoe his shoeless child,
treated me with a calm loftiness, as if I were merely a steward of his, or cer-
tainly nothing more than a copotentate of the world's oligarchy. He showed
no discomposure at my refusal, as unmoved as his request. Fatalism, indolence,
stolidity, and self-respect are combined in this indifiference. Most of a savage's
prayers for bounty are made direct to Nature ; when she refuses, she does so
according to majestic laws, of which he, half reflectively, half instinctively, is
conscious. He learns that there is no use in waiting and whining for salmon
out of season, or fresh grasshoppers in March. According to inevitable laws,
he will have, or will not have, salmon of the first water, and aromatic grass-
hoppers sweet as honeydew. Caprice is out of the question with Nature,
although her sex be feminine. Thus a savage learns to believe that power
includes steadiness.
"Kamaiakan's costume was novel. Louis Philippe dodging the police as
Mr. Smith, and adorned with a woollen comforter and a blue cotton umbrella,
was unkingly and a caricature. He must be every inch a king who can appear
in an absurd garb and yet look full royal. Kamiakin stood the test. He wore a
coat, a long tunic of fine green cloth. Like the irregular beds of a kitchen
garden were the patches, of all shapes and sizes, combined to form this robe of
ceremony. A line, zigzag as the path over new-fallen snow trodden by a man
after toddies too many, such devious line marked the waist. Sleeves, baggy
here, and there tight as a bandage, were inserted somewhere, without refer-
ence to the anatomical insertion of arms. Each verdant patch was separated
from its surrounding patches by a rampart or a ditch of seam, along which
stitches of white threads strayed like vines. It as a gerrymandered coat, gerry-
mandered according to some system perhaps understood by the operator, but
to me complex, impolitic, and unconstitutional.
"Yet Kamaiakan was not a scarcecrow. Within this garment of disjunc-
tive conjunction he stood a chieftainly man. He had the advantage of an im-
posing presence and bearing, and above all a good face, a well-lighted Pharos
at the top of his colossal frame. We generally recognize whether there is a man
looking at us from behind what he chances to use for eyes, and when we detect
the man, we are cheered or bullied according to what we are. It is intrinsically
more likely that the chieftainly man will be an acknowledged chief among simple
savages, than in any of the transitional phases of civilization preceding the edu-
cated simplicity of social life, whither we now tend. Kamaiakan, in order to
be chiefest chief of the Yakimas, must be clever enough to master the dodges
of salmon and the will of wayward mustangs; or like Fine-Ear, he must know
where kamas bulbs are mining a passage for their sprouts; or he must be able
to tramp farther and fare better than his fellows; or, by a certain tamanous
that is in him, he must have power to persuade or convince, to win or over-
bear. He must be best as a hunter, a horseman, a warrior, an orator. These
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 229
are attributes not heritable; if Kamaiakan Junior is a nature's nobody, he takes
no permanent benefit by his parentage."
Thus much for Winthrop's view of the "Last Hero of the Yakimas."
The opposite of Kamiakin and Peupeumoxmox in conception of the situa-
tion was Halhaltlossot or Lawyer, the Solon of the Nez Perces. When Lawyer
became convinced that the Yakimas and Cayuses were planning to exterminate
the Governor and his party he went by night to the camp and revealed the con-
spiracy.
Hazard Stevens gives a most vivid account of this event. The powerful
opposition of Lawyer's faction of the Nez Perces made it clear to Kamiakin
and his followers that they could not count upon such united support as to put
through their existing scheme. The Nez Perces saved the day for the whites.
And yet the sequel is one of the most lamentable examples of the miscar-
riage of justice in Indian alTairs that we have any record of. The friendly Nez
Perces saved the whites. The unfriendly faction of the Nez Perces, led by
Joseph and Looking Glass, finally yielded and accepted the treaty. But they
did this with certain expectations in regard to their reservation. This was set
forth to the author by William McBean, a half-breed Indian, son of the McBean
who was the commandant of the Hudson's Bay post at Wallula. McBean the
younger was a boy at the time of the council at Walla Walla. He was familiar
with all the Indian languages spoken at the council and in appearance was so
much of an Indian that he could pass unquestioned anywhere. Governor Stev-
ens asked him to spy out the situation and learn what the Nez Perce were going
to decide. The result of his investigations was to show that the whole decision
hinged on the understanding by Joseph's faction that, if they acquiesced in
the treaty they should hold perpetual possession of the Wallowa country in
Northeastern Oregon as their special allotment. Becoming finally satisfied that
this would be granted them, they yielded to the Lawyer faction and thus the
entire Nez Perce tribe made common cause with the whites, rendering the exe-
cution of the great plot of Kamiakin and Peupeumoxmox a foredoomed failure.
But now for the sequel. Though it was thus clear in the minds of Joseph and
his division of the Nez Perces that the loved Wallowa (one of the fairest
regions that ever the sun shone on and a perfect land for Indians) was to be
their permanent home, yet the stipulation, if indeed it were intended by Gov-
ernor Stevens, never became definitely set down in the "Great Father's" records
at Washington. The result was that when, twenty years later, the manifold at-
tractions of the Wallowa country began to draw white immigration, the Indians,
now under Young Joseph, son of the former chief, stood by their supposed
rights and the great Nez Perce War of 1877 ensued.
For a better understanding of this singular situation we are adding here
a valuable transcription furnished to the author by Major Jay Lynch of Yakima,
from which it appears that President Grant had formally withdrawn the order
creating that reservation. The whole history illustrates the unfortunate results
230 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
of lack of continuity and stability in Indian afifairs and consequent misunder-
standings by the Indians.
The transcription referred to is as follows:
Wallowa Valley Reserve.
Department of the Interior,
Office of Indian Affairs, June 9, 1873.
The above diagram is intended to show a proposed reservation for the
roaming Nez Perce Indians in the Wallowa Valley, in the state of Oregon.
Said proposed reservation is indicated on the diagram by red lines, and is de-
scribed as follows, viz. :
Commencing at the right bank of the mouth of the Grande Ronde River;
thence up Snake River to a point due east of the southeast corner of township
No. 1, south of the base line of the surveys in Oregon, in range No. 46 east of
the Willamette meridian; thence from said point due west to the West Fork
of the Wallowa River ; thence down said West Fork to its junction with the
Wallowa River ; thence down said river to its confluence with the Grande Ronde
River ; thence down the last named .river to the place of beginning.
I respectfully recommend that the President be requested to order that the
lands comprised within the above described limits be withheld from entry and
settlement as public lands, and that the same be set apart is an Indian reserva-
tion, as indicated in my report to the Department of this date.
Edward P. Smith, Commissioner.
Department of the Interior, June 11, 1873.
RespecfuUy presented to the President, with the recommendation that he
make the order above proposed by the Commissioner of Indian Affairs.
C. Delano, Secretary.
Executive Mansion, June 16, 1873.
It is hereby ordered that the tract of country above described be withheld
from entry and settlement as public lands, and that the same be set apart as a
reservation for the roaming Nez Perce Indians, as recommended by the Sec-
retary of the Interior and the Commissioner of Indian Affairs.
U. S. Grant.
Executive Mansion, June 10, 1875.
It is hereby ordered that the order dated June 16, 1873, withdrawing from
sale and from settlement and setting apart the Wallowa Valley, in Oregon, de-
scribed as follows: Commencing at the right bank of the mouth of the Grande
Ronde River, thence up Snake River to a point due east of the southeast comer
of township No. 1 south of the base line of the surveys in Oregon, in range
No. 46 east of the Willamette meridian ; thence from said point due west to the
west fork of the Wallowa River; thence down said west fork to its junction
with the Wallowa River; thence down said river to its confluence with the
Grande Ronde River; thence down the last named river to the place of begin-
opjngl te 1 11 1 1 a e 1 h I \ Mm
PF \( H Tl- I \ I \ OR t \PT \I\ I \( K
YAKi.MA \VAi;i;U)i; scorT>-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 231
ning, as an Indian reservation, is hereby revoked and annulled; and the said
described tract of country is hereby restored to the public domain.
U. S. Grant.
And now, after this digression, we resume the thread of our discourse.
After the supposed settlement at Walla Walla, Governor Stevens pro-
ceeded to the Coeur d'Alene and Pend Oreille lakes to negotiate similar treaties
with the Flatheads. After concluding a treaty there he crossed the Rockies to
Fort Benton on the Missouri to meet the Blackfeet.
But meanwhile Kamiakin, Peupeumoxmox, Young Chief, and Five Crows
had formed a new league, the treaties were thrown away, and the flame of
savage warfare burst forth throughout the entire Columbia Valley.
Hazard Stevens, in his invaluable history of his father, gives a vivid pic-
ture of how the news reached them in their camp thirty-five miles up the Mis-
souri from Fort Benton. Summer had now passed into Autumn. A favorable
treaty had been made with the Blackfeet. On October 29th, the little party
were gathered around their campfire in the frosty air of Fall in that high lati-
tude, when they discerned a solitary rider making his way slowly toward them.
As he drew near they soon saw that it was Pearson, the express rider. Pear-
son was one of the best examples of those scouts whose lives were spent in con-
veying messages from forts to parties in the field. He usually travelled alone,
and his life was always in his hand. He seemed to be made of steel springs,
and it had been thought that he could endure anything. "He could ride any-
thing that wore hair." He rode seventeen hundred and fifty miles in twenty-
eight days at one time, one stage of two hundred and sixty miles having been
made in three days. But as he slowly drew up to the party in the cold evening
light, it was seen that even Pearson was "done." His horse staggered and fell,
and he himself could not speak for some time. After he had been revived he
told his story, and a story of disaster and foreboding it was, sure enough.
All the great tribes of the Columbia plains west of the Nez Perces had
troken out, the Cayuses, Yakimas, Palouses, Walla Wallas, Umatillas and
Klickitats. They had swept the country clean of whites. The ride of Pearson
from The Dalles to the point where he reached Governor Stevens is one of the
most thrilling in the annals of the river. By riding all day and night, he reached
a horse ranch on the Umatilla belonging to a noted half-breed Indian, William
McKay, but he found the place deserted. Seeing a splendid horse in the bunch
near by, he lassoed and saddled him. Though the horse was as wild as air,
Pearson managed to mount and start on. Just then there swept into view a
force of Indians who, instantly divining what Pearson was trying to do, gave
■chase. Up and down hill, through vale, and across the rim rock, they followed,
sending frequent bullets after him, and yelling like demons, "Whupsiah si-ah-
poo, Whup-si-ah!" ("Kill the white man!"). But the wild horse which the
intrepid rider bestrode proved his salvation, for he gradually outran all his pur-
suers. Traveling through the Walla Walla at night Pearson reached the camp
of a friendly Nez Perce, Red Wolf, on the Alpowa the next day, having ridden
two hundred miles from The Dalles without stopping except for the brief time
of changing horses. Snow and hunger now impeded his course. Part of the
232 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
way he had to go on snowshoes without a horse. But with unflinching resolu-
tion he passed on, and so now, here he was with his dismal tidings.
The despatches warned Governor Stevens that Kamiakin with a thousand
warriors was in the Walla Walla Valley and that it would be impossible for
him to get through by that route, and that he must therefore return to the east
by the Missouri and come back to his Territory by the steamer route of Panama.
That meant six months' delay. With characteristic boldness, Governor Stevens
at once rejected the more cautious course and went right back to Spokane by
the Coeur d'Alene Pass, deep already with the Winter snows, suffering intensely
with the cold and hunger, but avoiding by that route the Indians sent out tO'
intercept him. With extraordinary address, he succeeded in turning the Spo-
kane Indians to his side. The Nez Perces, thanks to Lawyer's fidelity, were
still friendly, and with these two powerful tribes arrayed against the Yakimas,
there was still hope of holding the Columbia Valley.
After many adventures, Governor Stevens reached Olympia in safety. Gov-
ernor Curry of Oregon had already called a force of volunteers into the field.
The Oregon volunteers were divided into two divisions, one under Col. J. W.
Nesmith, which went into the Yakima country, and the other under Lieut.-CoL
J. K. Kelley, which went to Walla Walla. The latter force fought the decisive
battle of the campaign on the 7th, 8th, 9th and 10th of December, 1855. It
was a series of engagements occurring in the heart of the Walla Walla Valley,
a "running fight" culminating at what is now called Frenchtown, ten miles west
of the present city of Walla Walla. The most important feature of it all was-
the death of the great Walla Walla chieftain, Peupeumoxmox. But though
defeated and losing so important a chief, the Indians scattered across the rivers
and were still unsubdued.
We have been following to this point the movements of Governor Stevens
in order to preserve the continuity of the story, but in order to be correct in
chronology we must turn back a few months and take our station in Yakima,
for here actual hostilities began. In narrating the story of the Yakima War
the historian has the privilege of following a competent authority.
For here we may avail ourselves of the recently published narrative by
A. J. Splawn, "Kamiakin, the Last Hero of the Yakimas."
Many of our readers will no doubt have already read Mr. Splawn's pic-
turesque and valuable book. If so they will have discovered in detail the essen-
tial features of what we must be content to give in bare outline. In order,
however, to exhibit the conditions which in Mr. Splawn's judgment created the
state of mind which prepared the Indians for war, we incorporate at this-
point the third chapter of the book. "In 1853 Lieut. George B. McClellan ar-
rived at Fort Vancouver with a party of men for the purpose of exploring the
Cascade Mountains in the interest of the Northern Pacific R. R. His main
object was to find, if possible, a feasible pass through this range. He was under
the immediate command of I. I. Stevens, who had recently been appointed gov-
ernor for Washington Territory and who was then on his way overland from
the east with a force of men, viewing out a route for this same railroad and
making treaties with the dififerent Indian tribes with which he came in contact.
"When McClellan left Fort Vancouver, Indian runners were dispatched to
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 235
the Klickitats and Yakimas to notify the tribes of his coming. The first gov-
ernment equipped body of men to reach the Yakima country, it was regarded
with suspicion. Skloom, a brother of Ka-mi-akin, was dispatched to the sum-
mit of the Cascades to meet the soldiers and learn of their intended movements
and purposes. He returned with the additional information that Governor
Stevens would be in their country the following year for the purpose of making
a treaty with all the tribes; that the Great White Father at Washington, D. C,
wished to buy their lands and open them up for white settlement. Nothing
more startling or undesired from the Indian viewpoint could have been men-
tioned.
"Upon his arrival at the Catholic Mission on the x^htanum, McClellan was
met by Ka-mi-akin, who, together with the priest. Father Pandosy, interviewed
him both in regard to his own intentions and those of Governor Stevens.
Again, when McClellan was encamped on the Wenas during his exploring-
trip through the Nah-cheez Pass, Ka-mi-akin visited him, and, imme-
diately after, rode over to Ow-hi's home in the Kittitas Valley to inform him
of what he had learned. They made an arrangement that when the 'White
Chief (McClellan) reached Kittitas, Ow-hi should accompany him to Wen-
at-sha (Wenatchee), with a view to confirming what had already been reported
and to gaining further information regarding the probable actions of Governor
Stevens. Ow-hi, accompanied by Quil-ten-e-nock, a brother of Sulk-talth-
scos-um (Moses), did go on to Wenatchee with McClellan, and, a few days
after his return home, rode to Ka-mi-akin's village on the Ahtanum to talk over
the situation. The result of the conference was a decision to try to defeat any
treaty with the Indians that Governor Stevens might attempt to make.
"Word went out to all the tribes of the Northwest that the Father in
Washington, D. C, wanted their lands for the white men and that a great white-
chief was even now on his way out to buy them, and that, moreover, if they re-
fused to sell, soldiers would be sent to drive them of? and seize the lands. Such,
news naturally aroused the indignation of every tribe in Washington Territory,
creating a strong prejudice against Stevens, so that, upon his arrival, he was
regarded with the suspicion that would attach to a man who had come to take
from them their country. This was the situation at the beginning of 1854.
"During the Summer of that year Governor Stevens met several head men
of the different tribes, including Ow-hi, leader of what was then known as the
upper Yakima, extending from Nah-cheez River north to the headwaters of
the Yakima. Stevens told him that he wished to hold a council with all the
interested tribes in eastern Washington and eastern Oregon the following year
to talk over the purchase of Indian lands. Ow-hi replied that the Indians did
not want to sell and wished to be left alone. He was assured that, if the Indians
would not sell, the whites would take the land any way and the Indians get nO'
return; also, that if they refused to make a treaty with him, soldiers would be
sent into their country to wipe them ofif the face of the earth. Stevens requesed
Ow-hi to communicate this fact to the different chiefs, which he did without
delay.
"When the words of Stevens were repeated by Ow-hi to Ka-mi-akin, the
latter had exclaimed : 'At last we are face to face with those dreaded people,.
-"234 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
the coming of whom was foretold by the old medicine man, Wa-tum-nah, long
■ ago. Peu-peu-mox-mox, who has been in California, says that the Indians
•there are fast dying off. I have traveled through the Willamette Valley since
jts settlement by the whites and found only a sad remainder left of the once
.powerful Mult-no-mahs and Cal-a-poo-yas. So it will be with us, if we allow
-the whites to settle in our country. Heretofore we have allowed them to travel
ithrdugh unmolested, and we refused to help the Cay-uses in their war with
them, for we wanted to live in peace and be left alone; but we have been both
jnistaken and deceived. Now, when that pale-faced stranger. Governor Stevens,
from a distant land, sends to us such words as you have brought me, I am for
war. If they take our lands, their trails will be marked with blood.'
"Ka-mi-akin requested Ow-hi to bring to his village in two weeks Quil-
len-e-nock and Apashwayiikt (Looking Glass), war chief of the Nez Perces, to
summon him to a meeting at the village of Peu-peu-moxmox, near Wallula, at
once. This done, he rode to the Catholic Mission, St. Joseph, a few miles
below on the Ahtanum to tell Father Pandosy of the message sent by Governor
Stevens. The priest replied: "It is as I feared. The whiles will take your coun-
try as they have taken other countries from the Indians. I come from the land
of the white man far to the east, where the people are thicker than the grass
on the hills. While there are only a few here now,' others will come with 'each
year until your country will be overrun with them ; your land will be taken and
your people driven from their homes. It has been so with other tribes ; it will
be so with you. You may fight and delay for a time this invasion, but you
cannot avert it. I have lived many Summers with you, and baptised a great
number of your people into the faith. I have learned to love you. I cannot
advise or help you. I wish I could.'
"Mounting his horse the chief rode back to the village. What passed
through his mind at that time can only be surmised. Was it then that he worked
out his plan for a confederacy of all the red men west of the Rocky Mountains
for a last stand against the hated white race?
"With his brother Skloom and another trusted man, as well as a few extra
horses, along, Ka-mi-akin then set out for the home of Peu-peu-moxmox,
where A-pash-wa-yi-ikt, the Nez Perce soon joined them. Here Ka-mi-akin
repeated the words of Governor Stevens, as told him by Ow-hi, and unfolded
his plan for a confederacy of all the tribes from British Columbia to the south-
cm boundary of Oregon, for the purpose of resisting, if it became necessary,
the occupancy of their lands by the whites. Both of these influential chiefs
;gave their approval. After a day and night spent in consultation, a definite
plan was agreed upon. A council should be called to meet in a month. The
message from Governor Stevens was to be spread broadcast and tribal councils
called to select head men to attend the grand council. The meeting place was
to be the Grande Ronde Valley of eastern Oregon, a rendezvous selected both
because of its remoteness and in the hope that the Snake tribes might be in-
■duced to join. In order to keep the whites from learning of the proposed
gathering, strict secrecy must be observed.
"Couriers were sent speeding to the south at once to spread out among
Ihe different nations, while Skloom, with another Yakima, went to the Warm
MAID OF THE FALLING LEAVES TOKIAKEX TWI WA.SU OR TO.M .SMAKT-
LOWIT
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 235
.Springs, Des Chutes, Tihghs and Was-co-pams, with the intention also of
visiting the Klickitats on their return to Yakima.
"Ka-mi-akin returned to the Ahtanum alone. Shortly after, Ow-hi, Quil-
ten-e-nock, Sulk-talth-scos-um and Qual-chan arrived in response to his sum-
-mons and were informed of the result of his meeting with Peu-peu-moxmox
and Looking Glass. The Yakima chief urged them to busy themselves in the
north, east and west, in the work Skloom was doing in the Des Chutes country
and the couriers in the south.
"These bold men were pleased with the plan and eager for action. An
understanding was soon reached. Quil-ten-e-nock and Sulk-talth-scos-um were
to go north; Qual-chan to Puget Sound to meet Leschi and others who would
look after that region; while Ka-mi-akin and Ow-hi would go east.
"Well equipped with tough and wiry horses, and a few men along to look
■ after them they were soon on their respective ways, full of hope. To the head
men of each tribe they dwelt on the menace in the words of Governor Stevens
and insisted that their only hope was to stand together. If soldiers were sent
into any part of the Indian country and a battle fought, it should be the signal
for a general uprising from every quarter.
"The council which met in the Grande Ronde Valley in 1854 was the most
noted gathering of red men that had ever been seen in this vast territory. It
lasted five days, during which speakers were heard from nearly every tribe.
Only Hal-halt-los-sot (Lawyer) of the Nez Perces, Stic-cas of the Cay-uses
and Garry of the Spokanes were in favor of making a treaty with Governor
Stevens and selling their lands. The Sho-sho-nees, as well as other tribes not
directly interested in the treaty, said: 'We have been for many years in almost
constant warfare with the whites and are in a position to begin hostilities at
any time. If you decide on war and begin to fight, let the signals flash from
the mountain tops and we will do our part ; but we will fight only in our own
country.' The Flatheads were not represented in this council, though many
of them fought in the war later on. Lawyer and Stic-cas hung out strong for a
council with Stevens, taking the view that if all were in a position to hear
•directly what the emissary of the whites had to say, war might, perhaps, be
avoided ; but they were much in the minority.
"All of the interested chiefs, except these two, then met and concluded to
mark the boundaries of the different tribes so that each chief could rise in
council, claim his boundaries and ask that the land be made a reservation for
his people. Then there would be no lands for sale, the council would fail, and
the contention of Lawyer and Stic-cas, at the same time, be met. The bound-
aries were agreed upon as follows:
"Ow-hi, for the Yakimas, Klickitats, Wick-rams and So-kulks, should
have the territory extending from the Cascade Falls of the Columbia River
north along the summit of the Cascade Mountains to the head of Cle-El-um,
•east by Mount Stuart and the ridge of the We-nat-sha Moutnains north of
the Kittitas Valley, to the Columbia River and across to Moses Lake, thence
:South to White Bluffs, crossing to the west side, and on down the Columbia to
the point of beginning, including all of Klickitat, Yakima and Kittitas valleys.
236 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
"To-qual-e-can, for the Wenatshas, that country north of Ow-hi's boun-
dary to Lake Chelan and east as far as Grand Coulee.
"In-no-mo-se-cha, for the Chelans, that country north as far as Methow,
then east to Grand Coulee.
"Se-cept-kain, for the Okanogans, all north of the Methow to the boundary
of British Columbia with the Okanogan River for the east boundarj'. All of
the above boundaries extended west to the summit of the Cascades.
"To-nas-ket claimed for the Kettle Falls tribe of the Okanogans all that
country between the Columbia River and the east bank of the Okanogan north
to the boundary of British Columbia.
"Chin-chin-no-wab, for the Colvilles, asked for the land east to To-nas-ket's
boundary, including the Spokane and Colville valleys.
"Lot, for his tribe of Spokanes, wanted the land east of that claimed by
Chin-chin-no-wah to Spokane Falls.
"Garry and Po-lat-kin, for their following of the same tribe, wanted that
east of Lot's land from Spokane Falls to the summit of the Cceur d'Alene Moun-
tains and about twenty miles south of Spokane Falls and east of the Palouse
country.
"Sal-tes, for the Coeur d'Alenes, claimed that part known as the eastern
portion of the Palouse country south of Garry's and Po-lat-kin's holdings, with
the Snake River at Pen-e-wa-wa for the southern boundary.
"Three Eagles asked for his band of Nez Perces the land south and east
of Sal-tes' claim to the summit of the Bitter Root Mountains and the north side
of the Clearwater.
"Looking Glass' and Lawyer's following of the same tribe claimed all
lying south of Three Eagles' land, including Kam-i-ah, Craig Mountain and
Camas Prairie.
"Joseph, for the Salmon River Nez Perces, spoke for the main Salmon
and Little Salmon rivers and the headwaters of the Weiser, Payette and
Wallowa valleys.
"Five Crows, of the Cay-uses, wanted the Grande Ronde Valley, Umatilla
and as far down the Columbia as John Day's River in Oregon.
"The Warm Springs, Des Chutes, Was-co-pams and Tighs asked for the
land from John Day's River to the Cascade Falls of the Columbia and south
along the summit of the Cascade Mountains to Mount Jefferson, then east to
the John Day River and down that stream to the Columbia.
"Thus a circle was completed, including practically all of the lands in
eastern Washington and a large portion of eastern Oregon, thereby leaving no
lands to treat for with the Government. If Governor Stevens now asked for a
council it was agreed that they should consent, but should give up no land.
"The spirit of war was now thoroughly aroused; the fire smouldering
ready for the first breeze to fan it into flame. During the Winter of 1854,
many councils and feasts were held among the tribes, at which the talk was all
of war.
"The leading spirit and master mind of this confederpcy, Ka-mi-akin, with
an endurance that seemed to have no limit, flew from tribe to tribe, dispensing
that fiery eloquence so potent among the red men.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 237
"Reviving the memory of their wrongs, he said: 'We wish to be left alone
in the lands of our forefathers, whose bones lie in the sand hills and along the
trails, but a paleface stranger had come from a distant land and sends word to
us that we must give up our country, as he wants it for the white man. Where
can we go? There is no place left. Only a single mountain now separates us
from the big salt of the setting sun. Our fathers from the hunting
grounds of the other world are looking down on us today. Let us not make
them ashamed! My people, the Great Spirit has his eyes upon us. He will
be angry if, like cowardly dogs, we give up our lands to the whites. Better to
die like brave warriors on the battlefield, than Uve among our vanquishers,
despised. Our young men and women would speedily become debauched by
their fire water and we should perish as a race.'
"With such words he had no difficulty in holding the compact solid.
"When the snow had left the valleys, but was yet hanging low on the
hills, a small party of white men rode into Ka-mi-akin's camp on the south
side of the Yakima River, a few miles below the present town of Zillah. The
leader proved to be James Doty, sent out by Governor Stevens to arrange with
the various tribes for a grand council to be held May 20th. The Yakima chief
gave his consent to the plan, and named Pasha, a spot in the Walla Walla
Valley where now stands the city of Walla Walla, which was an ancient coun-
cil ground, for the meeting. Doty also visited the Walla Wallas, Cay-uses and
Nez Perces, all of whom agreed to hold the council where Ka-mi-akin had
suggested.
"The utmost effort was made by the Indians during the Spring and Sum-
mer to gather and store all the food possible. Every woman and girl was
digging roots, while every man and boy was catching and drying salmon, as
well as killing and curing meat. This activity continued throughout the season.
"But from the time of the Grande Ronde council, there had been a subtle
force at work to defeat the aims of the confederacy. The Nez Perce, Lawyer,
had notified Indian Agent A. J. Bolon of this council and its purpose. Lawyer
was a far-seeing, cunning and ambitious man. With the education and knowl-
edge gained in travel, he was the best posted Indian in the Northwest in regard
to the strength and power of the whites. He knew that the Indians could not
cope with them in war and that the inevitable result would be the defeat and
humiliation of the red man. By showing his friendship for the whites he
thought to gain advantages for his own tribe and promotion for himself. Poli-
tician that he was, he played into the hands of the enemies of his race. White
historians will applaud him, but from the standpoint of the Indian he was as
much a traitor as were the Tories in the war for American independence. It
turned out as he expected. By his perfidy he gained a large reservation for his
tribe and advancement for himself." — Such is Mr. Splawn's account.
Such was the state of mind among the Indians when Governor Stevens
met them at Walla Walla. It is not surprising, therefore, that they ratified
the treaty with a large mental reservation. It is suitable to record here, how-
ever, that Mr. Splawn repudiates the story of Lawyer that there was a con-
spiracy among the Yakimas and Cayuses to exterminate Stevens and his
238 . HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
soldiers. He believes that story to have been invented by Lawyer purely in,
his own interest.
About a month after the Walla Walla council Kamiakin had a conterence
of the principal chiefs at his place near the present Tampico. At this confer-
ence war was practically agreed on and the warriors waited only for an occa-
sion. The aim was to line up all the Indians of the Northwest and make a
clean sweep of the "Shweyappos" (whites). Qualchan, who seems to have
been the Achilles of the tribes, as Kamiakin was their Agamemnon, had been
to the Sound to rouse Leschi, whose mother was a Yakima.
OUTBRE.\K OF WAR
The occasion was soon ofifered. Gold had been discovered near the Cana-
dian boundary on the Columbia. Indians or no Indians, eager adventurers at
many points were making ready for a rush into the "diggings."
Among others a party of six white men from Seattle were making their
way in spite of warnings through the Yakima Valley. At 3 point said by Mr.
Splawn to be near the present dam of the Cascade mill company Qualchan with
a party of five relatives overtook the whites and after a little "wawa," as the
whites were just ready to ford the Yakima, fired upon them, killing four. The
others were followed and soon dispatched. Mr. Splawn mentions five of the
slain, Jamieson, Walker, Cummings, Huffman, and Fanjoy. In an address at
the meeting of the Oregon Historical Society at Portland December 19, 1914,
Mr. Thomas W. Prosch states the details a little differently, to the effect that
there were seven men in the party, that three escaped and reached their homes
and that the four killed were Eaton, Fanjoy, Walker, and Jamieson.
It was generally believed that other miners lost their lives. Whatever the
exact facts, white men were murdered and the flood gates of a desolating Indian
war were open.
BOLON MURDER
A. J. Bolon, Indian agent at The Dalles, upon learning of these bloody
deeds, started for the scene. He knew many of the Indians and seems to have
been very friendly with Showaway, a brother of Kamiakin. Being a brave and
resolute man and having great confidence in his power over the Indians, Bolon
went alone, expecting to pass on from Yakima to Colville and thence to meet
Stevens on his return from the Blackfoot country. Leaving The Dalles, Sep-
tember 20, 1855, Bolon reached the lodge of Showaway on the Toppenish, and
there the chieftain urged him to return at once, declaring that his life was in
danger. Bolon followed the advice and the next day set forth on his return.
While in the Simcoe hills at a point about twenty-five miles from the
present Fort Simcoe, Bolon was overpowered and murdered with peculiar atro-
city, his head being hacked from his body. There seems some difference of
opinion as to the perpetrators of this dreadful deed. Mr. Splawn regards it as
the work of Mecheil, the son of Showaway. The author has derived from
Frank Olney of Toppenish the statement that five Indians attacked Bolon while
one Indian fought for him. Bolon was a very powerful mamand'made a gal--
lant fight but he and his Indian helper were finally overpowered' and his headl
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 239^
was severed from his body. The place where it occurred became known as
Twenty-five Mile Creek, on account of being that distance from the point
where Fort Simcoe was afterwards located. Chief Stwires (Waters) gave a
vivid account of Bolon whom he knew well, though he had no direct knowledge
of the murder. He said that Bolon was red-headed, very strong and could
outrun a horse, — "good man." It must be noted that the usual account, which
we have been following, is not sustained by the only living witness. This wit-
ness is an Indian and he has declared to L. V. McWhorter that no Indian fought
with Bolon, that Bolon's head was not severed from his body, nor his body
burned.
BATTLES IN YAKIMA
The necessary and immediate consequence of these murders was action by
the military authorities at The Dalles. Major Rains directed Major Haller to.
proceed at once to Yakima with eighty-four men, and at the same time he pro-
vided that Lieutenant Slaughter go from Steilacoom with a cooperating force
of forty men. These orders led to the famous battle on the Toppenish, on
October 5, 1855. Major Rains in a communication to Governor Curry speaks
of the battlefield as on the Pasco River.
Mr. Splawn gives a vivid account of this battle. It lasted from 3 p. m.
on October 5th till the night of the 6th. Kamiakin was tlie Indian commander,
and urged on the attack with great daring. But Haller's men held their ground -
doggedly and during the afternoon began to push the Indians across the north
side of the stream. Kamiakin, having perceived the danger of a scattering of
his soldiers by the solid massed attack of the civilized men, had sent a swift
messenger to urge the coming of Qualchan whom he knew to be somewhere in
the Selah region with two hundred well mounted and well armed braves. The
messenger met Qualchan at Pahotecute (Union Gap), and under the impulse
of impending disaster that bold warrior (the Indian Murat, Mr. Splawn calls
him) urged his command across the plain with such vehemence that they burst
like a thunderbolt into the battle just in the nick of time to save the day for
the Indians. Surviving Indians contradict this and say that Qualchan was in the
battle all the time. Night fell upon an undecided field, but Haller perceived
that the odds were too great and during the night he sent "Cut-Mouth" John
to The Dalles for help. The messenger managed to elude observation and
reached Major Rains to report Haller's desperate situation. Rains sent a mes-
sage at once, October 9th, to Governor Curry of Oregon and acting Governor
Mason of Washington to hurry volunteer reinforcements to the inland country.
Meanwhile on the morning of the 7th, Qualchan began a violent attack
on Haller's little band. When night came again the Indians, confident of vic-
tory in the morning, ceased their attack. Haller stole a-way in the darkness
and by morning light was far up the sides of the Simcoe hills. In the Klickitat
Valley they met reinforcements sent on by Rains in response to Cut-Mouth
John's message. But believing the united force too small to meet the formid-
able array of Kamiakin and Qualchan, Major Haller continued his retreat to
The Dalles. He had lost eight men killed and seventeen wounded. Mr. Prosch
says five killed and nineteen wounded.
240 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
While this repulse of Haller was in progress, Lieutenant Slaughter with
his cooperating force from Steilacoom was overtaken by a message while he
was on the Cascade Mountains, that outbreaks had begun on the west side and
that he must return. Obeying the order he went back to his death at Auburn by
Indians a few weeks later. The author received from Judge Milroy of Yakima
a thrilling story of Col. H. D. Cock, well known as first marshal of Yakima.
Colonel Cock was in Slaughter's command, and when the order to return
reached the command, he, with one other man, was ordered to go to the Klick-
itat to warn settlers. The two men set forth on their perilous journey down
the Naches and across the Ahtanum and Toppenish. Cock's companion was
killed by Indians, but he, having a fast horse and marvelous good fortune, as
well as much address, managed to elude them. He would alternately ride and
run beside his horse and then hide in the tall marsh grass and bushes. By these
tactics he finally made his way across the hills of the Satus and reached the
Klickitat unharmed.
Needless to say that when Haller reached The Dalles and reported the
strength of the Yakima Indians, it was seen that the military, both Regular
and Volunteer, were going to be taxed to the utmost. There has been much
bitter criticism of the United States Government by writers and pioneers for
alleged remissness in preparation for such a crisis. In the "History of the
Pacific Northwest," of which Elwood Evans was editor-in-chief, page 535
and on, there are quotations from the reports of Nathan Olney, Governor
Stevens, and General Wool, indicating their comprehension of impending dan-
ger. Governor Stevens refers to the warning which he received earlier from
Rev. Father Ricard, then superior of missions in the Yakima and Cayuse coun-
tries, that the Indians meditated violence at the Walla Walla council in May.
The Governor, however, seems to have believed that he had thoroughly cowed
the Indians there and secured their acquiescence in the treaties. Mr. Splawn
quite severely criticises the Governor for his inability to see from the sullen
and brooding silence of all the Indians, except the Lawyer faction of Nez Perces,
that they were dissatisfied with the treaties and had no intention of adhering
to them.
Upon the call of Major Rains to the two governors for volunteers, those
officials acted with promptness and energ}' and two companies from Washing-
ton and nine from Oregon were mustered in.
The Oregon companies composed one regiment and J. W. Nesmith, subse-
quently United States senator from Oregon, became its Colonel.
DISCORD BETWEEN VOLUNTEERS AND REGUL.iiRS
Throughout this war there was an unfortunate failure to maintain har-
mony between the United States Regulars and the Volunteers and state gov-
ernments. These bitter controversies would constitute a book in themselves
and we can devote no more time to them than to say that they gave a certain
form and direction to the events of the entire period.
The two companies of Washington Volunteers were mustered into the
service of the United States, but the Oregon regiment declined this disposition
photo by J. \V. Lang-don
YKS-TO-LAH-LEMY, WIFE OF lAT-PAH HIX
STE-CLAH CHE-FOS-TO-COS: -OWl
LUPAHHIN
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 241
and maintained independence of action. Governor Curry, indeed, enjoined
upon the Oregon force that they should, "so far as practicable, act in conjunc-
tion with Major Rains, chief in command.Qf the United States troops, and, at
the same time keeping your command a distinct one, afford him a cordial coop-
eration." In order to avoid the awkward situation from Major Rains having
a rank technically inferior to that of Colonel Nesmith, acting Governor Mason
commissioned Major Rains as Brigadier General of Washington Volunteers.
On October 30th, Major Rains set forth from The Dalles with 350 men,
regulars, among whom was Lieut. Philip H. Sheridan, and volunteers, the latter
consisting of a company from Vancouver under William Strong and a company
from the Willamette under Robert Newell. Colonel Nesmith with six com-
panies of volunteers acted in conjunction with Major Rains, though maintain-
ing the independence of the command. There was a total force variously
stated at from 600 to 700 men.
The events of this campaign are differently given by Elwood Evans, A. J.
Splawn and T. W. Prosch, our chief authorities. All agree that the campaign
was a complete failure. Evans indulges in bitter censure of the regular sol-
diers, including General Wool, commander-in-chief of the Department of the
Pacific. Prosch declares that the expedition was a complete failure owing to
the timidity, slowness, and ineffiSciency of Major Rains. He says that only one
Indian was killed and he was a helpless old man. By reason of getting the im-
pression that the Catholic missionaries were aiding the Indians the volunteers
burned the Mission house on the Ahtanum. To quote from Prosch: "Rains
wrote a bombastic letter to Chief Kamiakin November 13th, which, if received,
must have astonished and puzzled him. The authorities were also astonished
and annoyed by this military fiasco. Capt. E. O. C. Ord, a few years later a
successful and distinguished general in the army of the Union, but in this ex-
pedition having three howitzers to look after, at once filed charges against
Major Rains and demanded that he be tried by an army court. Rains was
immediately transferred to Fort Humboldt, CaUfomia, by General Wool, who
recognized his incapacity and placed him where he at least would do no harm.
In 1861 Rains resgined and entered the Confederate service, where he served
during the four following years as a Brigadier General."
Splawn does not give quite so ignominious a view of the campaign as does
Prosch. He gives interesting details of the battle of Pahotacute or Pahquyti-
koot (Union Gap), the field of which extended from the vicinity of the present
Wapato to the mouth of the Ahtanum. Two monuments in Union Gap com-
memorate this battle, one erected by the Daughters of the American Revolution,
the other by Yakimas and friends.
The Indians seem to have been much demoralized by the howitzers, which
they considered a "bad tomanowas." They found, too, that the volunteers
were bold and enterprising and fully up to Indian methods of warfare. As a
result they withdrew in more or less confusion up the Ahtanum and across the
present site of Yakima and up the Naches. Kamiakin retreated to the Colum-
bia and crossed over at White Bluffs, while Owhi and others went through the
(16)
242 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Selah region to a point on the Columbia at the mouth of Crab Creek, where
they lost many horses swimming the swift current.
But though Splawn makes a larger aiifair of this campaign than Prosch
does, he says that many Indians have told him that only one Indian was killed
and that was at a little pond just above the old Chambers place, and that Cut-
Mouth John was the one who accomplished this solitary feat. The monument
inscription does not indicate that Cut-Mouth John killed that Indian. Sluiskin
is quoted as stating that the killing occurred just east of present Fair Grounds,.
on left side of road leading to the Moxee.
WALLA WALLA CAMPAIGN
With this inglorious end the whole command returned southward, going
into camp on November 17th, at a point in the Klickitat Valley, twenty-five
miles from The Dalles. Colonel Nesmith resigned and was succeeded by T. R.
Cornelius in command of the volunteers.
While the Yakima campaign was thus coming to a feeble and inconclusive
end, the second division of Oregon volunteers in cominand of Lieut. -Col. J.
K. Kelley was engaged in a campaign in Walla Walla against Peupeumoxmox,
the counterpart of Kamiakin in Yakima.
In the year 1855, December 7th, 8th, 9th and 10th, a series of decisive
operations took place in the Walla Walla Valley, beginning in the Touchet and
thence onward through what is now called Frenchtown, about ten miles from
Walla Walla, and culminating at a smooth hill near the present Blalock fruit
ranch, about four miles from the city. The Indians were defeated in this
series of battles and their chieftain Peupeumoxmox was slain. The manner
of his death was singular and has become one of the most bitterly disputed
subjects in our history. The old chief had surrendered under a flag of truce
while on the Touchet. He professed to wish to make peace, and had been made
a hostage by the soldiers while on their march up the Walla Walla.
When the battle broke out Peupeumoxmox with several other Indians was
under guard. In the height of the conflict the cry went up from some source :
"The Indians are trying to escape!" Others shouted "Shoot them!" Before
any one could hardly get a clear idea of what was happening, volleys of musketry
were heard, a mad scramble took place, and in a few seconds the old Walla
Walla chief with all the Indians except one (and he was a Nez Perce) were
dead. Some of the best and most reliable of the witnesses, as G. W. Miller
of Dayton, have testified that there was every indication that the Indians were
tryin gto break away and that the only resource of the guard was to fire.
Col. F. E. Gilbert, author of a pioneer history of Walla Walla, took the
position in his book that the affair was an atrocious murder, the work of
"ghouls rather than men." He was not present, but drew his conclusions from
the testimony.
The late Lewis McMorris, one of the most honored pioneers of Walla Walla,
was close by, though not an eye-witness of the beginnings of the struggle. He
related to the author a grotesque and horrible sequence of the death of Peupeu-
moxmox, which any one who knew him must accept as true, to the effect that
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 243
the body of the old chief was mutilated and that his ears were cut off and put
in a jar of brandy. The brandy disappeared. It became a common thing to
hear men about the camp bawling out, "Who drank the whisky off Peupeumox-
mox' ears?"
It was the common opinion that a certain lieutenant of the command had
done the ghastly deed. The ears were taken and tacked to a public building at
Salem.
Probably no one can confidently adjudge the right or wrong of the death
of the Walla Walla chief. But when we remember the atrocious murder of hi?
son, Elijah, in California and that there is no evidence that he sought imme-
diate revenge, and when we call up the testimony of David Longmire of the
great kindness and helpfulness of the chief to the immigrants of '53, we can
not quell the suspicion that perhaps the Indian was not the only sinner at the
time of the Walla Walla battle.
In March, 1856, a band of Klickitats swooped down upon the settlernentg
on the north side of the Columbia between The Dalles and Cascades and
nearly exterminated them. The same young lieutenant who had been in
Haller's Battle was in command of a blockhouse on the north side of the river
at the upper Cascades. This was Phil Sheridan, and the blockhouse has often
been referred to as the scene of "Sheridan's first battle." As a matter of fact
it was not strictly speaking his first. Old settlers claim that this Klickitat attack
was the most atrocious act of the whole war. The author has been assured that
when the volunteers reached the scene they found dead stock thrown into the
springs and wells, the bodies of men horribly mutilated and the naked bodies
of girls and women with stakes driven through. On the other hand old Chief
Stwires, in whom both white and red have confidence, assures us that the
Klickitats were always friendly. The only solution, if we accept the two testis
monies, is that the attacks were made by Yakimas or by broken bands of rene-
gades, and not by Klickitats at all.
Almost contemporary with the massacres at the Cascades were another en-
counter in the Yakima Valley. Colonel Nesmith had been succeeded, as will be
remembered, by Col. T. R. Cornelius. The new commander had been making
quite a campaign through the Palouse and then to White Bluffs on the Colum-
bia, whence he proceeded to a point opposite the entrance of the Yakima into
the Columbia. Crossing the river at that point, he went with five companies
of 241 men up the Yakima, reaching a point on the Satus not far from the pres-
ent town of Alfalfa. A report that a large band of Indians had been seen
induced the colonel to order a reconnaissance early the next morning. A small
party, of whom Capt. A. J. Hembree was one, volunteered for this service.
Captain Hembree seems to have been skeptical of the presence of the enemy
and exposed himself to attack, with the result that he was mortally wounded
by a volley from ambush. A scattering battle ensued. Kamiakin seems to
have been the Indian leader. Indeed he was apparently omnipresent and was
the soul of Indian warfare in all directions. In all that day, though there
seemed to be hot fighting. Captain Hembree was the only white man killed, and
only one was wounded. Several Indians were killed and wounded, though in
244 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
this instance, as usual, it was impossible to state the real Indian loss. Old
Indians have asserted to L. V. McWhorter that there was no fight at the time
of Hembree's death. Indian scouts on Satus Mountain killed him.
The death of Captain Hembree was deeply deplored, as he was a man
highly respected both in the volunteer service and in his home in Oregon.
VICTORY OF THE VOLUNTEERS
As the year 1856 went on it became clear that the growing strife between
Regulars and Volunteers, and between General Wool and the State authorities
of Oregon and Washington, would, if continued, go on to fatal weakness.
Nevertheless Governors Stevens and Curry kept urging on their backwoods
soldiers with untiring zeal. They were rewarded with a decisive victory. For
Col. B. F. Shaw in command of 160 officers and men of the Washington Vol-
unteers, leaving Walla Walla on July 14th, made a rapid march into the Grande
Ronde, where they had learned that the enemy was concentrating, and struck
an overwhelming blow.
This seemed to end organized resistance in that part of the field, although
atfer the usual fashion of Indian wars, the defeated enemy had fallen into
prowling bands even more inimical to settlement than' the organized forces.
With the successful battle on the Grande Ronde, it seemed that the work of
the volunteers had been accomplished and on October 3, 1856, they were dis-
banded.
Meanwhile a most acrimonious conflict raged between General Wool and
Governor Stevens. Historians as well as participants have seldom had a good
word for General Wool, and though some have maintained that he was a
brave and capable commander, his record in Oregon, as well as in the Civil
War later, seems to justify the conclusion that he was a stupid and opinionated
martinet, not capable of large and vital views. On the other hand the general
sentiment of settlers and volunteers was so entirely one-sided in all Indian
troubles as to render them. unable to do justice to one who, like Wool, was
inclined to favor the Indian side of the case.
Another offiicer, destined to play a very important part in this Indian War
was located in the Yakima Valley in 1856. This was Col. George Wright.
With eleven companies he was camped on the Naches in the Spring and Sum-
mer of the year. Some of Colonel Wright's correspondence of that period is
so interesting that we again use a chapter in Mr. Splawn's book containing
some of Wright's letters and other valuable matter.
"The Regulars and Volunteers did not work in harmony during the Indian
uprisings. Governor Stevens did not hesitate to say that the failure of the
Federal troops to cooperate with him unnecessarily lengthened the war. The
opposite point of view is expressed in a letter dated June 6, 1856, from General
Wool, commander of the Federal troops for the Pacific Coast in this part of
the country, to Assistant Adjutant-General Thomas at New York City, in which
he says: 'Colonel Wright is now in the Yakima country with eleven companies
well appointed and prepared, a force sufficient to crush these Indians at once,
if I can only bring them to battle. I shall pursue them and they must fight or
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 245
leave the country-. He has had several interviews with a number of the chiefs
who appear to want peace, and remarks, "I believe these Indians desire peace
and I must find out what outside influence is operating to keep them from com-
ing in." It is reported to me that Governor Stevens has ordered two hundred
Volunteers to the Yakima country, and that they arrived in the vicinity of
Colonel Wright's camp on the Natches River about 17th of May. If this should,
be true, I should consider it very unfortunate, for they are not wanted in that
region, as there is not a settler or white man in the Yakima country to pro-
tect or defend. Colonel Wright required no Volunteers to bring the Indians,
to terms and he so informed Governor Stevens. The latter, however, as I
believe, is determined if possible, to prevent the Regulars from terminating the
war. Nevertheless, I think it will be accomplished soon.' "
Colonel Wright, reporting to his superior officer. Assistant Adjutant-Gen-
eral D. R. Jones, at Benicia, California, under date of May 30th, states that
his camp is still on the Natches, and that the river is still impassable, the Indians-
crossing by swimming their horses.
"The salmon have not commenced running in any great numbers," he
writes, "and hence the Indians are compelled to go to the mountains, to seek
subsistence. It is reported that Ka-mi-akin has gone over to see some of the
Nez Perce chiefs who were engaged at this time. I believe most of these
chiefs desire peace, but some of them hold back in fear of the demands that may
be made upon them for their murders and thefts. They seem to think and say
they had strong reasons, for the outrages of the former and the injudicious and
intemperate threats of the latter, if true, as they say, I doubt not maddened
the Indians to murder them."
He notes that Colonel Steptoe joined him the day before with four com-
panies, his pack train returning immediately to Fort Dalles to bring up supplies.
Inclusive of detachments with pack trains, Colonel Wright states that he has-
about 500 men with him and that as soon as the river can be crossed, he will
advance to the Wenas and the fisheries and "if I do not bring the Indians tO'
terms, either by battle or desire for peace on their part, I shall endeavor tO'
harass them to such an extent that they will find it impossible to live in the
country. I am now throwing up a field work and gabion? of dimensions suffi-
cient to contain a company or two and all our stores. This depot will enable
us to move unencumbered by a large pack train."
Writing to General Jones, June 11th, still from the camp on the Natches,
Colonel Wright says: "On the 8th inst., a party of Indians numbering thirty-
five men with a chief at their head paid a visit to my camp. These Indians
live up in the moutains on the branches of the Natches River. They do not
consider themselves under the authority of any of the great chiefs of the
Yakima nation, and not being engaged in any hostilities, and evidenced a
friendly disposition. On the following day a party of fifteen Priest Rapids
Indians with a chief came to see me. The chief presented me a letter from
Father Pandosy. It appears that these Indians at the commencement of the
war were living on the Ahtanum near the mission, but fled to the north; the
chief has many testimonials of good feeling for the whites. I have also re-
246 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
ceived a visit from other delegations headed by smaller chiefs. They all want
peace for they doubtless see the probability, if the war continues, that their
own conntry will be invaded. On the evening of the 8th of June, two men
came to me from Chief Ow-hi, saying himself and other chiefs would come in
next day. These men brought in two horses belonging to the volunteer ex-
press recently sent over to the Sound. The men remained with us and on the
evening of the 9th, Ow-hi, Ka-mi-akin and Te-i-as encamped on the other side
of the Natches River. The chiefs all sent friendly messages, declaring they
would fight no more, and were all of one mind for peace. I answered them if
such was the case, they must come and see me. After a while Ow-hi and
Te-i-as came over and we had a long talk about the war and its origin. Ow-hi
related the whole story of the Walla Walla treaty, and concluded by saying that
the war commenced from that moment and the treaty was the cause of all the
deaths by fighting since that time.
"Ow-hi is a very intelligent man and speaks with great energy ; and is well
acquainted with his subject, and his words carry conviction of truth to his
hearers. I spoke to these chiefs and asked them what they had to gain by war
and answered them by enumerating the disasters which must befall them — their
warriors all killed, or driven from their country never to return; their women
and children starving to death. But if peace were restored, they could live
happily in their own country where the rivers and earth offered ample food for
their subsistence.
"I gave them to understand in no uncertain tones if they wanted peace they
must come to me and do all I required of them ; that I had a force large enough
to wipe them off the earth, but I pitied their condition and was willing to spare
thern, and help make them happy if they complied with my demands. I have
never seen Indians more delighted than these were. Five days were allowed
for them to assemble here; to surrender everything they had captured or stolen
frcum the white people and to comply with all my demands.
"Ka-mi-akin did not come over to see me, but remained during the con-
ference on the opposite bank. I sent word to Ka-mi-akin if he did not come
over and join in the treaty, I would pursue him with my troops, as no Indian
can remain a chief here in this land that does not make his peace with me.
Skloom and Show-a-way, two chiefs belonging here, have crossed the Columbia
River east of here. They are properly Palouse Indians, but their people are
incorporated in Ow-hi's band. Leschi was here. He came with Ow-hi and
Te-i-as, as he is a relative of those chiefs and believes he would prefer to re-
main with them than to return to the Sound."
Colonel Wright tells of completing a bridge "across the Natches after
great labor," and June 11th eight companies went over it and marched nine
miles to Wenas Creek. Leaving the Wenas at sunrise June 17th, they moved
north, crossing the deep canyon of Ump-tan-um, where the howitzer had to be
dismounted and packed on mules, reaching the Kittitas Valley the afternoon of
the 19th. Colonel Steptoe with three companies of the Ninth Infantry and a
mounted howitzer with artillerymen were left to occupy Fort Natches. Wright
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 247
spent several days in the Kittitas country, setting out July 4th up the "Swuck,"
the march next day being very difficult, "over steep mountains and obstructed
trails where were many fallen trees."
"On the 6th," he writes, "we came to Pish-Pish-aston, a small stream flow-
ing into Wenatchee River; arriving on that stream we were met by the Indians
■who had visited me at Natches and with them was Father Pandosy. They are
willing to go at once to the Toppenish, or any place I suggest, but express fear
as to their subsistence, which I believe is well taken, as they can procure food
much easier and surer when they are scattered. This is beyond question the
greatest fishery that I have seen. I have consented for those Indians to remain
here and fish, and later move into Yakima. Te-i-as, Ow-hi's brother and
father-in-law of Ka-mi-akin, is here.
"They followed the Wenatchee River to its junction with the Columbia, and
then returned in three days to Kittitas where he reports he has about 500 In-
dians, men, women and children, and a much larger number of horses and
•cattle.
"The Indians brought in," he notes, "about twenty horses that had been
-Stolen or captured from the Government. Left in my camp at Kittitas, Leschi,
Nelson and Kitsap."
Colonel Wright located Fort Simcoe in August, 1856, gathering all the
•captured Indians at this point. He says of the Yakima Valley: "The whole
country between the Cascade Mountains and Columbia River should be given
over to the Indians, as it is not necessary to the whites." He was a fine soldier,
but a poor agriculturist and not much of a prophet.
"Major Haller with one company of the Fourth Infantry and two of the
Ninth Infantry was camped in the Kittitas at this time, while Major Gamett
was at Simcoe with two companies erecting temporary quarters for twice that
number. Captain Dent was in charge of the construction of a military road
from The Dalles to Fort Simcoe, a distance of sixty-five miles." — Thus ends
the chapter from Mr. Splawn.
AFTERMATH OF THE WARS
After the battles in Grande Ronde and Walla Walla there was a period
of indecision and uncertainty in the eastern section. During the Fall and Winter
of 1855 and the beginning of 1856 the Indians were prosecuting their attacks
on settlers around Puget Sound.
On January 26, 1856, they attacked the little settlement at Seattle and at
first gained considerable success. But this was only transient. Failure was in-
evitable and soon came. One striking feature of this war was the prominent
part taken by Yakima warriors on both sides of the mountains. Owhi and
Qualchan seem to have gone to and fro with wonderful celerity. Kamiakin,
the generalissimo on all the "fronts," travelled with restless energy from
Yakima in all directions, organizing, encouraging, inciting, threatening, and
at critical points taking personal charge. He was in truth a remarkable Indian,
a veritable Hannibal on a small scale, and like the great Puni.c genius, his
248 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
downfall was largely the result of non-support and collapse of his own people.
While chivalrous for a wild man and not guilty of atrocities he had sworn un-
dying hatred to the white man.
Leschi and his brother Quiemuth were the chief leaders on the west side,
though Kanasket, Nelson, Stahi and Kitsap played important parts. Leschi
spent much time on the east side, and in fact this entire war might well be con-
sidered as engineered from Yakima. After the failure at Seattle the hostiles
scattered, and there was but one more encounter of any moment. This was at
Connell's Prairie on the 10th of March, and resulted in an "Appomattox" for
the Indians. The war on the west side was practically ended. Finding his cause
lost Leschi crossed the Cascade Mountains immediately after the battle of Con-
nell's Prairie and joined Kamiakin. But the cause of the Indians was lost
there also. Owhi was willing to surrender, and Leschi seeing the hopelessness
of their cause surrendered to Colonel Wright in his camp on the Naches on
June 8th. Colonel Wright in a report of June 11th, as quoted in Meeker's
"Tragedy of Leschi," gives a very interesting view of both Owhi and Leschi.
In a letter of June 25th from Ahtanum Wright says that he had left in his camp
on the Kittitas Nelson, Leschi, and Kitsap, with a small party of Nisquallies.
He says that Leschi was the recognized chief of all those people, including
those on the Naches, and that they desired to return lo the Sound, provided
they could do so with safety.
Into this bitterly disputed question of Leschi we cannot enter in detail.
Readers desirous of full statements of the case may find them in Hazard
Stevens' "Life of General Isaac I. Stevens," and in Ezra Meeker's "Tragedy of
Leschi." Other works of Washington writers deal with the subject at length,
and the reader will be bewildered rather than otherwise by the seemingly good
evidence for the conflicting claims as to the guilt of Leschi. At all events after
a most extraordinary series of legal and military moves and countermoves by
Governor Stevens seeking to convict, and others seeking to acquit, the sentence
of death was imposed and executed on February 19, 1858. Quiemuth, Leschi's
brother, had been murdered in November, 1856, by some one unknown who
entered the Governor's office where he was confined under guard. There must
certainly have been most vigilant guard to have allowed such a deed without
knowing anything about it. We follow the account here as given by Hazard
Stevens.
We have no desire to pass judgment on this vexed question of Leschi. As
a matter of historical interest, it may be said that the author has been told by
an Indian living near Tacoma, one of the most wealthy, reliable, and intelligent
Indians in the state, that the Indians have always regarded Leschi as a victim
of perjury and hatred, and as in reality one of the most just and merciful of
their race. As giving certain views of the case which the author does not re-
member to have seen in full in any one of the books, we are giving here a state-
ment by Lieut, (afterwards General) A. V. Kautz, well-known in military and
civil circles for many years in this state. This is from an interview in the
Tacoma Ledger of April 14, 1893.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 249"
THE DEATH OF LESCHI
General Kautz Throws Some Additional Light on His Execution.
There has been considerable discussion through the columns of the
"Ledger," from time to time, especially in the old settlers' stories, regarding
the execution of the Indian Chief Leschi. To throw additional light on the
matter of Leschi's guilt, if not to settle it beyond question, Gen. A. V. Kautz
yesterday gave a Ledger reporter a detailed account of his knowledge of the
affair. As a preamble to General Kautz's narration, it may be said that he con-
ducted the final campaign against Leschi and his followers, and after Leschi's
arrest had charge of him through both trials and until he was finally executed.
Said General Kautz:
"Leschi was the chief of the Nisquallies and the leader of the dissatisfied.
Indians of that tribe, in the uprising of '55 and '56. When I came back to the
Sound, after an absence of two years to southern Oregon, the war was half over..
This was in the latter part of February, '56. A day or two after my arrival at
Fort Steilacoom, we started out on a campaign against them. Our objective point
was Muckleshoot Prairie, which is now an Indian reservation, between White
and Cedar rivers. It was regarded as the heart of the country occupied by the
hostiles. The troops separated at the Puyallup blockhouse near where Sumner
is now. From there I marched on with that portion of the command which
went direct to Muckleshoot Prairie. Colonel Casey, who was in command of
the other detachment, went by the Lemon Prairie route (o Muckleshoot. My
command reached the prairie about the last day of February. On that day I
received a dispatch from Colonel Casey requesting me to send a detachment to
the crossing of White River to meet him. On the next day, the 1st of March,
I started out with a command of fifty men. When we arrived at the ford of
White River the Indians appeared in our rear and threatened an attack. I at
once sent a dispatch to Colonel Casey, telling him that the Indians had made their
appearance and that I would endeavor to hold the ford until he arrived. I made
disposition of the men on a bar of the river, among some driftwood, to await the
coming of the troops. The Indians worked their way around us on both sides
of the river, but were not able to make any impression on the troops lodged, as
they were, behind logs and driftwood.
"At three o'clock in the afternoon. Captain Keys arrived at the ford with
about 100 men. We then moved against the Indians and they retreated. Later,
as we were marching to Muckleshoot Prairie, they gave us a volley from a
bluff where they were stationed. They then disappeared and we went into camp.
One man had been killed and nine men, including myself, wounded. This was
the last fight the regulars had with the hostiles. Soon after this they scattered
and went off into the mountains and foothills. About the 1st of April I was
sent out with fifty men into the foothills east of Steilacoom. We returned after
an absence of two weeks with about thirty prisoners — men, women and children.
We treated the captives kindly and sent some of them out after the rest of the
hostiles. These brought all the other hostile Indians in except Leschi. He went
over into the Yakima and Klickitat country and remained there until Fall.
250 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
"Leschi had a wife who was around about the post at Fort Steilacoom and
to whom he was very much attached. He came to see her, and while there made
himself known to Doctor Tolmie of Fort Nisqually. The Doctor advised him to
surrender himself, which he did. He was then arraigned by the civil authori-
ties for the murder of Miller, Moses and others the year before, the Fall of
'55. He was tried at Steilacoom, soon after his arrest, and the jury failed to
agree. Subsequently he was tried again at Olympia and was there convicted
and sentenced to be hung.
"I had Leschi in charge during all the time of his confinement. He was
imprisoned in the guardhouse at Fort Steilacoom. I commanded the guard and
took him up to Olympia, and was obliged to be present during the trial. So I
was in a position to know all the facts and details of the case. He was con-
victed principally on the testimony of A. B. Robinson, who testified that while
coming toward Steilacoom from the Naches Pass he met Leschi and some of
his people on the edge of Connell's Prairie. Leschi was friendly, and did not
make any hostile demonstration. They separated after a short distance, so the
testimony ran, Leschi going into the woods and Robinson and his party con-
tinuing on the road. At a swamp, about one mile beyond their separation,
Leschi and others suddenly arose from ambush and fired upon them.
"This statement could not have been true because the party traveled on the
road and Leschi would have had to have traveled through the woods, besides
making a detour to have reached the swamp before Robinson and his party,
who were on horseback. Robinson claimed there was a shorter trail, which the
Indians took, which there was to another point of the prairie, but not to the
point where he averred Leschi fired on them. The shortest route was traveled
by Robinson and his party, and Leschi could not possibly have arrived at the
place mentioned before they did.
"Frank Clark was Leschi's counsel, and when I called his attention to this
point he recognized the fact that Robinson's testimony was not correct, but it
was too late to help Leschi at that time. However, he made an efifort to get the
sentence suspended, but the prejudice against Leschi among the people was
such that the governor would not take any action, and it became necessary to
carry out the sentence. The time was too short to communicate with Wash-
ington and have the president interfere, so Clark stayed the execution by getting
out a warrant for the arrest of the sheriflf before the LInited States commissioner
on an accusation of having sold liquor to Indians. His arrest followed, and he
was in prison at the time Leschi should have been hung. For this reason it
became necessarj' to resentence Leschi. It was the Spring of the year at that
time, and the court was not to meet again until December. The Legislature was
in session, however, and they passed a law, authorizing the court to convene.
Within a few days the court met and again sentenced him to be hung by the
sheriff of Thurston County. He was hung near Fort Steilacoom.
"On the date of the first hanging a great many people came down from
Olympia to witness the execution, and there was considerable indignation ex-
pressed by them when the sentence was not carried out. The military at Fort
Steilacoom were accused of being implicated in preventing the execution, and
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 251
indignation meetings were held there and at Olympia by the people, expressing
their disapprobation.
"Quiemuth, Leschi's brother, came in before Leschi and gave himself up
to the governor. Subsequently he was assassinated in the governor's office at
Olympia. This had the effect of keeping Leschi out longer than he would have
remained unexecuted under other circumstances."
There was one more act in the drama of this year 1856. On September
llth. Governor Stevens met another council of Indians at Walla Walla.
The influence of Kamiakin was so great that most of the chiefs, with the
exception of the friendly faction of Nez Perces, remained hostile. Stevens'
little force was attacked by a strong force led by Qualchan. Stevens was sup-
ported by the Regulars under Col. E. J. Steptoe and the Indians were repulsed
with loss and Stevens proceeded to The Dalles.
Thus the Indian War of 1855-56 closed with the virtual defeat of the great
schemes of Kamiakin and his followers.
But now there followed a most singular outcome. General Wool seems
to have predetermined that the country east of the Cascades should not come
into possession of the Whites. His conception of the country is well shown by
his approval of a memoir of Capt. T. J. Cram, a United States engineer who
professed to be thoroughly familiar with the Northwest. We quote here from
T. W. Prosch some extracts from Captain Cram's views (_ which were practi-
cally Wool's) with his own comments.
"The Captain covered all the ground in Washington and Oregon and all
the subjects. He was unfavorably impressed with both country and people.
Beyond a few Regular army officers and their doings nothing was very good.
In view of what has since been done in these two states, what they are now, and
what they are going to be and do, he could be glad, if alive, to suppress by fire
every copy of his Memoir of one hundred and twenty-three printed pages.
He said, for instance, that "there never will be anything in the interior of this
forbidding stretch of country to induce the movement of such a force into the
interior should a reasonable show of defense be exhibited by a field force.' It
was impossible 'to defend the mouth of the Columbia River with any known
practical system of fixed batteries.' Besides, fortifications were not really
necessary, as the river 'mouth is always blocked by a mass of oscillating sand,'
and 'at high tide a vessel drawing eighteen feet can seldom pass the bar.' So
also on Puget Sound land fortifications would be useless, steam floating bat-
teries necessarily being the weapons there. 'Sea steamers of ten feet draft,'
he said, 'ascend the river to the city of Portland.' Willamette Valley would
sustain a population of one hundred and fifty thousand. Portland would con-
tinue to be the commercial center of that district, unless it were found that
sea steamers could 'at all times ascend to the foot of the Cascades.' The vast
region drained by the Columbia River was one which impressed the observer
as incapable of sustaining a flourishing civilization. This, said he, 'is the
general view to be taken of Oregon from the Pacific to the summit of the
Rocky Mountain Range, a region only fit, as a general rule, for the occupancy
of the nomadic tribes who now roam over it, and who should be allowed peace-
252 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
fully to remain in its possession.' Speaking more particularly of Washington;
this sagacious military engineer, historian, and author declared that 'the whole
Yakima country should be left to the quiet possession of the Yakima and
Klickitat Indians.' Also this: 'In the acquisition of this strip of territory it is
certainly not to be denied by any sensible man who has examined it carefully
that the United States realized from Great Britian but very little that is at all
valuable or useful to civilized man. For the Indians, but for the presence of
the Whites, it would ever have remained well adapted.' The document was
replete with utterances of a disparaging, belittling, slanderous, false and absurd
character, concerning the people, officials, soil, timber, waters and future possi-
bilities, of the Oregon countrj' given out with high military approval, published
by the Government, circulated broadcast, accepted in many places as fair and
right, and with no redress to the country and people maligned, except that
afforded in the lapse of time, long time, and the unconcern and forgetfulness
of the great general public. Fortunately all the army officers were not like
Wool and Cram. Many of them saw things here under more pleasant lights,
and they bore to the end of their lives recollections of grateful character con-
cerning the days they spent and the people they met in Oregon and Washing-
ton territories."
With such a conception of the situation and the country the reader may not
be surprised to learn that in October Wood issued orders to Colonel Wright
and Colonel Steptoe (the latter commanding at Walla Walla), that Whites^
with the exception of missionaries and Hudson's Bay Company employes,
should be forbidden to enter the country east of the Cascade Mountains. In
other words, the war now having been won, mainly by the Volunteer forces,.
General Wool proposed to surrender the entire country to the defeated party
and deny the settlers and Volunteers the fruits of their hard-won victory.
Governor Stevens protested vigorously against so imbecile an outcome. He
pointed out the fact that while the Catholic missionaries had beneficent aims
they were attempting an impossible task and their influence in the upper country
had "latterly been most baneful and pernicious." He further pointed out that
the whole interest of the Hudson's Bay Company was necessarily to join with
the Indians in causing the abandonment of the country.
A NEW ORDER OF THINGS
During the year 1857 the condition of quasi-peace continued, Indians in;
possession, settlers excluded, and Regulars inactive at the forts.
But the War Department and the Government at Washington had analyzed
the situation with the result that Wool's policy was tried and found wanting.
He was removed and Gen. N. S. Clarke was appointed in his stead.
The new commander reversed the former policy, the gates were thrown
open, and the impatient army of explorers, prospectors, cattlemen, and settlers
began to pour in. This state of affairs precipitated the campaigns of 1858.
Colonel Wright at Vancouver and Colonel Steptoe at Walla Walla, though
having formerly adhered to Wool's policy, had experienced a change of heart.
Kamiakin meanwhile was reorganizing in preparation of renewed hostilities.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 253
Going to the Spokane and Couer d' Alene tribes he urged that the recent peace
between Colonel Wright and certain Indians was not binding on them and that
they should keep the country closed to Whites.
As a result, probably, of these machinations on Kamiakin's part, miners
on the way to Colville were waylaid and murdered. Also a large amount of
stock was driven from Fort Walla Walla.
steptoe's defeat
As a result Colonel Steptoe entered upon his disastrous expedition against
the Colvilles. Although Steptoe seems to have been an accomplished officer, he
appears to have had no conception of the power of these Indians or of the gen-
•eral ability of their commanders. He had a small force, only 136 mounted
dragoons, besides packers and officers. The fatal mistake was made, however,
by leaving out a large part of the ammunition for the sake of lightening the
packs! This, as the author has been told by those present at the time, was
done by an inebriated quartermaster.
Meanwhile the Indians were marshalling their forces under the leadership
of the most capable and valorous chieftains. This was destined to be their
j^reatest victory, but their last. This was emphattcally -Kamiakin's battle. The
time was May 18th and the place the present location of Rosalia, though like
most Indian battlefields it was strung out over a number of miles. The com-
mand suffered severely and among the lost were the gallant Gaston and Taylor,
whose heroic defense in command of the rear guard saved the retreating com-
mand from utter destruction. Those two brave men are said to have been
singled out for death by Kamiakin's special orders when he saw their efficiency
in the rear guard action. The broken command halted with nightfall near the
foot of Steptoe Butte, known to the Indians as Tehotami (and it is a great
pity that the name was changed). Kamiakin made every eflfort to induce his
Indians to be ready for an instant attack, for he realized that the Whites would
attempt a night retreat. But sustained effort is irksome to an Indian, and the
warriors wanted to lie down and rest. Their chance for a sweeping victory
-was gone, never to return. For Timothy, the Nez Perce chief, was with Step-
toe and he knew a trail down a canyon on Tehotami. Taking advantage of a
■dark and drizzly night he led the command out of its deadly position, and by
morning light they were half way to Snake River.
A number were lost on the way, but the main command, with the aid of
Timothy and his squaws, got safely across Snake River, then running high
with the Spring flood. Had it not been for Timothy the towering height of
Tehotami would without doubt have witnessed a Custer massacre. As it was
it was the greatest Indian victory in the Northwest.
END OF THE WAR
When Steptoe's broken army reached Walla Walla and the crestfallen
commander reported the results to Colonel Wright the latter perceived that
the time for "fooling" had passed, and that they must now act with promptness
and energy sufficient to make an end of the whole matter. Accordingly Wright
254 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
organized two expeditions. One under command of Maj. R. S. Gamett, com-
mandant at Fort Simcoe, made an expedition through the Yakima Valley, as a
result of which, though with no definite encounters, the strength of the Indians
was dissipated and several alleged murderers captured and hung. Lieut. J. K.
Allen was killed upon the Teanaway, much lamented for his admirable quali-
ties. One point of special note is that in Garnett's command was Lieutenant
Cook, later a general in the Civil war, and still later one of the most distin-
guished Indian fighters in eastern Oregon, Arizona, and Montana.
From the upper Yakima Garnett went to the Okanogan. A few days after
Garnett started on his Yakima expedition, Wright set forth for Spokane with
a well equipped and determined force. At the battle of Four Lakes on Sep-
tember 1st, the Indians were routed. On September 9th, at a point a few
miles east of the present city of Spokane Wright captured 800 horses, a con-
siderable part of the war supply of the Indians.
Realizing that the loss of these horses would paralyze further operations
by the Indians, Wright ordered the wholesale destruction of the horses. He
was correct. The natives were now powerless and made an abject surrender.
From this decisive victory at Spokane Wright went westward. Owhi,
having learned of the collapse of the Spokane allies, determined to throw him-
self upon the mercy of the conquerors. Wright was then camped at the mouth
of Hangman Creek in the present city of Spokane. Mr. Splawn gives a spir-
ited account of the events which followed. Qualchan and Owhi both perished
as a result. Kamiakin, finding that all was lost, went to British Columbia, and
thence made his way to the country of the Crows. In 1861 he appeared unher-
alded at the Coeur d' Alene Mission. Subsequently he settled at Rock Lake,
and there the remainder of his life was spent. Mr. Splawn gives a graphic ac-
count of seeing the Yakima Hannibal in 1865. He lived fifteen years longer,
thus reaching a good old age.
Almost all the great chiefs who participated in thai series of wars died
or were killed during the period. Three of the most notable, however, outlived
their comrades many years. These were Kamiakin, Sulktalthscosum (Moses),
and Halhaltlossot (Lawyer).
With the announcement by General Clarke that the long struggle was
over, the long arrested tide of population poured in. Mines were opened,
droves of cattle were driven in, towns began to bud and blossom, and all the
phenomena of state building, so familiar to successive generations of Ameri-
cans, began at the strategic points of the Columbia Basin.
For twenty years peace was the accepted order in the Inland Empire, and
no thought of Indian warfare disturbed the minds of the builders of the new
communities. Suddenly like a clap out of a clear sky came the Nez Perce War.
NEZ PERCE WAR IN THE WALLOWA IN 1877
This was the aftermath of conditions growing out of understandings which
the Joseph branch of the Nez Perces seemed to have formed at the Walla Walla
treaty in 1855. We have already spoken of the formation of those impressions.
The hero of this Wallowa War was Young Joseph, Hallakallakeen (Eagle
Wing). General Howard pays a great tribute to the skill and nobility of his
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 25-5
foe. Defeat was inevitable and with it warfare ceased so far as any of the
great tribes of well known Indians were concerned. But the very next year
came the Bannock War, the scene of which was mainly Umatilla County in
Oregon and the region of the Columbia River, north. This war brought another
echo to the Yakima Valley, then just in the first beginnings of development.
Mr. Splawn gives a very clear account of the genesis of this war in the mind
of ButYalo Horn, the Bannock chief, upon whose untimely (from the Indian
viewpoint) death the leadership fell to Eagan of the Piutes. He proved to be
an incapable leader and the whole great undertaking fizzled out within a few
months. It produced intense excitement, especially at Pendleton. At the
moment of greatest apparent force the Indians undertook to cross the Columbia
at Blalock Island, then called Long Island.
A steamboat patrolling the river fired on them and kept the majority from
crossing. A considerable number, however, effected the crossing of the river
and among them some of the worst desperadoes in the whole Indian country.
Going north across what is now known as the Horse Heaven country, this band
crossed the Yakima River near the site of Prosser and struck across the Rattle-
snake hills to the northward. On their way they perpetrated the atrocious-
Perkins murder.
THE PERKINS MURDER
This was one of the crudest events in all the long and cruel history of
Indian warfare. It produced a profound horror in the minds of people living
in Yakima at the time, for both Mr. Perkins and his wife (Blanche Bunting)
were well known and greatly loved by the people of pioneer Yakima. They
were murdered at a point called Rattlesnake Springs without the slightest prov-
ocation and in a manner that illustrated those traits of Indian character which:
seem to justify the intense hatred felt by frontiersmen for the "red devils.""
This murder occurred on July 9, 1878.
In an article by Mrs. Elizabeth Ann Coone in the "Washington Historical
Quarterly" for January, 1917, there is a statement that Mr. and Mrs. Perkins
were living in the Coone house at Ringold bar and that they had been to Yakima
City and were on their return. It appears, however, from other statements that
they were on the way to Yakima when they met their distressing fate.
In Chapter XXXIX of Mr. Splawn's book there is a detailed account of
this atrocity and of numerous encounters with the same band of Indians. We
have space to refer to only two events connected with it. One is the question
of the complicity of Moses, the big chief of the tribes from Wenatsha and up
the Columbia from that point. Many held and still believe that Moses was the
animating agency in that whole series of troubles, after the crossing of the
Columbia. There was one very singular event in connection with Moses. The
agent at Fort Simcoe at the time was James H. Wilbur, a truly great man. True
to his usual methods, Agent Wilbur desired to get and to exhibit the facts first
hand and hence he requested Moses to go to the fort and see him.
Rather strange to say, the chief complied with the request. As a result
both the agent and the chief went to Yakima City and held a council with the
citizens.
2S6 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Moses disclaimed all complicity in the crime or in shielding or conceaHng
.the murderers. He declared that he believed the murderers were hiding in the
.lava beds of Crab Creek, and he offered to assist in locating them. As a result,
a force of twenty-two volunteers, most of them well-known in Yakima, with
William Splawn as captain, together with ten Indian policemen detailed by
J\gent Wilbur and Head Chief Eneas, set forth to chase down the miscreants.
The singular details of their experience and the enigmatical conduct of Moses,
as detailed by Mr. Splawn, transcend our limits and we must refer our readers
to Mr. Splawn's book. Mr. Splawn was in a position to know the facts, as well
as any one could, and his final judgment was that Moses was not guilty of any
• connection with the crime or of shielding the criminals.
The murderers, or some of them, were captured at various times and duly
tried and five were found guilty and sentenced to be hung. Mr. Splawn was
interpreter at the trial and says that they confessed the murder. By a most
•extraordinary succession of escapes, the sentence was deferred. There were
three escapes, a most extraordinary commentary on the guards or guardhouses
•of Yakima City at that time. As a result two only of the murderers expiated
their crime on the gallows. Two were killed in attempting to escape. The fifth
is said to have been killed two years later by a brother of Mrs. Perkins. There
is some evidence that it was not the Indian wanted, but a woman, his sister,
who received the bullet. This statement is that she was severely wounded but
a-ecovered.
A magazine article by Mrs. Louise Heiler Cary gives a vivid view of the
Perkins murder.
STORY OF EARLY DAYS
_A. TALE OF THE TERRIBLE TIMES OF LONG AGO, SHOWJNG CHIEF MOSES
TRUE LIGHT
Mrs. Louise Heiler Cary
Just twenty years ago the peacefuL Yakima Valley was thrown into a state
•of uneasiness by rumors of Indian depredations and murders committed all
around us. One day in the early Spring of 1878 the mail carrier brought word
to the little town of Yakima that the hostile Indians were trying to cross the
'Columbia River over to the Yakima side. This greatly increased the anxiety,
for it was generally believed that if they succeeded the little handful of settlers
would be wiped out.
At that time our only mail service was a weekly stage which ran between
"Yakima and Umatilla. There was no railway, no telegraph line, absolutely no
means of communicating with the outside world except by the weekly stage,
whose driver, L. H. Adkins, literally took his life in his hard when he made the
trip.
In July the soldiers commanded by Gen. O. O. Howard were waging some
fierce battles at Umatilla. The general, anticipating the desires of the Indians
to cross the Columbia and raid the Yakima countr}% ordered patrol boats
manned by well armed soldiers to be placed on the river at points where the
BILLIE STAHAT, SUB-CHIEF AND COUXCILMAN
From McWhorter's "The Crime AKaiiist the Yakimas"
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 257
Indians would cross, with orders to fire on any hostiles seen crossing the river.
The Indians, not knowing the mission of the boats, soon made an attempt to
cross in full view. They were promptly fired upon, and several were killed;
only a few were successful in landing on the Yakima side and they left at once
for Priest Rapids. At Rattlesnake Springs, twenty-five miles from Yakima, a
general camping place for all stock men, they found Lorenzo Perkins and wife,
who had stopped there for their noonday lunch on their v/ay to Yakima. They
had heard of the Indian troubles along the Columbia, and concluded it would
be safer for them among friends than at their home at White Bluf?s.
Mr. Perkins was a brother of Mrs. L. J. May, well known in Yakima, and
Mrs. Perkins was the daughter of Mrs. Cheney, who resides in Moxee. The
savages, being greatly angered by having been fired upon from the boats that
morning, were ready to take revenge by torturing any white person they might
meet. Mr. and Mrs. Perkins noticed the strange actions of the Indians, became
alarmed, and began preparations at once for leaving camp. The Indians, how-
ever, had no intention of permitting this, and no sooner had they mounted their
horses than the firing commenced.
Mr. Perkins was first to fall from his horse. His v/ife by this time was
riding at full speed ; the savages followed in hot pursuit, firing incessantly. She,
too, soon fell, wounded, and begged piteously for them to spare her life, but
her cries were unheeded. They were both dragged a short distance and there
made fast to the ground by huge stones thrown upon them until they were
buried beneath the mass. Mrs. Perkins was yet alive, but death soon delivered
her from this awful torture.
Friends grew very anxious when they did not arrive at the appointed time,
and a searching party of five men, headed by A. J. Chambers, a cousin of Mrs.
Perkins, was sent to ascertain their whereabouts. It was nine days before their
bodies were recovered and brought to Yakima City for burial. Excitement
ran high. Every one was aroused. A meeting was hurriedly called to take
some active steps for the protection of the settlers. Everj* gun was brightened
up and every man was buying ammunition. One night, at 12 o'clock, there was
a general stampede caused by the appearance of Thomas Kelley, who rode
rapidly into town, saying that "the Indians had broke out sure." Excited men
ran in every direction, some preparing to fight, others getting their families into
safer quarters. The Guilland hotel was considered the safest place, and women
and children were packed in there like bees in a hive. Men were placed on
guard at different places on the outskirts of town. Armed men paraded the
streets all night, and some of the braver women buckled on revolvers and
walked at the side of their husbands.
The Indians had stolen a number of horses from settlers along the Wenas
and other streams. Two young men by the name of Burbank, while out hunt-
ing stock in the Selah Valley, saw at a distance what appeared to be their
horses. On approaching they found that the horses v/ere being herded by
Indians. The savages started in pursuit of the men, firing rapidly; the men
quickly retreated, returning the firing over their shoulders until they reached
the settlement in safety.
(17)
258 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
The settlers by this time were so terrified that they left their homes and
fled to places of safety, leaving their fields of ripe grain uncut and turning the
stock into gardens and fields to do the harvesting.
Stockades were made in different parts of the settlement for the safety of
families. On the Ahtanum, near the residence now owned by Cyrus Walker, a
large embankment was thrown up made of sods piled several feet high, with a
deep trench on the outside. This was for the protection of all the residents
of the valley.
The government soon came to the rescue by placing cavalry troops at Fort
Simcoe and by sending needle guns to Yakima City. This caused a feeling of
relief. All breathed easier; and when news came that the Indians had sur-
rendered to General Howard, where they were fighting along the Columbia
River, there was great rejoicing.
In December of the same year. Father Wilbur, who was at that time
Indian agent at Fort Simcoe, sent an invitation to Chief Moses to meet him in
Yakima City for the purpose of having a friendly council. Moses accepted the
invitation and was present at the appointed time. The Centennial hall was
packed with eager spectators to hear what the dreaded chief would have to say.
Father Wilbur made the opening address, in which he said that we all are
children of the Great Father, all of one family, and that it is wrong for one
man to take the life of another. In this way he approached the subject of the
murder of the Perkins family. Moses was chief over the Indians who had
committed the deed, and it was well known that he was in sympathy with the
hostiles. Moses believed that the little band of which he was chief and the
Whites and Indians of the Yakima Valley composed the nation and that the
world extended just beyond the Columbia River. True, he had heard of a
Washington tyee, president of the United States, but Moses considered him an
insignificant being compared with himself.
On this occasion Moses was a striking picture. He was dressed in a long
coat, Prince Albert style, black trousers, buckskin leggings, wore a white hand-
kerchief about his neck and a wide-brimmed Spanish hat. When called upon
to make a speech, he slowly stepped forward. The audience waited, almosi
breathless. After standing perfectly quiet for some time, he bent forward with
great deliberation, and blew a mighty bugle blast with his nasal appendage,
making use of his leggings for a handkerchief. Then straightening himself to
his fullest height, he pompously said, "Nika Moses" (I am Moses). After
dwelling upon his own greatness, he finally consented to assist in capturing the
murderers. He proposed that the Whites should join him on the Columbia
twenty-five miles from Yakima, and promised to go with them to the spot where
the murderers were camped. His plan was agreed to, and sixteen men, with
seventeen Indian police, were prepared for the expedition. They soon set out,
with special orders from the sheriflf, and with W. L. Splawn as captain.
When they arrived at the point designated, they discovered that Moses was
a traitor. He was nowhere to be seen. They crossed the river and started in
the directon of Crab Creek, and were soon startled by the approach of the
chief with sixty braves in war paint. The White heroes stood finn as statues.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 259
waiting orders from their commander. Captain Splawn railed to Moses, asking
him what he meant by meeting them in this manner. Moses replied that his talk
in Yakima was cultus (no good), and that he had no intention of fulfilling his
agreement. After exchanging a few words, all dispersed without bloodshed.
Captain Splawn immediately dispatched a courier to Yakima for assistance.
Sixty volunteers, under Capt. James Simmons, immediately left for the scene,
with orders to arrest Moses and bring him to Yakima. They were also rein-
forced by Dors Schnebly and party from Ellensburg. They were not long in
capturing the chief and nine warriors. These they handcuffed and tied.
Those who saw Moses at this time do not look upon him as a brave man
but think him very much of a coward. When he saw the handcuffs he wept
like a baby.
He was told that he would be held a prisoner until his men produced the
murderers as he had agreed, and if they failed to do that his own life would
pay the penalty. Moses agreed that if they would liberate three of his men
they should bring in the murderers. The three were liberated and, after re-
ceiving orders from their chief, disappeared. The other prisoners, including
Moses, were taken to Yakima and placed in jail. Captain Splawn .continued
to search for the guilty parties, who were finally captured, though not without
resistance. The struggle was a fierce one, other Indians coming upon them
and trying to rescue the prisoners. One man, by the name of Rozell, was shot
through the arm and badly wounded ; others came near losing their lives. The
murderers were placed in jail, after which Moses was liberated.
Several weeks later the town was thrown into a state of excitement by the
rapid firing of guns in the vicinity of the jail, and it was learned that the mur-
derers had broken jail, had attempted to kill W. Z. York, the jailer, and, having
left him for dead, were rapidly disappearing, when overtaken by the sherifif
and deputies. The savages fought like tigers, preferring to die by the bullet
rather than by the rope.
One Indian was killed and two were wounded, one of them dying soon
after. Two others were hanged in the courthouse yard at Yakima City.
Later Moses was given a free ride over the Northern Pacific Railway to
Washington that he might see how large the world really is ; also, that he might
see the President and confer with other officials in regard to a reservation.
The old chief evidently thinks that at that interview he took the President into
partnership, for he now boasts that "Me and the President keep the peace."
Of late years, when Chief Moses visits North Yakima, he is treated as a
distinguished guest, and even received in the club rooms.
Surely, our readers cannot wonder that to the old settlers who suiifered so
much from his influence, this seems inappropriate. We try to exercise Chris-
tian forgiveness, but we remember him too well as a high-handed murderer to
think of him now as a hero.
It is of interest to add in connection with the final scenes of the Perkins
murder and the expiation for the crime by the murderers that we are in-
260 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
formed by Mrs. John B. Davidson of Ellensburg, one of the most accurate stu-
dents of history in the Valley, that the published accounts are incorrect in the
name of the sheriff who brought the murderers to death. F. D. Schnebly was
the sheriff in Yakima at that time.
The connection of Moses with these events as well as the war twenty-two
years before has never been fully explained or understood. In the general
judgment of pioneers he was a "bad Injun" and deserving of more severe treat-
ment than some of those who received the limit, as Leschi and Owhi.
At any rate Moses "got away with it," and if he were a criminal escaped
the due penalty, and soon after the Perkins murder went to Washington City,
and as a result of his conference with the Government received for his people
the valuable Colville Reservation on the west side of the Okanogan River.
With this stage of our story the Indian wars may be said to end.
Although this chapter is already unduly lojig, this is the suitable place to
include, as a document of permanent interest and value to Yakima readers, the
order setting aside the Yakima Reservation and the boundaries of that great
body of land.
TREATY WITH THE Y.XKIMAS, 1855
June 9, 1855.
12 Stat. 951.
Ratified Mar. 8, 1859.
Proclaimed Apr. 18.
Articles of agreement and convention made and concluded at the treaty-
ground, Camp Stevens, Walla Walla Valley, this ninth day of June, in the year
one thousand eight hundred and fifty-five, by and between Isaac I. Stevens,
governor and superintendent of Indian aiifairs, for the Territory of Washing-
ton, on the part of the United States, and the undersigned head chiefs, chiefs,
head-men, and delegates of the Yakama, Palouse, Pisquouse, Wenatshapam,
Klitkatat, Klinquit, Kow-was-say-ee, Li-ay-was, Skin-pah, Wish-ham, Shyiks,
Ochechotes, Kah-milt-pah, and Se-ap-cat, confederated tribes, and bands of
Indians, occupying lands hereinafter bounded and described and lying in Wash-
ington Territory, who for the purposes of this treaty are to be considered as
one nation, under the name of "Yakama" with Kamaiakun as tis head chief,
on behalf of and acting for said tribes and bands, and being duly authorized
thereto by them.
Article 1. The aforesaid confederated tribes and bands of Indians hereby
cede, relinquish, and convey to the United States all their right, title, and inter-
est in and to the lands and country occupied and claimed by them, and bounded
and described as follows, to wit : Boundaries : Commencing at Mount Ranier,
thence northerly along the main ridge of the Cascade Alountains to the point
wliere the northern tributaries of Lake Che-Ian and the =outhern tributaries of
the Methow River have their rise ; thence southeasterly on the divide between
the waters of Lake Che-Ian and the Methow River to the Columbia River;
thence, crossing the Columbia on a true east course, to a point whose longitude
is one hundred and nineteen degrees and ten minutes (119° 10'), which two
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 261
latter lines separate the above confederated tribes and bands from the Oakina-
kane tribe of Indians; thence in a true south course to the forty-seventh
(47 deg.) parallel of latitude; thence east on said parallel to the main Palouse
River, which two latter lines of boundary separate the above confederated
tribes and bands from the Spokanes; thence down the Palouse River to its
junction with the Mohhah-ne-she, or southern tributary of the same; thence in
a southeasterly direction, to the Snake River, at the mouth of the Tucannon
River, separating the above confederated tribes from the Nez Perce tribe of
Indians; thence down the Snake River to its junction with the Columbia River;
thence up the Columbia River to the "White Banks" below the Priest's Rapids ;
thence westerly to a lake called "Le Lac," thence southerly to a point on the
Yakima River called Toh-mah-luke ; thence, in a southwesterly direction, to the
Columbia River, at the western extremity of the "Big Island," between the
mouths of the Umatilla River and Butler Creek ; all which latter boundaries
separate the above confederated tribes and bands from the Walla Walla, Cayuse,
and Umatilla tribes and bands of Indians; thence down the Columbia River to
midway between the mouths of White Salmon and Wind rivers ; thence along
the divide between said rivers to the main ridge of the Cascade Mountains ;
and thence along said ridge to the place of beginning.
Article 2. There is, however, reserved, from the lands above ceded for
the use and occupation of the aforesaid confederated tribes and bands of
Indians, the tract of land included within the following boundaries, to wit:
Commencing on the Yakama River, at the mouth of the Attah-nam River;
thence westerly along said Attah-nam River to the Forks : thence along the
southern tributary to the Cascade Mountains ; thence southerly along the main
ridge of said mountains, passing south and east of Mount Adams, to the spur
whence flow the waters of the Klickatat and Pisco rivers; thence down said
spur to the divide between the waters of said rivers ; thence along said divide
to the divide separating the waters of the Satass River from those flowing into
the Columbia River; thence along said divide to the main Yakama, eight miles
below the mouth of the Satass River ; and thence up the Yakama River to the
place of beginning.
All which tract shall be set apart and, so far as necessary, surveyed and
marked out, for the exclusive use and benefit of said confederated tribes and
bands of Indians, as an Indian reservation; nor shall any white man, excepting
those in the employment of the Indian Department, be permitted to reside upon
the said reservation without permission of the tribe and the superintendent and
agent. And the said confederated tribes and bands agree to remove to, and
settle upon, the same, within one year after the ratification of this treaty. In
the meantime it shall be lawful for them to reside upon any ground not in the
actual claim and occupation of citizens of the United States; and upon any
ground claimed or occupied, if with the permission of the owner or claimant.
Guaranteeing, however, the right to all citizens of the United States to
enter upon and occupy as settlers any lands not actually occupied and culti-
vated by said Indians at this time, and not included in the reservation above
named.
262 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
And provided, That any substantial improvements heretofore made by any
Indian, such as fields enclosed and cultivated, and houses erected upon the lands
hereby ceded and which he may be compelled to abandon in consequence of this
treaty, shall be valued, under the direction of the President of the United
States, and payment made therefor in money; or improvements of an equal
value made for said Indian upon the reser\'ation. And no Indian will be re-
quired to abandon the improvements aforesaid, now occupied by him, until
their value in money, or improvements of an equal value shall be furnished him
as aforesaid.
Article 3. And provided. That, if necessary for the public convenience,
roads may be run through the said reservation; and on the other hand, the
right of way, with free access from the same to the nearest public highway, is
secured to them; as also the right, in common with citizens of the United
States, to travel upon all public highways.
The exclusive right of taking fish in all the streams, where running
through or bordering said reservation, is further secured to said confederated
tribes and bands of Indians, as also the right of taking fish at all usual and
accustomed places, in common with the citizens of the Territory, and of erect-
ing temporary buildings for curing them ; together with the privilege of hunt-
ing, gathering roots and berries, and pasturing their horses and cattle upon
open and unclaimed land.
Article 4. In consideration of the above cession, the United States agree
to pay to the said confederated tribes and bands of Indians, in addition to the
goods and provisions distributed to them at the time of signing this treaty, the
sum of two hundred thousand dollars, in the following m.anner, that is to say:
Sixty thousand dollars, to be expended under the direction of the President
of the United States, the first year after the ratification of this treaty, in pro-
viding for their removal to the reservation, breaking up and fencing farms,
building houses for them, supplying them with provisions and a suitable out-
fit, and for such other objects as he may deem necessary, and the remainder
in annuities, as follows : For the first five years after the ratification of the
treaty, ten thousand dollars each year, commencing September first, 1856: for
the next five years, eight thousand dollars each year ; and for the next five
years, six thousand dollars per year; and for the next five years, four thousand
dollars per year.
All which sums of money shall be applied to the use and benefit of said
Indians, under the direction of the President of the United States, who may
from time to time determine, at his discretion, upon what beneficial objects
to expend the same for tliem. And the superintendent of Indian affairs, or
other proper officer, shall each year inform the President of the wishes of the
Indians in relation thereto.
Article 5. The United States further agree to establish at suitable points
within said reservation, within one year after the ratification hereof, two
schools, erecting the necessary buildings, keeping them in repair, and providing
them with furniture, books and stationery, one of which shall be an agricultural
and industrial school, to be located at the agency, and to be free to the children
of the said confederated tribes and bands of Indians, and to employ one super-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 263
intendent of teaching and two teachers; to build two blacksmiths' shops, to one
of which shall be attached a tin-shop, and to the other a gunsmith's shop,
one carpenter's shop, one wagon and plough-maker's shop, and to keep the
same in repair and furnished with the necessary tools; to employ one super-
intendent of farming and two farmers, two blacksmiths, one tinner, one gun-
smith, one carpenter, one wagon and plough maker, for the instruction of the
Indians in trades and to assist them in the same; to erect one saw-mill and one
flouring-mill, keeping the same in repair and furnished with the necessary tools
and fixtures ; to erect a hospital, keeping the same in repair and provided with
the necessary medicines and furniture, and to employ a physician; and to erect,
keep in repair, and provided with the necessary furniture, the building re-
quired for the accommodation of the said employes. The said buildings and
establishments to be maintained and kept in repair as aforesaid, and the em-
ployes to be kept in service for the period of twenty years.
And in view of the fact that the head chief of the said confederated tribes
and bands of Indians is expected, and will be called upon to perform many
services of a public character, occupying much of his time, the United States
further agree to pay to the said confederated tribes and bands of Indians five
hundred dollars per year, for the term of twenty years after the ratification
hereof, as a salary for such person as the said confederated tribes and bands
of Indians may select to be their head chief, to build for him at a suitable
point on the reservation a comfortable house, and properly furnish the same,
and to plough and fence ten acres of land. The said salary to be paid to, and
the said house to be occupied by, such head chief so long as he may continue
to hold that office.
And it is distinctly understood and agreed that at the time of the conclu-
sion of this treaty Kamaiakun is the duly elected and authorized head chief of
the confederated tribes and bands aforesaid, styled the Yakama Nation, and is
recognized as such by them and by the commissioners on Ihe part of the United
States holding this treaty ; and all the expenditures and expenses contemplated
in this article of this treaty shall be defrayed by the United States, and shall not
be deducted from the annuities agreed to be paid to said confederated tribes and
bands of Indians. Nor shall the cost of transporting the goods for the annuity
payments be a charge upon the annuities, but shall be defrayed by the United
States.
Article 6. The President may, from time to time, at his discretion cause
the whole or such portions of such reservation as he may think proper, to be
surveyed into lots, and assign the same to such individuals or families of the
said confederated tribes and bands of Indians as are willing to avail themselves
of the privilege, and will locate on the same as a permanent home, on the same
terms and subject to the same regulations as are provided in the sixth articU
of the treaty with the Omahas, so far as the same may be applicable.
Article 7. The annuities of the aforesaid confederated tribes and bands
of Indians shall not be taken to pay the debts of individuals.
Article 8. The aforesaid confederated tribes and bands of Indians ac-
knowledge their dependence upon the Government of the United States and
264 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
promise to be friendly with all citizens thereof, and pledge themselves to com-
mit no depredations upon the property of such citizens.
And should any one or more of them violate this pledge, and the fact be
satisfactorily proved before the agent, the property taken shall be returned,
or in default thereof, or if injured or destroyed, compensation may be made
by the Government out of the annuities.
Nor will they make war upon any other tribe, except in self-defense, but
will submit all mafter of difference between them and other Indians to the
Government of the United States or its agent for decision, and abide thereby.
And if any of the said Indians commit depredations on any other Indians
within the Territory of Washington or Oregon, the same rule shall prevail as
that provided in this article in case of depredations against citizens. And the
said confederated tribes and bands of Indians agree not to shelter or conceal
offenders against the laws of the United States, but to deliver them up to the
authorities for trial.
Article 9. The said confederated tribes and bands of Indians desire to
exclude from their reservation the use of ardent spirits, and to prevent their
people from drinking the same, and, therefore, it is provided that any Indian
belonging to said confederated tribe and bands of Indians, who is guilty of
bringing liquor into said reservation, or who drinks liquor, may have his or her
annuities withheld from him or her for such time as the President may deter-
mine.
Article 10. And provided, That there is also reserved and set apart from
the lands ceded by this treaty, for the use and benefit of the aforesaid confed-
erated tribes and bands, a tract of land not exceeding in ([uantity one township
of six miles square, situated at the forks of the Pisquonse or Wenatshapam
River, and known as the "Wenatshapam Fishery," which said reservation shall
be surveyed and marked out whenever the President may direct, and be subject
to the same provisions and restrictions as other Indian reserv-ations.
Article 11. This treaty shall be obligatory upon the contracting parties
as soon as the same shall be ratified by the President and Senate of the United
States.
In testimony whereof, the said Isaac I. Stevens, ."governor and superin-
tendent of Indian affairs for the Territory of Washington, and the under-
signed head chief, chiefs, headmen, and delegates of the aforesaid confederated
tribes and bands of Indians, have hereunto set their hands and seals, at the
place and on the day and year hereinbefore written.
Is.-\AC I. Stevens,
Governor and Superintendent. (L. S.)
Kamaiakun, his x mark (L. S.) Wish-och-kmpits, his x mark (L. S.)
Skloom, his X mark (L. S.) Koo-lat-toose, his x mark (L. S.)
OwHi, his x mark (L. S.) Shee-ah-cotte, his x mark (L. S.)
Te-cole-kun, his X mark (L. S.) Tuck-quille, his x mark (L. S.)
La-hoom, his X mark (L. S.) K.\-loo-as, his x mark (L. S.)
HISTORY OF YAKDIA VALLEY 265
Me-ni-nock, his X mark (L. S.) Scha-noo-a, his x mark (L. S.)
Elit Palmer, his x mark (L. S.) Sla-kish, his x mark (L. S.)
Signed and sealed in the presence of —
James Doty, secretary of treaties,
Mie. Cles. Pandosy, 6. 'M. T.,
A\'m. C. McKay,
W. H. Tappan, sub Indian agent, \V. T.
C. Chirouse, O. 'SI. T.
Patrick McKenzie. interpreter.
A. D. Pambrun, interpreter,
Joel Palmer, superintendent, Indian affairs, O. T.
W. D. BiHow.
PART II
ERA OF EARLY GROWTH AXD THE .MOTHER COUNTY
CHAPTER I
first settlements — first real settler — dealing with thieving indians
growing settlement mining in yakima valley some characteristic
stories of old times.
First Settlements
We have seen in the preceding chapter that after a dozen years of broken
and desultory warfare, together with a plentiful lack of definiteness and con-
tinuity of aim, by reason of lack of hannony between the national and state
troops, — the Indians were reduced to helplessness, the chief organizers, as
Leschi, Qualchan, Peupeumoxmox, Owhi, and Kamiakin, were killed or ban-
ished, and the tomahawk and rifle, and firebrand and scalping knife gave way
to the beginnings of civilized occupation. It was a great era in this country
when the long-closed gates of the Inland Empire were thrown open and immi-
gration poured in. The bulk of first comers came from the Willamette \"alley.
The larger tide turned to the Walla Walla country. This was very natural.
The 'A'alley of Waters" had been seen by many immigrants of the forties and
fifties. They had been favorably impressed with its beauty and evident fer-
tility. Some indeed had located there prior to the Indian wars. The discovery
of the Idaho goldfields in 1860-61 had caused a stampede of which the natural
outfitting point was Walla Walla. As a result of these conditions and of the
added fact that the chief military post- was located at that point, Walla Walla
became the principal early settlement and the mother county of the Inland Em-
pire. In fact the first Walla Walla County included all of eastern Washington,
over half of Idaho, and about a fourth of ^Montana. Xo organization, how-
ever, was effected, and a new alignment a little later gave the mother county
somewhat less colossal dimensions.
The Yakima A'alley was relatively late in entering the field. The reasons
are obvious. It was off the main course of imoiigrant travel and hence was
less known. Although the famous Naches Road was laid out in 1833 and a
notable immigration to Puget Sound occurred in that year, and there was later
a considerable movement by that route, yet the great tide of travel was by the
Oregon Trail to the Willamette Valley. ^loreover the evident aridity of
climate, the vast sagebrush deserts of the lower valley with poor grazing sup-
plies, even though along the water courses and in the upper valleys the Indian
herds congregated in great numbers, discouraged settlement. Hence there was
266
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 267
hardly a real immigration till the decade of the seventies, and not till the eigh-
ties, with the beginnings of regular irrigation and coming of railroads was there
a development comparable with that which had taken place in Walla Walla
twenty years earlier. The decade of the eighties, including one or two years
of the seventies, was the great foundation period of most of eastern Washing-
ton. The Palouse country, the Spokane and Big Bend, the Asotin and Pataha
regions, the Wenatchee and Yakima,— all may be said to have had their real
birth in the early eighties, while Walla Walla was already a blooming maiden
of twenty summers. There was, however, a kind of prenatal existence for the
other regions which makes a most significant and entertaining story, and to
that period of history in Yakima we now address ourselves. We draw our
data considerably from the book by A. J. Splawn, already referred to so many
times. "The History of Klickitat, Yakima, and Kittitas Counties," published
in 1904, by the Interstate Publishing Company, is also a valuable source of
information. Miscellaneous writings, culled from magazines and newspapers,
and regular newspaper files, have been used so far as possible. Still more
important and vital is the testimony of living participants in the history. The
historian is very fortunate to find in Yakima, still in the best of health and
spirits, a member of the first pioneer family of the Yakima Valley. This is
Leonard Thorp, known and honored by his fellow townsmen, a man who has
seen the sagebrush plains transformed into one of the garden spots of the
earth. Mrs. Thorp (Philena Henson) also belonged to a pioneer family, coming
but a little later.
A good many of the first comers to Yakima were "Squaw men." Some of
them were transient wanderers, while others became permanent and influential
in laying first foundations. It is difficult to say with certainty how early these
men began coming. As we have seen in an earlier chapter, David Longmire
looked upon the Yakima Valley first of any one now living in Yakima. That
was in 1853, the year of the first wagon train to Puget Sound. Mr. Longmire
says that there were no white men here at that time except two Catholic priests,
one at Tampico and the other near Selah at the subsequent homestead of
George Taylor, still later acquired by George Hall. It is quite probable that
other Whites had made sporadic locations at various places in the vast expanse
of the valley with its many arms. The first names, however, that appear are
those of certain cattlemen, who became well-known in later history. They
came in 1859, but made no permanent location. These men were Ben Snipes,
William Murphy, Fred Allen, Jacob Allen, Bert Allen, and John B. Nelson. A
little later came James Murphy, John Murphy, William Henderson, William
Connell, and John Jeffrey. These latter men were located in the Klickitat, but
drove their cattle across the Simcoe Mountains to the Yakima. None of these
cattlemen made any definite location till several years later.
FIRST REAL SETTLER
The first real settler was F. Mortimer Thorp. His coming was a notable
event worthy of all commemoration. Moreover, his descendants, now in the
fourth generation, have continued to play a noble part in the development of
268 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Yakima, and hence we may well take the coming of Mortimer Thorp and fam-
ily as the initial date of beginnings. Mr. Thorp was one of the genuine type of
American frontiersmen, a type passing away rapidly, but one which has left its
impress on American and even world history beyond any other type. While
conditions no longer make possible the existence of that type in the outer
semblance of the old pioneer days, yet it is due to their transmitted qualities of
mind and body that their sons have been going by the million to France to play
a decisive part in executing sentence of death on that hoary-headed iniquity of
monarchical militarism which was threatening to enslave Europe and ultimately
to destroy that greatest product of the ages, which we are proud to call Ameri-
canism, which Lincoln himself, one of the best examples of the Ameri-
can pioneer, called "the last best hope of earth." Daring, generous, hospitable,
ambitious, liberty-loving, regardless of the old and looking toward the new,
freehanded, oftentimes high-tempered and quick with a "gun" or a fist, but
not mean or sneaking or hypocritical, intolerant toward Indians, yet quickly
sympathetic under all his sternness, in deadly earnest about the essentials of
life but with great facility in adaptation of means to ends, thinking for him-
self and perfectly indifferent to any supposed "authority" of church or state
or society, inclined to melancholy, and yet with a dry nonchalant humor, with
enough wholesome human nature and original sin to give a rich flavor to his
other qualities — the western pioneer is one of the choicest products of human
evolution. He is the true maker of the modern world. And "by this sign we
shall conquer" in the present great crisis of the world's history, and make the
world "safe for Democracy."
Mr. Thorp was born in Kentucky and his wife, Margaret Bounds, was bom
in Tennessee. In 1844 they came to Oregon and settled in Polk County. But
as settlements thickened, the restless pioneer craving to move on and lay new
foundations possessed them, and in 1858 the family, then including nine chil-
dren (after the good old Oregon fashion of big families, while in these degen-
erate days it is hard to contribute even one or two to the race stock of the world),
left the Oregon home and located in the Klickitat Valley at the subsequent site
of Goldendale. But apparently fearing that somebody else might come to the
same spot, Mr. Thorp, having played an influential part in founding the county
of Klickitat, being first probate judge, again pulled up stakes and moved on.
In the latter part of 1860 he drove a herd of cattle into the Moxee. The herd
consisted of fine Durham cattle, over two hundred and fifty in number. He
had also a number of horses. He employed Benjamin Sneiling, John Zumwalt,
and A. C. Myers, as herders, and built for them a little log cabin, the first
house built in Yakima Valley, except those of the militan,- forces and the Cath-
olic fathers. In February, 1861, Mr. Thorp moved with his family from
Klickitat to the new home on the Moxee. The location is known of course, to
all old-timers, in the southern part of the Moxee Valley, by the "big spring,"
near the bluff, across the Yakima River from the mouth of the Ahtanum. To
that sightly spot the first family of Yakima made their way, father, mother,
and nine children, four boys and five girls, on horseback, and with their house-
hold goods on pack-horses. Living first in the log cabin built for the cattle
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 269
herders, they soon constructed a better cabin, twenty-five by sixteen feet in
size, and were ready to hve in the generous frontier style. No one thought
then of the Yakima Valley being anything more than a stock country on any
large scale, but the Thorps cleared off and planted a tract of several acres on
the bottom land and were rewarded with an abundance of garden products in
the Fall. In the Fall also Mr. Thorp succeeded in making his way from Klick-
itat with a wagon. He brought in a cook stove, some furniture and other fun-
damental conveniences, thus lightening the household duties of his wife and
daughters to a great degree.
DEALING WITH THIEVING INDIANS
Although the Indian wars were over the Yakima Valley was then a genu-
ine Indian country and at times that first family on the Moxee were in no little
peril. Mr. Thorp was one of the boldest of men and he met all dangers with
such unflinching courage as to quench them at the very outset. This is well
illustrated by two incidents related to the author by Mr. Leonard Thorp, who
at the time of settlement in Moxee was a sixteen-year-old boy, but like other
pioneer boys, accustomed to the work and responsibilities of a man. In the
Summer of 1862 a fine gray horse, Mr. Thorp's favorite riding animal, disap-
peared. Feeling sure that it was stolen by Indians Mr. Thorp demanded its
return of the chief, declaring that if it were not brought back he would punish
the thief when he found him in a way that would be remembered. The horse
was not returned and finding the thief in course of time the frontiersman exe-
cuted his threat by tying him to a tree and giving him such a merciless flogging
that he never recovered, dying in a few mouths. As a result the Indians had
such wholesome respect for the one man on the Moxee that his stock were
seldom molested. Leonard Thorp in narrating this in.stance of his father's
energetic and decisive methods, remarked rather apologetically that his father
was pretty high-tempered and very strong, and moreover had always been
accustomed to a frontiersman's way of dealing with Indians. The other inci-
dent concerned a meeting with Smohalla the "dreamer." One day in 1863, Mr.
Thorp and Leonard were riding in the middle of the Moxee when they discov-
ered a band of Indians approaching rapidly from the north. As the dust flew
away from the galloping band it was evident that they v.'ere in full war rig.
Going to the house hastily and directing the family to hunt places of hiding
as well as possible, Mr. Thorp and Leonard went out boldly to meet the array
of warriors. Mr. Thorp was well armed, and when the Indians drew near and
saw who it was they halted. After his usual manner Thorp took the initiative
and with cocked revolver in one hand he seized Smohalla's bridle reins with the
other and demanded his reasons for coming down on them in war paint and
weapons in that style. Though only two men against eighty Indians, nerve was
the winning card as usual. The cocked revolver was a very strong line of argu-
ment. Smohalla laughed, offered his hand in a friendly manner and explained
that the report had been circulated that a thousand Indians were coming to raid
the settlement. He had therefore come with his little band of eighty warriors —
all he had — to show the settlers the smallness of his force and to assure them
270 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
of his friendship. After a little further exchange of compliments the band
of warriors turned and went back as swiftly as they had come. The Thorps
always believed that the Indians had come for mischief, but that the unexpected
boldness of the settler, with the eloquent look of the revolver, had nipped the
plan in the bud.
If we may digress for a paragraph at this point, it may prove of interest to
the reader to know that this Smohalla the "dreamer" was chief of a tribe of
Indians at Priest Rapids. He had had some most remarkable experiences. He
was a great "tomanowas" man and ruled his tribe and even the adjoining tribes
through fear of his evil spell. It having been noised around that he was making
"bad medicine" in order to kill Moses, the latter met him one day on the bank
of the Columbia and beat him almost to death. Smohalla recovered sufficiently
to hunt a canoe, in which he went down the river, and with some assistance
from sympathetic Whites at Umatilla he continued on to Portland. He finally
made an extended tour of Oregon, California, Arizona, New Mexico and Utah,
returning home by a northeastern route. He was gone two years and upon his
return he regained his former influence, and more, over his people. His great
aim was to combat in every possible way the adoption by the Indians of civilized
manners, dress, food and religion. He taught the old salmon dances, snake
dances, and other old rites and ceremonies, and professed to have special rev-
elations from the Great Spirit. A. J. Splawn says that Smohalla was the
greatest hypocrite that he ever knew, but that he was also the greatest Indian
orator that he ever heard. He especially describes his speech in favor of peace
in 1877. Joseph, the Nez Perce Napoleon, had sent emissaries to a council at
Wenatchee to urge that Moses and the bands on the Columbia start a foray
upon Yakima in order to draw off Howard and his forces from the pursuit of
Joseph's band. Smohalla opposed this proposal successfully in what Splawn
says was an extraordinary speech.
One custom was almost universal among the pioneers, which has a good
deal to commend it, though it has become a back number in our day, and that
was early marriages. The corollary of that usage was large families. So,
hardly were the Thorps settled in their new home before marriages began to
take place. The first was that of Charles A. Splawn and Dulcena Helen Thorp,
presumably the first wedding in Yakima. This occurred in the Fall of 1861 at
Fort Simcoe, Father Wilbur performing the ceremony.
Next to the Thorps, the Hensons and Splawns may be considered as the
first permanent settlers who became identified with the history of Yakima.
Alfred Henson with his family had been a neighbor of the Thorps in Klickitat
on the present site of Goldendale. In 1861, only two weeks after the departure
of the Thorps, Henson and his family under the guidance of a friendly Indian
named Howmilt crossed the Simcoe hills, went through the Yakima and onward
to the Kittitas and hence to a tributary of the Wenatchee. It is safe to say
that this was the first white family to see those two valleys, now so fruitful and
well settled, then in all their wild beauty and filled with native tribes. Mr. Hen-
son had heard of gold discoveries in the Wenatchee and conjectured that a
supply of miners' equipment would be a profitable venture. He had fifteen
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 271
horses loaded with such supplies and also drove a fev- milch cows. John
Gubser and George Rearfield went to assist in packing and driving. But dis-
appointment awaited him in the Wenatchee. The miners had moved on. See-
ing no outlook in that direction Mr. Henson sold his supplies to the Indians
and made his way to Moxee where he made a location adjoining his old neigh-
bors, the Thorps. In the course of the Fall the Indians liecame so threatening
that Mr. Henson lost faith in the new location and returned with his family to
Klickitat. Three years later he moved again and made a permanent location
in the Moxee. The Splawns, whose part in Yakima history is equalled by few
and surpassed by none, consisted of five brothers, Charles, William, George,
Moses, and Andrew J. Their father, John Splawn, was a pioneer of Missouri,
dying in 1845 at an early age. Their mother, Nancy McHaney Splawn, with the
bravery and enterprise characteristic of those pioneer mothers, went in an im-
migrant train to Oregon in 1852. The mother with her five boys settled in
Linn County. The book by A. J. Splawn gives so vivid a picture of his heroic
mother as to make her a most attractive personality even to those who never
knew her. She was one of the genuine frontier women of the Northwest. It
is a pleasure to record that she later became established in the Kittitas Valley
and lived many years at Ellensburg where she reached a very advanced age,
surrounded by the comforts of life after all the strenuous experiences of her
earlier years. Charles Splawn, as related, came with the Thorps to Klickitat,
having cattle also on the site of Goldendale, and in 1861 he accompanied the
Thorps to Moxee and soon after he and the oldest girl were married. A son
was born to them in 1863, the first in Yakima, but he died within a year. In
1868 Charles Splawn and his wife moved to the Taneum Creek in the upper
Yakima near the present Ellensburg. Mrs. Charles Splawn was the first white
woman in what later became Kittitas County. Her daughter Viola, born in
1869, was one of the first white children born in Kittitas. William Splawm,
with his wife, Margaret Jacobs, came to Moxee in 186^, and their daughter
Nettie, born in that year, subsequently Mrs. Richmond, was the first white girl
born in Yakima County. A. J. Splawn went in 1860, a boy of sixteen, to the
Klickitat to join his brother Charles. He entered then upon his career as a
cattleman, becoming one of the best known in the Northwest. His book, the
most notable in Yakima history, contains a multitude of valuable details of the
events with which he was so familiar. His subsequent important part in the
upbuilding of the county will appear in the further progress of this work. In
1861 he made his first trip into the Yakima Valley. In company with Jack Ker
he helped Noble Saxon drive a herd of cattle into Yakima. They drove the
herd to the Moxee where they found the Thorps holding solitary possession.
On account of an Indian scare the Saxon herd was driven back in the Fall to
Klickitat. In May of that same year Major John Thorp, father of Mortimer,
drove into Moxee a band of one hundred and fifty steers. For many years fol-
lowing "Jack" Splawn ranged back and forth through the Yakima, Wenatchee,
Cariboo, Boise, Montana, Kamloops, Okanogan, and all places between, having
adventures enough for a volume, many of which he happily preserved in the
valuable and entertaining book to which we have so often referred. In 1870 he.
272 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
in company with Ben Burch, started a store in Kittitas Valley, with the rather
anti-inviting title of "Robbers' Roost." He also filed a squatter's right to one
hundred and sixty acres of land. Such a life was, however, ill-suited to the
active, adventurous disposition of the cowboy, and in 1872 he sold out to John
A. Shoudy, giving him also a present of his squatter's right. That was as good
a claim as lay out doors and upon it Mr. Shoudy founded a town. He named
it in honor of his wife Ellen, and thus the second largest city in central Wash-
ington, Ellensburg, had its beginning. Moses Splawn, another brother, had as
many adventures in the mines and elsewhere as fell to the general lot of the
family, but was not steadily a resident of the Yakima country. In 1870 he was
with A. J. in the store on the site of the coming Ellensburg.
Leonard Thorp has described for us the cattleman's paradise which lay at
Moxee when they first settled in 1861. There was rj'e grass in the bottom as
high as a man's shoulders on horseback, so that the stock were fairly swallowed
up in it. Though the plains were mainly covered with sagebrush there was
mixed with it, and yet more in the hills, the most luxurious bunch grass. This
limitless supply of feed, together with the pure cold waters of the Yakima
rushing by, made a little world of themselves for the stock. Though the lonely
family by the "big spring" in the Moxee had no neighbors nearer than Klicki-
tat, about sixty miles distant, and had no money, nor felt the need of any, they
had a rude plenty, with their cattle, game, fish, and the products of their garden.
In the midst of their satisfaction came that "hard Winter" cf 1861-62, the worst
ever known, unless the recent one of 1915-16 be accounted a rival. But in
these times the facilities of life are so much more numerous that a comparison
is not possible. In some regions the cattle industry was practically wiped out
in 1861-62. Heavy snows began in November of that year. One followed an-
other to be succeeded at intervals with heavy rain, freezing on top, with an
occasional partial thaw, after which would come another freeze. There was
over two feet of snow on the whole valley, with so hard a crust that not even a
horse could easily break it. But Mr. Thorp did not propose to bring all that
band of cattle into the Moxee to let them perish, and he and his sons waged a
desperate and successful fight with the Winter. They got out every day to
break the crusted snow in order that the cattle and horses might reach the
great stores of dry^ grass beneath. Their efforts were rewarded, for out of three
hundred cattle they lost only seven, and none of their sixty horses perished.
GROWING SETTLEMENT
The three families. Thorps, Hensons, and Splawns, may be considered as
contributing the nucleus of the settlement of the Yakima Valley. There were,
however, a number of others who came more transiently, most of them with
Indian wives, during the years immediately following. In 1862, Albert Haines
with his wife Letitia Flett. came to Moxee and settled near the Thorps. This
marked a very interesting event; that is, the first school in Yakima. Mrs.
Haines was the teacher, the scholars were the Thorp children, and the school
room was the upstairs of the new Thorp house, a two story log structure much
larger than the first. In 1863 three French squawmen, Doshea, Broshea, and
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 273
Nason, located near the Thorps. One of them, Nason, took a place in the Moxee
near the present location of the Riverside schoolhouse. Broshea established
himself on the river bottom in the place now reached by East Yakima Avenue.
He was thus the first settler on land now actually in the city of Yakima.
Doshea was also on the west side of the river just below Broshea. Nason sold
out to McAllister in 1865. He went to the Kittitas in 1869, becoming one of
the first settlers in that part of the Yakima. In November, 1863, William
Parker and Fred White established themselves with a large band of cattle on
the upper Satus Creek. In the next year Mr. Parker and John Allen drove
their cattle into the fertile flats on the north side of the Yakima south of the
ridge, and it is known as Parker bottom to this day, one of the most productive
regions of the whole fertile valley. In the same year came Gilbert Pell, who
settled on the north side of the Yakima River near the mouth of the Satus. He
afterwards became the first settler in Fruitvale. In the Spring of the same year
of 1864 the first settler on the Ahtanum made a permanent location. This was
Andrew Gervais, permanently and honorably identified with the growth of
Yakima. At the same time came one of the most prominent of the makers of
early Yakima, J. B. Nelson. He with his family first located near the mouth
of the Yakima, the first family in all that region. He had come to be there by
reason of the fact that horse thieves had run off horses from his herds and in
following them he had become temporarily the first settler on the lower Yakima.
During the following Winter he went to a point on the other side of the
Yakima a little ways south of the present Sunnyside, later the Jock Morgan
ranch. The next year the Nelsons went to a point near the mouth of the Naches,
now the Lesh orchard. Having been flooded out in 1867, the family moved
again, this time to what became the first claim on the Naches. In the Fall of
1864 one of the most prominent men in the country at that time came to
Yakima, Nathan Olney. He was the second settler on the Ahtanum. His loca-
tion was near the present Wiley City. He was a member of the immigration
of 1843, had taken a prominent part in all the Indian wars, was an Indian sub-
agent for a number of years and as such had exercised ;i large influence in the
settlement of Indian troubles. His wife was an Indian woman, and his children
and grandchildren, living mainly at Toppenish, Wapato, and the regions ad-
joining, are known throughout Yakima as possessed of vvealth, intelligence, and
force of character. Mr. Olney died the very next year after locating on the
Ahtanum.
In the fall of 1864 there arrived also a notable group of cattlemen, L. F.
Mosier, Captain James Barnes, and Mr. Warbass. They had driven a herd of
cattle from southern Oregon past Klamath Lake and The Dalles, and thence
across the Klickitat and Simcoe to the Selah and Wenas. These cattle were the
first on that range.
The year 1865 was notable for incoming settlers. The first location on
the Wenas was made that year by Augustan Cleman. His location was that
subsequently acquired by David Longmire. It is stated that the first sheep in
Yakima were driven in by Mr. Cleman. From him the high mountain between
the Naches and Wenas received its name. His descendants have taken a prom-
CIS)
274 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
inent part in the development of both the Yakima and Kittitas regions. This
same year saw the entrance of the largest drove of cattle yet coming to Yakima,
nine hundred head, driven in by the McDaniels, Elisha and Andy. Their loca-
tion was on the Yakima River at the west end of Snipes Mountain. Their
cattle were ultimately acquired by Ben Snipes. As already noted, Mr. Snipes
began driving stock into the Yakima as early as 1859, but he did not take up a
residence till a number of years later. In 1865 came another notable addition
to the growing community. This was an immigration led by Dr. L. H. Good-
win, whose first design was to go to Puget Sound. They decided to locate
near the mouth of the Cowiche, and became the first settlers in that region.
With this company, in addition to the Goodwins, there were Walter Lindsay and
family and John Rozelle and family and William Harrington, whose wife was
a daughter of Rozelle. These families had a number of sons and daughters
and constituted the largest addition yet made to the different Yakima settle-
ments. L. H. Goodwin finally took a place just above the subsequent Yakima
City. Thomas Goodwin located in the river bottom aboui a mile above the
present Moxee bridge. W'alter Lindsay made his house yet a little higher up,
John Lindsay and William Harrington located on the Ahtanum. The Rozelles
went to the Kittitas and thus became the first settlers in that part of Yakima.
But they were not permanent settlers. For during their first Winter they fell
into such distress that Mortimer Thorp, learning of their condition, sent Andy
Gervais to bring them down to Moxee. This he did and as a result Mr. Rozelle
took up a place which became the site of the north part of the city of Yakima.
These claims, with those earlier taken by Doshea and Broshea embraced most
of what is now the city, east of the railroad. In 1863 Mr. Moore and William
Connell built a cabin in Parker bottom, now on the Sawyer place, the oldest
house in Yakima, of which a picture appears in this volume.
The year 1866 saw a steady, though not a large increase in the little settle-
ment. James W. Allen located on the Ahtanum about two miles below the sub-
sequent Woodcock Academy, and a few years later his son-in-law, H. M. Ben-
ton, became established adjoining. David Heaton settled on the Ahtanum a
little above the Allen place in the same year of 1866. In the same year the first
settler located in the Selah Valley on the east side of the Yakima River. This
was George Taylor. In that year came E. Bird, with cattle which he turned
out on the plains just below the mouth of the Satus. A few years later he drove
his stock into the lower Yakima between "the Horn" and the present Richland.
Apparently he was the first in that region for anything more than a transient
stay, and even he made no permanent residence there. William Hickenbottom
and Thomas Connell acquired the Moore interests in Parker Bottom and became
residents in the Moore cabin already referred to as the oldest existing house in
Yakima Valley. This same year also was marked by the erection of the first
cabin on the site of Ellensburg, by William Wilson.
A number of permanent additions were made in 1867. Egbert French went
to Parker Bottom, having a very bright Indian wife, and started the first store.
He was on the place now owned by Dan McDonald. Purdy Flint and wife, Lucy
Burch, settled in Moxee, and began their influential part in laying foundations
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 275
in the valley. They are still living in a beautiful home in Yakima. A begin-
ning was made this year in the region on the north side of the Yakima along
the foot of Snipes Mountains. This location was made by Samuel Chappelle.
Within a few years he moved to the subsequent site of Zillah, the first in that
place. C. P. Cooke came to Moxee in 1867, and three years later went to the
Kittitas, where he and his family bore an honorable part in the upbuildings of
that section. The Lyen family followed almost the same course as the Cookes,
going to Kittitas in 1871. In 1867 also came one of the noteworthy char-
acters of Yakima history. This was Col. H. D. Cock. In the Chapter on Indian
Wars we have related an instance of his nerve. He first settled on the river a
little below the present Mabton, and there he established the first ferry in that
section. Later he became the first to take up land on the dry hill west of Yakima,
then usually thought worthless, now the Nob Hill section. Colonel Cock became
the first marshal of North Yakima. Several important ?dditions were made
to the Ahtanum settlement in 1867. Among these may be named Thomas
Chambers, Charles Stewart, and Joseph Bunting. According to A. J. Splawn,
Bunting was the man who murdered Quiemuth the Indian in Olympia under
the impression that it was Quiemuth who killed the McAllisters on the White
River in 1855. Bunting was a son-in-law of McAllister. Thomas Pierce settled
in the Selah Valley in 1867. In the same year there was another valuable addi-
tion to the Ahtanum in the person of Hugh Wiley and family, who have been
among the largest contributors to the substantial moral and business growth of
the Ahtanum section. Their location was at the place where Wiley City now
stands. J. W. Coplen settled adjoining Wiley, but in 1870 sold out to Alonzo
Durgon and moved to Walla Walla, subsequently becommg one of the first
settlers in the Hangman Creek country. J. W. Goodwin located on the Cowiche
in that year, selling in 1870 to J. W. Stevenson who still lives at the place. The
same year of 1867 marked the first actual settlers in the Kittitas, though, as
already seen there were sporadic locations there at an earHer date. A Switzer
named Frederick Ludi, and a German, John Goller, commonly called "Dutch
John." located that year in Kittitas. They were advised to seek that spot by
Mortimer Thorp to whom they had gone for advice. The splendid beauty of
the valley visible from the Umptanum ridge so appealed to them that they made
a location a mile above the mouth of the Manashtash. The Indians said, "Snow
fall Injun deep ; awful cold ; white man can't stand it." And in fact they had a
severe Winter and the next Spring went eastward and took a claim on what is
now the southern part of Ellensburg. They found William Wilson living- there
with the Indians, the same who is said to have put up the first cabin on the site
of Ellensburg. It appears that Wilson was drowned in Snake River the next
year while trying to run ofif some stolen horses.
In 1868 several of the best known families of the Yakima Valley became
permanently located. Among them may be mentioned William and Edward
Henderson and Charles Carpenter who settled on the Ahtanum. Above the
Wileys, Daniel Lynch made a location. Alfred Miller located in the Wenas. In
1868 the scanty settlement in Kittitas was augmented by two notable arrivals.
Tilman Houser from Renton, Washington, took up a preemption claim on Cole-
276 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
man Creek ten miles northeast of Ellensburg. In the same year Charles Splawn,
as already narrated, settled on the Taneum Creek on what later became known
as the Thorp ranch. With 1868 there were therefore iwo families and three
bachelors in the Kittitas. Mrs. Splawn and Mrs. Houser were the first white
women living in that region.
The year 1869 was a great year in the beginnings of settlement. In that
year the father of Yakima, Mortimer Thorp, made yet another move. To the
historian it would seem as though he would be content to stay settled and enjoy
the fruits of his energy on the spot which will always be known as the nucleus
of Yakima settlements. But no! He was a genuine frontiersman, and such he
remained till the last. So he forsook tlie Moxee and moved to the Taneum
Creek in the upper Kittitas, near the present town of Thorp. There he lived
out the remainder of his restless, ambitious and useful life. One of the noblest
contributions to the Ahtanum of 1869 was Elisha Tanner. Having known him
from childhood the author can testify to the affectionate regard in which he and
his family were held by all who knew them in their former homes in Oregon and
at White Salmon, and later in Yakima. Like all the early settlers he engaged
in the stock business, but was one of those who foresaw the capability of the
Yakima Valley to sustain a large population with varied industries. In 1870
Mr. Tanner moved his family to the place which he had taken on the Ahtanum,
and for ten years was one of the leaders in every good word and work. In
1880 his life was prematurely ended by a distressing accident on the Naches
River. He was crossing the river on the ferry, and through the almost crim-
inal carelessness of the ferryman in having no rear guard, the team becoming
frightened, backed off the boat into the water. In the struggle in the water
Mr. Tanner was struck by the horses and drowned. To the Ahtanum in 1869
also came W. P. Crosno and his family, and they must be counted among the
leaders to this day in laying the foundations. The Flynns, the Blands, the
Tigards, and the La Chappelles also came in that year. Yet another arrival of
high standing was James W. Beek. Perhaps the most notable event of 1869
was the establishment of a store at what soon became Yakima City by Sumner
Barker, joined a year later by his brother, O. D. Barker. Another event worthy
to be chronicled was the marriage in that year of Leonard Thorp and Philena
Henson. Soon after their marriage they took up a homestead in Selah Valley
and there they lived many years. The first settlement in tiie region of the pres-
ent Granger was made in 1869 by Martin Holbrook.
After 1869 settlers came so thick and fast that it will exceed our limits to
tabulate them. We may perhaps consider the year 1870 as the dividing line
between the beginnings of settlement and the larger growth. Several events
of special importance may be named as marking the transition. In 1870 George
Goodwin, one of the settlers of 1865, opened a store near that of Barker Broth-
ers. With a second store the name of Yakima City began to be used for the
little cluster of houses. At about the same time Charles Schanno and his
brother Joseph took up claims on the sagebrush flat, and the main part of
Yakima City grew up on those claims. The Schanno brothers established the
third store, a good deal more extensive than either of the others, and began to
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 277
do business in almost the modern manner. More signincant even than the
stores was the fact of the beginnings of irrigation. For the destiny of Yakima
is practically interwoven with the irrigating systems. To Thomas and Benton
Goodwin must be accorded the honor of the first irrigating canal. It was laid
out in 1866, and conducted water to land about a mile south of the present city
of Yakima. By means of this the Goodwins raised a small crop of wheat, the
first in the Valley, forty bushels to the acre. In 1869 Captain Simmons and Mr.
Vaughn with others made a short canal under a sort of cooperative system, con-
veying water from the Naches River to lands below the junction of the rivers.
It was the ancestor of the Union Canal. The Schannos undertook a much more
extensive enterprise in 1870. They dug a canal from a point on the Ahtanum
near the Carpenter place to Yakima City. That is often supposed to be the
first real ditch for irrigating purposes in the Yakima, but it was antedated by
the two described. Even their canals, it should be remembered, were preceded
by one dug by Indians. That Indian ditch was on the place near Tampico, now
owned by Wallace Wiley, and conveyed water for "Kamiakin's Gardens." It
was made as early, probably, as 1852 or 1853. Among many matters of general
interest in that period of the sixties, we should mention the beginning of
schools. We have already named Mrs. Letitia Flett Haines as the first teacher
and the date as 1862. But that school was a private one for the children of
]\Iortimer Thorp. The first county commissioners appointed in February, 1868,
the first county superintendent of schools. We shall have much more to say
of this in the chapter dealing with schools, but suffice it to say here that the
settlers on the Yakima, true to American ideals, saw to it that schools were
started at once. A schoolhouse was built between Yakima City and the present
Yakima. The pioneer teachers in that building, according to the recollections
of Mr. Thorp and other old-timers, were Joe Lawrence, Martha Beck and
Doctor Clark.
As will readily be seen by the reader, we have not undertaken to give a
complete list of settlers in those earliest years. We have undertaken to name
those who were first in the leading regions, and especially those who by reason
of permanent residence and subsequent connection with the growth of their
respective localities may be said to have had the closest connection with the
histor)'. In later chapters we shall have occasion to bring' out further facts in
regard to some of the pioneers named, as well as other facts about other
pioneers.
It may be noted that while we have named first locations in the vicinity
of Yakima, and other points in the upper and central valleys, we have given
practically nothing of the beginnings in the lower Valley. From Mabton down
there was no permanent settlement till many years later. The first settlers of
Prosser, Kiona, Kennewick, and Richland, belonged to a later vintage. It was
not till about 1879 and two or three years later that C. J. Beach at Kennewick,
Ben Rosencrantz, Jack Roberts, and Joe Baxter at Richland, and Nelson Rich,
W. F. Prosser and the Taylors near Prosser, began to lay the first foundations.
The above statement should be qualified by adding that Smith Barnum was
living at the mouth of the Yakima River in 1875, and that by a memorial of the
278 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \'ALLEY
Territorial Legislature, the postmaster-general was requested to establish a mail
route through the Yakima Valley, with Smith Bamum as postmaster at the
mouth of the river. Yet the general body of the lower Valley settlers and their
followers belong properly to the period coming in with the railroad in the eigh-
ties. We are here giving rather a panoramic than an encyclopedic view.
MINING IN YAKIMA VALLEY
During the period of beginnings at those pivotal points of the valley which
at first were stock ranges but were destined to become gardens, orchards, and
cities, there was running along parallel with them another sort of a period,
equally inevitable with that of the cowboy. This was the era of the prospector
and the miner. The pick and the gold pan were as active as the shaps and the
quirt. Every new opening in the west had a rainbow hanging somewhere on a
gold mine, and the Yakima Valley was no exception. And it was no wonder.
Take into account the California goldfields, Idaho, British Columbia, Colville,
and he would have been a slow immigrant indeed who did not have dazzling
visions of floods of yellow dust at every turn of the landscape. As a matter of
fact, as we have learned by quotations from Government reports in our first
chapter, portions of the mountains in which the Yakima and itse tributaries rise
have the geological formation and history from which the precious metals are
to be expected. Confidence was not entirely misplaced, then, by those eager
prospectors who in the fifties and sixties took their lives in their hands and
threaded the defiles and burrowed in the canon walls and lost themselves in the
declivities with which the great wall of the Cascade Mountains fronts the sun-
rise. Nor were they entirely unsuccessful. Considerable gold has actually been
found in central Washington, and there is reason to believe that there may yet
be paying mines. But largely the prospector and miner have faded away into
the mists of the earlier age.
There are two fine stories so characteristic of that time of feverish expec-
tations that we deem it worth while to relate them here. They are given in
the "History of Central Washington" as received by the author of that work
from Charles Splawn. It seems that a certain Captain lugalls, who had dis-
covered gold in the Coos Bay section, came to the Columbia River in the time
of the Indian wars of 1855-56, and served as a scout. In company with a
friendly Indian named Colowash he found upon the Wenatchee River several
nuggets and an appearance that denoted good placer diggings. Fearful of being
discovered by the hostiles they did not linger, but left, with all plans of return-
ing at a more favorable time. When the war was over Ingalls hastened back
to the "lost mine." It was lost, sure enough. He found never a trace of the
nugget bearing drift. He then went to Klickitat where Colowash lived, to re-
enlist him. But no! Nothing would induce Colowash to go again. Ingalls
made another effort. He organized a small party to make a thorough search.
But misfortune seemed to dog their steps. One of the party accidentally shot
and killed the one on whom they were chiefly depending for guidance. The
next efifort to find the lost mine was made by Charles Splawn. In 1860 he
planned a trip to the Similkanieen mines. Before going he sought information
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 279
from Colowash about the "lost mine." While the Indian refused to go, he was
willing to describe the place and made a map of it. He stated that it was on
the Peshastin Creek and this is in the group of mountains of which Mount
Stuart is the dominating summit, so magnificant from the Kittitas Valley. On
his return from Similkameen Mr. Splawn induced four other returning miners
to join him in the search for the Ingalls discovery. With an Indian guide they
made their way up the Peshastin, and in a narrow canon Mr. Splawn found
a good prospect. Meeting still another prospector named Russell they showed
him the gold and allowed him to take it to Seattle. As a result of his exhibition
of the treasure, quite an excitement arose and a number of miners hastened to
Peshastin. Though a number of nuggets, some of the value of twelve dollars,
were found, those Peshastin mines did not prove of great extent, and the dizzy
expectations set afloat by Ingalls and Colowash are still in the air.
In 1862 an old Indian named Zokeseye took some silver-bearing ore to Fort
Simcoe. The secretary at the agency, whose name was Walker, took the speci-
men with him to The Dalles. Having become overly confidential while under
the influence of some of the stalwart liquids which r.bounded at that city.
Walker exhibited the ore freely. An experienced California miner named
Blachley, seeing the ore and realizing its value, assayed it, and found it nearly
two-thirds silver. Being eager to hunt the source of the wondrously rich rock,
Blachley sought information of Walker, by whom he was referred to Mortimer
Thorp, already so prominent in our history. Meanwhile old Zokeseye had been
so disobliging as to die, so that Mr. Thorp was compelled to secure other Indian
guides. But for that trip the quest was hopeless. Blachley made another effort
the next year. In company with Charles Splawn, he went al! through the upper
Yakima, the Wenatchee, and the Mount Baker regions. But all in vain. The
"lost mine" remained lost, and has not been found to this day.
Quite a gold discovery was made in 1864 at Ringold bar on the Columbia.
Leonard Thorp among others, went from Moxee to seek his fortune in the sands
of the river. Though he found nothing of value, quite a good deal of gold
was found there by others. The white miners cleaned up $30,000 or $40,000
while Chinese took out an amount not known. The Chinese have always been
fond of mining on the bars of the Columbia and Snake rivers. It is well known
that there is almost boundless wealth in gold dust on those bars, but it is so fine
that no profitable method of mining has yet been discovered. The existence of
such quantities of gold dust along the big rivers denotes, in the minds of some
miners, the location at the sources of those rivers of some vast "mother lodes,"
which, if found, may yield the fabulous returns of treasure once imagined.
SOME CHAR.\CTERISTIC STORIES OF OLD TIMES
In concluding this chapter we will give two stories from A. J. Splawn's
"Kamiakin, the Last Hero of the Yakimas," which will illustrate the serio-
comic character of some of the events in "the brave days of old." Readers from
the older states may ask us just how old those brave days are, when middle aged
people now living can remember them. We are obliged to confess that it is
rather stretching a point to call them old. But it is the best we can do. Nothing
and nobody is really old in Yakima.
280 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
The first of these entertaining tales is about the administration of justice at
a certain time in Yakima City :
"In those early days there wandered into Yakima City one J. W. Hamble-
ton, a man far above the average in brains and education, but who, like many
of his kind, had only two useful organs in his body — his mouth and his throat.
He had the gift of gab, and his throat was the canal for conveying the large
quantities of firewater necessary to keep his stomach going. He claimed to be
a lawyer. At any rate, he was prosecuting attorney for Yakima County for one
term.
"At the time, two border ruffians, Ingraham and McBride, kept an Indian
trading post at the mouth of the Wenatchee, where a Mr. Warren was em-
ployed as the handy man, an important position in the line of business con-
ducted by Ingraham and McBride. In traveling through that country I often
found in the Indian villages, kegs of whisky with tin cups near by where all,
big, little, old and young, could help themselves. I was told the Indians bought
it of this firm.
"In November, early in the 70s, Mr. Warren appeared in Yakima City. I
chanced to meet him and he told me he had come to swear out a warrant for
the arrest of Ingraham and McBride for selling liquor to the Indians. They
had had a row among themselves, it seems, and Warren was going to get even.
I told him he was taking chances, since he was equally guilty with the other two,
but he swore to the information and the warrant was put in the hands of the
deputy sheriff who with a small posse soon brought in Ingraham and McBride.
E. P. Boyle, a weak man as well as a poor lawyer, was engaged to defend these
two scoundrels who, for pure cussedness, could not be excelled anywhere on the
border.
"When Hambleton, the prosecuting attorney, read the complaint to the
court, as there was no jury, and stated that he could prove all the allegations
and plenty besides, with some other remarks not complimentary to the pris-
oners, the judge, looking over his spectacles at the two men searchingly, remarked
that he believed all the prosecuting attorney said and thought moreover that it
was high time to suppress the lawlessness running rampant on the frontier,
and adjourned the court till two P. M.
"During all this time, E. P. Boyle, the defendants' attorney, was sitting
dazed. The pace had become too swift for his feeble mind.
"Meeting me outside of the courthouse, Mr. Ingraham said, 'J^ck, do you
believe I could buy off the prosecuting attorney?'
"I told him that I was no go-between, but that the prosecuting attorney
was in bad with the saloon, neither having paid a cent nor missed a drink since
Adam's time. A little later Ingraham and Hambleton came into Schanno's
store, where I happened to be. The latter stepped up to Jo Schanno and asked
if he had gold scales. The scales were brought and Hambleton gave orders
that Jo should weigh out one hundred and fifty dollars. Ingraham then took
from his pocket a buckskin purse and poured the dust into the scales until it
balanced the weight Jo had fixed. Hambleton poured the gold from the scale
into his own purse and the two left the store.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 281
"Having witnessed that transaction, Jo and I thought it would be inter-
esting to see how he disposed of the case and we were in the courtroom promptly
on the hour. Hambleton arose and with a grave and solemn look addressed the
court thus :
" 'Your Honor, while I am a firm believer in law enforcement, yet as prose-
cutor we oft go too far. In our eagerness to convict, we too often overlook
justice. I sincerely hope that it will never fall to my lot to convict innocent
men. Far be it from me to lend a helping hand to ruin any one. Since the ad-
journment of this court for the noon hour, I have learned the true facts in this
case. It is appalling to think how near we came to convicting two innocent men.
This culprit, Mr. Warren, should not be allowed to remain longer in our midst.
The base ingrate has been fed and clothed by these defendants and like the
viper he is, seeks to destroy his benefactors. I refuse to be the means of helping
this cowering cur in his hellish plot and wish to dismiss the case.'
"The judge, believing the prosecutor, became aroused and calling upon
Warren to stand up before the court said: 'By all justice you ought to be hung.
Go hence from here and as quickly as possible shake the dust of Yakima from
your contaminated feet. Go now and keep going. See to it that you never
return, lest this court lose its patience and give you what is coming.'
"Ingram and McBride went back to their trading post and continued to
sell liquor to the Indians. Hambleton, a few years later, was lecturing on tem-
pearance in Iowa. Warren went over to Walla Walla and there got Ingraham
and McBride convicted and sentenced to a year each in the penitentiary."
The second narrative is of the first wedding in Kittitas.
"Fred Bennett, an old German who lived on the other side of Wilson
Creek, used to come in pretty often and sample the free bottle that sat
on the shelf. I suggested one day that he better go slow or he would not be
able to get over the foot log across the creek. 'I chust bet you fife toller,' he
said, 'I can trink all in dot bottle and den valk ofer dot log.' It seemed to me a
good gamble, for if I won, I would be reimbursed for all the free whiskey he
had drunk. He finished the bottle and struck out for home, I following close
behind. He was so sure of himself and so happy that he was holding conver-
sation with himself thus : 'I haf got Jack dis time ; I yust get his visky and his
fife toller for noddings.' He came to the log. Straightening up, he set his
eyes on the opposite shore and started over. A little way out on the log, he
began to reel. A single cry, 'O Gott,' and the sound of splashing water told of
Bennett's bath — no doubt his first for many years. I pulled him out on his
own side of the creek and sent him home.
"On the way from Yakima to Kittitas lived Matthias Becker and his jewel
of a wife. Mrs. Becker had a heart full of goodness and an ability as cook
which could not be equalled in that neck of the woods. I flattered myself that
there always awaited me a welcome there, but what was my surprise, one day
in November, 1870, to be greeted at the Becker place by a cold stare. In the
house sat my friend, John Gillispie and Mrs. Becker's sister, Caroline Gerlick,
whom we all called Linnie. I wondered what I had done to lose their friend-
ship, but without inquiring, beat a hasty retreat to my horse, where stood my
friend Willie, patting him.
282 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
" 'Don't go, Mr. Splawn,' said Willie, 'John and Linnie are going to get
married and don't want any one to know.'
"That being the case, I returned to the house and sat down, remarking
that the unusually chilly atmosphere certainly boded ill for some one; if a catas-
trophe were hanging over the premises, I hoped to be near to avert it. Mrs.
Becker laughed then and said, 'We can't fool Jack and might just as well tell
him. We are waiting for the justice (my friend of the log-walking episode)
to marry this couple,' and she pointed to the bashful lovers sitting apart.
"A few moments later the Hon. Frederick Bennett arrived. He had rigged
up for the occasion in Ben Burch's old pants, a mite too short, and my best coat,
which fitted him likewise, but my shirt with a large striped collar set him off
for any social emergency. The ceremony was brief — 'Shoin your right hands.
By this you signify that you lofe one anuder. Py de laws of our country and
de bower in me, I bronounce you vife and vife.' I caught his eye and shook
my head. He hastened to correct the mistake with, 'I don"t mean dot : I means
husband and vife.'
"Thus was performed the first marriage ceremony in the Kittitas Valley."
With these experiences, tragic and humorous, strenuous and easy, accord-
ing to the times and seasons, with the lights and shadow's of pioneer life, the
communities of Yakima emerged from the chrysalis stage and appeared as a
full-grown county, and of that part of the life we speak in another chapter.
CHAPTER II
COUNTY MAKIMG AND OFFICIAL RECORDS OF THE MOTHER
COUNTY OF YAKIMA
AN ACT ESTABLISHING AND ORGANIZING YAKIMA COUNTY — ELECTION OF 1876
ELECTION OF 188^^ ELECTION OF 1888 FIRST ELECTION OF UNITED STATES
SENATOR — ELECTION OF 1892 ELECTION OF 1912 ELECTION OF 1916
GOVERNORS OF TERRITORY — TERRITORIAL DELEGATES IN CONGRESS OTHER
OFFICIALS UNDER TERRITORIAL GOVERNMENT ADDRESSES BY EX-GOVERNOR
MOORE AND GOVERNOR FERRY — FINANCIAL STATEMENT YAKIMA EXPORT
PRODUCTION SOME CONCLUDING STATISTICS
On March 3, 1853, the Congress of the United States created the Territory
of Washington, and soon following the President appointed Isaac I. Stevens
governor. A Territorial Legislature met promptly and look the steps neces-
sary to set the governmental machinery in motion. Sixteen counties were laid
out, fifteen of them west of the Cascade Mountains. The sixteenth was Walla
Walla and it was defined as follows : "Commencing its line on the north bank
of the Columbia River, opposite the mouth of the Des Chutes River, and rtm-
ning thence north to the forty-ninth parallel of Washington Territory between
this line and the Rocky Mountains."' That original Walla Walla County never
qualified, and since the Indian wars came on the next year, everything was sus-
pended, awaiting settled conditions.
In 1858 the Territorial Legislature laid out Spokane County, and that em-
braced the larger part of the first Walla Walla County. But that first Spokane
County also died "a-bornin," and in 1859, the Legislature brought into existence
another county in this uneasy and war- racked territory east of the mountains.
This was Klickitat, spelled in the legislative act Clikatat. The county included
the entire area between the Columbia River and Cascade Mountains. So mat-
ters rested for a time. In 1863 Congress laid out the new Territory of Idaho,
thus cutting ofif a large part of Washington on the east. In that same year the
county of Stevens was established to include the remaining area of the Terri-
tory of Washington east of the Columbia and north of the Snake. In the same
act one more county come into being, which has been lost in the mutations of
time and fate, so that not many know that it ever existed. That lost county
was Ferguson. By act of the legislature on January 12, 1863, a county with
that name was outlined with these boundaries: Simcoe Mountains on the south,
Cascade Mountains on the West, Walla Walla and Stevens counties on the east,
and the Wenatchee River on the north. Thus it will be seen that Ferguson
County covered practically the area of this history. Klickitat was reduced to
its present limits.
283
284 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
The legislative act named a set of officials for Ferguson County, only one
of whom, F. Mortimer Thorp, was an actual settler. At that time there were
not a hundred people living in the whole vast area, and they felt no need of the
incumbrance of a county government. Hence the appointees never qualified
and Ferguson, too, died "a-bornin."
Just two years after the creation of Ferguson County, another act was
passed repealing the first and establishing another to be known as Yakima
County. This was practically the same as Ferguson County, but the eastern
boundary was defined differently. The act named Charles Splawn, J. H.
Wilbur and William Parker as commissioners, Gilbert Pell as sheriff, William
Wright as auditor, and F. M. Thorp as treasurer. The house of William Wright
at Fort Simcoe was designated as the official seat. J. H. Wilbur at that time
had begun his long and useful career as Indian agent for the Yakima Reserva-
tion. The general inclination of the settlers was averse to a county organiza-
tion even yet, and especially were they disinclined to have the county head-
quarters tied up to the reservation. Hence the county program languished an-
other two years. In 1867 Governor Marshall F. Moore became insistent that
an organization be effected. He designated as the official headquarters the home
of F. M. Thorp in Moxee and appointed the following list of officers : C. P.
Cooke, F. M. Thorp and Alfred Henson for commissioners; Charles A. Splawn
for sheriff, J. W. Grant for auditor, and E. W. Lyen tor treasurer. Thus
Yakima County came into official existence.
For permanent reference the act of January 21, 186.S, creating the county
should appear in full, and we insert it at this point.
An Act
Establishing and Organizing the County of Yakima.
Be it enacted by the Legislative Assembly of the Territory of Washington:
Section I. That the territory heretofore embraced in the county of Ferguson,
lying and being south of a line running due west from a point two miles above
the lower steamboat landing at Priest's Rapids, on the Columbia River, to the
summit of the Cascade J^Iountains, be, and the same is hereby, constituted and
organized into a separate county, to be known as and called Yakima County.
Section 2. That said territory shall compose a county for civil and military
purposes, and be subject to all the laws relating to counties, and be entitled to
elect the same officers as other counties are entitled to elect.
Section 3. That, until the next general election, William Parker, J. H.
Wilbur and Charles Splawn be and are hereby appointed county commissioners ;
that William Wright be and is hereby appointed county auditor; that [F. M.]
Thorp be and is hereby appointed county treasurer, and Gilbert Pell be and is
hereby appointed sheriff, who shall, before entering upon the discharge of the
duties of their respective offices, qualify in the manner as is now required by law
for county officers.
Section 4. The county seat of said county of Yakima is temporarily
located at the house of William Wright.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 285
Section 5. That the said county of Yakima is attached for judicial pur-
poses and for the election of members of the Legislative Assembly, to the county
of Stevens.
Section 6. This act to take effect and be in force from and after its
passage.
Approved January 21, 1865.
A. J. Splawn was deputized to assess the property of the new county in 1868.
In his own account of it he says that he had no disputes with the people. "If
they were poor, I passed them up; if well-to-do, they set their own valuation.
We needed but little and wanted no surplus." The resuK of the election of
1868, the first in Yakima, was as follows: Alfred Henson, G. W. Allen and
Thomas Goodwin, commissioners; Charles A. Splawn, sheriff; John Lindsey,
assessor; E. W. Lyen, treasurer; S. C. Taylor, school superintendent; Henry
Davis, coroner.
The county seat was maintained at Mr. Thorp's house till his departure
for Kittitas in 1869. After having been at C. P. Cooke's house a short time,
the county seat became located at a building on a block given by Barker Broth-
ers, the first storekeepers at Yakima City. That first courthouse was a story
and a half structure, the upstairs being used for a courtroom and recorder's
office, while the sheriff's office and the jail were located below. In 1880 the
second "old courthouse" was built, but it was burned on March 31, 1882. Then
the third "old courthouse" came into being, and was moved to North Yakima in
1887.
At the time of the establishment of the county there had been no survey,
and the settlers were obliged to stake out their own claims. In 1864 Charles A.
White had run out the third standard parallel, but there were no subdivisions
surveyed. That work was undertaken in 1866 by L. P. Beach. He is said by
A. J. Splawn to have been an Olympia politician with all the qualifications of
that tribe. A few townships which he surveyed in Selah, Cowiche, Naches and
Ahtanum were found incorrectly laid out.
The mail service began in the primitive manner usual in the frontier. In
1867 the settlers arranged to take turns in going to Umatilla for mail. A year
later a bargain was made with a man named Parson to carry mail for the set-
tlers. Not till 1870 was there any government service. In 1875 a memorial
was addressed to the postmaster-general by the legislature of the Territory
asking for improved service. That memorial bears in an interesting way on the
conditions in Yakima in 1875. It sets forth that there were over 2,000 people
in the Yakima Valley and that the population was increasing very rapidly by
reason of gold discoveries, as well as by the rich agricultural and grazing lands,
that a large part of the inhabitants were destitute of any mail facilities and that
whatever sen'ice there was took very circuitous routes ; viz., by way of Wallula
and Umatilla over the foot hills of the Blue Mountains and via the Columbia
River to Puget Sound. The legislature therefore prayed that a route be estab-
lished from Seattle via the Snoqualmie Pass to EUensburgh, thence to Yakima
City, thence to Smith Bamum's at the mouth of the Yakima, and thence to
Wallula.
286 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
In connection with this enlarged mail service it is worthy of record that
in that same year of 1875 the settlers in the Yakima got together and made a
road over the Simcoe Mountains by way of Satus Creek, which met on the sum-
mit another road constructed from Goldendale by the Klickitat people. The
meeting of these two roads was almost as big an event to the settlers as the
meeting of the Union Pacific and Central Pacific with the driving of the golden
spike. A. J. Splawn speaks in picturesque language of the romantic history of
that road. Over it passed the first stage coaches and mails. Along its course
were strung the freight wagons and thousands of cattle. At the summit
Al Lillie kept a station where the best of meals were served, and where the
"angel face of Mrs. Lillie," as Mr. Splawn says, gave a beaming welcome to the
hungry traveller. The writer of this can testify to both meals and angel face
from the experience of a solitary journey of his own in 1880. The keen appe-
tite of a healthy youth found ample satisfaction in the abundant viands at the
Lillie roadhouse on the airy heights of the Simcoes. That famous road almost
fell into disuse for some time after the railroad came to Y'akima, but it is inter-
esting to note that it is, in some of its extent, born again for automobile traffic
in the present new era of transportation.
The political history of Yakima County has been, like that of the other
counties of the Territory and State, colored by the general questions of national
and state politics, with local considerations of its own. As the county was
founded during the period of the Civil War, there was naturally intense feeling
on that subject. It is rather curious that in Yakima, as also in Walla Walla,
the early settlers were mainly democrats, and there were a good many actual
southern sympathizers. We say curious, for the reason that both Yakima and
Walla Walla became later on overwhelmingly republican. Yet there was noth-
ing curious about it, after all. The early population of Oregon and Washing-
ton came largely from Missouri. While that great state remained with the
Union, and the fact that it did was one of the great factors in saving the Union,
yet Missouri had been a slave state and the people had largely the prejudices
against negroes engendered by the era of slavery. They were disposed there-
fore to look askance at "abolitionists and Black republicans," and during the
era just before the war were more inclined to follow Douglas than Lincoln as
a political guide. But as the war went on the great issues became more clear.
One of the most significant developments of American history is that the great
rank and file of the pioneer stock of Kentucky, Tennessee, Missouri and of the
free states adjoining them on the north, have been democratic in all the social
relations of life, and nationalist in politics. It could not in fact be otherwise.
The so-called Democracy of the Old South was not Democracy. Calhoun and
Davis never were real democrats at all. The name Democracy applied to the
element which led the South into secession was the greatest misnomer in our
national history. The South was an aristocracy, a feudalism, based on slavery
and social and political inequality. As the war progressed, the eyes of the
Western and Southwestern people, largely the offspring of the "Poor White"
class of the older South, became opened. They began to see the shallow oppor-
tunism of Douglas and the lofty nationalism and humanity of Lincoln. Prob-
ably the most effective stroke of statesmanship of all those great strokes which
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 287
have placed Lincoln in the forefront of the world's statesmen, was that series
of statements in his messages in 1861 and 1862, by which he convinced the great
body of the "plain people," as he liked to call them, that the attempt to disrupt
the Union was an attack on free labor, that slavery and disunion were based on
the postulate that labor was inferior to capital, that black slavery involved
white slavery also, that the whole animus of the Secession movement was to sus-
tain the old dogma of "the divine right of kings against the common rights of
humanity." The Missourians and other western immigrants to Oregon and
Washington were, unlike the slave-holders and secessionists of the old South,
real democrats. When they got a really distinct view of that bogus Democracy
of the secession movement and of the servitors among the "dough-face" northern
politicians, their transition to the support of Lincoln's nationalistic and emanci-
pation policies became rapid and decisive. It was that class of people that
helped the great President save the Union. Instead of being Douglas democrats
they became Lincoln republicans. That last category contained, be it observed,
the genuine democrats ; i. e., those who believed in "Government of the people,
by the people, and for the people."
It is again one of the most significant movements in our political history
that when in the judgment of that same class of people, those who think for
themselves, the republican party of twenty or thirty years later became the tool
of monopolistic interests in tariff and monetary measures, much as the old
democratic party had been the tool of slavery, they repudiated it also, and became
progressives and democrats, new democrats, and elected Woodrow Wilson pres-
ident. Wilson and Lincoln, with simple changes of party names, have had a
marvelous similarity of support, and to a marvelous degree have been the re-
vealers of similar stages of political evolution.
The settlers of Yakima and Walla Walla, like those or other parts of the
Northwest, went through those stages of political evolution ; democrats, repub-
licans, and democrats again ; all the time genuine Americans, liberty-loving,
free-souled, independent, thinking for themselves, not likely to be the cat's-paws
of political shysters, and hence offering poor material for the manipulations of
party bosses. Yaliima County and the counties carved from it have been active
in supporting those measures, initiative, referendum and recall, which have
liberated the people from the wire-pullers, as well as woman suffrage and pro-
hibition and allied measures, which have liberated the people from the preda-
tory classes. Of some of these movements we shall speak later.
Perhaps the greatest local questions in the political field have been poli-
cies pertaining to irrigation, to railroads and to county division. To these topics
we shall give space in later chapters.
We have named in preceding pages the official appointees in 1867. and the
results of the first election held in 1868. It may be noted here that all of those
first county officers were democrats. The vote in that election was very small.
For delegate to Congress, Frank Clark, democrat, received 25, to 19 for Alvin
Flanders, republican.
It is of interest to note the vote cast in 1870 for county seat. The results
were : Yakima City or "Mount Ottawa," 89 votes ; Flint's Store, 20 votes ; Selah,
18; Kittitas Valley, 3. A vote of the same time is recorded on the question of
288 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
a constitutional convention for a new state. The vote was overwhelmingly
negative, being 97 to 5. It is curious in looking over early political records to
see how persistently a certain small number of restless politicians kept agitating
the question of statehood, and how emphatically they were turned down
for so long a period. For twenty years that agitation was carried on.
The election of 1870 resulted thus : Delegate to Congress, James D. Mix, demo-
crat, 71, Selucius Garfielde, republican, 60; attorney, N. T. Caton, democrat, 69;
joint councilman with Skamania, Clark and Klickitat, S. B. Curtis, repubHcan,
64, E. S. Joslyn, democrat, 56: joint representative with Klickitat, H. V. Harper,
democrat, 69, H. D. Cock, republican, 55; probate judge, Alfred Henson, demo-
crat, 65, A. M. Miller, republican, 57 ; commissioners, John Beck, George Tay-
lor and C. P. Cooke, democrats, chosen over Purdy Flint, A. W. Bull and J. B.
Nelson, republicans ; auditor H. M. Benton, republican, chosen over G. W.
Parrish, democrat ; sheriff, Thomas Pierce, repubHcan, chosen over G. W.
Goodwin, democrat ; treasurer, E. W. Lyen, democrat, chosen over J. P.
Mattoon, republican ; assessor, William Lindsey, democrat, chosen over Charles
Harper, republican; surveyor, C. S. Irby; school superintendent, C. P. Cooke,
democrat, over Charles Reed, republican; coroner, W. P. Crosno, democrat, over
David Heaton, republican.
The election returns of 1872 are not found in full. The vote for delegate
to Congress was 129 for Selucius Garfielde, republican, to 122 for O. B. McFad-
den, democrat. R. O. Dunbar, republican, was chosen joint councilman over
B. F. Shaw, democrat, by 154 to 74. C. P. Cooke, democrat, was chosen joint
representative over R. Whitney, republican, by 170 to 7Z. T. J. Anders, repub-
lican, for joint attorney with Walla Walla received 139 to 108 for J. D. Mix.
It should be observed that there were three joint officers. Councilman in the leg-
islature was joint with Klickitat, Skamania and Clarke coimties. Representa-
tive was joint with Klickitat. Attorney was joint with Walla Walla and
Klickitat.
The election of 1874 was signalized by a "bolt" and hence possessed more
than ordinary interest. The bolt was in the republican ranks in respect to the
office of auditor. H. M. Benton was the "regular" nominee, and Edward Whit-
son became an opposition candidate under a party called the "people's party."
This was the first entrance into politics of Edward Whitson, who then began
his long and distinguished career as a lawyer and jurist, culminating in the
Federal judgeship for the Eastern district of Washington.
The results of the election of 1874 were as follows : Delegate to Congress,
Orange Jacobs, republican, 203, to 82 for B. L. Sharpstein, democrat; joint
councilman, B. F. Shaw, democrat, 127, to 84 for S. McDonald; joint represen-
tative, C. P. Cooke, democrat, 186, to 100 for D. J. Schnebly, republican; attor-
ney, J. V. Odell, democrat, 129, to 109 for T. J. Anders, republican ; commis-
sioners, Charles Walker and P. J- Flint, democrats, and J. B. Dickerson, repub-
lican, elected; sheriff, William Lewis, republican, chosen over L. L. Thorp,
democrat ; assessor, J. J. Burch, democrat ; treasurer, E. P. Boyls, democrat,
over T. McAusland, republican; auditor (and here was the crucial point of the
election), Edward Whitson of the people's party, 179, to 109 for H. M. Ben-
^K--^
FIU'IT TREES OF THE YAKIMA N' ALLEY
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 289
ton, republican ; school superintendent, J. O. Clark, republican, chosen over
T. S. Meade, democrat; J. R. Filkin for probate judge on the democratic ticket
was chosen over J. W. Stevenson of the people's party and J. B. Nelson of the
republicans ; coroner J. W. Allen, republican ; surveyor, C. A. Wilcox, demo-
crat ; both the last without opposition. The inevitable vote on constitutional
convention was taken, with a scanty number, 22 for and -1-1 against.
ELECTION OF 1876.
The election of 1876 showed the following results : For delegate to Con-
gress, Orange Jacobs, republican, received 169 to 109 for his democratic oppo-
nent, J. P. Judson; for joint councilman, Levi Farnsworth, republican, re-
ceived an overwhelming majority ; for joint representative, Edward Whitson,
republican, had 133 to 114 for S. T. Sterling, democrat, and 22 for T. B.
Barnes ; for commissioners, J. P. Sharp, Samuel Chappell, J. J. Lewis, repub-
licans, and David Longmire, democrat, were chosen; sheriff, J. K. Milligan,
independent, was chosen over J. J. Burch, democrat, and George Carpenter,
republican; for auditor, J. W. Masters, republican, was chosen; treasurer, A. J.
Pratt was the successful candidate ; James Kesling, republican, chosen for pro-
bate judge; for school superintendent, J. P. Marks, republican; surveyor, C. A.
Wilcox, democrat ; coroner, J. W. Allen, republican. There was a remarkable
change in the vote for constitutional convention this year, being 44 yes, 1 no.
The election of 1878 might be considered a quiet one. There was a steady
growth and no "burning" local issue.
The results of the election were these : Delegate to Congress, Thomas H.
Brents, republican, 212, N. T. Caton, democrat, 208; joint councilman, R. O.
Dunbar, republican, 209, to 201 for Hiram Dustin, democrat ; joint representa-
tive, Levi Farnsworth, republican, 222, to 183 for C. P. Cooke, democrat; attor-
ney, W. G. Langford, republican, 220. to 192 for R. F. Sturdevant, democrat;
other successful candidates were : L. H. Brooks, probate judge ; J. W. Masters,
auditor; sheriff and assessor (one offTJcer performing both duties), F. D.
Schnebly; David Longmire, A. A. Meade and A. J. McDaniel for commission-
ers ; treasurer, A. J. Pratt ; G. W. Parrish, school superintendent ; A. J. McKin-
ney for coroner; Levi Farnsworth, surveyor; on constitutional convention, 210
for and 90 against.
The rapid growth of the valley showed itself in the election of 1880. The
vote for Congressional delegates showed an increase over 1878 from 420 to 595.
For delegate, Thomas H. Brents was reelected by 311 to 284 for Thomas Burke,
his democratic opponent. The results of the election to other positions were as
follows : For joint councilman, J. W. Greden, republican, 308, to 270 for William
Bigham, democrat; representative, George S. Taylor, democrat, 315, to 259 for
J. A. Shoudy, republican: attorney, D. P. Ballard, republican, 332, to 234
for E. P. Boyls, democrat ; local candidates chosen : L. H. Brooks, probate judge ;
S. T. Munson, auditor; F. D. Schnebly, sheriff and assessor; G. J. Gervais,
treasurer; W. G. Douglass, Robert Dunn, and A. J. McDaniel for commission-
ers ; W. H. Peterson, school superintendent ; I. A. Navarre, surveyor ; M.
Beeker, sheep commissioner; and C. J. Taft, coroner. Of the above local offi-
cers, Messrs. Brooks, Schnebly, Gervais, McDaniel and Peterson were demo-
(19)
290 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
crats, while Messrs. Munson, Douglass, Dunn, Navarre, Beeker, and Taft were
republicans.
At their meeting of August 9, 1882, the commissioners laid out three com-
missioner districts, of which the first embraced the central and older portion
from Union Gap and including the Ahtanum, Cowiche, Naches and Wenas
valleys to its eastern boundary on the Yakima River, the second included the
Umptanum and Kittitas regions and eastward to the Columbia River, while the
third embraced the remaining sections ; i. e., the southern and southeastern
parts. In 1882 also, the county was divided into twelve precincts with voting
places as follows: The Horn at James Baxter's residence, Parker at the school-
house, Yakima City at the courthouse, Cowiche at the schoolhouse, Ahtanum at
the Marks schoolhouse, Wenas at the schoolhouse. West Kittitas at the Pack-
wood schoolhouse. East Kittitas at Ellensburg, Peshastin at Lockwood and
Cooper's, Simcoe at the agency. Alder Creek at the Beckner schoolhouse, Moxee
at Charles Splawn's house.
In the election of 1882 the inevitable question of county division came to
the front. It is a little singular that any of the residents of so huge a county as
Yakima before division could have expected to defer division for any length
of time. But apparently the prospect of division is always distasteful to
the older sections of a county and especially to the county seat. The struggle
for the division of Yakima came in such a form as to make opposition at the
county seat inevitable. A movement arose at Ellensburg and in the Kittitas
Valley to move the county seat to that place or else to force a division of the
county. In fact the election of 1880 had turned largely on that issue and the
vote, 315, by which Taylor, a democrat, for the legislature, had defeated Shoudy,
a republican, with 259, represented about the relative strength of the two sec-
tions on the county question. Shoudy was the father of Ellensburg, and the
fear that, if he were in the legislature, he would put through an act providing
for removal of the county seat, caused a good many republicans in the Yakima
City section to vote for the democratic candidate. Their fears were well
founded, for in the election of 1882, Shoudy and Taylor ran for the legislature
again on the same issue, and this time all the democrats in the Kittitas voted
for Shoudy, with the result that he was elected, and by a curious coincidence
he had precisely the same majority, fifty-six, which Taylor had in 1880. Shoudy
put into immediate execution the purpose for which he was supposed to be
running, and in 1883, Kittitas County was cut ofif from Yakima. We shall give
further details of this event in the chapter on Kittitas County. The delegate
chosen to Congress in 1882 was the republican, Thomas H. Brents, by a vote of
478 to 301 for Thomas Burke, the democrat. The county officers chosen were
J. W. Masters, David Murray, and S. R. Geddis, all republicans, for commis-
sioners ; J. J. Taylor, sheriff and assessor; J. A. Splawn, treasurer; I. A. Navarre,
probate judge; S. T. Munson, auditor; T. H. Look, surveyor; A. D. Eglin, sheep
commissioner. All were republicans except Mr. Splawn.
ELECTION OF 1884.
The election of 1884 was a strenuous one. That was the year of the com-
pletion of the Northern Pacific Railroad to Yakima. The railroad was many
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 291
years behind the time aUotted for earning the immense land grant extending
from St. Paul to Taconia. Agitation for cancellation of that vast land subsidy
had spread across the entire line of road. Furthermore there arose a burning
question of local interest. That was the question of moving Yakima City to a
new site a few miles north. This last question was not fully uncovered till the
next year, but it was on the boards. These questions made a hot election in the
fall of 1884. An anti-monopoly party sprung into being, led by one of the
brightest men ever known in Yakima, J. M. Adams, editor of the Yakima
Signal. The anti-monopoly republicans and democrats joined in the nomination
of Charles Voorhees as candidate for Congress on a platform demanding can-
cellation of the unearned portion of the railroad land grant. There was a vote
of 41,858 for delegate in the Territory, but nearly a fourth were supposed to
be cast by women, for the temporary Woman Suffrage law of the Territory had
gone into effect. Voorhees received a majority in the Territory of 248 over
Armstrong, the republican candidate. This result may be considered as in some
degree marking the beginning of that great wave of anti-railroad legislation
which was destined to sweep the country in subsequent years and materially
affect our entire economic policies. The Territory was normally strongly repub-
lican, and the election of a democrat was a plain notice to the republicans that
they were catering too much to corporate interests. There are those at the
present day who think that this popular movement against railroads has gone
altogether too far. When, however, the student of history surveys the shame-
less lobbying of the railway managers, the stupendous legislative favors and
subsidies secured by them, and the yet vaster ones sought, he is constrained to
decide that if the railroads have had a hard deal they brought it on themselves
and deserved it all.
In Yakima County Voorhees received 582 votes to 448 for Armstrong.
J. B. Reavis of Yakima was chosen joint councilman, C. P. Cooke of Kittitas
was chosen joint representative. Both were democrats. The local officers
chosen were as follows : Hiram Dustin attorney, J. J. Tyler sheriff, S. T.
Munson auditor, J. A. Splavvn treasurer, L. H. Brooks probate judge, W. F.
Jones school superintendent, C. F. Reardon surveyor, J. M. Young, P. J. Flint
and L. N. Rice, commissioners. John Cowan was appointed sheep commis-
sioner, in the absence of an elected incumbent.
The year 1886 saw the settlement of the bitterly contested question of the
removal of the county seat from Yakima City to North Yakima. The legisla-
ture of January of that year passed an act providing for the removal. This
question of removal, involving so much strife, and having legal as well as busi-
ness and political complications, belongs rather to the history of the city, and
the topic will be considered in the chapter on city history.
The election of 1886 resulted in the reelection of Charles Voorhees to Con-
gress by an increased vote. His vote in Yakima county was 667 to 359 for C.
M. Bradshaw, the republican candidate. C. P. Cooke, democrat, was chosen
joint councilman over S. A. Wells, republican, by 633 to 386. G. W. Goodwin,
democrat, was chosen representative by 590 to 405 for T. J. Clarke, but Mr.
Clarke had the majority in the district. One of the most prominent of Yakima's
citizens in law and politics began his official career in that election by choice to
292 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY v
the position of attorney. This was H. J. Snively, a democrat. Another of the
leaders of enterprise appears for the first time on the otiicial roll. This was
Daniel Lesh, republican, chosen for sheriff. Yet another of the builders makes
his entry here. This was W. F. Prosser for auditor. The other local officers
chosen were: J. A. Splawn treasurer, S. C. Morford probate judge, Mrs. M. B.
Curtis school superintendent, J. A. Leach surveyor, Thomas McAusland coro-
ner, W. H. Lipstrap, J. A. Stephenson and F. K. Beard, commissioners. A
special election held in June, 1886, to vote on the question of local prohibition
of the liquor traffic resulted in a large affirmative vote in Yakima County.
ELECTION OF 1888.
The election of 1888 was marked by something of a reaction in both na-
tional and local affairs. The "protection" interests came back and elected a
high tariff' group as a protest against the supposed free trade tendencies of
Cleveland's first administration. As part of the same movement the strenuous
anti-monopoly delegate to Congress from this state, Charles Voorhees, was
defeated by John B. Allen, republican, by a vote in Yakima County of 461 to
398. Mr. Allen was a resident of Yakima City for a snort time, being in the
law firm of Whitson, Allen and Parker, whose office was in the First National
Bank Building in North Yakima. Mr. Allen had removed to Walla Walla
though still a member of the firm and was a resident of that city at the time
of his first election as delegate. With that election he began his distinguished
career which went on from that of delegate to senator. The joint councilman
(joint with Klickitat County) was J. M. Snow, republican, chosen by 439 votes
over Clay Fruit, democrat, with 408. Representative was I. N. Power, repub-
lican, with 398 against Daniel Gaby, democrat, with 352, and John W. Brice,
independent, with 158. There were prohibitionist and independent candidates
throughout both state and county tickets. The local choices in 1888 were as
follows: H. J. Snively attorney, D. W. Stair probate judge, D. E. Lesh sheriff',
Matthew Bartholet auditor, G. W. Gary treasurer, James Hall surveyor, Hilda
Engdahl school superintendent, Walter Griffith sheep commissioner, J. O. Clark
coroner, John Cleman, H. D. Winchester and J. M. Brown commissioners. Of
the above Messrs. Snively, Bartholet, Gary and Miss Engdahl were democrats,
the others were republicans.
And now comes the great year of 1889, the year of statehood. All the
counties and communities of the Territory were agog with excitement over the
great change of political status. After the persistent eft'orts of twenty years the
slow-focusing attention of Congress had been fixed on this and several other
Territories as ripe for mature political life. There had been sundry earlier
attempts to induct Washington into the Union with some changes of boundary.
One favorite idea, which has been agitated from time to time since, was to join
northern Idaho to Washington, or to make a new state cf eastern Washington
and northern Idaho, or still again to effect some new groupings of eastern Ore-
gon, eastern Washington and different sections of Idaho. The "Spokesman-
Review" of Spokane made quite an agitation in that line in about 1905 and 1906.
But all such schemes have been quiescent for more than ;i decade.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 293
To turn back in time again we notice that in the congressional session of
1877-78, Delegate Orange Jacobs presented a bill for introducing Washington
to statehood with the three counties of northern Idaho added. But no action
was taken by Congress. In spite of that the Territorial Legislature in Novem-
ber, 1877, passed a law providing for an election to be held April 9, 1878, to
choose delegates to a convention to meet at Walla Walla on June 11, 1878. Up
to that time, as we have seen, repeated attempts to secure a vote for a conven-
tion had failed in Walla Walla. The act of the legislature provided that the
convention should consist of fifteen members from Washington with one, hav-
ing no vote, from Idaho.
In pursuance of the announcement the election was duly held, though with
the scanty vote of 4,223, not half the number of voters in the Territory. The
convention duly met at Science Hall in Walla Walla, and W. A. George of that
city, one of the leading lawyers as well as one of the most unique characters of
the Inland Empire, acted as temporary chairman.
The permanent organization consisted of A. S. Abemethy of Cowlitz
County as president, W. B. Daniels and William Clark as secretaries, and H. D.
Cook as sergeant-at-arms. After a lengthy session the convention submitted a
constitution which was voted upon at the next general election in November.
Though a considerable majority was secured, exactly two-thirds, the total vote
of 9,693 fell considerably short of the vote cast for delegate, and it seems to
have been generally interpreted in Congress as evidence that the people of the
Territory did not consider the time ripe for statehood. The whole matter was
therefore indefinitely postponed. But the immense growth of the Territory in
the decade of the eighties made it clear that the time for admission had arrived.
The Enabling Act of Congress, approved by President Harrison on Feb-
ruary 22, 1889, had the unique distinction of being the only one providing for
the erection of four states at once. These were Washington, South Dakota, :
North Dakota and Montana. As indicating the fundamental basis on which the
four states rest, the reader will be interested in the following provisions of the
enabling act :
"And said conventions shall provide by ordinances irrevocable without the
consent of the United States and the people of said states;
"FIRST. That perfect toleration of religious sentiment shall be secured,
and that no inhabitant of said states shall ever be molested in person or prop-
erty on account of his or her mode of religious worship.
"SECOND. That the people inhabiting said proposed states do agree and
declare that they forever disclaim all right and title to the unappropriated public
lands lying within the boundaries thereof, and to all lands lying within said
limits owned or held by any Indian or Indian tribes; and that until the title
thereto shall have been extinguished by the United States, the same shall be
and remain subject to the disposition of the United States, and said Indian
lands shall remain under the absolute jurisdiction and control of the Congress
of the United States ; that the lands belonging to citizens of the United States
residing without the said state shall never be taxed at a higher rate than the
lands belonging to residents thereof: that no taxes shall be imiwsed by the states
294- HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY (
on lands or property therein belonging to or which may hereafter be purchased
by the United States or reserved for its use. But nothing herein, or in the ordi-
nances herein provided for, shall preclude the said states from taxing as other
lands are taxed, any lands owned or held by any Indian who has severed his
tribal relations, and has obtained from the United States or from any person a
title thereto by patent or other grant, save and except such lands as have been
or may be granted to any Indian or Indians under any act of Congress contain-
ing a provision exempting the lands thus granted from taxation ; but said ordi-
nances shall provide that all such lands shall be exempt from taxation by said
states so long and to such extent as such act of Congress may prescribe.
"THIRD. That the debts and liabilities of said territories shall be assumed
and paid by said states respectively.
"FOURTH. That provision shall be made for the establishment and
maintenance of systems of public schools, which shall be open to all the children
of said states and free from sectarian control."
In accordance with the enabling act, the constitutional convention of Wash-
ington Territory met at Olympia, July 4, 1889. The constitution prepared dur-
ing the fifty-day session was ratified at the polls on October 1, 1889. The mem-
bers of the constitutional convention from the Yakima Valley were as follows:
From Kittitas, J. A. Shoudy and Austin Mires of Ellensburg, republicans, and
J. T. McDonald, democrat ; from Yakima, J. T. Eshelman, democrat, and W. F.
Prosser, republican.
The proclamation of President Harrison making known the formal en-
trance of Washington into statehood possesses permanent mterest and we in-
clude it here :
"Whereas, the Congress of the United States did by an act approved on
the twenty-second day of February, one thousand eight hundred and eighty-
nine, provide that the inhabitants of the territory of Washington might, upon
the conditions prescribed in said act, become the state of Washington ;
"And whereas, it was provided by said act that delegates elected as therein
provided, to a constitutional convention in the territory of Washington, should
meet at the seat of government of said territory; and that, after they had met
and organized they should declare on behalf of the people of Washington that
they adopt the constitution of the United States : whereupon the said conven-
tion should be authorized to form a state government for the proposed state of
Washington ;
"And whereas, it was provided by said act that the constitution so adopted
should be republican in form and make no distinction in c'vil or political rights
on account of race or color, except as to Indians not taxed, and not be repug-
nant to the constitution of the United States and the principles of the declara-
tion of independence ; and that the convention should by an ordinance irre-
vocable without the consent of the United States and the people of said state
make certain provisions prescribed in said act;
"And whereas, it was provided by said act that the constitution thus formed
for the people of Washington should, by an ordinance of the convention form-
ing the same, be submitted to the people of Washington at an election to be
held therein on the first Tuesday in October, eighteen hundred and eighty-nine.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 295
for ratification or rejection by the qualified voters of said proposed state; and
that the returns of said election should be made to the secretary of said terri-
tory, who, with the governor and chief justice thereof, cr any two of them,
should canvass the same ; and if a majority of the legal votes cast should be for
the constitution, the governor should certify the result to the president of the
United States, together with a statement of the votes cast thereon, and upon
separate articles or propositions, and a copy of said constitution, articles, propo-
sitions and ordinances ;
"And whereas, it has been certified to me by the governor of said territory
that within the time prescribed by said act of Congress a constitution for the
proposed state of Washington has been adopted and that the same has been
ratified by a majority of the qualified voters of said proposed state in accord-
ance with the conditions prescribed in said act;
"And whereas, it is also certified to me by the said governor that at the
same time the body of said constitution was submitted to a vote of the people
two separate articles entitled 'Woman Suffrage' and 'Prohibition' were likewise
submitted, which said separate articles did not receive a majority of the votes
cast thereon or upon the constitution and were rejected ; also that at the same
election the question of the location of a permanent seat of government was so
submitted and that no place received a majority of all the votes cast upon said
question ;
"And whereas, a duly authenticated copy of said constitution and articles,
as required by said act, has been received by me ;
"Now, therefore, I, Benjamin Harrison, president of the United States of
America, do, in accordance with the provisions of the act of Congress afore-
said, declare and proclaim the fact that the conditions imposed by Congress on
the state of Washington to entitle that state to admission to the union have been
ratified and accepted and that the admission of the said state into the union is
now complete.
"In testimony whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and caused the seal
of the United States to be affixed.
"Done at the city of Washington this eleventh (11th) day of November,
in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and eighty-nine, and of the
independence of the United States of America the one hundred and fourteenth.
[seal] Benj. Harrison.
By the president :
James G. Blaine, Secretary of State."
The constitution provided that a special election be held on the first Tues-
day of October, 1889, to vote upon the adoption of the constitution and also
to choose the officers provided for under it. The legislative apportionment for
that election assigned one representative to Yakima County and one senator to
the ninth district composed of Yakima and Douglas counties. Kittitas County
had two representatives and one senator. It will surprise some of our readers
to know that Kittitas County had a larger population than Yakima. The census
of 1890 gives 4,429 in Yakima County, and 8,777 in Kittitas. Some territory
belonged to Kittitas in 1889 and 1890 which was in Okanogan County in 1892,
296 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY (
in which year Kittitas shows a decrease. Still later the Wenatchee became part
of Chelan County. However, Ellensburgh had a larger population than North
Yakima in 1889.
In the special election of 1889 Yakima County cast its first vote for a con-
gressman, 581 for John L. Wilson to 494 for Thomas Gritfits. The vote for the
first governor was 537 for E. P. Ferry, republican, to 519 for Eugene Semple,
democrat. The other state offices show about the same results, republicans re-
ceiving some majority in each case, with the exception tliat H. J. Snively, one
of Yakima's prominent and favorite sons, had a vote for attorney-general of
547 to 518 for W. C. Jones, a liberal republican. Mr. Jones ("Wheat Chart"
Jones) was elected in the state. The first representative to the State Legisla-
ture was John Cleman, republican, chosen over David Longmire, democrat, by
544 to 523. The joint senator was J. M. Snow, republican, 538, to 523 for R.
M. Starr, democrat. C. B. Graves, republican, was chosen superior judge, by
620 to 425 for Hiram Dustin. The constitution provided for a clerk of the
court, and Dudley Eshelman was chosen to this position by 562 to 491 for Rich-
ard Strobach, a republican victory. As will be seen the republicans carried
everything with the exception of the vote for attorney-general. The result was
not, however, by decided majorities, and it denoted a well-balanced political
situation. The constitution provided a special vote on three important matters.
One was the location of the capital, another was a woman suffrage article and
a third was a prohibition article. In view of later results the vote on woman
sufifrage and prohibition furnish food for reflection. The vote in the state for
the adoption of the constitution was 38,394 to 11,895. The woman suffrage
article was defeated 34,342 to 16,855. The prohibition article was defeated
31,881 to 19,241. The three candidates for state capital were North Yakima,
Ellensburgh, and Olympia. A strong sentiment had developed east-of-the-
mountains, and even in places on the west side, that the capital should be moved.
If the opposition to Olympia had centered on one of the two Yakima points the
change would have carried. But Ellensburgh and North Yakima defeated each
other. North Yakima received 14,707 votes ; Ellensburgh, 12,833 ; and Olympia,
25,488. Since Olympia failed of a majority of all votes the question remained
open for another election.
The good state of Washington was now in official existence. The material
growth during the decade of the eighties had been prodigious. A few figures
will illustrate the change. In 1880 the state had 75,116 people; in 1890, 349,390.
In 1880 Walla Walla was the largest town in the Territor\-, with 3,588. Seattle
had 3,533; Spokane, 350; Tacoma, 1,098; North Yakima, 0. In 1890, Seattle
had 42,837; Tacoma, 36,006; Spokane, 19,922; Walla Walla, 4,709: Ellensburgh,
2,768; North Yakima, 1,535. The assessed valuation in 1880 was $134,342,162.
In 1890 the valuation was $314,247,419.
With so great a material development it naturally followed that ambitious
politicians, grafters and lobbyists rushed in alongside of the genuinely enter-
prising, honest and patriotic. The new state therefore became the battle ground
of all sorts of factions, "pros and antis" of all orders. Moreover, the "great
depression," the reaction from the overly active speculation of the previous
decade, was at hand. In both national and state matters the harvest of wild oats.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 297
sowed by the lobbies, syndicates, trusts and monopolies sprouting out of the
railroad complications of an era of speculation, was ready for cutting, and it
was plain to discerning men that the wheat was going to have a hard time among
the noxious growths. The elections of 1892, 1894 and 1896 showed the tremen-
dous growth of populism with its allied agencies as the proper reaction against
the era of graft. But the election of 1890 led by natural degrees to it.
That election in Yakima County resulted in a small majority for John L.
Wilson for Congress. The legislature chosen in 1889 had provided a new
apportionment by which Yakima and Klickitat counties constituted the twelfth
district, entitled to. one senator, and Yakima County was to be the nineteenth
representative district, entitled to one representative. In pursuance of this ap-
portionment J- T. Eshelman, democrat, became senator by 574 votes to 468 for
D. \V. Pierce, his republican opponent. H. J. Snively, democrat, was chosen
representative by 544 votes to 515 for B. F. Young, republican. The local
ofTficers chosen were these : Myron H. Ellis for auditor, D. W. Simmons sheriff,
F. D. Eshelman clerk, G. O. Nevin treasurer, E. A. Sh.nnnafelt assessor, J. A.
Rockford attorney, J. G. Lawrence superintendent of schools, W. H. Redman
surveyor. Jay Chambers coroner, F. Kandle, John Reed, and Joseph Stephenson,
commissioners, and S. J. Cameron sheep commissioner. Every one of the local
ofificers above was a republican except Mr. Stephenson, commissioner for the
third district. The vote on the state capital was for North Yakima 949; for
Olympia, 30; for Ellensburgh, 14. The result in the state for the capital was
37,413 for Olympia, 7,722 for Ellensburgh and 6,276 for North Yakima. The
"Oyster center" became therefore permanently the capital of Washington.
As we pass on to the election of 1892, the first in which Washington partic-
ipated in a presidential election, we find the great Populist movement gathering
its forces from varied sources, all animated by a common sense of hostility to
the group of policies which seemed to center in the "money interests" and cor-
poration lobbies. As might be expected from the type of people and occupa-
tions— almost entirely pastoral and agricultural — which made up the population
of Yakima, that county was a powerful center of independent and populistic
thought. The Knights of Labor took the initiative in the direction of a union
of forces for a new party by a meeting in North Yakima on July 17, 1891. Rep-
resentatives of the Farmers' Alliance, Good Templars, and Trades Unions
joined in the movement. Meanwhile a formal organization of the "people's
party" had been effected on July 13. The two organizations acted substantially
together in the next three elections, and in 1894 and 1896, the general body of
democrats, as well as the very active wing of republicans known as Silver repub-
licans, threw their energies into the same channel. The result was that the
republicans in Yakima, republican as it usually had been, though not by great
majorities, were entirely overwhelmed, and in this county, as in the state, the
"three-ring circus" of populists, democrats and silver republicans, carried every-
thing in sight.
Before proceeding to a view of the election returns of Yakima County from
1892 to the date of this work, there is one event in state politics so interesting in
its constitutional bearings as to make it worthy of special note. Moreover, it
brings up to mind the name o fa man whose career began in Yakima, and who
298 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY v
became known and honored throughout the state. We refer to the senatorial
situation and to John B. Allen.
FIRST ELECTION OF UNITED STATES SENATOR
In the first election of United States senator, November, 1889, John B.
Allen of Walla Walla and Watson C. Squire were chosen, the former drawing
the four-year-term which entitled him to the place until March 4, 1893. The
senatorial election of 1893 was one of the most extraordinary in the history of
such elections and involved a number of distinguished men in this section of the
state. The fundamental struggle was between the adherents, of John B. Allen
of Walla Walla and George Turner of Spokane, both republicans. It became a
factional fight of the bitterest type. One hundred and one ballots were taken
unavailingly and then the legislature adjourned sine die, with no choice.
Upon the failure of the legislature to elect. Governor McGraw appointed
John B. Allen to fill the vacancy. Proceeding to Washington Mr. Allen pre-
sented his case to the senate, but in that case, as in others, that body decided,
and very properly, that the state must go unrepresented until the legislature
could perform its constitutional duties. It is safe to say that that experience
with similar ones in other states, was one of the great influences in causing the
amendment to the constitution providing for direct electiori by the people. The
spectacle of the legislature neglecting its law-making functions to wrangle over
the opposing ambitions of senatorial aspirants, fatally impaired the confidence
of the people in the wisdom of the old method of choice. That amendment may
be regarded also as one of the striking manifestations of American political
evolution, in which there has come a recognition of the danger of legislative
bodies, chosen by popular suflfrage, becoming the tools of personal or corporate
interests instead of the servants of the people who chose them, and by which,
in consequence, the evils of popular government are being remedied by being
made more popular.
ELECTION OF 1892
And now we reach the interesting election of 1892, the first in which Wash-
ington voted for president.
It is valuable to note here the precincts as they existed in the year 1892.
They are as follows: Kennewick, Kiona, Alder Creek, Red Rock, Lone Tree,
Parker, Moxee, Yakima City, Ahtanum, Tampico, Wide Hollow, North
Yakima No. 1, North Yakima No. 2, Cowiche, Naches, Wenas, Simcoe.
In 1892, beginning with President, we find the foUov/ing results:
PRESIDENTIAL ELECTORS.
Republican Democrat Populist Prohibitionist
Geo. V. Calhoun John M. Stearns Wm. Lee, Sr. H. X. Belt
John S. McMillan Louis H. Platter Jas. Bassett J.W.Peter
Ignatius A. Navarre Franklyn D. Arnold T. T. Barrows D. R. Bigelow
Chester F. White Louis K. Church Wm. J. Caldwell A. McReady
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 299
CONGRESSMEN
Republican Democrat Populist Prohibitionist
W. M. Doolittle James A. Mundy J. C. VanPatten C. E. Newberry
John L. Wilson Thos. Carroll M. F. Knox A. C. Dickinson
The highest vote for presidential elector of the republicans was 630, of
the democrats 502, of the populists 375, and of the prohibitionists 14, giving
the republicans a majority over the democrats, although much less than a ma-
jority over all. Of the congressional candidates, John L. Wilson with 602 votes
and W. M. Doolittle with 601, were elected over their democratic opponents,
of whom Mr. Carroll received 539 and Mr. Mundy 518, while the populists
received 368 and 361 respectively, with the prohibitionists in the rear with a
number of 14 and 12 respectively.
Of the state candidates we find the following reports: For supreme judge
the republican candidates were Thomas J. Anders and Elmon Scott, of the
democrats Eugene K. Hanna and William H. Brinker, and of the populists
Frank T. Reid and E. W. Gardener. Their votes in the order given were as
follows: 619, 593, 494, 472, 349, 341. From the above it appears that the re-
publicans were also successful in their candidates in the election for Supreme
Court.
The nominees for governor were the following: John H. McGraw, re-
publican, Henry J. Snively democrat, C. W. Young populist, Roger S. Greene
prohibitionist. It is a tribute to Mr. Snively as a citizen of Yakima County
that he received a majority of 100 over Mr. McGraw in the county, although
Mr. McGraw was elected in the state, the votes in Yakima County being respec-
tively 604 and 504.
The republican candidate for lieutenant-governor, Frank H. Luce, was
chosen in the county by a vote of 571 to 513 for his democratic competitor.
The same general result obtained in the other state offices. For secretary of
state James H. Price, republican, had 605 to 489 for his democratic opponent.
The state treasurer, Ozro A. Bowen, had 605 votes to 485 for the democratic
candidate. For state auditor Laban R. Grimes had 606 votes to 482 for the
democratic candidate. For attorney-general, one of the brilliant political fig-
ures of the state of Washington, "Wheat Chart" Jones, who afterwards became
one of the leaders of the silver republicans, was chosen by a vote of 563 to 524
for his democratic competitor. For superintendent of public instruction Charles
W. Bean, republican, received 592 to 495 for his democratic opponent. For
commissioner of public lands, William T. Forrest with 595 votes carried off the
honors from his democratic opponent by over 100 votes, and by almost the
same vote, Oliver C. White was chosen state printer.
It is interesting to note that in this election of 1892 the populists had an
average vote of about 360, while the prohibitionists had a trifling vote of 10
to 18. This fact is the more interesting in view of the subsequent disappearance
of the populist party and the state-wide triumph at a later date of the prohibi-
tionists in the cause which they advocated.
300 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY ,
Of the Yakima County officials chosen in the election of 1892, the repub-
licans were entirely in the lead. The average vote is well indicated from the
votes given for the judge of the Superior Court, as follows: Republican, Carroll
B. Graves, 683; Frank H. Rudkin, democrat, 448; Lawrence A. Vincent, popu-
ist, 327, making a total vote of 1,458. In this election A. B. Weed became rep-
resentative from the nineteenth district, J. A. Rochford county attorney, J. M.
Brown county clerk, Myron H. Ellis county auditor, G. O. Nevin county treas-
urer, E. W. Simmons sheriff, O. V. Carpenter assessor, J. G. Lawrence super-
intendent of schools, William H. Redman surveyor, Richard Sisk sheep com-
missioner, for county commissioners, Frank J. Kandle, John H. Hubbard and
W. A. Kelso, and for county coroner J. O. Clark.
For the prohibition amendment there were 234, and 745 against, an inter-
esting item in view of the fact that Yakima County became later the banner
prohibitionist county.
We have given in the preceding election the figures with more fullness than
we shall give in the subsequent ones on account of its being the first state elec-
tion on record and in order to give a proper view of the general line-up of the
parties at that time.
In the election of 1894, the republican candidates for Congress, William
A. Doolittle, with 860 votes, a lead of 11 over his running mate, Samuel C.
Hyde, had good majorities, while the populist candidates surpassed the demo-
crats by heavy majorities. R. O. Dunbar and M. J. Gordon, republicans, had a
majority of over 300 over their populist competitors and ever 400 over the dem-
ocrats, for Supreme Court judges.
Of the county candidates for this election we find Daniel E. Lesh, repub-
lican, leading the democratic candidate George S. Taylor by a majority of 5,
having 918 votes. As indicating the growth of the county it is interesting to
observe that the vote for joint senator totals 1,83L R. B. Milroy was chosen
representative for the legislature by a majority of 92 over his democratic com-
petitor and of 99 over the populist candidate. In this election the following
were chosen to the regular county offices: Sheriff', A. L. Dilley ; auditor. F. C.
Hall; treasurer, Matthew Bartholet ; clerk, J. M. Brown; attorney, Glen G.
Dudley; assessor, O. V. Carpenter; school superintendent, J. F. Brown; sheep
commissioner, R. Sisk; coroner, E. E. Heg; commissioners, Joseph Stephenson
and Nelson Rich.
Of the above all were republicans except Mr. Bartholet as treasurer and
Mr. Stephenson as commissioner.
With 1896 we come to one of the most exciting and significant elections
in the history of the nation. This was the year of the "Cross of Gold" presi-
dential election, and the populist movement swept Yakima County along with
most of the Western portion of the United States. Of the presidential electors
for the state, the highest populist vote in the county was 1,219, the highest re-
publican was 948, while the highest democratic. Judge Burke, one of the most
prominent of all citizens of the state, received only the pitiful little vote of 47.
The successful congressional candidates both in the state and in the county,
were those two spectacular figures of Washington politics, James Hamilton
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 301
Lewis and William C. Jones. The former had a vote of 1,236 and the latter
1,226 in the county, to 925 and 928 for their republican opponents, while the
democratic vote was hardly large enough to count. The county gave a vote of
1,246 to that great statesmen of the populist party, John R. Rogers, for gover-
nor. The other state offices present about the same general results.
The county offices for the election of 1896 show a similar populist triumph.
The democratic party practically disappeared and the combination defeated the
republican candidates by majorities averaging about 300. The successful can-
didates were as follows : Sheriff, A. J. Shaw ; clerk, J. R. Coe ; auditor, A. B.
Flint; treasurer, Matthew Bartholet ; attorney. Vestal Snyder; assessor, T. A.
Lasswell ; superintendent, F. H. Plumb ; surveyor, H. F. Marble ; coroner,
Lewis Ker; sheep commissioner, R. Mans; commissioners, Charles Carpenter
and W. B. Mathews.
The election of 1898 shows a return to the more normal political conditions,
since the republican party began to come back again and we find one of the
distinguished citizens of Yakima County in that year entering upon his politi-
cal career, which has continued to the present date. We refer to Wesley L.
Jones. With him was chosen to Congress, Francis W. Cushman, each having
a decided though not large lead over the democratic or the populist candidates,
Lewis and Jones.
In this election of 1898 T. J. Anders and Mark A. Fullerton, republicans,
were chosen by strong majorities over the populist candidates. For state sen-
ator, George H. Baker, republican, was chosen, and for representative, Ira P.
Englehart, republican, was the choice.
The county officers were as follows : H. L. Tucker for sheriff, George Allen
for clerk. E. E. Kelso for auditor, W. B. Dudley for treasurer, John J. Rudkin
for prosecuting attorney: Robert Scott for assessor, F. 11. Plumb for superin-
tendent, Sydney Arnold for surveyor, David Rosser for coroner, Frank Horsley
and A. D. Eglin for commissioners. All of the above were republicans with
the single exception of Mr. Plumb for superintendent.
The election of 1900 indicates a still larger reaction from populism back
to the normal republicanism of the state of Washington. For presidential elec-
tors. Samuel G. Cosgrove, republican, the highest on the list, received 1,507 to
1,066 for N. G. Blalock, highest on the democratic list.
For congressman Francis W. Cushman and Wesley L. Jones again received
large majorities. The same was true of the candidates for the Supreme Court
and the other state officers. Henry McBride for governor received 1,436 votes
to 1,100 for William E. McCroskey, the democratic candidate. The total vote
for governor, it is interesting to notice, was 2,659. The other state officers
showed a universal republican triumph. For state representative from the
nineteenth district, Nelson Rich was the choice. For Superior judge, Frank
H. Rudkin was reelected. County officers were chosen as follows: Auditor,
E. E. Kelso; .sherifif, H. L. Tucker; clerk, G. L. Allen; treasurer, W. B. Dudley;
attorney, W. P. Guthrie; assessor, Robert Scott; superintendent, S. A. Dickey;
surveyor, W. F. Melloy ; coroner, E. P. Milliken ; commissioners. F. J. Kandle
W. L. Dimmick.
302 HISTORY OF YAKIAIA \-ALLEY
With the year 1902 we come to a new order of things by having three mem-
bers of Congress and we find the republicans still in the ascendant. Yakima
County cast an overwhelming vote for Wesley L. Jones, Francis W. Cushman
and William E. Humphrey. The judge of the Supreme Court receiving the
majority in this election was Hiram E. Hadley, with a vote of 1,705 to 1,010 for
his democratic opponent. For state senator from Yakima the democrats scored
one of their very few victories by the election of one of the most interesting
and conspicuous citizens of the county, A. J. Splawn. For representatives,
Robert Drum, republican, and F. A. Hedger, democrat, were chosen. Of the
local officers we find the following results : For sheriff, R. A. Grant ; clerk, J.
W. Day; auditor, W. B. Newcomb; treasurer, E. G. Beck; attorney, W. P.
Guthrie ; assessor, Harry Coonse ; superintendent of schools, S. A. Dickey ;
surveyor, W. F. Melloy ; coroner, E. P. Milliken ; commissioners, F. J. Kandle
and W. B. Mathews.
We come now to the election of 1904. With this year we come again to a
presidential election with all of its nation-wide excitement. We find the number
of votes cast in Yakima County to have greatly increased, the number in this
year being 5,054. The republican candidates for presidential electors had an
enormous majority, being 3,484 for the highest republican nominee, to 930 for
the highest democratic, 36 for the highest socialist labor candidate, 360. for the
highest socialist, 133 for the highest prohibitionist and 13 for the highest pop-
ulist. The three existing Congressmen, Wesley L. Jones, William E. Humphrey
and Francis L. Cushman, were reelected by immense majoiities over their dem-
ocratic opponents, Mr. Jones having 3,297 to 1,128 for his democratic competi-
tor. Frank H. Rudkin and Mark A. Fullerton had similar majorities for Su-
preme judge. Albert E. Mead for governor received a majority of 637 over
George Turner, democratic candidate. The other state offices show similar re-
sults. The legislative ticket shows the election of Walter J. Reed, republican,
as senator, over A. J. Splawn, democrat, by a majority of 417. For representa-
tives William H. Hare and Lee A. Johnson were chosen by large majorities.
Of the county offices we find the following results: For sheriff, Ronald A.
Grant, democrat, a remarkable distinction for that election. Of the other offices
we find for clerk, Jasper W. Day, for auditor William B. Newcomb, for treas-
urer Lee Tittle, for prosecuting attorney Ira M. Krutz, for assessor Harry
Coonse, for school superintendent Jacob A. Jacobson, for surveyor W. F. ]\Ielloy,
for coroner David Rosser, for commissioners Daniel Sinclair, Daniel McDonald,
and Carl A. Jensen, all republicans.
The election of 1906 is signalized in national afi^airs by the reelection of the
same three congressmen, William E. Humphrey, Wesle\- L. Jones and Francis
L. Cushman. The reaction in National afifairs that set in with 1898 still con-
tinued with unabated energy, and even the shrewdest politicians did not seem
to realize that another great reaction was in process of incubation, which was
destined to show its effect nationally in a half dozen years. Yakima County
gave the customary republican majorities for all state officers in the election of
1906. For the state representatives, Samuel J. Cameron and Lee A. Johnson,
both republicans, appear on the list of successful candidates. The local candi-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA AWLLEY 303
dates chosen were these : For sheriff, John M. Edwards, a democrat ; for clerk,
R. K. Nichols; for auditor, Wilbur Crocker; for treasurer, Lee Tittle; for
prosecuting attorney, Henry H. Wende, democrat; for assessor, J. W. Sindall;
superintendent of schools, J. A. Jacobson; surveyor, W. J. Mclntyre ; for coro-
ner, P. Frank; for commissioners, D. A. McDonald, William LeMay.
The year 1908 brings us to another presidential election. Of the five re-
publican candidates for presidential electors the highest is 2,998, while the
highest of the democrats is 1,645. The lesser parties have an inconspicuous
number of votes. For congressmen we come to a new and, at the present time,
one of the most conspicuous politicians of the United States, as republican can-
didate. This is Miles Poindexter of Spokane. He received a vote of 4,017 in
Yakima County to 1,546 for William Goodyear, the democratic candidate.
Before this time the Supreme Court judgeship had been made non-partisan and
the three nominated candidates. Judges Crow, Root and Chadwick, received the
entire vote of the county. For governor one of the best citizens of the state,
whose career was so unfortunately terminated by an untimely death, Samuel G.
Cosgrove, received a vote of 4,032 to 1,615 for John Pattison, the democratic
candidate. The other state offices showed a similar republican majority. The
legislative candidates show the election of Samuel J. Cameron as senator from
the fifteenth district and William H. Cline and Leo O. Meigs as representatives
from the twentieth district. E. B. Preble was chosen Superior judge. For the
local officers we find for sheriff, Joe H. Lancaster; for clerk, A. W. Barr; for
auditor, Wilbur Crocker ; for treasurer, Frank Bond ; for prosecuting attorney,
J. Lenox Ward; for assessor, John W. Sindall; for superintendent, F. S. Busch;
for engineer, William J. Alclntyre; for coroner, David Rosser; for commis-
sioners, W. F. Melloy and William LeMay, all republicans.
The election of 1910. In this election we find Yakima County still true to
her republican predilections. William L. LaFollette was chosen congressman
by 3,535 to 946 for Harry D. Merrit, the democrat. For the legislative ticket
we find Frank J. Allen for state senator and Walker Moren and C. W. Cham-
berlain for representatives. For the local officers we find for sheriff, J. W.
Day; for county clerk, A. W. Barr; auditor, W. B. Newcomb ; for treasurer,
Frank Bond; attorney, J. Lenox Ward; assessor, B. F. r.lcCurdy ; superintend-
ent, F. S. Busch; for engineer, H. F. Marble; for coroner, Fred Shaw; for
commissioners, Jim Lancaster and Martin Olsen. By act of legislature in 1911,
two Superior judges were assigned to Yakima County. E. B. Preble was chosen
to one judgeship and Thomas M. Grady was appointed to the other by Governor
M. E. Hay.
With the year 1912 we find ourselves again in a presidential election and
one of the most momentous of the entire series. In this election Washington
was entitled to five electors. Contrary to the result in the nation, Yakima
County cast her vote for the republican nominees, but by a very scanty majority
compared with the previous majorities, being 3,304 to 3,209. One of the most
important votes of this election was that on the adoption of the Initiative and
Recall amendments to the constitution. These had a majority of nearly 3,000
out of a vote of something over 6,000. The representatives to Congress at large
304 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
chosen in the county (though not in the state) were J. E. Frost and Henry B.
Dewey, both repubhcans, while W. L. LaFoHette was reelected from the third
district by a majority of nearly 2,000. M. E. Hay received a vote of 4,569 for
governor, but was defeated in the state at large by the present governor, Ernest
Lister. The successful candidate for state senator from the fifteenth district
was Henry H. Wende, the democratic candidate. The successful candidates
for state representative were C. E. Lum and Walker Moren, both republicans.
Of the local candidates we find J. Metzger, a democrat, chosen sheriff; for
clerk, C. Roy King; for auditor, W. B. Newcomb; for treasurer, James F.
Wood ; for attorney, Harold B. Gilbert ; for assessor, B. F. ^NlcCurdy ; for
superintendent of schools, Rodney Ackley ; for engineer, H. F. Marble ; for
coroner, Fred E. Shaw ; for commissioners, James Stewart and William Stahl-
hut. E. B. Preble and T. M. Grady were elected to fill the Superior judgeships
for the full four-year term.
The election of 1914 presents some especially interesting features. Per-
haps the most so of all was the vote of the state upon the prohibition amend-
ment. Yakima County gave an overwhelming vote in favor of this amendment,
being 10,192 to 5,086. There were a number of other interesting amendments
proposed but the vote in case of all of them was adverse, showing a generally
conservative disposition on the part of the voters of the county. In this elec-
tion, William L. LaFollette was reelected representative to Congress by an in-
creased majority over Roscoe M. Drumheller, the demccratic candidate. For
representatives to the State Legislature from the twentieth district., W. P.
Sawyer and C. E. Lum were chosen. The successful local candidates were as
follows: For sherifif, W. P. IMurphy ; for clerk, C. Roy King; for auditor,
Charles E. Barrett; for treasurer, James F. Wood; for prosecuting attorney,
Harold B. Gilbert; for assessor, W. D. McNair; for superintendent, Rodney
Ackley; for engineer, O. E. Brashears ; for commissioners, Jim Lancaster and
W^illiam Stahlhut, all republicans.
ELECTION OF 1916.
The election of 1916 was signalized by a number of eiiforts on the part of
the liquor interests to evade the results of the prohibition amendment. This
was done by several initiative and referendum measures. Yakima County
became the banner county of the state in turning down these attempts to
defeat the pre-recorded wish of the people. One of these measures showed a
vote against of 7,973 to 1.350 for. From the presidential standpoint, this was
one of the most exciting elections ever held and the state of Washington, with
other western states, seems to have determined the balance of the results.
Yakima County, however, was still true to her first love and cast a republican
majority, although a scanty one, being 7,188 republican to 6,136 democratic. In
this election the senator, chosen by popular vote, was Miles Poindexter by a
vote of 8,560 to 4,485 for George Turner, the democratic candidate. William
LaFollette received the majority vote for congressman. Ernest Lister received
a vote in the county for governor of 7,625 to 6,661 for Henry McBride, the re-
publican candidate, but aside from the governor, almost all the republican state
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 305
candidates were elected. For state senator D. V. Morthland was chosen by a
large majority. For the state representatives, William P. Sawyer was reelected
and Ina Phillips Williams was chosen. Of the local candidates we find the
following: W. P. Murphy for sheriff, Frank D. Clemmer for clerk, Charles E.
Barrett for auditor, J. F. Peters for treasurer, O. R. Shuman for prosecuting
attorney, W. D. McNair for assessor, Anna R. Nichols for superintendent, O.
E. Brashears for engineer. Dr. H. R. Wells for coroner, A. Lundstrum, W. L.
Dimmick and A. E. Turner for commissioners. In this election George B.
Holden and H. M. Taylor were chosen Superior judges.
The election of 1918 was marked by the rather singular feature of calling
out but forty-two per cent, of the estimated registration of 14,400, as stated by
Auditor C. E. Barrett. The result in Yakima, as in most parts of the country,
was a republican triumph.
The following are the returns:
For convention 2,169, against convention 1,297; for referendum 3,256,
against referendum 1008; Congress — ^John W. Summers 3,561, W. E.
McCroskey 2,277, Walter Price 119; legislature— W. P. Sawyer 4,285, H. C.
Lucas 4,201, Lucy M. Cooper 264; sheriff — Samuel Hutchinson 4,116, Ward
W. King 1,931; clerk — Frank Clemmer 4,574 ; auditor — Ruth Hutchinson 4,893;
treasurer — J. F. Peters 4,732 ; prosecutor — O. R. Schumann 3,036, Guy O.
Shumate 2,966 ; assessor — L. D. Luce 4,421 ; school superintendent — Anna R.
Nichols 4,890; engineer— W. C. Marion 4,548; coroner— H. R. Wells 4,593;
commissioner, 2d — W. L. Dimmick 4,541 ; commissioner, 3d — A. C. Turner
4,522; judge, six years— John R. Mitchell 3,130, Wallace Mount 2,527, John
F. Main 2,470, W. H. Pemberton 1,359, W. O. Chapman 1,327, Edgar G. Mills
1,190; judge, four years — Kenneth Mackintosh 2,636; judge, two years — War-
ren W. Tollman 2,307.
It may be noted that the referendum measure was the question of the
"bone-dry" prohibition law, passed by the legislature of 1917. In the state, as
in Yakima County, the law was overwhelmingly sustained.
Yakima has had its full share in the politics of the state and nation. The
most conspicuous contribution to national politics has been Senator Wesley L.
Jones. Coming to Yakima from Illinois in 1889, Mr. Jones devoted his first
years to the upbuilding of a large law practice, and in 1898 was chosen repre-
sentative to Congress. Four successive elections as representative followed. In
1908 he was designated by popular vote and therefore chosen to the Senate. In
the election of 1914, he was reelected to the Senate by popular vote.
One of the very interesting historical points in the political historj' of
Senator Jones was his famous encounter on the platform at Walla Walla with
"Dude" Lewis. This occurred on October 22, 1898, and was practically Mr.
Jones' introduction to the political world. He was relatively unknown at that
time, while Congressman Lewis was the most noted as well as most picturesque
figure in Washington politics. Moreover, Mr. Lewis, in spite of his "pink
whiskers" and incredible number of flaming neckties and vari-colored pairs of
trousers, was a man of great ability and had a reputation as a brilliant orator
and effective debater which made him hard to beat in any political arena. While
(20)
306 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
opinions differed as to the honors in this famous contest, the wit, good nature
and argumentative skill of Mr. Jones against his wary and skillful opponent
were such as to carry him at a jump to the front rank of political orators and
to give him a standing which played no small part in his election two weeks
later.
Yakima County, like most irrigated regions, with its predominance of small
land holdings and intensive farming, and generally high-class rural life, and the
accompaniment of good schools, churches and general diffusion of intelligence,
has always been progressive on moral and reformatory measures. We are not
surprised, therefore, that in spite of some strong centering of predatory inter-
ests in the city, the power of the outlying precincts was so great as to secure
an overwhelming support for the three great sets of amendments to the con-
stitution; woman suffrage in 1908, initiative, recall, direct primary and refer-
endum in 1912, and prohibition in 1914. While professional politicians have
sneered and railed at these measures, there can be no nutstion that from the
viewpoint of the genuine permanent interests of the people, these and their
correlative measures outweigh infinitely the little squirming jobs hatched out by
peanut politicians in legislative lobbies and in the back rooms of gambling dens,
and which necessarily make up the staple of politics unles.^ the real producers
of a country assume their rightful responsibilities and take possession of their
rightful heritage, and, in short, run their own government. Communities such
as are generated by the conditions of life in Yakima, and indeed mainly in the
state of Washington and the Northwest, are sure to do this in the long run.
They are, therefore, the ver>' bedrock of those principles which will "make the
world safe for democracy."
From the standpoint of the historian, the record of ilie territorial officers
from 1853 to 1889 possesses permanent value, and we accordingly incorporate
it at this point.
GOVERNORS OF THE TERRITORY
Isaac I. Stevens— 1853 to 1857. Edward S. Salomon— 1870 to 1872.
J. Patton Anderson— 1857. Did not James F. Legate— 1872. Did not
qualify. qualify.
Fayette McMullen— 1857 to 1859. Elisha P. Ferry-— 1872 to 1880.
R. D. Gholson— 1859 to 1861. W. A. Newell— 1880 to 1884.
W. H. Wallace— 1861. Watson C. Squire— 1884 to 1887.
William Pickering— 1862 to 1866. Eugene Semple— 1887 to 1889.
George E. Cole— 1866 to 1867. Miles C. Moore (seven months)— 1889
Marshal F. Moore — 1867 to 1869. to statehood.
Alvin Flanders— 1869 to 1870.
TERRITORIAL DELEGATES IN CONGRESS
1853 — Columbia Lancaster, dem. 1861 — William H. Wallace, whig
1854— William H. Wallace, whig 1863— George E. Cole, dem.
1855 — J. Patton Anderson, dem. 1865 — A. A. Denny, rep.
1857 — Isaac I. Stevens, dem. 1867 — Alvin Flanders, rep.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 307
TERRITORIAL DELEGATES IN CONGRESS — Continued
1869— S. Garfielde, rep. 1880— Thomas PI. Brents, rep.
1870— S. Garfielde, rep. 1882— Thomas H. Brents, rep.
1872— O. B. McFadden, dem. 1884— C. S. Voorhees, dem.
1874 — Orange Jacobs, rep. 1886 — C. S. Voorhees, dem.
1878— Thomas B. Brents, rep. 1888— John B. Allen, rep.
UNITED STATES SURVEYORS GENERAL IN THE TERRITORY
James Tilton— 1853 to 1860. L. B. Beach— 187:..
A. G. Henry— 1864 to 1866. Wilham McMicken— 1873 to 1886.
Sehicius Garfielde— 1866 to 1869. J. C. Breckinridge— 1886 to 1889.
E. P. Ferry— 1870 to 1872. T. H. Cavanaugh— 1889 to statehood.
UNITED STATES ATTORNEYS IN THE TERRITORY
J. S. Clendenin— 1853 to 1856. J. J. McGilvra— 1861 to 1867.
H. R. Crosbie— 1856 to . Leander Holmes— 1867 to 1873.
J. S. Smith— 1857 to 1859. Samuel C. Wingard— 1873 to 1874.
B. P. Anderson— 1859 to 1861. John B. Allen— 1875 to 1886.
William H. White— 1886 to statehood.
UNITED STATES MARSHALS IN THE TERRITORY
J. P. Anderson— 1853 to 1855. Philip Ritz— 1869 to .
G. W. Corliss— 1856 to 1858. E. S. Kearney— 1870 to 1874.
Charles E. Weed— 1859 to 1862. Charles Hopkins— 1875 to 1886.
William Huntington— 1863 to 1868. T. J. Hamilton— 1886 to statehood.
SECRETARIES OF THE TERRITORY
Charles H. Mason— 1853 to 1857. James Scott— 1870 to 1872.
H. M. McGill— 1857 to 1860. J. C. Clements— 1872 to .
L. J. S. Turney— 1861 to 1862. Henry G. Struve— 1873 to 1879.
Elwood Evans— 1862 to 1867. N. H. Owings— 1879 to 1889.
E. L. Smith— 1867 to 1870. O. C. White— 1889 to statehood.
TERRITORIAL TREASURERS
William Cock— 1854 to 1861. J. H. Munson— 1872.
D. Phillips— 1862 to 1863. E. T. Gunn— 1873 to 1874.
William Cock— 1864. Francis Tarbell— 1875 to 1880.
Benjamin Harned— 1865. Thomas N. Ford— 1881 to 1886.
James Tilton— 1866. William McMicken— 1886 to 1888.
Benjamin Harned— 1867 to 1870. Frank I. Blodgett— 1888 to statehood.
Hill Haimon— 1871.
308
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
TERRITORIAL AUDITORS
Urban E. Hicks— 1858 to 1859.
A. J. Moses— 1859 to 1860.
J. C. Head— 1860 to 1862.
R. M. Walker— 1862 to 1864.
Urban E. Hicks— 1865 to 1867.
John M. Murphy— 1867 to 1870.
J. G. Sparks— 1871.
N. S. Porter— 1872.
John M. Murphy— 1873 to 1874.
John R. Wheat— 1875 to 1876.
Thomas M. Reed— 1877 to 1888.
J. M. Murphy— 1888 to statehood.
TERRITORIAL CHIEF JUSTICES
Edward Lander— 1853 to 1858.
O. B. McFadden— 1858 to 1861.
C. C. Hewitt— 1861 to 1869.
B. F. Dennison— 1869.
William L. Hill— 1870.
Orange Jacobs— 1871 to 1875.
J. R. Lewis— 1875 to 1879.
Roger S. Greene— 1879 to 1887.
Richard A. Jones— 1887 to 1888.
C. E. Boyle— 1888, died December.
Thomas Burke— 1888 to 1889.
C. H. Hanford— 1889 to statehood.
TERRITORIAL ASSOCIATE JUSTICES
Victor "Monroe — 1853.
F. A. Chenoweth— 1853 to 1858.
O. B. McFadden— 1853 to 1858.
William Strong— 1858 to 1861.
E. C. Fitzhugh— 1858 to 1861.
J. E. Wyche— 1861 to 1870.
E. P. Oliphant— 1861 to 1870.
C. B. Darwin— 1867.
B. F. Dennison— 1868.
Orange Jacobs— 1869 to 1870.
James K. Kennedy — 1870 to 1873.
J. R. Lewis— 1873 to 1875.
Roger S. Greene— 1871 to 1879.
S. C. Wingard— 1875 to 1879.
John P. Hoyt— 1879 to 1887.
George Turner— 1884 to 1888.
L. B. Nash— 1888 to 1889.
W. G. Langford— 1886 to statehood.
Frank Allyn — 1887 to statehood.
W. H. Calkins— 1S89 to statehood.
TERRITORIAL ATTORNEY GENERAL
J. B. Metcalfe— 1888 to statehood.
As giving a view of the conditions of this good land in which we live at
the great turning point of induction into statehood, the addresses of the last
territorial governor, Miles C. Moore, and the first state governor, Elisha P.
Ferry, cannot fail to interest our readers of Yakima, Kittitas and Benton
counties, along with those of all other sections, and we accordingly include them
in this chapter.
"Lest We Forget"
Notable Addresses on Washington State Admission Day, November 11, 1889
EX-GOVERNOR MOORE S ADDRESS
Ladies and Gentlemen : A custom has grown up here at the capital city
and crystalHzed into unwritten law, which requires the retiring governor to de-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 309
liver his own valedictory, and also to salute the incomiiio' administration. In
accordance with that custom I am here as the last of the race of territorial gov-
ernors to say "Hail and farewell." Hail to the lusty young state of Washington,
rising like a giant in its strength ; farewell to old territorial days. It is an occa-
sion for reminiscence, for retrospection. To those of us who have watched at
the cradle of Washington's political childhood, this transition to statehood has
its pathetic side. It stirs within us memories of the "brave days of old." The
past rises before us. .
We see again the long line of white canvas-covered wagons leaving the
fringe of settlements of the then western frontier, through tear-dimmed eyes
we see them disappear down behind the western horizon, entered upon that vast
terra incognita, the great American desert of our school days. At last we see
them emerge, after months of weary travel upon the plains of eastern Washing-
ton, or, later, hewing out paths in the wilderness, striving to reach that "Eden
they call Puget Sound." Hither year after year came the pioneers and builded
their homes and planted the symbols of their faith upon the -ban-k-s of your rivers,
in the sun-kissed valleys of your Inland Empire, under the shadows of your
grand mountains, and upon the shores of this vast inland sea.
Very gradually we grew. The donation act passed by Congress, in 1^50,
giving to each man and his wife who would settle thereon a square mile of land
in this fertile region, attracted the first considerable immigration. It also prob-
ably saved to the United States this Northwest territory. The entire popula-
tion, which at the date of organization as a separate territory, in 1853, was.
5,500, had grown to only 24,000 in 1870, and to 67,000 in 1880.
Still with an abiding faith in the ultimate greatness of Washington, and
the attractions of her climate, when her wealth of resources should become
known, the old settler watched through the long years the gradual unfolding
of these resources, the slow increase in population. At last the railroad came,
linking us with the populous centers of civilization. They poured upon us a
restless stream of immigration. A change came over the sleepy old territory.
These active, pushing emigrants, the best blood of the older states, are leveling
the forests, they are delving in the mines, they are tunneling the mountains,
they are toiling in the grain fields, they are building cities, towns and villages,
filling the heavens with the shining towers of religion and civilization.
The old settler finds himself in the midst of a strange new age and almost
uncomprehended scenes. The old order of things has passed away but your
sturdy, self-reliant pioneer looks not mournfully into the past. He is with you
in the living present, with you here today, rejoicing in the marvelous prosperity
visible everywhere around him, rejoicing to see the empire which he wrested
from savage foes become the home of a happy people, rejoicing to see that
empire, emerged from the condition of territorial vassalage, put on the robes of
sovereignty.
We are assembled here to celebrate this event, the most important in the
history of Washington, and to put in motion the wheels of the state government.
Through many slow revolving years the people of Washington have waited for
their exalted privileges. So quietly have they come at last, so quietly have we
310 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
passed from political infancy to the manly strength and independence of state-
hood, that we scarce can realize that we have attained the fruition of our hopes.
Let us not forget in this hour of rejoicing the responsibility that comes
with autonomy. Let us not forget that under statehood life will still have woes,
that there will still be want and misery in this fair land of ours. To reduce
these to the minimum is the problem of statesmanship. The responsibility rests
largely with our lawmakers now assembled here. A good foundation has been
laid in the adoption of an admirable constitution pronounced by an eminent
authority "as good as any state now has and probably as good as any will ever
get." Upon this you are to build the superstructure of the commonwealth by
enacting laws for the millions who are to dwell therein.
You have the storehouse of the centuries from which to draw, the crystal-
lized experience of lawmakers from the days of Justinian down to present times.
To fail to give us good laws will be to "sin against light." "Unto whomsoever
much is given of him shall be much required." The eyes of all the people are
upon you. It is hoped and confidently expected you will bring to the discharge
of your duties wisdom, industry and lofty patriotism ; that when your work is
done it will be found to have been well done ; that capital and labor will here
have equal recognition and absolute protection : that here will arise an ideal
commonwealth, the home of a race to match our mountains, worthy to wear
the name of Washington.
Now that I am about to surrender my trust and return to private life, I
desire to testify to my grateful appreciation of the uniform kindness, forbear-
ance and courtesy accorded me by the people of Olympia, j.nd by all the citizens
of Washington, it has been my good fortune to meet during my brief term of
office. I shall always cherish among the pleasant experiences of my life the
seven months passed here as Washington's last territorial governor.
To your governor-elect you need no introduction; if not a pioneer, he is
at least an old settler. It is a graceful tribute to this class that one of their
number was selected to be the first governor of the state. It affords me pleasure
to testify to his thorough and absolute devotion to its interests. His every
thought is instinct with love for the fair young state. I bespeak for him vour
generous cooperation and assistance.
GOVERNOR ferry's ADDRESS
Fellow citizens of the state of Washington: The 11th day of November,
1889, will be a memorial epoch in our history. It will be known and designated
as "Admission Day." Its anniversary will be celebrated and it may very prop-
erly be placed among our legal holidays. On that day the territory- of Wash-
ington, after an existence of more than thirty-six years, ceased to be, and in
its place the state of Washington, the forty-second star in the national constella-
tion, was called into being. Our minority and our deprivation of our most
cherished and important rights and privileges of American citizens continued
longer than we desired or was necessary. Many of those around me have
looked forward to statehood through years added to years until they almost
despaired of the realization of their hopes.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 311
To those whose residence in our commonvveahh has exi ended only through
a short period, the inauguration of the first state government may not appear
to be of great importance, but to those whose hair has grown white beneath
this sky, to those who in early days crossed a continent by long and weary-
marches ; to those who planted the standard of civilization and Christianity
within its borders ; to those, the ever-to-be-remembered pioneers, it is an event
of transcendent interest; to those it is the consummation of hopes long deferred
yet ever renewed. It is the accomplishment of a result for which they have
waited with anxious solicitude and which they now welcome with joy and satis-
faction.
The inauguration of the state government which occurs today is also a
most important event in the history of the commonwealth. It marks the end of
one form of government and the beginning of another. So plain is the signifi-
cance of the present hour and so evident is its import that those present, young
and old alike, feel the weight of the great event and will in future years
proudly refer to the fact that they saw the wheels of government of the state
of Washington put in action for the first time and that they marked the moment
the last act was performed by which the territory of Washington passed into
history and the state of Washington entered upon its active governmental
career.
The territory of Washington was established March 2, 1853. Its bound-
aries then were : The British possessions on the north ; the Rocky Mountains
on the east ; the Columbia River and the forty-sixth parallel of north latitude
on the south and the Pacific Ocean on the west. It was then almost an empire
in extent. Those boundaries remained until the formation of the territory of
Idaho, March 3, 1863, when our eastern boundary was changed to the 118th
meridian, where it now remains.
It is impossible at this time to give even a synopsis of the events which
have occurred during our territorial life. The history of the territory remains
to be written. To that we must look for an account of the dangers and hard-
ships encountered by the early settlers; of the political events that transpired
during the territorial period and of the gradual change of a wilderness inhab-
ited by savages into a commonwealth possessing all the advantages of the high-
est civilization.
The years which have passed under the territorial government have been
profitably employed. Washington has, during all this time, been growing
stronger financially, commercially and politically. It has gained an enviable
reputation. Its resources have been exhibited and its capabilities have been
made known. Its ability to assume the responsibilities and bear the burdens
of statehood are far greater than at any time in the past. Already it outranks
several other states of the Union in population and wealth and is pressing for-
ward with giant strides to that high position which it is destined to occupy. Our
commonwealth enters upon statehood under circumstances that are most favor-
able; under auspices which assure a prosperous future. Even,' branch of busi-
ness is flourishing. For several years the tide of fortune has been with our
citizens, and they have taken the treasure which has floated upon its bosom.
312 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
The attention of the world has been attracted by our commercial facilities,
by our agricultural and manufacturing advantages; by our resources of timber,
coal, iron and the precious metals, and by our phenomenally pleasant climate.
Capital and population are flowing in upon us in an apparently endless stream.
Commerce, manufacturing and agriculture, the three great elements of a na-
tion's prosperity, are on a firm basis, and the possibilities of their future devel-
opment are boundless.
Young and comparatively undeveloped as it is, Washington enters the
Union the peer of any state and the superior of many. Only a few years of this
century remain, but before they are gone Washington will be universally recog-
nized as one of the greatest of the American states.
It attains its majority and enters the Union well endowed. Owing to the
generosity of its sister states, through their representatives in Congress, it has
received more than half a million acres of land of the present value of more
than five millions of dollars, in addition to the magnificent grant for the support
of common schools. Washington is, therefore, not only wealthy in its resources
and capabilities but in fact. The present, indeed, gives promise of a glorious
future, and the past, too, adds its evidence to strengthen our hopes. The recent
progress of Washington has been truly marvelous. Less than a decade since,
its population was 75,000; now it is more than 300,000.
The assessed value of its property was then $22,000,000; now it is $125,-
000,000. Then only a few miles of railroad had been constructed within its.
borders; now they penetrate to nearly every part of the state, and one trans-
continental road extends from its eastern almost to its western boundary. Then.
its largest city had less than 5,000 inhabitants ; now it has three cities each of
which has more than 25,000. Truly the recent past gives promise of a future-
which will realize our most sanguine anticipations.
The state is now, practically, connected with the south and east by three
transcontinental railroads, and there is every reason for hope that this nuinber
will be increased, perhaps doubled, within a few years. With this increase will
come manifest advantages. Freight and passenger rates between Wasliington:
and the east will be materially decreased. New markets for our products will
thus be opened, and the price of necessities of eastern manufacture will be re-
duced.
With this increase of commercial advantages will come an increase in man^
ufactures and an increased remuneration for industry in the line of agriculture,,
which always follows the growth of manufactures. Truly the prospect is en-
couraging. It is such that the citizen of Washington can look upon his state.
with pride and anticipation which can not be too great.
But a forecast of the future of Washington which did not take into con-
sideration the possibilities of its foreign commerce would be superficial and
very incomplete. Already this is a source of revenue to its citizerrs, the im-
portance of which can not be overestimated. Exports from Puget Sound are
now carried to ports of all continents — North America, South America, Africa,.
Asia, Europe and Australia — and to many of the islands of the Pacific
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 313
The trade of Europe with the Orient, a trade which enriched every country
that has engaged in it, is now insignificant in comparison with what it will be-
come in the near future. The uncounted mihions of China and North Asia are
beginning to awaken to the advantages of our civihzation. Year by year they
accept more and more of the manufactured goods of Europe and America.
Wheat is supplanting rice as a staple article of food. The Orient is looking to
the Occident for its supplies.
Here will spring up a trade which will vastly outmeasure the old Oriental
trade (and it is fair to suppose that a reasonable proportion of this mighty
stream of commerce will flow through Paget Sound, which is nearer by many
thousand miles to the commercial cities of Asia than are the competing ports of
Europe). The manufactured products of eastern America and the products of
our own state will be exchanged here for the products of Asia. As a conse-
quence of this trade, there will arise upon the waters of Paget Sound several
commercial cities, one at least of which will rank with the great commercial
cities of the world.
The eastern portion of the state is unrivalled in the production of all the
cereals and fruits indigenous to the temperate zones, and its productive capacity
is almost incalculable.
Are not these considerations sufficient to justify the citizens of Washing-
ton in their firmly rooted belief that their state will ultimately be one of the
foremost in the Union?
The substitution of a state government for that of the territory imposes
upon the citizens of Washington more solemn duties and graver responsibilities
than those to which they have been accustomed. Hitherto the power of our
legislature to enact laws has been limited and restricted by the organic act and
the amendments thereto, and by the various laws that have been passed by Con-
gress relating to the territories.
Further than this. Congress reserved the right to annul any law passed by
the territorial legislature which seemed to be unwise and injudicious. We had
no voice in the selecting of our executive and judicial officers, and none in
directing the course of the national government. Hereafter all will be changed.
The powers of our legislature will be limited only by the constitution of the
United States and that of the state of Washington. Our citizens will be on an
equality with those of any other state of the Union, and rheir wishes will have
due weight in determining the policy of the national government.
We should therefore exercise a conscientious endeavor to bear well these
new responsibilities and discharge faithfully the new duties which are ours, and
prove ourselves worthy of the rights which we have secured. Let greater wis-
dom accompany the greater power that we now possess. Let us discharge the
additional duties devolving upon us in a manner that will redound to our credit,
advance the welfare and prosperity of our state, and add importance and
strength to the national Union.
The constitution which has been adopted by our people and on which our
state government must rest, although not universally approved, appears to be
satisfactory to a great majority of our fellow citizens. No one should have
314 HISTORY OF YAKOIA \'ALLEY
anticipated a perfect constitution. An instrument of that character has never
been, and never will be, devised. If the constitution is as perfect as could rea-
sonably be expected, taking into consideration existing conflicting interests, and
radical differences of opinion that are entertained upon many important govern-
mental and other questions, then all should be content ; submit to the will of the
majority and at least be willing to give the constitution a fair trial.
Should, however, experience teach any of its provisions are unwise or
others required, or that additional limitations upon legislative power are neces-
sary, then let amendments be prepared in the manner provided. There are
indications that this course is not satisfactory to all of our fellow citizens.
Already amendments are suggested and agitated. This is not a good policy.
No attempt to change the constitution should be made until time and ex-
perience shall demonstrate that changes are advisable, and that suggested amend-
ments would improve it and render it more satisfactory than it now is. Changes
should not be countenanced or approved by any one who believes that the
fundamental law should be reasonably permanent and who is willing that it be
submitted to the test of experience.
In addition to this, the state constitution is only a limitation upon legislative
power, differing in his respect from the constitution of the United States,
which is a grant of power. It is therefore to be presumed that in addition to
the specified subjects in the constitution upon which the legislature is required
to take action it will at its first session enact such laws as will remedy what, to
many, may appear to be defects in that instrument.
Within the past few months several of the largest cities in our common-
wealth have suffered from disastrous conflagrations. In a few hours property
of thei value of many millions of dollars, the accumulation of years, the pro-
ceeds of lives of toil, was swept out of existence. To individuals in many in-
stances these fires occasioned serious losses, and may be regarded as calami-
ties, but the cities will sustain no permanent injury. They are being rapidly
rebuilt, better and more substantial than before. The check to business was
only temporary, and the population of each has increased without interruption.
The undaunted courage, the indefatigable enterprise and the persevering
energy displayed by the people of those cities under what were considered over-
whelming misfortunes have excited admiration and astonishment throughout
the continent and wherever the facts have become knov/n. These characteris-
tics have been fully recognized and appreciated by foreign capitalists, who
oft'ered loans to these cities to enable them to rebuild at less rates of interest
than those formerly demanded.
In this respect, as well as in others, these conflagrations have already
shown themselves to be beneficial rather than calamitous. Great disasters bring
out the true character of a people.
With resources superior to those of any other equal ^rea, with a population
as enterprising as it is courageous, with a climate which commends itself to all
who experience it, occupying a position at the gateway of the Oriental and Oc-
cidental commerce of the future, there is no reason why the state of Washing-
ton should not in the near future take rank among the most prominent states
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
315
of the Union, nor why our people should not enjoy the priceless blessings of
prosperity, health and happiness.
Having been elected by my fellow citizens to the office of governor of the
state of Washington, I am about to take the prescribed oath and enter upon the
discharge of my duties. I fully appreciate the dignity and honor of the posi-
tion and am profoundly grateful to my fellow citizens for the confidence which
they have reposed in me. At the same time I deeply realize the responsibilities
that I assume and the difficulties and embarrassments with which I may be sur-
rounded. Matters will necessarily come before me for action about which
honest differences of opinion will be entertained by my tellow citizens. I can
not hope that my course will be satisfactory to all, but I can sincerely assure
you that at all times and under all circumstances my highest and best efforts
will be directed to the promotion of the various interests of the people of the
state of Washington.
A GENERAL EXHIBIT OF FINANCIAL CONDITIONS OF YAKIKA COUNTY. 1917
While, as indicated in the preface to this work, the author has not believed
that it should be largely statistical, it seems fitting to close this chapter with a
general view of the financial condition of the county.
Such a view' will have a permanent value. We derive the following figures
from the elaborate report of Auditor, Charles E. Barrett.
STATEMENT OF 1917 TAX ROLLS
Returned by Equalized by
County Assessor County Board
Value of Land Assessed $13,698,160 $13,680,380
Value of Improvements 2.821,200 2,819,000
Value of City and Town Lots 3,716,685 3,716,685
Value of Improvements 3,849,175 3,848,015
Value of Personal Property 5,120,540 5,108,700
Value of Railroad Property (assessed by
State Tax Commission) 823,502 Personal 823,502
Assessed by State Tax Commission 4,223,256 Real 4,223,256
Value of Telegraph Property (assessed by
State Tax Commission) 9,593 Personal 9,593
$34,262,111 $34,229,131
Tax Levied on 1917 Rolls — Valuation Levy Tax
State—General $34,229,131 1.235 $42,273.00
School . 1.906 65,240.70
Military 0.272 9,310.33
Highway, Public .906 31,011.60
Highway, Permanent 1.357 46,448.95
University .670 22,933.51
College .407 13,931.25
Bellingham Normal .138 4,723.62
316
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Cheney Normal
Ellensburg Normal
Capitol Building Construction
Total State Tax
County — Current Expense $34,229,131
Bond Sinking Fund
County School
General Road and Bridge
Soldiers Relief
Cities, Road, Dike and Drainage Districts —
N. Yakima Dist. "A" Valuation
*$66,565
N. Yakima Dist. "B" Valuation $ 347,205
N. Yakima Dist. "C" Valuation 6,575,829
N. Yakima Dist. "D" Valuation 1,223,328
Yakima City 103,135
Wapato 218,295
Toppenish A 791,151
Toppenish B 17,775
Toppenish C 38,080
Toppenish D 47,085
Mabton 257,285
Granger 187,595
Sunnyside 610,374
Grandview 292,650
Zillah 227,450
.118 4,039.03
.098 3,354.45
.453 15,505.80
Total Valuation of Cities $10,937,237
Road Dist. No. 1 $ 5,692,302
Road Dist. No. 2 2,207,623
Road Dist. No. 3 4,462,490
Road Dist. No. 4 1,778,710
Road Dist. No. 5 1,717,300
Road Dist. No. 6 2,400,523
Road Dist. No. 8 2,347,145
Road Dist. No. 9 2,685,801
Total Valuation of Road and Bridge-$23,291,894
Dike Di.st. No. 1
Dike Dist. No. 3
Drainage Dist. No. 5
Drainage Dist. No. 7
7.560
$258,772.23
3.278
$112,203.13
1.119
41,040.72
3.964
135,684.28
3.955
135,376.21
.024
821.50
12.420
$425,125.84
1.73
$115.16
21.53
7,475.34
23.26
152,953.90
20.30
24,833.57
10.00
1,031.35
15.60
3.405.44
20.34
16,092.09'
19.80
351.97
18.28
696.11
18.28
860.71
15.94
4.101.18
14.70
2,757.67
16.45
10,040.71
10.15
2,970.46
15.30
3.479.98
$231,165.64
5.80
$33,015.40
5.75
12,694.02
5.90
26,328.85
5.66
10.067.57
5.00
8,586.52
7.71
18,508.16
7.50
17.603.94
7.50
15,147.90
$141,952.36
$ 2,500.00
2,452.06
200.00
250.00
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 317
Drainage Dist. No. 10 1,000.00
Drainage Dist. No. 11 7,583.83
Total Dike and Drainage Dists._ $ 13,985.89
*Valuation not included in totals (for City Bond Tax only).
SCHOOL DISTRICTS
Bond, Int. High
General & Red. School Total
District No. Valuation Levy Fund District Levy Tax
2 $ 393,715 8.80 .25 9.05 $ 3,563.14
3 228,880 10.00 1.76 11.76 2,691.68
5 496,355 4.34 .91 5.25 2,605.91
6 204,565 10.00 5.00 .42 15.42 3,154.43
7 9,480,180 5.22 3.26 8.48 80,391.99
8 84,010 5.07 .30 .28 5.65 474.66
9 114,035 6.32 2.91 9.23 1,052.53
10 366,475 10.00 2.35 .11 12.46 4,566.32
11 96,460 8.23 1.27 9.50 916.43
14 258,535 10.00 4.17 .76 14.93 3,860.00
15 210,810 3.35 3.35 706.21
24 37,230 10.00 10.00 372.30
25 441,020 4.40 1.14 5.54 2,443.25
26 901,470 3.23 .42 .14 3.79 3,416.63
28 924,565 4.96 1.37 1.53 7.86 7,267.13
29 80,160 4.14 3.44 7.58 607.60
31 353,053 6.69 .79 .11 7.59 2,679.73
32 735,230 7.71 3.54 11.25 8,271.44
33 377,265 3.41 1.56 4.97 1,875.10
34 610,783 10.00 1.89 11.89 7,262.26
35 294,735 1.98 .99. 2.97 875.36
36 1,014,185 7.92 2.89 10.81 10,963.40
37 359,340 3.13 3.13 1,124.75
39 1,662,410 4.06 4.14 8.20 13,631.76
42 192,670 7.15 3.58 10.73 2,067.36
49 2,134,981 5.21 4.62 9.83 20,986.93
50 459,675 8.54 2.31 10.85 4,987.50
51 320,125 5.98 3.46 .09 9.53 3,050.83
52 88,610 4.58 .84 .86 6.28 556.47
54 1.454,370 7.21 3.04 10.25 14,907.53
57 235.685 7.24 .81 .48 8.53 2,010.44
61 46.950 1.88 1.88 88.28
63 1,686,579 9.42 4.45 13.87 23,392.88
67 75,190 2.33 2.33 175.20
73 53,540 3.90 3.90 208.81
74 60,945 7.71 .83 .60 9.14 557.06
318
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
81-
82.
84.
85.
86.
87.
88-
89.
90-
91.
92.
93.
94.
96.
64,510
1,058.890
67,580
56,300
101,440
153,865
237,250
243,485
684,985
1,412,725
582,890
648,615
110,315
731,088
176,055
178,422
4.11
10.00
8.63
6.87
6.24
3.26
2.40
9.27
9.85
5.11
15.00
7.60
2.01
8.70
1.96
3.80
4.57
9.45
1.99
2.25
1.65
4.29
.75
1.33
2.42
3.16
8.25
1.75
4.11
13.80
13.20
16.32
6.59
5.25
4.65
10.92
14.27
5.94
16.33
10.02
2.01
11.86
9.14
3.71
265.14
14,612.76
892.06
918.82
668.52
807.82
1,103.21
2,658.98
9,774.76
8,391.69
9,518.61
6,499.09
221.73
8,670.91
1,609.19
' 661.94
Bond, Int. High
General & Red. School
District No.
98
99
100
101
102
103
104
105
106
Jt.l
Valuation
154,400
103,285
285,810
143,800
54,580
48,330
24,420
240,315
97,220
$34,229,131
Levy
5.17
9.05
10.00
2.35
3.68
6.40
10.00
10.00
7.76
5.70
Fund District
2.17
4.03
1.05
10.72
5.90
1.20
1.71
3.50
1.00
4.18
4.67
.42
Total
Levy
7.34
14.08
11.38
6.53
19.07
6.40
15.90
11.20
9.89
9.20
Tax
1,133.33
1.454.24
3,252.55
939.(M
1,040.86
309.33
388.29
378.23
2,376.74
894.33
$317,205.37
Total Valuation -
TOTAL TAX LEVIED ON 1917 ROLLS
..-$34,229,131
Bro't fwd. from page 1.
Bro't fwd. from page 2-
Bro't fwd. from page 3.
DETAIL OF RECEIPTS
From Taxation
STATE—
General $ 57.692.61
School , 66,603.41
Military '. --. 6.218.91
Highway, Public 31,367.20
.$ 683,898.07
. 387,103.07
. 317,205.37
$1,388,207.33
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 319
Highway, Permanent 47,005.07
Higher Education 33,314.89
Total $242,202.09
COUNTY—
Current Expense $147,160.71
School 133,426.61
Road and Bridge 68,329.43
Indigent Soldiers 866.96
Bond Redemption 23,808.81
Horticuhure 158.14
Total $373,710.66
CITIES AND TOWNS—
Yakima $150,816.78
Union Gap 1,014.14
Wapato 2,634.79
Toppenish 20,300.28
Mabton 4,345.09
Granger 2.922.97
Sunnyside 12,454.57
Grandview 3,314.24
Zillah 2,634-.12
Total $200,426.98
Road Districts $133,638.88
Drainage Districts (Construction) 8,017.59
Dike Districts 1,096.22
Schools— Special Tax 219,740.29
Schools— Bond Redemption 77,070.45
Drainage Districts — Maintenance 5,284.32
Drainage Districts — Bond Interest 5,764.84
GRAND TOTAL— Tax Collections $1,266,952.32
Detail of Receipts From Miscellaneous Sources
AUDITOR'S OFFICE— Fund Credited Detail
Filing and Recording C. E. $14,332.95
Marriage Licenses (Auditor's $2 fee only) C. E. 1,117.00
Sundry Licenses C. E. 3.00
Certified Copies C. E. 134.45
Searching Records C. E. 17.25
Satisfactions C. E. 145.75
Acknowledgments and Affidavits C. E. 805.75
Estrays Registered C. E. 27.50
320 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Certificates C. E. 100.50
Liquor Permits C. E. 5,061.50
Miscellaneous C. E. 5.90
Auto Licenses C. E. 495.00
Total Earnings $ 22,246.55
Trust Assurance Fund .60
Hunters' Licenses — County County Game 7,466.50
Hunters' Licenses — State State Game 1,008.50
Total $ 8,475.60
Clerk's $1.00 Marriage License Recording Fee--$56O.0O
CLERK'S OFFICE—
Civil Earnings C. E. ,$7,903.00
Civil Miscellaneous C. E. 370.45
Notarial Certificates C. E. 87.00
Marriages C. E. 602.60
Transcript on Appeal C. E. 201.80
Probate Fees Earned C. E. 1,637.00
Probate Miscellaneous C. E. 156.45
Criminal Earned C. E. 312.40
Total $ 11.270.70
Court Stenographer's Cost C. E. $1,397.00 $ 1,397.00
TREASURER'S OFFICE—
Issuing Tax Deeds C. E. .$ 90.00
Certificates of Delinquency C. E. 371.00
Total $ 461.00
SHERIFF'S OFFICE—
Deeds C. E. $ 348.00
Fees C.E. 1,315.75
Mileage C.E. 1,399.95
Total $ 3,063.70
Justice of the Peace— Fees C.E. $ 1,211.95
Fines — Humane C. E. 45.00
Coroner's Fees C.E. 3.20
County Justices C. E. 39.00
Auditor — (Marriage Trust Fund) — Old
Unrecorded C.E. 13.00
Miscellaneous Licenses C.E. 150.00
Constable's Office — Fees C. E. 349.00
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 321
Gen'l Road and Bridge— Sales Gen'l R. & B. $5,881.22
Refunds " 1,339.20
Rents " 75.70
Forest Reserve " 2,007.83 9,303.95
Fines Permanent Highway P. H. 700.00
Fines State School State School 3,706.20
County Hospital— Receipts of State Medical State Gen. 30.00 4,436.20
Permanent Highway Maintenance — From
State P. H. M. 23,557.35
Refunds P. H. M. 6.75 23,564.10
Costs— Criminal Cases from State C. E. 1,222.00 1,222.00
Permanent Highway— Refunds P. H. 140.00 140.00
Fines Game 381.68
Sales Game 2.02 383.70
COUNTY SUPERINTENDENT'S OFFICE—
Schools— Tuition from Outside Pupils Dist. S. S3,472.99
Sale of Property 742.15
Sale of Sundry Supplies 120.15
Book Fines 26.65
Proceeds from Entertainments 23.50
Forest Reserve 1,400.00
Refunds 23.93
Investments 166.72
Benton County Taxes — Joint Districts 655.81
Benton County Bond Redemption Taxes 247.68
Total $ 6,879.58
Examinations Institute 239.00 239.00
Sale of Registers and Records State Gen. 28.20 28.20
School Bonds Sold 159,185.00 159,185.00
Interest Earned on Bond Redemption Fund Bond Red. 480.82 480.82
Miscellaneous Fines State Gen. 25.00 25.00
State Apportionment (Am't remitted by
State only) State G. Sch. 67,166.82 67,166.82
LOCAL IMPROVEMENTS, Cities—
Yakima Cities $ 85.31
Wapato Cities 8.47
Toppenish Cities 1,656.87
Granger Cities 7.42
Sunnyside Cities 3,550.38
Grandview Cities 1,344.50
Zillah Cities 58.42 $ 6,711.37
Total $328,491.44
(21)
322 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Rent of County Property C. E. 5.00
Sale of County Property C. E. 442.60
Interest of Bank Deposits C. E. 11,054.01
Game Protection Fines (other than by J or C State Game) 14.30
Donations to County C. E. 142.94
Money found on Deceased Persons C. E. .89
Road Districts— Sale of property Dist. R. & B. 213.75
Donations 482.04
Refunds Dist. R. & B. 5.704.65
Mail Accounts Mail 225,867.48
Certificates of Redemption Funds Redemption 139,164.47
Tax Sales Tax Trust 953.58
Sales of Estrays C. E. 135.97
Advance Taxes (Platting Property) Adv. Tax 369.47
Investments C. E. 112.41
County Poor Farm Sales " 2,722.69
Refunds " 9,656.46
Refunds— Horticultural " 3,538.77
Board of Prisoners " 355.50
Unclaimed Tax Deposits— Old " 75.02
Drainage — Construction — Assessments Drainage 14,977.18
Sales " 52.80
Sale of Bonds " 229,821.58
Sale of Investment Warrants " 12,000.00
Maintenance Assessments " 7,141.17
Refunds " 30.00
Bond Redemption Assessments " 52,893.87
Interest " 1,174.33
Refunds " 88.67
Irrigation — Construction — Assessments Irrigation 45,861.01
Sales Water Rights " 3,077.65
Refunds " 54.70
Maintenance Assessments " 38,050.01
Sales " 870.27
Refunds _^ " 72.75
Bond Redemption Assessments 9,167.89
Dike Maintenance Refunds Dike 80.43
Total $ 816,426.31
Total Misc. Receipts $1,144,917.75
Interest on Del. Taxes— $ 39,819.04
GENERAL BALANCE — ALL ACCOUNTS
Receipts
Cash Balance Januar}' 1, 1917 $ 433,662.46
Receipts from Taxation 1,266,952.32
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 323
Interest on Delinquent Taxes 39,819.04
Miscellaneous Receipts 1,144,917.75
Total $2,885,351.57
Disbiii'semenis
State Funds Remitted $ 181,.S74.47
Current Expense Fund Warrants 221,409.58
Indigent Soldiers' Fund 711.20
Game Fund 6,369.77
County Institute Fund 220.27
General Road and Bridge Fund 95,359.46
School Districts General Fund 442.053.97
School Bond Redemption Fund 155,705.61
School Building Fund 73,349.52
Cities and Towns 209,857.35
Certificates of Redemption 138,980.20
Three Per Cent. Rebate on Current Taxes 12,161.19
Advance Taxes 1,032.70
County Bond Redemption Fund 8.000.00
Interest Paid on County Warrants 72,412.33
Road District Warrants 147,027.70
Drainage District Warrants 73,997.80
Dike District Warrants 2,955.20
Irrigation District Warrants 88,388.95
Permanent Highway Maintenance Warrants 21,987.81
Mail Account Paid 205,593.61
Remitted Cities, Acc't General Road and Bridge Fund 1 ,283.56
Irrigation Bonds Redeemed 1,900.00
Warrants Outstanding Jan. 1, 1917— Less Cancelled- 321,009.33
Total $2,483,341.58
Auditor's Balance Dec. 31, 1917 402,009.99
Warrants Outstanding Dec. 31, 1917 124,918.48
Treasurer's Cash Balance Dec. 31, 1917 $ 526,928.47
YAKIMA EXPORT PRODUCTION EXCEEDS $28,000,000.00
REPORT OF YAKIMA COMMERCIAL CLUB OF 1918.
So much has been said and written about the annual production for export
in the Yakima Valley that the trustees of the Yakima Commercial Club feel it
incumbent to make an authoritative statement giving the totals of the 1917
shipments accurately compiled, and disseminate other information concerning
that part of the valley covered by the report. There has never been a greater
inquiry than at present concerning Yakima Valley and this publication is de-
signed to cover a range of the most frequent questions asked.
324 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \'ALLEY
The Yakima Valley in its broadest sense includes all the watershed of the
Yakima River, but in an accepted sense it has come to be restricted to that por-
tion contained in Yakima and Benton counties, more especially that portion under
irrigation. A carefully revised report of the range and value of the crops grown
in this section given in detail in this publication shows a total of over $28,000,000.
It is doubtful if any similar area in the United States can make an equal showing.
Yakima Valley, with its present splendid development and its future promise,
is the product of irrigation. One of the greatest government reclamation proj-
ects is directly responsible for the Yakima Valley of today and tomorrow, and
if there were no other monument ever erected to the honor of this branch of the
government, the department could point with pride to this achievement.
Under irrigation a sagebrush plain has been converted into one of the
most fertile and productive agricultural sections of the world. The irrigation
possible in the whole of the Yakima Valley as established after a most care-
ful survey by government engineers is 525,000 acres. Of this total 360,000
acres are in Yakima County and 75,000 acres in Benton County, the remainder
being in Kittitas County, the production and export of which territory is not
considered in this publication.
Irrigation in the Yakima Valley is being developed under government
guaranty. The lands are privately owned and moderately priced, ranging
from $150 to $250 per acre for farm lands, and from $350 to $1,000 for
orchard lands, but the government furnishes the water, asking only such return
as is occasioned by the cost of construction and maintenance. The payment
for the water on the government projects is distributed over a period of twenty
years under the liberal terms of the law of 1914, which requires only the re-
payment of the principal without interest.
The whole of the government reclamation work in this valley is officially
designated as the Yakima Project, but it is divided into xmits known locally as
the Sunnyside, Tieton and Wapato Projects. The source of water supply is
the Yakima River and its tributaries, and to obviate any possibility of shortage
the government has included in its plans the construction of five great reservoirs
located at Bumping Lake, Lake Kachess, Lake Keechelus, AIcAllister Meadows
and Lake Clealum. The first three have been completed and the fourth is now
in process of construction. In addition to the irrigation work done by the
Reclamation Service there are numerous canals under private and corporate
ownership. The total area watered in this way is approximately 50.000 acres.
The Sunnyside Project is the oldest of the government units in point of
development. The government took over the Sunnyside by purchase in 1905
and has expended $2,500,000 in its development. The canal is of earth, but
has been recently improved in sections by concrete lining. Aside from lands
watered by gravity flow, there have been added from lime to time pumping
plant units, the most recent being at Snipes Mountain, Outlook and Grand-
view. Of the 130,000 acres that may be watered from the Sunnyside either
directly or indirectly, 90,000 acres are now in crop for the season of 1918. The
government crop report for the season of 1917 gave a total value of $8,006,233
for the production on 65,853 acres, an average of $121.67 per acre.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 325
The Tieton Project is designed to irrigate 32,000 acres on the high lands
west of Yakima. The government has made a total expenditure of $3,500,000
in developing this project and contemplates some additional improvements in
the near future. About 26,000 acres of the Tieton Project is now producing.
The canal was completed in 1912 and the orchards on the project are just
coming into bearing. A branch of the Northern Pacific Railway was completed
last year tapping the heart of the Tieton and solving its transportation prob-
lems. The terminus of the road is at Tieton, which tjwnsite is now being
placed on the market.
The Wapato Project is on the Yakima Indian reservation and is designed
to irrigate 120,000 acres. For the season of 1918, 75,000 jcres will be cropped.
Congress has recently passed an appropriation bill carrying $500,000 for ex-
penditure on the Wapato Project within the present fiscal year. This will be
used in extending canals to improve the system of distribution that new
areas may be watered. Engineers in charge of the work estimate that an addi-
tional 20,000 acres will be furnished with water for the season of 1919. The
Indian Reclamation Service spent in the last two years $400,000 in building
a diversion dam in the Yakima River at Union Gap and in beginning the im-
provement of the canal system. Aside from the development of the Wapato
project under water diverted from the Yakima River, the government plans
ultimately to reclaim an additional 60,000 acres by water from storage reser-
voirs located on Toppenish, Simcoe and Ahtanum creeks.
Development in the Yakima Valley is progressive, and will continue for
the next ten years or more, depending upon the rate at which the government
will appropriate money to mature its plans. There is no single project that is
yet completed. There are 20,000 acres under the Sunnyside still to be re-
claimed, though water is available and the distributive system completed. On
the Tieton Project there are 6,000 acres of sagebrush land and on the Wapato
Project 47,000 acres. Under the Sunnyside and the Tieton it is possible for
every acre to be put in crop in 1919, and it is estimated thr.t 6,500 acres of new
land will be cropped in the present year, while under the Wapato Project the
government is still developing the distributing system. Water is available, but
canals and laterals must be excavated.
As an indication of preparation flor progressive development of the
Yakima Project, the government is spending this year over $1,500,000 in con-
structive work distributed as follows: $500,000 on the Wapato Project,
$150,000 on the Tieton, $35,000 at Clear Creek dam and $900,000 at McAllister
Meadows storage. Private corporations are spending something like $400,000
in betterments. Several of the private corporations ha\e contracted with the
Reclamation Service for storage water supplementing! their own diversions
and guarding the future against losses by reason of shortage. To date the
government has spent about $10,000,000 on the Yakima Project and contem-
plates spending $10,000,000 more within the next ten or twenty years.
Large as the crop production was in 1917, increased acreage in farm crops
on the one hand and increased maturity of orchards on the other insures larger
crops for 1918 and for any normal year for many years to come. In the
326 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \' ALLEY
matter of possibilities of fruit production alone Yakima Valley has 6,000 acres
of orchard not yet come into bearing. A farm survey of Yakima County
made by J. N. Price, county agriculturist, shows there is in crop this season
85,000 acres of alfalfa, 15,500 acres of corn, 32,000 acres of wheat, 14,000
acres of sugar beets, 12,000 acres of potatoes, 3,000 acres of oats, 7,000 acres
of barley, 2,400 acres of beans and 46,000 acres of fruit. With this acreage
all under irrigation and intensive cultivation, the yield of the 1918 harvest is
certain to set a new high record for production.
The following tabulated statement of Yakima export crops for the year
1917 is made after careful checking with the transportation companies on the
basis of actual shipments and rechecking with shippers ?s to the average re-
turns. The tabulation shows the range and value of the exports only and does
not take into consideration the part of the crop consumed at home or crops
grown to feed stock subsequently marketed. For instance, it takes no account
of the corn grown on 14,000 acres which was used for feed for meat or for
dairy production, nor does it take into account the tonnage of sugar beets, but
it does account for the output of the sugar factory.
SOME CONCLUDING STATISTICS
We are giving at the conclusion of this chapter a summary of the pro-
ductions of Yakima and Benton counties for 1917. This was prepared by the
Yakima Commercial Club. We are not able to segregate accurately the two
counties, but it may be believed that the totals of each county would be approx-
imately in the ratio of population, or about as five and a half to one for
Yakima.
Cars FRUIT—
60 Strawberries— 48,000 crates @ $3 $ 144,000
160 Cherries— 1,200 tons @ 8c pound 192.000
170 Prunes— 170,000 crates @ 87c 147,500
8,700' Apples— 6,525,000 boxes @ $1.25 8,156,250
1.750 Peaches— 2,100,000 boxes @ 50c 1,050,000
1,950 Pears— 994,500 boxes @ $1.30 1,292,850
7 Apricots— 7,700 boxes @ $1 7,700
10 Grapes @ $600 per car 6,000
480 Mixed Fruit @ $775 per car 372,000
240 Cantaloupes— 96,000 crates @ $1.25 120,000
120 Watermelons— 1,800 tons @ $20 36.000
13,647 $11,524,300
VEGETABLES—
200 Onions— 3,000 tons @ $40 $ 120,000
40 Turnips— 600 tons @ $20 12.000
10 Green Corn @ $525 per car 5,250
20 Carrots— 300 tons @ $18 5.400
25 Rutabagas— 500 tons @ $20 10.000
12 Cabbage— 144 tons @ $30 4,320
BEE RAXCII, YAKIMA COITXTY
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 327
5 Asparagus— 100,000 lbs. @ ^12>4<: 12,500
75 Tomatoes— 85,050 crates @ 50c 42,525
10 Green Peppers— 200,000 lbs. @ 5c lo'oOO
20 Squash— 200 tons @ $20 4,000
10 Pumpkins— 100 tons @ $15 1,500
30 Beans— 600 tons @ 6c lb. 72,000
2,500 Potatoes— 50,000 tons @ $20 1,000^000
Garden Truck — miscellaneous 25,000
2,957 $ 1,324.495
HAY—
9,353 Alfalfa— 140,295 tons @ $21 $ 2,946,195
12,000 tons fed to stock in transit @ $15 180,000
$ 3,126,195
GRAINS—
546 Wheat— 764,750 bu. @ $1.90 $ 1,453,025
60 Oats— 84,000 bu. @ 80c 67,200
44 Barley— 61,600 bu. @ $1.15 70,840
650 $ 1,591,065
HOPS—
158 3,000,000 lbs. @ 12c $ 360,000
LIVESTOCK—
1,015 Sheep @ $2,750 per car $ 2,791,250
240 Hogs @ $2,700 per car 648,000
210 Beef @ $2,200 per car 462,000
40 Cattle, breeder's stock, 1000 head @ $125 125,000
40 Horses, 880 head @ $150 132,000
6 Pouhry— 90,000 lbs. @ 21^c 19,500
1,551 Total Livestock $ 4,177,750
LIVESTOCK PRODUCTS—
72 Wool— 2,300,000 lbs. @ 45c $ 1,035,000
16 Hides, Pelts and Tallow 190,000
88 Total Livestock Products $ 1,225,000
DAIRY PRODUCTS—
233 Cream— 350,000 gallons @ $1.20 $ 420,000
30 Butter— 1,200,000 lbs. @ 45c 540,000
8 Cheese— 300,000 lbs. @ 25c 75,000
75 Condensed Milk— 1,500 tons @ $200 300,000
346 Total Dairy Products $ 1,335,000
328 HISTORY OF YAKOIA VALLEY
SUGAR BEETS—
285 Sugar— 8,550 tons @ 614c lb $ 1,068,750
206 Dried Pulp— 3,100 tons @ $25 77,500
491 Total Sugar Beet Products $ 1,146,250
HONEY—
25 750,000 lbs. @ ll^c $ 88,125
FRUIT AND VEGETABLE PRODUCTS—
635 Enumerated as follows:
400 cars Canned Fruits
130 cars Cider
65 cars Dried Apples
40 cars Grape Juice
Value $ 1,277,375
1,500 LUMBER $ 1,000,000
31,401 $28,175,555
It is believed by tbe secretary of the Yakima Commercial Club that the total
product for 1918 will be $35,000,000.
We may add to the above that the figures of the state bureau of statistics
for 1918 are not yet complete. For wheat, corn and potatoes, however, they
are given as follows : Wheat, 1,104,200 bushels ; corn, 690,900 bushels ; pota-
toes, 2,059,025 bushels. These figures, it should be noted, are for Yakima
County only. We shall give those of Benton County in a later chapter.
The bureau of statistics estimated the population of Yakima County as
62,043 on July 1, 1917.
CHAPTER III
THE TRANSPORTATION AGE
THE STEAMBOAT ERA — OREGON STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY — CAPTAINS^
PILOTS. AND PURSERS THE PIONEER STAGE LINES THE RAILROAD AGEi —
THE WAR ON THE RAILROAD — THE GREAT BOOM — NEW RAILWAY LINES —
THE INTERURBAN RAILWAYS — WATER TRANSPORTATION
It is but trite and commonplace to say (yet these commonplace sayings
embody the accumulated experience of the human race) that transportation is
the very A B C of economic science. There can be no wealth without ex-
change. There is no assignable value either to commodities or labor without
markets.
New communities have always had to struggle with these fundamental
problems of transportation. Until there can be at least some exchange of
products there can be no real commercial life and men's labor is spent simply
on producing the articles needful for daily bread, clothing and shelter. Most
of the successive "Wests" of America have gone through that stage of simple
existence. Some have gotten out of it very rapidly, usually by the discovery
of the precious metals or the production of some great staple like furs, so
much in demand and so scarce in distant countries as to justify expensive and
even dangerous expeditions and costly transportation systems. During nearly
all the first half of the Nineteenth Century the fur trade was that agency
which created exchange and compelled transportation.
After the acquisition of Oregon and California by the United States
there was a lull, during which there was scarcely any commercial life because
there was nothing exchangeable or transportable.
Then suddenly came the dramatic discovery of gold in California which
inaugurated there a new era of commercial life and hence demanded exten-
sive transportation, and that was for many years necessarily by the ocean.
The similar discovery in Oregon came ten years later. As we saw in an earlier
chapter of this part there came on suddenly in the early sixties a rushing to-
gether in old Walla \\'alla of a confused mass of eager seekers for gold, cattle
range, and every species of the opportunities which were thought to exist in
the "upper country." As men began to get the measure of the country and
each other and to see sometliing of what this land was going to become, the
demand for some regular system of transportation became imperative.
THE STEAMBOAT ERA
The first resource was naturally by the water. It was obvious that team-
ing from the Willamette Valley (the only productive region in the fifties and
329
330 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \-ALLEY
the first year or two of the sixties) was too limited a means to amount to any-
thing. Bateaux after the fashion of the Hudson's Bay Company would not
do for the new era. JNIen could indeed drive stock over the mountains and
across the plains, and did so to considerable degree. But as the full measure
of the problem was taken it became clear to the active, ambitious men who
flocked into the Walla Walla country (the first settled east of the Cascades)
in 1858, 1859, and 1860, and particularly when the discovery of gold became
known in 1861, that nothing but the establishment of steamboats on the Colum-
bia and Snake rivers would answer the demand for a real system of transpor-
tation commensurate with the situation.
To fully appreciate the era of steamboating and to revive the memories
of the pioneers of this region in those halcyon days of river traffic, it is fitting
that we trace briefly the essential stages from the first appearance of steamers
on the Columbia River and its tributaries. To accomplish this section of the
story we are incorporating here several paragraphs from "The Columbia
River" by the author of this work.
The first river steamer of any size to ply upon the Willamette and Colum-
bia was the "Lot Whitcomb." This steamer was built by Whitcomb and Jen-
nings. J. C. Ainsworth was the first captain, and Jacob Kamm was the first
engineer. Both of these men became leaders in every species of steamboating
enterprise. In 1861 Dan Bradford and B. B. Bishop inaugurated a movement
to connect the up-river region with the lower river by getting a small iron
propeller called the "Jason F. Flint" from the east and putting her together
at the Cascades, whence she made the run to Portland. The Flint has been
named as first to run above the Cascades, but the author has the authority of
Mr. Bishop for stating that the first steamer to run above the Cascades was
the "Eagle." That steamer was brought in sections by Allen McKinley to
the upper Cascades in 1853, there put together, and set to plying on the part
of the river between the Cascades and The Dalles. In 1854 the "Mary" was
built and launched above the Cascades, the next year the "Wasco" followed,
and in 1856 the "Hassalo" began to toot her jubilant horn at the precipices
of the mid-Columbia. In 1859 R. R. Thompson and Lawrence Coe built the
"Colonel Wright," the first steamer on the upper section of the river. In the
same year the same men built at the upper Cascades a steamer called the
"Venture." This craft met with a curious catastrophe. For on her very first
trip she swung too far into the channel and was carried over the upper Cas-
cades, at the point where the Cascade locks are now located. She was sub-
sequently raised and rebuilt, and rechristened the "Umatilla."
This part of the period of steamboat building was contemporary' with the
Indian wars of 1855 and 1856. The steamers "Wasco," "Mary," and "Eagle"
were of much service in rescuing victims of the murderous assault on the Cas-
cades by the Klickitats.
While the enterprising steamboat builders were thus making their way
up-river in the very teeth of Indian warfare steamboats were in course of
construction on the Willamette. The "Jennie Clark" in 1854 and the "Carrie
Ladd" in 1858 were built for the firm of Abernethy, Clark and Company.
These both, the latter especially, were really elegant steamers for the time.
TKAXSFER BOAT, FKEUEKirK HILLINGS, AT TIIK KENXEWICK IXCLIXE
E. H. Monreh.
K COI.rMHIA RIVER AT THE SUPPOSED
BRIIMiE OF THE GODS"
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 331
The close of the Indian wars in 1859 saw a quite well organized steamer
service between Portland and The Dalles, and the great rush into the upper
country was just beginning. The "Senorita," the "Belle," and the "Alult-
nomah," under the management of Benjamin Stark, were on the run from
Portland to the Cascades. A rival steamer, the "Mountain Buck," owned by
Ruckle and Olmstead, was on the same route. These steamers connected with
boats on the Cascades-Dalles section by means of portages five miles long
around the rapids. There was a portage on each side of the river. That on
the north side was operated by Bradford & Company, .ind their steamers were
the "Hassalo" and the "Mary." Ruckle and Olmstead owned the portage on
the south side of the river, and their steamer was the "Wasco." Sharp com-
petition arose between the Bradford and Stark interests on one side and
Ruckle and Olmstead on the other. The Stark company was known as the
Columbia River Navigation Company, and the rival was the Oregon Trans-
portation Company. J. C. Ains worth now joined the Stark party with the
"Carrie Ladd.' So efficient did this reinforcement prove to be that the Trans-
portation Company proposed to them a combination. This was eiTected in
April, 1859, and the new organization became known as the Union Transpor-
tation Company. This was soon found to be too loose a consolidation to
accomplish the desired ends, and the parties interested set about a new com-
bination to embrace all the steamboat men from Celilo to Astoria. The result
was the formation of the Oregon Steam Navigation Company, which came
into legal existence on December 20, 1860. Its stock in steamboats, sailboats,
wharfboats, and miscellaneous property was stated at $172,500.
Such was the genesis of the "O. S. N. Co." In a valuable article by
Irene Lincoln Poppleton in the "Oregon Historical Quarterly" for September,
1908, to which we here make acknowledgments, it is said that no assessment
was ever levied on the stock of this company, but that from the proceeds of
the business the management expended in gold nearly three million dollars
and paid out in dividends over two and a half million dollars. Never perhaps
was there such a record of money-making on such capitalization.
The source of the enormous business of the Oregon Steam Navigation
Company was the rush into Idaho, Montana and eastern Oregon and Wash-
ington by the miners, cowboys, speculators and adventurers of the early six-
ties. The up-river country, as described more at length in another chapter,
was wakened suddenly from the lethargy of centuries, and the wilderness
teemed with life. That was the great steamboat age. Money flowed in
streams. Fortunes were made and lost in a day.
OREGON STEAM N.WIGATION COM PAN V
When first organized in 1860, the Oregon Steam Navigation Company
had a nondescript lot of steamers, mainly small and weak. The two portages,
one of five miles around the Cascades and the other of fourteen miles from
The Dalles to Celilo Falls, were unequal to their task. The portages at the
Cascades on both sides of the river were made by very inadequate wooden
tramways. That at The Dalles was made by teams. Such quantities of
freight were discharged from the steamers that sometimes the whole portage
332 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
was lined with freight from end to end. The portages were not acquired by
the company with the steamboat property, and as a resuU the portage owners
reaped the larger share of the profits. During high water the portage on the
Oregon side at the Cascades had a monopoly of the business and it took one<
half the freight income from Portland to The Dalles. This was holding the
whip-hand with a vengeance, and the vigorous directors of the steamboat com-
pany could not endure it. Accordingly, they absorbed the rights of the port-
age owners, and made a new portage around the Cascades on the Washington
side. The company was reorganized under the laws of Oregon in October,
1863, with a declared capitalization of two million dollars.
Business on the river in 1863 was something enormous. Hardly ever did
a steamer make a trip with less than two hundred passengers. Freight was
olifered in such quantities at Portland that trucks had to stand in line for
blocks, waiting to deliver and receive their loads. New boats of a much
better class were built. Two rival companies, the Independent Line and the
People's Transportation Line, made a vigorous struggle to secure a share of
the business, but they were eventually overpowered. Some conception of the
amount of business may be gained from the fact that the steamers transported
passengers to an amount of fares running from $1,000 to $6,000 a trip. On
April 29, 1862, the "Tenino," leaving Celilo for the Lewiston trip, had a load
amounting to $10,945 for freight, passengers, meals, and berths. The steam-
ships sailing from Portland to San Francisco showed equally remarkable
records. On June 25, 1861, the Sierra Navada conveyed s treasure shipment
of $228,000; July 14th, $110,000; August 24th. $195,558; December 5th,
$750,000. The number of passengers carried on The Dalles-Lewiston route
in 1864 was 36,000 and the tons of freight were 21.834.
It was a magnificent steamboat ride in those days from Portland to
Lewiston. The fare was sixty dollars; meals and berths, one dollar each. A
traveler would leave Portland at five A. M. on, perhaps, the "Wilson G. Hunt,"
reach the Cascades, sixty-five miles distant, at eleven A. M., proceed by rail
five miles to the upper Cascades, there transfer to the "Oneonta" or "Idaho"
for The Dalles, passing in that run from the humid, low-lying, heavily tim-
bered west-of-the-mountains, to the dry. breezy, hilly east-of-the-mountains.
Reaching The Dalles, fifty miles farther east, he would be conveyed by another
portage railroad, fourteen miles more, to Celilo. There the "Tenino,"
"Yakima," "Nez Perce Chief," or "Owyhee" was waiting. W^ith the earliest
light of the morning the steamer would head right into the impetuous cur-
rent of the river, bound for Lewiston. two hundred and eighty miles farther
yet, taking two days, sometimes three, though only one to return. Those
steamers were mainly of the light-draught, stern-wheel structure, which still
characterizes the Columbia River boats. They were swift and roomy and well
adapted to the turbulent waters of the upper river.
C.\PTAINS, PILOTS AND PURSERS
The captains, pilots, and pur^ers of that period were as fine a set of men
as ever turned a wheel. Bold, bluft', genial, hearty, and obliging they were-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 3^3
even though given to occasional outbursts of expletives and possessing vol-
uminous repertoires of "cusswords" such as would startle the effete East. Any
old Oregonian who may chance to cast his eyes upon these pages will recall,
as with the pangs of childhood homesickness, the forms and features of steam-
boat men of that day; the polite yet detennined Ainsworth, the brusque and
rotund Reed, the bluff and hearty Knaggs, the frolicsome and never discon
certed Ingalls, the dark, powerful, and nonchalant Coe, the patriarchal beard
of Stump, the loquacious "Commodore" Wolf, who used to point out to aston-
ished tourists the "diabolical strata" on the banks of the river, the massive
and good-natured Strang, the genial and elegant O'Neill, the suave and witty
Snow, the tall and handsome Sampson, the rich Scotch brogue of McNulty,
and dozens of others, whose combined adventures would fill a volume. One
of the most experienced pilots of the upper river was Captain "Eph" Baugh-
man, who has been running on the Snake and Columbia rivers for fifty years,
and is living at the date of this publication. W. H. Gray, who came to
Waiilatpu with Whitman as secular agent of the mission, became a river man
of much skill. He gave four sons, John, Wilham, Alfred, and James, to the
service of the river, all four of them being skilled captains. A story nar-
rated to the author by Capt. William Gray, now of Pasco, Washington, well
illustrates the character of the old Columbia River navigators. W. H. Gray
was the first man to run a sailboat of much size with regular freight up Snake
River. That was in 1860 before any steamers were running on that stream.
Mr. Gray built his boat, a fifty-ton sloop, on Oosooyoos Lake on the Okano-
gan River. In it he descended that river to its entrance into the Columbia.
Thence he descended the Columbia, running down the Entiat, Rock Island,
Cabinet, and Priest Rapids, no mean undertaking of itself. Reaching the
mouth of the Snake he took on a load of freight and started up the swift
stream. At Five-mile Rapids he found that his sail was insufficient to carry
the sloop up. Men had said that it was impossible. The crew all prophesied
disaster. The stubborn captain merely declared, "There is no such word as
fail in my dictionary." He directed his son and another of the crew to take
the small boat, load her with a long coil of rope, make their way up the stream
by towing the boat at the edge of the river, until they got above the rapid,
then to come down and land on an islet of rock, fasten the rope to that rock,
then pay it out till it was swept down the rapid. They were then to descend
the rapid in the small boat. "Very likely you may be upset," added the skipper
encouragingly, "but if you are, you know how to swim." They were upset,
sure enough, but they did know how to swim. They righted their boat, picked
up the end of the floating rope, and reached the sloop with it. The rope was
attached to the capstan and the sloop was wound up by it above the swiftest
part of the rapid to a point where the sail was sufficient to carry, and on they
went rejoicing.
Any account of steamboating on the Columbia would be incomplete with-
out reference to Capt. James Troup, who was born on the Columbia, and
almost from early boyhood ran steamers upon it and its tributaries. He made
a specialty of running steamers down The Dalles and the Cascades, an under-
334 HISTORY OF YAKOIA \'ALLEY
taking sometimes rendered necessary' by the fact that more boats were built in
proportion to demand on the upper than the lower river. These were taken
down The Dalles, and sometimes down the Cascades. Once down, they could
not return. The first steamer to run down the Tumwater Falls was the
"Okanogan," on May 22, 1866, piloted by Capt. T. J. Stump.
The author enjoyed the great privilege of descending The Dalles in the
"D. S. Baker" in the year 1888, Captain Troup being in command. At that
strange point in the river, the whole vast volume is compressed into a channel
but one hundred and sixty feet wide at low water and much deeper than wide.
Like a huge mill-race this channel continues nearly -straight for two miles,
when it is hurled with frightful force against a massive blufT. Deflected from
the blufif, it turns at a sharp angle to be split in sunder by a low reef of rock.
When the "Baker" was drawn into the current at the head of the "chute" she
swept down the channel, which was almost black, with streaks of foam, to the
bluff, two miles in four minutes. There feeling the tremendous refluent wave,
she went careening over and over toward the sunken reef. The skilled cap-
tain had her perfectly in hand, and precisely at the right moment, rang the
signal bell, "Ahead, full speed," and ahead she went, just barely scratching
her side on the rock. Thus closely was it necessary to calculate distance. If
the steamer had struck the tooth-like point of the reef broadside on, she would
have been broken in two and carried in fragments on either side. Having
passed this danger point, she glided into the beautiful calm bay below and the
feat was accomplished. Capt. J. C. Ainsworth and Capt. James Troup were
the two captains above all others to whom the company entrusted the critical
task of running steamers over the rapids.
In the "Overland Monthly" of June, 1886, there is a valuable account
by Capt. Lawrence Coe of the maiden journey of the "Colonel Wright" from
Celilo up what they then termed the upper Columbia.
This first journey on that section of the river was made in April, 1859.
The pilot was Capt. Lew White. The highest point reached was Wallula,
the site of the old Hudson's Bay fort. The current was a powerful one to
withstand, no soundings had ever been made, and no boats except canoes,
bateaux, flatboats, and a few small sailboats, had ever made the trip. No
one had any conception of the location of a channel adapted to a steamboat.
No dififiiculty was experienced, however, except at the Umatilla Rapids. This
is a most singular obstruction. Three separated reefs, at intervals of half
a mile, extend right across the river. There are narrow breaks in these reefs,
but not in line with each other. Through them the water pours with a tre-
mendous velocity, and on account of their irregular locations a steamer must
zigzag across the river at imminent risk of being borne broadside onto the
reef. The passage of the Umatilla Rapids is not difificult at high water, for
then the steamer glides over the rocks in a straight course.
In the August "Overland" of the same year, Captain Coe narrates the
first steamboat trip up Snake River. This was in June, 1860, just at the
time of the beginning of the gold excitement. The "Colonel Wright" was
loaded with picks, rockers, and other mining implements, as well as provi-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA \'ALLEY 335
sions and passengers. Most of the freight and passengers were put ofif at
Walhila, to go thence overland. Part continued on to test the experiment
of making way against the wicked-looking current of Snake River. After
three days and a half from the starting point a few miles above Celilo, the
"Colonel Wright" halted at a place which was called Slaterville, thirty-seven
miles up the Clearwater from its junction with the Snake. There the
remainder of the cargo was discharged, to be hauled in wagons to the Oro
Fino mines. The steamer "Okanogan" followed the "Colonel Wright" within
a few weeks, and navigation on the Snake may be said to have fairly begun.
During that same time the city of Lewiston, named in honor of Meriwether
Lewis, the explorer, was founded at the junction of the Snake and Clear-
water rivers.
THE PIONEER STAGE LINES.
While the river traffic under the ordinary control of the "O. S. \'." Com-
pany, though with frequent periods of opposition boats, was thus promoting
the movements of commercial life along the great central artery, the need
of reaching interior points was vital. The only way of doing this and pro-
viding feeders for the boats was by stage lines and prairie schooners. As
a result of this need there developed along with the steamboats a system of
roads from certain points on the Columbia and Snake Rivers. Umatilla,
Wallula, and Lewiston became the chief of these. And in the stage lines
we have another era of utmost interest and importance in the old time days.
As we have seen, Yakima was of¥ the main routes of travel, and stage
lines never played the important and picturesque part that they did in the
Walla Walla country. Yakima pioneers, however, were as familiar as were
those of Walla Walla with the steamboats on the Columbia River. The chief
route to Klickitat and Yakima was by boat from Portland to The Dalles,
thence by road. In 1875 the road from Yakima to The Dalles was completed
and stages were running.
In 1864 there came into operation the first of the great stage systems
having transcontinental aims and policies. This was the Holladay system.
That period was the palmy times for hold-ups, Indians, prairie-schooners,
and all the other interesting and extravagant features of life, ordinarily sup-
posed to be typical of the Far West and so dominating in their efifect on the
imagination as to furnish the seed-bed for a genuine literature of the Pacific
Coast, most prominent in California with the illustrious names of Bret Harte
and Mark Twain in the van, and with Jack London, Rex Beach, and many
more in later times pursuing the same general tenor of delineation. The
Northwest has not yet had a literature comparable with California ; but the
material is here and there will yet be in due sequence a line of storj- writers,
poets and artists of the incomparable scenery and the tragic, humorous and
pathetic human associations of the Columbia and its tributaries, which will place
this northern region of the Pacific in the same rank as the more forward southern
sister. Indeed we may remark incidentally that the two most prominent Cali-
fornia poets, Joaquin Miller and Edwin Markham, belonged to Oregon, the
latter being a native of the "Web-foot State."
336 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \'ALLEY
The amount of business done by those pioneer stage Hnes was surprising.
In the issue of the Walla Walla Statesman of December December 20, 1862,
it is estimated that the amount of freight landed by the steamers at Wallula
to be distributed thence by wheel averaged about a hundred and fifty tons
weekly, and that the number of passengers, very variable, ran from fifty to
six hundred weekly.
The closing scene of the stage line drama may be said to have been the
establishment in 1871 of the Northwestern Stage Company. It connected
the Central Pacific Railroad at Kelton, Utah, with The Dalles, Pendleton,
Walla Walla, Colfax, Dayton, Lewiston, Pomeroy, and all points north and
west. During the decade of the seventies that stage line was a connecting
link not only between the railroads and the regions as yet without them, but
was also a link between two epochs, that of the stage and that of the railroad.
It did an extensive passenger business, employing regularly twenty-two
stages and 300 horses, which used annually 365 tons of grain and 412 tons
of hay. There were 150 drivers and hostlers regularly employed for that
branch of the business.
THE RAILROAD AGE.
But a new order was coming rapidly. As the decades of the sixties and
seventies belonged especially to the steamboat and the stage, so the decade
of the eighties belonged to the railroads. It is one of the most curious and
interesting facts in American history that during the period between about
1835, the coming of the missionaries, and the period of the discoveries of
gold in Idaho in 1861 and onward, there was an obstinate insistence in Con-
gress, especially the Senate — a great body indeed, but at times the very
apotheosis of conservative imbecility — that Oregon could never be practically
connected with the older parts of the country, but must remain a wilderness.
But there were some progressives. When Isaac I. Stevens was appointed
governor of Washington Territory in 1853 he had charge of a surs'ey with
a view of determining a practicable route for a Northern Pacific Railroad.
It is very interesting to read his instructions to George B. McClellan,
then one of his assistants. "The route is from St. Paul, Minnesota, to Puget
Sound by the great bend of the Mississippi River, through a pass in the
mountains near the forty-ninth parallel. A strong party will go up the Mis-
souri to the Yellowstone, and there make arrangements, reconnoitre the coun-
try, etc., and on the junction of the main party they will push through the
Blackfoot country, and reaching the Rocky Mountains will keep at work
there during the Summer months. The third party, under your command, will
be organized in the Puget Sound region, you and your scientific corps going
over the Isthmus, and will operate in the Cascade Range and meet the party
coming from the Rocky Mountains. The amount of work in the Cascade
Range and eastward, say to the probable junction of the parties at the great
bend of the North fork of the Columbia River, will be immense. Recollect,
the main object is a railroad survey from the headwater? of the Mississippi
River to Puget Sound. We must not be frightened by iong tunnels or enor-
mous snows, but must set ourselves to work to overcome ihem."
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 337
Growing out of the abundant agitation going on for twenty years after
the start given it by Governor Stevens, the movement for a Northern Pacific
Railroad focaHzed in 1870 by a contract made between the promoters and
Jay Cooke & Company to sell bonds.
Work was begun on the section of the Northern Pacific Railroad between
Kalama on the Columbia and Puget Sound in 1870, but the financial panic of
1873 crippled and even ruined many great business houses, among others Jay
Cooke & Company, and for several years construction was at a standstill.
In 1879 the Northern Pacific Railroad Company was reorganized, work was
resumed and never ceased till the iron horse had dnmk out of Lake Superior,
the Columbia, and Puget Sound.
One of the most spectacular chapters in the history of railroading in the
Northwest was that of the "blind pool" by which Henry Villard, president of
the Oregon Railway and Navigation Company, obtained in 1881 the control
of a majority of the stock of the "N. P." and became its president. The
essential aim of this series of occult finances was to divert the Northern road
from its proposed terminus of Puget Sound and annex it to the interests
centering in Portland.
In 1883 the road was pushed on from Duluth to Wallula and thence by
union with the O. R. R. & N. was carried on down the Columbia. The feverish
haste, reckless outlay, and in places dangerous construction of that section
along the crags and through the shaded glens and in front of the waterfalls
on the banks of the great river, constitute one of the dramas of building.
Even more spectacular came the gorgeous pageantry of the Villard excursion
in October, 1883, in which Grant, Evarts, and others of the most distinguished
of Americans participated, and in which Oregon and the Northwest in general
were entertained in Portland with lavish hospitality, and in which Villard rode
upon the crest of the greatest wave of power and popularity that had been
seen in the history of the Northwest. But in the very moment of his triumph
he fell with a "dull, sickening thud." In fact even while being lauded and
feted as the great railroad builder he must have known of the impending
crash. For skilful manipulations of the stock market by the Wright interests
had dispossessed Villard of his majority control, a general collapse in Portland
followed, and the Puget Sound terminal was established at the "City of
Destiny," Tacoma. Not till 1890, however, was the great tunnel at Stampede
Pass completed and the Northern Pacific fairly established upon its great
route.
The years 1883 to 1888 were eventful in the Yakima country. Up to that
time, the influx of population had been slow. Practically the raising of stock
was the only business which offered financial returns. During the later seven-
ties indeed there were not wanting settlers with the vision to see the capabilities
of those vast and fertile though arid valleys. Considerable progress had been
made in starting irrigation systems. But those were small afi'airs and there
was not the unity of action to coordinate effort in irrigation systems such as
was necessary to produce large development. In spite of the scanty popula-
tion, meager facilities for commercial relations with the main trade centers,
(22)
338 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \-ALLEY
and generally primitive conditions, the pioneer builders of Yakima were wide
awake and enterprising, and were watching the transcontinental railroad
movements with eager interest. It was obvious that any railway to Puget
Sound must pass through the Yakima Valley. When the great Villard coup
d'etat seemed to direct the northern system to Portland rather than the Sound,
the disappointment in Yakima was keen. For a decade the settlers there had
been suffering from the sickness of "hope deferred," and now it seemed as
though they must wait another decade for the fruition of their hopes. The
swift transition by which the Wright forces supplanted those of Villard in
control of the Northern Pacific was therefore most gratifying.
In 1883 during the Villard regime the section of the Northern Pacific
from Kennewick nearly to Kiona was completed. The existence of the
immense land grant to Puget Sound made it necessary that work be done to
hold that grant. Construction was rapidly pushed up the valley during 1884
and at the close of that year the first train pulled into North Yakima. There
the progress of building stopped for two years. This halting in the great task
was attributed by President Robert Harris to the difftcully of negotiating the
ragged Yakima canon between Selah and near Ellensburg, and to the necessity
of elaborate surveys for determining the most feasible and economical route
over the Cascade Mountains. President Harris stated in a report of 1884
that the company had selected the Stampede Pass as the most suitable, a pass
whose highest point is 3,693 feet above sea level. He stated that a tunnel
would be required, two miles in length, of which the elevation would be 2,885
feet. The program of getting over the pass by a switch-back was completed
in 1888, and the great tunnel was opened to traffic in 1890.
THE WAR ON THE RAILROAD.
But explanations of difficulties of canons and mountains were not satis-
factory to some of the citizens of Kittitas and Yakima. The question of
forfeiture of the unearned land grant took on an acute stage both locally and
in Congress. Complicated with it in Yakima City w-as the burning question
of removal to the new townsite of North Yakima. The election of Charles
Voorhees as delegate to Congress in 1884 turned largely on the railroad question.
As well illustrating the agitated state of the public mind in this railroad fight,
we are incorporating here certain resolutions both for and against. In March,
1884, public meetings were held at Yakima City and Ellensburg. The resolu-
tions at the former, supporting the demand of the railroad company for an
extension of time, are as f611ows :
We, The citizens of Yakima County, would most respectfully represent
that :
Whereas, Congress did grant to the Northern Pacific Railroad Company
a certain piece of land along either side of said proposed railway from Duluth
to Puget Sound, in aid of the construction of said road.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA WALLEY 339
Whereas, said railway company was organized upon the basis of said
grant, and
Whereas, said company did in 1869 in good faith commence and prosecute
the survey of said road and commence construction thereof in good faith, and
with the intent of completing the same at the earliest practicable time, as their
work will show as follows: From the year 1869 to 1873 they made continued
surveys from the eastern end to the point designated by Congress as the
western end, through a wilderness and desert entirely unknown either to
railway engineers or other intelligent people, but a country given up to savages
from whom it was impossible to procure information of a valuable nature.
The results of said surveys were compiled at great expense and time, and
the maps and profiles filed and the withdrawals made. The company also
prior to 1873 constructed what is know-n as the Pacific Division from Kalama
to Tacoma, also about five hundred miles of the eastern end of said road, and
were at the time of the great panic of 1873 pushing their work to the utmost,
and
Whereas, At or about this time our government did resolve to or agitate
the question of a return to specie payment, and by its action threw the country
into a financial panic which extended from the Atlantic to the Pacific coast
and from Maine to the Gulf of Mexico, thereby at once putting an end to
the prosecution of all public works, and more particularly the Northern
Pacific Railroad, then in its infancy, and
Whereas, By said action they forced said company to suspend work and
into insolvency, and
Whereas, it was not until the year 1879 that confidence was so restored
in the finances of the country that the railway construction of the country
could be resumed, and
Whereas, The said Northern Pacific Railroad did in that year reorganize and
get into working condition and did immediately commence w-ork and have prose-
cuted the same from that time to the present with the greatest energy, at an
enormous expense and under the greatest difificulties, working through snow
and ice, heat and cold, and have succeeded in giving us a continental line of
railroad from a point on the Columbia River to the Atlantic Coast, and
Whereas, There remains an uncompleted portion of said road from the
Columbia River to Puget Sound, the western terminus, which was contem-
plated by the grant and which is of the greatest importance to Washington
Territory, and more particularly to the citizens of Yakima County and others
settled along the line, as well as to said company, who cannot have a con-
tinuous line as intended by the grant unless said line is constructed, and
Whereas, There seem to be rival interests which are favoring the for-
feiture of said land grant, to the great detriment of the whole of Washington
Territory, and more particularly to Yakima County and the sections of coun-
try said Cascade Division of the Northern Pacific Railroad traverses, be it
Resolved, That we, the citizens of Yakima and vicinity, assembled, do
most respectfully petition Congress to take such action as will insure to the
340 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Northern Pacific Railroad Company their land grant and to the people the
speedy completion of said road ; and be it further
Resolved, That we cordially endorse the bill introduced by our delegate
in Congress, the Hon. Thomas H. Brents, in reference to the Cascade Division,
to-wit: That the time for construction be extended two years from January
1, 1884; that the odd sections granted them be sold at ihe rate of $2.60 per
acre ($4.-00 on time), and we earnestly request our delegate to use all means
in his power to have said bill passed by Congress.
The Ellensburg resolutions were as follows :
Whereas, By an Act of Congress in 1864, half of a strip of land eighty
miles in width was granted to the Northern Pacific Railroad Company to aid
in the construction of a railroad from Lake Superior to Puget Sound; and
Whereas, The original grant was large and valuable enough in itself to
build the road within the time specified in the granting act without further
aid, and now that eight years have elapsed since the grant has expired; and
Whereas, The original intent of the granting act was to open up what
was then a wild and uninhabited region of our country — to act as the fore-
runner of civilization — whilst now thrifty and intelligent communities have
sprung up in advance of construction, making the trafific alone highly remu-
nerative for a railroad, consequently the original intent has ceased and become
null and void ; and
Whereas, By subsidizing newspapers, sending agents out to misrepresent
the true sentiments of the people by making a show of work before the assembling
of each session of Congress ; and
Whereas, By forming the blind pool and buying the Seattle & Walla
Walla Railroad, with their grant in the way, they have forestalled action on
the part of other companies ; and
Whereas, By one-half of the land being withdrawn from settlement, the
growth of the country has been retarded, immigration checked, business stag-
nated, lands from which no revenue could be collected and settlers on such
lands handicapped ; therefore
Resolved, That the lands lying along the Cascade Division of the Northern
Pacific Railroad have unjustly been withheld from settlement for a period of
twenty years, thereby filling the cofters of a predaceous monopoly at the
expense of the poor frontiersman.
Resolved, That these lands belong, and of right ought to belong, to the
people, and that we most emphatically condemn the pol;cy of Congress in
taking away the poor man's heritage and giving it to stock gamblers and rail-
road sharks.
Resolved, That the action of the several boards of trade of Seattle,
Walla Walla and Tacoma, praying for Congress to extend the grant, would
shine out far more brilliantly had they shown their zeal for their masters in
giving something they had a shadow of right to give. These boards of trade
have already a railroad and they can well be magnanimous in giving away
other people's property.
Resolved, That we are opposed to any further time being extended to
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 341
the Northern Pacific Railroad or to Congress' fixing any price per acre on
railroad lands.
Resolved, That we, the settlers of Kittitas County, in mass meeting
assembled, are in favor of an unconditional and absolute forfeiture of all the
lands along the Cascade Division of the Northern Pacific Railroad.
Resolved, That we learn from our present delegate in Congress that the
only knowledge he has of our present situation is through the action of our
late Legislative Assembly. Therefore, we view with surprise and indignation
the action of our late representative, John A. Shoudy, in refusing to memorial-
ize Congress to forfeit the land grant of the Cascade Division of the Northern
Pacific Railroad and in exempting their property from taxation.
Resolved, That we heartily and unequivocally endorse the course of
Mr. and Mrs. J. M. Adams, of the Yakima Signal, in advocating and cham-
pioning the cause of the poor man and in standing by the rights of the people
in their fight with a vast corporate power, in refusing all their overtures of
place and preferment, and that we recommend the Signal as the best family
paper in our midst and that we will do all in our power to sustain the Signal
in its efforts for right.
Resolved, That a copy of these resolutions be forwarded to the chairman
of each committee on public lands of both houses of Congress : also to Judge
Payson, Hons. William S. Holman, Cobb, Slater, Scales and Henley, and be
published in both county newspapers, the Yakima Signal and Klickatat
Sentinel, The Dalles Mountaineer and the Post-Intelligencer.
F. S. Thorp,
F. D. SCHNEBLY,
B. E. Craig,
S. T. Sterling, Secretary. Committee.
Ellensburgh, Washington Territory, March 22, 1884.
THE GREAT BOOM.
But in spite of contention, political struggles, financial troubles, dififitult
Canons to contend with and precipitous mountains to overcome, all obstacles,
legal and natural, were overcome and the Northern Pacific Railroad became an
acconiijlished fact. And whatever may be thought of the justice and wisdom of
land grants and railroad monopoly, there is no question of the tremendous effect
which this railroad wrought upon the Yakima Valley. The whole viewpoint
was changed. Hitherto isolated and with the types of business and the habits of
thought engendered by the itock period and the pioneer methods, the Valley
was suddenly thrown into the push and hurry and flurry of modern business
methods. Population rushed in from the east. Land values rose rapidly. A
fever for speculation seized upon the country. The boomer boomed, the pro-
moter promoted, and the sucker sucked. It was a great time, — that period from
1884 to 1890. But it was like other sprees of prosperity. There was an
awakening, and it was an awakening which carried with it a heavy head and a
dark-brown taste in the mouth. Some that went up like rockets in 1886 or 1889
came down like badly dislocated sticks in 1892 or 1893. But yet again Yakima
and Kittitas, like Walla Walla and the other southeast counties, suffered less in
342 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
the hard times of the nineties than almost any other part of the country. Specu-
lation had not gone to such wild extremes as in southern California, or on Puget
Sound, or at Spokane. Moreover, central and southeast Washington had very
tangible resources, actual yearly production of food stuffs, cattle, wool, and other
necessary and salable products to fall back on. Hence the Yakima Valley
emerged from the depression in condition to profit by the return of better times
in 1898 and thence onward. The most disastrous result of the hard times was
the failure of Ben Snipes & Company. Mr. Snipes was the foremost stockman
of the entire Valley. He was possessed of great energy and business ability, and
though he had suffered severe losses of cattle in the hard winters of 1861 and
1880 he had quickly got on his feet again. As returns had come in from his
stock business he had branched out in other lines, among them the banking busi-
ness at Ellensburgh and Roslyn. A series of special misfortunes had befallen
these banks and on June 9, 1893, both banks were compelled to close their doors.
Mr. William Abrams, junior member of the firm, made a statement of the
causes of the failure. There was a destructive fire at Ellensburgh in 1889, a
dreadful explosion in the Roslyn coal mines in May, 1892, a robbery of the
Snipes Bank at Roslyn in September, and Mr. Abrams believed that there was
some secret undermining influence working against the company. Besides these
local causes the failure of banks in large financial centers precipitated a run on
the Snipes Banks which they were unable to meet. The first receiver, I. N.
Powers, reported on March 20, 1894, the assets of the Snipes company, with
those of , Mr. Snipes, at $354,805.43 and the liabilities at ?280,054.89. The sec-
ond receiver, P. P. Gray, reported on March 29, 1900, that it was impossible to
realize on the assets anything like the estimated value. Finally it came to pass
that property valued at $140,815.07 was sold for $546.41. This ruinous deprecia-
tion caused a showing of assets on March 1, 1900, of only $42,369.93, while
liabilities were $234,062.72. The Snipes failure precipitated others. The First
National Bank of Ellensburgh closed on July 27, 1893, but was able to resume
within three months. Various other calamities and depressions made the year
1894 one long to be remembered. That was the year of the Pullman strike
which paralyzed railway traffic in considerable part of the United States. In
that same year came the "big flood" in the Columbia and tributaries, Yakima
included, the greatest ever known, when steamboats ran up Front street in
Portland. Other steamers made landings at the railway st.^tion at Wallula and
Hunt's Junction. Miles of railway were under water and a considerable mile-
age had to be rebuilt. In the Fall of 1893 torrential rains had largely ruined
the wheat crop in eastern Washington, and in 1894 the price of wheat at Walla
Walla went down to twenty-five cents a bushel. That was also the year of
"Coxey's Army." Of some of these disasters, and others, we shall speak at
more length in another chapter. We enumerate them here to note their connec-
tion with the railway situation and events which followed in its train.
NEW R.\ILWAY LINES.
For a number of years the Northern Pacific had undisputed possession of
the Yakima and Kittitas fields. The completion of the Stampede Tunnel in
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 343
1890 and the building of branch hnes into various productive regions caused a
steady gain in business, and in spite of the catastrophes of the decade of the
nineties, there was a steady increase in business. The branch Hnes to the Cowiche
and Naches and Sunnyside greatly increased the productions of the area. So
inviting a field as the rapidly developing counties of Yakima and Kittitas, as
they were in the period from 1898 to 1908 and onward, could not fail to attract
the attention of other great railway managers. The Union Pacific system
under the energetic management of E. H. Harriman was pushing in all direc-
tions, and it was the logical result of the development of that system that it
cast longing eyes upon the swiftly accumulating freights of the Yakima Valley.
Yet more important was a direct line to the Sound across the mountains. It
was obvious to all far seeing transportation men that Puget Sound would be
one of the great centers of world commerce, and that command of routes to
that center would be of tremendous moment to every transcontinental line.
A mysterious building movement began under the nominal control of Robert
Strahom of Spokane, with the name of North Coast Railroad. This was one
of the background studies in railway lines which for a time baffled the prying
curiosity of the keenest interviewers. Mr. Strahom was a veritable Sphinx,
and some attributed his construction to the Northwestern, some to the Milwau-
kee, some to the Union Pacific. Whatever the source of supply it was evident
that he had adequate financial backing. A direct line from Spokane to Ayer
Junction on Snake River, crossing the river by one of the highest bridges in
the world (268 feet above the water), to the Columbia River just below the
mouth of the Snake was completed in 1910. The Columbia was bridged and
the road completed to Yakima on March 24, 1911. It became disclosed that
this North Coast Line was backed by the Oregon Railway and Navigation
Company, which on December 24, 1911, became the Oregon-Washington Rail-
way and Navigation Company. The line from Kennewick to Yakima, crossing
the Yakima River near Kiona and continuing on the north and east side of
the river nearly to Union Gap, has become a great factor in the growth of that
magnificent region, of which Benton City, North Prosser, Grandview, Sunny-
side, Granger and Zillah, are the chief centers. At this writing Yakima is still
the terminus of this branch of the O.-W. R. R. & N. systems, but without
question it will push on to a terminal on the Sound, and in the belief of many
will put a line through the Simcoe and Klickitat regions, probably by way of
Mount Adams to a Columbia River connection, thus tapping an undeveloped
country of vast potential resources.
Yet another event of major importance in the railway world was the com-
pletion of the Milwaukee Railroad system to Puget Sound. This road was
built directly across the wheat producing section of eastern Washington to
Beverly on the Columbia and thence over the high plateau westward to the
Kittitas Valley. The first trains ran into Ellensburg in 1909. Thus the Yakima
Valley has connections with all parts of the world by three of the great trans-
continental railway lines.
One of the incidents connected with the construction of the O.-W. R. R.
& N. system into Yakima was a great struggle over the passage way through
344 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Union Gap. This pretty nearly resulted in a pitched battle, and some night
work and Sunday work, and finally an appeal to the courts. Each road was
trying to make the other as much trouble as possible, and presumably in the
end, as usual, the public — the long suffering and patient public — paid the bills
in some form.
THE INTERURBAN RAILWAYS.
Aside from the great railway systems, there is an important intenirban
system, connecting Yakima with the outlying producing centers. This system,
of which the corporate name is the Yakima Valley Tran.^portation Company,
has had an interesting history. Its inauguration was largely due to one of the
most valuable of the builders of this region, George S. Rankin. Mr. Rankin
has been connected with a large number of the most important enterprises of
Yakima. Coming first to this place in 1889, going back to his home state of
New York, and then coming again to Yakima in 1892, he assisted in launching
irrigation enterprises, town sites, mercantile establishments, banking business,
and other lines of great moment to the growing communities centering at
Yakima. None of his great undertakings, however, was more productive than
the local electric railway system. It was started in 1907. The first organiza-
tion was known as the Yakima Inter Valley Traction Company, with H. B.
Scudder as president. In 1908, there was a reorganization and the name of
Yakima Valley Transportation Company was taken. A. J. Splawn became
president, with Mr. Rankin as vice-president and manager. A local fund of
$200,000 was raised for construction purposes. Six miles were built, three
miles east and three miles west through the city. Judge Edward Whitson and
Joseph McNaughton were associated with Mr. Rankin and Mr. Splawn in
this great enterprise. The difficulty of financing so large an undertaking in
the depression beginning in 1907 was such that the company disposed of their
holdings to the North Coast Railroad Company in 1909. This meant of course
the passing of the local electric line into the ownership of the Union Pacific
R. R. Company. Extensions have been made till at the present date the Yakima
Valley Transportation Company has forty-four miles of track. It is divided
into a number of lines, city and intenirban, as follows :
Fairview line 2.9 miles.
Maple Street line 2.5 miles.
Cascade Mill line 1.9 miles.
Fourth Street line 2.6 miles.
Nob Hill line 3.0 miles.
Fruitvale line 3.1 miles.
Wiley City line 9.1 miles.
Selah line 7.1 miles.
Harwood Hne 7.3 miles.
Orchard line 4.6 miles.
In 1917 the Transportation Company shipped into its various stations six:
hundred and nineteen carloads of freight, and shipped out 2,501 carloads.
The passenger receipts show 2,048,117 passages.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 345
As part of the great transportation agencies of central Washington we
very properly name
WATER TRANSPORTATION.
The Yakima Valley indeed is not, with the exception of its eastern front
bordering the Columbia River, upon navigable water. But as part of the great
Columbia region, and particularly from the historical retrospect of the early
immigrant route by water, the employment of the Columbia River and its trib-
utaries for navigation has a permanent interest. Moreover, it is entirely pos-
sible to render the Yakima River a navigable stream by canalization. This
process is employed in Europe on rivers with less outflow than that of the
Yakima. The present vast system of improvements on the Ohio and other lesser
eastern rivers shows what may be accomplished both for navigation and power
purposes. In the arid sections irrigation by pumping becomes another great
means of utilizfsig the water. The descent of the Yakima is not so great as to
preclude tne building of dams with locks and its transformation into a series of
cafllls by which barge navigation from Union Gap dov;n would be entirely
feasible. The mouth of the Yakima is about 325 feet above sea level. Several
of the railway stations on the O.-W. line have elevations as follows : Benton
City, 464 ; North Prosser, 764 ; Sunnyside, 741 ; Granger, 743 ; Grandview, 814 ;
Midvale, 697; Zillah, 807 ; Buena, 781. Of course it is to be remembered that
these stations are at various degrees above the river level. The river just below
Union Gap is about 700 feet. Thus the canalization process would be entirely
feasible. While at present the expense would doubtless not be justified, yet the
time will come, when the Yakima Valley has ten times the population and
freightage that it has now, when an open river for barge traffic to the sea and
electric power from the dams will mean a saving of millions of dollars in cheap
transportation. Meanwhile it is of utmost interest to note that great progress
has been made in opening the Columbia River, the main artery of water
traffic, to unobstructed navigation. Steamboats of moderate draft can now go-
throughout the year from Priest Rapids, at the northern edge of Benton County,,
to the ocean, about four hundred and fifteen miles. Investigations are now
on foot with a view to canalization of the Snake River for both irrigation and
all-year navigation. Snake River is now navigable for about seven months
of the year from Pittsburg Landing to the ocean, nearly six hundred miles.
Thus the time is rapidly coming for a new era in water transportation. This,
era is as yet only dawning, but it is obvious that the opening of the Columbia
and Snake rivers to traffic by means of canals and locks and improvement of
channels will create a new development of production and commerce. As far
back as 1872 Senator Mitchell of Oregon brought before Congress the subject
of canal and locks at the Cascades of the Columbia. The matter was urged in
Congress and in the press, and as a result of ceaseless efforts the people of
the Northwest were rewarded in 1896 with the completion of the canal at the
Cascades. While that was indeed a great work, it did not after all affect the
greater part of the inland Empire. Its benefits were felt only as far as The
Dalles. The much greater obstruction between that city and the upper River
forbade continuous traffic above The Dalles. Hence the next great endeavor
346 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
was to secure a canal between navigable water at Big Eddy, four miles above
The Dalles, and Celilo, eight and a half miles above Big Eddy. It is of great
historic interest to call up in this connection the unceasing efforts of Dr. N. G.
Blalock of Walla Walla to promote public interest in this vast undertaking and
to so focalize that interest backed by insistent demands of the people upon Con-
gress as to secure appropriations and to direct the speedy accomplishment of the
engineering work necessary to the result. Like all such important public mat-
ters this has its alternating advances and retreats, its encouragements and its
reverses, but patience and perseverance and the strong force of genuine public
benefit triumphed at last over all obstacles. It is indeed melancholy to remem-
ber that Dr. Blalock, of whose good deeds and public benefactions this was
but one, passed on before the improvements were completed, but it is a satis-
faction to remember, too, that before his death in April, 1913, he knew that the
appropriations and instructions necessary to insure the work had been made.
In fact the work continued from that time with no pause or loss.
The Celilo Canal was completed and thrown open to navigation in April.
1915. In the early part of May the entire River region joined in a week's
demonstration which began at Lewiston, Idaho, and ended at Astoria, Oregon.
Nearly all the senators, representatives and governors in the Northwest attended.
Schools and colleges had a holiday, business was largely suspended, and the
entire River region joined in a great jubilee. A fleet of steamers traversed the
entire course from Lewiston down, five hundred miles. Lewiston, Asotin and
Clarkston were hostesses on May 3d ; Pasco, Kennewick, Wallula and LTmatilla on
May 4th; Celilo, where the formal ceremonies of dedication occurred, and The
Dalles, May 5th ; Vancouver and Portland, May 6th ; Kalama and Kelso, May
7th ; and Astoria, May 8th, and there the pageant ended with a great excursion
to the Ocean Beach.
The city of Kennewick was particularly interested in the celebration of
May 4th. This was the only point in the area covered by this history which
entertained the great concourse of celebrants. There were, however, many
visitors from Richland, Hanford, White Blulifs and other points up-River as
well as a number from Prosser and Yakima and other points in the Valley.
One of the most interesting features of the Kennewick celebration was the
marriage of the Upper and Lower rivers, in which ceremony "Admiral" W. P.
Gray of Pasco gave away the bride, one of Kennewick's blushing beauties, and
Senator Wesley L. Jones of Yakima pronounced the sacred words which joined
bride and groom into the indissoluble bond of union.
As we shall see still further, the agencies of transportation have had most
vital relations with the progress of industry in all its forms in the Yakima
Valley.
CHAPTER IV
IRRIGATION IN THE VALLEY
IRRIGATION LAWS — AN ACT REGULATING IRRIGATION AND WATER RIGHTS — RECLAMA-
TION ACT PRIVATE IRRIGATION SYSTEMS — LATER AND LARGER PRIVATE CANALS
IRRIGATION IN THE KITTITAS — TME SUNNYSIDE CANAL — COWICHE AND WIDE
HOLLOW IRRIGATION DISTRICT — THE CONGDON DITCH, OR YAKIM'A VALLEY
CANAL THE WAPATOX CANAL NACHES-SELAH CANAL — KONNEWOCK CANAL
LATER HISTORY OF IRRIGATION IN THE LO\V*ER VALLEY — RICHLAND, HANFORD
AND WHITE BLUFFS SECTIONS SUMMARY OF PRIVATE ENTERPRISES GOVERN-
MENT PROJECTS — STATE PROJECTS — DESIGNATION OF UNITS SUNNYSIDE
PROJECT AND EXTENSIONS THE STORAGE SYSTEMS— COMPLETION OF THE
TIETON PROJECT — COST OF TIETON SYSTEM THE LAKE RESERVOIRS — BUMPING
LAKE RESERVOIR — KACHESS LAKE RESERVOIR LAKE KEECHELUS RESERVOIR
LAKE CLE ELUM RESERVOIR — ACREAGE UNDER GOVERNMENT PROJECT — SOME
OF THE POETRY OF IRRIGATION ANNOUNCEMENTS, ETC.
The Yakima and Kittitas and Benton counties of today are the product
of irrigation. The rainfall varies from about seven inches on the eastern front-
age to from ten to twelve at Ellensburg. This is insufficient to mature any
ordinary kind of crops. But generous nature has compensated for these arid
conditions by lavishing her treasures of snow and rain upon the Cascade
heights. From the rugged margin of the valleys westward to the craggy sum-
mits the moisture descends in bounteous measure. Thi annual snowfall at
Easton and at the lakes, Keechelus, Kachess, Cle Elum, and lesser ones which
feed the Yakima and its tributaries, ranges from six or eight to fifty feet.
Even at the town of Cle Elum there has been over fifteen feet of snow in a
season. As the old Egyptians regarded the Nile as the gift of the gods, and
the fertile strip of valley land through the desert as the gift of the Nile and
in fact made a deity of old Nilus himself, so the Yakimans might call their
orchards and gardens the gift of the Cascade Mountains. From these "treas-
ures of the snow reserved against the times of trouble" the life-giving streams
have come to bear sustenance to those acres and acres of luscious fruit.
Most of farming has much drudgery, and that drudgery, with the isolation
which formerly characterized ordinary farming, was responsible for the crav-
ing of farming folks to go to the city. But with the intensive farming of an
irrigated section come all the art and poetry of the soil. Ceres and Pomona
dance with the rosy-footed hours across the circlets of verdure, and the velvet
cheeks of peach and fragrance of apple and golden sphere of cantaloupe and
swinging clusters of the vine all join with music and choruses of heaven and
earth to bring to eye and tongue all the tributes of heart and life held by nature
347
348 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
in her storehouses of beauty and strength. Possibly some ranchers just start-
ing on a patch of sagebrush, especially when a March gale happens to be blow-
ing, may think that the author has drawn a roseate picture of the delights of
farm life in Yakima, but let them wait a few years, and the poetry will come.
In fact, in the judgment of the author, after the first necessarily material-
istic and practical era in the Yakima Valley shall have softened down into the
refinement of more finished life, it may be expected that a race of poets and
artists, those rare spirits who have the gift of second sight, will arise here and
bring their tributes of song and brush and music to lay at the feet of those
beneficent deities from whose hands have flowed those treasures of the sky
making possible the harvests of this arid land. The engineer had to come first,
but the poet will follow hard after.
A history of irrigation in the Yakima Valley comes near being a history of
everything. For every enterprise here, after the first era of range stock, has
been the outgrowth of irrigation. And even the stock business in its present
features of high-grade stock and dairy products, is the direct outgrowth of
irrigation.
For the sake of unity of treatment we shall consider the subject as a
whole, covering the entire area of the valley without regard to county lines.
We 'shall be obliged to repeat a little of what has appeared in preceding chap-
ters in order that all the links may be duly connected.
IRRIGATION LAWS.
It is of great interest in any view of irrigation history to note that the arid
regions of the West presented a new problem in cultivation and demanded new
laws. England, from which our common law came, and the eastern half of the
United States, for which all our early legislation was framed, and even that
earliest part of California and Oregon between the Sierra Nevada and Cascade
ranges and the sea shore, have abundant rainfall. No question of the use of
water for irrigation had ever arisen in the experience of the Anglo-Saxon
builders of this country until they undertook the development of that vast
region between the Cascades and Sierras on the west and western Kansas on
the east, with southern California on the south.
Then came new problems, problems to the solution of which American
engineering skill was entirely adequate, but to which existing laws were entirely
unadapted.
Laws necessarily lag far in the rear of industries, and judicial decisions
necessarily are still further in the dim vistas of precedent. Hence the active,,
eager foundation builders of the arid parts of the west found themselves sadly
crippled by the fact that courts felt themselves bound by the English common
law of riparian rights, until statutes were made adaptable to conditions in an
arid country. The English common law provides that an owner of land may-
divert the stream to use on his own land but that he must return it upon his
own land. Practically the only use of water was to turn mill wheels.
The riparian owners along the rivers of California, King's River, Sani
Joaquin, and Sacramento, — the only ones affected by irrigation on a large
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 349
scale — perceived a magnificent opportunity to "hold up" the irrigationists by
levying tribute on them through the application of the English common law.
The Supreme Court of Colorado, with a surprising vision and independence
for a judicial body, used the law of common sense and decided that the condi-
tions in Colorado were such as to render the English common law inapplicable,
and hence they rendered the decision that the inherent right to divert water to
distant points for irrigation would be recognized even in advance of a law. But
the California courts held the common law binding until supplanted by statute.
Hence there was in progress for several years a struggle between the
riparianists and the irrigationists, with some dam-breaking and shot gun argu-
ments, verging upon a miniature war, finally terminated by the Wright law of
1889, providing for irrigation districts and condemnation of riparian holdings.
By this the vast irrigation systems of Fresno and Tulare counties, with others
to a lesser degree, came into assured existence, and the prodigious development
of central and southern California as fruit, garden, raisin, and alfalfa sections,
began.
The development of the Yakima Valley has had a similar history, though
later in time. The Yakima River belongs in point of area with the first five rivers
of the country in the amount of territory supplied with water. The rivers sur-
passiog it are the Snake, Colorado, San Joaquin (including King's River) and
equalling it the Salt.
There is probably a larger percentage of land in the tributar}' basin of
the Yakima under existing or projected canals than on any one of the others,
but of course the water sheds of the Snake, Colorado, and San Joaquin, are
vastly larger, and the gross amount of land served by those rivers is much
larger. We are informed by Mr. R. K. Tiffany that the acreage now supplied
with water in the Yakima Valley is something more than 275,000 and that with
the completion of existing projects, over 600,000 acres will receive water. The
three larger rivers named have over a million acres each, while Salt River is in
about the same class with the Yakima.
The history of irrigation in the Yakima Valley is practically divisible into
two sections. The first is that of private enterprise, the second is that under
Government. The latter is plainly to absorb the former. Whatever we may
think of the philosophy of Government ownership as compared with private it
is clear that the logic of events, especially since our nation has entered the
World War, is for Government control, if not ownership, of the essentials of
production. Moreover, it is clear that Federal rather than State management
of the essentials of production and distribution is "writ down" in the book of
destiny. If we can adjust ourselves to this change of front of the universe and
still preserve that individualism and personal initiative which have made America
what she is, and if we can still retain that Democratic idealism for which we
are now fighting (to "Make the World Safe for Democracy"), — we shall solve
the problem of the ages; the union of personal freedom and governmental
efficiency. If that problem can be solved, the United States, the spirit of Amer-
icanism, must do it. If we do not accomplish this as the chief result of this
war, the world must confess that the problem is insolub'e, that the universe is
a failure, and that there is no rational God.
350 HISTORY OF YAKHrA VALLEY
A law of the legislature of Washington is incorporated here, as showing
beginnings of law making on irrigation.
AN ACT
REGULATING IRRIGATION AND WATER RIGHTS IN THE COUNTIES OF YAKIMA AND
KITTITAS, WASHINGTON TERRITORY.
Be it enacted by the Legislative Assembly of the Territory of Washington;
Sec. 1. That any person or persons, corporation or company who may
have or hold a title or possessory right of title to any agricultural lands within
the limits of Yakima or Kittitas counties, Washington Territory, shall be
entitled to the use and enjoyment of the waters of the streams or creeks in
said counties for the purposes of irrigation and making said land available for
agricultural purposes.
Sec. 2. That when any person or persons, corporation or company owning
or holding lands as provided in section one (1) of this act, shall have no avail-
able water facilities upon the same, or when it may be necessary to raise the
water of said streams or creeks, to so use the waters thereof as aforesaid, such
person or persons, corporation or company shall have the right of way through
and over any tract or piece of land for the purposes of conducting and convey-
ing said water by means of ditches, dykes, flumes or canals for the purposes
aforesaid.
Sec. 3. Any person or persons proposing to construct a ditch, dyke or
flumes under the provisions of this act, shall have the right to enter upon private
lands for the purpose of examining and surveying the same; and when such
lands cannot be obtained by the consent of the owner or owners thereof, so
much of the same as may be necessary for the construction of said ditch, dyke
or flume may be appropriated by said person or persons. In case of conflict
a board of award shall be formed of three of which each party shall select one,
and the two so selected shall select a third. In case the owner or owners shall
from any cause fail, for the period of five days, to select an appraiser, as herein-
before provided, then it shall be the duty of the appraiser, selected by the person
or persons proposing to construct said ditch, dyke or flume, to select a second
appraiser, and the two so selected, shall select a third, and in either case the
three selected shall within five days after their selection, meet and appraise the
lands sought to be appropriated, after having been first duly sworn by some
officer entitled to administer oaths, to make a true appraisement thereof, accord-
ing to the best of their ability. If such person or persons shall tender to such
owner or owners the appraised value of such land, and file with the clerk of the
district court, with sureties to be approved by said clerk, a bond in double the
appraised value, conditioned that if an appeal be taken, and a larger damage
be allowed than the amount appraised, they will pay the judgment of the court
and the costs of the appeal, they shall be entitled to proceed in the construction of
the ditch, dyke or flume over the lands so appraised, notwithstanding such tender
may be refused : Provided, That such tender shall always be kept good by such
person or persons: And provided further, That an appeal may be taken by
either party from the findings of the appraisers to the district court of the dis-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 351
trict within which the land so appraised shall be situated at any time within ten
days after such appraisement.
Sec. 4. That in all controversies respecting the riglit to water under the
provisions of this act, the same shall be determined by the date of appropriation
as respectively made by the parties.
Sec. 5. That the waters of the streams or creeks of the country may be
made available to the full extent of the capacity thereof for irrigating purposes
so that the same do not materially affect or impair the rights of the prior appro-
priator, but in no case shall the same be diverted or turned from the natural
channel, ditches or canals of such appropriators so as to render the same unavail-
able to him or them.
Sec. 6. That any person or persons, corporation or company damaging
the lands or possessions of another by reason of cutting or digging ditches or
canals, or erecting dykes or flumes as provided by section two (2) of this act,
the party so committing such injury or damage shall be liable to the party so
injured therefor.
Sec. 7. That this act shall not be so construed as to impair or in any way
or manner interfere with the rights of parties to the use of the waters of such
streams or creeks acquired before its passage.
Sec. 8. That this act shall not be so construed as to prevent or exclude
the appropriators of the waters of said streams or creeks, for mining, manu-
facturing or other beneficial purposes, and the right also to appropriate the same
is hereby equally recognized and declared.
Sec. 9. That any person or persons, corporation or company who may dig
and construct or who have heretofore dug and constructed ditches, dykes,
flumes or canals shall be required to keep the same in good repair at such cross-
ing or other places where the water from any such ditches, dykes, flumes or
canals may flow over or in anywise injure any roads or highways either by
bridging or otherwise.
Sec. 10. Any person or persons offending again.st section nine of this
act, on conviction thereof, shall forfeit and pay for every such offense, a penalty
of not more than one hundred dollars, to be recovered with costs of suit in
civil action in the name of the Territory of Washington, before any justice of
the peace having jurisdiction ; one-half of the fine so collected shall be paid
into the county treasury for the benefit of common schools in said counties,
and the other half shall be paid to the person or persons informing the nearest
justice of the peace that such offense has been committed. All such fines and
costs shall be collected without stay of execution and such defendants or
defendant may, by order of the court, be confined in the county jail, until such
fine and costs have been paid.
Sec. 11. That all controversies respecting the right to water in the counties
of Yakima and Kittitas, whether for mining or manufacturing, agricultural or
other useful purposes, the rights of the parties shall be determined by the dates
of appropriation respectively.
Sec. 12. That all acts and parts of acts in conflict herewith are hereby
repealed.
352 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Sec. 13. This act shall take effect and be in force from and after its passage
and approval by the governor.
Approved February 4, 1886.
RECLAMATION ACT
One of the great dates of our national history is June 17, 1902. On that
day the Reclamation Act of the Federal Government was passed. This great
act was conceived by Powell and Wolcott of the Geological Survey, the details
were worked out by F. H. Newell, Senator Francis G. Newlands fathered it in
Congress, and President Roosevelt gave it his constant support. This was the
beginning of the assumption by Federal authority of the line of enterprises
which has come to be more and more recognized the land over as a proper
Federal function. The date of 1902 may therefore be suitably taken as the
dividing time between the private and national eras in irrigation history. It
should be stated, however, that nothing more than investigation was undertaken
in Yakima by the Government till 1906.
PRIVATE IRRIGATION SYSTEMS
We shall first give a view of the development of the various private enter-
prises prior to that turning point. It will be noted, as our story proceeds, that
several years passed before Government work was actually taken up in the
Yakima Valley, but from a large general view the date of 1902 is the normal
date.
There seem to be slight differences of statement as to when the first actual
irrigating canals in Yakima came into existence. There is general agreement,
however, that the first ditch was that of Kamiakin, "Last Hero of Yakimas,"
in about 1853 at his place near Tampico, on land now belonging to Wallace
Wiley. But as to the first civilized irrigator there seems not perfect unanimity.
According to Leonard Thorp, whose authority is of the best, the first irri-
gation was performed in 1866 by Thomas and Benton Goodwin, at a point
about a mile south of the present city of Yakima. This ditch carried water
from the Yakima River to a small wheat field, from which a fine crop was
gathered, about forty bushels to the acre on five acres. According to the elab-
orate Government history in the Reclamation office, for the use of which we
are indebted to Mr. R. K. Tiffany, the first ditch was the Nelson Ditch of 1867.
We derived information also from Mr. Thorp in regard to a sort of coopera-
tive system, in which Captain Simmons and iMessrs. Vaughn, Goodwin, Stall-
cop and Maybury, were concerned.
According to the Government record the Nelson Ditch took its water
supply from the left bank of the Naches River in Section 5, Township 13 North,
of Range 18 East. This ditch, still in existence, was very small, carn-ing only
seven second feet.
While these pioneer ditches were under process of formation various small
individual undertakings were in progress. This was especially true along the
Ahtanum. In 1872 Charles Carpenter raised the first hops at his place on the
Ahtanum.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 353
In 1872 Charles and Joseph Schanno and Sebastian Lauber made the first
attempt at a more considerable system. They constructed a canal from a point
on the Ahtanum near the Carpenter place to their half section of land which
became later the site of Yakima City. We derive some valuable data from
Mrs. Marie Catron of Walla Walla, daughter of Charles Schanno. She recalls
the fine gardens and berry patches produced on her father's place by the water
of the canal. Though a small child she remembers the ridicule bestowed upon
her father by people who thought his idea of irrigation absurd. Nevertheless
the Schanno brothers went right on in 1874 to establish a much greater enter-
prise. They laid out a ditch from a point on the Naches about eight miles dis-
tant from their place. Mrs. Catron tells us that her father followed to consid-
erable extent a natural hollow running through what was not far from the
present railroad tracks, and thus reduced the expense of ditching to a relatively
small amount. But the Schanno Canal was, after all, a large one for that early
time, being eighteen feet wide and eighteen inches deep. At first the water
was mainly used for raising gardens and a little wheat. Not till 1881 was the
great foundation crop of Yakima, alfalfa, raised by means of the Schanno Ditch.
Some claim has been made that a canal was constructed by Judge J. W.
Beck in 1872, prior to the Schanno Canal. The Beck Ditch carried water from
the Yakima about half a mile above the Moxee bridge to Judge Beck's place
above Yakima City. Another of the early canals was constructed by William
Lince. This conveyed water from the Ahtanum to the lower slope of the hill
below the subsequent Congdon Ditch.
An important ditch grew out of the Simmons-Vaughn enterprise of 1867,
or as some have it, 1868. The head-gate for that canal was on the Naches
about a mile above its mouth. It was at first a small affair, and yet with the
progress of several years it grew into the Union Canal, well known to all resi-
dents of Yakima.
LATER AND LARGER PRIVATE CANALS
A number of larger enterprises were launched during the decades of the
eighties and nineties. The Naches rather than the main stream of the Yakima
was the source of water supply for the earlier canals. The first important
canal, following those pioneer enterprises already described, was that of the
Selah Valley Ditch Company, of which B. F. Young of Tacoma became super-
intendent. This canal was based upon a filing of water appropriation at a point
on the Naches thirty miles above its mouth. During 1887 the canal was in
process of construction from the head along the north hill sides of the Naches
Valley to a point where elevations permitted its divergence to the rich lands
of Selah.
For that time the Selah Valley Canal was a big affair, twelve feet wide on
the bottom, twenty-four on top, and of depth to carry water three and a half
feet deep.
During the period of construction of the Selah Valley Ditch, the Moxee
Company was constructing a large ditch on the east side of the river. This was
under the presidency and management of William Ker. G. G. Hubbard, a capi-
(23)
354 HISTORY OF YAKLMA VALLEY
talist of Washington City, was, with Mr. Ker, the chief stockholder in that
enterprise. The ditch was eighteen feet wide on the bottom and carried water
three feet deep.
In the latter part of the seventies and early eighties the conception of the
coming destiny of the Yakima Valley as a vast irrigated country had taken
possession of many minds. As .we have seen, a number of small canals and
some large ones had begun operation in the central valley around Yakima City.
Almost contemporary with those enterprises pioneer work began in the lower
Valley in the vicinity of the present Prosser and Kiona. In 1878 J. M. Baxter
and Mr. Lockwood undertook canal construction on the south side of the
Yakima River. Dr. Charles Cantonwine had a stock ranch nearly opposite
Baxter's, and he also entered upon ditch construction on the north side of the
river. A similar pioneer enterprise was initiated on the Grosscup ranch near
the present flag-station of that name on the O.-W. R. R. line. That property
was in possession of B. S. Grosscup, later a distinguished lawyer and judge^
known throughout the state.
An ambitious enterprise in the hands of the Yakima Improvement and
Irrigation Company was launched in the Kiona district. The first aim was to
make a canal on the north side of the river for irrigating four thousand acres
of land acquired by the company, and to furnish water to an area of forty
thousand acres available to homesteaders farther down the river. The plan
contemplated a canal of sufficient size to carry boats into the Yakima River,
and by means of dams in the river and terminals at Kiona to receive and dis-
charge freight at the North Pacific station at that place. This was a great
project, but failed of full realization. It had connections, however, which
have led to such developments as to make it one of the historically important
projects of the valley. It was begun in 1889. The head-gates were on the
north side of the Yakima River four miles above Kiona. The plans contem-
plated a canal of sufficient size to carry 600 second feet of water. I. W. Dudley
was one of the chief promoters of this enterprise. H. S. Huson was president
of the company. Carl Ely and F. A. Dudley were the others chiefly concerned.
The enterprise halted as the "hard times" came on. The area across the river
from Kiona became an irrigation district, and Frank A. Dudley acquired the
stock of the Y. I. and I. Company.
Meanwhile the greatest "paper" enterprise in all the lower valley had been
started. This was the Ledbetter scheme. It was launched in 1890 and carried
for several years, but finally went to pieces. The nam?, however, has been
passed on to an immense unit of the Government system.
The Ledbetter aim was to irrigate the vast area between Rattlesnake Moun-
tain and the Columbia River, on both sides of the Yakima, and including the
Kennewick district. In 1893 the Yakima Improvement and Irrigating Company
acquired the part of the Ledbetter interests in the Kennewick region and pushed
construction in that direction. F. A. Dudley had conveyed his interests to J. J.
Rudkin and O. A. Fechter. The first furrow on the Kennewick Ditch was
turned on January 17, 1892. The head works were on the south side of Horn
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 355
Rapids. This was the beginning of the important work which transformed the
Kennewick desert into one of the most attractive spots in the valley. In 1893
the canal was completed to Kennewick, thirty-four miles from the Horn Rapids.
In the next year the water reached Hover. These would have been palmy days
in the history of Kennewick, had not the evil times of 1890-95 beclouded all
the bright prospects.
Meanwhile there was another peculiar chapter in the complicated history
of the Kennewick project. This concerned the Delhaven Irrigation District.
This was composed of the residents of the region. They acquired the property
of the Y. I. and I. Company and operated the canal from 1893 to 1896. The
times were unpropitious and the Delhaven district failed to maintain itself.
During those gloomy years most financial transactions at Kennewick were per-
formed by warrants of the district. These began to depreciate and the district
at last went into liquidation and its stock passed to the Northwestern Improve-
ment Company, a holding company of the N. P. R. R. Company. Everything
now languished for a time. Not till 1902 was there active work in the Kenne-
wick district. In that year the N. P. R. R. acquired the canal interests and
resumed construction.
We may say that with that event the new era began. We may, therefore,
properly arrest the progress of our story at this point, and take up the pioneer
stages of another part of the valley. But before leaving the early history of the
lower valley we must note the fact that in 1892 canal construction was begun
by Nelson Rich and Howard Amon, who later formed the Benton Land and
Water Company, looking to supplying water for the Richland country. This
was one of the regions especially to be covered by the Ledbetter project. Many
filings on desert claims were made at that time, especially by Walla Walla
people, in anticipation of canals which never came. The plans of Messrs. Rich
and Amon, however, were subsequently realized by the Horn Rapids Irrigation
Company. The Y. I. & I. Company completed a canal in the direction of Rich-
land as far as the Grosscup ranch in 1893.
Another of the interesting and important undertakings of the lower valley
was that of the Prosser Falls Irrigation Company. This provided a pumping
system for about two thousand acres on the south side of the river, utilizing
the twenty-foot fall at that point for power. It was found that the discharge
of the river in the lowest stage in October was over 2,500 second feet. An
elaborate system of turbines was installed by which water was raised for both
irrigating and manufacturing purposes. Quite elaborate exercises in celebra-
tion of this great event were held on April 16, 1894. Various distinguished
men. Col. W. F. Prosser, the father of the town. Congressman Wesley L. Jones,
D. E. Lesh, E. F. Benson, W. D. Tyler, Dr. N. F. Essig, and others partici-
pated in this celebration. J. G. Van Marter was president, Fred Reed was
manager, and Frank Bartlett was engineer of the company which created this
power system, the basis of the growth of the fine little city, now the county seat
of Benton County. Later E. F. Benson became manager and conducted the system
till 1911. It was then incorporated in the Government system of the Sunnyside
356 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Canal. A pressure pipe ten miles long was constructed and conveyed across the
river. This is now owned by the city of Prosser. The Pacific Power and Light
Company acquired the pumping plant.
IRRIGATION IN THE KITTITAS
Turning back a few years in time and a number of miles up the Yakima
River, we find ourselves at the initiation of irrigation in the Kittitas.
The first attempts to utilize water for irrigation in the Kittitas Valley
seems to have been, as in Yakima, on a small scale for little patches of land
close to the supply. A ditch was constructed by the farmers in the Manastash
section in 1871. A year later a similar enterprise was put through on the
Taneum Creek by an association of farmers, of which J. E. Bates was presi-
dent. These pioneers must be accorded a high place in a historical record, for
they played a great part in initiating the series of reclamation projects which
has redeemed that splendid region from the desert. In the chapter on Kittitas
County we shall refer to these canals again.
In 1885 what became known as the Town Canal was built by the city of
Ellensburg, having a flow of 130 second feet of water and capable of reclaiming
12,000 acres of land on the north side of the Yakima River.
In 1889 the West Kittitas Canal came into existence. This provided a flow
of 100 second feet and was employed for irrigating 10,000 acres on the south
side of the river.
In 1903 and 1904 the important Cascade Canal came into use. This was
constructed to cover 25,000 acres of land and was guaranteed a flow of 150
second feet.
Several small ditches, aggregating 7,000 acres, were constructed during
the same period with those named above. It is of interest to note the elevations
of the head gates of these chief canals. The Town Canal left the river at an
elevation of 1,614 feet, the West Kittitas at 1,680, and the Cascade at 1,715.
A large enterprise was on the docket as early as 1892. This was formu-
lated by the Kittitas Valley Irrigation Company. It contemplated taking water
at an elevation of 2,175 feet and conveying it to the splendid area in the north-
ern part of the valley. It would have irrigated 85,000 acres, the largest area in
Kittitas County, according to the Government report, that could be reached^ by
gravity from the Yakima River. The company went so far with their great
undertaking as to clear a right-of-way twenty-five miles long with a breadth
of a hundred feet. The financial crises of the years following made it im])os-
sible for the company to carry out its plans.
One interesting aspect of irrigation history in Yakima and especially in the
Kittitas district was the sentiment of self-dependence ynd community, spirit.
The cooperative idea, as well as the self-help idea, was strong. Nevertheless
some great disappointments resulted in these cooperative movements in the
Kittitas. One of the most hopeful of these undertakings was inaugurated in
1902. The fact had been recognized fully by that time that the Kittitas Val-
ley must be handled from the viewpoint of an arid counti y and that crops and
methods must be adapted to that fact. In the earlier days many of the farmers
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 357
tried to raise wheat and other crops to which they had been accustomed in the
Willamette or Walla Walla or Klickitat. But the transition took place in the
decade of the nineties. Wheat growing was abandoned. Only an eighth as
much wheat was raised in 1901 as in 1895. Hay was beginning to be the great
crop. Timothy hay from the Kittitas began to be in great demand at Seattle
and other regions west. It was discovered that apples and pears and all the
more temperate fruits and vegetables were peculiarly successful, where water
could be supplied. A general demand for some big irrigation system arose. In
1902 there came a new popular call for steps looking to a high line canal. A
mass meeting on January 9, 1902, resulted in the formation of the Inter Moun-
tain Irrigation Association. Austin Mires was chosen president and Frank
McCandless secretary of the association. A permanent committee was ap-
pointed, whose names may well be preserved as showing the personnel of those
at that time engaged in the promotion of such enterprises. That committee
consisted of J. E. Frost, W. D. Bouton, J. L. Mills, J. E. Burke, W. T. Morri-
son, Herman Schwingler, Jacob Bowers, Sherman Smith, S. T. Packwood and
Frank McCandless. On January 18th another meeting was held at which the
committee reported that it had secured a right to 50,000 inches at the junction
of the Cle Elum with the Yakima, and 25,000 at Easton. At a meeting on
March 4th some differences developed, some favoring a cooperative local sys-
tem, while others believed the entrance of outside capital the only feasible plan.
There was a general judgment that the so-called Burlingame Line surveyed
in 1892 by E. C. Burlingame, now of Walla Walla, was more practicable than
the proposed high line route. While the association was struggling with these
problems another enterprise was inaugurated which in some degree was a rival
of the association. This was the Cascade Canal Company already referred to
whose canal was constructed in 1903 and 1904.
This Cascade Canal enterprise was of so much moment in the Kittitas
Valley that some additional facts should be inserted at this point. It was
purely a local enterprise, had an initial capital of $150,000, and was officered
as follows : S. T. Packwood president, J. H. Smithson vice-president, Ralph
Kauffman secretary, J. C. Hubbell treasurer, J. E. Frost manager. The intake
was on the north side of the river, five miles above Thorp. Nearly six miles of
fluming was required, and two tunnels, one of 800 feet and the other of 388
feet. The conception of impounding water in the lakes was inaugurated by
damming Lake Kachess. Water was turned into the canal on May 13. 1904. It
was expected to cover two districts, one of 13,000 and the other of 30,000 acres.
The latter, however, was not carried out.
A little later still another scheme was presented by J. H. Wells. He was
manager of the Kittitas Valley Irrigation Company, already mentioned as un-
dertaking a plan in 1892 which failed to materialize, for irrigating 85,000 acres.
Mr. Wells now desired to enlist local interest such as would enable the bonding
and revival of this great enterprise. He proposed a huge canal, 110 miles long,
forty-eight feet wide at top, twenty-four feet wide at bottom, and ten feet deep,
to cost about $1,500,000. Mr. Wells was sure that eastern capital could be
secured if there was proper local backing. This great plan, however, went the
way of its predecessor.
358 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Nqw came still another scheme. A certain promoter, A. S. Black by name,
who had been engaged in irrigation in Colorado, became interested in reports
about the Yakima country and in April, 1903, he visited Ellensburg and at a
public meeting set forth plans for financing a high line canal. On their face
the representations of Mr. Black seemed reliable and inviting, and the flagging
enthusiasm of the people was rekindled. But alas, they were worse off than
ever. At a second meeting on May 29th, the Colorado promoter revealed the
fact that he was through with the plan and must call it all off.
The era of glowing visions ended. The existing canals, the Town, the West
Kittitas, the Cascade, and the group of small ones, covering in all about forty
thousand acres, were serving a most useful purpose, demonstrating the great
capacity of the Kittitas Valley under irrigation.
The time had now come when the Government was ready to enter the field
and the era of private enterprises in Kittitas came to an end.
Meanwhile several canal projects of much importance were being shaped
in the middle and lower valleys. These were in a way the connecting links
between the great Government projects beginning in 1905 with surveys and
entering into the construction era a few years later, and the pioneer enterprises
which we have traced, from 1866 to the close of the century.
In the closing years of the last century and the first few of the present,
several canal propositions of a location and character to lead logically to the
Government undertakings were established. The most important of these were
the Sunnyside under various heads, the Cowiche and Wide Hollow Irrigation
district, the Selah-Moxee, the Northern Pacific, and the Congdon. Lesser
ditches which served areas more distinctly local, were the Fowler, the Wapatox,
the Hubbard, and the Konnewock. Limits of space forbid going into detail
about all of these. In a general way it may be said that they were in process
of construction about contemporaneously, the work being somewhat broken
and interrupted with some of them, but the years from 1898 to 1904 being the
central time.
From these and their connections grew the conditions which resulted log-
ically in the assumption by Government of the primary interest in irrigation.
These first stages of development in the valley witnessed sundry near-
sanguinary scenes. Water rights were very rudely defined and if one neighbor
chose to appropriate the whole available supply the only convenient recourse
of the next neighbor was to go and tear out the first one's dam and ditch.
Usually, too, he would take along a "gun" of some sort in order to be ready
for eventualities. As stated in the Government report, it ^vas customary under
state law to make a filing before beginning any construction work, and an
amount of water altogether beyond the appropriator's needs was usually filed.
Moreover many filings were made purely for speculative purposes. As a result
the low water flow was many times over appropriated. It became obvious that
chaos in irrigation systems would result unless a general harmony and pre-
arrangement of plans was worked out.
Two essentials were announced by the Government engineers : First, a
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 359
comprehensive treatment of the water-right situation, involving a cooperative
effort among the various appropriators, with a view to defining and limiting
their actual needs.
Second. Investigations with a view to determining the most feasible loca-
tions for storing the flood waters of the various streams to supplement the low
water flow during the irrigation season.
The working out of those two principles became the foundation of the
Federal irrigation system in all its magnitude as it exists today.
THE SUNNYSIDE CANAL
The largest of all these enterprises in both the private and the Government
stages, was the Sunnyside. To a special degree this laid the foundations for the
immense Government project, not as yet nearly completed. For our authority
on this portion of the history we have had recourse mainly tp the exhaustive
report of Government engineers in the Reclamation office in Yakima.
One thing may well be remembered in connection with this section of the
history, and that is the fact that the Northern Pacific Railroad Company held
approximately half the land in the valley as a subsidy, and hence its interest in
the development of irrigation systems and other industries, as well as in town
sites, was inevitable.
To Walter N. Granger must be accorded the place of special honor in
inaugurating the Sunnyside system. In June, 1889, he made an investigation
of the area now embraced in the Sunnyside Unit, and the Yakima Canal and
Land Company was formed by him. Later his company united with the North-
ern Pacific Railroad Company in the Northern Pacific and Yakima Irrigation
Company. This company began construction work in 1890, C. R. Rockwood
being chief engineer and H. H. Hall consulting engineer.
Meanwhile the managers made investigations of the lakes at the head
of the Yakima and its tributaries with a view to a larger utilization of water.
As a result they formed a new company to succeed the former, known as the
Northern Pacific, Yakima, and Kittitas Irrigation Company. Work was initi-
ated on dams at the lakes, but the financial troubles and the inability of the
Northern Pacific Railroad to continue its aid compelled a cessation of work.
This situation resulted in the formation of still another company as a financing
agency, known as the Yakima Investment Company. This new company took
over the property of the preceding company. Paul Schulze, as a railroad rep-
resentative, became president of the new organization, and Walter N. Granger
continued as manager of construction.
This Yakima Investment Company met with disaster through the failure
and tragic death by suicide of Mr. Schulze. It was discovered that he had
hypothecated securities of the company to the value of $400,000. As a result
the company went into a receivership. Mr. Granger, however, retained the
supervision, operation, and management of the property during the receiver-
ship.
360 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
A very important stage came on with the acquisition in 1900 of the Sunny-
side enterprise by the Washington Irrigation Company.
It should be remembered that before the death of Mr. Schulze forty-two
miles of canal had been completed under the name of the Northern Pacific,
Yakima and Kittitas Company. That section extended from the head gate
seven miles below Yakima to a point forty-two miles down the Valley. In
honor of that event a celebration was held at the head works on March 26,
1892, in which all the country participated and about which the "Yakima
Herald" issued a special illustrated number. Speeches were made by Paul
Schulze, Edward Whilson, J. B. Reavis, and G. G. Hubbard. A young lady,
Dora Allen, broke a bottle of champagne over the head gate, and "all the people
huzzaed." Then later came the period of disasters resulting in the reorganiza-
tion. The forty-two-mile section, however, was a valuable asset of the new
company.
The Washington Irrigation Company was financed by Portland and
Seattle capital. Its officers were as follows: W. L. Ladd of Portland, presi-
dent : George Donald of Yakima, vice-president ; R. H. Denny of Seattle, treas-
urer; J. S. Bleecker of Seattle, secretary; E. F. Blaine of Seattle, attorney;
Walter N. Granger, superintendent; C. F. Bailey, cashier; R. K. Tiffany, chief
engineer; W. S. Douglass, water superintendent. The four last named were
located at Zillah, the local headquarters A large amount of work was done
by this company. Up to 1904 about $1,700,000 had been expended upon the
enterprise, including the outlays of the previous companies. The main canal
extended from the intake, seven and a half miles down the river from Yakima,
to a point opposite Prosser, about fifty miles. Nearly seven hundred miles gf
laterals were constructed. One of these wound around Snipes Mountain in
such a manner as to utilize considerable part of the splendid land composing the
lower slopes of that curious ridge. The main canal was the largest anywhere
in the northwest, until the great Minidoka and Twin Falls canals in southern
Idaho were constructed. It was sixty-two feet wide at the top and thirty at the
bottom, eight feet deep, and capable of carrying 800 second feet of water. As
laid out by the company the system commanded 64.000 acres of land, of which
about lialf was under cultivation in 1904.
At that time the company was projecting the extension to the Rattlesnake
slopes and the great flats facing the Columbia River. The water supply was
adequate for all fanns under ditch. Indeed it was stated by Professor Waller
of the State College that a great overplus was used around Sunnyside, amount-
ing to 70 to 80 inches, if reduced to rainfall ; so much, in fact, as to be detri-
mental to the land. For it caused the alkali to rise, and a few years later neces-
sitated a great drainage canal through the Sunnyside district. The annual main-
tenance charge was only a dollar an acre a year, a very low rate for the North-
west, though more than that usual in the Fresno district of California, and more
than the subsequent charge by the Government.
In general the work of the Washington Irrigation Company was highly
satis factor}'. But perhaps the most important event in its career was the fact
that it prepared the way for the Government enterprise.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 361
That is another story, and we leave the Sunnyside section at this point and
turn to others of the private enterprises which, like the Sunnyside, paved the
way to the Government projects.
THE SELAH-MOXEE CANAL
The Selah-Moxee Canal was one of the best smaller ones of that period.
This was mainly the work of George S. Rankin and W. T. Clark. The former
was president and the latter secretary of the company. Edward Whitson was
vice-president and J. D. Cornett was treasurer. This canal took water from
the east side of the Yakima near the mouth of Selah Creek and conveyed it
over a higher district than had been reached by the previous canals. There
was a total length of canal of twenty-seven miles, and an area under water of
7,000 acres. An interesting celebration in honor of the completion of this im-
portant enterprise took place on June 8, 1901.
One of the significant events of this period was an election held by the
Cowiche and Wide Hollow Irrigation District.
COWICHE AND WIDE HOLLOW IRRIGATION DISTRICT
This election was held on January 9, 1892. By a vote of fifty-two to
fifteen, the district was to be bonded for half a million dollars for the purpose
of constructing a canal from the Tieton River to a point from which water
could be distributed to all parts of the district, including the higher land. It
contemplated bringing 46,000 acres under irrigation. Although this district
canal was never constructed, the vote for bonds and the popular discussion and
agitation connected with it was a great factor in creating a demand for the
use of the Tieton, and that helped prepare the way for the great Tieton project
of the Government.
The next private canal enterprise of capital importance was that of Chester
A. Congdon in 1893. Mr. Congdon was a Chicago capitalist, who had made a
fortune in copper mining. He had become interested in Yakima soon after the
laying out of the new town in 1888.
He had acquired land in the present "Nob Hill" section, and a deed is on
record conveying land from himself and his wife to North Yakima, to be valid
in the event of the selection of that city for the state capital.
THE CONGDON DITCH. OR YAKIM;A VALLEY CANAL
The Congdon Ditch was the first to reach the highland section west of the
city. It was conveyed from the Naches at a point twelve miles above the mouth,
and carried along the hillside to the point of the bluff at the Painted Rocks.
Then it was conducted in a siphon across the Cowiche Valley to a point on the
opposite heights, from which it was distributed over the rolling lands south
toward Wide Hollow. More than any other one agency the Congdon Ditch
helped perform the task of transforming that sagebrush desert between the
Cowiche and Ahtanum into the splendid suburban section which makes Yakima
one of the wonders of the West. Other ditches, especially the Hubbard and
362 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
lower down, the Union and the Mill and the Power Company ditches, have
played and continue to play important parts in reclaiming that region, so barren
and seemingly hopeless in its first estate, so inviting and productive after the
rod of enterprise had smitten the rocks and bidden the streams gush forth in
the desert.
THE WAPATOX CANAL
The Wapatox Canal belongs to the same period. It was a local enterprise
in the Naches Valley, extending down the north side, designed to cover the
lower lands. It was constructed and managed by the local farmers, but it
became the property of the Pacific Power and Light Company. This is the
chief power plant in central Washington. The power house has an installed
capacity of 7,500 kilowatts on water and 2,000 kilowatts on steam. The canal
flows between 500 and 600 second feet and is lined with concrete throughout
its entire length of eight miles.
The next important enterprise in the near vicinity of Yakima during that
time was the
NACHES-SELAH CANAL
The canal is owned by the farmers of the Selah section. It was completed
in 1894, though a series of betterments in 1907 made another date of comple-
tion. It is of much interest to take a jump down to the present date in con-
nection with this canal and note some remarkable betterments in progress at
the time of this publication. It is just now undergoing a thorough rehabilita-
tion. Its circuitous course along the steep hill sides on the north side of the
Naches Valley, with the danger of breaking and with the waste of water
through seepage and with the many sections of wooden fluming, made it a
menace to the valley below and made its upkeep expensive. The association
of farmers took up in 1917 the question of improvemenr by tunnels. E. M.
Chandler, formerly superintendent of the Burbank project on Snake River,
was put in charge and at the date of this publication is bringing to a conclusion
the most elaborate system of tunnels anywhere in the Northwest. By means of
eight tunnels that section of the canal is reduced from six miles to two miles,
a safe and solid foundation is provided, and water is conserved and distributed
in a manner to make an infinite improvement over the former circuitous and
risky route. For financing this great enterprise the Selah farmers bonded the
district for $375,000. The district embraces 10,300 acres, and all but 300 of
this is in productive cultivation at the present time. Six hundred families
reside upon and own the land covered by this important and interesting canal.
It is probably safe to say that no other part of the Yakima Valley has been so
thoroughly developed as this Selah tract, and none is more typical of the Yakima
country at its best.
In passing from the middle valley to the lower, note sliould be made of the
KONNEWOCK CANAL
This covered about 3,000 acres beginning in the lower Parker Bottom. It
was important, not from size, but because it was owned by the farmers of that
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 363
section and because it was a sort of starting point for the Sunnyside system. It
was the first completed canal on the north side of the river below Union Gap.
The original owners acquired and used the right-of-way, and water rights
in this ditch, giving in return a free perpetual water right to the 3,000 acres
originally served by it. These lands, situated in Parker Bottom and Parker
Heights, have today the best water rights in the Northwest, and are among the
richest and most productive in the valley. Capt. Robert Dunn, D. A. McDonald,
and W. P. Sawyer are among those prominently identified with this develop-
ment.
LATER HISTORY OF IRRIGATION IN THE LOWER VALLEY
We traced in earlier pages of this chapter the series of stages in the Kiona-
Prosser-Kennewick section to the year 1902, when the N. P. R. R. acquired the
Kennewick system. Resuming the course of events we note that in 1903 the
ditch had been repaired and the water was again running. Good times came
again to that fine little place on the Columbia. Many improvements in building
in the town and the opening of new farms under the ditches followed.
The canal was enlarged to a width of twenty-eight feet on top and eighteen
on the bottom, and five feet deep. The company sold land very cheap, $25.00 an
acre with water right, but with the stipulation of residence and improvements.
In 1908 the Northern Pacific Irrigation Company came into possession of the
property. The officers of the company consisted of O. A. Fechter president,
J. J. Rudkin manager, C. S. Mead treasurer, and D. E. Gould of Boston, vice
president. In 1909 a very important step was taken, by which the splendid
Highlands district was placed under water by a pumping system raising water
from the main canal. At the same time the beautiful Olmstead addition on the
west of the city was put upon the market. These two tracts constitute an addi-
tion to Kennewick which within a short time can not fail to make it one of the
most beautiful cities of the state.
In 1917 another forward step was taken throughout the irrigated regions.
This was the formation of irrigation districts. This movement is the natural
sequence of the Government irrigation processes. During some years past the
Government has encouraged the creation of districts incorporated under state
laws and having the organization and powers of municipal corporations.
Experience seems to demonstrate that these districts have advantages over
the former water-users' associations. To a large degree they supplanted the
associations.
In pursuance of the policy of district formation the people under the
Kennewick gravity system have formed the Columbia Irrigation District. The
new organization has taken over the Northern Pacific Irrigation Company's
holdings in the area of about 12,000 acres covered by the gravity canals. The
offi,cers chosen by the voters of the district are at the present time: H. S.
Hughes, director and president ; A. S. Goss and L. E. Johnson, directors ; M.
M. Moulton, secretary.
In like manner the water users of the Highlands, under the pumping sys-
tem, have organized a district and have acquired the property of that section.
Their officers are J. J. Rudkin, director and president, and G. N. Hughes and
M. N. Hudnal, directors.
364 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
This district buys its water from the Columbia Irrigation district, and the
water is furnished, as before, by the pumping system. It may be added that
the extension of the Sunnyside Canal by government, commonly referred to
as the "'high line" will convey water to about 40,000 acres of the choicest land
in the Kennewick region. The Kennewick Irrigation District was organized
primarily to facilitate cooperation of the local producers with the Federal Gov-
ernment.
It is expected that the Sunnyside extension will ultimately cover 130,000
acres in what are known as the Benton and Ledbetter units. The development
of this vast area is a leading object of the Government in the Yakima Valley.
RICHLAND, HANFORD, AND WHITE BLUFFS SFXTIONS
From the Kennewick section we turn northward, cross the Yakima River,
and discover three irrigation systems, each with a history of its own. These
are the Richland, the Han ford, and the White Bluiifs sections.
The fine area of level and fertile land centering at Richland was brought
under an initial system of irrigation by Nelson Rich, one of the foremost build-
ers of the loVver Yakima, in 1892. In 1905 Mr. Rich's enterprise was succeeded
by the Benton Water Company, in which Mr. Rich and Howard Amon were
the chief factors. This in turn gave way in 1907 to the Lower Yakima Irrigat-
ing Company, of which the chief owners and managers were M. E. Downs and
W. R. Allen. In spite of great industry and seemingly prudent management
this company became involved in financial pressure and went into a receivership.
]\Ir. Allen's sudden death in 1912 caused 3 new organization known as the Horn
Rapids Irrigation Company in that same year. F. J. O'Brien became superin-
tendent in 1912, a post which he still holds. The Horn Rapids system has
sixty-five miles of main and chief distributing canals and supplies an abundance
of water to about 1,400 acres. The Richland people, like those of Kennewick
have joined the district movement. On December 2, 1918, the Richland dis-
trict was formed by vote of the landowmers.
The Hanford system was inaugurated in 1906 by Maj. H. M. Chittenden
and Judge C. H. Hanford. Seattle capital became interested through these men.
Manley B. Haynes became superintendent. The source of water supply was
the Columbia River, and the water was to be pumped by electric power supplied
from a water power at the head of Priest Rapids. This is one of the greatest
water powers in the country. There is a total fall of 71 feet in about ten miles.
H. K. Owens of Seattle was the engineer in charge of the installation of the
power plant. The author has been informed by Mr. Owens that 240,000 horse-
power could be generated at low water. The amount at high water is almost
limitless. Both Hanford and W^hite Bluffs are supplied with water by the
Priest Rapids power, though what is known as White Bluffs Orchard Tracts
has a water supply pumped from the river by gas pumps, the first of the kind in
this country. In 1908 Mr. F. J. O'Brien, now of Richland, became superintend-
ent at Hanford. The Hanford project covers about 11,000 acres, and the White
Bluffs section is of about the same extent.
HORN RAPID IRRIGATION COMPANY CANAL
HISTORY OF YAKIMA \-ALLEY 365
While this Columbia River irrigated section seems to have had a good deal
of difficulty and while returns have not equalled the sanguine expectations with
which the promoters inaugurated their plans, it is evident that a great future
awaits that splendid region. In length of growing season it surpasses all other
parts of the state, four crops and sometimes five crops of alfalfa being produced
in a season. The great power at Priest Rapids will, when taken up by Govern-
ment with adequate working force, become one of the greatest sources of power
for irrigating, lighting, and furnishing power in the Union. With a proper
system of dams and locks and canals, it will also open the river to navigation
for many miles. The Government has also considered a nitrogen plant at this
point.
SUM.M.JiRV OF PRIV.\TE ENTERPRISES
Before entering upon the history of the Government projects we shall do
well to recapitulate here the essential facts in regard to the various private en-
terprises which we have been describing. They may be described as grouped
around these points ; EUensburg, Yakima. Sunnyside including the Zillah and
Prosser sections, and Kennewick and northward on the Columbia.
The EUensburg section was covered by the Town Canal, the West Kittitas
Canal, and the Cascade Canal. These, with several small local canals, supply
water at the present time for about 40,000 acres. The canals in the Yakima,
Naches, Cowiche, Selah-Moxee, and Ahtanum sections radiating around the
city of Yakima may be summarized at the beginning of the period when the
Government was getting ready to enter the field, 1902-5, as follows : On the
east side of the river, the Selah-Moxee, the Moxee, the Hubbard, the Granger
and the Fowler, covering in all about 10,000 acres ; on the west side, the Selah-
Valley, the Wapatox, the Naches, the Gleed and the Naches-Selah, taking water
from the Naches at the higher points, and covering about 20,000 acres : the
Yakima Valley Canal (Congdon) heading about twelve miles up the Naches,
crossing the Cowiche with a siphon and reaching about 4.000 acres ; and the
group originating near the mouth of the Naches, the Hubbard, the Power Com-
pany, the •-Schanno, the Broadguage, the Union, and the Town, coming down the
Naches in the order named, covering with the Ahtanum in all about 30.000 acres ;
the Sunnyside, Zillah, and Prosser section covering together about 70,000 acres ;
the Columbia River section about 20,000 acres.
This gives a total in 1902-5 of about 194,000 acres. Probably 50,000 was
in productive cultivation. The reader will understand that this is a rough esti-
mate only. A considerable addition was made in some sections during the
period from 1905 to 1916. This was especially the case with the Columbia
River section, where the addition of Kennewick Highlands and further enlarge-
roents in the White Bluffs and Hanford sections brought probably 20,000 acres
more into the irrigated areas.
GOVERNMENT PROJECTS
In entering upon the very important section of irrigation history covered
by the Government enterprises, we may note that it is divisible into two natural
366 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
divisions; first, the areas reclaimed and the distribution system of canals; sec-
ond, the dam and reserv^oir systems and the trunk canals.
The first part may again be subdivided into the chief sections contemplated
in the Reclamation service. The whole development is known as the Yakima
project and may be roughly subdivided into six large units: the Kittitas, the
Tieton, the Wapato, the Sunnyside, the High Line, and the Benton. The res-
ervoir system includes storage dams at Lakes Kachess, Keechelus and Cle Elum,
at the head of the Yakima River, at Bumping Lake, and at McAllister Meadows
on the Tieton River.
Each of these subdivisions contains matter worthy of extended treatment.
The limits of our space, however, forbid more than a limited treatment of the
general plans and problems, with some consideration of the probable outlook
for future development.
A valuable part of the Government report, from the standpoint of general
history, deals with the antecedent conditions leading to the initiation of Gov-
ernment work. From the Reclamation service report we derive the stages in
this course of events.
In the lack of space for details we may briefly outline these stages.
Immediately after the passage of the Reclamation act, June 17, 1902, peti-
tions began to pour in for investigation of different possible projects. Mr. T.
K. Noble of Seattle was engaged by F. H. Newell, director of the United States
Geological Survey, to make a reconnoissance of the Yakima and Okanogan val-
leys with a view to reclamation. An office was established in Spokane in
August, 1903, from which the investigations were carried on, and Mr. Noble
was placed in charge as division engineer.
In June, 1905, the office was moved to Yakima, since it had become clear
that the main part of the irrigating would be done in that section. A Pacific
division was established in Portland in September, 1905. The division included
Washington, Oregon, California and Nevada.
D. C. Henny became consulting engineer and E. G. Hopson became super-
vising engineer of that division. In February, 1909, the Washington' division
was created, embracing the state of Washington and northern Idaho, and C. H.
Swigart was made supervising engineer. During the period covered by those
years the following projects were investigated: Synarep, Methow, Kootenai,
Colville, Chelan, Big Bend, Palouse and Priest Rapids. After investigation of
the above projects the engineers rendered an adverse decision as to taking them
up at that time. During the same time they investigated and reported favorably
upon taking up the Yakima and the Okanogan projects.
After investigation the board of engineers, consisting of Messrs. A. P.
Davis, D. C. Henny, A. J. Wiley and T. A. Noble, in a session from April 10
to April 30, 1905. made an elaborate report. The essential points in that report
were: first, that the natural flow of the Yakima was already appropriated to a
degree which exhausted its low water stage in Summer and Fall ; and second,
that to carrv' out any extensive reclamation there must be an extensive reservoir
system for storage of flood waters. The report proceeded to point out three
large units in the Yakima Basin, which, with such storage, might be feasible.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 367
These were the Kittitas, the Tieton, and the Sunnyside. The latter in-
cluded the old Ledbetter project.
This report further stated that the Washington Irrigation Company, then
owning the Sunnyside system, had made a proposition to the Government to
sell their holdings for a cash payment of $250,000, with the obligation upon
the Government to continue the delivery of water to the lands under irrigation
and to deliver water to the lands owned by the company, then amounting to
about 46,000 acres. For such delivery of water to the lands the company was
to make an annual maintenance payment of $1 an acre. The report urged that
the Sunnyside system be absorbed by Government, as part of a large project
for development of the entire valley. It appeared that 'he Sunnyside district
was overappropriating the water and under the existing conditions was a
menace to the rest of the valley, whereas, if owned by Government, it would
not be a menace, but would be a defense against the encroachments of subse-
quent claimants. It is further pointed out that among lands which might be
covered by an extension of the Sunnyside Canal were about 57,000 acres of land
selected by the state of Washington, for which a provisional contract had been
made with the company under the provisions of the Carey Act. That part of
the report concludes with these words : "The complete development of the
Yakima Basin depends upon the complete and economical development of the
storage facilities existing. If the reservoir sites are allowed to pass into private
hands, it is probable that they will be insufficiently developed."
Under date of May 4, 1904, the chief engineer approved recommendations
of the board providing first, for the immediate survey of Lakes Cle Elum,
Kachess, Keechelus, Bumping and McAllister Meadows, and any other prom-
ising reservoir sites ; second, for an examination of the Sunnyside district with
a view to its extension ; and, third, continuance of preliminary surveys of the
Kittitas, Cowiche, Tieton and Ledbetter projects.
As a result of these investigations a body of data was submitted to the two
boards of engineers, the first composed of A. P. Davis, Morris Bien, D. C.
Henny, and Joseph Jacobs; the second, of A. P. Davis, A. J. Wiley and D. C.
Henny. The first board recommended on October 16th that the Tieton project
be authorized and that $1,000,000 be set aside for it. The second board made a
number of recommendations, of which the first was that SI ,000,000 be set aside
for the purchase of the property of the Washington Irrigation Company and the
construction of the Sunnyside division of the Yakima project, that no con-
struction be undertaken until all private water claimants have adjusted their
claims, that no construction be undertaken till a satisfactory understanding be
had with the Indian Office in regard to water on the Reservation, that the
Ledbetter and Kittitas divisions receive due consideration as funds become
available.
These decisions of the boards and their approval by the Interior Depart-
ment may be considered the foundation of the vast project by Government
which soon entered into the active period of construction. A mass of details
had to be considered as preliminary to actual work. The most complicated was
the adjustment of private claims. As one means of securing harmonious action
368 HISTORY OF YAKLMA \'ALLEY
the Water Users' Association system was adopted, providing for stock sub-
scriptions by water users. Special mention is made in the Government report
of the great aid received by an executive committee of the Commercial Club of
North Yakima in adjusting these private rights.
In view of the prevalent opinion that Government operations are slow and
hampered by red tape, it is interesting to note that on March 27, 1906, the as-
sistant secretary of the interior wrote to the director of the Geological Survey,
definitely approving their recommendations, setting aside $1,000,000, and
$750,000, for the Tieton and Sunnyside projects respectively, and stating that
the settlement of all private claims had been passed upon favorably by the
assistant attorney-general of the United States. On July 6, 1906, a board of
engineers, consisting of A. J. Wiley, D. C. Henny, S. G. Hopson and Joseph
Jacobs, entered actively upon making contracts and other arrangements for
executing the recommendations.
STATE PROJECTS
One special question requiring adjustment was the relation of Govern-
ment plans to state plans. As a result of the Carey Act, the state a number of
years earlier had appropriated a large body of land in the lower valley and
had made filings on water on the Tieton. This was a vast scheme. A survey
had been made in 1895 of what was to be known as the Nlaches and Columbia
River Irrigation Canal, to be constructed to have an intake on the north side of
the Naches, to cross the Yakima by an inverted siphon, circle Moxee Valley, pass
through the ridge east of Union Gap by a tunnel 6,100 feet long, and continue
down the Valley to Rattlesnake Mountain to the lands overlooking the Colum-
bia River. The plan contemplated using Bumping Lake as a reservoir. The
canal would have carried two thousand second feet of water and would have
been 140 miles long. It would have blanketed to some degree both the Sunny-
side and the Ledbetter projects. The state had about 57,000 acres of land in
the lower valley which would have furnished the special interest in construct-
ing this canal. A good deal of friction arose between the upper and lower val-
leys over this project, the upper opposing and the lower favoring it. Before
the Government plans could be executed it became necessary to make an adjust-
ment of these state plans.
An act of the State Legislature of March 4, 1905, granted to the United
States Reclamation Service the power to exercise the right of Eminent Domain
in acquiring lands, water rights, and other property in pursuance of its under-
takings, and withdrew from filing for benefit of the United States all unappro-
priated water in the Yakima River.
By a number of notices the Department of the Interior notified the state
commissioner of lands of its filings on water and rights of way. Extension of
time for withdrawal of the waters of the Yakima was granted from time to
time as the magnitude of the work became manifest.
DESIGNATION OF UNITS
On March 9, 1909, the Secretary of the Interior gave official recognition to
the different units, as follows: Kittitas, Wapato, Benton, Sunnyside, Tieton,
HISTORY OF YAKIMA \-ALLEY 369
and Storage. Each of these has practically a history of its own, and such his-
tory may be found in extenso in the elaborate reports of the Reclamation office
in Yakima.
SUNNYSIDE PROJECT AND EXTENSIONS
Owing to the great magnitude of this project and its relations to previous
development, many important questions arose. The personnel of the force
mainly engaged in the development here since the Reclamation service assumed
control was as follows: C. H. Swigart, supervising engineer; E. McCulloch,
project engineer; R. K. Tiffany, project manager; E. A. Moritz, and W. H.
Burrage, assistant engineers.
As already stated the Washington Irrigation Company made propositions
for the sale of its property, and in pursuance of the business of transfer, a valu-
ation was made, by which it was estimated that it would cost $436,382 to repro-
duce the canal system, with an additional estimate of S86,I75 for the water
rights. The final settlement called for the purchase of the project for $250,000,
with the additional consideration to the Washington Irrigation Company of a
perpetual water right for its remaining irrigable lands, for which, however, it
should pay the annual maintenance charge of $1 per acre. Up to the time of
transfer the company had sold water rights for a little more than 44,500 acres,
exclusive of the Konnewock water rights of 3,000 acres, ns.sumed by them; and
they were actually furnishing water to 36,000 acres. It is of interest to note
that development proceeded so rapidly that in 1912 there was open for irriga-
tion, including private lands, a little over 80,500 acres, while about 63,000 acres
were actually receiving water. At the present date, 1918, there is an area
actually receiving water of about 90,000 acres.
METHODS OF LOCAL MANAGEMENT ILLUSTRATED
As an interesting example of the usage in local management and reporting
the same in the country papers, we include here a notice and report in the
"Mabton Chronicle" of November 8, 1918 :
NOTICE TO SHAREHOLDERS OF SUNNYSIDE WATER USERs' ASSOCIATION
Notice is hereby given to shareholders of Sunnyside Water Users' Asso-
ciation that the annual precinct meetings of said association will be held in the
several precincts on Saturday, November 30, 1918, at 10 A. M., at the respec-
tive places hereinafter designated:
No. 1 (Zillah)— Odd Fellows Hall, town of Zillah, Washington.
No. 2 (Outlook) — Outlook Hall, town of Outlook, Washington.
No. 3. (Sunnyside) — Odd Fellows Hall, town of Sunnyside, Washington.
No. 4 (Riverside) — Wendell Phillips Schoolhouse, Riverside, Washington.
No. 5 (Grandview) — Moody's Hall, town of Grandview, Washington.
No. 6 (Mabton) — Town Hall, town of Mabton, Washington.
No. 7 (Prosser) — Court House, town of Prosser, Washington.
Such meetings will be for the purpose of considering the voting upon the
estimate of expenses herewith submitted and for the transaction of any other
(24)
370 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
business which may legally come before such meetings. In Precincts Nos. 2
(Outlook), 4 (Riverside), 5 (Grandview), and 6 (Mabton), a trustee is to be
nominated in each, the names of such nominees to be voted upon at the annual
meeting of the shareholders on December 3, 1918.
Notice is hereby given that the annual meeting of said shareholders will
be held Tuesday, December 3, 1918, at 10 A. M., in Odd Fellows Hall, in the
town of Sunnyside, Washington, for the election of four trustees of said asso-
ciation, one each from Precincts Nos. 2 (Outlook), 4 (Riverside), 5 (Grand-
view), and 6 (Mabton), for considering and voting upon the estimate of ex-
penses herewith submitted, and for the transaction of any other business which
may legally come before such meeting.
ESTIMATE OF EXPENSES OF SUNNYSIDE WV\TER USERS' ASSOCIATION FOR THE
FISCAL YEAR ENDING NOVEMBER 30, 1919
Account. Estimate.
Secretary salary $ 900.00
Clerical 500.00
Trustees' meetings 300.00
Legal 500.00
Postage, printing and ofifice supplies 300.00
Miscellaneous office expenses
Hall and office rent 50.00
Recording 10.00
Building and lots
Taxes 35.00
Water rental
General expenses ; 300.00
Refunding assessments 250.00
Auditing 40.00
Contingent fund 400.00
Commissions for collection of assessments 200.00
Total $3,785.00
Dated at Sunnyside, Washington, this 5th day of November, 1918.
G. E. Rodman, Secretary.
THE STORAGE SYSTEMS
In the necessary limitations of space imposed upon us we can take but hurried
glances at this all-important part of the history.
It is evident that the storage systems compose the mainspring of the whole
matter. As determined by Government in entering upon the work, the only
way to secure extensive development was by impounding the flood waters at
the head of the Yakima and its tributaries. It was clear from the first that
there were three main reservoir basins. These were the three lakes, Cle Elum,
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 371
Kachess, and Keechelus at the head of the main river, the Bumping Lake at the
head of that river, and McAllister Meadows on the Tieton.
The Tieton had long been recognized by the old timers in Yakima as a
source of water supply. We must note the different plans which contemplated
using this inviting stream.
Probably the first conception of the use of this strenm was that of Charles
Schanno in 1876. He made a crude survey with a view to using water for
fluming out wood. Then came a suggestion by D. W. Stair in 1890. He pro-
posed that water from the glaciers at the head of the Tieton be diverted into
the Cowiche. W. H. Redman investigated, but pronounced the project im-
practicable. In 1891, in consequence of the state law passed providing for
irrigation districts, the Cowiche and Wide Hollow district was formed. Mr.
Strobach and Mr. Winchester, on behalf of tlie directors of the district,
engaged Guy Sterling to make a survey. Mr. Sterling spent about $4,000
investigating the Tieton canon and made a report which in all essential features
was the same as that made later by Charles M. Swigart for the Reclamation
service which was actually put into existence, though Mr. Swigart, not know-
ing of Mr. Sterling's survey, arrived at his findings independently.
In August, 1892, the district voted to issue bonds for half a million dollars
for constructing this work, but the hard times immediately following set the
whole plan aside. In 1895 E. C. Burlingame, an engineer of much energy and
ability, now at Walla Walla as manager of the Gardena project, made an
elaborate survey of the Tieton as the source of a supply for lands west of
Yakima. He did some construction work, which can still be seen on the
steep hillside on the south side of the Naches. But the construction at that
time of the Congdon Ditch cut otf a part of the lands which Mr. Burlingame
hoped to irrigate and the times were unfavorable for financing so expensive
an enterprise, and he was obliged to abandon it. At about the same date, as
we have seen, the state made plans for use of Bumping Lake and the Tieton
Basin. In 1896 B. F. Barge and others formed a plan for storing the flood
waters of the North fork of the Cowiche. They began work on this reservoir
November 4, 1901. At this point George S. Rankin and George Weikel, having
known of the Sterling survey of the Tieton, became interested and proceeded
to acquire a large part of the Barge property and entered upon a survey which
covered practically the entire Tieton project.
It became known by Mr. Rankin and his associates that there was not
sufficient unappropriated water for so large an enterprise as they contemplated
and hence they went before the legislature of 1904 with proposals for a law
to allow corporations to impound streams and create reservoirs for irrigation
purposes. This bill passed the state senate, but was defeated in the house.
Just at this juncture the Reclamation service of the United States was making
investigations, and Mr. Rankin, perceiving justly that future developments lay
along that line, placed the case before the Yakima Commercial Club and the
leading business men of -the city, with the result that there came to be a pow-
erful demand for entrance of the Reclamation service into the Yakima field.
Z72 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
These were essential stages in the progress of events leading to storage on the
Tieton and the Bumping.
COMPLETION OF THE TIETON PROJECT.
1
The project involved not only main and lateral canals, but tunnels, roads,
telephone lines, and buildings for temporary and permanent use, patrol houses,
repair shops, construction camps, and an elaborate system of transportation
and maintenance.
Disastrous floods occurred during the period of building, especially in
November, 1906 and 1909, causing expense and delay.
The main work, after the necessary preliminaries of surveys, road making,
house building, letting contracts, and assembling of equipment and forces, was
completed in 1909, 1910, and 1911. The completed sy.-ilem has twelve miles
of concrete-lined main canal, 89.86 miles of main laterals, and 238.33 miles of
sub-laterals. There are five tunnels, as follows: Steeple tunnel, 100 feet long;
Columnar tunnel, 1,200 feet long; Tieton tunnel, 2,730 feet long; North Fork
tunnel, 3,810 feet long. Out of the total length of twelve miles of main there
is thus about two miles of tunnel. The tunnel work was begun in 1907, two
years in advance of the canal work. The unit of distribution canals was
naturally divisible into three parts; the Naches, the Cow-iche-Yakima, and the
Wide Hollow. They were constructed in the order given, in 1909, 1910, and
1911. The Naches branch, comprising about 10,000 acres, was ready for water
on May 15, 1909. During the next year the second branch, also of 10,000
acres, received its water supply. The Wide Hollow branch was declared open
by proclamation of the Secretary of the Interior on January 24, 1912. There
is a total area under the project of about 32,000 acres.
COST OF TIETON SYSTEM
The Tieton project was an expensive one, and yet owing to its manifold
attractions of soil, location, and market, it has rapidly developed during the
six years in which it has been open to settlement. By notice of the Secretary
of the Interior, March 21, 1913, payments were fixed on a ten year basis, with
interest included in the payment as given:
First installment $ 9.30
Second installment 1.50
Third installment 3.00
Fourth installment 4.00
Fifth installment 5.20
Sixth installment 10.00
Seventh installment 15.00
Eighth installment 15.00
Ninth installment 15.00
Tenth installment - 15.00
A total of $93.00. The provision was made that at least 50% of the irri-
gable part of any holding must be improved.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 373
By the Reclamation Extension Act of August 13, 1914, the time of pay-
ment was extended to twenty years, without interest. The first four payments
are each 2%, the next two 4^ each, and the remaining fourteen are each 6%.
In 1917 the newly organized Yakima-Tieton Irrigation district authorized
an additional expenditure of $11.63 per acre on 32,000 acres for the purpose
of enlarging the Main Canal and improving the distribution system to provide
an increased water supply.
THE LAKE RESERVOIRS.
The low water flow of the Yakima and its tributaries is relatively small,
while the flood waters are enormous. It was therefore a very easy and
natural deduction that to carry out the vast plans for irrigating practically the
entire valley, immense impounding works must be constructed. Natural reser-
voir sites exist in the lakes at the head of the Yakima and its first affluent, the
Cle Elum, and in Bumping Lake with its outlet of the same name tributary
to the Naches, and in McAllister Meadows on the Tieton. With the initiation
of irrigation in the Kittitas the use of the lakes at the head of the river was con-
sidered. Surveys were made in the early nineties by the N. P., Yakima, and
Kittitas Company, and a decade later by the Yakima Development Company.
Considerable work was actually performed by the Cascade Canal Company
and a timber crib dam was completed by them at Lake Keechelus on June 1,
1904.
While the Tieton project was in progress initial work was beginning on the
reservoir sites. The climatic conditions, as well as the instrumentalities of
this work, will be rendered more clear to our readers by some of the pictures
in this volume.
A general plan of construction was adopted by which the Bumping Lake
dam was to be constructed in 1904-10, the Lake Kachess dam in 1912-15.
The Cle Elum and McAllister Meadows projects v/ere held up pending
the completion of the other three. One of the important side issues of the
work was clearing the valuable timber from the area that would be submerged.
It was estimated that there was about 64,000,000 feet of merchantable timber
that would be submerged. The Government accordingly ofifered these bodies
of timber for sale. Bids were made by which different contractors undertook
to clear the timber.
A saw mill was built by Joseph F. Walsh on Lake Cle Elum in 1909. The
contractors on the Lake Keechelus site erected a saw mill and began work at
the same time. The contractors on the Lake Kachess site failed to fulfill their
engagements, and in 1912 the Government annulled the contract and included
the timber work at that point in the regular Reclamation service budget.
BUMPING L.\KE RESERVOIR.
This first of the reservoirs was begun during the Fall of 1908 and com-
pleted in November, 1910. Some interesting data may be given of the general
features of this unit. The drainage area is 68 square miles, the area of the
lake is 1,350 acres, the capacity is 34,000 acre feet, the spillway can discharge
374 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
6,000 second feet, and the outlet can discharge 550 second feet. The lake is
at an elevation above sea level of 3,400 feet.
The division, both preliminary and construction, was in charge of Charles
H. Swigart as supervising engineer, with J. S. Conway, J. D. Fauntleroy, James
Stuart, and E. H. Baldwin, engaged in the various details of construction.
KACHESS LAKE RESERVOIR.
The work by the Cascade Canal Company already referred to, completed
in 1904, was the subject of much negotiation. It was linally settled without
the threatened litigation by an agreement that the company pay the Govern-
ment $10,000 in ecjual annual installments and surrender all their rights, receiv-
ing in compensation a perpetual right to 16,800 acre feet of water from the
storage works between July 20th and October 16th of each year. This was
an interesting and important feature of the history of this project, as demon-
strating the policy of the Federal Government to acquire undisputed control
and at the same time recognize the private initiative and pioneer enterprise,
so vital and characteristic in all American development.
The essential data of the Kachess unit are these: Drainage area, 63
square miles ; water area. 4,800 acres ; capacity, 210,000 acre feet ; capacity of
the spillway, 7,200 second feet, and capacity of the outlet, 1,000 second feet.
LAKE KEECHELUS RESERVOIR.
Pioneer work on this site also had been done by both the Northern Pacific,
Yakima, and Kittitas Company and the Cascade Canal Company. A dam was
completed by the latter company on April 19, 1907, at a cost of about $29,000,
by which the water level was raised ten feet and about 15,000 acre feet of
storage obtained.
Important statistical information of the Keechelus dam is derived from
the Government report as follows : Drainage area, 56 square miles ; lake area,
2,550 acres, capacity 174,000 acre feet. The spillway has a capacity of 10,000
second feet and the outlet has a capacity of 1,000 second feet.
Work on this dam was begun in the Summer of 1912 under the super-
vision of C. E. Crownover, project engineer. It was completed in November,
1918.
LAKE CLE ELUM RESERVOIR.
On this lake also, the largest in the Yakima Basin, the same pioneers as
on the other lakes inaugurated work looking to an impounding system. The
Northern Pacific, Yakima, and Kittitas Company m.ide surveys and gave
notices of filing appropriations. They did not, however, do any actual con-
struction. The Washington Irrigation Company succeeded to their rights and
endeavored to maintain a hold upon the lakes.
In 1904 Messrs. Lombard and Horsley of North \'akima organized the
Union Gap Irrigation Company and in jMarch, 1905, began the construction
of a low crib dam, 223 feet long and two feet high at Lake Cle Elum. They
filed on 400 second feet of water, posting a notice on the dam. The dam was
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 375
built of timber which had been got out by the Washington Company. Two
employes of the latter company adopted a strenuous and summary method of
getting rid of a rival, and on August 16 blew up that dam with dynamite.
Relations between the two companies were naturally somewhat strained and
litigation ensued. But in the meantime the Reclamation service was entering
the field and the private companies retired.
The Union Gap Company ceded their land and water rights to the Gov-
ernment and received in recompense a right to 28 second feet of water from
April to August inclusive. A crib dam was constructed by the Reclamation
service for temporary use during 1906-07, at a cost of $47,000. Severe loss
was suffered on account of the great floods of November, 1906, and Novem-
ber, 1909.
That crib dam was succeeded by permanent improvements begun in 1912.
The essential statistics of the Lake Cle Elum project when it shall be completed
are as follows : Drainage area, 205 square miles ; lake area, 4,680 acres ;
capacity, 490,000 second feet. The capacity of the spillway is to be 18,000
second feet. At present date the Cle Elum work consists simply of a crib dam
impounding 25,000 acre feet.
As can be seen the Cle Elum reservoir is larger than all the others com-
bined. As indicating the nature of these dams it may be said that the Cle Elum
dam will have a maximum height above the stream bed of 125 feet and a volume
of 617,000 cubic yards. Its crest length is to be 1,150 feet and its top width 20
feet.
ACREAGE, PRESENT AND PROSPECTIVE, UNDER THE GOVERNMENT PROJECT.
The existing acreage supplied with water under the different government
projects are, at this date (1918), as follows:
Kittitas unit, not developed.
Tieton unit, 32,000.
Wapato unit, 70,000.
Sunnyside unit, 100,000.
Benton unit and High Line, not developed.
Total, 202,000.
The amount in prospect, with the completed storage resources of the river,
is as follows:
Kittitas unit 70,000
Tieton unit 32,000
Wapato unit 120,000
Sunnyside unit 110,000
Benton unit and High Line 200,000
Future total 532,000
The expense of these various units has varied greatly. The cost of the
Tieton unit was about $93 per acre, and that amount, as we have seen, has
been charged the purchasers. Some of the lands on the Indian reservation
376 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
have been reclaimed at so surprisingly low a cost as $8.50 per acre. The great
Wapato Canal taken out of the Yakima just below Union Gap, the largest in
the Valley, having a flow of 1,500 second feet, has so favorable gradients that
its cost is far less than that of the other canals. It supplies 70,000 acres of
land, and when the distribution system is complete will irrigate 120,000 acres.
The estimated average cost of this reservation system, not taking into account
the pro rata cost of the reservoir system, is about $32 per acre.
SOME OF THE POETRY OF IRRIGATION.
We spoke at the outset of this chapter of the element of poetry existing
in farming, in an irrigated country. We asserted that Yakima would some
time be a land of poetry and art. In concluding the chapter we will prove our
assertion by two examples of the local expression of appreciation of the beauty
of the region and its agencies of husbandry. A song adapted to the music of
"Maryland, My Maryland," was composed by Mr. Harry S. Sharpe, a musician
of Yakima. We insert it here.
(From The Northwestern Magazine.)
YAKIxMA, MY YAKIMA.
(Tune, Maryland, My Maryland.)
Words by Harry S. Sharpe.
Vale of the West, I sing of thee,
Yakima, my Yakima;
Thy fruitful lands I love to see,
Yakima, my Yakima;
From Selah heights for many a mile.
Thy bounteous crops make nature smile.
And bids mankind his care beguile,
Yakima, my Yakima,
Our peaches, pears and apples red,
Yakima, my Yakima;
O'er all the world our fame has spread,
Yakima, my Yakima,
Wheat, hay and oats grow side by side.
Alfalfa fields spread far and wide,
Grim want with us shall ne'er abide,
Yakima, my Yakima.
The Lord from whom all blessings flow,
Yakima, my Yakima;
Hath surely blest us here below,
Yakima, my Yakima;
For we, his favored people, blest,
Own fairest spot in mighty West,
Come, tarry here and be our guest,
Yakima, my Yakima.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 377
A special demonstration of the place of appreciation held by Irrigation in
the minds of the people of Yakima, who owe everything to that instrumentality,
is found in a unique and attractive production given as a pageant in Yakima
in 1917. The pageant was entitled "Visions Fulfilled." The words were the
joint composition of two well known ladies of Yakima, Mrs. Sue Lombard
Horsley and Miss Alice M. Tenneson. By their kind permission we have the
privilege of presenting here this beautiful tribute to "Irrigation."
VISIONS FULFILLED.
A SYMBOLICAL PAGEANT OF THE VALLEYS OF THE YAKIMA.
BY ALICE M. TENNESON AND SUE M. LOMBARD.
CAST.
Seeress Miss Emily Reed
Chief of Indians Dr. C. E. Keeler
Irrigation Miss Helen Lee
Reclamation Miss Isabelle Hoffman
Pioneer A. E. Larson
Famine- Mrs. Dora S. Dawson
Water Wheel Man C. E. Sanderson
INDIAN ERA.
Indian Era —
The air is filled with fiendish mockery.
The noisy demons of the dust dance past
In dizzy revel in the whirling blast,
A very pandemonium of glee,
Among the rocks their only enemy,
Irrigation, struggles, pinioned fast.
The superstitious Redman stands aghast
Before the storm; the cry for liberty
He does not hear, nor, when the wind has ceased
The promise that if she shall be released
Rich goods she'll give in such a bounteous store
That to his home, dread Famine nevermore
May stalk, but through the sagebrush gray
Like cowardly coyote slink away.
Irrigation —
I am Irrigation,
Long ago my hands and feet were tied —
When the ice receded
And the valleys thus scooped out had dried,
Nature's forces bound me —
Placed a dauntless enemy on guard.
But they made a challenge —
Promised to my rescuer reward.
378 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Invisible they made me,
Save to him whose eyes are trained to see.
For the valley's treasure
Is too great to give unworthily.
Yet I lie here pinioned
Altho many ages have passed by.
Redman, Redman, listen,
Will ye never hear me as I cry?
Song of Dust Demons —
Sing the revel
Sing in fiendish revel of the dust, Tra la, la, la.
Where the wind blows down the hillsides steep.
Laughing through the valley do we sweep,
Shrieking thro the sagebrush do we leap
Forever in bonds. Irrigation we'll keep.
Up and down, on the blast
Round and round, whirling fast.
Back and forth, demons chasing
O'er the rocks and boulders racing
Jeering, mocking at our foe,
Cactus prickles do we throw.
Struggling there, but tightly pinioned
Ever shall she lie.
Whene'er the wind comes howling loud.
We answer him and like a cloud.
Hills and mountains do we hide
And darken all the sky.
Green things die, they perish 'neath our stride.
Whirling and twirling, speeding through the air
Swifter and swifter, racing everywhere
Faster and faster, none is our master.
Ah, no power can our might deny —
All the world we defy.
Famine —
I am the Goddess of hunger, Famine, the cruel ;.r.d gaur.t,
Hated of beings am I, insatiate Goddess of want.
Make me a sacrifice ; maidens and men I demand that you give.
Give me your sturdiest infants or none of your number shall live.
Place on my altar your loveliest women and strongest of braves.
Then I shall laugh, when my wrath is appeased, I shall dance on their
graves.
Irrigation —
Rescue me, oh Redman, and no more shall children of the brave
Fear when Famine threatens, from her deadly menace I will save.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 379
Loose my chains, oh Redman, and whate'er you wish for shall be true.
Food shall be in plenty, rich shall be the goods I give to you.
COWBOY ER.\.
From out the great Northwest does progress call
For hardy men and strong. Across the plains.
In saddle or in prairie schooner trains,
Through breaches in the Rocky mountain wall
They come, and down rough paths that would appall
Less sturdy folk. To such, whose line contains
None faint of heart, cries she who lies in chains,
But on deaf ears do her entreaties fall
And they pass on, save cowboys with their herds,
Who heed her not. At last some hear her words
And try to break her bonds with some success.
But even thus, does she their efforts bless
With such reward it frights her ancient foe —
For they foresee the time when they must go.
Irrigation —
Comes a host of people —
Skill and wisdom are their heritage.
Surely from their number
One shall loose me from .the dust storm's rage.
List, I beg for freedom.
Promise ransom rich I will bestow.
Oh, they do not heed me.
On to other greener fields they go.
But this band of cowboys.
Maybe they will hear me as I call.
They are also heedless.
On deaf ears do my entreaties fall.
Chorus of the Coivboys — ' '
He loves his life of danger,
To fear he is a stranger,
The cowboy with his spurs.
The snake with angry rattle
Or wild stampeding cattle
He greets whate'er occurs.
With "chaps" and wide sombrero
He rides where paths are narrow
Or where the valley's wide;
For man or beast who'd trifle
He bears a loaded rifle —
His sure aim is his pride.
380 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Irrigation' —
The cowboys did not hear me.
Maybe these bhie-coated soldiers will,
As before the blockhouse
On the sand and 'mid the dust they drill.
Vain is my entreaty.
I shall have to wait for other aid,
So there's none to hear me?
One who of the dust is not afraid?
Pioneer —
Methought I heard one calling;
Demons, stand ye back ; our way we force
Through your sneering numbers.
We have heard a cry and we would know its source.
Ah, it is a lovely maiden.
We would strive to succor your distress.
Tell us how to free you,
That our effort shall receive success.
Irrigation—
All you do that injures
Or impedes the power of my foe
Serves to loose my fetters.
Chain the river's waters.
There shall grow
Everywhere you pour them
Fairest flowers and what men may need
Of old earth's best products.
This small valley many lands may feed.
Chorus of Grains and Grasses —
Oft in the springtime we greeted the sky
But when the sun of summertime came
Died with the violets growing nearby,
Every year the same.
Now at the bidding of her wlio lies bound
Life giving streams from the rivers they bring.
Gladly again do we spring from the ground,
Joyfully do we sing.
Green are the fields where the grasses are growing
Golden the grain in the autumn winds blowing.
Ah, let us dance in the riotous breeze.
The dust storm may rage as its future it sees.
She shall be free and our sisters shall play —
All the broad valley burst into song —
Irrigation's chains at her feet shall they lay
She shall be free ere long.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 3S1
Song of the Demons —
Our hold upon our ancient realm shall vanish
Unless we fight ;
These impudent invaders we must banish
Or lose our might
We'll laugh and jeer at all their skilled endeavor
To till the soil.
We'll rage and rave until success can never
Reward their toil.
(Refrain.)
Listen, listen, we shall never go
Ha ha, ha ha, oh, laugh ha ha
We shall louder blow
Ha ha, ha ha, oh laugh, ha ha
COMING OF THE RAILROAD.
Again the angry demons are afraid
And try their hated captive to conceal,
For such a wonder working path of steel
Along the riverside is being laid
That men by hundreds rapidly invade
The cowboy's own domain. At her appeal
Dig ditches from the streams and make a wheel
To pour the water on the earth. Such aid
Has freed her arms, her body moves with grace.
And, the her feet are fettered still, the place
Has been transformed from desert waste of sand
By irrigation to a "Promised Land."
In all the fields the grains and grasses play
And merrily dance orchard blossoms gay.
Irrigation —
When the pioneers came
They never hoped to see their homes again.
Letters came but seldom.
Only by a long hard journey then.
But these newer settlers
Are near neighbors to their distant friends,
They have brought the railway,
And their very thoughts the wire sends.
Listen to me, oh ye people.
As your homes and villages you build.
All these noisy demons
With their clamor shall be stilled
If you will but heed me.
382 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Full the river is with water pure,
Build a wheel to pour it
On the soil, the harvest shall be sure.
Or from out the sources
Of the stream let flumes and trenches lead,
And your fields shall furnish
Wealth for you and all the valley feed.
Where one blade of grass grows
Many shall spring up and ears of wheat
Yield a rich abundance ;
Orchard trees lay treasure at your feet.
Song of the IVaterzvhcel —
Oh, waterwheel, why do you laugh as you sing?
Because to the dry thirsty soil do I bring
A drink for the grasses and gold iields of grain.
I laugh at the cloudland withholding the rain.
The wild wind may bluster, the dust storm may blow,
But spite of the ravings the green things shall grow —
The sun in the heavens may angrily burn
But orchards shall flourish while laughing I turn.
The Yakima flowing away to the sea
Gives gladly its waters, rejoice now with me.
Oh bright little blossoms, the Valley is gay,
Oh dance, little grasses, and sing all the day.
Song of Grains and Grasses —
Where there was one blade of com there are tv/o.
Many green blades where one grew before
Thousands of blossoms where once there were few
And there shall still be more.
Cottages stand where the Sagebrush was gray.
Gay in the gardens and midst the bright flowers
Sweet is the sound of the children at play
Laughing through happy hours.
Fragrant and dainty the blossoms are swaying
Joyous the call to the dance they're obeying,
Up from his nesting the meadow lark soars
And blissfully sings from the Heaven's blue doors,
To all the joy of the earth giving voice.
Grasses and children, blossoming trees,
Carol with him and as gayly rejoice
While the dread dust storm flees.
RECLAMATION ERA.
Now, Uncle Sam has heard the final plea
For help to drive the foe from where it fights
To hold its last retreat upon the heights.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 383
He sends his daughter, Reclamation. She
Does bring a retinue from which must flee
All powers of the drought; the source it smites
Of all the strength which hindered those delights
Of Irrigation, who at last is free.
Again the blossoms 'dance, the grasses play,
The green of growing corn replaces gray
Of sagebrush, brown of barren soil ; the trees
Invite the joyous birds, new industries
Call busy men from all the earth to live,
Where of the highest service they may give.
Irrigation —
Fair has grown the Valley
But upon the heights in strong retreat,
My old foe still mocks me
For my freedom is not quite complete.
Aid once more I summon
Beg for liberty so long deferred
Far my cry has carried
For in Washington have I been heard.
Uncle Sam is sending
Me his daughter, Reclamation fair.
Engineers, her vanguard
Come, the way before her to prepare.
Song of the Engineers —
At the ends of the earth,
Where brooks have their birth.
Or where rivers roll into the sea.
Where the mountains are high
Or the dark chasms lie,
Where nature, unconquered, is free,
A challenge is made.
He replies unafraid
And bridges the canyon's wide deep.
He chains the stream's source
Or alters its course
And tunnels the precipice steep.
Chorus —
The civil engineer, who brings the distance near,
Sure paths he makes, the strength he breaks
Of Nature's evil powers.
He digs through rocks and sands that oceans may join hands ;
The forest he clears, the swamp disappears
And the desert blooms with flowers.
384 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Irrigation, you grieve
But we shall achieve
What vainly the others would do,
Your call has been heard
And she has been stirred
Reclamation has sent us to you.
And every spot
Where gardens are not,
Into wonderful verdure shall burst,
For the snows we will take
And form you a lake
Whose waters shall quench the soil's thirst.
Irrigation —
See the foe is vanishing
I am free and they have met defeat
For my liberator
Comes, and Reclamation's self we greet.
Great the debt we owe you,
Reclamation, and the clear-eyed seers
Tell us that still greater
Obligation comes with future years.
Friends, behold the vision ;
See you not the stately cities rise?
Beautiful their buildings
Broad their streets where busy trafific plies.
And the teeming thousands
Satisfy their needs and have to spare
Where amid the cactus
Scattered Indians found but scanty fare.
All Sing —
Hail Reclamation, all honor to thee.
Thankfully Irrigation bows low,
Thou hast delivered her and she is free,
Vanquished her ancient foe.
All the sad days of her bondage are o'er.
Graceful, before thee, she dances her joy.
Cactus and reveling demons no more
Terrify or annoy.
When the hot sun of summer is burning
And the steep hillsides to red brown are turning
Though all the windows of heaven may close,
And sluggishly slow the low river flows,
People shall still reap reward for their toil.
Riches unmeasured spring from our soil.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 385
Never the source of the waters shall fail,
Hail, Reclamation, hail.
Gracious Uncle Sam, thou didst bestow
A gift by which our agriculture crude
A science has become. True gratitude
Is shown by deeds — and thus the debt we owe
We would fulfill. For though the world may know
Our fame, unless our spirits be imbued
With loftier aim, we rank with savage rude
Who measures life by goods that he can show.
No, rather be this land of ours made known
By those who through unselfishness have shown
The truest use of wealth — which is to share
With others. Here let no oppression bear
Upon the weak — and let us not, engrossed
In Things, forget to value Life the most.
Note : This pageant has been copyrighted.
— W. D. L.
While these pages were in preparation, certain public announcements of
great interest in regard to irrigation have appeared in the press of the state.
These are worthy of preservation here and are accordingly incorporated as
a final glance at this vital phase of the history of the Yakima Valley and the
state.
"Kennewick Courier-Reporter," November 7, 1918:
The best piece of news that has come Kennewick's way for many a day
is the announcement that Franklin K. Lane, Secretary of the Interior, has
recommended an appropriation of $250,000 for the Kennewick extension of
the Sunnyside Canal.
While this amount is less than one-third of the sum required to complete
the extension it means that the work is to be started and that other appropria-
tions will be made to keep it under way. If there is no delay in getting the
appropriation bill through Congress it is thought work can be started this winter
and by year after next water for the irrigation of the Highlands will be avail-
able.
The extension is to be made from a point in the Sunnyside Canal opposite
Chandler a few miles above Kiona where a siphon is to be constructed across
the Yakima River. The extension will bring under irrigation about 40,000
acres of choice lands, including the lands at present under cultivation on the
Highlands and all lands of a similar elevation down the valley as far as Hover.
In speaking of the proposed extension R. K. Tiffany, manager of the
Yakima project, savs:
(25)
386 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
"An appropriation of $250,000 at this time would enable the Reclamation
service to construct the main canal for a distance of twenty miles. This work
could be done in a year and would allow sufficient time for conditions to read-
just thersselves and to release steel for the construction of the siphon across
the Yakima River, which will take fully one year to construct. This siphon
alone will cost about as much as the proposed appropriation, but by the time
we would have the main line canal built, we probably would have another ap-
propriation. It will take at least $666,437 to construct the entire extension,
which includes some concrete structures and ten miles of laterals. In sub-
mitting our budget for proposed work for 1918-20 we asked that amount for
this extension alone. We could employ 300 men and 150 teams for the first
six months of the main canal construction and then proceed with a crew of
about 100 men and half that many teams.
"This extension means a great deal to the Kennewick section and to the
city of Kennewick itself. It will put it on the map as one of the greatest pro-
ducers in the Northwest. The season is longer in this district than elsewhere
in the valley. It will make a wonderful alfalfa producer with an output capac-
ity of four to five crops per season."
Another announcement of great interest follows :
"Walla Walla Bulletin," December 2, 1918:
Property owners in the western part of Walla Walla County and progres-
sive community development enthusiasts all over eastern Washington are much
interested in the reconstruction plan of Governor Ernest Lister, which would
place nearly 3,000,000 acres of land under irrigation with water from the Pend
Oreille River. All eastern Washington is aroused over the possibilities of this
gigantic project which would mean much to this section Df the state. He figures
the cost at about $250,000,000 and says the project would furnish work for
many of the returned soldiers and sailors as well as make homes for 50,000
families.
WOULD ELIMINATE PROFITEERING
The governor's proposition includes the purchase of the lands by the state
at prices ranging from $1 to $10 an acre, so that the entire project will be under
state supervision and profiteering entirely eliminated. He then favors having
the Federal Government take charge' of the irrigation portion of the work and
continue the supervision of that part of the development project.
This proposed irrigation plan covers large arid sections of Lincoln, Adams,
Grant, a portion of Douglas, all of Franklin, and a section of Walla Walla and
Whitman counties, and touches the southwestern portion of Spokane? County.
CS-NAL FROM. PEND OREILLE RIVER
It is a part of the mammoth scheme to start an irrigation canal at Albany
Falls, Idaho, on the Pend Oreille River; have this pass through Newport and
follow the Little Spokane River a short distance, pass near Deer Park, and
follow the course of the Spokane River to a point northv/est of Davenport in
Lincoln County. A tunnel of eighteen miles would be one of the undertakings.
The canal would be at an elevation of 2,040 feet above sea level and the use
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 387
of the water would first start at an elevation of 1,800 feet, at a point southwest
of Davenport. It is also considered that other sections of the country along
the canal, northeast of Davenport, would be able to use water, thus increasing
the productivity of these lands, as well as enriching the bigger section to the
west.
GOVERNOR SEES GRE.\T POSSIBII,ITIES
"The land would produce everything now raised in the Yakima Valley,"
said Governor Lister at the Davenport Hotel yesterday. "It seems to me, how-
ever," he continued, "that its development ought to cover especially the pro-
duction of alfalfa and live stock, including fat beef stock, sheep and hogs.
Dairying has not come to the front on the east side of the mountains to the
degree it should and this development would accommodate a large increase in
the dairy line.
"I know of nothing that can be produced in a temperate climate that can
not be grown here if the land is under irrigation, for the soil is unsurpassed.
WOULD DEVELOP SUGAR BEET INDUSTRY
"I also think it will develop a sugar beet district, the same as has been done
in the Yakima Valley. Climatic conditions are excellent' for the inditstry. '
"The territory is tapped by four transcontinental railroads and the Colum-
bia River, which is open to the sea. From a transportation standpoint I know
of no district in the United States as fortunate as this.
"While I estimate the cost at $250,000,000, basing it on $100 an acre Ipr
2,500,000 acres, I believe in fixing this figure at a high rather than a Idw rate.
"The time as to when the work would be completed is problematical, but
after completing the canal to the first headlands, those lands could be placed on
the market to home builders and colonization work continued as the canal is
extended.
LEGISLATION IS REQUIRED
"There is certain legislation required, which would cause someidelay, but
if the state should decide to purchase the land, legislation could be passed -at
the coming session. In its purchase a bond issue would be required and it would
probably not be possible to complete this in less than two years as it would have
to be authorized by a vote of the people at a regular election.
"In the meantime there are many other lines in which development work
can begin immediately and these ought to be taken up, whether governmental
or private, so we can furnish work to our returning soldiers and those who
have been engaged in war activities.
GROW PEACHES, PEARS, APPLES
"The lands proposed to be irrigated would be excellent for the growing
of peaches, pears and apples, which are recognized as the leading fruit crops in
the present irrigated districts. Excellent potatoes could be raised. A large
acreage would be suitable for wheat with no probability of crop failures such
as are caused by drouth.
388 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
"We are gradually obtaining more canneries, which are of importance in
the development of the country, to take care of the fruit and vegetable products,
and I consider that the sugar beet industry would increase to large proportions
rapidly, thus bringing in more sugar factories.
PROSPECTS BETTER THAN EVER
"The prospects for agricultural development are probably better than ever
before. If we accept the opportunities we have we will come out of this a
greater state and a better people.
"There is plenty of this land that is just as good as any of that in the
Yakima Valley, where the crop for last year was valued at $30,000,000, yet
today much of this eastern Washington land is practically valueless.
"It is my belief that there are plenty of opportunities for a man to earn a
living if he cares to work for it. We can do no better work than that toward
building up our state and encouraging the idea of thrift in our people.
WOULD ACCOMIMODATE 50,000 FAMILIES
"At least 50,000 families could be accommodated on the lands mentioned
in the project. However, I consider that a conservative figure, which allows
fifty acres to each family, taking 2,500,000 acres as a basis. Many families on
irrigated tracts have from twenty to forty acres. For stockraising purposes
and wheat lands I consider that some may handle as much as eighty acres."
Yet another local extract denotes the progress of plans in the vital subject
of irrigation:
"Walla Walla Bulletin," December 15, 1918:
SUMMERS AND JONES ARE WORKING FOR MORE IRRIGATION
FORMER AIRS VIEWS ON SUBJECT AND L.\TTER WRITES WHAT HE IS NOW DOING
AT WASHINGTON
Irrigation projects being one of the chief factors in the proposed "recon-
struction" program, the subject has brought forth many ideas and propositions,
several of which have devolved into inquiries as to what might be accomplished
along this line by Congressman-elect Dr. John W. Summers.
About five weeks ago Doctor Summers went to Pasco and called a con-
ference of business men there who were most interested in the subject of irri-
gation. Following that conference he visited the Five-Mile Rapids and made a
personal investigation of that project. He was then called to the Pasco good
roads meeting for another conference on irrigation, which was also attended
by Governor Lister and Director Tift'any of the Yakima irrigation projects. As
a result of these conferences and the information obtained from several other
prominent reclamation authorities. Doctor Summers has issued the following
statement as to his views on the subject:
"Persistency of the towns of the Yakima Valley in constantly pushing
their irrigation plans has extended to Pasco and might well be emulated by
Walla Walla and other communities.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 389
"At different times during the war the powers that be announced that re-
clamation work in the Yakima Valley must cease during the war. Almost
invariably public meetings were held and a united effort and usually a success-
ful effort was made to show the national authorities that their reclamation work
should be pushed even more speedily as a "win the war,' 'food production' meas-
ure. Those communities are made up of the right sort of stick-to-it-never-say-
quit mettle.
"They put up a united well planned campaign and usually succeeded. Con-
fidence, determination, success characterize their efforts.
PASCO LEADS THE WAY
"Pasco has caught this spirit in her efforts to develop the Lower Snake
River irrigation project at Five-Mile Rapids.
"Your readers may not know that the Commercial Club of Pasco about
three years ago employed at an expense of about $1,000, Mr. E. G. Hobson, a
civil engineer, who had had thirty years' experience with the state of Massa-
chusetts, the city of New York, and the United States Reclamation , Service to
report on this Five-Mile Rapids project. Mr. Hobson availed himself of thfe
United States Reclamation report on the Palouse project, a report on the PaSco
irrigation pumping project, the United States Geological Survey of the Snake
River water flow, data furnished by the O. W. R. & N. Company and others. '
"As a result of these investigations a forty-foot dam across the Snake
River five miles above its mouth is proposed.
NAVIGATION AND IRRIGATION
"A navigable channel with locks would also be provided which would
raise the low water level well over Five-]\Iile and Fish-Hook Rapids and would
open the Snake for navigation as far as Lewiston, Idaho, every day in the year.
"Mr. Hobson's report was made for the Pasco Commercial Club and pro-
posed to irrigate 62,500 acres in Franklin County adjacen; to Pasco. However,
his figures reveal that there would also be an ample water supply at all times to
irrigate 60,000 acres in the west end of Walla Walla County.
WOULD COST SIX MILLIONS
"As figured in 1915 the total cost of dain, pumping plants, force mains,
concrete laterals and navigation improvements would be approximately six
million dollars, of which $500,000 could be properly charged to navigation im-
provements and would not be charged against the land.
"An additional expenditure would also make possible the development and
sale of $150,000 of cheap electric power annually. This power could be trans-
mitted to every town in southeastern Washington.
COULD IRRIGATE EUREKA FLAT
"If deemed advisable, this power could be used in putting water, during
the Winter and Spring months, on a hundred thousand acres on Eureka Flat.
390 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
"This plan of making a double use of the water and the power generated
would spread the cost of construction over a very large area and would lighten
the burden for all.
"So far as I know, this double utility plan for the use of this water and
power has not been considered, but it seems to me it is worthy of full investi-
gation- by our Commercial Club or by our Eureka Flat farmers.
"The success or failure of this entire project depends on whether or not a
substantial rock bottom can be found on which to build the dam. All engineers
whose opinion I have obtained believe the outcropping of basaltic rock at that
point makes it practically certain that the foundation is ample for a forty-foot
dam. However, no one can answer this question definitely until the government
appropriation is obtained and the dam site has been thoroughly drilled.
SNAKE RIVER PROJECT HAS M'ANY ADVANTAGES
"It seems to me this project should appeal to Walla Walla and Franklin
counties above all other projects because it makes irrigation of these lands a
possibility within a few years' time; it makes possible a saving of 50 per cent,
on our electric bills and gives us river transportation from Lewiston to Portland
all the year round. At the risk of criticism from my railroad friends I am going
to say all-the-year river transportation would increase the price of every bushel
of wheat grown in the Inland Empire three cents a bushel and that it would do
as much or more for every box of apples.
"The fact that transportation facilities for Oregon and Idaho would be
greatly enhanced should make the Five-Mile Rapids project appeal also to the
congressional delegation from these two states.
"The growing of alfalfa, dairying, berry and grape culture and probably
most profitable of all the growing of sugar beets would be carried on exten-
sively, and we could then look with confidence for one or more million dollar
sugar beet factories in this territory. Our crop production would be increased
six to ten million -dollars annually.
"Mr. Tififany, project manager of the reclamation service in the Yakima
Valley, expects to spend a very large sum in that valley during 1919, and his
plans call for the expenditure of $30,000,000 during the next six years.
"The various Yakima projects, including the high line, have been fully
investigated and should be pushed through to early completion. If our Snake
River project is economically sound, as all preliminary reports indicate, it also
should be pushed to the limit. Several thousand men would be employed on
this project alone.
"The benefits accruing from this Snake River undertaking would be so
general, and so widespread over southeast Washington that it would seem we
might all join hands and work unitedly for this really worth-while project.
SUMMERS FAVORS OTHER PROJECTS ALSO
"I should not favor the Yakima Valley and the Snake River projects only.
Priest' Rapids, Quincy Flats, Horse Heaven and other projects should be inves-
HISTORY OF YAKOIA VALLEY 391
tigated thoroughly and if found to be feasible and economically sound their
development should be undertaken at once in order to safeguard our labor when
ten million men are released from the army, from munition plants, ship yards
and other war industries. The speedy development of these lands should be
undertaken at this time in order that we may the sooner provide land settle-
ment opportunities for our returned soldiers and other worthy settlers and thus
contribute our full share to the food production, to the commerce, and in fact
to the solution of the reconstruction problems of the world."
SENATOR JONES BACK OF IRRIGATION PLAN
"United States Senator Wesley L. Jones is urging the people to do their
duty in the matter of irrigation and reclamation projects, thereby reversing the
usual custom, which presents the public as importuning the legislator. In a
letter to Robert Jahnke, president of the First National Bank of Pasco, the
Senator says, in part:
My Dear Mr. Jahnke:
Referring further to your favor of November 15th, in regard to the
reclamation of arid lands in our state, and especially concerning the lower Snake
River project, I beg to say that I have conferred with Mr. Davis, director of
the reclamation service, regarding the matter.
They have gone no further into the project than the preliminary reports
made by Mr. Hobson and others. They have submitted estimates to Congress
calling for $100,000 for investigations in connection with regular and ordinary
irrigation development and they also have submitted an estimate of a million
dollars for investigations in the western states and elsewhere in connection
with after-the-war development and, under this if they deem it wise, they can
thoroughly investigate this project.
I shall do my best to secure ample funds for these investigations and when
the appropriation is made I shall be glad to urge the careful consideration of
this proposition by those having such investigations in charge.
I would suggest that your people get all the data possible into shape and
a full statement of the reasons why this project should be investigated and
undertaken so that the same may be submitted as soon as the appropriation is
made, if not before.
I assure you it will be a pleasure to me to do all and everj^thing in my
power to have this brought to the attention of the proper authorities. Call on
me whenever I can be of any possible assistance.
Very respectfully yours,
Wesley L. Jones."
CHAPTER V
FOUNDING AND MUNICIPAL GROWTH OF NORTH YAKIMA
MOVING THE CITY ABSTRACT OF N. P. K. R. LANDS FOR TOWNSITE OF NORTH
YAKIMA TRUSTEE PROPERTY, NORTH YAKIMA — PRESENT RESIDENTS WHO
MOVED A TOUGH PLACE AT FIRST ^THE CITY CHARTER POWERS OF THE
CORPORATION GOVERNMENT — ELECTION THE MAYOR, HIS POWERS AND
DUTIES — ^^ORDINANCES MISCELLANEOUS PROVISIONS SOME STEPS IN MUNICI-
PAL LIFE— MANY PIONEER BUILDINGS LEFT AFTER TWENTY-FIFTH BIRTHDAY
ANNIVERSARY TO KEEP OPEN HOUSE — FIRST DRUG STORE TWO FACTIONS —
AN ACT TO REMOVE COUNTY SEAT FROM YAKIMA CITY TO NORTH YAKIMA
ADVERTISEMENTS FROM "HERALD" — "TO THE READING PUBLIC" INVITATION
PARTY NORTH Y'AKIMA, ITS RAPID GROWTH AND ITS RESOURCES: FROM THE
PORTLAND "OREGONIAN"
One of the preceding chapters has given in detail the story of settlement.
The different centers, Moxee, Yakima City, Parker Bottom, Ahtanum, Selah,
Naches, Wenas, Ellensburg and vicinity, a few isolated locations in the lower
valley — had each a story of its own. It was evident, as it always is in the
development of a new country, that certain points would by a sort of natural
commercial selection come to be the location of the cities and towns. Usually
any keen observer can almost infallibly discover the location of coming com-
mercial centers. It is interesting to note that the fur traders, missionaries and
first immigrants generally "sized up" the future well enough to establish them-
selves upon the locations destined to be the city sites.
Natural conditions are the predominating factors in drawing capital to
invest and labor to seek employment and the construction arts to find a place
to exercise their inventive powers, to one certain place more than another. Not
often in history has a great city been created out of haiid by imperial ukase,
as in the case of St. Petersburg (Petrograd). Yet in founding cities there
has almost always been some strong and, sometimes a determining, human
equation.
To this and the resulting uncertainty, speculation (simply one of the many
forms of gambling) owes its basis.
It moreover frequently happens that the geography of a given region ofifers
a wide expanse in which natural conditions are essentially uniform. In such
cases it will frequently occur that "booming," or special enterprise, or sometimes
seemingly mere chance or luck will fix one immediate spot in preference to
others with apparently equal or even greater advantages. The West had fur-
nished almost countless examples of such strifes of locations. Fascinating his-
392
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 393
tory might be composed, undertaking to exhibit the course of events by which
New York rather than Philadelphia or Boston or Baltimore, became the great
city of the eastern seaboard, or why Chicago, rather than St. Louis or Cincin-
nati, or Milwaukee, became the metropolis of the Middle West.
In some cases it is obvious at a glance that some given spot is predestined
to be the foremost center of a given region. It is evident that San Francisco
had to be the chief city of California. Any other result would have been abnor-
mal. But it is obscure why Los Angeles should have become, by any natural
condition, the second city and indeed in some respects the first. We must
attribute it to the human equation. Nature made San Francisco. There could
not help being a city there. Man made Los Angeles by voluntary determination.
Obviously a great city would grow at some point on tide water on the
Columbia River, but just why the point should have been on the little Willa-
mette instead of on the broad flood of the Columbia, at Astoria or Rainier or
St. Helens, baffles commercial philosophy and throws us back upon the human
equation or mere chance.
In like manner a great world center was predestined on Puget Sound, but
why it should have settled on the rough shores of Elliott Bay in preference to
the far smoother surface ten miles north, or the seemingly more inviting harbors
where Everett or Tacoma or Bellingham are now established, does not find a
commercial or industrial reason and must be attributed to the human equation.
Some man or group of men juggled with the normal logic of development, and
Seattle became the product. There was bound to be a big city somewhere in
eastern Washington, but it is a little obscure yet, even to the people who built
the beautiful metropolis at the falls of the Spokane, why the center should not
have been either at the junction of the Snake and Clearwater or at the junction
of the Snake and Columbia. Spokane was created out of hand, almost as if
by imperial ukase, or rather by the voluntary determination of a group of wide-
awake railroad and business men.
We find somewhat the same play of forces in the metropolis of the great
valley whose story we are trying to tell in this volume.
It is quite clear even from the most superficial examination that there were
bound to be four or five leading centers in the Yakima Valley. There must be
one in the Kittitas, and it was nearly a necessity that Ellensburg be it.
There must be one somewhere near the mouth of the Yakima and it was
pretty nearly a plain case of destiny that Kennevvick fulfill that function.
There had to be at least two points in the central Valley, but here there
was a wide field open to the human equation. A chief point evidently must be
somewhere in the area where the chief tributaries, the Naches, the Ahtanum, the
Toppenish, the Simcoe, descend from the mountains with their life-giving sup-
plies for the broadened desert and join the main river. Quite possibly, if the
reservation had not been established, the leading center would have been at
the point near Mabton, where that beautiful lake-like expanse of the river, ex-
tending up and down a number of miles, would afiford all sorts of aquatic at-
tractions to the inhabitants of a city, and where the curiously carved slopes of
Snipes' Mountain might have offered even more inducement to inventive and
industrial energy than the "Nob Hill" of the present metropolis.
394 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
But it was not so to be. A series of events in which the human equation
played a great part determined that the chief city should be north of Pohotecute,
and still further that it should be at North Yakima instead of Yakima City.
MOVING THE CITY
Probably nothing has been talked about so much, first and last, in Yakima
during the past thirty-three years as moving the city from the location on the
farm of Joseph and Charles Schanno to the point known till the session of the
legislature of 1917 as North Yakima. The "City," as the pioneers aft'ectionately
termed it, seemed to be a desirable location for the town. The first stores
were established there. The first irrigation canals led there. The first hotel
in the valley was there. The first churches and schools were there. The two
locations, being but four miles apart, had essentially the same conditions, and
hence the question of moving was purely one of local or personal advantage.
The undertaking of moving from the "Old Town" to North Yakima fol-
lowed the advent of the Northern Pacific Railroad in 1884. The question of
changing the location of the townsite became complicated with that of the for-
feiture of the land grant by reason of failure to complete the railway within
the specified time.
It was still further complicated with the general question of railroad poli-
tics, at that time exciting such tremendous interest through the country. Of
these conditions we have spoken in preceding chapters.
Of the motives which led the railroad company, or men concerned with
them, to make this radical change in what seemed the normal course of events,
a writer can not make sweeping assertions. Human motives are very compli-
cated, and we can not safely dogmatize in attributing one exclusive motive to
any man. Judge Edward Whitson, one of the most honored of the builders,
and one who began his career in Yakima City, is quoted in the History of Cen-
tral Washington as maintaining that the action of the railroad company was
guided by an upright and enlightened public policy. He asserted that there
were good and sufificient reasons for establishment of a new town. "First," he
is quoted as saying, "there were three or four townsites at Yakima City and
numerous additions without uniformity; second, the townsite proprietors re-
fused to give the railroad company the necessary grounds and other facilities,
asking heavy damages : third, the old town had not convenient water and power
supply; in short, the company recognized the immense natural resources of the
territory, and desired for its metropolis a city with uniform streets, with shade
trees, ditches, power, etc. It decided that conditions in the old town were
against this comprehensive plan, hence that a new town was a necessity."
On the other hand some of the leading men of Yakima at this time believe
that selfish greed and a thirst for dictatorial power inspired the policy of the
company in using its whole force in uprooting one town and planting another.
One of Yakima's best citizens, a man who was located in the old town and
moved to the new, has told the author within a year that in his opinion there
would be twice the population if the transfer had never been made. His view
was that the action of the railroad company interrupted the normal course of
HISTORY OF YAKLMA \'ALLEY 395
growth, planted the seeds of jealousy and ill-feeling, engendered suspicion in
the minds of prospective new comers, and gave Yakima a bad name at home
and abroad.
We probably must confess that in this whole matter of the relations ot
railroad managers to the people of the region which they serve (or which they
compel to serve them) there is a good deal to be said on both sides — and let
it go at that.
The first train on the Northern Pacific Railroad reached Yakima City on
December 24, 1884. In the "Ellensburgh Standard" of January 17, 1885, are
extracts rom a private letter from Yakima City to the effect that no work was
in progress in the old town and but little in the new. The letter stated that
New Yakima consisted of Littles and Scharer's two-story restaurant with a
lean-to saloon ; a small building adjoining ; then Tucker and Cumming's livery
stable, thirty by thirty, and then another saloon.
Adjoining the restaurant on the other side was ShuU's boardinghouse tent
with sixteen guests. Across the track were the company buildings — a small
office and a very good restaurant. The letter further stated that the company
had shipped a lot of lumber to New Yakima, said to be for depot purposes ; that
the side tracks at Union Gap and Old Yakima had been taken up and pretty
much everything moved to the new town.
On February 4, 1885, a decisive step was taken. A plat of the new town
was filed for record. It seems to have been on part of a desert entrj' belonging
to Capt. W. D. Inverarity. In the belief that many of our readers would be
interested in the original conveyances of land from the railroad company, we
are incorporating here a copy of an abstract of title, for the use of which we
are indebted to Mr. Fred Parker.
ABSTR.\CT OF NORTHERN P.\CIFIC RAILRO.XD L.\NDS SET ASIDE FOR THE TOWNSITE
OF NORTH YAKIMA, WASHINGTON TERRITORY
The Northern Pacific Railroad Company hereby certifies that it is the owner
of the following named parcels of land, towit:
The east half of southeast quarter (Ej/2 of SE>4) of section thirteen (13)
in township thirteen (13) north of range eighteen (18) and the southwest
quarter of northwest quarter (SW>4 of N|WJ4) the southwest quarter of
northeast quarter (SW34 of NEJ4) and the south half (Sj4) of section nine-
teen (19) township thirteen (13) north of range nineteen (19) and east of
Willamette Meridian in Yakima County in Washington Territory; that it has
caused portions of the same, together with portions of the east half of the north-
east quarter (Ei/^ NEJ^) the east half of southeast quarter (E>4 SEj4) and
southwest quarter of northeast quarter (SW54 NE>4) of section twenty- four
(24) in township thirteen (13) north of range eighteen (18) and the south half
of the northwest quarter (S3/ NWJ4) and southwest quarter (SW^/^) of sec-
tion eighteen (18) and the north half of northwest quarter (Nj4 of NW'4)
and all the southeast quarter of northwest quarter (SEj4 of NWJ4) of section
nineteen (19) in township thirteen (13) north of range nineteen (19) all east
of the Willamette Meridian, to be surveved as the town of North Yakima and
396 HISTORY OF YAKLMA VALLEY
the annexed plat thereof to be made and that the width of all streets, avenues
and alleys thereon and the sizes of all lots and blocks are as shown on the
annexed plat by figures indicating feet and decimals of a foot and that all the
streets running parallel with the railroad are one hundred (100) feet wide ex-
cept Selah street which is sixty (60) feet wide from WesL Pine Street to West
A Street to West D Street, and excepting also Front Street which is sixty (60)
feet wide, and Xatches Avenue which is one hundred and forty (140) feet wide.
All other streets are eighty (80) feet wide, excepting Yakima Avenue,
which is one hundred ( 100) feet wide. Alleys are all twenty (20) feet in
width. All regular blocks are three hundred by four hundred (300 x 400 j feet.
Blocks A, B and C are each one hundred and eighty by four hundred
(180x400) feet.
Lots are 25x130 or 25x140 or 50 x 130 or 50x140 or 50x180 feet as
indicated on the annexed plat.
In testimony whereof the said Northern Pacific Railroad Company has
caused these presents to be signed by its president and its corporate seal to be
hereto affixed attested by its secretary, the fourteenth day of January, A. D.
1885.
N'oRTHERN Pacific R. R. Co.
By Robert Harris, President.
Attest :
S.\M P. WiLKESON, Secretary.
State of New York, City and County of New York, ss:
Be it remembered that on the fourteenth of January, A. D., 1885, before
me personally appeared Robert Harris, with whom I am personally acquainted
and who is known to me to be the president of the Northern Pacific Railroad
Company, the corporation that is described in, and that executed the foregoing
instrument, and who being by me duly sworn, said that he knows the corporate
seal of said company; that the seal affixed to the foregoing instrument as such
is said corporate seal ; that the same was affixed to the foregoing instrument by
authority of the board of directors of said company, and he signed the said
instrument by like authority. And the said Robert Harris at the same time
acknowledge the foregoing instrument to be the act and deed of the said North-
ern Pacific Railroad Company, and that the said company executed the same
freely and voluntarily for the uses and purposes therein expressed.
In witness whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and official seal at my
office in the city of New York the day and year last aforesaid.
L. R. Kidder,
Commissioner of Deeds in New York
for Territory of Wasiiington.
[seal]
I, Paul Schulze, of Portland, Oregon, trustee, hereby certify that I am
the owner in trust of the following-named parcels of land, towit:
The (E>< of NE34) east half of the northeast quarter, the east half of
southeast quarter (EJ/^ SEj4) and southwest quarter of northeast quarter
C^ .1
M
MILLER BUILDING, YAKIMA
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 397
(SW>4 NE'^) of section twenty-four (24) of township thirteen (13), north
of range eighteen (18), and the south half of the northwest quarter (Syi
NW>4) and southwest quarter (SW^) of section eighteen (18), and the north
half of northwest quarter (Nj4 NWj4). and southeast quarter of northwest
quarter (SE34 NW34) of section nineteen (19), township thirteen (13), north
of range nineteen (19), all east of the Willamette Meridian, in Yakima County,
Washington Territory : and that I have caused portions of the same, together
with the parcels of land specified in the foregoing certificate, to be surveyed as
the town of North Yakima, and the annexed plat thereof to be made, and that
the widths of all streets, avenues and alleys thereon, and the sizes of all lots and
blocks are as shown on the annexed plat by figures indicating feet and decimals
o fa foot ; and as stated in the foregoing of the Northern Pacific Railroad Com-
pany.
In witness whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and seal this 31st day of
January, A. D., 1885.
Paul Schulze,
[seal] Trustee.
Witnesses :
George P. Eaton, John G. Rusk.
State of Oregon, County of Multnomah, ss :
Be it remembered, that on this 31st day of January, A. D., 1885, before me
personally appeared Paul Schulze, trustee, to me personally known, and known
to me to be the person who executed the foregoing instrument ; and he acknowl-
edged that he executed the same freely and voluntarily . for the uses and pur-
poses therein set forth.
R. W. Mitchell,
Commissioner of Deeds in Oregon
for Washington Territory.
[seal]
Filed for record February 4th, 1885, and recorded February 29th, 1885.
Kate W. Feurbach,
County Auditor.
TRLISTEE property, north YAKIMA, WASHINGTON — R,\TIFICATI0N OF TRUSTEE
ACTS
Northern Pacific Railway Company.
Know All Men by These Presents : — That whereas, by certain indentures,
in the nature of deeds of trust, there was conveyed to Paul Schulze, city of
Portland, county of Multnomah and state of Oregon, as trustee, his assigns
and successors, certain real estate situate in the county of Yakima and state of
Washington, said indentures and real estate being more particularly described
as follows :
FIRST. A Deed of Trust dated December 16, 1884, and recorded on
December 16. 1884, and recorded on December 18, 1884, in Book "D" of Deed
Records, page 10, in the office of the auditor of said county of Yakima, by
398 HISTORY OF YAKi:\IA VALLEY
Edward Whitson to Paul Schulze as trustee, aforesaid, conveying the south half
of the southwest quarter of the southwest quarter (S^ of SW34 of SW34) of
section eighteen (18), and the north half of the northwest quarter (N^ of
NW^) of section nineteen (19) both in township (13), north of range nine-
teen (19) east of the Willamette principal meridian, containing one hundred
(100) acres, more or less, according to Government survey.
SECOND. A Deed of Trust dated December 13, 1884, and recorded Feb-
ruary 11, 1885, in Book "D" of Deed Records, page 57, in the office of the
auditor for said Yakima County by Walter J. Reed and Barbara A. Reed, his
wife, to said Schulze as trustee, aforesaid, conveying the northeast quarter of
the northeast quarter (NEJ4 of NE>4) of section twenty-four (24) in town-
ship thirteen (13), north of range eighteen (18) east Willamette meridian, con-
taining forty (40) acres, more or less, according to Government survey.
THIRD. A Deed of Trust dated December 31, 1884, and recorded Jan-
uary 2, 1885, in Book "D" of Deed Records, page 31, in the office of the auditor
for said Yakima County, by L. A. Navarre and E. E. Navarre, his wife, to said
Schulze, as trustee, aforesaid, conveying the northwest quarter of the northeast
quarter (NW^ of NEj'^) and the north half of the northeast quarter of the
northwest quarter (N>^ of NE34 of NW>^) of section thirty (30), in township
thirteen' (13), north of range nineteen (19), east Willamette meridian, contain-
ing sixty (60) acres more or less, according to Government survey.
FOURTH. A Deed of Trust, dated December 17, 1884, and recorded
December 20, 1884, in Book "D" of Deed Records, page 21, in the office of the
auditor for said Yakima County, by Rosalind H. M. Inverarity and William D.
Inverarity, her husband, to said Schulze as trustee aforesaid, conveying the
north half of the southwest quarter (N^ of SW54) and the west half of the
northwest quarter of the southeast quarter (W^ of NW34 of SEJ4) of section
eighteen (18), the southeast quarter of the northwest quarter (SE14 of NW^^)
of section nineteen (19), and the northeast quarter of the northeast quarter
(NE34 of NE14) of section thirty (30), all in township thirteen (13), north
of range nineteen (19) east Willamette meridian, containing one hundred and
seventy-seven and 50-100 (177.50) acres, more or less, according to Government
survey.
FIFTH. A Deed of Trust dated December 17, 1S84, and recorded De-
cember 20, 1884, in Book "D" of Deed Records, page 16, in the office of the
auditor for said Yakima County by William D. Inverarity and Rosalind H. M.
Inverarity, his wife, to said Paul Schultze. as trustee aforesaid, conveying the
south half of the northeast quarter (S^^ of NE^), the north half of the north-
west quarter (Nj/2 of NW^i) the southeast quarter of llie northwest quarter
(SE>4 of NWJ4) and the east half of the southeast quarter {Eyi of SE>4)
of section twenty-four (24) in township thirteen (13) north of range eighteen
(18) east of Willamette meridian, containing two hundred and eighty (280)
acres, more or less, according to Government survey; and each of said five (5)
Deeds of Trust containing the following terms and conditions, towit:
That whenever said Paul Schulze shall receive satisfactory assurances
from the Northern Pacific Railroad Company of its intention to construct its
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 399
railroad through and over said section nineteen (19), in township thirteen (13)
north of range eighteen (18), east of the Willamette meridian, and to estabhsh
a station on said section, he shall lay out and plat into lots and blocks such por-
tions of said premises, and in such manner as shall be approved by the land
commissioner of the Northern Pacific Railroad Company, and he shall convey
by good and sufifiteient deed or deeds one-half of the land so platted to the
Northern Pacific Railroad Company or to such person or corporation as the
land commissioner of said railroad company shall direct, and the remaining
one-half of such lots to the respective grantors, and in such case any portions
of said lands are not platted in lots and blocks, a division thereof shall be
made by said Schultze, and said trustee shall convey by good and sufficient deed
or deeds, one-half of said lands to the Northern Pacific Railroad Company,
or to such persons or corporation as the land commissioner of said company
may designate, and the remaining one-half of all such tracts of unplatted lands
to the respective grantors.
And whereas. All of the conditions of said trust imposed upon the grantee
hereunder, were in due course fully executed and performed by the said Paul
Schulze, as trustee, and the respective grantors aforesaid have heretofore duly
acknowledged the full execution and performance thereof, by said Schulze as
far as to them related.
And Whereas, One Thomas Cooper, of Tacoma, Pierce County, and state
Northern Pacific Railroad Company, or of the receivers of said company from
the date or dates that aforesaid real estate was conveyed to him continuously
until his death, which occurred in the month of April, 1895.
And Whereas, One Thomas Cooper, of Tacoma, Pierce County, and state
of Washington, after the demise of said Paul Schulze did become his successor
in office as the land agent of the receiver, or receivers, of said company, with
the title of western land agent.
And Whereas, Thomas Cooper, after his appointment as said western land
agent, by order and decree entered on the 11th day of November, A. D., 1895, in
the Superior Court of the state of Washington, in and for Yakima County, upon
the petition of Andrew F. Burleigh, as receiver of the said Northern Pacific
Railroad Company, and a certified copy of said order and decree being filed for
record in the office of the auditor for said county on the 21st day of November,
1895, and recorded in Volume "U" of Deed Records, page 30, was duly ap-
pointed as trustee, and legal successor of said Paul Schulze, deceased, trustee,
and was duly vested with the same rights and all of the powers as to making
conveyances of any and all of said lands as were vested in said Paul Schulze,
trustee, in and by said indentures and conveyances and rot exercised by said
Schulze prior to the time of his death.
And Whereas, the said Thomas Cooper, after his appointment as the legal
successor of said Paul Schulze, trustee, and said Paul Schulze after the con-
veyance to him of said real estate from time to time up to the date of his death
aforesaid, had made and executed and did make and execute, as such trustee,
respectively, certain indentures thereby conveying to a number of different
individuals or concerns, respectively, certain portions of the lands described in
400 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
said deeds of trust, either as broad acres or in lots and blocks, of the plat of the
town of North Yakima.
And Whereas, any and all conveyances made by said Paul Schulze, as such
trustee, and by said Thomas Cooper, as such trustee, of any portion or portions
of the said real estate were made under and by virtue of the direction or direc-
tions of the land commissioner, for the time being, of the said Northern Pacific
Railroad Company, or of its receiver or receivers, and said conveyances were
made with the knowledge, consent, acquiescence and approval of the land com-
missioner aforesaid
And Whereas, no formal instrument has been placed of record in the audi-
tor's office, for said county of Yakima, showing the approval and acquiescence
by the land commissioner aforesaid, of the conveyances made by said trustees,
as aforesaid.
And Whereas, by certain deed dated the 18th day of August. 1896, and
recorded in the office of the auditor for said county of Yakima, Alfred L. Cary,
as special master, did convey to the Northern Pacific Railway Company, a cor-
poration, duly incorporated under the laws of the state of Wisconsin, all of the
right, title and interest of the said Northern Pacific Railroad Company, in and
to aforesaid real estate and also certain deeds were recorded in the office of the
auditor for said county of Yakima, having for their object the conveyance of
all property of said Northern Pacific Railroad Company to said Northern Pacific
Railway Company.
Now Therefore, This Indenture Witnesseth, That in consideration of the
premises the said Northern Pacific Railway Company, a corporation duly in-
corporated under the laws of the state of Wisconsin, as the legal successor and
present owner of all the right and title, both legal and equitable, heretofore
vested in Paul Schulze as trustee, and Thomas Cooper, as trustee, and the said
Northern Pacific Railroad Company, which was acquired by virtue of the afore-
said conveyances to Paul Schulze, as trustee, does hereby ratify, approve and
confirm the making of each and all of said conveyances of said premises, or
any portion or portions thereof, by the said Paul Schulz as such trustee, and
the said Thomas Cooper as such trustee.
In Witness Whereof. The said Northern Pacific Railway Company has
caused these presents to be sealed with its corporate ^eal and signed by its
president, on this the twelfth day of February, in the year of our Lord one
thousand eight hundred and ninety-eight.
Northern Pacific Railway Company.
C. S. Mellen, President.
Attest :
W. H. GiMMELL, Assistant Secretary.
[corporate seal]
Sealed and deli\ered in the presence of
Richard B. Jones.
Harry A. Fabian.
(I. R. S. 10 cts.)
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 401
State of IMinnesota, County of Ramsey, ss:
On this thirteenth day of October, 1898, before me personally appeared
C. S. Mellen, to me personally known, who being by me duly sworn, did say
that he is the president of the Northern Pacific Railway Company, the corpora-
tion, which executed the foregoing instrument, and that tlie seal affixed to said
instrument is the corporate seal of said corporation, and that said instrument
was signed and sealed in behalf of said corporation by authority of its board
of directors, and said C. S. Mellen acknowledged said instrument to be free
act and deed of said corporation.
In Witness Whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and affixed my official
seal at my office in the city of St. Paul, the day and year last aforesaid.
P. W. CORBETT,
Notary Public, Ramsey County, Minnesota.
A. B. Flint, County Auditor.
[n. p. seal]
Deeds on page 616.
It appears from the history derived from several prominent citizens of
Yakima of the present date who were of the immigrants from Yakima City to
North Yakima thirty-three years ago, that the chief agents in planning and
executing the removal were Robert Harris, president of the Nbrthern Pacific
Railroad Company, Paul Schulze, manager of the land sy.stem of the company,
and Martin Van Buren Stacy. It is a curious fact that of the three men who
engineered the founding of North Yakima one (Mr. Stacy) died in an insane
asylum, and another, Mr. Schulze, died by his own hand.
But during the first years of their activity in the "New Town" they
pushed matters with great energy and rapidity. H. K. Owens, of Seattle was
employed as an engineer to lay out the new town. This work was accomplished
in 1885. A ditch was constructed to convey water from the river to the streets
of the city. Whatever may have been true of Mr. Schulze morally, he had an
artistic eye and a clear conception of how a town should be built. The new
Yakima was laid out somewhat on the general plan of Mr. Schulze's native
Baden-Baden. Naches Avenue, now regarded by tourists as one in the front
rank of residence streets in American cities, was laid out after the pattern of
the Unter den Linden in that beautiful German city.
But founding of the New Town was one thing. Moving the Old Town
was another. The railroad company ofTered lots to all who would move. That
seemed a fair proposal, but with characteristic pioneer spunk the old town
people — many of them — repudiated that indirect manner of bribing them to
throw up their hands. Judge R. B. Milroy, who was there at the time, describes
to us something of the excited meetings and discussions which occurred. He
speaks particularly of one public meeting addressed by Mr. P. J. Flint and
others, at which the war sentiment was at fever heat. But following this was
another meeting somewhat milder, at which the proposal was adopted that a
committee of three men go to New York to lay the whole matter before the
directors of the railroad company. J. B. Reavis, J. M. Adams and A. B. Weed
(26)
402 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
were appointed on this commission, and they seem to have executed it with
success. At any rate they induced the company to meet the expense of moving
such residents of the old town as were willing to accept the former offer of a
lot in the new town in lieu of their former holdings in the old. This offer on
the part of the company seems as liberal as any could be, if they were going to
move at all. The process of moving went on rapidly during the Summer and
Fall of 1885. Very entertaining and sometimes amusing accounts are given by
the old-timers of scenes on the four-mile highway while the process of moving
was in progress. Business was carried on as usual while the buildings were on
the move. A farmer wishing to buy something at a store would hitch his team
to the latter end of a moving building, transact his business, come out with his
purchases, load his wagon, while the team followed slowly along with the build-
ing. The Guilland Hotel, owned by David Guilland, was the first structure to
take the journey. Much bitterness was felt that Mr. Guilland should have given
up the fight and taken the journey. It is reported that some threats were made
and that he deemed it wise to have a guard over his migratory property. Never-
theless his boarders took their regular meals en route in quiet. The First
National Bank building went soon, and a regular procession followed.
As to the first buildings established in their new home, and as to the first
ones erected in North Yakima, there does not seem to be perfect unanimity. It
is said that Weed and Rowe started a building on the site of the present Yakima
National Bank, soon after the filing of the town-plat and had it ready for use
by April 1st. Allen and Chapman opened a drug store in the same month on
the northwest corner of Yakima Avenue and Second Street. It is stated that
Mr. C. E. McEwen was the first of all now living in Yakima to enter business
in the new town. He had come to Yakima City in 1872. He was among the
vrst to move to the new town and established a harness and saddle business in
1883 at the present location of the Dean dry goods store. There he remained
until June 1, 1903, when he came to his present location. Among the other
earliest business places established during that first year of North Yakima's
existence may be named the following: Henry Ditter & Sons, T. G. V. Clark,
Hymen Harris, McCrimmon, Needham and Masters, and G. W. Gary, general
merchandise stores ; Ward Brothers, grocery and shoe store ; S. J. Lowe, hard-
ware; Schisthl and Schorn, blacksmithing.
PRESENT RESIDENTS WHO MOVED
By the kind assistance of Mr. Fred Parker we are able to give here a list
of those now living in Yakima who moved from the old town to the new.
Charles M. Adkins. Mrs. Dora Churchill.
Frank Bartholet. James R. Coe.
Mrs. Mary C. Bartholet Joseph E. Ditter.
Irvin Bounds Henry Ditter.
P. A. Bounds. Phil A. Ditter
Mrs. Lou Goodwin Butt Purdy J. Flint.
Mrs. Emily J. Chambers. Mrs. Katie A. Gervais.
HISTORY OF YAKLMA VALLEY " 403
Wesley F. Jones. A. B. Weed.
John A. Leach. Mrs. Meta RedfieJd.
S. J. Lowe. Richard Strobach
Mrs. Emma P. Mabry. Martin Schisthl
Elisha McDaniel. Michael Schom and wife.
C. E. McEwen. Frank B. Shardlow.
R. B. Milroy. Jennie P. Shardlow.
Fred Parker. Mrs. Mary E. Stephenson.
A. J. Pratt.
In 1885 North Yakima was made the terminus of the railroad. Trains did
not stop at the old town. This action was very unsatisfactory to the recal-
citrant old residents who had refused to move, and litigation resulted.
The suit to compel the railroad to make stops at Yakima City finally went
to the Supreme Court and in 1892 that august tribunal issued a decree granting
an injunction to that effect.
The new town grew rapidly. It is estimated that by January 1, 1886, there
were about 1,200 people in the place.
A TOUGH; PLACE AT FIRST
The ragged, dusty Yakima of 1886 and onward for a few years was very
different from the elegant and high-class metropolis of 1918. It was by no
means a dry town. There were many consuming thirsts and the facilities of
gratifying them were not limited either by law or usage. The roulette wheel
was a prominent industry, and money changed hands with no very great regard
to the moral law or court judgment. There was talk of a vigilance committee,
such as had proved quite efficient in Walla Walla twenty years earlier. But
as a result of a mass meeting a provisional government became established, for
the financial support of which various citizens pledged various . sums, the aim
of which was to maintain law and order until such time as a legal government
could be established. Col. H. D. Cock, one of the best known of the early
comers, having been in the Yakma country during the period of Indian wars
thirty years before, became the first marshal, and he proved very efficient, quell-
ing the law-breakers with a strong hand and laying a foundation of good gov-
ernment which stood the raw young city in good stead. I( is remembered by
old-timers that Colonel Cock set out most of the trees on Naches Avenue and
otherwise improved that well conceived avenue, making the necessary basis for
what has become such an ornament to the modern Yakima.
THE CITY CHARTER
It having become clear to the citizens of the ambitious young town that
there was sure to be a city, and also the railroad company having fostered the
plat and plan which appear in the abstract in earlier pages, it was clear that the
next important stage in growth would be a charter and a municipal govern-
ment. Steps were taken to secure such an organization at a public meeting in
the Fall of 1885.
404 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
As the outcome of the meeting a constitution was drafted by Edward Whit-
son and Judge Graves. This was granted by the Legislature of 1886. The bill
providing it was passed on January 27th of that year. By it North Yakima was
duly chartered as a city of the second class. Although that first charter has
been superseded, it presents so much of permanent interest that we incorporate
a considerable part of it into our story at this stage.
TO INCORPORATE THE CITY OF NORTH YAKIMA AND TO PARTICULARLY DEFINE THE
POWERS THEREOF
Chapter I
Be it enacted by the Legislative Assembly of the Territory of Washington:
Sec. 1. That the corporate limits of the city of Nijrth Yakima shall in-
clude the following legal subdivisions of land, towit : All of section nineteen
(19), township thirteen (13) north, range nineteen (19) east, save and except
the east half of the northeast quarter of said section nineteen (19) and all of
the southwest quarter and the south half of the northwest quarter of section
eighteen (18), township thirteen (13) north, range nineteen (19) east, and all
of the southeast quarter of section thirteen (13), township thirteen (13) north,
range eighteen fl8) east, and all of the east half of section twenty-four (24),
township thirteen (13) north, range eighteen (18) east.
Sec. 2. The inhabitants within the city of Nprth Yakima are hereby con-
stituted and declared to be a municipal corporation by the name and style of the
"City of North Yakima," and by that name shall have perpetual succession, and
may sue or be sued, plead or be impleaded in all courts of justice, contract and
be contracted with, and have and use a common seal and alter the same at
pleasure.
Chapter II
POWERS OF THE CORPORATION
Sec. 3. The city of North Yakima has power to assess, levy and collect
taxes for general municipal purposes, not to exceed one-half per centum upon
all property, both real and personal within the city, which is by the law taxable
for territorial and county purposes, and to levy and collect special taxes as
hereinafter provided, but all taxes for general and special municipal purposes
shall not exceed in any one year one per centum on the property assessed:
Provided, however. That the above limitations shall not r.pply to local assess-
ments in assessment districts.
Sec. 4. The city of North Yakima shall have power to make regulations
for prevention of accidents by fire; to organize and establish fire departments
and shall have control thereof, and ordain rules for government of same; to
provide fire engines and other apparatus and a sufficient supply of water, and
to levy and collect special taxes for these purposes, not to exceed in any year
three-tenths of one per centum upon the taxable property within the city, and
on petition of the owners of one-half of the ground included within any pre-
scribed limits within the city, to proliibit the erection within such limits of any
building, or any addition to any building, unless the outer walls thereof be made
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 405
of brick and mortar and iron, or stone and mortar, and to provide for the re-
moval of any building, or any addition erected contrary to such prohibition.
Sec. 5. The city of North Yakima may regulate and provide as to the
manner in which all lands and additions to the city shall be subdivided into lots,
blocks, streets and alleys and the width, distance apart and direction of each
street and alley and the manner in which a plat shall be made thereof, and
where filed and the kind of monuments in all parts of the city, and place and
manner of erection and maintenance thereof, to prevent mistakes and confusion
of boundaries, and may cause an official map of said city to be made and kept
for public inspection, which plat, certified by the city surveyor, shall be prima
facie evidence that the lines as they thereon appear are correct, and all surveys
made by the city surveyor whatever at the instance and expense of the city or
private parties, shall be official surveys, and a minute thereof shall be kept by
the city surveyor as a part of his ofifiicial record, and shall be prima facie evi-
dence of their own correctness, and the city has power to enforce this by ordi-
nance and to compel the establishment and maintenance of such monument, and
to fine or imprison, or both, for a violation thereof, and when the boundary or
existence of any public street, alley, easement or square is in doubt and the land
claimed by a private party, the city may file a bill in eriuity to determine the
right thereto.
Sec. 6. The city of North Yakima has power to purchase or condemn
and enter upon and take any lands within or without its territorial limits for
public squares, streets, parks, commons, cemeteries, hospital grounds, or to be
used for work-houses or houses of correction, or any other proper and legiti-
mate municipal purpose, and to inclose, ornament and improve the same, and to
erect necessary public buildings thereon, and for these purposes may levy and
collect special taxes, not exceeding one-fifth of one per cent, in any one year.
The city shall have entire control of such buildings, and all lands purchased or
condemned under the provisions of this section, and of all streets, highways,
squares, and other public grounds within its limits, established or appropriated
to public use by authority of law, or which have been or may hereafter be dedi-
cated to public use by any person or persons, and has power to regulate and
improve the same, and in case such lands are deemed unsuitable or insufficient
for the purposes intended, to dispose of and convey the same ; and conveyances
of such property, executed in the manner that may be prescribed by ordinance,
shall be held to extinguish all rights and claims of said city or the public exist-
ing prior to such conveyance, but when such lands are so disposed of and
conveyed, enough thereof shall be reserved for streets to accommodate adjoin-
ing property owners.
Sec. 7. The city of North Yakima has power to provide for the lighting
of the streets and furnishing the city with lights, and for the erection or con-
struction of such works as may be necessary and convenient therefor, and has
power to levy and collect for these objects a special tax, not exceeding one-fifth
of one per centum per annum, upon the taxable property within the limits of
the city, for the benefit of such lights.
Sc. 8. The city of North Yakima shall have power to provide for clear-
ing, opening, vacating, graveling, improving and repairing of streets, highways
406 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
and aljeys, to gutter the same and to construct and repair sidewalks and build
bridges, and for the prevention and removal of all obstruction therefrom, or
from any cross or sidewalks, also to regulate cellarways, and cellar lights, or
sidewalks within the city, and to provide for clearing the streets, and establish-
ing the grade thereof ; also for constructing sewers and cleaning and repairing
the same, and have power to assess, levy and collect each year a road poll tax
of not less than "two nor more than six dollars on every male inhabitant of the
city between the ages of twenty-one and fifty years, except actual and exempt
members of the fire department, and persons that are a public charge, also a
special tax on property of not less than two, nor more than six mills on every
dollar's worth of property within the city, which taxes shall be expended for
the purposes specified in this section, and there shall not be levied or collected
by the county of Yakima or the officers thereof, any road tax or road poll tax
upon the property or inhabitants within said city.
Sec. 9. The city of North Yakima shall have power to cause any person
to keep his property or the property he occupies or controls, and the adjacent
streets and alleys, clean and free from anything dangerous to health, or offen-
sive to the sense, or dangerous to travelers, and to keep said streets and alleys
free from inflammable material, and to cause owners of public halls and other
buildings to provide suitable means of exit, to abate all nuisances and provide
for the public safety.
Sec. 10. The city of North Yakima is hereby authorized to grant the
right to use the streets of said city for the purposes of laying gas and other
pipes intended to fiirnish the inhabitants of said city with light or water to any
person or association of persons for a term not exceeding twenty-five years,
and to authorize or forbid the location and laying down of tracks for railways
and street railways, telegraph or telephone appliances on all streets, alleys and.
public places, but no railway track can thus be located and laid down until
after the injury to streets, alleys and to property abutting upon the street, alley
or public place upon which such track is proposed to be located and laid down,
has been ascertained and compensated in the manner provided for conipensatioi'
of injuries arising from re-grade of streets in section 99 of this act.
Sec. 11. The city of North Yakima shall have power to erect and mai.
tain water-works within or without the city limits or to authorize the erection
of the same for the purpose of furnishing the city or the inhabitants thereof
with a sufficient supply of water, and for the purpose of maintaining and pro-
tecting the same from injury and the water from pollution its jurisdiction shall
extend over the territory occupied by such works and all reservoirs, streams,
springs, trenches, pipes and drains used in and necessary for the construction,
maintenance and operation of the same, and over the stream or source from
which the water is taken for five miles above the point from which it is taken,
and to enact all ordinances and regulations necessary to carry the power herein
conferred into effect, but no water-works shall be erected by the city until a
majority of the voters, who shall be those only who are freeholders in the city
or pay a property tax therein on not less than five hundred dollars' worth of
property, shall at a general or special election vote for the same. Such proposi-
tion shall be formulated and submitted not less than thirty days before election.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY' 407
Sec. 12. Said city is hereby authorized and empowered to condemn and
appropriate so much private property as shall be necessary tor the construction
and operation of such water-works, and shall have power to purchase or con-
demn water-works already erected or which may be erected, and may mort-
gage or hypothecate the same to secure to the persons from whom the same
may be purchased the payment of the purchase price thereof. Said city shall
have power to regulate and sell the water thus brought threin and the moneys
arising therefrom shall constitute a fund, to be used to defray the expenses of
operating the same and to pay the purchase price thereof, and said city may levy
and collect a special tax each year until the necessity therefor ceases to exist,
not to exceed two-tenths of one per centum: Provided, however. No such tax
shall be levied or collected until the question has been submitted, as provided in
section eleven (11) of this act to electors as therein named and a majority thereof
at any annual or Special election shall favor the same.
Sec. 13. The city of North Yakima shall have power to provide for, and
by ordinance adopt, such a system of sewerage as may be needed, but no moneys
shall be expended for pipes, mains or laterals, to be used therefor, until the
system proposed, and the cost thereof, has been ascertained and submitted for
ratification or rejection to the qualified electors, as prescribed in section eleven
of this act at an annual or special election, and the expenditure therefor be
authorized by a majority of such voters: Provided, That this section shall not
prohibit construction of sewers under chapter ten of this act.
Sec. 14. The city of North Yakima shall have the power to make regula-
tions, to prevent the introduction and spread of contagious diseases in the city ;
to remove persons affected with such or other diseases therefrom to suitable
hospitals provided by the city for that purpose, and to provide for their support
during their sickness only, and provide that solvent persons and their estates
shall pay for the expenses of keeping them in such hospital: Provided, however,
That persons shall not be removed from their own home without their consent,
but the city may quarantine any house wherein a contagious disease exists, or
the whole city.
Sec. 15. The city of North Yakima shall have power to make regulations
and pass ordinances preventing domestic and other animals from running at
large within the city limits, and restrain, impound and forfeit such animals,
and may sell the same when forfeited, and apply the proceeds as it deems
expedient, and in the case of dogs may cause them to be destroyed or sold when
they are found running at large without license, and also may impose a license
tax on dogs within the city.
Sec. 16. The city of North Yakima shall have power to regulate, license
and tax all carts, drays, wagons, carriages, coaches and omnibuses and other
vehicles kept for hire, and to fix the rates thereof, to license, tax and regulate
or prohibit the auctioneers, hawkers, peddlers, and pawnbrokers ; to license, tax,
regulate, prohibit and restrain drinking saloons and places where beer and
other beverages are sold or disposed of in less quantities than one gallon. No
license for the sale of liquors shall be issued for a less license than provided
408 HISTORY OF YAKIAIA VALLEY
by the general laws of the territory: Provided, however, That no license shall
be required of apothecaries or druggists for the sale of wine, spirits, or malt
liquors for medical purposes only, when prescribed by regular practicing physi-
cians ; to license, tax, or prohibit and regulate wash-houses, slaughter-houses,
and abattoirs : Provided, That no tax shall be imposed, or license required for
sale inside of said city of any of the natural products of the country, when sold
by the producer, nor shall any regulation be adopted contravening any existing
law of the territory.
Sec. 17. The city of North Yakima has power to establish and maintain
a day and night police, which shall consist of the marshal and his deputies, and
to regulate their number, pay and duties.
Sec. 18. The city of North Yakima shall have power to prohibit, regulate
or restrain houses of ill-fame, or gambling houses and to authorize the destruc-
tion of gaming devices, opium and opium smoking devices, to prohibit and
restrain and abate disorderly houses ; to regulate the transportation and keeping
of gunpowder and other combustibles, and to provide for magazines for the
keeping thereof, and license and tax such keeping and punish any violation of
such regulation by fine, imprisonment or forfeiture of the gunpowder or com-
bustible kept or transported contrary to such regulations; to regulate the speed
and manner in which animals or vehicles of all kinds, including locomotives or
cars, shall be driven or allowed to run through the streets of the city ; to prevent
riots, assaults, assaults and batteries or afifrays, noisy or disorderly assemblies
within said city, and to prevent the maintenance of anythir.g which is annoying,
offensive or unhealthy, whatever its nature, and to prevent all other acts which
are misdemeanors at common law or by the statutes of Washington Territory,
and may punish violations of the provisions of this section as provided in
section twentj-one.
Sec. 19. The city of North Yakima shall have power to regulate the burial
of the dead, and to prevent any interments within the limits of the city, and
cause any body interred contrary to such prohibition to be taken up and buried
without the limits of the city, and have full jurisdiction over all cemeteries
belonging to the city, whether within or without the city limits, and of the walks
and ways leading from the city to such cemeteries, and power to regulate,
improve and protect the same in all respects, and to punish, by fine and impris-
onment, as provided in section twenty-one (21), any violation of ordinances
in respect to the same.
Sec. 20. The city of North Yakima shall have power to establish and
regulate markets; to provide for the measuring or weighing of hay, coal, wood
or other articles.
Sec. 2L The city of North Yakima shall have power to adopt proper
ordinances for the government of the city, and to carry into effect the powers
given by this act, and to provide for the punishment of a violation of any ordi-
nance of the city by a fine, not exceeding three hundred dollars and costs, or by
imprisonment not exceeding thirty (30) days, or by both such fine and impris-
onment, and in case of default of the payment of such fine E.nd costs, shall have
power to imprison not to exceed one day for every two dollars, and such fine
HISTORY OF YAKIMA \'ALLEY 409
and costs may also be collected by execution against the property of the defend-
ant, and when so collected shall be credited on the judgment, and any person,
while imprisoned as aforesaid, shall be compelled to work during the time he
is so imprisoned, at such hard labor as the marshal shall direct.
Sec. 22. The city of North Yakima shall have power to establish and reg-
ulate the fees and compensation of all its officers except when otherwise pro-
vided, and have such other powers and privileges, not here specifically enumer-
ated, as are incident to municipal corporations.
Sec. 23. The city of North Yakima shall have power to acquire by pur-
chase or otherwise water-ditches for irrigation, domestic or other purposes,
and may acquire title to all ditches now constructed within the corporate limits
of said city, and the same when so acquired are to be held forever by said city
for the inhabitants of said city for their use for such purposes, said city to reg-
ulate and control the use thereof and said city may acquire by purchase or
otherwise a sufficient quantity of water and convey the same in said ditches for
any or all of such purposes.
Sec. 24. The city of North Yakima shall have power to make, erect and
construct through its streets, alleys or highways, or through any of its public
parks or grounds, water-ditches for irrigation and for domestic or other purposes,
and shall have full control thereof, and said city may take, appropriate and use
water for any or all such purposes and conduct the same through any ditches
by it constructed, and may make such regulations by ordinance for the control
of such ditches and the water therein and the use thereof by the inhabitants
of said city as may be deemed proper.
Sec. 25. The city of North Yakima shall have power to cause to be planted
upon the streets or public grounds of said city, shade or ornamental trees and
to protect the same, and to impose by ordinance fines for destruction or injury
thereof : Provided, Said city shall not expend more than five hundred dollars
($500) for such purpose in any one year: And further provided, That the city
council may by vote as upon an ordinance cause such expenditure to be made;
all sums so expended to come from the general fund of the city.
Sec. 26. The city of North Yakima shall have power to regulate the man-
ner of planting of trees upon the streets and have full control thereof, and may
regulate planting of trees, the places and the kind of trees planted upon its
streets, and may protect and control all trees now or hereafter planted upon
its streets w-ithin its corporate limits, and for such purpose may pass ordinances
providing for fine or imprisonment in amount as in section 21 of this act.
Chapter III
government
Sec. 27. The powers and authority hereby given lo the city of North
Yakima by this act, shall be vested in a mayor and council, together with such
other officers as are in this act mentioned, or may be created under its authority.
Sec. 28. The council shall consist of seven (7) members. They shall be
elected for one year, and shall hold their offices until their successors are elected
and qualified.
410 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Sec. 29. The mayor shall be elected for one year and shall hold office until
his successor is elected and qualified.
Sec. 30. There shall be elected as hereinafter specified a justice of the
peace, marshal, clerk, attorney, treasurer, street commissioner, sexton and such
other officers as may become necessary for the due execution of the powers
herein conferred. The officers enumerated in this section shall be elected by
the council annually, at a meeting to be designated by them after the qualification
of the members of the council. Such election shall be by ballot. The justice
of the peace so selected shall be one of the justices of the peace duly elected
under the laws of Washington Territory, in and for the precinct in which said
city is located, and while acting in city m.atters may hold his office for that pur-
pose anywhere within the city. Such justice of the peace shall have jurisdiction
over all crimes defined by any ordinance of the city and of all other actions
brought to enforce or recover any penalty, forfeiture declared or given by any
such ordinance, and full power and authority to hear and determine all causes,
civil or criminal, arising under such ordinance and to pronounce judgment in
accordance therewith. All civil or criminal proceedings before such justice of
the peace under and by authority of this act, shall be governed and regulated
by the general laws of this territory relating to justices of the peace, and to
their practice and jurisdiction, and shall be subject to reviev/ in the district court
of the proper district by certiorari or appeal the same as in other cases. All
officers elected by the council are subject to removal by that body at any time
for cause deemed by them sufficient. The council may appoint any time a per-
son to fill any one of the above named offices whenever the incumbent thereof
is temporarly absent or sick or unable for any cause to act. Such appointment
shall, however, cease whenever the disability is removed and in case the term
of office of the city justice shall expire under territorial law, the council may at
any time fill the vacancy. The salary of none of such officers shall be increased
or diminished during the term for which they were elected or appointed.
Chapter IV
ELECTION
Sec. 31. There shall be a general election for mayor, and members of the
council on the second Monday of May of every year, and until the first general
election the following officers are hereby appointed to serve until their suc-
cessors are elected and qualified, and with power to appoint temporarily all
other necessary officers authorized by this act, to wit : Mayor, Edward Whitson ;
Councilmen, T. J. V. Clark, J. W. Shull, T. J. Redfield, David Guilland. A. B.
Weed, O. Hinman and S. J. Lowe; and said mayor and councilmen may, upon
ten days' notice by the mayor, hold their first meeting to organize said city gov-
ernment as provided herein.
Ch.\pter VII
THE MAYOR — HIS POWERS AND DUTIES
Sec. 54. The mayor is the chief executive officer of the corporation; and
shall have power to communicate with the council at any time concerning the
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 411
condition and state of affairs of the corporation, and recommend such measures
as he may deem expedient and proper; has the power of veto and the power
to pardon or commute any sentence for the violation of any ordinance. The
mayor shall sign all warrants ordered drawn on the city treasury.
Sec. 55. The mayor shall approve all bonds or undertakings, official or
those which may be required by ordinance, or by any contract entered into by
the corporation with private individuals. He shall report the same to the
council at the next regular meeting thereof, and if disapproved by that body
the same shall be void.
Sec. 56. He shall perform such other duties and exercise such other
■uthority as may be prescribed by this act, any city ordmance or any law of
the United States or of this territory.
Sec. 57. Any ordinance which shall have passed the council shall, before
it becomes a law, be presented to the mayor for his approval. If he approves,
he shall sign it; if not, he shall at the next regular meeting return it with his
objections in writing to the council, who shall cause the same to be entered in
the journal, and shall proceed to reconsider the same; if after such reconsidera-
tion five-sevenths of the members of the council shall agree to pass the same,
it shall become the law.
Sec. 58. During any temporary absence of the mayor from the city, or if
he be unable for any reason to act, the council shall elect one of their own mem-
bers, who shall be the acting mayor and perform all the duties of such office,
during such temporary absence or inability.
Chapter IX
ORDINANCES
Sec. 75. The style of every ordinance shall be "The City of North Yakima
does ordain as follows." No ordinance shall contain more than one subject,
which shall be clearly expressed in the title, and when only a section of an
ordinance is repealed, the repealing ordinance shall specify particularly what
section is to be repealed by repealing it, but when the whole ordinance is to
be repealed, it shall be sufficient to name it by title and number.
Sec 76. All ordinances shall, as soon as may be after their passage, be
recorded in a book kept for that purpose, and be authenticated by the signature
of the presiding officer and the clerk, and all those of a general or permanent
character, and those imposing any fine, penalty or forfeiture, shall be published
in a newspaper doing the city printing, and it shall be a sufficient defense to any
suit or prosecution of such fine, penalty or forfeiture, to show that such publica-
tion was not made, and no such ordinance shall take effect and be in force until
the expiration of five days after it has been published.
Sec. 77. All the courts of the Territory of Washington, holding terms in
said city shall take judicial knowledge of the ordinances of said city, and after
an ordinance has been passed six days, courts shall presume that the same has
been duly published five days, unless the contrary be affirmatively established.
412 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Chapter XII
RfiSCELLANEOUS PROVISIONS
Sec. 93. The city of Xbrth Yakima is not bound by any contract, or in any
way liable thereon, unless the same is authorized by a city ordinance and made
in writing by order of the council, signed by the clerk or some other person on
behalf of the city. But an ordinance may authorize any officer or agent of
the city, naming him, to bind the city without a contract in writing for the pay-
ment of any sum of money not exceeding one hundred dollars.
Sec. 94. No money shall be drawn from the city treasury but in pursu-
ance of an appropriation for that purpose, made by an ordinance ; and an ordi-
nance making an appropriation of money must not contain a provision upon
any other subject: Provided always, That when a fund has been created to be
expended for a certain purpose, the council may, from time to time, direct pay-
ments to be made therefrom for such purposes without ordinance.
Sec. 95. The fiscal year of the city shall commence on the first day of
May and end on the last day of April of each year.
Sec. 96. In any action, suit or proceedings in any court, concerning any
assessment of property or levy of taxes authorized by this act or the collection
of any such tax, or proceeding consequent thereon, such assessment, levy, con-
sequent proceeding and all proceedings connected therewith shall be presumed
to be regular and duly taken until the contrarj' is shown ; and when any pro-
ceeding, matter or thing is by this act committed or left to the discretion of the
council, such discretion or judgment, when exercised, or declared, is final and
cannot be reviewed or called in question elsewhere.
Sec. 97. The city council may divide the city into not less than three nor
more than seven wards, and shall apportion the members of the city council to
be elected in each, and provide places for holding elections in each and appoint
ofificers for conducting the same.
Sec. 98. When the grade or boundaries of any street has been once legal-
ly established, such grade or boundary shall not be changed without indemnify-
ing each person injured by such change, and the amount of compensation shall
be determined as in other cases when private property is taken for the use of
the city, and the city of North Yakima may exercise the right of eminent do-
main, to take any private property for any use of the city, embraced within any
of the objects or purposes of this act.
Sec. 99. In all cases where private property is condemned or taken for
public use, by authority of this act, the city shall pay a fair compensation there-
for to the owners of such property, and when such owners and the city council
are unable to agree as to the amount of such compensation, the same shall be
assessed and determined in the manner provided by the general laws of this-
Territory, relating to the mode of proceeding to appropriate lands by private
corporations.
Sec. 100. This act is hereby declared a public act.
Sec. 101. Whenever an addition to said city shall be platted and recorded'
in the of¥i;ce of the county auditor of Yakima County as required by law. them
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 413
and in that case the city of North Yakima shall have power by ordinance to in-
clude such addition within the corporate limits thereof: Provided always. That
such addition is joined to the already established boundaries of said city.
Sec. 102. The limit of indebtedness of the city of North Yakima is
hereby fixed at ($10,000) ten thousand dollars.
Sec. 103. This act is to take effect from and after its passage and ap-
proval.
Approved January 27, 1886.
SOME STEPS IN MUNICIPAL LIFE
Out of the vast mass of historv' available in the files of the local press and
in the memories of citizens, we shall tr}' to give in the remainder of this chap-
ter, a few of the leading steps. We have seen already the generous scale on
which the city was laid out. Water was running in the canals on each side of
the principal streets, a beginning of planting of shade trees was made, and by
1888 North Yakima was already beginning to forecast something of the beauty
which now is her deserving portion.
An article taken from a local paper in 1910 gives a view of the buildings
existing at that date which were put up in the year of the birth of the city
twenty-five years before. We are sure that many readers will be glad to see
this, and we incorporate it here.
MANY PIONEER BUILDINGS LEFT THOUGH NORTH YAKIMA HAS NOW .\TTAINED
ITS TWENTY-FIFTH BIRTHDAY ANNIVERSARY EARLY-DAY STRUCTURES
SHOULD BE PLACARDED — RESIDENCE OF W. L. LEMON WAS ON THE
GROUND BEFORE THIS CITY HAD AN EXISTENCE OR A PEOPLE
The famous First National Bank building which came up from old town
twenty-five years ago, doing business all the way, still exists to take part in the
celebration today. It has either gone up or down in the social scale, as one
judges from a commercial or an artistic standpoint. It is doing present duty
as the Ideal Theatre. It stood on the corner of Yakima and Second until 1888
when it was moved to make way for the present bank building.
The frame building squeezed in between more pretentious brick and stone
structures, occupied by T. G. Redfield in the first block east on the avenue, is
as much a pioneer as its occupant. The house between Fourth and Naches,
occupied by C. M. Hauser, was the St. Elizabeth's Hospital of the early days.
The old Guilland Hotel, which was one of the buildings to make the exodus,
has disappeared and given place to the Mullins Building.
OLD CHURCHES
The old Presbyterian Church, now tacked on to the -tone edifice which has
replaced it, the old Christian Church, now the armory, and the old Catholic
Church, latterly used as a boys' school and now being torn down that the Mar-
quette College is completed, came up from old town.
414 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
The house now occupied by Postmaster W. L. Lemon is on the site of the
Robert Beck homestead which covered a good part of the present North Yakima
and was here before North Yakima existed. The kitchen and the servant's
bedroom of the Lemon house comprised the original shack. Mr. Lemon says
that he has heard Robert Beck tell that there used to be a sheep corral across
the road from his place, where the herders would put their sheep for the night,
coming in from the hills. The cookstove in the Beck shack was a hospitable
one and the herders used to fry their bacon and boil their cofYee there. Mr.
Beck used to tell how the dogs would howl and yelp all night because the coyotes
were trying to get at the sheep.
TO KEEP OPEN HOUSE
Mr. Lemon says that owing to the historical interest attaching to his
home, he will keep open house, so that all who wish may see the old kitchen.
Judge Edward Whitson lived in the place for some years.
It has been suggested that it would be a matter of interest, especially to
the many newcomers here, if the people occupying the houses or buildings
which came up from Old Town when North Yakima was started, 'placard them
for the day so that all who run may recognize them as pioneer buildings.
The house directly back of the present Catholic Church is an old-timer. It
used to belong to Mr. Chapell who moved up from old town one of the first
grocery stores. A partnership in this store was bought by ]\Ir. Cox, who came
into North Yakima on the first train. At that time the road was built only to
Ellensburg. Shortly after a switchback over the mountains was constructed
and used until the construction of the Stampede Tunnel. The home of Mr.
Cox at Third and B streets was moved up by George Cary. Other old houses
are the Pleasant Bounds house, now occupied by Mrs. A. J. Shaw and family;
the old Lilly house, back of the Hotel Guilland site, now fallen on evil days,
the home of A. B. Pearson, which until a few years ago belonged to A. B.
Weed; the home of Miss Lucy Nichols; the old Purdy Flint house two or three
doors below the avenue, on Naches. The home of Mr. and Mrs. Richard
Strobach originally belonged to J. P. Mattoon, one of the pioneers.
George Donald, twenty-five years ago, instead of living in the handsomest
house in the Yakima Valley, was residing in a portion of one of the Northern
Pacific warehouses.
FIRST DRUG STORE
The first drug store in North Yakima belonged to a man named Bushnell.
The first dry goods store was that of Ditter Brothers, fonnerly of Old Town.
The first three-story brick block was the Syndicate Building, now the Republic
office. The Lewis-Engel Building, formerly so long occupied by Lombard &
Horsley, went up about the same time. The old postofhce used to be on the
avenue, about where Lecky's store is now.
It is not to be understood that these houses could be located by streets in
those early years for the streets of those days were mainly paths through the
sage.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 415
A long frame building which disappeared a few months ago when the
Eagles put up their building was a double house occupied at one time by the
families of A. B. Weed and W. L. Steinweg. Mr. Weed brought his hardware
business, now the Yakima Hardware Company, up from old town. Mr. Stein-
weg was not a first settler. He did not arrive until 1886, when the town was
a year old.
TWO FACTIONS
Even in those early days, there was an east and a west side faction. The
east side was stronger, but the late Capt. C. M. Holton, the most aggressive
west sider, had sufficient influence to get the Congregational Church, as well
as a number of houses, on the other side of the tracks. Captain Holton, who
founded the Republic, owned th epresent Congdon place, and the old Holton
house is the one with a queer upper porch this side of the Congdon home, now
occupied by the Baedker family.
The county seat was moved by the legislature in January, 1886. This act
has permanent interest and is given here.
An Act
to remove the county seat of yakima county from yakima city to north
YAKIMA
Be it enacted by the Legislative Assembly of the Territory of Washington:
Sec. 1. That the county seat of Yakima County in Washington Territory,
be and the same is hereby removed from Yakima City to North Yakima, in said
county, and said county seat is hereby located at North Yakima.
Sec. 2. All the county officers of said county are hereby directed to re-
move to and hereafter held their offices at North Yakima.
Sec. 3. The county commissioners of said county ^hall cause to be re-
moved from Yakima City to North Yakima the court house of said county, and
may remove any other county buildings or property by them deemed of suffi-
cient value.
Sec. 4. All acts and parts of acts in conflict with the provisions of this
act are hereby repealed.
Sec. 5. This act shall be in force and take effect from and after its pass-
age and approval.
Approved January 9, 1886.
The courthouse was moved to the new town in 1887, and with its establish-
ment it may be said that North Yakima had its full official station.
The contemporary newspapers and advertisements of any growing commu-
nity are usually the best index of its development.
We find the first number of the "Yakima Herald," Februar)- 2, 1889, to
contain a very interesting group of advertisements, and in its salutatory we find
matter worthy of preservation in these pages.
416 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
ADVERTISEMENTS FROM "HERALD"
THE YAKIMA HERALD
REED & COE _ _ Proprietors
ISSUED EVERY THURSDAY
$2.00 PER AKNUM, IN ADVANCE
ADVERTISING RATES UPON APPLICATION
E. M. REED, EDITOR AND BUSINESS MANAGER
*******
* PROFESSIONAL CARDS *
W. H. White H. J. Snively
U. S. ATTORNEY
WHITE & SNIVELY,
ATTORNEYS AT LAW
Will Practice inn All Courts of the Territory.
Office with County Treasurer, at the Court House
N. T. Caton I. C. Parrish
Sprague North Yakima
CATON & PARRISH
ATTORNEYS AT LAW
Will Practice in All the Courts of the Territory.
Office on First Street, Opposite the Court House, North Yakima, W. T.
JOHN G. BOYLE
ATTORNEY AT LAW
Will Practice in All the Courts of the Territory.
Office in First National Bank Building, North Yakima, W. T.
T. B. Reavis A. Mires C. B. Graves
REAVIS, MIRES & GRAVES
ATTORNEYS Wt LAW
Will Practice in All Courts of the Territor}-.
Special Attention Given to All U. S. Land Office Business.
Offices at North Yakima and Ellensburgh, W. T.
Edward Whitson John B. Allen
Fred Parker Walla Walla
North Yakima
ALLEN, WHITSON & PARKER
ATTORNEYS AT LAW
Office in First National Bank Building, North Yakima, W. T.
^=
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 417
DAVID ROSSER, M. D.
Having been in active practice for a number of years, now offers his services
to the citizens of North Yakima and community. All calls answered promptly
and he hopes by diligent attention to business to merit a liberal patronage. Office
over C. B. Bushnell's drug store.
T. B. GUNN
PHYSICIAN AND SURGEON
Offi,ce in First NUtional Bank, First Door Up Stairs
Refers to W. A. Cox and Eshelman Bros. ; also, to any citizen of Memphis, Mo.
MISCELLANEOUS
J. M. STOUT
FORWARDING AND COMMISSION
The Handling of Yakima Produce for Puget Sound Markets a Specialty
Warehouse West of Railroad Track. No. 8, Block B, North Yakima, W. T.
FIRE WOOD AND DRAYING
I have a large quantity of excellent pine and fir cord wood and fir slab wood
for sale cheap. I also run two drays and am prepared to do hauling at reason-
able figures. Apply to
JOHN REED
North Yakima, W. T.
NORTH YAKIMA NURSERY
NORTH YAKIMA, W. T.
All Kinds of
FINE FRUIT TREES
At Moderate Prices.
SHADE TREES A SPECIALTY
E. R. LEAMING . . _ PROP.
FIRST NATIONAL BANK OF NORTH YAKIMA
Directors
R. Lewis
Wm. Ker
Chas. Carpenter
A.
W.
Engle
Edward
Whitson
Capital
_
_
_ $65,000
Surplus
_
_ _ _ -
15,000
R. Lewis
Edward Whitson
^resident
W.
L. Stein WEG
Cashier
Vice-President
DOES A GENERAL BANKING BUSINESS
BUYS AND SELLS EXCHANGE AT REASONABLE RATES
(27)
418 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
JOS. J. APPEL,
— Dealer in —
FIN|E WINES AND LIQUORS
The Best Brands of
IMPORTED AND DOMESTIC CIGARS
South Side Yakima Avenue
FIELD & MEYER
CITY MEAT MARKET
Wholesale and Retail Butchers and Packers
North Yakima, Washington T.
Also Proprietors of the Washington Market, Seattle, Washington T.
TO THE READING PUBLIC.
The Herald puts its initial issue of five thousand
copies before the public. It will be sent broadcast
over the country, and placed in every hotel and read-
ing room in the Territory. A request is made that
all individuals receiving this number, who desire its
continuance as a weekly visitor, will please send in
their names, accompanied by the subscription price of
two dollars per year.
GREETING
The "Yakima Herald" Makes Its Obeisance to the Public
The Herald has its being not from any special desire of its publishers to
again enter the newspaper field ; not from love of the unremitting labor which
is engendered by the publication of a live newspaper, even if it be a weekly, but
on account of a hearty and generous call made by the Board of Trade, and by
citizens outside of the board, who in their liberal pledges of business have made
the undertaking an assured success financially, as we trust it will be in point
of merit. There are already two papers published in this little city; but Yakima
is a favored spot, and, with her growth and prosperity, the Herald hopes to
grow and prosper. Yakima is favored in geographical location ; in unsurpassed
climate ; in water power sufficient for dozens of large factories ; in soil capable
of varied and extensive agricultural development ; in v>'heat fields that are
inexhaustible granaries ; in fruit lands that have boundless capacity of produc-
tion ; in lands that will grow the best of hops, which are never troubled by those
blights and pests which often destroy the hops of other countries ; in vast ranges
where tens of thousands of cattle, horses and sheep multiply and grow fat; in
lands that yield large and excellent crops of tobacco," the choicest of vegetables,
broom corn, sorghum, sweet potatoes, peanuts, and other products valuable for
shipment abroad as well as home consumption. There are among the reasons
which have induced the Herald publishers to select this point. There is another
leading reason, and that is the location of North Yakima with regard to railway
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 419
transportation facilities. It is on the main line of a great transcontinental rail-
road, and several other lines are projected or actually building this way. This
transcontinental road gives Yakima an excellent market on the Sound for any
or all of its produce ; a market in the Cle-Ellum country, with its wealth of
metals and coals, but whose agricultural capacities can not afford supply to the
local demand : a market to the east as far as Helena, to which point or inter-
mediate points large shipments of fruits and vegetables are made during the
year.
Are these not reasons enough, and they are but a fev/ of them, to believe
that North Yakima will be a point of much importance, and reasons sufficient
to believe that there is an opening here for the Herald? We think so; and,
as a sequence, the Herald is before you, asking for your good will and liberal
support. The policy of the paper will be one of main devotion to Yakima and
the territory at large. In politics it will be strictly independent. This outline is not
extensive, but it is sufficient. It answers every purpose as well as had it been
strung out a yard, for it will be maintained to the letter.
The Her.\ld does not wear all of the becoming plumage in which it expects
soon to be decked ; but its plant is new and capable of good work, and before
long the rough edges will be taken ofif and it will move along in the even tenor
of its way, with the smoothness of well oiled cogs, laboring faithfully for the
interests of the growing city of North Yakima, the large pnd fertile county of
Yakima, and the great state of Washington.
That the social side was not lacking appears from sundry announcements,
one of which, having connected with it some well-known names of the pres-
ent day, will awaken responsive echoes in the memories of some old-timers.
Invitation Party
The Herald has turned out this week invitation cards for a social party
to be given at the Opera House, Thursday evening, February 7, 1889. The
following committees have been selected :
Arrangements — W. J. Roaf, F. R. Reed, H. C. Humphrey, G. J. Gardiner,
David Guilland and O. A. Fechter.
Reception— J. B. Hugsley, M. H. Ellis, E. M. Reed, Joe Bartholet, W.
L. Steinweg and F. T. Parker.
Floor — Fred Rowe, W. Fl. Chapman, Wayne Field, W. J. Milroy,
Edward Whitson and E. S. Robertson.
An excellent contemporary view of the North Yakima of the close of
the decade of the eighties is given here.
North Yakima
rapid growth and great resources of the jewel city of central
washington
(From the Portland Orcgonian of January 1, 1889.)
Evidence of what the Yakima Valley grows and sells — many advantages
in town and country.
420 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
There are sixty-two business houses in the city of North Yakima, and
all of them generally occupied by every known branch of commerce and trade
— from two national banks, whose daily deposits average from l$8,0(X) to
$15,000 per day, — some days the deposits have reached $60,000, — while the
average deposit balance will equal $150,000, also from the dealer in general
merchandise down to the laundry. In the general sales for the past year,
including lumber, coal and the products of two flouring mills, both of the
latest improved roller process, also the sales of merchandise, the city of North
Yakima, with its 2,000 to 2,200 inhabitants, has sold in 1888 about two and
one-half million dollars. Probably as good an indication of the local business
can be arrived at by the shipments of products from the Northern Pacific
Railway station here as from any other source. It must be remembered that
these shipments are those of the surplus, or unused products here at home.
The population of the county is variously estimated at from 4,850 to 6,000.
The last census — an inaccurate one, rather under than over — -placed the pop-
ulation at 4,000 about a year ago. The influx in population since then has
really been marvelous, yet no accurate means are at hand to estimate the
number of that increase. It would be extremely conservative to place it at
25 per cent., and none of this increase participated in the producing of crops
in 1888. The result of 1889 will show more than 25 per cent, increase in
these shipments. For the information of the reader we have secured the
total business by carloads shipped from this station. Possibly one-fourth as
much more has been shipped from here in quantities less than carload lots,
and these should be included. It should also be borne in mind that not until
the advent of the railway, some four, years ago or thereabouts, did these
farmers endeavor to raise anything more than they needed for home use, as
no market existed. In addition, fully two-thirds of these farmers have come
here since the railroad came. The total earnings of this station were
$168,000 for 1888. The principal shipments were 22,000 bales of hops, 260
carloads of hay, 298 carloads of live stock, cattle, 19 carloads of horses, shipped
East, 8 carloads of sheep, 62 carloads of vegetables, 27 carloads of potatoes,
21 carloads of melons, 2 carloads of wool and 7 cases of leaf tobacco, 4,000
pounds shipped to New York. Not over one-sixth of the available acreage
is under cultivation, and ten times as much as is now supplied with water is
here awaiting the creation of irrigating ditches and canals. These figures
should suggest the possibilities of this valley. Its market is the Sound and
coast cities, the markets of the world, also, via the Sound and Pa(;ific Ocean ;
and it has the towns and country to the east clear to and including St. Paul
and Chicago. There is no just reason why this city and county, when they
shall have reached their maximum in population, should not have in the city
from 15,000 to 25,000, and the county. 40,000 to 50,000. Neither is there any
good reason why they should not be eventually among the very wealthiest
towns and counties in Washington Territory. For instance, the geographical
center of Illinois is Springfield. This Illinois city is wholly supported by agri-
culture, while the tributary country has not over half the yielding capacity
of this county of Yakima. Springfield is over forty }cars old, and Yakima
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 421
three to four since its existence was really acknowledged or known. 'Tis
true that Springfield is the capital of Illinois. Who knows but that North
Yakima may be the capital of Washington? Today the location of the capi-
tal, by common consent, is conceded to this central Washington, and one of
two towns must get it — each with apparently equal chances. If a neighboring
locality should secure the capital, why should not this city be at least the equal
of Jacksonville, Illinois, a neighboring town to Springfield? Jacksonville is
a city of 12,000, and a very wealthy city. It is a seat of learning with five
or six colleges and academies. Has not this city a parallel opportunity to the
cities named? Nowadays cities reach their maximum population in from five
to ten years. If this city should have the same experience then in five to
seven years hence North Yakima will have her 15,000 to 20,000 people and
property here, now so very cheap, will then have advanced 1,000 per cent.
All the material elements that go to make a big and prosperous city are here.
This people are the equal of any city in the universe in point of morals, educa-
tion, stability, energy, economy and application. They are distinctively a pro-
gressive people who value educational opportunities. The handsome two-
story brick school house now here, a fifteen thousand dollar building when
entirely completed and extremely modern, is evidence of their intentions and
desires in this direction. Another building even better than this one, will soon
be erected, as the need for it now exists. There are sixteen organized districts
or townships in Yakima County today. The area of the county covers about
7,000 square miles, or the equivalent of 70x100 miles. There are twenty-six
school districts in the county in each of which some kind of a school building
exists. The class of teachers employed are among the best — the system of
examination enforcing proper capacity and character — all of which explain the
character of this people. The school indebtedness of the county is nominal or
trivial, the total county indebtedness being only about $100,000. This sum ha,s
been required for the construction of bridges chiefly. So many valued and de-
sirable streams — the main life and sustenance of the county — require frequent
bridging to enable the farmers to get into the town, and the people are not
penurious in their own interests. These county bonds were most readily sold
at par — with 6 per cent, interest running thirty years — with the privilege of re-
demption at the end of twenty years. Yakima County presents one marvelous
and most attractive feature, viz. : The total taxation of the. county is only 13 4-5
mills, which includes the total tax, territorial added. It is divided as follows :
Territorial purposes 2.5
Ordinary county 6.0
School 3.0
Road and bridge 1.0
Road tax . 1.0
Military 2.0
Relief of indigent ex-Union soldiers is one-tenth of one mill, a total of
13 4-5 mills. There is not a pauper in the county. The above taxation is
422 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
heralded to the world as the very lowest known from and including Minne-
sota to and including California. If there is another county in a new country
that can show as low a taxation, the public would like to know of it. It is not
even one-half the average taxation of Dakota — it is about 5 mills less than the
average of this territory ; it is 7 mills less than the average of Montana, and
apparently, with the natural road beds, and increased valuation, it need not
be materially increased in the future. The total assessed valuation of prop-
erty is even two million dollars — and like all Washington Territory — this
valuation is most shamefully low. The real value is over four times as much
and on this basis the real taxation should be divided by four. With this most
desirable record of a county yet in its infancy, why should not Yakima County
and the city be most desirable to live in? The indebtedness of the city is only
$10,000, the taxation 7 mills. When taxes next are paid, this entire indebted-
ness could be paid off, or $7,000 of it, so easily as not to endanger the future
needs of the city. This amount, in the good financial condition of the city, is
almost too trivial to mention. We should not close this article without return-
ing the thanks of the Oregonian to Mr. H. C. Humphrey, the popular and
efficient agent of the N. P. Railway in this city, who kindly prepared the above
table of shipments from his records. He is also authority for the statement
that tlie local express business has more than doubled in amount in the last
year. The telegraph shows the same result, while the population itself about
doubled in 1888. — Oregonian.
The record of the preceding pages covers the first few years of the his-
tory of North Yakima. The general course of events in city and county is
embraced in other chapters in this part of this history. As our aim in this
chapter is primarily to give the municipal development of the city, we shall
now pass over a space of twenty years, noting only as we pass the fact that
the city, as well as the county, went through the financial eclipse from 1890
to 1897 with some inevitable retardation, but emerged on the other side,
chastened indeed, but undismayed, and ready for the great growth of the
years to come. From the standpoint of municipal government the most
important next stage was a great change in city organisation.
TpE COMMISSION FORM OF GOVERNMENT
During the last decade of the last century and the first of the present.
North Yakima, like most of the towns of the slate, mad'; a great intellectual
as well as material growth.
True to the American habit of mind and characlcr, a portion of that
intellectual growth manifested its energy in its application to political problems.
This is, in truth, the very genius of American institutions, the spirit of
self-determination and initiative in government. In the West more than else-
where, in both state and city government, there has been a great disposition
to experiment. The initiative, referendum, recall, and primary elections, are
products of this disposition. Verj' suggestively, during the very time that the
citizens of the Northwest were shaping the movements in state government
which would democratize politics, they were shaping a line of progress in city
\V.\SHIN..T().\ K\ .\1-()|;ATKI) KOOD CO., VAKIMA
GRAND HOTEL, YAKIMA
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 423
government which would centraHze. At first glance it would seem that this
latter movement might be antagonistic to the former.
Such a conclusion, however, would be very superficial. Both movements
were, basically, democratic. Both alike had their mainspring in the great
proposition that "governments derive their just powers from the consent of
the governed," and the natural sequence that publicity and direct responsi-
bility to the people are vital to just and righteous government.
The failure of municipal government in America (the only failure in
our system), far from being a failure of Democracy, as some highbrow critics
assert, was precisely due to lack of Democracy. In other words, it was due
to the "Boss System," with the lobbying, bribery, and rotten backroom politics
nesting around such a system. Cast the light of day upon these hidden base-
ments of Bossism, and we secure the real Democracy which exemplifies the
American ideal.
Out of these conditions, both theoretical and practical, grew the demand
in various parts of our country, east and south, as well as west, though the
movement has been more general and pronounced in the Northwest than else-
where, for the commission form of city government. Thinking men were
becoming established in the conviction that such a system would unite effi-
ciency with publicity and thus secure honest and righteous administration.
It is a matter of just pride to some of the local statesmen of Yakima that
from their city the proposal went which eventuated in the law providing for
the city commission government.
This law was framed by a special committee of the Yakima Commercial
Club, the members of the committee being as follows: Frank J. Allen, John
H. Lynch, F. A. Luce, Wilbur Crocker, and John L. Hughes. The proposed
charter, prepared by the above committee, was submitted to the Commercial
Club and adopted January 3, 1911.
Mr. Allen, chairman of the committee, was state senator from Yakima
County, and by him the bill for providing the charter was introduced. With
a few amendments it was passed. This charter was adopted by Yakima by
a vote of 963 to 148. Walla Walla and a number of other cities of the class
to come within its provisions also adopted it. As this charter superseded the
previous charter it is of interest to preserve here its essential provisions as found
in the following sections of the law :
Sec. 7. Candidates to be voted for at the first and all regular municipal
elections, under the provisions of this act, shall be a mayor and two commis-
sioners, who shall be nominated at a primar}- election; and no other names
shall be placed upon the general ballot except those selected in the manner
hereinafter prescribed. The primar\- elction for such nomination shall be held
on the second Monday preceding the municipal election. The officers of elec-
tion appointed for the municipal election shall be the officers of the primary
election, which shall be held at the same place, so far as practicable, and the
polls shall be opened and closed at the same hours as are required for the
municipal election.
Any person desiring to become a candidate for mayor or commissioner
shall, not less than 15 nor more than 25 days prior to said primary election.
424 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
file with the city clerk a statement of such candidacy accompanied with the
filing fee required by law, in substantially the following form :
Sec. U. Cities organized under the provisions of this act shall have all
the powers which cities of the second and third classes now have, or hereafter
may have conferred upon them; all which said powers shall inhere in and
be exercised by the commission provided for in this act. The executive and
administrative powers, authority and duties in such cities under commission,
shall be distributed into and among three departments, as follows:
I. Department of Public Safety.
II. Department of Finance and Accounting.
III. Department of Streets and Public Improvements.
The commission shall determine by ordinance the powers and duties to
be performed in each department ; shall prescribe the powers and duties of
officers and employes ; may assign particular officers and employes to one
or more of the departments ; may require an officer or employe to perform
duties in two or more departments, and may make such other rules and regu-
lations as they may deem necessary or proper for the efficient and economical
conduct of the business of the city.
Sec. 12. The mayor shall be superintendent of the department of public
safety, and the commission shall, at the first regular meeting after election of
its members, designate by majority vote one commissioner to be superintendent
of finance and accounting; and one to be superintendent of the department of
streets and public improvements ; but such designation may be changed when-
ever it appears that the public service would be benefited thereby.
The commission shall, at said first meeting, or as soon as practicable
thereafter appoint by majority vote, a city clerk, and such other officers and
assistants as shall be provided for by ordinance. Provided, that none of such
officers and assistants shall be related to any member of the city commission
or to each other, either by blood or marriage, within the fourth degree of
kindred: and provided, further, that any officer or assistant, elected or
appointed by the commission, may be removed from office at any time by vote
of a majority of the members of the commission, except as otherwise provided
in this act. Provided, still further, that any member of the commission may
perform the duties pertaining to any and all appointive offices in his depart-
ment, but without additional compensation therefor.
Sec. 13. The commission shall have power from time to time to create,
fill and discontinue offices and employments other than those herein prescribed,
according to their judgment of the needs of the city; and may, by majority
vote of all the members, remove any such officer or employe, except as other-
wise provided for in this act; and may by resolution, or otherwise, prescribe,
limit or change the compensation of such officers or employes.
Sec. 14. The commission shall have and maintain an office at the city
hall, or such other place as the city may provide, and their total compensation
shall be as follows: In cities, having by the last preceding census authorized
by law, a population of three thousand (3,000) and less than seven thousand
(7,000) the annual salary of the mayor shall be twelve hundred dollars
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 425
($1,200.00), and that of each of the commissioners one thousand dollars
($1,000.00) ; in cities having by such census a population of seven thousand
(7,000) and less than fourteen thousand (14,000), the annual salary of the mayor
shall be twenty-four hundred dollars ($2,400.00), and that of each of the commis-
sioners two thousand dollars ($2,000.00) ; and in cities having by such census a
population of fourteen thousand (14,000) and less than twenty thousand (20,000),
the annual salary of the mayor shall be thirty-six hundred dollars ($3,600.00),
the commission shall fix by ordinance and shall be payable monthly or at such
salaries shall be payable in equal monthly installments.
Every other officer or assistant shall receive such salary or compensation as
the commission shall fix by ordinance and shall be payable monthly or at such
shorter periods as the commission shall determine.
Sec. 15. Regular meetings of the commission shall be held on the second
Monday after the election of the commission, and thereafter at least once each
week. The commission shall provide by ordinance for the time of holding
regular meetings, and special meetings may be called from time to time by the
mayor or two commissioners. All meetings of the commission, whether reg-
ular or special, shall be open to the public.
The mayor shall be president of the commission and preside at its meet-
ings, and shall oversee all departments and report and recommend to the com-
mission for its action all matters requiring attention in any department. The
superintendent of the department of finance and accountings shall be vice
president of the commission, and in the absence or inability of the mayor, shall
perform the duties of the mayor.
Sec. 16. Every ordinance or resolution appropriating money or ordering
any street improvement or sewer or making or authorizing the making of any
contract, or granting any franchise or right to occupy or use the streets, high-
ways, bridges or public places in the city for any purpose, shall be completed in
the form in which it' is finally passed, and remain on file with the city clerk for
public inspection at least one week before the final passage or adoption thereof.
No franchise or right to occupy or use the streets, highways, bridges or pub-
lic places in any city shall be granted, renewed or extended, except by ordi-
nance ; and every franchise or grant for interurban or street railways, gas or
water works, electric light or power plants, heating plants, telegraph or tele-
phone systems, or other public service utilities within said city, must be author-
ized or approved by a majority of the electors voting thereon at a general or
special election.
Sec. 17. No officer or employe elected or appointed in any such city
shall be interested, directly or indirectly, in any contract or job for work or
materials, or the profits thereof, or services to be furnished or performed for
the city; and no officer or employe shall be interested directly or indirectly,
in any contract or job for work or materials, or the profits thereof, or services
to be furnished or performed for any person, firm or corporation operating
interurban railway, street railway, gas works, water works, electric light or
power plant, heating plant, telegraph line, telephone exchange, or other public
utility within the territorial limits of said city. No such officer or employe
426 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
shall accept or receive directly or indirectly, from any person, firm, or cor-
poration operating within the territorial limits of said city, any interurban rail-
way, street railway, gas works, water works, electric light or power plant, heat-
ing plant, telegraph line or telephone exchange, or other business using or
operating under a public franchise, any frank, free ticket or free service, or
accept or receive, directly or indirectly, from any such person, firm, or corpora-
tion, any other service upon terms more favorable than is granted to the public
generally. Any violation of the provisions of this section shall be a misde-
meanor, and every such contract or agreement shall be void.
Such prohibition of free transportation shall not apply to policemen or
firemen in uniform ; nor shall any free service to city officials provided for
by any franchise or ordinance be afifected by this section. Any appointive
officer or employe of such city who, by solicitation or otherwise, shall exert
his influence to induce other officers or employes of such city to favor any
particular candidate for any city office, or who shall in any manner contribute
money, labor, or other valuable thing to any person for city election purposes,
shall be discharged from his office by the commission.
Sec. 18. The commission shall each month print in pamphlet form a
detailed itemized statement of all receipts and expenses of the city and a sum-
mary of its proceedings during the preceding month, and furnish printed copies
thereof to the state library, the city library, the daily newspapers of the city,
and to persons who shall apply therefor at the office of the city clerk. At the
end of each year the commission shall cause a full and complete examination
of all books and accounts of the city to be made by competent accountants, and
shall publish the result of such examination in the manner above provided for
publication of statements of monthly expenditures.
Sec. 19. If, at the beginning of the term of office, of the first commission
elected in such city under the provisions of this act, the appropriations for the
expenditures of the city government for the current fiscal year have been
made, said commission shall have power, by ordinance, to revise, to repeal, or
change said appropriations and to make additional appropriations.
Sec. 20. The holder of any elective office may be removed at any time
after six months of incumbency by the electors qualified to vote for a successor
of such incumbent. The procedure to effect the removal of an incumbent of
an elective office shall be as follows : A petition signed by electors entitled to
vote for a successor to the incumbent sought to be removed, equal in number
to at least thirty-five per centum of the entire vote for all candidates for the
office of mayor cast at the last preceding general municipal election, demanding
an election of a successor of the person sought to be removed, shall be filed
with the city clerk, which petition shall contain a general statement of the
grounds for which the removal is sought. The signatures to the petition need
not all be appended to one paper, but such signer shall add to his signature his
place of residence, giving the street and number. One of the signers of each
such paper shall make oath before an officer competent to administer oaths
that the statements therein made are true as he believes, and that each signa-
ture to the paper appended is the genuine signature of the person whose name
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLF.Y 427
it purports to be. Within ten days from the date of fihng such petition the city
clerk shall examine and, from the voter's register, ascertain whether or not
said petition is signed by the requisite number of qualified electors, and, if
necessary, the commission shall allow him extra help for that purpose; and
he shall attach to said petition his certificate, showing the result of such exami-
nation. If by the clerk's certificate the petition is shown to be insufficient, it
may be amended within ten days from the date of said certificate. The clerk
shall, within ten days after such amendment, make like examination of the
amended petition, and if his certificate shall show the same to be insufficient
it shall be returned to the person filing the same ; without prejudice, however,
to the filing of a new petition to the same effect. If the petition shall be deemed
to be sufficient, the clerk shall submit the same to the commission without delay,
and the commission shall order and fix a date for holding the said election, not
less than thirty days nor more than forty days from the date of the clerk's
certificate to the commission that a sufficient petition is filed. Provided, how-
ever, that in any case where the clerk shall find that the petition is insufficient,
or in any case where the commission shall refuse to order an election, then in
either of such cases any taxpayer may petition the Superior Court of such
county, and such court shall forthwith examine the petition and, if it shall find
the petition sufficient, then the court shall order that such election shall be held
and the commission shall be required by the order of the court to hold such elec-
tion.
The commission shall make, or cause to be made, publication of notice
and all arrangements for holding such election, and the same shall be con-
ducted, returned and the result thereof declared, in all respects as are other
city elections.
The commission shall call a special primary election for the purpose of
nominating one candidate to oppose the incumbent sought to be removed,
which said primary election shall be conducted, as nearly as may be, in the
same manner as other primary elections under this act. The successor of
any officer so removed shall hold office during the unexpired term of his prede-
cessor. Any person sought to be removed shall be a candidate to succeed him-
self, unless he formally resigns his office, thereby creating a vacancy, and the
city clerk shall place his name on the official ballot without nomination. In
any such removal election, the candidate receiving the highest number of votes
shall be declared elected. At such election, if the candidate opposing the incum-
bent receives the highest number of votes, the incumbent shall thereupon be
deemed removed from the office upon qualification of his successor, which said
qualification shall take place within ten days after receiving notification of
election, otherwise the ofiRce shall be deemed vacant. If the incumbent receives
the highest number of votes he shall continue in office and shall not be subject
to recall under the provisions of this section during the remainder of his
term of ofBce. The same method of removal shall be cumulative and additional
to the methods heretofore provided by law.
Sec. 21. Any proposed ordinance may be submitted to the commission
by petition signed by electors of the city equal in number to the percentage
428 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
hereinafter required. The signatures, verification, authentication, inspection,
certification, amendment and submission of such petition shall be same as pro-
vided for petitions under Section 20 hereof.
If the petition accompanying the proposed ordinance be signed by electors
equal in number to twenty-five per centum of the votes cist for all candidates
for mayor at the last preceding general election, and if it contains a request
that the said ordinance be submitted to a vote of the people, unless passed by
the commission, it shall thereupon be the duty of the commission to either
(a) Pass said ordinance without alteration within twenty days after
attachment of the clerk's certificate to the accompanying petition; or
(b) Forthwith after the clerk shall attach to the petition accompanying
such ordinance his certificate of sufficiency, the commission shall call a special
election, unless a general municipal election will occur within ninety days
thereafter, and at such special or general election such ordinance shall be sub-
mitted without alteration to the vote of the electors of said city.
The ballots used for voting upon said ordinance shall be similar to those
used at the general municipal election, ajid shall contain these words: "For
the Ordinance" (stating the nature of the proposed ordinance) ; and "Against
the Ordinance" (stating the nature of the proposed ordinance). If a majority
of the qualified electors voting on. the proposed ordinance shall vote in favor
thereof, such ordinance shall thereupon become a valid and binding ordinance
of the city, and any ordinance proposed by petition, or which shall be adopted by
a vote of the people, cannot be repealed or amended except by a vote of the
people, and on the margin of the record of such ordinances the city clerk shall
write the words "Ordinance by Petition No " or "Ordinance by Vote
of the People," as the case may be.
Any number of proposed ordinances may be voted upon at the same elec-
tion, in accordance with the provisions of this section, but there shall not be
more than one special election in any period of six months for such purpose.
The commission may submit a proposition for the repeal of any such ordi-
nance or for amendments thereto, to be voted upon at any succeeding general
city election, and should such proposition so submitted receive a majority of
the votes cast thereon at such election, such ordinance shall thereby be repealed
or amended accordingly. Whenever any ordinance or proposition is required
by this act to be submitted to the voters of the city at any election, the city
clerk shall cause such ordinance or proposition to be published once in each
of the daily newspapers, in said city, such publication to be not more than
twenty or less than five days before the submission of such proposition or ordi-
nance to be voted on. Provided, that if no daily newspaper is published in
such city, then such publication shall be made in each of the weekly newspapers
published therein.
All ordinances repealed or amended shall have placed on the margin of
the record of said ordinance by the city clerk the words "Repealed (or
amended) by Ordinance No " or "Repealed (or amended) by vote of
the people," as the case may be.
Sec. 22. No ordinance passed by the commission, except when otherwise
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 429
required by the general laws of the state of Washington or by the provisions
of this act, except an ordinance for the immediate preservation of the public
peace, health or safety, which contains a statement of its urgency and is passed
by unanimous vote of the commission, shall go into effect before thirty days
from the time of its final passage, and if during said thirty days a petition
signed by electors of the city equal in number to at least tv/enty-five per centum
of the entire vote cast for all candidates for mayor at the last preceding general
municipal election at which a mayor was elected, protesting against the passage
of such ordinance, be presented to the commission, said ordinance shall there-
upon be suspended from going into operation, and it shall be the duty of the
commission to reconsider such ordinance, and if the same is not entirely
repealed, the commission shall submit the ordinance as is provided by sub-
section "b" of Section 21 of this act, to the vote of the electors of the city,
either at the general election or at a special municipal election to be called for
that purpose; and such ordinance shall not go into effect or become operative
unless a majority of the qualified electors voting on the same shall vote in
favor thereof. Said petition shall be in all respects in accordance with the
provisions of Section 21, and be examined and certified to by the clerk in all
respects as therein provided. Provided, this section shall not apply to ordi-
nances providing for local improvement districts.
Sec. 23. Any city which shall have operated for more than six years
under the provisions of this act may abandon such organization hereunder,
and accept the provisions of the general law of the state of Washington then
applicable to cities of its population.
LTpon the petition of not less than twenty-five per centum of the electors
of such city a special election shall be called, to which the following proposi-
tion only shall be submitted : "Shall the city of (name of city) abandon its
organization as a city under commission and become a city under the general
law governing cities of like population?"
If a majority of the votes cast at such special election be in favor of such
proposition, the said city shall become organized under the general law and
the first election of city officers under the general law shall be held on the date
of the next general city election of cities of its class; bui such change shall not
in any manner or degree affect the property, rights, or liabilities of any nature
of such city, but shall merely extend to such change in its form of government.
The sufficiency of such petition shall be determined, the election ordered
and conducted, and the results declared, generally, as provided by Section 20
of this act, in so far as the provisions thereof are applicable.
Sec. 24. Petitions provided for in this act shall be signed by none but
legal voters of the city. Each petition shall contain, in addition to the names
of the petitioners, the street and house number in which the petitioner resides,
his age and length of residence in the city. It shall also be accompanied by the
affidavit of one or more legal voters of the city stating that the signers thereof
were, at the time of signing, legal voters of said city, and the number of signers
at the time the affidavit was made.
Sec. 25. An emergency exists, and this act shall take effect immediately.
430 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \'ALLEY
The city commission government, thus instituted, has justified itself in
the minds of the citizens of Yakima and of the other cities of the state which
have adopted it.
It is of interest to remember that it was sustained by the Supreme Court
in a test case.
CITY OFFICI.^LS FORM FIRST ORGANIZATION TO DATE
We give at this point the list of mayors and clerks to the present time.
1886 — Edward Whitson, mayor.
Fred Parker, clerk.
1888— Fred R. Reed, mayor.
O. A. Fechter, clerk.
1890 — A. H. Reynolds, acting mayor.
O. A. Fechter, clerk.
1891 — R. K. Nichols, mayor.
John Reed, acting mayor.
F. M. Spain, clerk.
George W. Redman, clerk.
1891— A. B. Weed, mayor.
G. W. Redman, clerk.
R. K. Nichols, clerk.
1892— A. B. Weed, mayor.
G. W. Redman, clerk.
1893— W. F. Prosser, mayor.
Joseph Bartholet, clerk.
189^1 — W. L. Jones and W. H. Redman had a tie vote of 177. As a result
there was a special election by which W. H. Redman became mayor;
James R. Coe, clerk.
1896— W. H. Redman, mayor.
James R. Coe, clerk.
Up to this point elections had been in May, bur with this year they
were changed to December. Election of this year resulted :
O. A. Fechter, mayor.
H. B. V'oorhees, clerk.
1897— O. A. Fechter, mayor.
H. B. Doust, clerk.
1898— O. A. Fechter, mayor.
H. B. Doust, clerk.
1899— W. H. Redman, mayor.
H. B. Doust, clerk.
190O— O. A. Fechter, mayor.
H. B. Doust, clerk.
1901 — O. A. Fechter, mayor.
H. B. Doust, clerk.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA XALLIA' 431,
1902 — A. J. Shaw, mayor.
H. B. Doust, clerk.
1903— O. A. Fechter, mayor.
J. C. Brooker, clerk.
1904 — O. A. Fechter, mayor.
J. C. Brooker, clerk.
1905— Walter J. Reed, mayor.
J. C. Brooker, clerk.
1906— O. A. Fechter, mayor.
J. C. Brooker, clerk.
1907 — Henry H. Lombard, mayor.
J. C. Brooker, clerk.
1908 — Philip M. Armbruster, mayor.
J. C. Brooker, clerk.
1909— Philip M. Armbruster, mayor.
J. C. Brooker, clerk.
1910 — In this year there was a special contest for mayor between the
business men's party and the socialists. The result was :
H. H. Schott, business men's ticket, 841.
S. H. Patterson, socialist, 373.
J. C. Brooker, clerk.
1911 — This was a year of special interest. There was a vote on issuance
of bonds to the amount of $50,000, for a sewerage system.
Affirmative, 348.
Negative, 138.
In this year also the commission charter was submitted and the
vote was:
Affirmative, 963.
Negative, 148.
On September 9, 1911, the first election under the commission form of
government was held. It is of interest to preserve here the tabulated results
of that election. They were as follows :
For mayor: A. j. Splawn, 2,364; Pat Mullins, 1.380.
For commissioners: J. C. Brooker, 1,847; Simeon Dupree, 937; Wilbur
Crocker, 1,860; William H. Redman, 2,645.
The total registered vote was 4,574, and the vote cast was 3,767.
In the election of December 8, 1914, the results were these :
For mayor: J. F. Barton, 2,547; W. F. Buck, 1,725.
For commissioners : F. P. Baker, 2,061 ; Harry Coonse. 2,288 ; Wilbur
Crocker. 2,137; J. T. Foster, 1,827.
R. V. Hooper was appointed clerk.
1917 — In the election of December 3, 1917, the results were as follows:
For mavor: Forrest H. Sweet. 1,273: B. F. McCurdy. 1,242.
For commissioners: H. F. Marble, 1,484; W. D. McNair, 1,904; W. W.
Doty, 1,384.
432 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
SOME SPECIAL CAMPAIGNS
Most municipal elections in Yakima have been comparatively peaceful,
but on a few occasions there have been high feelings. The election of 1903
seems to have been one of those.
The files of the press furnish some data on that election which will prob-
ably excite more smiles than frowns in the retrospect, and hence we deem it
safe to insert here home forecasts from the "Democrat" of November 7th of that
year as to the forthcoming election.
The Yakima Democrat, November 7, 1903:
THE CITY CAMPAIGN.
Municipal Politics Warming Up — Early Conventions to Be Held and
Two Tickets to Be Placed in the Field.
It begins to look as though the municipal campaign, now on, will prove
to be the warmest thing of its kind that ever happened before it draws to a
close on election day, December 8, which will decide the matter.
Never before in the history of North Yakima, has so much interest been
shown in a city campaign as is evidenced this year and with election day still
a month in the future.
Already two conventions have been called to nominate candidates for the
different city offices to be filled. The first open move tor the calling of a
convention was made evident Thursday of last week by the appearance sud-
denly of hand bills signed by "a committee" announcing that primaries would
be held in the three wards of this city the evening of November 5, to select
delegates to a nominating convention to be held November 12. With the
appearance of the anonymous hand bills local politicians at once began to
evince an interest in the campaign and the question was asked perhaps a
thousand times, "Who is doing this?" No one apparently was able to answer
this question until Henry Lombard was approached. Like the distinguished
Father of his Country, the genial Lombard would not lie, neither would he
equivocate, as politicians sometimes do. On the other hand he was quite
frank and was willing to take the newspaper men into his confidence and make
a clean breast of it. He stated that the movement originated with a few busi-
ness men who had determined to take a -keen interest in the coming municipal
election, not that they desired the honors or emoluments of office for them-
selves, but for the general good of the city. Questioned as to the frame-up of
the new combination for city offices, Mr. Lombard had nothing to give out
except to admit that those in the movement had signified their preference for
H. B. Riggs for the office of city attorney. It is said that Mr. Lombard's
associates in jjlanning the campaign are Alexander Miller, A. B. Weed, E. B.
Moore and Rev. H. M. Bartlett. The name of Phil A. Ditter was also con-
nected with the movement, but that gentleman asserts that he is taking no part
in city politics.
On \\'ednesday of this week another hand-bill was circulated on the
streets signed by "many citizens," announcing that on Tuesday evening,
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 433
November lOth, a public mass meeting would be held at the city hall to place
in nomination a set of candidates for the city offices. So that it is evident
that there will be two full tickets in the field and that there will soon be things
a-doing.
The city offices to be filled at the coming election are as follows: Mayor,
clerk, attorney, treasurer, health officer and five councilmen, one at large, two
from the first ward, one from the second ward and one from the third ward,
the out-going councilmen being Keck at large, Moran and Harrison from the
first ward, Wyman from the second ward, and Liggett from the third; Fisher
of the second and Switzer of the third ward, will hold over for another year.
The candidates most freely mentioned for nomination on the so-called
business men's ticket are O. A. Fechter, W. B. Dudley and Frank Horsley for
mayor; R. K. Nichols and George S. Vance for clerk; H. B. Riggs and L. O.
Meigs for attorney, and F. G. Drew for health officer.
For councilmen, H. K. Sinclair, W. I. Lince and F. C. Hall are talked of
in the first ward, W. B. Dudley, A. B. Weed, Alex. Miller, and U. F. Dietman
in the second ward, while Robert Scott and W. M. Watt are mentioned for
the place in the third.
In the aggregation presumed to favor the nomination of a citizens' ticket,
a forecast as to probable nominees would be rather difficult to make. Except
for the nomination for city attorney there are not, as yet, many candidates in
evidence. Mayor Shaw, it is understood, while not actively seeking a renomi-
nation, is not averse to holding down the mayorship for another term in case
a majority of his fellow citizens desire him to do so. (Councilman Wyman is
also spoken of in connection with the office of mayor as is also Miles Cannon
and Ira P. Englehart. For clerk, the present incumbent, H. B. Doust, seems
to have no opposition as it is generally assumed that "grandpa" is a hard man
to go up against. For city attorney. Vestal Snyder, the present incumbent,
has no desire to enter the race for his official shoes. W. M. Thompson, I. M.
Krutz, Charles E. Forsyth and J. O. Cull are all mentioned for the place. The
contest for the nomination promises to be interesting.
For health officer on the citizens' ticket. Dr. P. Frank is the only candi-
date mentioned. For treasurer, C. S. Donovan, the present efifilcient incumbent,
will probably have no opposition for the nomination, as Mr. Donovan is gen-
erally regarded as a good vote getter and a hard man to beat.
For councilmen, Harry Moran and R. N. Harrison are talked of as their
own successors in the first ward as is also Frank Sinclair for one of the vacant
places.
In the second ward, Councilman Wyman in case he is not nominated for
mayor, will doubtless be asked to run again, although he is known to be averse
to serving another term on the council. C. C. Case and H. D. Winchester are
also mentioned for councilmen for that ward. In the third, where Councilman
Liggett retires, no candidates are as yet in evidence. Mr. Liggett's friends
desire that he should stand for the place again, but he is said to be unwilling
to do so.
The primaries were held Thursday night in the three wards of this city
with a fair attendance. The following gentlemen were elected delegates to the
(28)
434 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
city convention to be held November 12th: First ward, H. K. Sinclair, E. O.
Kelso, J. A. Kleis, P. Y. Heckman, J. T. Haines, George F. McAulay, \Vm.
Rand, J. A. Leach.
Second ward, H. H. Lombard, George Donald, Daniel Sinclair, H. D.
Winchester, W. A. Bell, W. M. Watt, James Greene, J. H. Fraser, A. B. Weed.
Third ward, Robert Scott, Walter J. Reed, W. J. Aumiller, B. L. Bull.
C. H. Hinman, H. V. Holden.
The election occurred on December 8th, and in the issue of December 12th,
the Democrat reports and comments thus:
IT WAS A LANDSLIDE.
The Municipal Election in This City Tuesday Results in Pronounced
Defeat for the Citizens' Ticket — Who Was the Jonah?
The biggest surprise in the history of municipal politics in North Yakima
followed in the wake of the voting in this city last Tuesday. It was a good deal
of a surprise to everybody, the victors as well as the vanquished. It was a
snow storm, a blizzard, a landslide and an earthquake all combined. And yet
there was hardly a ripple on the surface. Everything was quiet and serene.
The people for once seem to have taken the advice of the Yakima Republic
by simply keeping their mouths shut and voting. The silent voter did the
work
The People's ticket won out all along the line except for the single office
of treasurer, where C. R. Donovan, the present incumbent of that office,
defeated John W. Sindall, the People's candidate, by a majority of 112 votes.
That Mr. Donovan was elected at all under such circumstances, is evidence
that he is a vote getter and that the people are satisfied that he is the right
man in the right place. It should be remembered too that a good man was
pitted against him in the race.
Oscar A. Fechter was for the sixth time elected mayor, though not con-
secutively, securing a majority of 182 over W. J. Wyman. ISlr. Fechter car-
ried all three wards of the city and the size of his majority surprised everjbody.
The biggest surprise of the day, however, was in the defeat of H. B. Doust,
who since January, 1897, has filled the office of city clerk. "Grandpa" Doust
was beaten by 59 votes by J. C. Brooker. Mr. Doust had been regarded as
"invincible" ; otherwise he might have been pulled through.
For attorney James O. Cull defeated William M. Thompson by a majority
of 190 votes, Mr. Cull carrying all three wards. The defeated aspirant took
his defeat good naturedly, as did all the losers in fact, and lost no time in
congratulating his successful opponent.
For health officer Dr. Carver defeated Dr. Frank by a majority of 301,
which is exactly the same score that D. M. Rand made against R. N. Harrison
in the contest for councilman from the first ward. It is difficult to understand
why Dr. Frank should have been pelted so severely by the voters in view of
the splendid record made by him during the several years that he acted as
health officer of this city. But the verdict is heavily against him, just the
same.
For councilman at large L. L. Thorp defeated Frank D. Clenimer, citizens'
nominee, by 129. For long term councilman from the first ward, H. K. Sinclair
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 435
defeated Harry Aloran by 217, while as before noted, D. M. Rand defeated
R. N. Harrison by 301. For councilman from the second ward, W. B. Dudley
won out over C. C. Case, the citizens' candidate, by 224, while B. F. Bull of
the third ward defeated A. N. Short by 141 votes.
The next city council will therefore consist of the five people's candidates
elected Tuesday in addition to the two holdover members elected last year on
the citizens' ticket, namely, Thomas R. Fisher from the second ward and
A. F. Switzer from the third ward.
A number of very good men went down to defeat at the municipal election
held in this city last Tuesday. We have heard, as yet, no good reason advanced
why these men should have been turned down so relentlessly except that the
community was for the time being in a wrathful frame of mind, the majority
of the voters being determined to make a decided change in the personnel of
the city government.
The cause of this local upheaval is due almost entirely to the dissatisfac-
tion on the part of the people with one single act of the present city council,
to wit : the extension of the Yakima Water, Light & Power Company's fran-
chise for a period of twenty-five years.
Under all the circumstances the extension of this franchise was not the
monstrous crime that the people of this city have been led to believe. Where
the mistake was made was that the council did not invite the public, especially
the taxpayers of the city, to take part in the discussion and accept a share of
responsibility in this important matter. The editor of this paper both publicly
and privately urged that this course be taken by the city administration, but it
was not, and the result is disaster.
As a matter of fact this city is a good deal better off under the provisions
of the new franchise than it was under the old. It can control the corporation
better, will be given an improved service and will save a considerable amount
of money under the new ordinances.
In common fairness the council took into consideration too the company's
side of the question. This corporation although it has been in existence for a
period of fourteen years has never yet declared a dividend. The net earnings
of the system, for what years there have been any net earnings, have been put
back into the system in the way of improvements and extensions and even then
it has been found necessary to borrow a considerable sum of money in the
efifort to keep up with the growth of this widely scattered town.
Nione of these things, however, were mentioned by the people's party in
the demagogic appeal made for votes. A corporation can always be pictured
as a hungry monster seeking whom it may devour and it seems to have been
done in this case. There were but two men on the citizen's ticket who voted
to pass the franchise ordinances, whether good or bad. The other candidates
on the ticket, however, with the exception of the nominee for treasurer, were
likewise slaughtered at the polls although they had no more to do with the
436 HISTORY OF YAKIMA X'ALLEY
passage of the ordinances than so many citizens of the old town. The result
shows a lack of discrimination on the part of the voters.
The new regime will soon be ushered in. The Democrat trusts that the
new administration will act for the best interest of the city and its people. We
are inclined to believe that promises have been made that the mayor and council
will find hard to fulfill, but they are entitled to a fair chance and so far as this
paper is concerned they will have it.
Perhaps the question which excited most interest in the whole history of
the municipality was that vital one of water.
On August 23, 1906, an address to the voters of the city was given by the
"Municipal Ownership Committee" which contains so much valuable matter
bearing on the existing conditions of the time that, despite the length of this
chapter, we include it here.
To the Voters of North Yakima — A Plain Statement of Facts Regarding the
City Water Question — Numerous Reasons Why the People Should Decide
in Fwi'or of Municipal Ownership of the Water Works at the Special
Election August 28th, 1906.
Fellow Citizens : At the city election, held in December last, municipal
ownership of the city's water supply was made distinctly an issue of the cam-
paign and as a result the voters of this city at the polls, by a decisive majority,
declared their belief in that principle, electing to office the candidates standing
upon the municipal ownership platform and pledged to us; their best endeavors
to carry the same into effect.
The mayor and a majority of the council have thus far made good their
pledge to the people. After canvassing the subject carefully and viewing the
matter from every standpoint, the city government has called a special election
to be held Tuesday, August 28th. The purpose of this special election is to
submit the question of whether or not the council shall begin condemnation pro-
ceedings against the present water plant of the Northwest Light & Water Com-
pany with the view to municipal ownership of the system. Under the law it
will require a three-fifths majority of the voters in the nftirmative to carry the
proposition.
There is absolutely no question of the city's financial ability to purchase the
water plant of the N. W. L. & W. Company providing that such property can
be secured at anything like its real value, a fact whicli must be established
through legal proceedings.
The valuation of all taxable property in the city, according to the assess-
ment roll for 1906, is approximately $4,500,000. These figures will doubtless
be lowered somewhat, but not much, by the board of equalization now in ses-
sion. Upon the basis of a $4,500,000 assessment the city has the legal right to
float special water bonds to the extent of five per cent, of that sum, or $225,000.
These bonds, or the principal thereof, it should be remembered, would consti-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 437
tute a lien against the water plant and not against the city proper. The city,
however, would be required to guarantee the interest on the water bonds.
Competent engineers estimate the value of the present water plant at
$119,000. The city council has increased this estimate to .$145,000. The plant
was assessed this year for $82,340. This amount, however, is exclusive of the
company's franchise and also its water right. Under condemnation proceed-
ings the purchase price for the system would be computed by a jury and passed
by the court.
The water service given by the Northwest Light & Water Company is in
a number of ways most unsatisfactory. We maintain that its charges are uni-
formly too high; that owing to the existence of numerous "dead ends" the
system is an unsanitary one. No effort has been made to install either a filter
or a settling basin which are vitally necessary parts of a complete system.
Neither has the system kept pace with the rapid and constant growth of the
city.
We believe that North Yakima has, or should have, a bright future and
that at the expiration of another ten-year period it should have a population of
30,000 people. We should bear in mind, however, that an efficient water service,
or the lack of it, will .Jtiave, much to, do, with our future -gfowtJi -and- prospesit^y.
In order to realize our ambition in the matter of growth North Yakima must
be made a city of beautiful homes and a healthy city in which to live. The old
saying that "water is life," particularly applies to this semi-arid region.
The present franchise of the N. W. L. & W. Company has twenty-eight
years in which to nm. It is a jug-handled instrument that was foisted upon
the people by a past city administration of which better things were expected.
This franchise protects and fosters the interests of the water company, but
affords virtually no protection to its patrons. It is a masterpiece of injustice,
inequality and false pretenses.
If we are forced to live under it until its expiration the people of North
Yakima will have paid for a water system ten times over and will still have
none.
The need of better fire protection for the city is evident to every observing
citizen. Recent fires have shown the inadequacy of the present system in this
important respect. There is no encouragement for capital to erect costly build-
ings here mitil this serious defect has been remedied.
O'wing to the hostility of the daily papers of this city towards the local
application of the principle of municipal ownership this committee finds it
necessary to lay the facts before the voters in this manner, for the columns of
the dailies are open only to their friends.
We candidly submit these facts to the people, believing that the qualified
voters of the city will render a just verdict in the case at the polls on Tuesday,
August 28th.
Remember, that you can not vote on this important proposition unless you
are registered and that the registration books will close August 17th. If you
are not registered GO AND REGISTER NOW.
438 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
In connection with this question we submit the following points for the
voter's consideration:
The public health requires municipal ownership of the water supply.
The city demands better fire protection. Municipal ownership will supply
that need largely by supplying new hydrants for the residence districts as well
as an increased pressure.
I- The rapid growth of North Yakima is in itself an argument for public
ownership of the water system. The city is growing in every direction and
.the- necessity for immediate extension of the system is urgent. The present
company is not sufficiently responsive in this respect.
: Municipal ownership of the water supply would prove a splendid advertise-
ment for the city. We are behind a majority of cities of our size and prom-
inence in this respect. Strangers and possible investors frefjuently remind us of
this fact. Corporation control of a city's water system is not in conformity
with the spirit of the age in which we live.
!■■ The "dead ends" of the present system are in the highest sense unsanitary
and constitute a menace to the health of many of our people. Under municipal
ownership the present plant would immediately be converted into a thoroughly
circulating system.
The minimum monthly cost of water for a five-room house or less, should
not exceed fifty cents. The present rate is one dollar. Municipal ownership
should, and doubtless would, mean a considerable saving 'o every home owner
in the city.
Under municipal ownership every dollar earned by the water plant in
excess of operating expenses will not leave the city monthly, never to return.
It would be like buying your goods at home.
There is no necessity for the use of meters in a gravity system, which
admits of cheap operation. It is true that meters are in use in many other
cities, but as a rule they are employed only in cases where the water has to be
pumped. That is not the case in North Yakima.
The present franchise of the Northwest Light & Water Company has
twenty-eight years yet to run. If it continues in force for that period the people
of North Yakima will have paid for the plant, at present value, not less than
ten times and would stilj have no plant of their own. Is there any business
sense in such a policy?
The argument made by opponents of municipal ownership that the system
in practice here would seem an increase of taxes is not borne out by the ex-
perience of other cities that own their own water works. Over a dozen cities
of the first, second and third class in this state operate their own water systems
at a profit. The profit thus derived is used in support of the municipal govern-
ment, thus lowering taxation.
Seattle, Tacoma, Spokane, Bellingham, Everett, Walla Walla. Olympia
and many of the smaller cities of the state all operate their own water systems
and do so with profit, and what is more, to the satisfaction of their citizens. It
is rot to assert that the enterprising, thriving city of North Yakima can not
do the same thing.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA AWLLEY 439
Under the provisions of the present franchise the city council is practi-
cally powerless and is unable to protect the people either from a financial or a
sanitary standpoint.
Recent experiences with fire in this city show the imminent danger we
are constantly in on account of insufficient pressure. So long as this condition
of affairs exists the wonder is that men can be found who are willing to risk
their capital in the erection of costly buildings. The present system affords
little or no protection to the owners of four and five story buildings as the
pressure is uniformly too low. The franchise calls for seventy-five pounds
pressure to the square inch. The present average pressure is fifty-five pounds.
It is estimated that under municipal ownership the city could finish paying
for the present plant in about ten years. A sinking fund would be established
to make provision for the payment of the bonds. The city itself is not liable for
the payment of the principal, although, of course, it would plainly be its duty
to see that the bonds are paid when due. Under the provisions of the wise and
beneficent law under which we propose to proceed, the city acts the part of an
administrator.
To condemn the present water plant, which the city has an unquestioned
right to do, is better business policy than to build a new Sj'slem. A new system
would require about two years in building and would then come into competi-
tion with the present system, and fierce competition might spell failure. More-
over, the city would still be bound by the provisions of the present franchise,
which would mean that the municipality itself must remain a patron of the
Northwest company, or its successor.
North Yakima is destined to become a city of importance and at the ex-
piration of ten years should have a, population of 30,000. In order to grow,
however, we must have right conditions.
The most essential condition is a full and healthful water supply that will
be supplied to the people as cheaply as possible. Water is as essential to life
as is air. No soulless corporation should have jurisdiction over the people's
water supply. Water for drinking purposes should not be an article of com-
merce. Corporations are formed for the purpose of paying dividends. The
people of North Yakima have been milked long enough.
Under municipal control the city would begin at once to improve the water
system. The "dead ends" should be eradicated, a settling basin provided and
a modern filter system inaugurated. The mains should also be extended to
reach 3,000 or more people who are now forced to drink water from unsanitary
wells. Is there any man foolish enough to assume that such a policy of im-
provement will injure the city?
The neighboring towns of Ellensburg, Roslyn and Cle Elum all own their
own water systems and find their operation a source of profit. But what is
of more importance they give their people an abundant supply of pure, fresh
water, nor is it found necessary to dole it out to them through meters.
Under municipal ownership of the water plant the dust nuisance could be
largely abated in North Yakima. The city should own the sprinkling wagons
and keep the dust down. At any rate the installation of 150 new hydrants in
440 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
the residence sections would help to solve the problem, and there are at least
that many new hydrants badly needed.
It is an injustice that water users should be compelled to pay rent for the
use of meters, an ingenious contrivance that not one person out of fifty knows
how to read. There is no need of meters anyway in connection with a gravity
system, except, perhaps, in a few special cases.
The actual cost of delivering water by a gravity .system, such as ours,
ought not to exceed the modest sum of one cent per 1,000 gallons. Who says
that there are not great possibilities or profit in this business ?
The city now pays $3.75 per month rent on every hydrant and there are
about eighty hydrants in use, although at least 300 are needed. It would prac-
tically bankrupt the city to be compelled to pay for adequate fire protection
at this ruinous rate.
The amount of money paid out monthly by our city government for water
service is in itself more than sufficient to pay the interest upon the company's
bonded indebtedness. Under municipal ownership at the worst the city would
merely have to pay the iiiterest on the bonds. It is doing that now for a very
poor service.
The proposed water bonds, if need be, can be sold right here at home to
good advantage. Any bond that North Yakima puts out is worth its face and
will command a ready sale.
Municipal ownership under the system proposed is like borrowing the
money from a building and loan association with which to build a home — a
system that beats paying rent all to smash.
When a man tells you that he is against municipal ownership because that
he is opposed to the city going any further into debt, explain to him that the
city under the proposed system will not increase its bonded debt. The bonds
to be voted will constitute a mortgage against the water works, which the water
works in due time will pay ofif.
To be eligible to vote at the special election August 28th, you must have
resided within the state for one year, the county ninety days and the precinct
thirty days.
Municipal Ownership Committee.
In concluding this chapter on the development of the Municipality, a brief
survey of the present financial status and the personnel of the offtcial force will
be found of interest.
From the annual report at the opening of the year 1918, we derive the
following statistics, gleaned from a large amount of details. This report con-
tains the entire directory of city officers and a complete exhibit of finances:
CITY COMMJSSIONERS:
Forrest H. Sweet, mayor — Superintendent of the department of public
safety.
W. D. McNair, commissioner — Superintendent of the department of finance
and accounting.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 441
H. F. Warble, commissioner — Superintendent of the department of streets
and public improvements.
OFFICERS :
R. V. Hopper, city clerk; M. H. Hawks, city treasurer; Thos. E. Grady,
city attorney; N. A. Oilman, city engineer; J. M. Gilmore, chief of police; R.
B. Milroy, police judge; E. G. Dawson, fire chief; Dr. Benjamin S. Cerswell,
health officer; Neils Storgaard, building inspector and plumbing inspector;
E. S. Lueth, electrical inspector; J. D. John, cemetery superintendent; Mrs.
F. E. Ketchum, food inspector; H. W. Harris, deputy meat inspector; J. O.
White, deputy meat inspector.
FINANCIAL STATEMENT
— City Treasurer's Financial Report —
Receipts
Cash on hand June 1, 1918 $101,117.36
Received general taxes 15,343.73
Received road and bridge tax 398.38
Received police court fines 571.00
Received miscellaneous licenses 763.00
Received dog tax 33.00
Received bank interest 158.11
Received meat inspection fees 224.55
Received building inspection fees 49.50
Received electrical inspection fees 50.20
Received plumbing inspection fees 109.20
Received C. D. & C. R. fees 2.50
Received from cemetery 550.75
Received cemetery care 194.80
Received cemetery trust 510.00
Received certificates of redemption 328.10
Received library fines and dues 31.00
Received local improvement tax 3,132.34
Received rent of billboards. South First street 17.50
Received rent of room in Herald Building 71.77
Total $123,656.79
Disbursements
Current expense warrants redeemed $12,963.96
Cemetery warrants redeemed 304.50
Cemetery care warrants redeemed 399.30
Certificates of redemption redeemed 781.68
Library warrants redeemed 497.51
Park and Playground warrants redeemed 316.25
Bond interest redeemed 1,800.00
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
L. I. D. No. 190, interest coupons redeemed 6.00
L. I. D. No. 200, bonds redeemed 116.05
L. I. D. No. 200, interest coupons redeemed 6.96
L. I. D. No. 224, bonds redeemed 316.98
L. I. D. No. 224, interest coupons redeemed 401.36
L. I. D. No. 254, interest coupons redeemed 35.00
Cash on hand June 30, 1918 105,711.24
Total 3123,656.79
I certify that the above report is correct.
■M. H. H.-\WKS, City Treasurer.
SEGREGATION OF W.\RR.\NTS. JUNE, 1918
General Government
— Mayor —
Salary $ 208.33
Telephone .70
Total S 209.03
— Commissioner — Finance —
Salary ? 166.66
Telephone .70
Total $ 167.36
— Commissioner — Streets —
Salary S 166.66
Telephone .80
Total S 167.46
— Judicial Department —
Salary S 83.33
Witness fees 13.20
Total $ 96.53
—City Clerk-
Salaries $ 225.00
Stationery 9.15
Telephone 1.05
Repairs to safe 4.20
Total _. $ 239.45
PUBLIC LIBRARY, YAKIMA
\KM()WV, YAKIMA
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 443
— City Treasurer —
Salary $ 125.00
Stationery and printing 28.00
Telephone 1.00
Total S 154.00
— City Engineer —
Salaries, office $ 227.41
Salaries, field 503.75
Telephone 3.25
Laboratory expense .65
Measuring boxes 7.50
Abstract reports 6.00
Total $ 748.56
—City Hall—
Rent $ 192.50
Janitor 5.00
Total $ 197.50
— Legal Department —
Salaries $ 201.66
— Miscellaneous —
Advertising $ 27.02
Total cost of General Government $ 2,208.52
PROTECTION TO PERSON AND PROPERTY
— Foiice Department —
Salaries $ 1,185.84
Stationery , 4.15
Telephone 4.25
Lighting 3.60
Auto supplies and repairs 167.13
Feeding prisoners __ 51.50
Alarm system, expense 4.50
Auto hire 27.50
Batteries 4.80
Total $ 1,453.27
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
— Public Pound —
Salary of dog catcher $ 75.00
Care of estrays 98.58
Total $ 173.58
— Fire Department — General — •
Installing hydrants $ 62.52
Hydrant water service 615.00
Removing and resetting hydrants 140.86
Alarm system, expense 188.95
Total $ 1,007.33
— Building Inspection —
Salary $ 125.00
Telephone 1.60
Total $ 126.60
— Electrical Inspection —
Salary $ 125.00
Printing 45.75
Telephone 1.65
Total $ 172.40
— Fire Department No. 1 —
Salaries S 1,571.00
Auto supplies and repairs 6.50
Power, light and water 21.30
Telephone 7.50
Total $ 1,666.30
— Fire Department Nb. 2 —
Salaries $ 335.83
Light and water 6.75
Telephone 4.50
Total $ 347.08
Total cost of protection to person and property-? 4,946.56
— Conservation of Health —
Salary of health officer and assistants $ 160.00
Postage 1.50
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 445
Auto supplies and repairs 54.67
Drugs and prescriptions 2.65
Vital statistics 25.00
Lighting LOO
Telephone 2.25
Laboratory, salary 50.00
Laboratory, expense 7.30
Meat inspection, salaries 230.00
Meat inspection, expense 8.55
Food inspection, salary 50.00
Milk and dairy inspection, salaries 60.00
Alcohol bond 5.00
Total $ 657.92
— Sanitation and Promotion of Cleanliness —
Salary of inspectors $ 150.00
Auto supplies and repairs 54.67
Cleaning sewers, labor . 203.00
Cleaning toilets, labor 130.40
Cleaning streets, labor 98.75
Cleaning pavements, labor 378.00
Garbage collection, labor 481.40
Garbage collection, expense 2.25
Garbage disposal, labor 87.50
Total $ 1,585.97
— Highways —
Salary of foreman $ 125.00
Cement 17.35
Hardware 15.39
Aiito supplies and repairs 28.60
Street lights 1,092.05
Motor power 1.15
Street sprinkling, labor 825.00
Street sprinkling, expense 142.76
Street repairs, labor 393.00
Pavement flushing, labor 40.50
Brick pavement repairs, labor 63.62
Brick pavement repairs, expense 105.93
Sidewalks and crossings, labor 601.04
Sidewalks and crossings, expense 2.40
Hydrant repairs, labor 14.00
Hydrant repairs, expense 5.70
Machinery repairs, labor 35.00
446 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Machinery repairs, expense 2.05
Ditches, labor 343.00
Total $ 3,364.50
Education
— Public Library —
$
259.95
21.18
Magazines
22 00
Lighting
8 50
Postage, stationer)' _
Express
17.53
168
Telephone _
3125
Supplies
45
Refund on lost book
.50
Total _
$
335 40
Labor
-Recreati
on — Parks —
$
245.50
17 28
Total _- .
$
262.78
Public Service
■ — Tahoma Cemetery —
Salaries and labor $ 262.00
New tools 2.00
Telephone ' L50
Sand and gravel 20.00
Cement and paint 45.65
Supplies .40
Total $ 331.55
— .Annual and perpetual Care of Cemetery Lots —
Cemetery care, labor $ 218.35
— Water Systems —
McLaren water system, labor $ 78.67
Capitol Hill water system, labor 23.33
Total $ 102.00
^ HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 447
— Charities —
Salary of city nurse $ 100.00
— Miscellaneous —
Federal Employment office, expense $ ILOO
Holton Avenue water system, expense 38.66
Personal injuries 250.00
Total $ 299.66
— Paving Improvements —
Fourth estimate North First Avenue paving $ 10,435.75
— Warrants Outstanding June 30, 1918 —
Current expense . $ 11,508.30
Library 374.87
Cemetery 328.70
Cemetery care 90.00
Park and Playground _._ 165.03
Accident 750.00
L. I. D. Warrants 20,132.70
Total $ 33,349.60
I hereby certify that the above segregation of warrants issued and statement
of warrants outstanding is correct.
R. V. Hopper, City Clerk.
We find in the last issue of Polk's Directory so good a summary of the
essential features of the present city of Yakima that, although to a degree a
repetition of facts given elsewhere, we believe that our readers will be glad to
have it as a brief consolidation of the extended treatment given, and also as
having a value from being a portion of a work which is distributed in all parts
of the Pacific Coast. It may be noted here that the bank deposits given in the
directory have very much increased during the past year, as shown by the pres-
ent figures given elsewhere.
We give here selected portions of the directory account:
Yakima is rapidly assuming importance as an industrial center, and in lum-
bering, manufacturing and kindred industries. One of the largest and best-
equipped sawmills and sash, door and box factories in the West is located here.
Several creameries are in operation in and near the city as a result of the rap-
idly growing interest in dairying throughout the country. The large amount
of fruit and vegetables raised nearby is attracting canning and preserving in-
dustries, and such works have already passed the experimental stage, and prom-
ise to assume great importance. The sugar beet industry has been introduced
and a million-dollar sugar factory is now in operation. Apples grown in these
valleys are in great demand in Seattle and other coast cities, under the now
448 HISTORY OF YAKLMA VALLEY
famous name of "Yakima Apples." Large quantities are contracted for yearly
by buyers from Chicago, St. Louis, London and elsewhere. The wholesale and
commission business is well represented, and many other interests are well es-
tablished. The Yakima potato is also famous. The Northern Pacific "Big Baked
Potatoes" come from this valley. There are also large and well-equipped electric
light, gas and water works plants, and the city has a paid fire department with
the most up-to-date equipment in the Northwest. An electric railway is ope-
rating forty-five miles of inter and suburban trackage. The business streets
are paved with brick.
The various mercantile establishments would do credit to a much larger
city. They carry, as a rule, larger stocks and a higher class of goods than is
ordinarily found in a city of this size supported by a farming community. This
is necessary to meet the peculiar demands of its inhabitc.nts and of a thickly
populated community of intelligent and well-to-do people successfully engaged
in diversified and intensified agriculture.
The banks of the city, of which there are five, having a combined capitali-
zation and surplus of $800,000. are among the most stable in the state, and do a
prosperous business. The deposits are now about $6,500,000 [$8,056,000 by later
report] .
To realize the possibilities which lie before the city of Yakima in an indus-
trial and commercial way, as well as in the attainment of a high social and educa-
tional plane, one has only to stop and consider the forces which are at work in its
behalf. The natural center of a large irrigated region, which has wonderfully
developed in the past and must still continue to develop almost without limit, the
city benefits by the upbuilding and development of all parts of it. Irrigation means
the production of large crops. Large crops, requiring more care on a given
amount of land and larger profits, tend to the holding and cultivating of smaller
tracts by those who till the soil. The large products arising from scientific hor-
ticulture also tend to the subdivision of the land and the increase of the number
of holders upon a given area. This, in connection with the fact that it is the
more highly educated and progressive agriculturists who are attracted by the
advantages of an irrigated over a non-irrigated country, easily accounts for the
fact, apparent to all comers, that the people of the Yakirna country are above
the average in general intelligence and progressiveness.
Practically all of the land for three or four miles on all sides of the city
has been subdivided and platted into small tracts of from one to ten acres. This
land sells at from $100 per acre upward, depending upon its location, the char-
acter of the soil, and the state of improvement and cultivation.
Yakima and the surrounding country offer the conditions necessary for
the building of happy homes filled with an intelligent, prosperous and contented
people. In the city there are four newspapers, fifteen churches, a $200,000
Masonic Temple and a $250,000 Federal Building, a $200,000 Catholic Hospital,
and $60,000 Armory, a $65,000 Elks' Home, a good public library supporting
an open reading room for the general public, and four large and well appointed
theatres. The city has an excellent public school system composed of high and
graded schools. An up-to-date Commercial Club looks after the commercial
and industrial interests of the city and valley.
'I . AWKin. ^ AKIMA,
-^r, -..
ALIFOKXIA l'AfKIX(i COKI'OUATIOX ( KVAI'ORATKD FRUIT). YAKFMA
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 449
The Washington State Fair is held here each Fall, commencing the third
week in September and lasting one week. The fair grounds and buildings are
commodious and well equipped, and, under the present capable management,
the fair is fast assuming importance as a state event.
The city is in easy and quick communication with all parts of the sur-
rounding valleys by means of rural delivery mail routes and telephone systems.
Seven rural delivery routes run out from Yakima and there are others in opera-
tion in other parts of the county. Telegraphic service, locally and with the out-
side world, is furnished by the Western Union Telegraph Company and tele-
phone service by the Pacific Telephone & Telegraph Company. The latter com-
pany has a public long distance station in the city and also a local telephone
exchange which covers the city and is being extended into the surrounding
country by the building of lines in different directions.
The climate is mild and invigorating. As is true of all places where irri-
gation must be resorted to in agricultural pursuits, there is a large preponder-
ance of sunshine over cloudy weather. Ordinarily, from the first of March to
the first of December, there is little rain, an abundance of sunshine, and the air
is dry. Owing to the dryness of the atmosphere, changes in the temperature
are not so noticeable as in humid climates; and, while the extreme change of
temperature is perhaps from 15 degrees below zero to 105 above, instances of
extreme heat or cold are of rare occurrence and of short duration. Sunstroke
is unknown.
The county is happy in the possession of the world-known and famous
Yakima Soda Springs, which are situated in the mountains amongst the finest
scenic surroundings, with good fishing and hunting. They may be reached by
automobile from any town around, being thirty miles west by road from Yakima
or nineteen miles from terminus of Yakima Valley Transportation Company
(electric) at Wiley City.
In conclusion, it may be added that, while the attainments of the Yakima
country have been great, the possibilities of the future are far greater. It
stands now in the front rank of agricultural communities in the quantity, diver-
sity and value of its productions, and in the conveniences of modern civiliza-
tion enjoyed by its inhabitants, and the fields of progress are still open and wide.
YAKIM^'S FINANCIAL PART IN THE WORLD WAR
The closing of the World War while these pages are in preparation, seems
to make it fitting that this chapter concerning the official and financial history
of the city close with a view of the financial part taken by city and county in
the war and with our contribution to the fighting strength of Uncle Sam's over-
seas forces. Through the kindness of Mr. O. A. Fechter we are able to present
these figures:
Sale of Liberty Bonds in county to Nlovember 1, 1918 $3,917,951.00
War Savings Stamps in city 167,015.80
Allied War Benevolences, county 371,098.00
(29)
450 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
It may be added that the bank deposits for the city of Yakima amounted at
the last call on November 1, 1918, to $8,056,000.
Yakima's contribution of men to the world war
Valuable though the contributions of money and treasure may have been,,
those of men have been far more valuable.
Yakima County gave a noble tribute of her boys, the best and bravest of
her sons, to the great cause of their country and the world.
Through the kindness of Miss Anthon of "The Republic," we are able to
give the list of those Yakima men who received commissions and those who
gave "the last full measure of devotion." The entire list of men is worthy of
preservation, but our space does not permit. We give first the commissioned
officers :
Yakima's coMiMissioned men
Lieut. Hylas Henry, Yakima.
Lieut. Walter Hoge, Yakima.
Lieut. Francis Brown, Yakima.
Lieut. G. M. Moore, Yakima.
Capt. G. J. Benoit, Yakima.
Lieut. O. A. Blecken, Yakima.
Capt. Glenn A. Ross, Yakima.
Lieut. Lloyd Turnell, Yakima.
Lieut. A. G. Jacobson, Naches.
Lieut. Conrad Alexander, Yakima.
Lieut. Edward Parker, Yakima.
Ensign Albert Baker, Yakima. (Recently promoted junior lieutenant)..
Lieut. Eugene Bradbury, Yakima.
Lieut. Wencil Burianek, Yakima.
Capt. M. C. French, Yakima.
Capt. Marshall Scudder, Yakima.
Lieut. Forrest T. Glenn, Yakima.
Lieut. Howard Hopkirk, Yakima.
Capt. Ayres Johnson, Yakima.
Maj. Ben Sawbridge, Yakima.
Lieut. C. E. Dean, Yakima.
Lieut. Dow Cope, Yakima, (deceased).
Lieut. Francis D. Johnson, Zillah, (deceased).
Capt. Sanford G. Jones, Yakima.
Lieut. Ernest Kershaw, Yakima.
Lieut. William Lindsay, Yakima.
Lieut. Horace S. Rand, Yakima.
Capt. Edwin Rinker, Yakima.
Lieut. George Salzman, Yakima.
Capt. W. W. Stratton, Yakima.
Lieut. Harry Wirt, Yakima.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 451
Lieut. Frank Harrison, Sunnyside.
Lieut. I. E. Benz, Toppenish.
Lieut. Lyman Bunting, Yakima.
Lieut. Dolph Barnett, Yakima.
Capt. Curtiss Gilbert, Yakima.
Lieut. Lex Gamble, Yakima.
Lieut. Walter Tuesley, Yakima.
Lieut. W. H. Boone, Wiley City.
Capt. W. M. Brown, Yakima.
Lieut. W. H. Carver, Yakima.
Capt. W. K. Cocklin, Moxee.
Lieut. W. G. Cornett, Yakima.
Capt. C. T. Dulin, Yakima.
Capt. A. J. Helton, Yakima.
Lieut. J. P. Louden, Yakima.
Lieut. Harry A. Makins, Selah.
Maj. W. L. McClure, Yakima.
Lieut. Lloyd Moffitt, Yakima.
Lieut. J. G. Newgord, Yakima.
Lieut. C. A. Riemcke, Yakima.
Lieut. S. J. Rowland, Toppenish.
Lieut. J. R. Shuman, Sunnyside.
Lieut. H. H. Skinner, Yakima.
Lieut. Lonnie Roberg, Yakima.
Lieut. Kenneth Vaughn, Yakima.
Lieut. Lionel Armstrong, Yakima.
Lieut. S. P. Martin, Yakima (D. S. C). '
Lieut. O. E. Brashears, Yakima.
Lieut. K. C. Bowers, Yakima.
Ensign Charles Westaby, Yakima.
Lieut. Cull White, Cowiche.
Lieut. Milton White, Cowiche.
Lieut. Roy Slasor, Yakima.
Lieut. Ray Venables, Yakima.
Lieut. Albert Lyon, Yakima.
Lieut. Forrest Murdock, Fruitvale.
Lieut. Fred J. W. Soil. Yakima.
Lieut. Fred Clark, Yakima.
Capt. C. E. Keeler, Yakima.
V.\KIM.\'S HONOR ROLL
Of the 2,354 men who have gone from Yakima County to serve the natiorr
on land, on sea or in air, seventy-eight have answered the great call. Of those
for whom the final "taps" has sounded, forty are from this city, while the
others come from elsewhere in the county. They have died bravely on the field
of battle, disappeared into those mists from which the only word to come is
452 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
"missing," passed away in illness at the cantonments or camps, but one and all
have served. Yakima's honor roll contains the names of :
1 — Harrison I. Busey, Yakima, died of disease.
2 — Donald K. Thurmond, Yakima, killed in action.
3 — Walter S. Burnett, Yakima, died of disease.
4 — Edgar L. Hamilton, Yakima, died of disease.
5 — Elmer F. Ross, Yakima, died of disease.
6 — -Sgt. Willis Mason, Yakima, killed in accident.
7 — Fritz Maarten, Yakima, killed in action.
8 — Dave Dukorsky, Yakima, killed in action.
9— Harold S. Wakefield, Yakima, died of disease. ;
10 — -William Wharton, Yakima, killed in action.
11 — Elwood Hayes, Yakima, died of disease.
12 — Braden Shallenberger, Yakima, killed in action.
13 — ^Conrad Hoff, Yakima, killed in action.
14 — George S. Browning, Yakima, killed in accident.
15 — Corp. Preston Myers, Yakima, died of disease.
16 — Walter H. Owens, Yakima, died of disease.
17 — O. A. Kingrey, Yakima, died in accident.
18 — Russell Digby, Yakima, killed in action.
19 — Edward Venn, Yakima, killed in action.
20 — Lieut. Dow Cope, Yakima, killed in action.
21 — Hugh Grant, Yakima, missing in action.
22 — Floyd Painter, Yakima, died of disease.
23 — James Ray Wilkinson, Yakima, killed in action.
24 — Fergus D. Shaw, Yakima, died of disease.
25 — John Paul White, Yakima, died of disease.
26 — William Morrow, Yakima, killed in action.
27 — Robert J. Thompson, Yakima, killed in action.
28 — George L. Newborg, Yakima, killed in action.
29 — Ivan Brokovich, Yakima, killed in action.
30 — Steve Plovich, Yakima, killed in action.
31 — Bugler William D. Yaden, killed in action.
32 — Bernard Parkinson, Yakima, missing in action.
33 — Ross G. Hoisington, Yakima, killed in action.
3A — Herbert Irwin, Yakima, killed in action.
35 — Lieut. Albert Lyon, Yakima, died of disease.
36 — Corp. Logan Wheeler, Yakima, killed in action.
37 — Franklin S. Cross, Yakima, killed in action.
38 — Corp. Clinton S. Brown, Yakima, killed in action.
39 — George M. Porter, Yakima, killed in action.
40 — Eudore Dubuque, Yakima, killed in action.
41 — Emile F. Meystre, Naches, killed in action.
42— George B. Gulp, Naches, killed in accident.
43 — Frank H. Boyle, Toppenish, killed in action.
44 — Russell Barrett, Toppenish. missing in action.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 453
45 — John Tomlinson, Toppenish, died of disease.
46 — Walter Wade, Toppenish, killed in action.
47— Thomas Huntley, Toppenish, missing in action.
48_Harry Peterson, Bickleton, killed in action.
49 — Otto Warner, Sunnyside, died of disease.
50 — Corp. Malcolm Crabtree, Toppenish, killed in action.
51 — Perry Lantz, Sunnyside, died of disease. '
52— Allen Ostrander, Sunnyside, died of disease.
53 — Corp. Cecil Wommack, Sunnyside, killed in action.
5.^ — W. A. Tegtemeyer, Sunnyside, died of disease.
55_Charles Rhine, Wapato, killed in action.
56 — James Schooley, Zillah, died in action.
57— Lieut. F. D. Johnson, Zillah, killed in action.
58— Milford G. DeWolf, Zillah, killed in action.
59— Ole C. Counts, Harrah, killed in action.
60 — Barney Mauch, Harrah, killed in action.
61 — Sydney Butts, Union Gap, killed in accident.
62 — Corp. JuUus Berndt, Union Gap, killed in action.
63 — Harry T. McDaniels, Union Gap, missing in action.
64 — Ira Hixon, Wide Hollow, killed in accident.
65 — Ralph W. Larkin, Harwood, missing in action.
66 — Eugene Snyder, Rimrock, Tuscania victim.
67 — Helge Dale, Grandview, killed in action.
68 — Harry Hayes, Grandview, died of disease.
69 — Fred Hayes, Grandview, killed in action.
70 — George S. McLean, Cowiche, Tuscania victim.
71 — Rollo Knowles, White Swan, died of disease.
72 — James F. Eglin, Tampico, died of disease.
7Z — George de Gooyer, Moxee, died of disease.
7-1 — John H. Remmerden, Moxee, killed in action.
75 — Ferdinand E. Deeringhoff, Moxee, missing in action.
76 — Henry O. Piendl, Mabton, killed in action.
77 — Harry Fenner, Wide Hollow, killed in action.
78 — DeWitt Hagermann, Naches, killed in action.
CHAPTER VI
SCHOOLS, CHURCHES AND SOCIETIES OF YAKIMA
SCHOOLS— STATISTICS OF 1918 DIRECTORY OF TEACHERS. 1917-18 PRIVATE
SCHOOLS WOODCOCK ACADEMY THE CHURCHES AHTANUmI CHURCHiES
AND PASTORS OF YAKIMA AT PRESENT DATE — FRATERNAL ORDERS YAKIMA COM-
MERCIAL CLUB — THE STATE FAIR — "REPUBLICS" WRITE-UP OF FAIR HERALD's
DESCRIPTION OF EVENTS, ETC.
It would be but commonplace to enlarge upon the vital importance to any
genuine American community of the instrumentalities of larger growth covered
by the heading of this cliapter. More vital than the production of wealth is the
disposition to be made of it. Stock and grain and lumber and coal and fruit
and irrigating canals are all well and good, essential, in fact, but what are they
all for? Obviously they have no use except as ministering to life, and life calls
for 'the social, 'moral, intellectual, and esthetic agencies of which schools,
churches, and social and cultural organizations are the expression.
Yakima, like other parts of the state and of the Northwest, has developed
rapidly in the directions indicated. While in the nature of things a new com-
munity must devote its earliest energies to reclaiming land, hewing forests,
o}>ening mines, laying out irrigating canals, importing new breeds of stock and
improved varieties of grain — in short, the purely materialistic concerns — it is
true that the active-minded, free-souled, and ambitious builders of our western
communities quickly create the finer activities which teacli tl;e proper use of the
material and so-called practical.
In this great creation of the refining and elevating factors of life, the
western woman plays a leading part. She is an institution by herself, that
western woman. Whether because in pioneer life there were less women than
men, and hence their relative importance was increased, or that pioneer life,
with all of its hardships, had the capacity to develop both the strength and the
delicacy of feminine nature — it is undoubtedly true that the typical woman of a
community like Yakima or Ellensburg, or the smaller places within these coun-
ties, has acquired a power of initiative and leadership, an independence of
thought and action and a disregard of shallow conventionalities, which, though
perhaps somewhat shocking to the prudish conceptions of more stereotyped re-
gions, constitute one of the great working facts of western life and of Ameri-
can democracy. Hence it is not surprising that woman suffrage, prohibition,
initiative, referendum, recall, and other great popular movements have had their
birth in the West. The activities of women in schools and churches, as well as
in all kinds of societies, social, literary and artistic, have a great field in our
western towns. The men, too, deserve much credit, in that the while they are
454
M^'<,
'',..h
M
;
!U
,_ /
■I';-...
-■■;
\^^.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 455
<ievoted to making the money (and in fact are not usually adapted to any other
function) they are well content to let their women spend it. Possibly they can
not help themselves, but it is true that the average western man takes pride and
pleasure in seeing the judicious use of his money made by his wife and daugh-
ters in beautifying the home and in promoting public movements. While the
western man is strong on "business," he has a hulking sense of religious and
esthetic inferiority in the face of a religious or social crisis, and willingly abdi-
cates in favor of the prime minister; viz., his wife or daughter.
All these general views and conditions have ample illustration in the fine
social and community life of the regions covered by our present story. And
now we shall endeavor to narrate in necessarily brief outline the essential facts
in regard to the educational, religious and social life of Yakima.
Unlike Ellensburg, in which the State Normal is located, or Walla Walla,
in which there are several private institutions of notable character, the educa-
tional interest of Yakima is found almost entirely in the public schools, of the
high school and grammar grades. The Catholics maintain, as they usually do
in larger towns, an academy for girls and another for boys, both excellent in-
stitutions, of which we shall write further. One private academy. Woodcock
Academy, had a worthy and interesting history, but was absorbed by the public
school system. To it, too, we shall devote later attention. There is a first-class
business college, and some special schools. Aside from the schools just named,
the entire educational forces of Yakima County work through the channel of
the public schools.
In the office of the superintendent of Yakima County there is a book which
may truly be called a historic relic of high value. It is the first record of the
first superintendent, laying out the original school districts. George W. Parrish
was that first superintendent. The following is his first entry: "I was appointed
school superintendent by the county commissioners on the first Monday of
February, 1868. I had no predecessor, consequently no records or precedents
in the county by which to act. The settlements were few and far between. It
became my duty to divide the county into school districts, which I did, making
most of them large, contemplating their subdivision as the public welfare might
require. The following is a statement of the boundaries and numbers of the
several districts of Yakima County, W. T., to-wit :"
The first four districts were laid out on June 28, 1868. We quote further
the language of the report in regard to those four districts.
District No. One is as follows:
"Application for its formation was made by Mr. F. M. Thorp. A notice
of its boundaries was sent to him on the 28th day of June, 1868. It is bounded
as follows : Commencing on Yakima River two miles south of the Third Stand-
ard Parallel, thence due east to Columbia River, thence up said river to the
Fourth Standard parallel line, thence west along said line to Range 20 east,
thence due south to town 13 north on said range, thence due west to Yakima
River, thence down said river to place of beginning.
456 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
District No. Two:
By af)plication notice was sent to Mr. Walter Lindsey on the 28th day of
June, 1868. It is bounded : Commencing on Atahnam River at the crossing
of the line between Ranges 17 and 18 east; thence north along said line to
Matchez River; thence down said river to Yakima River; thence down said
river to Athanam River; thence up Atahnam River to the place of beginning.
District No. Three:
Notice was sent to Mr. Joseph Bowzer on the 28th of June, 1868. It is
bounded so as to include all that part of the county between Njatchez and
Atahnam rivers west of the line between Ranges 17 and 18.
District No. Four:
Notice for the creation of District No. 4 was sent to G. G. Taylor on June
28th, 1868. It begins at the mouth of the Natchez River ; thence up said river
to the summit of the Cascade Mountains and along the range to the divide
between Wenass and Umtanum creeks ; thence to the Yakima River and down
said river to place of beginning."
District No. 5 was formed later and notice of its formation sent to E.
French on October 16, 1868. It included all the country north and east of
Yakima River and south of District No. 1. Districts 6 and 7 were laid out
soon after No. 5, with the intention of including the rest of the county. But
they were not organized; and the numbers subsequently appeared with differ-
ent boundaries. Hence we may regard the first five districts as the "charter dis-
tricts" of Yakima County. As may be seen by an inspection of the map. Dis-
trict No. 1 included a large part of Benton County, a considerable part of
Kittitas, and the broken country east and northeast of Selah on the east side of
the river. The only inhabited part of it at that time was the Moxee settlement,
on account of which, in fact, it was established. No. 2 embraced the region
between the Atahnum and Naches, thus covering the site of Yakima, Nob Hill,
the Cowiche, Wide Hollow, and the chief part of the Atahnum country. The
Sunnyside, Grandview, Zillah, Granger and allied regions came in No. 5.
The second superintendent was C. P. Cooke, one of the best educated and
most honored of Yakima pioneers, who came to the Moxee in 1867, and in
1870 went to the Kittitas, settling ten miles north of Ellensburg. Mr. Cooke
made many changes in the boundaries of the districts. In 1868 the number of
pupils reported was as follows: No. 1, 15; No. 2, 31; No. 3, 24; Nb. 4, 23;
No. 5, 23; total 116. In 1869 the number had increased to 130.
A list of the teachers receiving certificates, or "licenses." as they were then
called, may be of much interest. As may be seen, the feminine element was not
so marked in the pedagogical profession then as now. That list may be consid-
ered the advance guard of Yakima teachers.
The Hst for 1869, 1870, 1871 and 1872, was this: Philip Long. Mrs. Martha
H .Mattoon, James Bland, Libranis Maxon, Joseph O. Clark, J. P. Marks. G.
W. Parrish, O. Williams, J. R. Filkin, I. W. Hambleton, N. H. Clayton, Miss
Letitia Wakker, Mrs. I. L. Lewis, Mr. Frisbee, Mrs. M. J. Benton, Miss M.
O'Neil, Mr. Mead, Wm. N. Goff, Mr. E. B. Lewis, Mrs. S. L. Simpson, J. W.
Masters, P. Kelly, R. M. Beck, J. R. Schnebly, G. W. Pratt, James Beck,
Thomas Vaughn.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 457
The amount of school tax in 1867 was zero; in 1868, $275.64; in 1869,
$404.76. In 1874, the amount had risen to $1,408.46, while in 1875 it was
$1,653.06. From the report of Superintendent Parrish in 1868 it appears that
there were no school buildings or libraries.
It must be remembered that the figures just given are for the entire area
embracing the three present counties. They certainly make a remarkable com-
parison with the statistics of 1917 and 1918, a half century later. We shall, of
course, give those at greater length, but we give here simply for comparison, the
census of 1917 which included 13,567 boys and girls in sixty-one districts. Thir-
ty-six districts maintained more than one department. The number of teachers
was 386, and the total expenses were $451,895.27. That was for Yakima County
alone. The addition of Kittitas and Benton would add fifty per cent, or more to
those figures.
The first school in the Yakima Valley, according to Leonard Thorp, to
whom we have referred often as an authority, was a private school for the chil-
dren of F. M. Thorp at his place in the Moxee. The teacher was Mrs. Letitia
Flett Haines, a well-educated young woman from a prominent pioneer family
of western OTegon. Her husband was one of the first incomers after the
Thorps. They had a little girl, who with the Thorp children constituted the en-
tire juvenile population of the Yakima country. According to Mr. Thorp's
remembrence the first teacher in a public school was Martha Beck. The loca-
tion was midway between Yakima City and the site of the later Nbrth Yakima.
That must have been in 1868. Doctor Clark was the next teacher.
It would not be possible to enumerate the builders who contributed year
by year to the development of the system of schools as they have come to be.
One of the most often referred to by those who were reared in Yakima was
Mrs. Ella Purker Stair. Not only a capable and popular teacher, but a brilliant
woman, a leader in all social and philanthropic, as well as educational activities,
Mrs. Stair left an influence and a name which is cherished by hundreds of the
present mature generation of Yakima. She was born in Nebraska and at the
age of twenty was married to David Stair. Mr. Stair v;as a lawyer, and in
1877 went with his young wife to Yakima where he entered upon the work of
his profession. But like many other professional and business men he became
enamoured of the outdoor life of the fruit rancher and established a ranch on
the Ahtanum. He died in 1896. Mrs. Stair became count}- superintendent in
1884. She was a teacher in the county schools and then became principal of
the high school, which position she held for a number of years.
D. C. Reed was identified for a number of years with the schools of the
county and city, and may justly be named as one of the most constant and
effective of the builders. One of the honored educators of the valley, though
not a teacher in Yakima, was B. F. Barge, first principal of the State Normal
School at Ellensburg. In 1894 Professor Barge resigned his position in the
Normal, after three years' service, and took up his home at Yakima. There he
engaged in land development and became one of the early promoters of large-
scale irrigation enterprises. All the time, however, he wr.s an active force in
educational lines. He was a member of the school board for a number of
terms and a constant leader in educational improvement.
458 HISTORY OF YAKHIA \-ALLEY
As a general view of the Yakima schools at a date intermediate between
the beginnings and the present we may describe them as they existed in 1902.
At that time there were three brick buildings. In one the high school was
domiciled, and this was located on North Third Street between D and E. An-
other was the Central School on South Second Street between Walnut and
Spruce. The Columbia was the third school building, on North Kittitas Avenue
between B and C. There was also what was known as the Lincoln Annex, part
of the high school. There was still another northwest of town known as the
Fairview. At that date the school board consisted of Prof. B. F. Barge as
chairman ; Ralph R. Nichols ; Miles Cannon ; and Robert S. Hough, as clerk.
The high school faculty consisted of Mrs. Ella Stair, principal ; L. M. Seroggs,
Eva May, Berdina Hole, Grace Shannon, Kate McKinney, Elizabeth Prior and
Albertina Rodman. The principal of the Central School was A. W. Schwartz,
assisted by Clara E. Bullan, Beulah E. Oilman, Maude L. Patterson, Charlotte
Lum, Anna Jungst, Minnie Larsen and Carrie Young. Lulu Meeds was prin-
cipal of the Columbia School, and her teachers were Bessie Aumiller, Bessie
Ballinger, Avanelle Cans, Ethel Burns, Mrs. Edna Miller, Jennie Sherwood,
Mary Young and Lois Whittle. In the Lincoln Annex. Mrs. Ella Needham,
Ella Howland and Berdie Moore were the teachers. In the Fairview, Florence
McWain was the teacher.
Turning from those views of the schools at the beginning and the middle
•of their history we may now present the present-day statistics. Through the
kindness of Mrs. Anna R. Nichols, county superintendent, we are able to pre-
sent these figures upon the present-day conditions for the county.
ST.A.TISTICS OF 1918
Number of districts 60
Number of high schools 22
Number of teachers 396
School census 14,118
Enrollment for year 11,870
Current expenses S 451,895.27
Value of school buildings and grounds 1,275,828.0(?
Value of apparatus, furniture and books 166,752.00
The number of teachers in the Yakima city schools, including the high
■school, is 103. The high school building of the early period was destroyed by
fire, and the present spacious and stately building was erected in 1908.
At this point we insert a list of the present districts, with names of schools
and number of teachers in each.
SCHOOL DISTRICTS OF Y.XKIMA COUNTY, 1919-1920
No. of
Dist. No. Name of Sclwo!. Teachers.
2 Union Gap 4
3 Marks 3
5 Parker Bottom 3
MARQUETTE SCHOOL, YAKi:\[A
HISTORY OF YAKIMA ^■ALLEY
6 Ahtanum City 4
7 Yakima City Schools 105
8 Armstrong i
9 Tampico i
10 Cowiche 7
11 Cowan I
14 Tieton 4
15 Cleman j
24 Dorothy i
25 Fruitvale 3
26 Wide Hollow . /-^___.._ 5
28 Nob Hill " 6
29 Nile "' I
31 Liberty 4
32 Zillah City Schools '_" g
33 South Broadway 2
34 Outlook
35 Wanita
36 Mabton City Schools 9
37 Belma
39 Selah Schools
52 Wenas
54
42 Canyon Castle i
49 Toppenish City Schools 26
50 Springdale 7
51 Orchardvale 3
1
Wapato Schools 22
57 East Selah "__"_ 2
61 Donoho ^
63 Sunnyside Schools 3Q
67 Wheatland '"" "" i
73 Small ..____ 1
74 - Lower Tampico i
81 Grandview Schools _ _ 17
82 Wheatland ----"_'""."" \ 1
84 Pleasant Valley i
85 Spring Creek 2
86 East Parker '_]l " 1
87 Byron _ j
88 White Swan "_..'.._."_" 5
89 Lower Neches High School 9
90 Moxee Con. Schools ' I5
91 Naches Citv " «
92 Wendell Phillips 7
93 Upper Wenas-Umptanum 2
94 Granger Schools 9
460 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
96 Wiley City 2 |
97 Priest Rapids 1 (
98 Lincoln 2 1
99 Marcus Whitman 2 !
100 Parker 3 1
101 South Naches
102 Mt. Clemans
103 Oak Creek
104 Plain View
105 Alkali Canyon
106 Tietonview 4
Believing that many readers in the future, recognizing the great part per-
formed in the upbuilding of the different communities by the teachers, will be
glad to have a directory of the teachers at the date of this publication, we include
also such a directory.
DIRECTORY OF TEACHERS OF YAKIMA COUNTY, 1917-1918
Mrs. Anna R. Nichols, Superintendent
• — District 2 — Union Gap —
W. H. Zuber, Principal, Yakima, 112 South Eleventh Avenue.
Ada Dalton, Yakima, Route 2.
Esther Dingle, Yakima, 112 South Fourth Street.
Winnifred Makens, Union Gap.
— District 3— Marks School —
S. W. Bennington, Principal, Yakima, Route 5.
Isabella Getsch, Yakima, Route 1.
Esther Rutherford, Yakima, Route 5.
— District 5 — Parker Bottom School—
E. J. Williams, Principal, Wapato, Route 2.
Mrs. Lillian Swart, Wapato, Route 2.
Isabelle Hoffman, Wapato, Route 2.
— District 6 — Ahtanum City School —
W. E. Thomas, Principal, Yakima, Route 5.
Rosalia Strobach, Yakima, 202 North Naches.
Charity Neflf, Yakima, Route 5.
Mollie Brown, Yakima, Route 5.
— District 7 — Yakima City Schools —
A. C. Davis, Superintendent, Yakima, 702 South Nintli Avenue.
High School
F. J. Dollinger, Principal, Hotel Savoy, Yakima.
Elizabeth Prior, 210 North Third Street.
Jennie S. Webster, 5 North Seventh Street.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 461
Frances H. Galloway, 7 North Naches Avenue.
Alfaretta M. Gregg, 102 South Xaches Avenue.
Foster H. Kreis, 111 North Naches Avenue.
Lynn H. Smith, 210>4 South Seventh Avenue.
Alice M. Tenneson, 115 Park Avenue.
Efifie S. Klise, 7 North N&ches Avenue.
Herbert H. Trueblood, 203 South Fourth Street.
Anna M. Whitney, 308 South Seventh Avenue.
Knute Christensen, 12 North Naches Avenue.
Mabel C. Moysey, Yakima, Route 4.
Otto P. Ramsey, 417 North Miles Avenue.
Leslie S. Rosser, 15 South Sixth Street.
Ruth F. Johnson, Yakima, Route 3.
C. A. Palmer, 624 South Eighteenth Avenue.
C. S. Cole, 1213 West Chestnut Street.
Lillian D. Wheeler, 102 South Naches Avenue.
J. Adella Hermann, 308 North Second Street.
Louise S. Bragdon, 412 East B Street.
Marie Sander, 412 East B Street.
J. S. Staley, 1408 East Yakima Avenue.
Tempie Spaulding, 207 North Sixth Street.
Irene L. Stewart, Baker Avenue.
Alice M. Hodge, 7 North Naches Avenue.
Zoe A. Shafer, 7 South Naches Avenue.
Martin B. Hevly, 12 North Naches Avenue.
Bertha Wills, 3 North Naches Avenue.
G. Ottaiano, 217 South Eighth Street.
Mrs. Alice I. Howatt, 401 North Fourth Street.
Lillian B. Sylvester, 402 North Second Street.
James G. Bailie, 305 South Sixth Street.
Arthur C. Pierce, Grand Hotel.
Barge School
Lulu Meeds, Principal, Yakima, Route 4.
Effie D. Jones, 605 North Third Street.
Grace M. Brock, 416 North Second Street.
Blanche L. Sundiff, 111 North Naches Avenue.
Nettie Dunning, 401 North Fourth Street.
Bessie Richardson, 112 South Eighth Street.
Mabel Ruscher, Baker Avenue.
Anna M. Crawford, 307 North Second Street.
Alpha Roberts, 409 North Second Street.
Central School
Carolyn S. Young, Principal, Yakima, Route 7.
Ruth Childs, Yakima, Route 2.
Elizabeth Waldron, 305 South Sixth Street.
Nina E. Irish, 303 South Sixth Street.
462 HISTORY OF YAKniA VALLEY
Minnie Noble, 705 East A Street.
Nellie McKinney, 12 North Eleventh Avenue.
Pearl L. Weeber, 116 Park Avenue.
Myrtle J. Peile, 303 South Sixth Street.
Anna Mattel, 12 South Naches Avenue.
Jean Porter, 305 South Sixth Street.
Emma D. Scholes, Yakima, Route 6.
Columbia School
S. W. Ness, Principal, Yakima, Route 3.
Annabelle Tufts, 713 North Fourth Street.
Frances Aiken, Nob Hill.
Edith W. Rundstrom, 310>^ South Sixth Street.
Grace G. Shrader, Grendview Avenue.
Ella L. McGill, 409 North Second Street.
Sallie Smith, Yakima, Route 7.
Myrtle Calkins, 610 Thirteenth Avenue South.
Caroline Sharp, 410 East B Street.
L. Pearle Hibarger, 116 North Naches Avenue.
Sarah N. Danforth, 7 South Naches Avenue.
Louise DeGraff, 1411 West Yakima Avenue.
Fairview School
L. Maud Bowman, Principal, 5 North Seventh Street.
Bessie A. White, 114 North Eighth Street.
Rose Rogers, 15 South Sixth Street.
Ruth Galbraith, 210 North Third Street.
Edna Clyne, 114 South Eighth Street.
Mary H. Mason, 313 South Fourth Street.
Kathleen Sainsbury, Baker Avenue.
Edna C. Skinner, 5 North Seventh Street.
Anna C. Hahn, 112 North Third Street.
Garfield School
Mary V. Barton, Principal, 1511 West Chestnut Street.
Emma B. Horsley, 3 North Naches Avenue.
Emma Johnson, 407 North Second Street.
Ethel Miller, Yakima, Route 3.
Lincoln School
Fanny A. Smyser, Principal, 329 East A Street.
Edna J. Hunt, 316 North Second Avenue.
Ernestine Corkery, 401A North Fourth Street.
Alice Wilhelm, 610 North Naches Avenue.
Grace Hall, 316 North Second Avenue.
Anna M. Quigley, 312 North Fourth Street.
Sarah P. Forman, 117 North Fourth Street.
TIETON SCHOOL
HISTORY OF YAKLMA VALLEY 463
McKinley School
Grace E. Bigford, Principal, 705 South Fourteenth Avenue.
Mary E. Keppel, Yakima, Route 7.
Ida Cawdry, 311 South Tenth Avenue.
Ruth Duncan, 16 South Naches Avenue.
Anne C. Yenney, 610 South Thirteenth Avenue.
Mabel Bostad, 3 North Naches Avenue.
Anna Miller, 424 South Sixteenth Avenue.
Daisy Burkholder, Nob Hill.
Sadie Leppert, 111 North Naches Avenue.
Leila Sutherland, 404 South Seventh Avenue.
Summit Viezv School
Grace Shannon, Principal, Yakima Route 4.
Kate Hitz, 401 North Fourth Street.
Irene Peckham, 7 South Eighth Street.
Mabel Hough, 706 East Yakima Avenue.
Ethel Bartholomew, 116 North Naches Avenue.
Allene White, 510 North Second Street.
Rose Kochendorfer, Yakima, Route 2.
Ella M. Bandy, Baker Avenue.
Clara White, 1 14 North Eighth Street.
—District 8 — Armstrong School —
Inez Decoto, Yakima, Route 7, care of W. C. Cope.
District 9 — Tampico School —
Elizabeth Hess, Yakima, Route 5.
—District 10— Cowiche High School-
Virgil F. Adams, Principal, Cowiche, Wash.
Harriot Pugsley, Tieton, care J. O. Strand.
Viola Rockett, Cowiche.
Emily Simmons, Cowiche.
Gretchen Case, Cowiche.
— Rimrock School —
Claribel Glidden, Rimrock.
Mrs. Carrie Millard, Rimrock.
— District 11 — Cowan School —
Helen Mclver, Selah, Route 1.
— District 14 — Tieton School —
I. W. Bowman, Principal, Tieton.
Clara Christiansen, Tieton.
Beulah Nord, Tieton.
Corine Culmsee, Tieton.
464 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
— District 15 — Cleman School —
Minnie M. Jewell, Selah, Route 1.
— District 2-1 — Dorothy School —
Mary L. Ganders, Mabton.
— District 25 — Fruitvale School —
Mae L. Mark, Principal, Yakima, Box 977.
Mildred Watts, Yakima, Route 3.
Myrtle Steele, Fourth Avenue, N]orth.
Jessie Stuart, Yakima, R. 3, care Mrs. Dickey.
—District 26— Wide Hollow School—
J. K. Busch, Principal, Yakima, Route 4.
Mrs. N. Gothberg, Yakima, Route 4.
Rosella Hamilton, Yakima, Route 4.
Margaret Hamilton, Yakima, Route 4.
Mary Glaspey, Yakima, Route 4.
—District 28— Nob Hill School-
Fred G. Weller, Principal, Yakima, Route 2.
Mrs. E. W. Bell, 703 South Fourteenth Avenue.
Eva Mabry, 512 North First Street.
Mina Matterson, Yakima, Route 7.
Mrs. Irene Beedle, 207 South Eleventh Avenue.
Delia Scott, 1408 West Yakima Avenue.
—District 29— Niile School-
Ethel Langvvorthy, Naches.
— District 31 — Liberty School —
C. M. Turner, Principal, Outlook, Route 1.
Ruth Moore, Outlook, Route 1.
Margaret Bowen, Outlook, Route 1.
Ethel Price. Outlook, Route 1.
— District 2>2 — Zillah School —
J. F. Hargreaves, Superintendent, Zillah.
E. M. Douglass, Zillah.
Gertrude Acheson, Zillah.
Helen Dunn, Zillah.
Silva Smith, Zillah.
Anna M. Bell. Zillah.
Frank Robertson, Zillah.
Dorothy Williams, Zillah.
— District 33 — South Broadway School—
A. C. Blodgett, Principal, Yakima, Route 7.
Mrs. A. C. Blodgett, Yakima, Route 7.
Marie Pierson, Yakima, Route 7.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 465
— District 34 — Outlook School —
Marius Hansome, Superintendent, Outlook, Box 205.
Harriet T. Hansome, Outlook, Box 205.
Gertrude Duffy, Outlook.
F. L. Buchanan, Outlook.
Lydia O. Golinger, Outlook.
Cora Middleton, Outlook.
Elizabeth Everett, Outlook, care Sam Enoch.
Fanny L. Grant, Outlook.
Hattie Gemmell, Outlook.
Maude Scheyer, Outlook.
— District 35 — Wanita School —
Rose Munson, Principal, Grandview, Route 1.
Frances O. Dudley, Grandview, Route I.
— District 36 — Mabton City Schools —
E. F. Hultgrann, Superintendent, Mabton.
O. H. Billings, Principal High School, Mabton.
Caroline E. Bailey, Mabton.
Anna Steendahl, Mabton.
Erma Olin, Mabton.
— Washington School —
Mrs. Louise Vanney, Principal, Mabton.
Grace Carrell, Mabton.
Martha Tufts, Mabton.
Belle A. Piendl, Mabton.
— District 37 — Belma School —
F. E. Dilling, Principal, Grandview, Route 2.
Edna Young, Mabton.
Lenore Martin, Mabton.
—District 39— Selah Schools—
A. L. Thomsen, Superintendent, Selah, Route 2.
F. G. Murdock, Principal High School, Selah.
K. K. Thompson, Yakima, 7 South Sixteenth Avenue.
Nancy Neighbors, Yakima, 308 North Second Street.
Sadie Dunlap, Selah.
Harry Sharpe, Yakima, 811 Fourteenth Avenue, South.
F. C. Fogelquist, Selah, Route 2.
Franc DeGraff, Yakima, 1411 West Yakima Avenue.
Vera O. Barkley, Yakima, 304 South Twelfth Avenue.
Meda Bessey. Selah, Route 2.
Veva Benham, Yakima, 404 South Seventh Street.
Rachael Schmidt, Yakima, 405 Cherry Street.
(30)
466 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
— Selah Heights—
Isabelle Newgard, Selah, R. 2, care Mr. Gore.
—Pleasant Hill-
Jennie Shuman, Naches.
— Taylor —
Grace Anderson, Selah.
— Extension —
Mrs. Bessie Norton, Selah, Route 2.
— District 42 — Canyon Castle School —
Edith L. Day, Yakima, Route 3, Box 434.
— District 49 — Toppenish City Schools-
E. T. Robinson, Toppenish.
— High School —
D. F. Olds, Principal, Toppenish.
M. O. Monroe, Toppenish.
Bessie N. Saxton, Toppenish.
Leota Trimble, Toppenish.
Florence L. Grime, Toppenish.
Flora B. Salladay, Toppenish.
Magdalen Scott, Toppenish.
— Lincoln School —
W. H. Scale, Principal, Toppenish.
Emily Smith, Toppenish.
Laura M. Sperber, Toppenish.
Maria Yeaman, Toppenish.
Gertrude Link, Toppenish.
Helen Jenks, Toppenish.
Celia Upham, Toppenish.
Ethel M. Lichty, Toppenish.
— Garfield School —
H. W. Ehlert, Principal, Toppenish.
Etta H. Tregloan, Toppenish.
Maude S. Wight, Toppenish.
Lena H. Glenn, Toppenish.
Mrs. B. Grace Melrose, Toppenish.
Zetta M. Gage, Toppenish.
Lula M. Brown, Toppenish.
— McKinley School —
W. E. Weir, Toppenish.
May Weir, Toppenish.
— District 50 — Springdale School —
Ella D. King, Principal, Jonathan.
J. C. Martin, Zillah, Route 1.
LINCOLN SCHOOL, TOPPENI
GARFIELD SCHOOL, TOP
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 467
Lola M. Davis, Jonathan.
Grace A. White, Jonathan.
Bertha Hevly, Jonathan.
Mary Oakes, Jonathan.
OHve Mackay, Jonathan.
— District 51 — Orchardvale School —
L. M. Rowe, Principal, Granger, Route 1.
Frances Witte, Granger, Route 1.
Ada L. Rowe, Granger, Route L
— District 52 — Wenas School —
Dehlia Johnson, Selah, Route 1.
— District 5^1 — Wapato Schools —
C. F. Shangle, Superintendent, Wapato.
— High School —
C. A. Arpke, Principal, Wapato.
Gladys L. Keyes, Wapato.
Blanche Morris, Wapato.
Nell Ross Brown, Wapato.
A. W. Wheeler, Wapato.
— Central School —
H. C. Vesper, Principal, Wapato.
Mary Bennett, Wapato.
Ida Perkins, Wapato.
Lucile Lincoln, Wapato.
Jessie M. Cobb, Wapato.
Myrtle Keefe, Wapato.
Hazel Cobb, Wapato.
Jenny Olson, Wapato.
— Harrah School —
F. G. Bennett, Principal, Wapato.
Leanah Bailey, Harrah.
Marion Selleck, Harrah.
— Bradshaw School —
Mrs. Graham Moore, Wapato.
— Liberty School —
Verl Bardwell, Wapato.
— Guyette School —
Cordelia Howland, Wapato.
— Le Roue School —
Noella Gendron, Toppenish.
Mrs. Zula Baisden, Special Teacher in Art, etc.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
—District 57— East Selah School—
J. F. Martin, Principal, Pomona.
Alice Love Smith, Pomona.
—District 61 — Donoho School —
Mae McDougall, Bickleton.
— District 63 — Sunnyside Schools —
O. W. Hoffman, Superintendent, Sunnyside.
— -High School —
A. O. Rader, Principal, Sunnyside.
Harriet B. Merritt, Sunnyside.
Virginia Baker, Sunnyside.
Mabel Treasher, Sunnyside.
Ruth Dice, Sunnyside.
Enoch Torpen, Sunnyside.
Martin Brandon, Sunnyside.
Ethel McAssey, Sunnyside.
Dorothy Strachan, Sunnyside.
— Departmental —
li. C. Hiches, Principal, Sunnyside.
Mrs. H. C. Hiches, Sunnyside.
Ethel Scott, Sunnyside.
— Denny Blaine —
Avery Walter, Principal, Sunnyside.
Florence Pratt, Sunnyside.
Mary Brown, Sunnyside.
Winifred Thomas, Sunnyside.
Grace -Moore, Sunnyside.
Eva Scott Nichoson, Sunnyside.
Verone Schvvalbe, Sunnyside.
Lillabelle Scott, Sunnyside.
— Washington School —
M. A. Thompson, Sunnyside.
Celia Thompson, Sunnyside.
Beryl Ring, Sunnyside.
— Maple Grove School —
Forest Bredon, Sunnyside.
Margaret Chambers, Sunnyside.
Grace Snyder, Sunnyside.
—Orchard Ridges School —
Frances Mcintosh, Sunnyside.
1
.
'**^2^**^
&^
1
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 469
— Emerson School —
Ruth Larson, Sunnyside.
Mary I. Stanyar, Sunnyside.
—District 67— Wheatland School-
Mrs. Ray R. Colby, Mabton, Box 327.
— District 7i — Small School —
Winifred Howard, Mabton.
— District 7A — Lower Tampico School —
Olivia Eschbach, Yakima, Route 5.
—District 78— Wilson School-
Helen Schonhard, Mabton, Wash.
— District 81 — Grandview Schools —
A. C. Kellogg, Superintendent, Grandview.
— Central School —
D. M. Callaghan, Principal, Grandview.
Mrs. Harriet Stow, Grandview.
Mildred Robinson, Grandview.
Rosa N. Drew, Grandview.
H. Kenneth Ramnley, Grandview.
William H. Boyd, Grandview.
Anna Corney, Grandview.
Ethel Baker, Grandview.
Helen Davidson, Grandview.
Luella E. Squibb, Grandview.
Nellie Beck, Grandview.
Mary Grant, Grandview.
— Euclid School —
Jennie Rose, Grandview.
Jean Ewart, Grandview.
— Bethany School —
Amelia Johnson, Grandview.
Clara Behnke, Grandview.
—District 82— Wheatland School—
L. Fern Brown, Sunnyside.
— District 84 — Pleasant Valley School —
Nina Pontius, Yakima, Box 1324.
— District 85 — Spring Creek School —
Lillian A. Graham, Yakima, Box 265.
—District 86— East Parker School-
Clara M. Johnson, Wapato, Route 2.
470 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
— District 87 — Byron School —
J. G. Hill, Byron.
—District 88— White Swan School—
C. A. Payne, Principal, White Swan.
Mrs. Camilla Payne, White Swan.
Clara Gordon, White Swan.
Nina Stearns, White Swan.
Margaret Row, White Swan.
— District 89 — Lower Niaches High School —
W. P. Tyler, Principal, Yakima, Route 6.
Lolo L. Cox, 315 North Third Avenue.
Marianne King, 308 North Second Street.
Miriam Moody, 308 North Second Street.
Victoria Tonnemaker, Yakima, General Delivery.
Helen Marion, 315 North Third Avenue.
— Central School —
Clare L. Martin, 301 South Third Street.
— Dobie School —
Grace Folsom, Yakima, Route 6.
— Gleed School —
Genie Berard, 707 North First Street.
— District 90 — Moxee Consolidated Schools^
Arthur L. Larsen, Superintendent, Yakima, Route \.
— Central School —
John G. Gaiser, Principal, Yakima, Route I.
Guy W. Thompson, Yakima, Route 1.
Mrs. Beryl Bruff, Yakima, 501 South Seventh Avenue.
Lena Getsch, Yakima, Route I.
Audrey Burtch, Yakima, Route 1.
Sallie Walker, Moxee City.
R. L. Dailey, Moxee City.
— Terrace Heights —
Ettie Bruff, Yakima, 501 South Seventh Avenue.
— Riverside School —
Mrs. Lucile Needham, Yakima, Route 1.
— Old Moxee School —
Alle Miller, Yakima, Route 1.
— French School —
Mrs. Elizabeth Morris, Yakima, 501 South Seventh Avenue.
riHLir SCHOOL, GRAXDVIEW
ff^
•Mi., I,T
tmM
HIGH SCHOOL, GRAXDVIEW
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 471
— Moxee City School —
Lulu Thompson, Yakima, Route 1.
— Artesia —
Sally Walker, Moxee City.
—Black Rock-
Grace Shaw, Moxee City.
Elsie Ainslie, Moxee City.
— District 91 — Naches City School —
J. M. Campbell, Superintendent, Niches.
John E. Gabrielson, Naches.
Mabel E. Meyer, Naches.
Mrs. Sue Potter, Naches.
Verona Armbruster, Naches.
Myra R. Harrold, Naches.
Mildred L. Campbell, Naches.
Olive Jackson, Naches.
—District 92— Wendell Phillips Consolidated Schools—
E. L. Nichols, Superintendent, Sunnyside, Route 1.
J. B. Hergesheimer, Sunnyside, Route 1.
Beatrice H. Carpenter, Sunnyside, Route I.
Laura Sisson, Sunnyside, Route I.
Ella Hood, Sunnyside, Route 1.
— Green Valley School —
Elda Pratt, Mabton, Route L
— Riverside School —
Frankie Dinsmore, Sunnyside, Route 1.
— District 93— Upper Wenas School —
Cecile Burge, Wenas.
— Umptanum School —
Esther Simmonds, Ellensburg.
— District 94 — Granger Schools —
F. W. Griffiths, Superintendent and Principal High School, Granger.
A. Eleanor Schlots, Granger.
Frances W. Carlton, Granger.
— Central Building —
Irvin D. Latham, Granger.
Marie Maddox, Granger.
Ruth A. Spencer, Granger.
Dorothy de la Pole, Granger.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
—Alfalfa School—
J. A. Winspear, Alfalfa.
— Satus School —
Erma Northern, Satus.
— District 96 — Wiley City School —
Mrs. Grace Oliver, Wiley City.
Miss Katherine Foster, Wiley City.
— District 97 — Priest Rapids School —
Eleanor Korth, Priest Rapids.
— District 98 — Lincoln School —
Clara M. Vinup, Principal, Granger.
Stella Price, Granger.
— District 99 — Marcus Whitman School —
Mrs. Annie Wilkins, Naches.
—District 100— Parker School—
C. C. Vesper, Union Gap.
Viola Lincoln, Yakima.
Florence Oliver, Selah.
— District 101— South Naches School —
Susie Pickett, Naches, Route 1.
— District 102— Mt. Clemans School —
Gladys Johnson, Naches.
— District 103 — Oak Creek School —
Mrs. Helen T. Bent, Naches.
— District 10^ — Plain View School —
Mary Geneva Martin, Mabton.
— District 105 — Alkali Canyon School —
Emma Haviland, Yakima.
— District 106 — Tietonview School —
Martha B. Douglas, Yakima, Route 2.
Catherine Cowan, Yakima, Route 2.
— Cottonwood School —
Verna Eastman, Harwood.
— Willow Lawn School —
Ina Wright, Yakima, Route 2.
ST. PAUL'S PAROCHIAL SCHOOL, YAKIMA
— -^^fil^ -^^^
ST. f^LIZABKTirS HOSPITAL, YAKIMA
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 475
PRIVATE SCHOOLS
As noted before the private schools of Yakima County consist at the present
time mainly of a group of schools under the management of the Catholic de-
nomination.
As given in the county superintendent's report these schools are as follows :
Marquette College for boys of academic grade, in charge of Fathers Buschore
and Brustin ; St. Joseph's Academy, in charge of Sister Joseph of Nazareth, with
Father Armstrong; St. Paul's Parochial School, in charge of Sister Mary
Alphonsa. All the above are in Yakima. Marquette College has a splendid
stone building, the erection of which in 1910 was largely due to the energy and
vision of Father Conrad Brustin, pastor of St. Joseph's Catholic Church. Father
Brustin, a native of Germany, came to the United States in 1889, and after a
varied experience as student, pastor, and teacher in St. Louis, Spokane, St. Regis
Mission at Colville, and Seattle, he came to Yakima as pa.=tor of St. Joseph's
Church in 1904. Marquette College gives instruction from fifth grade work up
to the high school and has a present attendance of eighty-five.
St. Joseph's Academy for girls was established in the early days of 1887 as
an Indian school, but became entirely a white school within a few years. It, like
Marquette College, is splendidly housed and equipped and in a position to impart
high-grade instruction, especially in the lines of music, art, and language. The
enrollment of the past year shows three hundred pupils. At Moxee City there
is a Catholic school, the Holy Rosary, in charge of Sister Catherine.
There is a Seventh Day Adventist school at Yakima in charge of R. F. Beail
and Lucy Andrews.
There has been maintained for a number of years an excellent Kindergarten
school by Alice B. Scudder.
We find also a school promoted by St. Paul's Lutheran Church, in charge of
O. M. Mantey. Besides the above private schools we find in the Xaches Valley
{lie Locust Grove Intermediate School in charge of C. S. Channing and L. I.
Stiles. At Ft. Simcoe is the Government Indian School, in general charge of
the agent, Donn M. Carr.
The Yakima Business College is one of the notable institutions of Yakima,
and in its field is one of the leaders in eastern Washington. The manager and
proprietor is Professor S. Van Vleet. This accomplished educator came from
Aurora, N. Y., to Yakima in 1906. He established the business college soon after
his arrival, conducting it in the Union Block for six years. It has been for
nearly six years in its present quarters in the Clogg Building. The usual number
of students is 150, varying a good deal, as business colleges are apt to, with the
season and the opportunities for employment for the pupils. The constant de-
mand for stenographers, typewriters, and well instructed bookkeepers is met to
considerable degree by Professor Van Vleet's pupils, and thus it has become one
of the business necessities and assets of Yakima.
In many respects the most interesting private school from the historical
viewpoint is Woodcock Academy, well known to all pioneers. It was located
on the Athanum, and was one of the genuine pioneer academies, of the New
England type. After serving a most useful purpose for a number of years, it
474 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
became clear to the founders that the development of the high school idea
characteristic of all western communities was such as to supplant the private
academy, and in fact make it unnecessary by fulfilling its educational aims.
While the high schools do not and can not perform the religious functions which
so largely engaged the motives of the builders of denominational institutions, they
have taken their places throughout the west, with the exception of preparatory
institutions maintained by the Catholic, Episcopalian, Adventist and Lutheran
denominations. Woodcock Academy, like other Congregational academies in the
state, became merged into the public school system of its locality. This academy
held such a unique place in the historj' of the beautiful Ahtanum country that
we are fortunate in being able to include here an account of it by a well known
citizen of Yakima, best qualified to do this, Mr. Ernest Woodcock.
WOODCOCK ACADEMY
More than thirty-five years ago. Dr. G. H. Atkinson, superintendent of Con-
gregational work in Washington and Oregon, and a well known pioneer, urged
the establishment of a Christian school in the Yakima Valley, and suggested the
Ahtanum Valley as the most suitable location. His plans were warmly seconded
by Deacon Elisha S. Tanner and Deacon Fenn B. Woodcock. Only the last
named gentleman lived to see the realization of the long cherished plan.
In the Fall of 1889 the Yakima Association of Congregational Churches took
up the matter and appointed a committee to receive ofifers of money and land for
an academy to be located within the bounds of the Association, at the point giving
the most encouragement. Ellensburg, North Yakima, and Ahtanum made offers
for this institution. These oft'ers were presented at the meeting of the asso-
ciation in the Spring of 1890. That of Ahtanum was most encouraging. Sixty
acres of good land was oflfered by Fenn B. Woodcock and wife, and a subscrip-
tion in money and labor amounting to about three thousand dollars accompanied
the ofifer of land.
The association voted its hearty approval of the proposition to found such
an institution and approved of its location in the Ahtanum Valley. The follow-
ing board of trustees was secured and incorporated in 1890: Hon. R. K. Nichols,
president; Rev. S. H. Cheadle, secretary; Fenn B. Woodcock, treasurer; Rev.
Samuel Greene, Rev. Frank T. McConaughy, Hon. D. W. Stair, Mr. John Cowan,
Captain J. H. Thomas and Dan W. Nelson. In the carrying out of their trust,
the Ahtanum Academy was completed and opened for school in September, 1892.
In January, 1897, its chief founder, Fenn B. Woodcock, was taken to his rest,
and the trustees voted to commemorate his name by changing the corporate name
of Ahtanum Academy to that of Woodcock Academy. The institution was car-
ried on for thirteen years. During this time the following were principals:
William Heiney, Frank McCanaughy, N. P. Hull, J. M. Richardson, O. C. Palmer,
W. L. Dawson, Rosine M. Edwards, Ernest Woodcock. The institution had
boarding accommodations and was well attended. Students came from Yakima
and the surrounding valleys, and some from outside the state.
At the present time the only thing about the academy of worth is a memory
connected with the history of the Valley. The institution had its day and did
lUi
LJ
E \V'-'
\
p
' ^ MP ' ''-'^" ■■■IMIiM
JaM^^jB^^
WOODCOCK ACADEMY, AHTANUM
HISTORY OF YAKIMA A'ALLEY 475
a good work. It was the expression of Fenn B. Woodcock, who came here
from Williamstown, Massachusetts, and whose home was near Williams Col-
lege. So when the opportunity offered it was natural for him to want this thing
for his own community. He carried a subscription paper with him. He was
not a public speaker, but he could talk to one or two people at a time on the
subject of academy with good results. It was his attorney, the Hon. W. L. Jones,
who got up all the legal papers in connection with the institution. He began to
talk of an eight thousand dollar building and equipment. It was some under-
taking and his neighbors wondered how he was going to do it, for up, to that time
a six hundred dollar public school building and a two thousand dollar church was
the limit in the way of construction at Ahtanum. From the time the institution
was located he was on the job continually, buying supplies, hiring men, paying
bills. He was out of debt when the academy started, and was almost broke
when he died.
Rev. A. J. Bailey, Rev. Samuel Green, Rev. S. H. Cheadle and Rev. Frank
McConaughy devoted their untiring energies to its development. During the
principalship of N. P. Hull a very successful Summer school was held at the
academy, which almost every teacher in Yakima County attended.
During the last five or six years the instructors were largely from Whitman
College : Rosine Edwards, Mary Dixon, Lovina Sherman Wiley, Ernest Wood-
cock, Etha Woodcock, Martha Wiley, Ollie Crosno. Often their salaries were
small compared to what they could have had elsewhere, but they felt that the
institution needed them.
Senator W. L. Jones on one occasion delivered the commencement address.
He said in part: "I consider it a great honor and privilege to have known
intimately Fenn B. Woodcock. He was not what the world calls great. He
made no pretentions to greatness. To him right living was the supreme motive
of his life. To use his time, his energj' and his means to elevate the world in
which he lived was his great purpose. He was industrious and frugal. He was
earnest and modest. He was a soldier of his country. Of this he boasted not.
He had only done his duty. He was tndy great and one of that citizenship that
makes this nation great. This institution is an emanation from the noble nature
of this man and those of this community like him. It is the offspring of love
and the product of individual labor and sacrifice. The mere establishment of
this institution is but little. There is nothing particularly inspiring about that.
There are no great buildings ; there is no great concourse of students. The cir-
cumstances of its establishment constitute its worth ; are the precious jewels in
the setting. It is an easy thing for Carnegie or Rockefeller to establish a library
or endow a college. If we had their wealth we could do the same with just as
little effort and just as little sacrifice. Did you ever think that there is very
little real worth to a gift that does not involve some personal sacrifice? Yet it
is so. What does it cost Carnegie to found a library or Rockefeller to endow a
college? Nothing. They make no sacrifice. It costs the mno suffering, no
worry, no sleepless nights ; they draw a check. The money goes. They do not
miss it, they think no more about it. Not so with Fenn B. Woodcock and those
who cooperated with him. He had nothing but his farm. No, that was not all.
476 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
He had also determination to do something for humanity at whatever cost or
sacrifice. The founding of this academy was determined upon. The opportunities
for a better education must be provided for the boys and girls of this community.
There was no large bank account to draw against and yet money was necessary
to erect a building and hire teachers. Farms were mortgaged that the money
might be forthcoming. Mr. Woodcock mortgaged his farm. The mortgage
must be paid. How? By daily toil and the strictest economy and by daily sac-
rifice. Comforts that would have made life more pleasant were not enjoyed
that the little store to pay ofi the mortgage might be increased. Yes, indeed ;
it meant something to him and his family and to those who cooperated with him
to establish this institution. They counted the cost, they knew what it meant,
but they made the sacrifice cheerfully and willingly. Hard times came on. We
all know what they are. We have not yet forgotten. There was no complaint.
The cost had been counted. The toiling and sacrificing went on cheerfully and
uncomplainingly. Other mortgages were put on. Greater sacrifices were re-
quired. Harder toil was endured that the institution might be sustained. Be-
side such unselfish sacrifices and such unremitting toil how insignificant appear
the gifts of those multimillionaires. How noble the work. How heroic the
struggle. How precious is the gift. What an incentive to a higher, nobler life."
Like most of the other denominational academies of the state, this institu-
tion gave way to the public high school. The old building at Ahtanum at the
present time is doing its bit in the world's greatest war as headquarters of the
Ahtanum Auxiliary of the Red Cross.
FENN B. WOODCOCK
One of the genuine builders of all that has been of the best in the business,
in the intellectual, the social and the religious life of early Yakima, was Fenn B.
Woodcock. And with him in labor, and faith, and achievement, history must
preserve the name of his wife, Frances E. Taylor Woodcock, who with him laid
enduring foundations upon the Ahtanum, which are worthily maintained by the
son, Ernest Woodcock, now one of the leading business men of Yakima.
Fenn B. Woodcock was born in Massachusetts in 1834. Mrs. Woodcock
was a native of Connecticut. Both were descended from a long line of New
England ancestry, Mr. Woodcock tracing his lineage to John Woodcock who
came from England in 1635.
Both Mr. and Mrs. Woodcock had the best of early education, both being
graduates of Hines College, Connecticut. Both engaged for a number of years
in the profession of teaching.
Mr. Woodcock felt the lure of the great west, which drew so many of the
active spirits of the older states, and in 1857 he removed to Minnesota. There
he engaged for four years in farming. With the outbreak of the Civil War he,
like most of the young men of the country, heard the call for service in the
preservation of the Union, and responded to President Lincoln's first summons
for a volunteer army, and enlisted in the Fourth Minnesota Infantry. His
service continued throughout the four years of the war and he bore his part
iinbt and ye
.s were mo;.,
irtgaged his Uirni. The ■
strictest economy and by >i;
e more pleasant were no
might be increased. Ye
. to those who cooperated
?t, they l-new what ii nic.:.
Hard times came on. '^N
■n. There was no complair
i^cing went on cheerfully vir
Greater sacrifices were r^
on might be sustained. !;•
foil how insignificant ^npc-
> ..rk. How h
T higher, noi
FENN B
One of the genuine builders of ;:'
• 111
1 the busine;
ar-niia,
wa^ c-.,.,-
vement.
hi?i
who
\vifh
.vHiil.er of y,-.i-
-o many of thv
a- • nesota. There
he . , r:.-n Wnr h'
like rnnst ot ih _
preservation of :'
i,,r n ^'^>luntee^ i..; . .^.iu .>-^c ,i liil,l..'.y.
itinued throughou: rmd he bore his pa,
Je^v-xy^ J^^ yJ^ni-rJ <^^7 <?''.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 477
in some of the greatest battles of the war, as Vicksburg aad the inarch through
Georgia to the sea.
Upon the expiration of the war Mr. Woodcock returned to Minnesota, where
he resumed farming operations. In 1871 he returned with Mrs. Woodcock and
their two sons, Charles and Ernest, both bom in Minnesota, to his old home
near Williamstown, Massachusetts. There he remained engaged in farming for
six years. During all that time he was craving a location in the west with its
wider opportunities and freer conditions. A visit to the Philadelphia exposition
in 1876, where he saw the products of the Pacific Northwest, led him to the
decision that Oregon or Washington was the place for him. His first tentative
location in 1877 was Forest Grove, Oregon, but within a lew months he sought
a permanent place on Puget Sound. A colony of people connected with the
Congregational church was just then in process of establishment at the mouth of
the Skagit river and Mr. Woodcock joined himself to the company for a time.
The tremendous difficulties of reclaiming the land from the huge timber
and entangling undergrowth induced him to make inquiries in regard to the new
lands east of the Cascade mountains. Mrs. Woodcock, when a girl, had known
Mr. and Mrs. E. S. Tanner, who had immigrated to Oregon in early days and
who had located on the Ahtanum in the early seventies. With a view to another
location, Mr. and Mrs. Woodcock entered into correspondence with Mr. Tanner,
as a result of which they went to the Ahtanum in October, 1878. They there
established their permanent home. Mr. Woodcock acquired a large body of
land and entered into the stock business. Of the noble part which Mr. and Mrs.
Woodcock bore in all the activities of the growing region, many now living can
testify.
Mr. Woodcock was a versatile man and his energy and philanthropy were
manifested in many directions. During his first winter in Yakima he taught the
school in old Yakima, in the little one room structure of ihe first days. In 1879
he, in conjunction with Messrs. Shipley and Bailey of Forest Grove, Oregon,
appraised the lands of the Northern Pacific Railroad in Yakima and Kittitas
counties. Two months were devoted to this work, and at the end of the
examination they made a very optimistic report, especially as to the lands of what
was then known as "Lower Yakima," that is, below Union Gap. The great
possibilities in that section, now so abundantly fulfilled, were clearly forecast by
Mr. Woodcock and his associates.
Mr. Woodcock was one of the original incorporators of the joint stock
company which established the first, in fact, the only, flouring mill in North
Yakima. The mill was so successful and the stock reached so high a figure
within a year that Mr. Woodcock sold his shares.
We have given under other captions the history of Mr. Woodcock's share
in building the Ahtanum church and the Ahtanum academy, subsequently and
fittingly known as Woodcock Academy. The academy was indeed his most dis-
tinctive monument. Although conditions led to the final absorption of the
academy by the public school system, the outlay of time and labor and money
which Mr. Woodcock and his family so devotedly and unselfislily made was by
no means lost. The academy fulfilled a great mission in upbuilding the educa-
478 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
tional forces of the community, it left a precious heritage to the Ahtanum, and
the building is now a rallying point for every sort of progressive and patriotic
enterprise.
Mr. Woodcock's family consisted of the two sons already named. The
elder, Charles, died February 25, 1890.
The younger, Ernest, is engaged in several forms of active business enterprise
with his office in Yakima. His home, however, is one of the old places of Ahtanum.
His mother, still in vigorous health, lives in the beautiful home of her son, and
it is indeed one of the fitting examples of due recompense in this world that
Madam Woodcock, after her years of pioneer toil and deprivation, is now sur-
rounded by all the comforts of modern life.
Mr. Woodcock, while still in the greatest activity and at an age when
he might have expected many more years of service, reached the limit of life on
January 25, 1897.
In his passing on it may be truly said that the Yakima lost one of her ablest
builders and one of her noblest men. Of him, as of many whose lives we arc
here recording, it may be said, "His works do follow him."
THE CHURCHES
The Yakima churches sprung to some degree from the Missionary age. In
an earlier chapter devoted wholly to that heroic age we traced the passage over
from the missions to the modern churche?. As noted in missionar>' history the
Catholic Church was especially prominent in Yakima. St. Joseph's Catholic
Church grew out of the mission on the Ahtanum. It was founded on the site
of the old mission in 1871. Two years later a new organization was made at
Yakima City. In 1885 the church was moved to North Yakima. With it went
the main body of members. In 1905 the present magnificent stone edifice was
erected, perhaps the finest of the several fine houses of worship for which Yakima
is conspicuous. Upon the completion of the new building ihe former, which had
come up from Yakima City, was utilized for Marquette College, until the erec-
tion of the school building in 1910. A notable auxiliary of the church is St.
Joseph's Hospital. This was established in 1889, and in 1913 a splendid hospital
building was built and equipped with the finest appliances and with efficient
nurses. St. Joseph's Parish numbers fourteen hundred members, being the
largest church membership in central Washington, and, outside of Spokane, the
largest in the Inland Empire.
Although St. Joseph's Church is the oldest in the city, it antedated but
slightly the Congregational Church on the Ahtanum. That oldest of all the
Protestant churches of Yakima after the missionary era recently celebrated its
forty-fifth anniversary. So much of interesting history gathers around the rec-
ords of that pioneer church that we know many readers will be glad to read an
article prepared by Mrs. Frances E. Woodcock, who with her husband, Fenn B.
Woodcock, came to the Ahtanum in 1877. Mr. Woodcock died in 1897, and Mrs.
Woodcock is still living at the beautiful residence of her son upon the home place.
Mr. and Mrs. Woodcock were known to all old-timers as among the foremost of
the builders of the Valley. They reached the Ahtanum four years after the found-
PRKSBYTKRIAX Cin'RCIl, YAKIMA
lOsKl'JIS CATHOLIC CllUKCU AM' rAIJSOXA'
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 479
ing of the church and did their part nobly both in church and secular affairs.
The founders of the church, however, were the members of one of the noblest
and best of the pioneer families of old Yakima. These were Elisha S. Tanner
and his family. At the forty-fifth anniversary referred to above, an article
prepared some years earlier by Mrs. M. A. Elliott of Walla Walla was read.
This article gives so clearly some of the essential facts about not only the church,
but the pioneer days that we are including here a number of extracts.
This paper was prepared for the Woman's Missionary Meeting at the
Ahtanum Academy building on May 23, 1911, at the time of the Yakima Asso-
ciation, by Mrs. M. A. Elliott for Mrs. F. B. Woodcock and Mrs. Alice Vivian,
who were appointed to speak upon "Pioneer Days in Yakima Valley."
AHTANUM
The pioneers of this valley were obliged to come by way of the Dalles over
the old Government road across the Yakima Reservation — a three days trip. And
it is said that on the way, in the descent of a long, steep hill, it was necessary to
fasten a log or tree to the back wheels of the vehicles to serve the purpose of
brakes. This was over fifteen years before the building of the Northern Pacific
Railroad. All provisions and dry goods had to be purchased at The Dalles.
In 1870 Mr. Elisha Tanner and family came to this valley for a home.
They found but a few families there. The names of Bland, Stabler, Filkins,
Crosno and Wiley, with one or two others are given. Feeling the need and
importance of having religious services on the Sabbath, Mr. Tanner and his
young daughter Alice (now Mrs. Vivian) went on horseback from house to
house, consulting the families concerning the starting of a Sunday School, which
resulted in such an organization in Mr. Tanner's house in June, 1873. It was
afterwards held in the schoolhouse. Miss Alice v/as the fortunate owner of a
small melodeon, which she still has in her home.
I find in the minutes of this church the following record made in 1874: "It
has been a great help to the Sabbath School and preaching services to have the
loan of Miss Alice Tanner's melodeon and her free services as chorister and
player upon the instrument, which for the most of the time Deacon Tanner has
conveyed to and from his home when able to do so."
I have learned a little more about that melodeon which interested me much.
In 1878, eight years after the organization of the Sabbath School, the people
were warned of an expected outbreak of the Oregon Indians, who threatened
to exterminate the whites. The men of the valley at once prepared a place of
protection and defense, by enclosing a half acre with a thick high sod wall with
holes here and there through which they would place their guns. And into this
fort the families gathered and remained until all danger was passed. They had
hidden many of their household goods in the thick brush. The first Sabbath in
the fort, some young men slipped out and brought in the melodeon from its hiding
place in the bushes. One day, while in the fort a thick cloud of dust seen on the
reservation terrified the people, who thought the Indians were coming down
upon them, but later it was learned from a Yakima Indian who, when seen
coming towards the fort, Mr. Tanner went out and interviewed, that the dust
480 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
was caused by the flight of the Yakima Indians to the mountains, fearing the
Oregon Indians and unwilling to make war against the whites.
Three years after the organization of the Sabbath School on April 19, 1873,
these workers held a meeting to consider the expediency of organizing a Con-
gregational Church in this valley. They corresponded with Dr. G. H. Atkinson,
superintendent of mission churches in Oregon and Washington, and acting upon
his advice they met together May 11, 1873, and organized a church of nine mem-
bers, viz : Mr. Elisha S. Tanner, Mrs. Lucey C. Tanner, Mr. J. R. Filkins, Mrs.
E. C. Filkins, Mr. Eben Pratt, Mr. Albert J. Thompson, Mr. T. C. Humphrey,
Mr. H. M. Humphrey, Mr. A. J. Pratt. On June 1st, Mr. James Kesling and
Mrs. Jane Kesling united with the church and June 29th Mrs. Hanna Pratt, Mrs.
Mary Reed and Mrs. N. H. Allen became members. The deacons were E. S.
Tanner, James Kesling. Trustees were N. C. Goff, J. R. Filkins, H. M. Humphrey.
Treasurer, A. J. Pratt. Of the first members, four, Mr. and Mrs. Kesling, Mr.
Eben Pratt and Mrs. Hannah Pratt were residents of Yakima City (now Old-
town). The church called a council, inviting the churches of Astoria, Salem,
Forest Grove, Albany, Oregon City, The Dalles, Portland, East Portland, Seattle,
and Olympia, to meet at the Oregon Association at The Dalles, June 15, and
recognize the formation of this church. Deacon E. S. Tanner was sent to this
Association and after presenting his statement of the organization of the
Ahtanum Church — its distance from other towns, prospect of permanence,
articles of Faith and Covenant (taken from the Tabernacle Church, New York
City — Dr. Thompson), the Council, satisfied with the wisdom of the action, voted
to send Dr. Atkinson and Rev. T. Condon to Ahtanum to extend the right hand
of fellowship of the sister churches, which they did on June 29 when Dr. Atkin-
son gave the charge to the church and the deacons, Mr. E. S. Tanner and Mr.
James Kesling were ordained. This was in the schoolhouse where the Sabbath
School was organized and where they continued to worship eleven years, until
the erection of a church building in 1884, having the occasional services of Father
Eells and Father Wilbur as they visited the valley.
In the church records of 1879, Doctor Atkinson wrote : "Many immigrants
came into this valley and -several ministers preached in the schoolhouse as they
passed through. The union of Christians in the Sabbath School work formed a
visible bond of Christian friendship and fellowship."
In 1879 Deacon Tanner set aside five acres of land for the men of the
church to cultivate and plant, and the income of the crops to be used for church
purposes.
April 26, 1879, Mr. F. B. Woodcock and wife were admitted by letter
and ofur dismissed to go into the proposed organization of a church at Yakima
City, which organization was effected the next day, October 27th.
On the church register is the following sad record: "Deacon Elisha S. Tan-
ner was drowned in the Naches River when attempting to cross at Nelson's
Ferry, while on his way to assist in the ordination of Deacon George S. Taylor
of the Wenas Congregational Church." "This tragic event was a crashing blow
to the church who thus lost a most wise and faithful leader." June 16, 1883, the
site for the church building and parsonage was selected. Deacon Woodcock and
ii;sT .\r. K. ciirKcii, yakima
HISTORY OF YAKIAIA ^■ALLEV 481
wife giving the two acres upon which the church was built and Mrs. Tanner
donating five acres adjoining for the parsonage property.
The church was dedicated September, 1884. The church bell was pre-
sented by friends and relatives of Mrs. Woodcock and Mrs. Tanner, in Connec-
ticut, through the efforts of Mrs. Tanner's brother, Mr. Samuel Carter.
The Woman's Missionary Society was organized July, 1887, with sixteen
members, by Mrs. Rev. William Dawson. At the present time, May, 1911,
about five hundred dollars has been contributed by this Woman's Missionarv
Society to Home and Foreign Missions.
The ministers who have served this church are: Rev. A. Kelly, Father
Wilbur, Father Hells, Doctor Atkinson, Revs. Ellis W. Dixon, L. E. Pang-
burn, William E. Dawson, John E. Elliott, F. McConaughy, J. Cheadle, D. W.
Wise, L. W. Brintnall, William L. Dawson, A. J. Smith, O. Olmstead, B. D.
Moon.
The Ahtanum church was the fourth Congregational church in Washington
Territory. The first was at Walla Walla in 1865; the second at Seattle, 1869;
the third at Olympia, 1873, and the fourth at Ahtanum, May 11, 1873. At the
present time (May, 1911) there are about two hundred churches in the state.
November 19, 1895, the Yakima Association was formed at the Ahtanum
church.
As the mantle of Elijah fell upon Elisha, so the mantle of Elisha Tanner
fell upon Deacon Fenn B. Woodcock. All who knew him were impressed with
his Christ-like spirit, and his entire consecration to the service of his Divine
Master and the good of his fellowmen. He showed his faith in God by his
works, and his devotion to Christ by his life of self-denial, that the coming set-
tlers of this Ahtanum Valley might have the privileges of a house of worship
and the services of a Chri^ian minister. The church and the academy building
are memorials of his generosity and loving interest in the future good of this
community. "Blessed are those who die in the Lord — their works do follow
thine."
Friends in Waverly, Illinois, contributed $67.50 for the pulpit, and pulpit
chairs. The pulpit Bible cost four dollars. The Sabbath School gave $2.50,
the Bible agent gave $1.00 and the church paid the rest. The cost of the church
was $1,894.75. The house was dedicated free from debt. The chandelier anci
lamps were bought with money from a Sabbath School in Waterbury, Connec-
ticut, and an aunt of Mrs. Woodcock in West Winfield, New York.
Mrs. Tanner loved and served this church faithfully until God took her to
the better world. The above was read by Mrs. Elliott, and the article by Mrs.
Woodcock was read at the same anniversay. As may be seen it follows more the
line of personal reminiscence, while the article by Mrs. Elliott is more of a his-
torical narrative. We give here Mrs. Woodcock's paper.
Ahtanum, May 26, 1918.
There have been many changes since my husband, myself, and our two
sons, came by the way of The Dalles, over the old Government road to this
valley forty years ago. The valley was mostly covered with sage, and the dr}%
(31)
482 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
treeless hills were anything but inviting. Hardly any roads and very few houses.
In those days goods and groceries had to be purchased at The Dalles and
drawn here by teams, a six days' round trip. Five dollars was the price of a
five-gallon can -of kerosene oil, and much of it leaked out before it got here
When we arrived we found the church and Sabbath School holding services
in the schoolhouse which was then on the back road near Mr. Westley Gano's.
For several years we went every Sunday to the little schoolhouse. Settlers kept
coming in and filling up the house until it was thought advisable to build a
church. The American Congregational Union offered to loan us five hundred
dollars, if we could raise the rest. Nearly every one helped a little and some
helped bountifully. To our great joy the house was built and dedicated Sep-
tember 18, 1884. Then was when the ladies of this church put forth their best
efforts to pay the five hundred dollar loan to the union. We raised money
mostly by giving dinners, with none of the conveniences which we have at the
present day. Instead of automobiles and telephones now used in soliciting food
for the dinner it required a whole day to ride in a lumber wagon, up and down
the valley, and instead of the church kitchen and dining-room which we now
have (as a result of the skillful leadership of Mrs. L. B. Palmer at a later date)
we used a part of the vestibule and this room. Chairs, tables, dishes and all
things necessary for the dinner had to be brought from their homes. With much
labor but with willing hearts we succeeded in paying the debt. Then our
thoughts turned to a place for the minister to live. There were no houses to
rent. Cities were not so plentiful then as now.
We were looking for a man to come from the east and we must find some
place for him to live. So we concluded to build a parsonage. Again the Con-
gregational Union came to the rescue and loaned us three hundred dollars. IMr.
Tanner, before he died, had given the proceeds of five acres to the church to
help pay the minister's salary, the men of the church to do the work of taking
care of what grew upon it. Mrs. Tanner concluded that instead of the pro-
ceeds of the five acres she would buy five acres, where the parsonage now stands,
of Mr. Woodcock, and give it to the church. We took what she gave and made
the first start in the way of a fund to build the building. The lumber was
bought from a mill up in the mountains. That Fall there were quantities of
rain and the roads got pretty icy, so much so that people did not like to go
with their teams after the lumber. So my oldest son took a team and drew
the lumber past the steep slippery places, then the others went after it and
brought it down, but the lumber was too wet and the weather too cold to build
until Spring.
In the meantime the minister (Mr. Dawson) with his wife and son h?d
come. What was to be done with him? There seemed to be only one way and
that was for the Woodcocks to move out and let the minister in. We were
living where the Shockleys do. We moved into the back of the house and gave
them the front. We lived that way until the parsonage was completed, the first
of June. Then there was plenty for every one to do. Besides paying for the
second loan, they put out small fruits, fruit trees and shade trees, both for the
church and parsonage. The smaller fruits are gone but many of the fruit and
CHRISTIAN CHUECH, YAKIMA
FIRST BAPTIST CIU'KCII, YAKIMA
HISTORY OF YAKIMA \'ALLEY 483
shade trees are there to hear witness to our labors. This work went on with
willing hearts that we might have God's house and God's people in our midst.
Nearly all those who were then the active workers in the start have passed
away and we who are here are enjoying the fruit of their labor.
Mrs. F. T. Woodcock.
At the present date all the leading Christian denominations are repre-
sented in Yakima. None of the others has had the historic background of the
St Joseph's Catholic Church or the Congregational Church of Ahtanum. Without
undertaking to relate the history of any of these churches in full we may note the
churches and pastors at the opening of the century and at the present date.
In 1902 they were as follows : Congregational, Rev. H. P. James, pastor ; St.
Michael's Episcopal, Rev. H. M. Bartlett, pastor; First Baptist, Rev. J. J. Tick-
ner, pastor; Christian, Rev. A. C. Vail, pastor; First Methodist, Dr. Henry,
D. D., pastor: Lutheran, Rev. J. Gihring, pastor; Presbyterian, Rev. F. L.
Hayden, pastor; St. Joseph's Roman Catholic, Rev. Father B. Feusi, pastor;
Mennonite, Rev. J. A. Persell, pastor ; Dunkard, Rev. G. E. Wise, pastor. There
were strong Christian Science and Salvation Army organizations. At that date
most of the churches had comparatively small and inexpensive edifices.
A great change has taken place during the period following the time just
noted. Yakima has become conspicuous for the number and excellence of her
church buildings. At the present time the Presbyterian, Baptist, Methodist,
Episcopalian, Catholic, Christian and Christian Science denominations have
houses of worship of conspicuous architectual beauty as well as interior com-
fort and adaptability to the varied needs of a church home. The following is
the complete list of churches with their pastors at the present date :
CHURCHES .\ND P.\STORS OF Y.\KIMA AT PRESENT DATE
St. Joseph's Roman Catholic, Rev. Father Conrad Brustin.
First Baptist, Rev. L. J. Sawyer.
Calvary Baptist, Rev. F. C. Whitney.
Dunkard, Rev. George A. Wise.
African Methodist^ Rev. S. E. Bailey.
Episcopal, Rev. S. J. Mynard.
Congregational, Rev. W. D. Robinson.
Methodist Episcopal, Rev. W. F. Ineson.
Swedish Lutheran, Rev. W. J. Jansen.
German Evangelical, Rev. Huntsinger.
First Christian, Rev. S. G. Buckman.
Mennonite Brethren in Christ, Rev. J. G. Grout
Presbyterian, Rev. Edward Campbell.
Church of God, Rev. D. M. Clemens.
English Lutheran, Rev. Andrew Engeret.
Evangelical, Rev. H. J. Bittner.
Nazarene. Rev. A. M. Bowes.
German Lutheran, Rev. F. H. K. Soil.
484 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \ALLEY
FRATERNAL ORDERS
Yakima is and has been well supplied with lodges of the usual orders.
These seem to have come in with the town and grown with its growth. We
find named in the various books and papers and records of many kinds, the
following orders : Elks, North Yakima Lodge No. 18 ; Masons, Yakima Chap-
ter No. 21, Royal Arch Masons; Eastern Star, Syringa Chapter No. 38; Knights
of The Maccabees, Yakima Tent No. 26; Ladies of The Maccabees, Yakima
Hive No. 24; Order of Odd Fellows, North Yakima Encampment No. 7,
Yakima Lodge No. 22, Isabel Rebekah No. 22; Knights of Pythias, North
Yakima No. 53; Rathbone Sisters, North Yakima Temple No. 31; Woodman
of the World, Yakima Camp No. 89 ; Women of \\'oodcraft. Rustle Circle No.
268; Modern Woodmen of America, North Yakima Camp No. 5580; Fraternal
Order of Eagles, North Yakima Aerie No. 289; Ancient Order of United
Workmen, North Yakima Lodge NTo. 29; Degree of Honor, North Star Lodge
No. 52; Foresters of America, Court Florine No. 50; Improved Order of Red
Men, Yakima Tribe No. 24; Fraterial Brotherhood, North Yakima Lodge No.
266; Royal Neighbors, Sunshine Camp N|o. 1520. Most of the lodges named
above have continued from their founding to the present. One of the orders
to which special attention and honor should always be given is the Grand Army
of the Republic. The Yakima Post has been a strong one, but the great ma-
jority have passed on. We learn from a record prepared by a post commander
that there have been 148 members.
YAKIMA CO.\tMERCIAL CLUE
Perhaps the best index of any city, particularly in a new country, is its
Commerecial Club, or Chamber of Commerce, or whatever it may be named.
Yakima's progress may in large measure be attributed to the activity and
intelligence of its Commercial Club. It has given initiative and direction to the
citizenship of the city in connection with the great enterprises and public mo\e-
ments from stage to stage of development.
The genesis of the Commercial Club may be said to have been in the Yakima
Club of 1890. The governing board of that organization consisted of William
Ker, Edward Whitson, Fred R. Reed, R. M. Vance and Dr. Elmer E. Heg.
Through the kindness of O. C. Soots, who became secretary' in October.
1918, the best qualified to render such valuable aid. we are able to include here
an authoritative sketch of the history of this vital organization.
Looking back over the history and accomplishments of the Yakima Com-
mercial Club, one feature stands out most prominently and that is a record of
work well done under adverse and sometimes embarrassing financial conditions
Duri;ig a quarter of a century the club has been a potent influence in the
upbuilding of the Yakima Valley and there has scarcely been any movement
marking a progressive step by the community that the .organization has not
either fostered or initiated. Nor do the records reveal a single instance where
its indorsement or financial support has been given to an unworthy enterprise.
It was in 1893 that a few moving spirits got together and conceived the
idea of a club designed to look after the business interests of Yakima — then not
MASONIC TEMPLE, YAKIMA
HISTORY OV YAKBIA \ALLEY 485
mucli more than a wide spot in the road — to lend assistance to the strugghng
farmer and stockman, and to lay the foundation for a city whose importance as
a trade center would extend throughout central Washington. Such men as J.
D. Medill, present postmaster; E. F. Benson, state commissioner of agriculture:
A. B. Weed, George Donald and W. L. Steinweg had a vision that some day
the rich soil of the Yakima Valley would yield abundant returns from well
watered fruit, vegetable and grain tracts, and consequently, to achieve results,
there should be cooperative effort put forth through a wide-awake Commercial
Club such as then existed in but five cities of the state.
Accordingly negotiations were opened with the Yakima Social Club for
the purchase of its lease, furniture and equipment of quarters on the third floor
of the building now occupied by the Star Clothing Company at Second and
Main streets, and which was at that time perhaps the chief temple of trade and
commerce in the bailiwick of North Yakima. And be it known that the Social
Club was no ordinary Lime Kiln affair, for its initiation fee was $100 and its
membership was composed of the most influential business men and farmers of
the valley. On its roster were some blue-blooded aristocrats from England and
some early settlers who literally had money to burn.
It is said that details of the transaction were largely left to Mr. Benson,
who, with his usual trading sagacity, bargained for the furnishings and lease
for $1,000, with the understanding that each Social Club member in good stand-
ing would be given a paid-up membership for one year in the Yakima Com-
mercial Club. .\nd so it came about that in the Fall of 1893 the Yakima Social
Club was absorbed by the new organization, which started off with nearly 300
members and with club quarters second to none in the Inland Empire. Col.
W. F. Prosser, who died several years ago, was the first president and J. M.
Gilbert, secretary. It was for the former the town of Prosser was named. Mr.
Gilbert was a prosperous Nob Hill rancher who later removed to Syracuse,
New York.
Official records of the club for a number of years are missing but it seems
from talks with several of the older members that most of its energies and
resources were devoted to the exploitation of this "Garden Spot of Plenty"
with a view to attracting desirable homeseekers and investors, and in this work
it was very successful.
When the Clogg Building was completed on Yakima Avenue in 19*31,
rooms had been especially designed and furnished for use of the club. Here
enlarged accommodations made it possible to broaden the scope of activities and
extend the social features of the organization. Many projects for the better-
ment of the valley, such as irrigation, good roads, more scientific methods of
fruit growing, etc., were promoted. Office executives during this period were
Charles F. Bailey, who succeeded Mr. Gilbert ; Fred Chandler, now one of the
most successful auto dealers in the state, and who holds the record for length
of service, having been on the job from 1897 to 1905 ; H. P. James, club secre-
tary for five years and who, as a token of esteem for faithful and efficient serv-
ice, was made a life member by vote of the board of governors. Upon the resig-
nation of Mr. James, Dr. J. F. Barton was chosen as his successor in March,
1912. On account of ill health. Doctor Barton was obliged to quit after serving
486 HISTORY OF YAKIMA A'ALLEY
one month. Since that time the position of managing secretary has been filled
by the following gentlemen in the order given: G. S. Ware, April, 1912, to
March, 1913; W. B. Owen, to August, 1914; J. A. Harader, to July, 1916;
H. Y. Saint, to August, 1917 ; W. W. Stratton, one month ; C. A. Foresman, to
June, 1918; Thomas B. Hill, to September, 1918.
From 1896 to date the administrative affairs of the club have been guided by
Presidents Edward Whitson, Alex Miller, O. A. Fechter, George Donald, Dan
Lesh, W. L. Lemon, H. C. Lucas. R. W. Rundstrom, H. Y. Saint. H. H. Lom-
bard, Frank Horsley, James Leslie, W. A. Bell, R. B. Williamson, Robert Prior,
R. D. Rovig, R. K. Tiffany.
Present officers of the club are: R. K. Tiff'any. president; W. B. Aud.i,
treasurer; Orpheus C. Soots, secretary. In addition to the officers the board
of trustees is composed of A. H. Huebner. C. R. McKee, W. L. Dimmick, D. H.
French, A. J. Gladson, J. T. Harrah, H. J. Medill, J. K. Arrowsmith, L. A.
Dash, and Frederick Mercy, the first four being vice-presidents.
In January, 1912, an important epoch was entered when the club moved
from the Clogg Building to the new Masonic office building at the corner of
Fourth and Yakima, where a long lease had been secured on the entire fourth
floor. Shortly thereafter a reorganization was effected under the bureau and
budget plan. New furniture and equipment w^as installed at a cost of more
than $3,000 and later a card room and billiard room were added to the amuse-
ment features and the floor space remodeled in such a way as to provide one
of the largest and most modern club quarters in the Northwest. Two hundred
persons can be comfortably seated in the assembly room, which can be entirely
shut oft' from other departments, and w^hich is equipped with leather uphol-
stered chairs, floor covering and lighting fixtures of the best quality. Here it
is that nearly all community meetings are held, averaging one for every week-
day in the year.
In March, 1913, the club began an active campaign for a road across the
Cascade Mountains and, through Congressman Warburton and interested
communities, finally succeeded in getting adequate federal and state aid for the
Snoqualmie Pass highway. Other matters coming up for consideration during
1912-13 included closer cooperation between fruit growers and shippers, inter-
est from the carriers on deferred claims, better trackage and transportation
facilities, more thorough fruit inspection and many other things of benefit to
the orchardist and small farmer; joined with the city in a movement for a new
sewer system ; sought and obtained a reduction in long-distance telephone rates ;
backed the passage by the legislature of a new water code harmonizing and
simplifying the then existing irrigation laws. In addition to these far-reaching
activities, the club in January, 1913, sent to Olympia a committee consisting of
H. Y. Saint, L. O. Meigs, Alex Miller, N. C. Richards and A. J. Splawn, with
full authority to represent the city in the matter of an armory appropriation.
State Fair appropriation, and legislation on horticulture. Concrete results
attest the success of this committee.
But space is too limited to attempt even a brief summary of the manifold
undertakings by the Commercial Club in the last seven years. Suffice to say it
has not only succeeded in bringing to the valley the beet sugar and fruit by-
HISTORY OF YAKLMA VALLEY 487
products industries, but has assisted every worth-while movement having for
its object the upbuilding of town and country. Aside from the fact that it has
carried on a systematic program of material development, (he club has devoted
most of its energies since the declaration of war to those things which rendered
essential aid to our government, and it is now working on fixed plans that will
facilitate the gigantic task of reconstruction when the Hun has finally sur-
rendered.
THE .ST.VTE FAIR
One of the most important institutions of the Yakima Valley is the State
Fair. A brief sketch of its history may fittingly find a place at this point.
The first popular movements in the direction of annual exhibits of the
products of the region carry us back to the days of old Yakima City. Legh R.
Freeman, publisher of "Freeman's Farmer," prior to the incoming of the rail-
road and the removal to the new town, was one of the constant advocates of a
local fair.
In 1890 and onward the previous rudimentary fairs — some of them too
elaborate to be termed rudimentary — led to a concentration of efforts to secure
action by the legislature for locating a State Fair at Yakima. There was, of
course, as always in such cases, a good deal of "pulling and hauling" in the
legislature, but public opinion throughout the state rapidly grew to the consen-
sus that Yakima was unquestionably the place for such an institution. The
bill providing for it was introduced by Representative Webb of King Countv.
It provided for an agricultural fair for promoting agriculture, stock-raising,
horticulture, mining, mechanical industries, etc. The bill provided that exhibi-
tions be given at or near North Yakima, beginning the last Monday in Septem-
ber of each year and continuing five days. A board of seven commissioners
was provided for, and this board was authorised to purchase not less than a
hundred and twenty acres of land (at first two hundred acres) as near North
Yakima as possible, for grounds and buildings. An appropriation of $40,000
was made for use in 1893, with an additional $10,000 for the next year. This
bill, with considerable amendment greatly reducing appropriation, was passed,
received the governor's signature, and became a law on March 15, 1893.
In the Summer and Fall of 1893 Yakima County raised $10,000 by taxa-
tion with which land was purchased and deeded to the state. This land became
the permanent location and upon it have been erected the buildings and struc-
tures which now have become an imposing array, built partly by state appro-
priations, but mainly by Yakima County and city. A valuable communication
from E. F. Benson, state commissioner of agriculture, for a long time a resi-
dent of the Yakima country, and one of the foremost builders of the state, is
incorporated at this point. This communication, under date of December 14,
1918, has been prepared for special use in this work:
Chapter 134, Session Laws of 1893. provides as follows: Section 1. that
the public good requires to be and hereby is established, a state institution by
the name of the "State Fair of Washington;" section 2, that it is the object
and purpose of this resolution to promote and further the advancement of all
agricultural, .-^tock-raising, horticultural, mining, mechanical and industrial pur-
488 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
suits in this state, etc. ; section 6, the State Fair Association which located the
buildings, track, etc., for State Fair purposes on a tract of land containing not
less than 120 acres, to be in one solid block of good soil with ample water, as
level and conveniently located near the railroad shipping point at North Yakima,
providing said tract of land is donated to the state of Washington, etc. Ten
thousand dollars was appropriated in 1893. The State Fair was under the man-
agement of a board of State Fair commissioners appointed by the governor,
until six years ago, when the legislature created the department of agriculture,
abolished the State Fair commissioners, and placed the general management
and direction of the Fair under the commissioner of agriculture.
My memory is that only one State Fair has been missed since 1893, and
that was in 1894, when the money having been used up for the previous session,
a few active members of the Commercial Club of North Yakima put on a local
or district fair. I remember very well the members of that committee. They
were Mr. O. A. Fechter, chairman o'f our committee, the late Edward Whitson,
Mr. Frank Horsley and myself. We started with ten dollars, donated by a cit-
izen of Yakima to pay postage and everybody donated his time, and we cer-
tainly did have one of the best district fairs I have ever attended.
Mr. A. B. Weed of North Yakima was the member of the legislature from
Yakima County when the fair was secured. I remember very well the enthusi-
asm which he had for the enterprise at the time, and his argument as to the
great benefit it would be in developing the agricultural resources of all that
portion of the state, especially that more nearly tributary or available to North
Yakima. Among the most active directors who have assisted in building up
the fair were the late A. J. Splawn and Mr. J. E. Shannon. Mr. Shannon was
on the board for several years, and was secretary for a number of years.
The feature of outstanding importance at this time is that the fair during
the past two years has very nearly paid its own way outside of the improve-
ments and betterments to the property and the purchase of machinery and equip-
ment. The gross receipts from the fair have come within about $2,000 of pay-
in.g all of the expense during the past two years. The attendance this year
was approximately fifty thousand and the gross receipts were approximately
$35,000 for the past year.
The educational features of the fair are being developed and during the
past year $11,000 was expended in constructing an auditorium building equipped
with moving picture facilities. A more cordial cooperation with the state col-
lege exists now than perhaps at any previous time and the value of the fair in
connection with the state college extension work and the various agricultural
clubs is becoming one of the very important features of the fair. This year
(1918) twenty-six counties of the state were represented by these clubs. The
good roads development of our state is the chief foundation underlying the suc-
cess of our State Fair. During September when the fair is held, there is no
])art of the state whose people can not reach the fair by automobile within a
little more than one day, and with the continued good roads improvement, we
feel very sure that the State Fair is just beginning a period of wonderful suc-
cess. It has heretofore been looked upon by many districts of the state as being
a local Yakima Valley institution. It has now, I think, for the first time, estab-
T. M. C. A. BUILDING, YAKTM
ELKS TEMPLE, YAKIMA
HISTORY OF YAKBIA \-ALLEY 489
lishcd its reputation as being a state institution and not merely a Yakima Valley
affair. The building up of livestock and the assistance of the State College
Extension Department are two of the most important features of the fair just
now. We hope for a more general exhibit of the state's resources hereafter—
not only agricultural, but mineral, fisheries and manufactures as well.
Very truly yours,
E. F. Benson,
Commissioner of Agriculture,
per F. H. Gloyd, Secretary.
To give a view of the fair of 1918, interesting for readers of years to come.
we incorporate here the reports in the "Evening Republic" of September 20,
1918, and the "Morning Herald" of the next day:
"Republic," September 20, 1918:
RIOT OF KCN HERALD.S INV.\SION OF F.\1R GROUNDS BV ELKS .\ND THEIR FRIENDS
First heat of the free-for-all pace went to Lady Hal, in 2 :08i^ ; May Davis,
second, and Mack Fitzsimmons third.
Lady Hal won the second heat of the first race in 2:08>4: Mack Fitzsim-
mons, second, and May Davis, third.
Red Star won the first heat in the 2:19 trot, for which the purse is $500,
in 2:09^1.. Cavalier Gale was second, Complete third.
.Second heat of the second race — Cavalier Gale, first, in 2:08'4; Red Star
second ; Bonfire, third.
Elks, Elks, everywhere — and not a one to shoot 1 That's the situation at
the State Fair today. Elks' Day, where the members of the herd have gathered
for their annual riot of fun and to run the annual Elks' Derby, always the chief
social event of the races.
Neither town nor fair crowd was left in doubt as to the character of the
day. Promptly at 12 :30 the Elks' horn band, led by L. G. Hays, as color-bearer,
and followed by a delegation of Elks carrying the order's multi-starred service
flag, left the temple to parade up and down Yakima Avenue. Upon their re-
turn to the temple the parade line formed again, this time with the band from
the United States Naval Training station at its head, and left for the Fair-
grouds. Most of the Elks chose the pleasanter alternative of going by automo-
bile, so the band was followed by a long line of automobiles, most of which
were gay with the national colors and the Elks' emblems.
TOMORROW IS P.\TRI()TIC D.W
Commandant Miller Freeman of the Training Station, and Miss Pauline
Turner, a Bremerton yeomanette, who is here to sing with the band, were in
the honor place at the head of the line and were greeted with the cheers and
applause which have marked the course of the Naval band wherever that joy-
ous aggregation of young sailors has appeared.
Tomorrow, the closing day of the Fair, will be Patriotic day. Great as has
490 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \'ALLEY
been the success of the Fair so far, Secretary Frank Aleredith promises that it
will pass into history in a final blaze of glory occasioned by the fireworks which
will mark the end of the Fair. From Governor Lister to the least employe of
the Fair, all are convinced that the 1918 Fair is The Fair, insofar as this state
is concerned.
FAIR OFFICIALS PLEASED
"Certainly this is the best Fair I have seen in Yakima," said Governor
Lister, after viewing the display yesterday. "While some of the departments
are not as strongly represented as they have been in the past, the fair is better
balanced, the displays are more diversified, the interest in the fair is greater,
and it is more educational. It is a fine thing for the farmers of the state to
come here and get the lessons which one may derive from the fair and, at the
same time, have a wonderfully enjoyable day. No one who sees the 1918 fair
has any doubt but what it is a State Fair."
Commissioner E. F. Benson is as enthusiastic and a bit more boyish in his
exurberant expression of it. "Yes, sire-ee !" he says, "this is some fair. Why,
I'm almost satisfied myself. Of course we'll have a bigger and better fair next
year — that goes without saying — but this year's fair is the biggest and best yet I"
E. E. Flood, of Spokane, and Dr. Granville Lowther, members of the
State Fair advisory board, are ready to add their forceful commendations to the
general praise chorus for the 1918 exhibition which has attracted more people
than any previous State Fair ever held here.
ATTENDA.XCE KEEPS UP
"Well," exclaimed Auditor F. B. Fuller last evening after the 5 o'clock
check-up on admissions at both gates, "this certainly beats anything I ever saw !
Between 8 o'clock yesterday morning — Governor's Day — and 5 o'clock in the
evening, 6,500 cash admissions were recorded between the two gates.
"This showing for nine hours demonstrates that every day this year has
been in advance of the corresponding day in 1917, at which time the gates
showed for this same date 9,082 for the entire day and night run. In the 6,500
of today we are not including the admissions by season ticket nor the night
shift after 5 o'clock. Since there were something like 1,500 season tickets sold,
it is easily seen that we have beaten our own record of a year ago."
RESULTS OF THE RACES
Results of yesterday's races are:
Bertie Seattle won the final heat of the 2:24 pace in 2:10)4; Joe McK.,
second; Baron Regent, third.
Dean Swift won the second heat of the special race in 2 :08j4 : W'allacc
Hal, second ; May Davis, third.
Dean Swift won the third heat of the special race in 2:085j : Guy Boy, sec-
ond; Wallace Hal, third.
The third race, a $200 selling event for a purse of $75, three furlongs, was
won by On Parole in 36 seconds ; Shortcut, second ; Passe 2d, third.
HISTORY OF YAKOJA VALLEY 491
The fourth event, a $200 selling race for a purse of $150, was won by Far
Cnthay, in 1 :43 ; Leo H., second ; Hazel C, third.
The track was fast and the animals in fettle. The performance of Bertie
Seattle brought forth much admiration from the horse lovers present. On Pa-
role has taken two races, and he, too, attracted considerable attention. Old
horsemen say that he is a sure comer.
BENTON COUNTV EXHIBIT
Benton County, first over the top in the contest of county exhibits, has a
wonderful display not only as to diversity, quantity and arrangements, but in
quality as well. A sunburst, the slanting rays of which are represented by tall
sheaves of wheat, oats, barley and grasses, with three half-circles of red and
white grapes, the lower half circle of which is made from Flame Tokays, and
behind all this a lighted electric lamp, forms the nucleus of the exhibit, which
occupies a space of 30 by 15 feet.
The display is made up of six varieties of field corn, three varieties of sugar
corn, three varieties of popcorn, eighteen varieties of dry grain, ten varieties
of fresh grains, fourteen varieties of forage crops, five varieties of wild grasses.
There are twenty-seven varieties of fruit, besides melons, squashes, pumpkins,
ejjg plant, hops, corn, spuds, sweet potatoes, sugar beets and mangels, as well
as a varied assortment of turnips, carrots, parsnips, tomatoes, pie citron, string
beans and some delicious strawberries.
Among those who donated the exhibits and otherwise helped to make the
display the success it is, are : Fred Servoss, Henry Page, S. M. Ross, Fred
Johnson, Joseph Martin, Mrs. Mary A. Ross, Mrs. T. J. Chalcraft, William
Starkey, Guy Heberling, E. N. Loveland and R. E. Carpenter.
SECOND COUNTV DISPLAY
Pierce County's display, the winner of the second prize in the contest, in
charge of County Horticultural Commissioner Henry Huff and William B.
Hawthorne, is the regulation shelf -style exhibit, but is nonetheless creditable.
Mr. HuiT says most emphatically that if it were not for a sheaf of grain which
was lost and which cost five points. Pierce County would have won the first
prize — yes, sir-ee !
There are thirty-five varieties of grains and seeds, twenty varieties of
fruits and ninety varieties of vegetables, all of which are in a splendid state of
preservation. There are six celery plants of special beauty from Puyallup and
two boxes of curly kale from the same place. There are many varieties of ferns
and Chinese wall flowers grown in Pierce County: eleven varieties of potatoes
which look hard to beat, but good to eat ; blackberries, raspberries, beets, man-
gels, five varieties of field and three varieties of sugar corn ; the grain on dis-
play scored 98 points in bundles and 100 in sheathed grains. Those who con-
tributed to the success of the exhibit with displays of various kinds are: William
Shultz and Jacob Stelling of Puyallup: G. W. Richards of Steilacoom. Henry
Benthien of Fife, Mrs. Catherine Hawthorne and a sister. Miss Anderson, of
Sumner, and also the Commercial clubs of Tacoma, Puvallup and Sumner.
'•Herald," September 21, 1918:
492 HISTORY OF VAKi:\lA A'ALLEY
Yakima people have loyally supported the Washington State Fair this
year. The largest attendance this week was on Yakima day, though Thursday's
total was 10,301, including Seattle and Spokane visitors. Yesterday the at-
tendance fell off considerably, more noticeable on account of immense crowds
the previous days. The check at both gates up to 5 o'clock was 3,607 paid ad-
missions.
During the afternoon the Elks mad; merry in the grandstand with a saucy
band, which ran in competition with the United States Naval Band, which in
turn responded to their fun.
Several stunts were pulled by the Elks. Several of them assisted in lead-
ing the stock as it paraded on the race course back and forth past the grand-
stand. One of the stunts pulled off by the Elks was the attempt of a number
of men to ride the burro Jazzbo. Hal Bowen, by taking ahold of the burro's
ears and buckling his feet under the animal succeeded in staying the longest
and won the five dollar prize that was offered. This was turned over to the
Red Cross.
elks' derby
The interest of the Elks came to a high point when the derby was an-
nounced. There was considerable betting on the event and those who learned
the "inside" of each contestant's mount were positive that they had the right
jockey picked. There were some surprises, however, for the wise ones and
many who bet on the "sure things" had considerable explaining to do to their
friends.
Harr}' Snively won the event and took 60 per cent, of the $200 purse and
entrance money. I. J. Bounds was second and Robert Prior third. Snively
rode Leo H, one of the fastest horses in the stables. Bounds had figured on
getting the mount but through some mysterious maneuver was "beat to it."
Prior rode Far Cathay, a very fast mare, but the rider's weight told on her.
Bounds also had a stable steed of class. Second money was 30 per cent, and
third, 10 per cent.
The time was 1 :56 for the one and one-sixteenth miles, and the event
proved one of the most exciting finishes of the week's racing.
POULTRY .\WARDS
The feathered tribe under H. H. Collier's care has been a splendid exhibit
in many lines. It is one of Mr. Collier's ambitions that before another fair he
may be able to have a new home for the birds. The days have been a little warm
for them, evidenced by their panting, but nevertheless they have had spirit
enough to call attention to their awards.
-Miss Lucy Scudder with her Buff' Orpingtons won the honor of having
the best pen in the show. Miss Scudder has been breeding Buff' Orpingtons for
several years, has kept the stock up to a high standard and has won in practi-
cally all the Pacifict Coast shows. Mrs. Fred Peterson of Chehalis, was second
and Charles E. Buttles of Wenatchee, third.
Other special awards made by Judge W. W. Coats of Vancouver, B. C,
are as follows :
HISTORY OF YAKIMA A'ALLEY 493
Best displays of Plymouth Rocks (Barred excepted)— Mrs. Fred Peterson,
first ; W. P. West, Tacoma, second : A. Hartley, Fernhill, third.
Best displaly Barred Rocks— T. J. Kegley, Olympia, first.
Best display Wyandottes— Milton Morton, first; Fred A. Johnson, Tacoma.
second and third.
Best display of Orpingtons— Lucy R. Scudder, first; Mrs. J. X. Critzer,
Spokane, second.
Best display of Rhode Island Reds— C. E. Buttles, first; Deppner & Son,
Spokane, second: Claude E. Stewart, Wenatchee. third.
Best display of Leghorns (Whites excepted)— Miller Bros., first, second
and third.
Best display of Single Comb White Leghorns— Aliller Bros., first; W. J.
Moore, Spokane, second.
Best display of Minorcas— Dr. W. M. Falkemech, Spokane, first.
Best display of Campines, etc. — Miller Bros., first.
Best display of Bantams— C. H. Burnett, Seattle, first ; Miller Bros., second
and third.
Best Parti-Colored Fowl in show— C. E. Buttles, first and second; T. J.
Kegley, third.
Best solid colored fowl in show— Airs. Ellen B. Wade, first; Milton Mor-
ton, second ; Miller Brothers, third.
Best display of Sussex — A. Eckstrom, Bremerton, first.
Largest display in show— Miller Brothers, first ; Fred A. Johnson, Tacoma,
second ; W. R. Krause, Yakima, third.
INTEREST IX CHILD WELF.\RE
Those in charge of the Child Welfare work at the fair feel that greater
results in reaching, or coming in touch with parents have been attained this
year. All the supply of pamphlets on social hygiene for parents have been ex-
hausted, the clinics which have been held free of charge by Doctors Bline,
Ketchum and Sickenga have been well attended, and the day nursery with its
cozy, clean accommodations has been a very popular place. As many as one
hundred babies were accommodated there in one day.
The three jar exhibit of canned products from county canning clubs makes
a tempting display in one corner of the Machinery Building, as 380 girls from
twenty-seven counties sent 350 jars of stuff. The best twelve jars of the whole
exhibit have been selected to be sent to Washington, D. C, for display. In this
collection are three cans of salmon, two of beets, and one each of corn, beef,
beans, greens, carrots, cauliflower and cherries. The second best twelve that
go to the Washington State College are composed of two of beans, one each of
wild blackberries, rabbit, chicken, corn, beets, tomatoes, peas, cherries, greens
and salmon.
.\UCT10X OFF CANNED FRUIT
Most of the collection is in pint cans, exceedingly appetizing to look at,
and guaranteed to kce]i, when one thinks of the experts that canned them. The
remainder of the exhibit will be auctioned oft' this afternoon hv Commissioner
494 HISTORY OF YAKLMA A'ALLEY
of Agriculture E. F. Benson, directly after the last race, the benefit to go for
the Belgian Baby fund, which the girls hope to swell to a considerable amount.
This auction will be an opportunity for many to buy canned products that they
could not get otherwise.
Of course, a great deal of interest is felt in the result of the canning con-
test, which will be decided this afternoon, the winning teams going to the next
Spokane Interstate Fair, and to the Oregon State Fair at Salem next week.
Decisions have been made in the pig club contests, resulting in Whitman County
being first, Klickitat second, and Spokane third. In the sheep club contest,
Thurston County was first, Benton second, and Columbia third. In the boys'
and girls' exhibits, Yakima County was first, Benton second, Spokane third,
and Grays Harbor fourth. The sweepstakes prize went also to the counties as
named.
PROSSER BOV WTNS ON CORN
For the fifty best ears of select seed corn grown by a boy, William Starkey
of Prosser won first premium. Julia Boone and Gladys Rummings of Cheney
were first and second for the best five canned vegetables, put up by girls over
15. Under 15 years of age Martha and Jean ]\IcAuley of this city won the pre-
miums for canned vegetables.
Yesterday morning Robert Krohn and members of the county clubs had
their daily frolic of games, folk dances and songs on the floor under the tent
where the dancing is held later in the day. It attracted much attention and
their games were so enticing that gradually a number of the spectators joined
them in their play, and others of older ages, remarked that they used to play
those same games when they were children.
FIREWORKS TONIGHT
Those who saw the fireworks on Tuesday night will vouch for their great
beauty and anticipate seeing another glorious bunch of them set ofif tonight,
as a fitting close to a week that has been full of good clean entertainment, and
features of great educational value. If anything the fireworks this evening
will surpass those of Tuesday evening. There will be a change in the stories
the set pieces illustrate and interspersed will be the rockets, signals and torches
that caused so much admiration the other night, .\nother attraction for today
is the auto race, the last thing on the speed program.
HUM.\NE DISPL.W PRETTV
The display of the Humane Society has attracted much attention for its
artistic arrangement. There has been a marked interest in the literature and
the work of the society. The half hour of lantern slides and talk on humane
work by Mrs. J. C. Nichols of Seattle, has called out a good attendance. Tnc
society has had two ponies collecting money for the Red Star Society to be sent
to the aid of animals wounded on the battlefields in France while in action.
The little banks will be opened tonight and contents counted, the money then
being turned over to one of the local banks for transmission to the society head-
quarters at Albany, New York.
HISTORY OF YAKI.MA \'ALL1:Y 495
A world's trotting record was broken on the race track at the State Fair
grounds yesterday, when Cavalier Gale, son of the old trotter Barongale, him-
self a colt champion in his day, circled the track in 2:08^4, clipping a full sec-
ond from the fastest time ever credited to a hobbled trotter. The diagonal
gaited ones that wear the straps are few enough these days, since the pacer has
come into increased popularity, and as Judge McNair of the races says, the
broken record was made so long ago that many had forgotten there was such a
mark. Cavalier Gale was driven by Fred Woodcock, a well known driver here,
and it was in the second heat that he opened up wide enough to show his speed
and set the new figures.
week's .aver.\ge good
The Yakima track contributed something to the good performance of the
trotter for it was "bullet fast" as the pharse goes, and has been so all week.
This is manifested by the report made up to last night by Judge McNair to be
sent in to the governing association. There have been, up to last night, forty-
eight heats contested on the track this week by harness horses and the average
of speed for the number is 2:09 3-5. This is a splendid showing. It is a tribute
to the work of Con Hohmeyer, who has the track in charge and who kept it in
that condition throughout the week for the sport offering. Another day re-
mains with a nice program, to be followed by a special ten-mile free-for-all
automobile contest.
Lady Hal was driven to victory yesterday at the State Fair races in the
free-for-all pace by a green driver, D. J. McDonald, of Winnipeg, who pur-
chased the animal at Chehalis before coming here. This is the first event in
which Mr. McDonald ever drove for money, but he showed a steady nerve in
competing for the $700 purse. Lady Hal went under the wire the first three
heats and was easily the master of the field. The best time was ZiO?^^. Dick
Mayburn was scratched, a fact which took from the interest in the event.
Lady Hal goes from here to Salem, where she will compete for a $2,000
])urse against a field of fast California horses and others. McDonald, who is
a well-to-do lumberman, is said to have paid $1,500 for the animal, buving it
from D. E. Witt.
H. H. Helman, a well-known driver here, drove Alack Fitzsimmons, a
speedy animal, against McDonald. Mack Fitzsimmons came in second and
May Davis third.
Lady Hal was trained by J. J. Carson, a veteran trainer. He is the man
who trained College Gent, the animal that won the free-for-all pace here at the
fair last year.
c.\v.\lier g.\le wins
Cavalier Gale took the 2:19 trot, winning the second and third heats. Red
Star had the better of the argument in the first heat, with Cavalier Gale second,
but the latter easily showed his ability over the field after the first event. Com-
plete and Bon Fire did not worry either of the two leading horses at any time.
The second heat, which was the fastest one, was driven in 2:08%.
Lady Major won the Indian Handicap of five furlongs. The purse was
$75. Kid Morcll took second and Joiner C ran third. The time was 1 -.OSli.
CHAPTER VII
THE PRESS OF THE YAKIMA VALLEY
THE FIRST PAPER — ADVS. IN THE FIRST ISSUE OF THE "rECORd" THE "sIGNAL''
THE "localizer" DEATH OF D. J. SCHNEBLY THE "SPECTATOR" AND ITS
EDITORS LATER NEWSPAPERS AND SPECIAL PUBLICATIONS OF YAKIMA AND
ELLENSBURG — TRANSIENT PAPERS OF YAKIMA AND ELLENSBURG — PAPERS OF
THE OTHER TOWNS — THE PRESS IN THE SMALLER TOWNS OF YAKIMA COUNTY
THE PRESS IN BENTON COUNTY PROSSER PAPERS — INDIAN^ CAYUSE AND
COYOTE IRRIGATED LANDS NEAR PROSSER THE NORTHERN PACIFIC COMPANY'
PROSSER PROSSER's WATER POWER HORSE HEAVEN COUNTRY KIONA AND
— BENTON CITY PAPERS KENNEWICK PAPERS KENNEWICK ON THE COLUMBIA
We refer in various chapters of this work to the newspapers and make
many extracts, of editorials, as well as news items and advertisements. Our
aim in this chapter is to give as nearly as may he, a comprehensive summary
of the journalistic history of the valley. For the sake of unity we shall cover
the entire valley embracing Yakima, Kittitas and Benton counties, in the one
general survey. While different journals have had each its special locality to
promote and its special constituency to please and profit, and incidentally to
profit by, the general conditions throughout the valley have been similar. In
several instances, too, there has been considerable transference of the leading
journalists from one section to another. Hence we believe that our judgment
will be sustained by our readers in embracing in one chapter the newspaper
history of the whole valley.
There are a number of men in the dift'erent towns, some still actively en-
gaged in newspaper work, who were here at the beginning. From these men,
and from others who came later, and in some instances from the children of
the first journalists, we have derived the data from which this chapter is com-
posed. We can not within the limits of our space give extended narratives of
all the journals of the valley. It will be our aim to give the leading place in
the story to the pioneer papers and those which by reason of location and man-
agement have been the chief expression of the newspaper life of their commu-
nities. We shall then give an enumeration of the later papers with their
founders. We have been so fortunate as to secure from Mr. C. B. Bagley of
Seattle some of the earliest issues of the pioneer papers of the Yakima Valley.
Mr. Bagley was the editor of the "Courier" in the early days and he had a suffi-
cient regard for the historian to preserve his exchanges. Pie has without ques-
tion the best private collection of old papers of any one in the state. Through
his courtesy we have had access to his files. We have understood from tlic
publishers of both Yakima and EUensburg that some of the earliest issues are
unattainable in those cities.
496
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 497
THE FIRST PAPER
In Mr. Bagley's collection we find a copy of the first paper published in
Yakima. This is the "Yakima Record." The date of Number 1, Volume 1, is
September 6, 1879. It was published by the Record Publishing Company, Rich-
ard V. Chadd being general manager. Mr. Chadd is undoubtedly entitled to
the distinction of being the trail breaker of all the newspaper men of Yakima.
Not only was he the first in Yakima City, but, as founder of the "Kittitas
Standard" in Ellensburg, of which the first number was issued on June 16,
1883, he was first in that part of the valley also.
As we are sure that our readers will enjoy a sight of the editorial page of
that first Yakima paper, we reproduce it here. Some of the news items also
will be "iTiighty interestin' readin' ", as Horace Greeley would say. We ac-
cordingly include some of them.
"We trust that those who subscribe toward starting the paper will now
come forward and pay in their quota. W'e have complied with our terms of
the agreement, and will do so in the future. There remains yet a small amount
due the type foundry in San Francisco. We have promised to pay this imme-
diately. Our own means have become exhausted and we are compelled to ask
the subscribers to pay up. There is sufficient of the original subscription money
yet unpaid to meet this obligation, and therefore we trust our friends will not
cause us to forfeit our promise to the type founders. We shall shortly publish
the names of those parties who have paid, and whose just spirit of enterprise
and liberality has enabled us to do what has been done. Those gentlemen have
long felt the need of a newspaper in this locality to properly represent the ad-
vantages of this county as a desirable place for settlement to immigrants now
seeking this Territory in search of homes. It will be our aim not to disappoint
them in this respect. At least we shall try to fulfill that duty. It will be a
pleasant task, too, for we have seldom visited a locality which holds more in-
ducements to the farmer or agriculturist than Yakima County."
"We do not propose to make any apology at this early day, but if ever a
man has been bothered with vexatious and unnecessary delay we are that indi-
vidual. First our ink roller melted down, and we had to send it back to The
Dalles to have it re-cast. We received it a week ago Friday last, made a few
swift remarks about our business (something which they knew very little about)
and ten days have expired and our roller is not here. Then on unpacking we
discovered that the column rules had been left behind. We have written a dozen
letters to hurry them up, and they are not here yet. Finally we borrowed some
labor-saving rule of Mr. Bell, of Ellensburgh, and by piecing out with 'ad'
rules, succeeded in manufacturing columns. If we have not a small dose of—
ginger — we don't know who has, without taking in consideration minor vexa-
tions."
"Nearly four months ago, in a conversation with one of the principal citi-
zens of this county, at Goldendale, the subject was broached of startins a new-;-
498 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \ALLEY
paper in Yakima. We frankly told him we hadn't the means ourself to accom-
pHsh our aim. He told us there would be no difficulty in raising sufficient to
start. The subject had been mentioned incidentally to us sometime previously,
but nothing looking toward doing anything had been accomplished till the
above conversation occurred. Shortly after this we came to Yakima to look
at the field. It was a matter of surprise to us that it had not been occupied long
previously. The people know how we accomplished our purpose. They have
liberally encouraged this enterprise, knowing with certainty that their means
have been well invested in something which will be of advantage to the whole
community. They have performed their portion of the enterprise, it remains
to do our part. Today we present our readers with the first number of the
"Yakima Record." If we do say it ourself, there is not a neater paper in the
Territory. As to what shall appear in it from time to time we shall let the
future tell, and our readers be the judges. Of one thing they can rest assured
that nothing shall appear in it to offend the most modest. On political questions
we shall maintain an independent position — support whom we please, provided
he is honest and capable. Our principal aim, however, will be to write up the
vast and varied resources of this region, hoping thereby to attract to our midst
a frugal and industrious population. Hoping this programme will suit we make
our bow to the public."
"Upon mature deliberation we have concluded to fix the rates of subscrip-
tion at the following figures: One year, if paid in advance, $3; if not in ad-
vance, $4; six months, in advance, $1.50: if not in advance, $2; three months,
in advance, $1 ; and if not in advance, $1.25. We thus make it quite a consid-
eration to pay in advance. We shall not deviate from this to friend or foe. So
send in subscriptions and send the money along. It saves keeping books."
"Shot at.^ — On Monday night last as Mr. Wallace Rose, who resides on
the Wenas, was riding up the creek, and when about six miles above Cam-
eron's, some unknown assassin fired upon him from the thick brush at the side
of the road. The ball passed through his hat. Rose immediately spurred up
his horse, attempting to get out of the way, but before he could do so another
shot was fired at him. Mr. Rose cannot conceive who it was, as he does not
think he has an enemy in the world. There are various opinions in the neigh-
borhood concerning the matter, but most agree on one point, and that is, the
shots were intended for another person, but in the imperfect light of the moon
the assassin mistook his man. Some of the neighbors the next morning went
to the spot and endeavored to track the fellow. The tracks where he stood on
the soft ground in the bushes were plain to be seen, but on striking hard ground
they disappeared."
"H.\r.o CuMTUx. — For several days past our office has been an object of
intense curiosity upon the part of the Indians. They took the press for some
sort of a new-fangled cannon. One old fellow in particular asked us if the
type was bullets. Our answer was 'Nowitka.' We asked him if he "Cumtuxed?'
and he 'Halo-ed' in short metre."
HISTORY OF YAKBIA VALLEY 499
"On Saturday night, October U, 1879, at the courthouse in Yakima City,
there will be a meeting to organize a Pioneer Association for Yakima County,
of all persons who resided in said county on the day the first issue of this paper
was published. Turn out all professions and pursuits. Come, ye honest sons
of toil! Come, ye who have braved the storms of pioneer life! Come, ye
whose matchless valor has never quailed before war-whoops and scalping-
knives! Come one, come everybody, and let us add to the renown of the great
Yakima X'alley, by organizing a permanent society which will be a perpetual
monument to those who first penetrated the sage land of Yakima and brought
order out of chaos, and made the so-called "desert blossom as the rose." "
"Rough on Tiie.m. — A couple of our young gentlemen friends, who reside
on the Wenas, not long ago concluded to give their young lady friends a treat
in the shape of a pleasure ride to town. Accordingly they hitched up their team,
and after getting the girls all comfortably tucked in the wagon, all proceeded
joyously on their way to town. Arriving here safely they visited the stores
and after purchasing a few 'goodies' concluded to go to the photographers and
have their pictures taken. This was finally done to their satisfaction, and they
joyfully wended their way homeward, but, mind you, it was late in the after-
noon, and they had the wicked Naches to ford. Everything was lovely till this
was reached and there the 'tug of war' began. The river was higher than it is
now and much more difficult to ford, besides it was late. In crossing, their
team stalled in the middle of the river. Persuasion, coaxing nor whipping could
not move them an inch, and finally the young men were compelled to jump in
the water and carry the young ladies ashore. This was a ticklish job taking
everything into consideration, but it was finally done to the satisfaction of all
parties. The boys then proceeded to get their wagon and team out of the difli-
culty. In doing this they got a glorious ducking, but they had good grit and
stuck to it till everything was ashore once more, when they proceeded home-
ward. It was rough on the boys but fun for the girls. Now guess who it was."
""Agext Api'f)iXTED. — We are pleased to note that the Oregon and Wash-
ington Colony Land Company have appointed our townsman, E. P. Boyls, as
their local agent at this jilace. Through the efforts of this company is mainly
attributable the settlement of various localities in this section. The object of
this company is to receive lands and sell them; locate colonies thereon, and to
publish books, papers and documents relating thereto. These are circulated in
the east, and thus an excellent medium of advertising the country afforded.
Mr. Boyls, the agent here, is duly authorized to transact all business in the way
of selling or advertising for sale all lands entrusted to the company to be dis-
posed of. The company has been duly incorporated, and is officered by men in
whom the people have confidence, William A. Lewis being president and W. W.
Gibbs secretary. In a future issue we shall have more to say concerning its
workings."
'"The 'Si'dKAX.' — This favorite light draft boat, which has been laid up
opposite Ccliln f(ir the past eight month-, took her place on the Snake River
500
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Line on Mondav last, under the command of Capt. Alfred Pingston. Si Smith
goes on her as pilot, John Anderson as chief engineer and McCammon as purser.
It is said that she will carry fifteen tons more freight than the 'Gates,' but
DeHuff has no idea she is her equal for speed. She took up 84^ tons in fifteen
hours and that was a capital run for her. Her trade is Snake River exclusively,
as the amount of grain to be shipped from the Tukanon Landing alone this
year is in excess of 10,000 tons, according to the best authorities. Much of
this can be gotten out in the next sixty days, if the water does not
run down too rapidly in the meantime. Shippers are slow at sending
along their grain as yet, on account of the low prices ; but they can't do better
than to ship now and pay the storage in Portland, thus availing themselves of
the chances of a rise in the market, should the boom take place during the
usual freeze up. This they could not do if they stored their grain at home
during the Winter months, or at warehouses on the river, as in seasons that
are past. — "Inland Empire.' "
Much light is cast on conditions by a perusal of advertisements. We ac-
cordingly add here a part of the advertisements of the first number of the
"Record."
The Latest
New Goods and Late Novelties 1
P. T. Gervais
Keeps on Hand a Well Selected
Stock of
Staple and Fancy Goods, Hats and
Caps, Gents" and Boys' Clothing,
Boots and Shoes
In Short a Large Variety of General
Merchandise !
"Quick Sales and Small Profits"
Thanking customers for past fa-
vors, I hope to merit a continuance of
the same.
P. T. Gervais.
The Cheapest Place to Trade
is at
Shoud}- & Stewarts
EUensburgh. W. T.
Wholesale and Retail Establishment.
The largest and best stock in Yaki-
ma County. And Sold Cheap for
Cash.
J. W. Goodwin W. J. Goodwin
Goodwin Brothers
Blacksmiths and Horseshoers
Main Street, Y'akima City
All kinds of Jobbing Work prompt-
ly executed. Repairing a specialty.
Canaday's Mill
Near EUensburgh, W. T.
Milton & Robt. N. Canaday, Pro-
prietors.
The proprietors beg leave to an-
nounce that they are now prepared to
furnish a fir.st-class article in Flour.
Custom work promjjtly attended to.
Humboldt's Saloon
EUensburgh, W. T.
Is the Place Where You Can Get
the Best
Beer, Wines and Liquor
Call and Sample.
.\lso the l-'est Brands of Cigars Kept
on Hand.
W". H. Packwood. Propr
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
501
The Yakima rianing Mills!
Welch & -Millican, Proprietors
Is ready to do all kinds of work in
their line of business, such as con-
tracting and building houses of all de-
scription, sizes and styles, by contract
or otherwise.
Planing wide lumber, tongue and
grooving, flooring, making rustic or
siding and moulding of all sizes and
descriptions.
Door and window frames, and job
work to suit the times.
Finishing lumber and moulding of
all kinds kept for sale.
Repairing done at short notice and
at low figures.
L. F. Gardener & Sons,
Blacksmiths and Horseshoers,
Cor. Broadway and Garden Row
Goldendale, W. T.
Custom and logging work promptly
done. The making of fine spurs a
specialty. Orders from abroad
promptly filled.
The New Restaurant & Hotel
Louis Adams, Proprietor.
The above hotel is kept on the
European plan. The beds are nen:
and clean and clear of vermin.
Terms :
Meals and Beds, 25 cts. and Upwards
Travellers can be Assured of Every
Attention.
City Hotel
Main Street, Yakima City, W. T.
David Guilland, Proprietor
The above well-known hotel is al-
ways open to the traveling public. The
cuisine department is under the im-
mediate supervision of the landlady,
who keeps its tables supplied with the
best the market aiifords.
Prices Moderate to Suit the Times
Patrons can rely upon being treated
with courtesy, and securing a quiet
and respectable resort.
Gem Saloon
^lain Street, Yakima City.
Al. Churchill, Proprietor.
The above popular place of resort
has recently been refitted and refur-
nished throughout, and none but the
best brands of Wines, Liquors and
Cigars are furnished to patrons. Call
and sample.
Yakima City Brewery!
First Street. Yakima City.
The undersigned would respectful-
ly inform the citizens of Yakima City
and vicinity that he will always keei)
on hand a superior quality of Lager
Beer.
A Share of Public Patronage is
Solicited.
Chas. Schanno, Prop'r.
In 18S3 Mr. Chadd sold the "Record" to Capt. C. M. Holton, who adopted
for the paper the name of "Yakima Republican." Captain Holton was a news-
paper man of great energy and of somewhat strong likes and dislikes which
he did not scruple to express. The policy of the "Republican" under his man-
agement was to support the Northern Pacific Railroad in the somewhat bitter
controversy in regard to its land grant and the removal of the city to the new
site of Xorth Yakima.
The "Republican" was conducted on that historic migration from Yakima
City in 1885 and located in the new town, by Captain Holton, who disposed
of the paper to L. E. Sperry. In the meantime, in 1889, the name " Yakima
502 HISTORY OF YAKDIA WALLEY
Republic" was adopted. In 1898 Col. W. W. Robertson became owner and
editor, and of his conspicuous ability and success in the management no
Yakima' reader needs to be told. In October, 1903, the "Daily Republic" was
established, the first permanent daily in the valley. While the "Republic" has
been known from the beginning as a republican paper, it has been quite inde-
pendent, and its editor is in the habit of using strong and expressive language
in which to embody his convictions on all lines, political, social, literary, and
religious. The "Republic" is recognized throughout the Northwest as one of
the leading journalistic factors of the state.
THE "signal"
The "Record" naturally could not monopolize so inviting a field for any
long time, and in 1883 a rival appeared.
This was the "Yakima Signal.' Here, too, Mr. Bagley's invaluable col-
lection comes to our assistance, and we have before us Number 1 of \'olume
1 of the "Signal." The editors and proprietors were J. yi. and Mrs. V. D.
Adams.
Mr. Adams is recalled by every one that knew him as a man of great
force and ability, one of the most accomplished newspaper men of the state.
We have had occasion in several places in this work to refer to Mr. Adams
and his attitude in the railroad war. He founded his paper at a pivotal time
both in the history'of Yakima and the state (Territory) as well as of the coun-
try at large. Locally, it was just the beginning of the "Big Boom" and of
the first connection by rail between the Territory and the east. Nationally it
was the era both of tremendous internal development and of the alignment of
anti-monopoly and populistic forces against the aggressions of corporate
wealth. Mr. Adams was the champion of these anti-monopoly forces. .Al-
though he had been a republican and continued for some time to attend con-
ventions of that party, he was known as an independent leader and as time
passed he broke loose from his party moorings and became the acknowledged
leader of the fusion elements which in 1884 and 1886 seated C. S. Voorhees
as delegate to Congress.
The "Signal" was an eight-page paper and contained much news from
home and abroad. Its editorial page has much matter worthy of preserva-
tion here. We accordingly make liberal extracts. It will be seen that some
of these editorials bear upon the railroad question.
"Upon this the first Saturday of the new year we place before the public
the first number of the "Yakima Signal." It has now been several months
since our primary steps were taken in this direction and although we have
studiously avoided making any public announcement of an intention to begin
its publication at an earlier date the public of this vicinity have nevertheless
been for some time expecting the "Signal" to make its appearance. Unfor-
tunately, and without any fault or omission on our jKirt. we have encountered
several vexatious obstacles which have occasioned unavoidable delay. We re-
solved at the outset that before calling upon the public for support; or, in
other words, that before attempting to publish a newspaper we would first
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 503
supply our establishment with all of the mechanical appliances necessary for
publishing a paper large enough and in other respects good enough to merit
respect at home and reflect credit abroad upon the intelligent and generous
people from whose county it shall emanate and upon whom it must mainly
rely for support. Remotely and unfavorably situated as we are with refer-
ence to transportation facilities, the gathering together of a large stock of
printing office appurtenances is no light undertaking at best. Our delay ha.-.
been occasioned in the main, however, by certain unpardonable blunders on
the part of certain careless type-foundrymen of San Francisco, to whom we
reserve the privilege of paying our respects at some future time.
"As to the 'Signal's' merits as a journal we shall leave it to the public
to judge for themselves. It is at least not our purpose to put forth in this con-
nection any extravagant promises. We shall only agree to take the fullest
possible advantage of our opportunities and do at all times the very best that
circumstances will permit. However well or poorly we may succeed, our read-
ers may rely upon it that an earnest, patient eflfort will be made to make the
'Signal" in every respect a readable, reliable newspaper — not only one of the
largest but also one of the best published in the Northwest. Each issue, in
addition to local news, will contain a synopsis of the news of the week, gath-
ered together from all parts of Washington Territory, from all parts of the
Pacific Coast, and from all parts of the United States — thus making it, in
effect,
'A faithful map of busy life.
Its fluctuations and its vast concerns.'
"Editorially the 'Signal' will be an independent exponent of whatever it
may conceive to be right and an uncompromising antagonist of whatever it
may conceive to be wrong; and in forming its conceptions of right and wrong
it will be governed by the interests of no party, sect, combination, corpora-
tion or clique. Having once placed upon our subscription books the names
of confiding citizens and received their money in payment for an honest news-
paper, it will not feel at liberty to afterwards enter into any agreement with
third parties by which its utterances upon any subject may be hampered or
controlled. Believing that the obligations of a newspaper to its readers are
no less sacred than are the obligations of a lawyer to his clients, it will be
editorially true to its readers and will subsist upon the legitimate profits of
journalism or perish for want of support.
"Are the people ready for such a journal? Will they step forward and
aid us in our undertaking? We shall await their answer."
"A new railroad land office has recently been started at Sprague for the
sale of Northern Pacific lands. The agent located there has been instructed
to sell no first-class agricultural lands for less than four dollars per acre. Some
of it is sold for prices considerably higher than four dollars per acre, thus
making the average charge four and a half dollars. One-eighth of each tract
purchased is required to be broken the first year, one-fifth of the purchase
money being required in advance, the balance within five years at seven per
504 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
cent, interest. Some people consider these terms very generous on the part
of the company. Let us see: Putting the average price paid for the land at
four dollars (and this is no doubt one or two dollars lower than the average
actually is) the company receives for each 640 acre section the snug little sum
of $2,560. Immediately opposite each mile of the company's railroad they
receive from the government forty sections of land — twehty sections on each
side. Multiplying the amount received for each section by forty we get the
amount of land donated by the government (in the shape of public lands)
'to aid' in building each mile of this road. It amounts to $102,400. For gen-
erosity's sake we will knock ofif the $2,400, leaving an even $100,000 worth
of land opposite each mile of road. It may be pleaded that a great portion of
the land will not sell for as much as four dollars an acre, owing to its being
mountainous and unfit for farming. This is true. But all such portions of
the grant that are not agricultural in character may be classed either as timber
lands or as grazing lands and as such will not likely be valued by the company
at less than from one to two and a half dollars an acre. The government tim-
ber land is not purchasable for less than $2.50 per acre and there is no law
under which grazing land can be purchased from the government for less,
than $1.25 per acre. It is not likely that the company would place a valuation
upon its lands lower than these figures, if as low. But in order to make abund-
ant allowance for all such lands we will make a further reduction of one-half
of the above amount, leaving the valuation of the grant for each mile $50,0(K)'
instead of $100,000. Railroads may be built through almost any part of the
United States for $25,000 a mile, and most roads cost even less than that.
"If these figures are correct (and they are surely not wanting in liberality
to the company) the land grant will not only pay for constructing the road
but will leave a surplus of $25,000 per mile 1 Considering that this immense
sum of money will be mostly drawn from the scanty earnings of poor, hard-
working settlers we can not help thinking of the old adage which declares that
the chief instrument which operates to keep poor people poor is their pov-
erty ; for it is indeed too true that 'to those who have much, much is given.'
"The high price charged by the company for the land is not, however^
the worst feature in the case. The announcement is made of a sale of nearly
all the land of the N. P. R. R. in Minnesota and Dakota, east of the Missouri
River, amounting to nearly three million acres, to English and Boston capi-
talists. The price agreed on is four dollars per acre, to be paid in preferred
stock of the company, which will be retired.
"It would seem from this and from numerous announcements of similar
purchasers in different parts of the United States that the English landlord is
not satisfied with having his brawny foot upon the necks of the Irish peasantry
but that he is also finding room there under the American settler upon what
ought to be the public domain. Over in Uncle Sam's 'land of the free' the-
English land shark will find a broad field for the exercise of his relentless
cupidity. He will find in connection with the public lands one set of laws for
the rich and another for the poor. He will find that the settler's claim is made
forfeitable upon slight technicalities while a railroad company is permitted 'to-
have and to hold' land enough to found an empire regardless of the fact that
HISTORY OF YAKIMA X'ALLEY 505
under its contract with the government all of its claim thereto has been clearly
forfeited."
••Just south of Yakima City lies a large section of country in which is in-
cluded what most people would at once concede to be the very finest body of
agricultural land in Washington Territory. Some of this land is covered with
a heavy growth of sagebrush and the remainder by tall, luxuriant ryegrass.
Properly speaking it is the Toppenish Valley, the one in which our town is sit-
uated being the valley of the Ahtanum. The Toppenish Valley is not only
traversed by a large unfailing stream of that name but also by the Satus, a
clear, sparkling river which flows from the Simcoe Mountains across the valley
and empties into the Yakima some eight miles above the valley's southern
boundary. On the whole of this vast and magnificent valley there is not to be
found a single white settler. In fact one may travel over thousands of acre'=
of it without seeing a single living being save here and there a jack-rabbit scamp-
ering through the tall grass, a badger burrowing in the mellow loam, a wild
curlew screaming its lonely blast high up in the warm sunshine, or perhaps a
drowsy little owl that sits nodding its useless life aw-ay or haply complaining
to the moon, like the owl in the Eleg}-, for being occasionally molested in its
ancient solitary reign.
"But why has not this delightful country been made the home of thousands
of happy, industrious people? Why is it left as an abode for the owl and the
badger? Why has the great throng of home-seekers passed over it and located
in less favored places? It is because this beautiful valley is included in the
reservation of the Yakima Indians. But where are the Indians? Why are they
not cultivating it and Rowing prosperous and wealthy from its products?
Simply because it is not in the nature of most Indians to do these things ; because
most of them, clad in blankets and with painted faces, would rather rove among
the far-of¥ mountains or loaf around some town where they can stand and gaze
in listless stupidity upon the varied industrial operations of white men. Once
in a while, however, we find among them a worthy individual who is making
a commendable effort to overcome the wild promptings of his original nature
and act like a white man. Such individuals are deserving of praise and en-
couragement. Even the most worthless member of the tribe is not deserving
of blame or abuse for being what he is. He is precisely what a combination of
circumstances over which he had no control have resulted in making him. He
is an Indian ; and being an Indian he is the legitimate heir of savage life while
the white man is the heir of a remote line of civilized ancestry. Hence it is
that when we come across a white man possessed of no better sense of man-
ners than an Indian we think much less of him than we do of the Indian. It
seems to us the very height of senselessness to bemean the Indian for not being
a white man. The part of wisdom is to take the Indian as we find him and
do all in our power to make him what he should be.
"To this end it is generally conceded by Western people that there should
be a radical departure from the present Indian policy; that these nondescript
wards of the nation should be given lands in severalty and made self-support-
506 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \ALLEY
ing : that to encourage cultivation of the soil, the soil should belong to the cul-
tivator instead of to the tribe in general ; and that such reservation lands as may
be left after each Indian shall have been supplied should be made subject to
acquisition by white settlers.
"A movement has recently been inaugurated by our citizens looking to the
opening up, on this principle, of that portion of the Yakima Reservation which
includes the fine agricultural land above alluded to. This movement, if wisely
and judiciously carried forward, might result in hastening desired action on
the part of Congress and the "Signal" will watch its progress with interest,
believing it to be a matter of paramount importance to Yakima County."
The "Signal" was opposed, of course, to the removal of the town to North
Yakima, but perforce had to go along with the rest of the reluctant citizens of
the "Old Town."
x\h. Adams had made a deal with James R. Coe for the transfer of the
"Signal" and was just on the eve of moving in 1886 to the new town, when
some evil-minded enemy blew 'up the "Signal" Building.
Mr. Coe is a resident of Yakima at the present time and he detailed to the
author most interestingly the event of the blowing up of the building and the
hopeless scattering of the type. However, what was left of the paper was moved
according to plan, and Mr. Coe became established there in 1889 as the second
newspaper man in North Yakima. In 1888 he had a transient paper, the
"Democrat." In 1889 he joined with E. M. Reed in the union of his former
enterprise with the "Yakima Herald." In 1893 Mr. Coe sold his interest in the
"Herald" to his partner, Mr. Reed, who in turn, in September, 1897, sold to
George F. Tuesley and C. F. Bailey. In 1898 Mr. Bailey disposed of his share
of the business to Robert McComb. In Februarj-, 1904, E. L. Boardman
bought out Mr. McComb. Messrs. Tuesley and Boardman published the "Her-
ald" for a few months, when Mr. Boardman retired. Mr. Tuesley conducted the
paper until April 1, 1912, when W. W. Robertson acquired the paper and
has continued the management in conjunction with the "Republic." The
"Herald" became a morning paper in 1905. At present date it holds the morn-
ing field and the "Republic" the field of the afternoon. Thus we find the lead-
ing newspaper interest and influence in Yakima the resultant of two lines of
succession blending at last in the person of Mr. Robertson. The "Weekly
Herald" was merged with the "Weekly Republic" in 1912.
The former of these lines was the Record-Republican-Republic line, un-
der ihe successive management of Messrs. Chadd, Holton, Sperry, Robertson.
the latter was the Signal-Democrat-Herald line of succession, with the man-
agement in Messrs. Adams, Coe, Coe and Reed, Tuesley and Bailey, Tuesley
and McComb, Tuesley and Boardman, and Robertson. It makes a most inter-
esting history.
W'e learned from Mv. Coe the character of the sudden and tragic death
of the brilliant and influential first editor of the "Signal," J. M. Adams. After
disposing of his paper he went to Spokane to live. In 1893 he was in North
Yakima, and while in Mr. Coe's office, was taken with a sudden hemorrhage,
fell to the floor and almost immediately expired. He was in the prime of life
HISTORY ()!• YAKIMA WVLLEY 507
and his death was a great loss to the journalistic profession. It was rather a
singular coincidence that Mr. Chadd, the pioneer of all the journalists, had
previously been called with an equal suddenness. He died in his office at Ellens-
burg, stricken with a cerebral attack on September 10, 1885, just following the
great demonstration connected with the presence in the town of Delegate
Charles \'oorhees.
As we have seen, Mr. Chadd went from Yakima to Ellensburgh in 1883,
and on June 16th, issued the first number of the "Kittitas Standard." We
have copious extracts from the "Standard," editorials, news, and advertise-
ments, in the chapters on Kittitas County and Ellensburg, in Part III. We
present here, however, the Salutatory, as it may be called, in Number 2, on
June 22, 1883. The first number of the "Standard" was fragmentary on ac-
count of some untoward circumstances, and hence the issue of June 23d was
practically the first. The announcement is as follows:
"We want correspondents from every nook and dale of this section. We
want the 'Standard' to take the lead in advertising the resources of this section,
and we mean it shall. Our friends can aid us materially if they only will. Send
along every item you can think of, no matter what it is. We will put it in shape
for publication. N!ow then let us all put our shoulders to the wheel, and see
what can be done for this section. You now have a paper to aid your eiiforts —
one which will be for this section first, last and all the time. This will
be our programme for the future, and one to which we will strictly adhere. We
realize that this section of our Territory is second to none in capability of de-
velopment. In the past we have sought to make known its resources, and now
that we are here propose to devote our whole time and attention to this sub-
ject. Friends can contribute material aid. Write for the paper. Take it, and
then send it abroad to friends."
"Today we present the 'Standard' entire, and we hope in a week or two
to have things running smoothly. We have worked night and day upon the
present issue, and labored under a series of vexations which would make a
parson swear but we did keep our temper. We trust the people will welcome
the 'Standard' with warm and open hearts. It shall be our aim to make it a
welcome visitor to every fireside in the valley."
THE "localizer."
Next in point of time and first in many respects of the newspapers was the
"Kittitas Localizer." In the same station among newspaper men was its man-
ager and editor, David J. Schnebly.
Mr. Schnebly was one of the truly great pioneers of the Northwest. He
was already in elderly life when he entered upon his journalistic career in
Ellensburgh. But his life had been devoted to the newspaper profession. He
had gone to Oregon in 1850 and became the editor of the "Oregon Spectator,"'
the first paper on the Pacific Coast. Mr. Schnebly was an editorial writer of
great power and discrimination. He was more scholarly and dignified than
508 HISTORY OF YAKIMA WVLLEY
was the case with a good many of his professional brethren. That fact, how-
ever, did not in any degree lessen the vigor of his opinions or the sting of his
criticisms.
The first number of the "Localizer" appeared on July 12, 1883. Thus it was
less than a month younger than the "Standard."
A cjuaint story is told in the little History of Kittitas Valley by the children
of the sixth grade of the Edison school. It is to this efTect: "Mr. Sclinebly
owned the 'Localizer' and Mr. Chadd the 'Standard.' Each man said that his
paper was first. Mr. J. R. Wallace wrote for both papers. He would write
an item for one paper against the other, then would go to the other and write
something against the one he had written just before. It was a long time before
Mr. Schnebly or Mr. Chadd knew this."
The great fire of July 4, 1889, destroyed almost the entire property of the
"Localizer," including the files. Though Mr. Schnebly made every possible
effort to replace them from miscellaneous sources, he never got a perfect file.
Most of the issues, though not the first, are in possession of his daughter, ^Irs.
J. B. Davidson.
We have made extracts from some of the numbers which appear in the
chapter on Ellensburg.
.After the fire the name of the paper was changed to "Ellensburg Local-
izer."
In 1898, the management passed into the hands of F. D. Schnebly. In 1903
the paper became the property of A. S. and U. M. Randall, who were also the
publishers of the "Cascade Miner" at Roslyn. In 1905 Randall Brothers estab-
lished a daily, the "Evening Localizer."
On July 1, 1909, there was still another transfer and the "Localizer" was
acquired by the managers of the "Record-Press" and continued as the weekly
issue of that paper and the "Evening Record" till October 1, 1918.
We have given thus in bare outline the important history of the ''Localizer."
On account of inability to secure the first numbers from which to procure
extracts of editorial matter, we incorporate here Mr. Schnebly's valedictory and
some data relative to the life of Mr. Schnebly and his wife, herself one of the
choicest products of the pioneer age, together with a sketch of that unique pub-
lication, the "Oregon Spectator." Mr. and Mrs. Schnebly were so identified
with pioneer history in all its phases, as well as specifically with the newspaper
history, that these articles cast light upon the entire course of the upbuilding of
the Northwest.
.ST.VTEMENT.
"With this issue the 'Localizer' becomes the property of Mr. F. D.
Schnebly, who has purchased the plant and good will of the paper and will en-
deavor to conduct it along lines that will merit for it the support and good will
of all."
V.\LEDICTORY
"The 'Localizer' was first issued July 13, 1883, and from its beginning had
never missed an issue. Since 1845, when on leaving Marshall College, Penn-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 509
sylvania, I bought the Mercersburg, Pennsylvania, 'Journal,' I have been almost
continually in editorial work. After four years of successful work on the
'lounial,' I was affected by the first stages of the western fever, and selling
the paper moved to Peoria, Illinois, which was then considered quite far west.
Taking hold of the 'Peoria Transcript' and the 'Daily Champion' until 1850,
I went still further west to the then Oregon Territory. Here I became con-
nected with the 'Oregon Spectator,' which was the first paper in Oregon and the
only one then in the Northwest. Later on, selling and moving in 1861, to Walla
Walla, I was, until coming to Ellensburg, engaged more or less in journalistic
work.
"Looking back through the years that are past, I can but note the many
changes of the last half century. Forests have been leveled, cities grown up,
political parties risen and fallen, and wars changed the geography of the world.
All these events have been noted in their turn and now on account of failing
eyesight and declining years I take leave of the 'Localizer.' I have labored to
benefit Ellensburg and our county, and I hope have been successful. Having
attained four score years and two months, I now lay down my pen and leave
the work to younger hands.
"Bespeaking your continueil kind treatment and patronage for my suc-
<-essor, I bid you, my readers, an aft'ectionate farewell.
"D. J. SCHNEBLY."
DEATH OF D. J. SCHNEBLY
"David J. Schnebly, so well known throughout the valley as 'Grandfather
Schnebly', passed away peacefully on Saturday last (January 5, 1901). He
was the editor of this paper up to 1898, completing a term of fifty years in
active journalism.
"Mr. Schnebly was born in Hagerstown, Maryland, February 6, 1818.
Was a graduate of Marshall College, Mercersburg, Pennsylvania. After leav-
ing college, he bought the 'Mercersburg Journal,' which he edited for about
four years. He moved to Peoria, Illinois, where he was engaged in editorial
work on various papers of that city. In the Spring of 1850 he crossed the
plains to Oregon and located at Oregon City, where on August 12, 1850, he
took charge of the 'Spectator,' then owned by Maj. Robert Moore, purchasing
it the following year and publishing it until 1855. In 1850 Mr. Schnebly was
publishing the only newspaper in the state of Oregon. This pioneer paper had
liL'cn founded by the missionaries when Oregon was almost a wilderness, and
the red man formed the major part of her population.
"Mr. Schnebly was married at Linn City, Oregon, November 20, 1851, to
Margaretta A. Painter, daughter of the late Hon. Philip Painter, of St. Gene-
vieve, Missouri. The marriage ceremony was performed by the Rev. George
Atkinson, at the residence of Miss Painter's grandfather, Maj. Robert Moore.
!\lr. and Mrs. Schnebly moved to Walla Walla in 1861. During his residence
in that city he was connected at different times with the 'Union,' 'Statesman,'
and other papers.
"In 1871 he came to Kittitas \'allc_\- where he purchased the 'Localizer.'
In 1S98 he sold the \r<i\Kr to F. D. Schnebly. the jiresent editor. Notwithstanding
510 HISTORY OF YAKLMA WVLLEY
his age, which was fast approaching eighty-three, Air. Schnebly always took an
active interest in journalism and was a vigorous writer to the last.
"His wife and three children survive him, Philip Henry, Charles P., and
Jean C. Davidson, of Ellensburg. The late Mrs. Mary V. Adams, of San
Diego, California, was also a daughter. The deceased leaves twenty-two grand-
children to revere his memorv."
PIOXEEE JOURN.XLIS.M
" 'Ellensburg Localizer,'
February 6th, 1892.
"Today the editor and projjrietor of this paper begins his seventy-tifth
year. It is forty-seven years since he entered the field of journalism in Mer-
cersburg, Pennsylvania, and he has been in the business the major part of the
lime since. Having immigrated to Oregon in 1850 he took charge of the 'Ore-
gon Spectator,' the only paper in Oregon at that time, and indeed the only one
in the Northwest. The paper was established at Oregon City in 1845. by the
missionaries. Rev. Jason Lee being the prime mover in its establishment. It
was run for five years with different editors — Col. William T'Vault, Judge
.Aaron E. Wait, Gen. George L. Curn,- and Rev. W'ilson Blain. The latter
handed the editorial shears over to us. The plant became the property of Hon.
Robert Moore, who employed us to manage it for him one year. At the end
of the year we purchased it. In 1854 the plant was sold to Dr. William L.
Adams, who changed its name to that of 'The Argus.' The old press, a Wash-
ington, is still in Oregon. The 'Spectator' had a fine time clipping the news
from exchanges which came around the Horn and arrived here twice a year.
There was no editorial piracy charged against the editor of the 'Spectator.'
The papers came by sailing vessels. The 'New York Tribune' and 'Herald'
were among our exchanges. After we got through with them they were loaned
to anxious parties who wanted to get the news. It is now nearly nine years
that we have run the 'Localizer.' it having issued its first number July 12, 1883.
Ellensburgh was but a small village then with a store and post office. The
original store stood on Third Street nearly in front of Hanson & Company's
saloon, and in its first days was known as the Robbers' Roost, a name familiar
to all the old .settlers in Kittitas Valley."
SKKTCH OF "SPFXT.VTOR" from B.^NCR0FT'S HISTORY OF THE NORTHWE.ST
(Page 575, footnote 5.)
"There had been a small press in California since 1834. but no newspajjer
was published until after the American conquest, six months later than the
I)ublication of the Oregon newspaper. The 'Spectator' was a semi-monthly
journal of four pages, 15 by 11 inches in size, containing four columns each,
printed in clear type and a tasteful style, by John Fleming, a practical printer
and an immigrant of 1844. The paper was first edited by the president of the
Oregon Printing Association, W. G. T'Vault, after whom several other editors
were emjjloycd and removed in f|uick succession for holding opinions adverse
HISTORY OF YAKl.MA \ALLEY 511
to the controlling- power in the association. The general aim of the 'Spectator'
was. while advocating good morals, temperance and education, to pursue the
Hudson's Bay Company with unremitting, if often covert, hostility; and in this
respect it might be considered the organ of the American merchant class against
tfie British merchants. T'Vault was dismissed at the end of ten weeks for
being too lenient. H. A. G. Lee then issued nine numbers, and was dismissed
for publishing some articles reflecting with good reason on the course of the
American merchants toward the colonists: and several numbers appeared with-
out any ostensible editor, when in October, 1846, George L. Curry, an immi-
grant of that year, took the chair. He pursued the plan of allowing both sides
a fair hearing, and after successfully conducting the paper a longer time than
anv of his predecessors, was dismissed for publishing some resolutions of the
House of Representatives of 1849, reflecting on the Methodist candidate for
the important office of Oregon delegate to Congress. He was succeeded by
A. E. Wait, and subsequently by Wilson Blain.
"In 1850 the paper and press were sold to Robert Moore, who employed
Blain for a time to edit it, but displaced him by D. J. Schnebly, who soon be-
came proprietor, and associated with himself C. P. Culver as editor. In March,
1854. the paper was sold to C. L. Goodrich, and by him discontinued in March,
1855. It was published semi-monthly until September, 1850, when it changed
to a weekly ; and was printed on one of Hoe's Washington presses. Its first
printer, John Fleming, went from Ohio to Oregon in 1844, and continued to
reside in Oregon City till the time of his death, December 2, 1872, at the age of
seventy-eight years. He left a family in Ohio, to whom he never returned. He
was esteemed in his adopted home as an honorable and exemplary man. He
was .appointed postmaster in 1856. Associated with Fleming for a time was
T. F. McElroy, who after Fleming's retirement from business formed with
C. W. Smith a partnership as printers and publishers. These were succeeded in
the publishing department by T. D. Watson and G. D. R. Boyd, and they were
succeeded by Boyd alone. Having outlived colonial times and seen Oregon
City dwindle from the first town in Oregon to the rank of second or third, the
press and material of the 'Spectator' were sold in 1855 to publish a paper under
another name, and for political purposes. That paper became finally merged
in another at Salem, and the old 'Spectator' press was taken to Roseburg to
■■tart a paper at that place, and finally to Eugene City, where it remains.
"The type and material were carried to Portland to be used in the publi-
cation of the 'Daily Union,' for a short time, after which it was taken to As-
toria, where it was used to print the 'Marine Gazette,' in which Gray's History
of Oregon first appeared. On the termination of that journal, what was left of
the material of the 'Spectator' was taken back to Oregon City. The authorities
through which I have followed the course of Oregon's first press are 'Portland
Oregonian,' March 25, 1854; 'Olympia Columbian,' September 10, 1853;
'Olympia Pioneer and Democrat,' March 18, 1854 ; Parrish's Oregon Anecdotes,
MS., 5, 6; Lane's Nar., MS., 5, 6; Oregon Pioneer Association, Trans., 1875,
page 72; 'Portland Weekly Oregonian,' December 26, 1868; 'Olympia Tran-
script,' December 26, 1868; Evans' History of Oregon, MS., 333: Applegate's
Views of History, MS., 5; Brown's Willamette Valley, MS.. 34; Pickett's Paris
512 HISTORY OF YAKBIA VALLEY
Exposition, 10; 'Oregon City Weekly Enterprise,' December 19, 1868; 'Solano
(California) Herald,' January 9, 1869; 'Olympia (Washington) Standard,'
January 2, 1869; Niks' Reg.", Ixx. 340-1; S. F. Alta, March 15, 1855; 'Sac.
Union,' April 10, 1855; 'Portland West Shore,' November, 1878. The general
news chronicle in the 'Spectator' was usually at least six months old, and was
obtained from papers brought out by the annual immigrations, from the Sand-
wich Island papers brought over in chance sailing vessels, or through the cor-
respondence and mail of the fur company, which arrived once or twice a year
overland from Canada, or by the annual vessel from England. But the intelli-
gence conveyed was read as eagerly as if the events had but just transpired, and
by the extracts published, it is easy to gather what kind of news was considered
most important."
THE OREGON "SPECTATOR" AND ITS EDITORS
"The first copy of the first paper in the Northwest, the Oregon 'Specta-
tor,' was published at Oregon City, Oregon Territory, Thursday, February 5,
1846. Its motto : 'Westward the Star of Empire Takes Its Way.' The first
page of the paper is largely taken up with printing the Oirganic Laws of Oregon,
with amendments. This paper was established largely through the efforts of
Rev. Jason Lee and other missionaries, and the first copy contains an eulogy
on Reverend Lee, who jjassed away at his old home in the east in 1845, aged
forty-two years, while on a mission to solicit funds for the Oregon Institute, a
mission founded in behalf of the degraded and suffering Indians of Oregon.
The paper was owned by a joint stock company, and its first editor was \\'.
T'Vault. Its politics was non-partisan, and its news was brought around the
Horn twice a year, the 'New York Tribune' and 'Herald' being among the ex-
changes. Numerous changes were made in its editorial staff between 1846 and
1850. During that period we find, as its editors, the names of W. T'Vauh,
Judge Aaron E. Wait, Gen. George L. Curry and Rev. Wilson Blain. In 1850
Maj. Robert Moore, of Linn City, purchased the paper. We are indebted to
David J. Schnebly, an old editor from Peoria, Illinois, who became its editor
In 1850, and who preserved copies of the paper, for the information contained
in this article.
"The old press on which the 'Spectator' was printed, was a Washington
press and is still in Oregon. Mr. Schnebly became sole proprietor of the 'Spec-
tator' in 1851, and continued to edit and publish it until 1854, when the plant
was sold to Dr. William L. Adams, who changed its name to that of 'The Argus.' "
LATER NEWSPAPERS .\ND SPECIAL PUBLICATIONS OF YAKIMA AND ELLENSBURG
The above journals and journalists may be regarded as constituting the
charter membership of the permanent weekly and daily papers and managers
of the two principal cities of the valley. There have, however, been many
others, some that have filled special fields, some of early date which have been
discontinued, and others of later date yet in existence.
Of the first named, special publications, the earliest was "Freeman's
Farmer." Both by reason of this publication in itself and the personality of the
manager-editor, the "Farmer" is worthy of special record. It was a monthly
magazine and the manager was Legh Richmond Freeman. ]\Ir. Freeman was
HISTORY OF YAKIMA \-ALLEY 513
born at Culpepper Court House December 4, 1842. He was a man of marked
individuality and of thorough education. His wife, Mary Whitaker Freeman,
was equally accomplished and as associate editor of the "Farmer" played an
equally worthy part with her husband in conducting the magazine, and in
helping create a high literary standard in the field.
The "Farmer" had a cufious history. Its lineal ancestor, the "Northwest
Farm and Home," was founded at Fort Kearney, Nebraska, in 1847, by James
E. Johnson. Mr. Freeman acquired the publication while still only a boy, in
1859. He changed the name to "Freeman's Farmer." He then started west
with it. It was no doubt printed in more places than any other publication in
the United States. The names of twenty-five cities and towns, all the way from
Fort Kearney to Yakima, appear on the headings of the "Farmer."
Mr. Freeman followed the railroads westward, though he was several
times in Washington Territory before becoming permanently located. He was
a regular correspondent for eastern papers from the rapidly developing regions
of the west, and was well known upon the lecture platform for his description?
of the new lands.
The "Farmer" became located at the "Old Town," February 14, 1884, and
was moved to North Yakima in 1886. Both Mr. and Mrs. Freeman and their
magazine were strong factors in organizing the farming communities in methods
of profitable and intelligent cooperation and production.
Mr. Freeman took a leading part in the formation of agricultural societies,
the State Fair, and the beginnings of Federal irrigating. He was of anti-mo-
nopoly politics and in 1897 and 1910 was a candidate for senator on that plat-
form. In 1911, Mr. Freeman started a weekly, the "Free Press."
Upon his death, Mrs. Freeman took charge of the "Farmer" and continued
it till 1917. The last monthly issue was for March, 1917. The property was
then acquired by C. A. Smith, who now publishes it as a weekly under the name
of "Yakima Valley Farmer."
Doubtless the next journalistic enterprise in Yakima that would occur to
those familiar with the history of the place would be the "Weekly Epigram."
This paper well deserved its name, for its editorial pages usually had about as
pungent, sometimes stinging forms of expression as ink and type could well
accomplish. The "Epigram" came into existence September 25, 1893. The
publishers and proprietors were I. T. and Agnes C. Harsell.
In the first number we find the following announcement: "The 'Epigram'
shall be given free to all who are too poor or who do not care to pay the sub-
scription price. If you can't afiford it and want the paper come in and we will
give you a clear receipt for a year."
In 1898, J. D. Medill, now postmaster of Yakima, became owner and man-
ager. Mr. Medill was a native of Illinois, and came to the state of Washington
in the year of statehood, locating at Tacoma. In 1892 he removed to North
Yakima. In 1895 Mr. Medill undertook the venture of a daily paper, the
"Yakima Daily Times." This "Times" was, however, a little ahead of the
times, and the result was its discontinuance after two years of endeavor. Hav-
ing acquired the "Epigram" in 1897, Mr. Medill consolidated it with the
"Times" and for a year maintained Mr. Harsell in charge as manager. With
(33)
514 HISTORY OF YAKQrA \ALLEY
the issue of May 14, 1898, Mr. Medill became sole manager. With the opening
of the next year the name became the "Yakima Democrat." In 1904, it ab-
sorbed the "Yakima Washingtonian" and considerably increased its constituency
thereby. The "Democrat" was true to its name and being the only paper of
that political faith in the Yakima Valley it had a distinctive field. In 1911 Mr.
Medill disposed of his interests to F. C. Whitney and Son. The new proprie-
tors changed the name to the "Yakima Independent." Under the new manage-
ment, the paper became the special advocate of woman suffrage and prohibi-
tion. Its proprietor is at the present time the pastor of a Baptist church. Un-
like some managers he demonstrates the possibility of uniting secular enter-
prise with religious — and succeeding with both. Mr. Whitney and others who
labored in the carrying out of the two great reforms named above have cer-
tainly had the satisfaction of seeing a tremendous victory for the causes which
they advocated. Yakima County has been the foremost in advocating and vot-
ing for both woman suft'rage and prohibition. The former was thoroughly
established several years ago by constitutional amendment, and by the over-
whelming support of the "Bone-dry law" in the referendum in the election of
November 5, 1918, the last hope of "John Barleycorn" in the state is gone
along with the Kaiser and Sultan and other Troglodytes.
Besides the publications named, there have been two weeklies of special
fields and later dates. The earlier of these was the "Northwest Forum," a
paper of socialistic politics, founded in 1905 by S. H. Harrison, published on
Friday of each week. The other was the "Free Press," founded in 1911 by
Legh Freeman and published each Saturday.
Turning again from Yakima to Ellensburg we discover the next paper in
order of time after the "Standard" and the "Localizer" to be the "Ellensburg
Capital."
This paper, still one of the prominent journals of the Valley, was founded
October 11, 1887, by A. N. Hamilton. The name of the paper was a pointer
in the direction of the expectations of the proprietor and his fellow citizens as
to the future official status of the metropolis of the Kittitas. But alas, like
many of the hopes of "mice and men," which the Scottish bard assures us, and
with more truth than in some of his sayings, "gang aft agley,"' this hope was
dissipated and all the "capital" Ellensburgers have to fill the cavity with is the
name of a newspaper, a city block, and an addition. In June, 1889, A. H. Stul-
fauth, formerly a San Francisco journalist, landed in Ellensburgh. Becoming
convinced of the promising future of the city and the valley, he bought a half
interest in the "Capital." In 1899 he acquired the remaining interest and has
continued to conduct the paper as a first-class weekly, independent in politics,
and yet republican in policies and sympathies.
Next in time of the journals of Ellensburg came the "Ellensburg Register."
The fir.st issue came out on May 21, 1889. A. A. Batterson was publisher and
editor. We have found files of this paper in the city library which are of high
value in securing facts belonging to the period of the "Register's" existence.
On September 20, 1890, yet another journalistic venture was launched.
This was the "Washington Sentinel." Mr. Batterson was also the founder of
this paper. Within a short time, however, he admitted to partnership a man
HISTORY nv YAKIMA VALLEY 515
widely known for has intellectual ability and brilliant wit: Frank Reeves, later
a leader in public life in Wenatchee.
On October 10, 1890. the "Register" and "Sentinel" were consolidated
under the name, the 'Washington State Sentinel." While the paper was of
short duration it was in its time one of the best weeklies in the county, and its
files are of especial value in the preparation of such a work as this.
Following closely upon the "Register" came one of the notable products
of journalistic growth, the "Dawn." This publication was first a monthly, be-
ginning in November, 1893. On August 4, 1894, it appeared as a weekly. The
name first employed was the "Reformers' Dawn." Later it became the "Ellen.?-
burg Dawn." This publication, founded and conducted by Robert A. Turner,
now postmaster at Ellensburg, was one of the many voices which expressed the
rising movement of political reform of the period nearly coincident with the
hard times from 1890 to 1896. When people are hard up they begin to think
and to wonder if they are having a fair deal. It is one of the glories of our
land that citizens can think without resorting to Bolshevism.
The monthly was issued at Mr. Turner's home on East Capital Avenue
from Nbvember, 1893, to August, 1894, when the weekly edition was started.
Thenceforward for several months both editions were issued from Mr.
Turner's otSce in the Cadwell Block on Pearl Street. The monthly was a
double column publication of from eight to sixteen pages.
On January 17, 1914, Mr. Turner leased the "Dawn" to Arthur L. Slem-
mons and J. D. Mathews, and they conducted it along the same lines as it
formerly followed. Mr. Slenmons died in 1916. On March 11, 1914, Mr.
Turner became postmaster at Ellensburg, his commission being renewed in
1918.
The "Dawn" had a line of successors ; the "Kittitas County Democrat," the
"Inter-Mountain Register," the "Kittitas County Independent," and the "Twice-
a-Week-News."
The publication has now been suspended, though the printing plant is still
maintained.
The progress of our history now brings us to the "Evening Record," the
latest and in many respects the most important of all the newspapers of the
Kittitas Valley. This is the only dally in the history of the Kittitas Country,
except for the short period of the "Evening Localizer." It came into existence
as the "Record Press" in 1906. J. C. Kaynor and W. S. Zimmerman, then
equal partners, acquired the "Localizer" July 1, 1909. At that date Mr. Kaynor
became business manager of the "Record" and in February, 1912, he acquired
the interests of Mr. Zimmerman and became editor and manager.
At present date the "Record" is published by the Record Publishing Com-
pany, one of the best equipped publishing enterprises in central Washington.
J. C. Kaynor is editor and manager and H. G. Kaynor is secretary-treasurer.
TR.\N.SIENT PAPERS OF Y.AKIMA AND ELLENSBURG
Several early papers came into being, valuable from the standpoint of their
aims and field, and worthy of preservation for the historical record, but too
516 HISTORY ( )!• YAKIMA \ALLEY
ephemeral to play any considerable part in the affairs of their respective com-
munities. Of these we may name the "Yakima Sun" of 1885 which took for it^
main aim the maintenance of the town at Yakima City instead of moving to the
new site, and the "Yakima Argus" of the same period.
At Ellensburg was a little paper, in reality consisting of typewritten sheets,
known as the "Kittitas Wau-Wau." This had but two issues, and those were
in the Summer of 1879. The writers were H. M. Bryant and A. A. Bell. They
were conducting a pioneer store and got the little paper out mainly as an ad-
vertisement of their own business. It was distributed gratuitously.
Of somewhat more real journalistic pretensions was the "Gospel Preacher"
of Ellensburg, of considerably later date, being undertaken in 1893, by Rev.
W. W. Stone, pastor of the Christian Church. The aim of this little paper was
to further the work of the church. It is said to have been quite an accessory- of
the religious work, and to have been maintained for two years, when Mr. Stone
left the place.
P.VI'ERS OF THE OTHER TOWNS
We shall endeavor to encompass in this section a brief view of the various
newspapers of the other towns in the Valley all the way from Roslyn to Ken-
newick. These papers are all weeklies. Like those of the two chief cities of
the Valley these have undergone the changes and coalescences which seem to be
the common lot of newspapers in this world of vicissitudes.
We may properly begin at the extreme upper end of the valley, for here
we find the oldest and largest of all the towns next to Yakima and Ellensburg.
This is Roslyn. Here moreover, we find the oldest of all the papers, outside
of the two chief cities. The first paper, indeed, of the "Coal City" is no longer
in existence. That was the "Roslyn News," started in September, 1890. It
was short-lived. The first permanent paper was the "Cascade Miner."
John B. Armstrong, formerly of Ellensburg, was the founder of the
"Miner," which has continued to be the foremost journal of the coal center.
The paper was first known as the "Roslyn Aliner" and the first number ap-
peared in 1896, September 14th.
With the first number of 1899 Amasa S. Randall became owner and man-
ager of the "Miner." A few months later Mr. Randall admitted to partnership
his brother, U. M. Randall. They established a printing firm known as the
Cascade Printing and Publishing Company. At the same time they changed
the name of the paper to "Cascade Miner." Subsequently Randall Brothers
acquired the "Cle Elum Echo" and the "Ellensburg Localizer," blending those
papers with the "Miner." In 1909 they disposed of the "Localizer" to the pub-
lishers of the "Record Press," of which it became the weekly issue.
At present date the "Miner" is edited and managed by Harry B. Averill.
It is published by the Miner-Echo Publishing Company.
It is but a short step from Roslyn to its nearest of kin, Cle Elum. They are
partners in the fundamental business on which each depends, that is the coal
business. But though so near and so intimately related they are very difterent
in appearance.
The ap])carance of Cle Elum, indeed, has not been determined since the
HISTORY OF YAKIMA \' ALLEY 517
destructive fire of July, 1918. But the known energy of the people is an assur-
ance that the town will rise from her ashes to a larger life.
The paper at this city is the "Cle Elum Echo." The "Echo" is a most
creditable weekly paper. It was founded in 1902 by A. A. Batterson, founder
of the "Register" and "Sentinel" at Ellensburg. At present date the "Echo"
is under the same ownership and management as the "Miner" of Roslyn. Harry
B. Averill is editor and manager, and the Miner-Echo Publishing Company is
the Publisher. A great deal of credit is due the manager and publishers for the
targe service which they render the community in the maintenance of these
representative publications. They have done much to make known to the coun-
try the resources and conditions of the important portion of Kittitas County
where they are located. In politics they are republican.
It does not appear that there have been any papers published outside of
those named above, in Kittitas County, with the exception of the "Kittitas
Spokesman." This was established at Kittitas in 1912 by George B. Cleland.
It was independent in politics. Its publication has not been maintained.
THE PRE.SS IN THE SM.\LLER TOWNS OF VAKIMA COUNTY
Passing again through the long and tortuous Yakima canyon we emerge
into the Selah country, filled with all the evidences of prosperity. Here, though
the population is but small, we find a weekly paper. It is the "Yakima Valley
Optimist." We protest that the publisher has taken something too easy. Why
did he not take something that would require an effort? Anybody could be an
optimist in Selah. The paper was first known as the "Selah Optimist." Then
through living in that jewel of a place its optimism became so far-reaching as
to include the whole valley. The paper was founded in 1912 by Charles E.-
Kingston. In politics the "Optimist" follows the doctrines of the G. O. P.
Passing from Selah, at the vestibule of the middle Valley, to the numerous
towns of the great country below Union Gap, we find a generous supply of
well edited and well managed weekly papers. The oldest of these is the "Sun-
nyside Sun." This prominent paper of the largest town on the north side of
the river was founded by Yancy Freeman in 1901. At present date A. S. Hill-
yer is editor and manager. The character of the country around Sunnyside
and the habits of thought and taste of the people in both city and town are
such as to call for high-grade local papers. The "Sun," with its suggestive
name, well portrayed by its heading with Old Sol beaming joyfully across an
irrigated field, seems to measure up to the call. There has been one other
weekly paper at Sunnyside, the "Observer" founded in 1906 by Hal S. Smith.
It has not been continued to the present.
The "Sunnyside Times," of which A. M. Murfin is editor, was founded by
L. W. ]\liller and George W. Hopp, now of the "Camas Post."
There are two first-class papers at Toppenish, the largest town in the
county next to the metropolis. The older of these is the "Toppenish Review,"
founded by G. A. McArthur, now of the "Zillah Free Press." Both the "Review"
and the "Tribune" are owned by F. A. Williams, and conducted by George M.
Allen, who came in 1912. We find several recent editorials in the "Review"
518 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \'ALLEY
putting certain things so pointedly and fittingly that we are inserting them here.
Two of these, it will be noted, deal with local matters, while the others per-
tain to the world affairs which are now absorbing all men's attention every-
where. From the issue of November 15, 1918, we quote:
FUTURE IS BRIGHT
"Agricultural communities such as our own, were the last to benefit from
war prosperity and they should be the last to suffer from its disappearance.
We were not helped by artificially created industries and we will not be injured
by the shutting down of factories and the discharge of large numbers of wage
earners. ISTo enterprise in this whole valley can properly be described as a war
industry. Our products are needed in peace just as they were needed in war,
and the food conditions prevailing throughout the world, indicate beyond ques-
tion that the demand for years to come will exceed the supply. Powder and
shot and shell have been dethroned with the Kaiser, but wheat and potatoes
and sugar and all other food products emerge from the war with added millions
of willing subjects ready and anxious to give them allegiance.
"There should be no fear of the future for the Yakima Valley. Prices
doubtless will be modified with the passing of time and the return of normal
conditions. But there should be steady and satisfactory profits from every
phase of agricultural industry for an indefinite number of years to come.
"Generally speaking, business in the valley was never better. Conditions
growing out of the early boom times have been liquidated and the valley is in
a firm financial condition. Nearly everyone has money invested in government
securities, and the future, in every respect, is bright with promise.
"This part of the country has carried its full share of the war burden
and has given generously of its men and of its money. It has performed its
duty to the country and by humanity and has every right and reason to look
forward to a splendid era of happiness and prosperity."
NEW DEVELOPMENT
"Interest in the war has served to turn attention from the importance of
the development work now in progress on the reservation. A large era of new
land, probably not less than 20,000 acres, is now being brought under ditch, and
most of it will be ready for crops next spring. The funds for this work were
appropriated by the Government as a direct result of the effort made by the
commercial organizations and citizens of the reservation. No other project in
the country has received like recognition by the Government during the war
period, a fact which speaks in no uncertain way of the high regard in which
this district is held at Washington. The new land is coming under ditch pri-
marily as a war measure, for the purpose of increasing the national food sup-
pl\'. It will be needed, however, in peace equally as in war."
RUNNING TRUE TO FORM
"Germany runs true to form even in the midst of adversity. The ink
scarcely was drj- on the armistice papers when a plea for food was addressed
HIGH SCHOOL, TOPPEXISH
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 519
to the United States by the Germany secretary of state. There was nothing
in the plea in behalf of Turkey, Bulgaria or Austria-Hungary, all of them
dupes and victims of German perfidy. Germany has no further need or use
for her former tools. The war is over and they all are hungrj'. But Germany
would eat at the first table and allow her companions in crime and misery to
shift for themselves. The allies will doubtless see to it that the Germans do
not starve, but it must be remembered that all of Europe and much of Asia,
are just as hungry as Germany and Germany is primarily responsible for that
condition.
"When the needs of England, France, Belgium, Italy, Serbia, Roumania,
Russia and all the rest of the world that is in want are fully met, let Germany
have any surplus that may be left. If there is not food enough in the world
to supply everyone, let those who created the starvation conditions take the con-
sequences of their own crimes. Generosity should not come ahead of justice."
The other paper at Toppenish is the "Toppenish Tribune." This paper
was established in 1910, by T. J. Marony and Mrs. W. G. Fulton. At the pres-
ent time Clara L. Hutchinson is business manager. We find in the "Tribune"
of November 12, 1918, so readable a report of the event celebrated all over
America and a large part of the world, the Victory Celebration, that we are
incorporating it here as a sample of its numberless counterparts throughout the
land :
"Toppenish gave full vent to a long repressed desire to stand up and yell
on Monday morning, when the news flashed over the wire than the Germans
had surrendered and the war had come to an end. Previous peace reports,
which set other communities by the ears were discounted locally. The fake
report sent out by the United Press was received in full by the "Tribune" last
Friday, but a careful analysis of the text indicated its fishy character and no
attention was paid to it.
"Monday morning's news, however, was of a sufficient character. The
first bulletins were given full credit and when the confirmation came officially
the town turned loose, and from 4 A. M. throughout the day the celebration of
the downfall of the Kaiser and the return of peace continued.
"By 5 o'clock in the morning the streets were filled with an enthusiastic
crowd brought to the center of the city by the ringing of bells and the sounding
of the fire siren. An impromptu parade was formed, and autos with horns
blowing and every possible noise making apparatus in operation, drove up and
down the principal streets.
"The 'Tribune' appeared on the streets with an extra at 9 o'clock and the
hundreds of copies printed were eagerly snatched up and there was much dis-
appointment when the edition had been exhausted.
PEACE CELEBRATION
"Citizens got together early in the morning and arranged for an impromptu
peace celebration at the depot park to take place at noon. An auto parade pre-
ceded the program of singing and speaking which brought out almost the en-
tire population.
"The address of the day on 'Peace and Its Meaning.' was delivered by
520 HISTORY OF YAKIMA ^^\LLEY
Rev. C. E. Miller, pastor of the Methodist Church. Mr. Aliller spoke eloquently
of the deep significance of the gathering, which he pictured as typifying an out-
burst of joy world-wide in its scope. He gave due praise to the men who had
carried the war to a successful conclusion, and reminded his hearers that the
end of the war brings great and added responsibilities which must be faced by
every citizen.
"In concluding his address the minister called the roll of the four Toppen-
ish boys who have answered the last call in the performance of their duty, the
list including Malcolm Crabtree, Walter Wade, John Tomlinson and Frank
Boyle. The audience uncovered and stood with bowed heads as the names
were called.
MUSICAL PROGRAM
"A musical program, hastily arranged but of unusual excellence, was a
feature of the occasion. Mrs. Wright sang the 'Star Spangled Banner' most
effectively, and Mrs. W^oodard, musical instructor in the public schools, ren-
dered a patriotic number, 'Emblem of Liberty,' in a manner that made an in-
stant appeal. Mrs. Woodard also sang 'Keep the Home Fires Burning,' with
the audience joining enthusiastically in the chorus. Mr. .Anderson sang a pa-
triotic number in his usual splendid voice.
"Rev. Curtis gave the invocation at the opening of the exercises, which con-
cluded with the benediction pronounced by Father Fisser.
BONFIRE AT NIGHT
"Mayor Ruft'ner issued a proclamation during the morning calling on the
people to observe the day as a holiday, and thereafter the stores and other busi-
ness places were closed. In the evening a big crowd assembled at the open
square opposite the Hotel Washington and enjoyed a big victory bonfire ar-
ranged by Sam Kiefer with a committee of assistants. The crowd lingered
about the streets until a late hour, apparently reluctant to see the day that had
witnessed the windup of the war come to an end."
Turning from Toppenish to its next sister on the east we find a paper at
Mabton which has reached the age of fourteen. This is the "Mabton
Chronicle," also republican in politics. This excellent weekly was the oft'-
spring of Bernard C. Pacius in 1904. At the present time W. F. Fowler is
editor.
As an example of what is taking place all over country, we are preserving
a record from the "Chronicle" of November 8, 1918, of the Mabton boys in the
service of their country and the part of the town in war work contributions.
Only $1,500 for Soldier ^Morale
TII.\T IS ALL mabton IS ASKED TO CONTRIBUTE TO THE WAR WORKERS IN THIS
drive
"The drive for financing the United War Work Campaign will begin next
Monday. Charles D. Donnelly is manager of the local work and Mrs. Nathan
Sohn will have charge of the part the women will take in the drive. A meet-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA \-ALLEY
521
ing was held Thursday to complete arrangements and organize teams for
soliciting.
"Mabton's alloted share is $1,500, and it is planned to raise that amount
or more the first day- The purpose of the campaign is to raise the sum of
$170,500,000 for the combined use of the American Library Association, the
Jewish Welfare Board of the United States Army and Navy, the National
Catholic War Council, the Knights of Columbus, the Salvation Army, the
War Camp Community Service, the Young Men's Christian Association, and
the Young Women's Christian Association.
"Xow that the war is apparently nearly over, the necessity for the
activities of these various organizations has increased. It is thought that it
will take two years before the vast armies are demobilized, and during that
time the boys will need more than ever the ministrations of these patriotic
societies.
"The people have been investing their dollars in bonds that bear a small
rate of interest. Now they are asked to give a few dollars without the expec-
tation of momentary gain, but which will bear a big return in good accomp-
lished. Nothing is too good for our boys. Give the glad hand to the solicitors
and show them that we can give as well as invest."
MORE STARS FOR MABTON's FLAG
"The list of soldiers from Alabton has grown to 102 names, as the re-
sponse to the call for additions and corrections was prompt. It is desired that
the names be only of boys whose home is in Mabton, who enlisted from Mab-
ton, or whose parents reside in Mabton. A soldier in Camp Lewis sent the
editor several names, some of which, however, could not be used as they did
not come in any of the above classes. If you can correct or add to the present
list, please do so.
John Scott
Robert Scott
Lester KauiTman
Raymond Series
Henry Piendl
Bruce Beckett
Cecil Winnie
Clayton Winnie
Harry Smyth
Harry Kimble
Gerald Hall
A. J. Bush
Edward B. Brewer
James Cleman
Colin .\. Fowler
George W. Fowler
William B. Fowler
James G. Fowler
Earl Young
William Cash
Carl Herold
Rollie Berry
Earl Dwinnell
Edw^ard Bartlett
Edward Sellers
Harry Wells
Wesley Clark
Austin Warner
Arthur Perusse
Albert l"'erusse
Eric Lundy
Edward Denend
Ralph Thomas
Walter Berg
Oscar Halverson
Joe St. Hillaire
Clifford W. Allen
Ward Burfield
Robert Browning
J. Harvey Green
W. L. Gray
Earl McGinnis
Edwin P. Snyder
Herman K. Flower
Camillus F. Flower
Gordan Meldrum
Claude Brallier
Virgil Wommack
Verne Cooke
Albert Roy Hagle
Bert V. Hagle
Lestock Des Brisay
Earl Finley
Hobson Finley
Stanley Ross
Adam Livingston
Ceroid Manning
522
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Arthur Dustin
Willis Nelson
Ona Zyph
H. W. Hare
Hugh Grey
Ona Smith
Charles F. Story
Clyde Rogers
Frank Davis
Elmer Davis
Alger Dilley
Earl Bradford
Allison C. Presson
John Zyph
Harold Aiken
Melvin Langdale
(ieorge Des Brisay
Rufus Des Brisay
D. M. Buffington
Raymond Kays
Howard Crow
Harry Hedemark
Elza R. Dunnington
Clarence Tweetin
Marvin Tweetin
Ernest Wright
Victor D. Wright
Roy Allison
Clinton Winnie
Roy M. Wandling
Ervin N. Erickson
C. H. Bunch
Dale C. Smith
Earl Bradford
Ralph Orlando
Robert Doane
Albert Doane
Wheeler Pratt
Ivan Pratt
Oscar Barron
William Barron
Henry Barron
Ted Sparks
Paul Otey
Floyd Leach."
Over the Top the First Day.
RED CROSS NOTES
"Twenty convalescent robes have been sent to the Mabton Red Cross to be
finished by November 15th. The work rooms in the city hall are open daily,
where the ladies, properly masked, are endeavoring to complete the quota in the
given time.
"The Yakima Red Cross has received an allotment of 1,600 pajama suits to
be made from a pattern cut by the surgeon general, for relief of the American
wounded soldiers at home and abroad. The Mabton chapter will aid in filling
this order."
"Mabton has sad hearts and gold stars for its service flag. Virgil Wom-
mack, son of Mr. and Mrs. O. Wommack and a grandson of C. Muller, Sr., has
been reported killed in action. He was a mere boy when he enlisted early in the
war. Ray Kays, son of Mr. and Mrs. Frank Kays, died suddenly of pneumonia
last week in a training camp. Henry Barron has made the supreme sacrifice,
and fears are entertained that Henry Piendl has been killed or is seriously
wounded. More will be printed of these boys later."
The next sister of Toppenish is Wapato toward the north. Here we find the
"Wapato Independent," founded in 1906 by William Verran. In 1909 William
Verran became editor, and is acting as manager at the present date. The "Inde-
pendent" is republican in its political proclivities. It is worthy of special com-
mendation for its ambition and energy in publishing matter descriptive of the
section in which it is located. The "Development Number," of December 15,
1911, is worthy of a metropolitan journal. We have made much use of this
number in our chapter on the Reservation. As giving a view of the aims and
the spirit of the publication we are incorporating here the editorial announce-
ment of the special number.
HISTORY OF YAKI.MA VALLEY 523
OUR SPECIAL
"This issue of the 'Wapato Independent' is one intended to exploit Wapato
and the Reservation. We have been to much time and expense to make the
issue one that will be of value to all seeking information pertaining to this lo-
cality, and have been successful in obtaining all matter printed from an absolutely
authentic source. In this respect we are under deep obligation to S. A. M.
Young, Indian agent at Fort Simcoe, J. W. Martin, resident engineer of the
Indian Bureau, Alex E. McCredy, O. S. Gossard, C. W. Higgins, and the many
others who have contributed to make the issue of December 15th what we be-
lieve to be one of the best exploitation numbers ever issued in the Yakima
Valley.
"To these gentlemen for their many courtesies we are thankful.
"It was made possible through them to give our readers information per-
taining to the reservation and its industries practically impossible to secure from
any other source. We trust our readers will appreciate this fact as well as us,
for it is seldom that so much valuable information is contained beneath one
cover and which can be referred to at any time in the future.
"The issuing of this special number of the 'Independent' has not been under-
taken as a money-making proposition. It has cost all and possibly more than
can possibly be received to get the paper out, but we believe this immense area
of irrigable land embraced in the Yakima Indian Reservation well worth exploit-
ing at whatever cost. To undertake such an edition in a town the size of
Wapato required some courage, but the local merchants, always loyal, have come
forward generously in support of the exploitation number and it will be seen that
nearly all of the advertising matter is confined to the town from which the paper
issues. For this spirit we are also indebted.
"We wish to urge upon our readers the many good points in this issue.
The authentic information it contains may be just what your friends in other
states would wish to read. If you do not care to forward the regular copy of
the paper you receive to your friends, come to the office and purchase as many
as you like. We will have a liberal supply, but it is wise to come early as the
demand will be great. Remember that from no other source would you be
able to .secure as much information pertaining to the reservation and the
authenticity of such information can not be question.
"Again thanking those who have assisted us in making this edition all that
we aimed to have it, we hope that all our readers will appreciate our efforts."
From the towns on the Reservation we retrace our steps and cross to the
north side of the Yakima River. Here we find three more towns in addition
to the metropolis, Sunnyside — each the location of a newspaper, Zillah, Granger
and Grandview.
The representative of the press at the first-named is the "Zillah Free
Press." This was founded in 1910 by A. S. Hillyer, now editor of the "Sunny-
side Sun." The "Free Press is republican in politics. G. A. McArthur be-
came editor and proprietor in April, 1918.
At Granger we find another typical weekly, the "Granger Enterprise."
George P. Eaton was the founder of this newspaper and the year of its birth
524 HISTORY Ul- YAKIMA VALLEY
was 1912. It has been active in promoting the interests of the splendid region
of its location. The "Enterprise" is an independent in politics.
Passing by Sunnyside, the journals of which we have already noted, and
reaching that most attractive little city of Grandview, we find a bright, active,
well-conducted weekly paper, the "Grandview Herald." This exponent of the.
public life of its section came upon the stage of action in 1909, C. D. Foster
being owner and manager. Mr. Foster still retains the ownership, while the
publisher is Fred R. Hawn. The "Herald" belongs to the independent in
politics. As preserving an interesting glimpse at local conditions and spirit,
which can hardly fail to be of interest to future readers, we are including here
a few extracts from the pages of the "Herald" of September 6, 1918:
Pl.ws Complete for Registering
.ASSISTANTS .\ND PL.ACES OF REGISTR.\TION N.AMED BY REG1STR.\R HOWELE
"Following are the registrars appointed by Chief Registrar T. W. Howell
for his district, which comprises 12 precincts, together with the place of regis-
tration :
Alfalfa — A. J- Harris, Alfalfa schoolhouse. Glade — E. L. Mace, Mace
schoolhouse. Wheatland — W. H. Masty, Smith schoolhouse. Byron — E. E.
McMillan, McMillan store. Mabton Rural — C. B. Cox, Mabton high school.
Mabton— J. W. Crow, City Hall. Wendell Phillips— H. E. Hager, W'endell
Phillips schoolhouse. Belma — N. J. Miller, Belma schoolhouse. Wanita — J- H.
Fry, Wanita schoolhouse. South Grandview — Farwell Morris, Euclid school -
house. Grandview — Emery Morse, D. O. Robertson's office. North Grand-
view — R. R. Wardall, A. E. Lowe's residence. Thursday, September 12. from
7 a .m. to 9 p. m., is the day. Register."
P.\TRi()Ts Will Register. Others Must
LIVELY DEB.\TE DEVELOPS AT BUSINESS MEN S MEETING
"There were things doing at the meeting of the Business Men's .Yssociation
Tuesday evening at the Central Hotel.
I "The largest crowd the members had seen in montlis sat down to the table
and took an active part in the discussion which began with the matter of pro-
viding a sprinkling wagon for the town and ended two hours later with a few
brief remarks from newcomers to the community and a motion to adjourn.
"It was explained by Frank Ames, local manager for the Standard Oil
Company, that his company had a number of tank wagons, replaced by auto-
mobile equipment which could be purchased reasonably and equipped without
much expense. It was voted to refer action on the matter to the town council.
"Messrs. Parchen and Morris reported that they had brought the matter
of the enlargement and betterment of the road east from the Murray corner
to the Grandview pumping plant lands to the attention of the county commis-
sioners, who made no promises for immediate action. The consensus of opinion
was to the effect that if this road could be improved the matter of keeping in
touch with this district would take care of itself.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 525
"E. T- Haasze reported that an average of ten campers every day had made
use of the public camping ground and also submitted a proposition, which was
unanimously carried, to have photographs made of the camp grounds for dis-
tribution, through the kindness of A. F. Wehe, state executive committeeman
of the Yellowstone Trail, and Samuel Hill, president of the Evergreen Highway
Association, to all parts of the country. The register placed on the camp
grounds by Mr. Haasze showed names ranging from West Salem, Ohio, to
Spanaway Lake, near Tacoma, Washington.
"A. J. Thiele, the new cashier of the Grandview State Bank, recently from
Spokane and Russell Parker, associated with E. J. Haasze and Thomas R.
Robinson in the fruit business, formerly of Seattle, who were present at the
meeting were called on by President Haskins as was E. R. McDonald who had
not met with the association for several months.
"It was the opinion of every man present that the association had made an
excellent start for its Fall and Winter work."
THE PRESS IX BENTON COUNTY
As the youngest and smallest in population of the counties of the Valley,
it can not be expected that Benton County will offer to view as many papers
as her associate counties. It is, however, true that the ratio of papers and
readers to population is equal to that of either of the others. Unlike the two
older counties, Benton County has two towns of approximately the same size
and essentially the same conditions and productions, Prosser and Kennewick.
Prosser is the older, is the county seat, and has a longer background of
history. This general fact applies to the journalistic history also.
PROSSER PAPERS
The first paper in Prosser was the '"Prosser American," published by
Messrs. James and Freeman.
The newspapers of the present day in Prosser are the "Independent-
Record" and the "Republican-Bulletin."
The earlier of the two traces its ancestry to the "Prosser Record," whose
first number bore date of December 29, 1893. Unfortunately the files of this
oldest existing paper, in what is now Benton County, are no longer available.
The other parent was the "Benton Independent," established on November 6,
1909. The consolidation was effected May 1, 1913.
The "Record" was owned and managed by George Boomer, his wife Alice
being associated with him in management. Mr. Boomer was a man of high
mental and moral character and had the respect of all with whom he associated.
The same may be said of Mrs. Boomer, a gifted and attractive woman. Their
political views, however, were not acceptable to the majority of their fellow
townsmen, for they were pronounced socialists.
The last number of the "Record" under the management of Mr. Boomer
was of May 14, 1909. As illustrative both of the personality of this pioneer
newspaper man of Prosser and of the conditions in the comnuniity, we insert
here the "Vale" of the retiring editor.
"From the Prosser Record,
"May 14, 1909.
526 HISTORY- ( )1-- YAKIMA N' ALLEY
"vale
"It is with sincere regret that we this week announce that 'The Record"
after this date passes into other hands. For almost six years to a day we have
labored hard to make "The Record' the best family newspaper in the lower
Yakima Valley and our efforts have been crowned with unusual success. Com-
ing here when Prosser was just beginning to change its baby habiliments for
the garments of strong youth, we have watched and attempted to encourage
the growth of Prosser and the whole lower Valley with all that interest that
attaches to those things in which one moves and among which one lives. During
our labors here this little village has grown into a city of the third class and
the stretches of desert at our doors have blossomed into gardens and orchards.
"Perhaps our guidance of 'The Record,' the oldest paper in this immediate
part of the state, has had but little to do with the growth and development of
this section, but we will at least add to our remembrance of our editorship by
assuming that some of the things we have done have tended to the upbuilding
of our neighborhood, not alone in numbers, but in civic pride, neighborly
honesty and a stronger faith in the right of the people to do as they think best tor
themselves, without having to first seek permission from professional politicians
or private plunderbunds.
"Assuming charge of a democratic paper, as we did, and immediately mak-
ing its editorial columns a vehicle for socialist thought, we can not fittingly
express our kindly feelings for the many who, through these years, though not
agreeing with us always politically, have stood loyally by us. We have tried
to give our readers a paper upon which they could depend, both in news and
opinions. We have made mistakes, perhaps, but they were honest mistakes.
As far as our intentions and endeavors are concerned we have nothing to regret.
"During the past six years 'The Record' was the first paper in the valley
to print eight pages at home. It was the first to install power and the first to
abandon the costly hand composition in favor of machine work.
"All this was necessary to keep pace with the rapid growth of the country.
Today 'The Record' is read every week by over 4,000 people and while we are
satisfied in some measure by that accomplishment we wish we could have done
twice as much.
"Regardless as to whether or not we have made a financial success during
these years, we at least hope that among the thousands that read 'The Record'
some at least have had their thoughts turned to the necessity of a change of our
present political and economic uncertainties to conditions of security for them-
selves and their children. If, as a result of our humble efforts, there are a
few men and women who can see more clearly the necessity of greater security
in the right to live that socialism only can guarantee, we are content, whether
we have made money or not.
"We wish to thank the merchants and others who have so liberally patron-
ized us in the past. We have endeavored to give exceedingly good service
for all values received. Mr. Haines, who is to succeed us, signifies his inten-
tion of conducting an independent paper. If he maintains that position ener-
getically and impartially we trust that our friends will confer on him the same
courtesies and kindnesses they have vouchsafed to us.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 527
"As to our immediate future it is more or less uncertain. The demands
upon Mr. Boomer's time for lectures will probably continue and he will devote
most of his efi'orts to that for a few months at least. Prosser will still be our
home and if a theater is built we will probably interest ourselves in that. So
many words of friendship and good wishes have been extended to us during
the past week that though we will enjoy the rest cessation from continuous edi-
torial duties will bring, we nevertheless will keenly feel the breaking of neigh-
borly ties in case we should find it necessary to make our home elsewhere.
"May the growth of Prosser as a city of homes be endless, and may the
seeds of social and economic truths we have tried to sow result in at least a few
sturdy plants of healthy growth.
"Many of our subscribers we never have met, but their names on the sub-
scription book have become almost personalities themselves. We realize that
our political opinions have at times shocked many of them. Realizing that, we
appreciate the fact that they are still our subscribers.
"We again thank the very, very many whose friendship has enabled us to
accomplish what little we have.
"George E. Boomer,
"Alice Boomer."
The "Record" was acquired and managed by Alfred Haynes for four years.
We insert his salutatory as well fitting in with the farewell of the preceding man-
ager.
"From 'The Prosser Record,'
"May 14, 1909.
"With this issue 'The Record' goes to its readers under new proprietorship.
It is not our intention just here to say what changes may be contemplated, other
than that 'The Record' from this issue on will be known to its readers as an
independent paper, broad enough in its principles to uphold the right and re-
prove the wrong in whatever political party or set such principles may become
involved.
"Believing in the great future ahead of the city of Prosser and vicinity, it is
our desire to give precedence to all matters of local interest and county happen-
ings in such a manner as to make 'The Record' a necessity in every home in the
city and county. But we do not expect to attain this end by our own indi-
vidual efforts, and for this purpose the cooperation of those who already are
subscribers and those who may become such, is earnestly solicited.
"In our business relations with the patrons of 'The Record,' efficiency,
promptness and honorable dealings to all is assured, and all that we hope for is
a fair share of your patronage.
"To our subscribers we would say that as soon as possible we expect to
revise our mailing list, so please take note of your wrapper and if you see that
you are in arrears, it will be greatly appreciated if you will attend to the same
at once, and this will be the first step towards lightening the editor's burden
and making the paper a success. There is a very strict postal law that forbids
us sending papers to subscribers who are more than one year in arrears.
"G. Alfred Haynes,
"Editor and Proprietor."
528 HISTORY OF VAKI^FA \'ALLEY
The "Independent" came into existence in 1909, and C. B. Michener was
the editor-manager for several years. On May 1, 1913, the "Record" and "Inde-
pendent" were joined under the management of C. B. Michener and C. E. Rusk
Both men were possessed of high abilities and advanced political and economic
ideals and aims. Under them the "Independent-Record" became one of the
conspicuous weeklies of the Valley. Air. Rusk is now receiver of the L'nited
States Land Office at Yakima.
In April, 1915, W. R. Sproull, who had been connected for some years
with the "Republican-Bulletin," acquired the "Independent-Record" and is con-
ducting it at this date with marked ability and success. As one of the strong
newspaper forces in the Valley, Mr. Sproull is well fitted to give a view of the
influences of the papers in this part of the Valley.
Tracing the lineage of the "Republican-Bulletin," we find that the older
parent, the "Bulletin," came into existence at the hands of H. G. Guild on June
26, 1902. It was first christened the "Prosser Falls Bulletin."
Some extracts from the first issue will convey to the reader the "feel" of
that time in the history of Prosser.
"From the 'Prosser Bulletin,'
"June 26, 1902.
"S.\LUT.\T0RV
"The Prosser Falls 'Bulletin' makes its bow to the public. We have added
the name 'falls' to suggest to readers remote from Prosser that we have water
power here that will figure largely in the prosperity of the future Prosser. We
have no rash promises to make. Promises are easily broken at best. We are
here among you to stay and grow up with the town. We shall at all times be
found w-orking cheerfully and assiduously for the upbuilding of legitimate
Prosser. Politically, the 'Bulletin' is of the 'Teddy' Roosevelt stripe, and will
be found in line with the republican party. The 'Bulletin' has been kindly re-
ceived by the good people of Prosser, and it will try to merit their patronage
and good will by truthfully conserving the best interests of the town and sur-
rounding country. We believe that Prosser will have 5,000 people in less than
five years. The 'Bulletin' hopes it may. Let us all set up the '5,000 in five
years' mark, and work for it. The 'Bulletin' comes here as the organ of no
faction or clique, and will try to represent all interests fairly. W^e have made
no bombastic assertions as to what the 'Bulletin' would be. We present it as
it is, with no apologies. We do hope, however, to improve it as business shall
warrant. As a final statement, we wish to say that the 'Bulletin' is wholly
owned and controlled by the undersigned.
"H. G. Guild."
"Commercial men. as a class, are the keenest and altogether the most com-
petent people to 'size up' a town we know. It has been our privilege to inter-
view many of this class the past few weeks, and we state a truth when we say
that without a single exception they all unite in predicting a grand future for
Prosser.
"One is im]jresse(l by the general appearance of the people that this is cer-
tainly a healthful countrv. Nowhere on this northwest coast can one find a
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 529
more robust appearing lot of persons. Health is a great blessing, and those
who come to this section for pure air will find it well oxygenized."
"SALUT.\TORV NO. 2.
"Prosser has a new $6,000 schoolhouse and the old one is being used for
primary grades. The new building has all modern appliances. Aside from the
large school rooms, it contains a library and teachers' room. This school has a
four years' course, and a pupil graduating from it should be competent to enter
any college. Prosser is proud of its public school. Washington, in fact, has
the best school system of any state west of the Missouri River."
"While the winds are a trifle disagreeable at times, and it gets pretty warm
during the day, the nights are invariably cool and the people are healthy and
rugged. As soon as the sun sets in the Summer time, the atmosphere cools
very rapidly and the evenings are very pleasant. These are the only real
climatic disadvantages and this section comes as near being all right as any
of them.
"The Falls at Prosser have a total fall of 23 feet in a distance of 300 yards,
ample power to run the largest factories. It is hinted that the proposed electric
railroad from North Yakima to Prosser, via Sunnyside, will get its power at
Prosser. Prosser is 'willing." But she won't stop growing for anybody."
"HOW HORSE HE.WEN H.\PPENED
"James Kinney of this city, who enjoys the distinction of being one of the
pioneers of the Yakima Valley, says that he named Horse Heaven in 1881.
Formerly it was called the Bedrock Springs country. Mr. Kinney was going
down the valley on the occasion of the naming of the country aforementioned,
and having camped one night below Prosser, awoke the next morning to find
that his animals had strayed and the tracks led up the mountainside and over
into an upland plain beautiful to behold, and there he found the runaway horses
cropping the succulent bunchgrass with apparent great relish. 'Surely, this is
Horse Heaven,' quoth Mr. Kinney to himself. The name sounded appropriate,
and in spite of some efTorts to call it 'Columbia Plains,' Mr. Kinney's name
stuck, and thus it is known, and that is how the name of Horse Heaven hap-
pened."
"iXDI./^N, CAVUSE AXD COYOTE
"An Indian, who lives near Prosser, came to town the other day with a
young coyote ingeniously tied up in an old gunny sack, behind his saddle. The
Indian was old, but smiling, and apparently satisfied with life as he found it.
He was mounted on a sleepy, lazy looking cayuse, and the three, the Indian, the
cayuse and the coyote, would have been a proper subject for a prize photograph.
Then, come to think of it, what a fitting combination. The Indian represent-
ing, as he did, the primitive type of civilization of this age, in this country; the
cayuse representing the same type in its species ; the coyote representing the
untamed vagabond of the hills, the outlaw, the Ishmaelite of its species.
"The Indian was unconscious of the fitness of the blend. In making the
combination there was no intention, nothing further than was urged by th-»
(34)
530 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
law of necessity, the object uppermost in his mind being to get a dollar for the
coyote, having conceived the thought that some white man would like the tick-
ridden howler from the hills as a pet for his children. With the writer there
would be no satisfaction in watching the constant pacing to and fro of a captive
coyote. They were designed by nature to be free, and any one who has read
Seton Thompson's stories of wild animals could not well perform the duty of
jailer to a captive coyote.
"Some one of the group who was watching the picture of Indian, cayuse
and coyote, said: 'Poor coyote.' 'Hallo, poor coyote,' replied the Indian.
'Him heap killum sheep.' The Indian in his contempt for compassion for the
coyote, gave the white man's reason for passing the sentence of outlawry upon
the whole coyote tribe."
IRRIG.XTED L.\NDS NEAR PROSSER
"The Sunnyside Irrigation Canal, one of the largest and most successful
of its kind on the coast, is building down the valley and is expected to be
opposite Prosser by next Fall. It will open to cultivation about 20,000 acres
of choice grass and fruit lands. The Prosser Falls Irrigation Company has
five miles of ditch on the south side of the Yakima River above Prosser, and
five miles of ditch below the town. Along its course are some of the finest
irrigated farms, orchards and meadows in eastern Washington, and these lands
are very valuable."
THE NORTHERN PACIFIC COMPANY
"Prosser is a railway town on the line of the Northern Pacific, and an
average of twenty trains pass through it daily. The Northern Pacific Com-
pany has a neat depot, an express office, freight warehouse, and employs a day
and night agent and operator, and an additional freight agent during the day
time. The company's employes are competent and obliging men and it is a
matter of common remark that the conductors and brakemen on the road are
not only ordinarily courteous, but are painstaking in their efiforts to inform the
traveling public and provide for their comfort. The Northern Pacific is one
of the greatest systems extant, and much of Prosser's prosperity as a town,
and the improvement and value of the adjacent farm country about it, is due
to the enterprise of this splendid system in intelligently distributing immigra-
tion along its line in Washington. Its low rate to homeseekers from St. Paul
westward has filled up many a heretofore sparsely settled section in Washington.
"The 'Bulletin' takes no stock in the howl against railroads that are doing
as much for the country as the Northern Pacific. Let the Northern Pacific,
with its splendid equipment, be removed ten miles from Prosser, and what would
the town be, or ever amount to, thus isolated? The management of the Northern
Pacific take a live interest in the prosperity of towns along its line, and its
policy is to aid in building up such stations. One of the company's officials
who always has a good word for Prosser, is "Sir. A. D. Charlton, general
passenger agent, at Portland."
PROSSER
"Is a thriving town of about 500 inhabitants and has a fine natural loca-
tion. It is 50 miles from the county seat at North Yakima, and is 40 miles west
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 531
from Kennewick, the most eastern town in the country. It is the natural busi-
ness center for a large area of territory. It is located near the falls of the
Yakima River, which will develop over 900 horsepower. Prosser has two hotels,
the Lape and Riverside houses, one restaurant, one bank, two livery stables,
three general stores, one hardware and furniture store, two drug stores, one
meat market, one barber shop, one jewelry store, .one blacksmith shop, three
saloons, two newspapers, two churches, two lumber and coal yards, a millinery
store, harness shop, brick yard, undertaker's shop, a grist mill, pumping station
for an irrigation company, an electric light plant, four real estate offices, a
Chinese laundry, three confectionery and soft drink dispensaries, several secret
societies and a number of contemplated business ventures."
prosser's water power
"Remember, in considering Prosser's future, that it has one of the finest
water powers in this state. We have the power at our door for various manu-
factories. We have the wool at hand in the country about Prosser to furnish
a mill with all the raw material for the manufacture of the best of woolen
goods. Niowhere can cheaper or better power be had, and with the wool at
a mill's door, it would seem that the necessary capital and experience ought
soon to be forthcoming.
"The falls at present furnish power for the pumps of the irrigation com-
pany, Kemp & Taylor's flouring mill and the electric light company. Every
person who sees the tremendous water pow-er here practically idle, realizes with-
out much effort the importance and commercial value of same if utilized. It
seems as if the Creator intended this to be a center for the sons of men to
found a prosperous city, and so endowed it beneficently, first with a beautiful
natural location, and then with a splendid water povver to turn the spindles and
operate the shuttles of the near in the estimate of Prosser's future by both the
citizen and the stranger, the existence of its excellent water power figures very
materially in the conclusion arrived at.
"Only the other day, a level-headed commercial man, in speaking of
Prosser's future, very tersely said : 'That water power alone ought to make
this the best town between Tacoma and Spokane inside of ten years,' and the
drummer put it right, and several of the boys have bought Prosser lots to back
their judgment. Too much within the bounds of truth can not be said in favor
of Prosser's water power."
HORSE HE.WEN COUNTRY
"From the Yakima River, near Prosser, the hills to the south rise abruptly
to a height of 1,000 feet. Gaining this eminence and turning about, one sees
to the northeast the Rattlesnake Hills gradually rising until their irregular line
blends with the horizon. Looking to the west one beholds the great valley of
the Yakima, w^th Mounts Adams and Tacoma in the distance, robed in spotless
white, while the timbered Cascade Range, which divides eastern from western
Washington, can be traced in its northerly course as far as the eye can reach.
Meandering down the valley, and visible for miles upon miles, flows the Yakima
River, its silver waters gleaming in the afternoon sunlight, a thing of beauty.
532 HISTORY Ol' YAKIMA \ ALLEY
On the south bank of this splendid mountain stream, which is fed by the springs
and rivulets of the Cascades, nestles the growing little city of Prosser, a place
whose future is assured. Up and down the river are fine farms and green
fields of alfalfa; orchards and gardens catch the eye and show the viewer what
irrigation will do for the valley. Looking toward the south and east, there
spreads before the beholder a great plateau of bunch grass, sage brush and green
wheat fields, from this height, apparently as level as a barn floor. To the east
the Horse Heaven section extends beyond Kiona, thence south at least 20 miles
to the Columbia River, and westward a distance of from 50 to 75 miles. As
one gets near the Columbia River the land becomes sandy, and the rich soil of
Horse Heaven proper is lacking. In no country is there a more prolific soil
for wheat, vegetables and fruit. The area of wheat soil in Horse Heaven has
been variously estimated to contain from 250.000 to 300,000 acres.
"We quote from a pamphlet recently issued on the "Horse Heaven Wheat
Belt':
" "This land is especially adapted to wheat raising, the wheat production
being dry and hard and bringing the highest market price for export milling
purposes. Wheat yields from 20 to 30 bushels per acre, depending upon the
knowledge and effort of the farmer. Some farmers only plow the ground once
in four to seven years, and the grain brings a volunteer crop each year — the yield
of a volunteer crop brings from 9 to 20 bushels per acre. The wheat is
harvested and threshed with the California combined machine, and in no place
in the United States can wheat be raised with less expense. Four men and
thirty horses will cut, thresh and sack 35 to 40 acres per day. Some machines
cut 2,000 acres in one season. A farmer can get his wheat cut, threshed and
sacked for $1.50 per acre, and the machine company boards all the men and
pays all expense. This combined machine heads the grain, elevates it into the
threshing machine, threshes and runs the wheat through a fanning mill into
sacks which are then dumped in winrows in the field. The straw from the
machine is scattered over the field and plowed under or left in bunches ready
for burning just as desired. One man drives the horses on the machine, one
attends to the header, one to the separator, and still another one sews the sacks
and dumps them in winrows. This wonderful machine, all complete, costs, de-
pending on the size, from $1,600 to $1,800, and the actual expense to the farmer
who owns a machine, to get his crop in sack, does not exceed 50 cents per acre.
"A 'Bulletin' reporter drove through a portion of this wonderful country
one day last week and is enthusiastic in his praise of it. Without doubt it is a
world beater. Let any unprejudiced man go over this section and he is the
rankest pessimist on earth if he fails to be impressed with the idea that it is
destined to be one of the richest sections on the coast. The reporter saw thou-
sands of acres of Spring and Fall grain, waving in the breeze, that can not lie
equalled in any wheat country in the United States. The grain is now a rich
dark green, and the visitor's first and last impression is that it is an extra healthy
growth. Thousands of acres are being jjlowed this year up there: new farm
houses, niDsily unpretentious, as is the case in all newly settled sections, are
going uj) ill every direction. Farming in the Horse Heaven country is not an
experiment. Several Prosseritcs h:\\e made their start in life, and a good on?
HISTORY OF YAKIMA W-VLLEY 533
at that, raising wheat in Horse Heaven. Many persons who bought railroad
land a few years ago at from 50 cents to $1.00 per acre, have made big money
this season by selling it at $5 to $7 per acre, and this in addition to the cash
received for their wheat crops during occupation of the land. Thousands of
acres have changed hands since last Spring and the market is growing stififer
every day. This is a fact that any one will tell you. That Horse Heaven is
a fine wheat countr}- all will concede. There is no controversy anywhere about
that.
"Now, as to what it will do in other lines of agriculture can not be better
illustrated anywhere than by a visit to the farm of Mr. L. Jacquot, in section
20, township 8 north, range 26 east, in whom the 'Bulletin' reporter found a
former Washington County, Oregon, market gardener. Mr. Jacquot formerly
raised garden stuff for the Portland market, and thoroughly understands the
art. He has about an acre enclosed by a picket fence, making it rabbit proof.
Of this tract every available foot of ground not occupied by his house was
planted to some sort of vegetable. There were peas, corn, cabbage, turnips,
radishes, kale, carrots, beets, lettuce, parsnips, onions, tomatoes, beans, rutabagas
and squashes ; also strawberries, all growing finely — as w^ell as, if not better
than such growths on irrigated lands. I\Ir. Jacquot was enthusiastic about his
vegetables. T never saw beets to equal these,' he said, pointing to a bed of that
species. T think it is the best bed of beets in the state." When asked how he
prepared the soil to raise so fine a garden, Mr. Jacquot said T plowed it
from 10 to 11 inches deep. This done, the soil will do the rest. I cultivate
potatoes just as soon as they appear above the ground, then let them alone.
The soil is loose and nature matures them. I have been using new potatoes
since the 9th of June.' Mr. Jacquot will have been on his ranch two years
next October. He set out strawberries last spring and he show-ed the reporter
a number of ripe berries on the vines. Raspberries and blackberries do well
there. Mr. Jacquot has over 300 young chickens. This seems to be a good
country for poultry. Incubators are used by several Horse Heaven house-
wives with great success in hatching chicks. A large percentage of those
hatched reach maturity. About the garden proposition, ]\lr. Jacquot was par-
ticular to impress the reporter with the fact that not one drop of water, other
than that which fell from the sky, had ever been put upon his garden. If any
one doubts that the finest vegetables can be raised in Horse Heaven without
irrigation, let him go up to Mr. Jacquot's ranch, section, town and range afore-
said, and see for himself. As to fruit trees, old settlers have demonstrated that
apricots and prunes will do well in Horse Heaven. Small fruits also do well
when ke[)t from the rabbits, which can easilv be done by proper and inexpensive
fencing.
".\s to the faith that non-residents have in the Horse Heaven country we
desire to instance the case of .Mr. Martin Weller, of Waitsburg, this state:
"Mr. Weller owns 7,6S0 acres in Horse Heaven, and 1,920 in Rattlesnake.
He has 6,000 acres under the plow, most of which has been reclaimed this
season. .Altogether he has 9,760 acres of as good grain land as any one could
wish, and he has thus far this year spent over $3,000 for plowing alone. Next
season he will have an immense acreage in wheat, and with ordinary good luck
534 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
will make a cleanup of $20 pieces that will be worth talking about. Mr. Weller
has for years been a successful farmer in the Walla Walla country. The fact
that Mr. Weller, a non-resident, has invested so heavily in Horse Heaven and
Rattlesnake lands, and that he proposes to farm it for the money there is in
wheat raising, and taking into consideration the further fact that Mr. Weller
is regarded as a shrewd business man, is itself significant of his faith in Horse
Heaven soil. There are many homesteads left in the above country, and the
young man or young woman who fails to get one of these wheat tracts from
Uncle Sam will regret it."
We find the issue of the "Bulletin" of August 6, 1903, to carry the heading
of H. G. Guild and Son. The son was H. H. Guild. On November 19, 1903,
the name of A. C. Verity appears as manager. We incorporate here the farewell
and the greeting at time of the transfer. E. L. Boardman acquired the paper
with the issue of September 1, 1904. The name then became "Prosser Bulletin."
"From the 'Prosser Falls Bulletin,' November 19, 1903.
"We have sold the 'Prosser Falls Bulletin' to Mr. Arton E. Verity, late of
St. Paul, Minnesota. All subscriptions are due and payable to him. Our
reason for selling is that we wish to engage in other business. We wish to
thank the good people of Prosser who have assisted us to establish the 'Bulletin'
on so firm a foundation, and we bespeak a liberal patronage for our successor,
who is a good newspaper man and comes well recommended. For the informa-
tion of our friends we wish to state that we expect to remain in Prosser.
H. G. Guild."
GREETINGS
"The undersigned, Arton E. Verity, formerly of the 'St. Paul (Minn.)
Daily Globe,' has purchased the 'Prosser Falls Bulletin' from its former owner,
H. G. Guild.
"He feels that the policy of the new management may be completely stated
in the broad announcement that the 'Bulletin' will continue to aid the upbuilding
of the city, county and state and to resist the efforts of those who would tear
down existing forms of government.
"Such a policy naturally means that the paper will be liberal and pro-
gressive in its treatment of local topics, working for harmony in all things ;
and in its state and national policy, soundly republican, not hide-bound, but with
the party in all the great principles which have, under republican management,
built up the nation, reserving the right to criticise some of the questionable
ideas which creep into party planks and which are hardly on the plane of the
general broad and liberal policy of the party.
"But politics will be of secondary importance in the 'Bulletin.' The paper's
mission is not to 'save the nation,' but to do its little mite toward shaping and
chronicling events of the city and county. The old saw. 'take care of the dimes
and the dollars will take care of themselves,' may be paraphrased into 'take care
of the city and the nation will take care of itself,' and express the 'Bulletin's'
belief to a nicety.
'"So the 'Bulletin' proposes to go humbly on its career as a country news-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 535
paper, in patient and confident belief that Prosser is destined for greater things
and that the next few years will see remarkable growth in population in Prosser
and vicinity.
"In the meantime the paper will try to keep pace with the improvement.
Mechanically and editorially it hopes to grow too. It hopes to see its field and
influence broaden and already notes the beginning of that growth in a generous
increase in the subscription list during this, the first week under the new
management.
"In its commercial printing the office will especially try to keep up with the
times, guaranteeing high grade work to all customers and believing that the
best is none too good for Prosser business men.
"As editor, the undersigned hopes to enjoy pleasant relations with the
people of Prosser and of Yakima County for many years to come.
"Arton E. Verity."
The other parent of this journalistic family, the "Republican," appears first
in history as the "Benton County Republican." The date of its birth was
October 19, 1906. There have been rapid changes in its management. P. A.
Durant was the father of the paper, and the Prosser Publishing Company car-
ried on the publication. Of that company, Thomas Cavanaugh was president,
Guy H. Pearl was treasurer, and A. F. Hills was secretary.
On November 6, 1907, the combination of the "Republican-Bulletin" was
eft'ected under the management of Mr. Boardman. In the issue of June 24,
1908, we find the name of Halsey R. Watson at the masthead as editor and
manager. On July 10, 1910, R. J. Dawson became editor. He was followed by
W. R. Sproull, who had been for a year or more one of the stafif. Mr. Sproull
continued in charge four years, then eft'ected a partnership with Mr. Allison.
As already noted Mr. Sproull closed his connection with the paper and became
proprietor and manager of the "Independent-Record," in April, 1915. At
present date the editor and publisher of the "Republican-Bulletin" is Walter E.
Tyler, assisted by Mrs. M. Mahoney.
KIONA .\ND BENTON CITY PAPERS
"In 1907 a paper was launched at Kiona, the 'Enterprise,' published and
edited by French and French. In 1911 Mr. Dudley undertook the establish-
ment of the 'Benton City NIews.' This was succeeded by the 'Benton City
Herald,' Mr. Hawn, editor and proprietor. These journalistic efforts were
short-lived, but did much while existing to promote local interest.
KENNEWICK PAPERS
From the county seat we turn to the town on the Columbia River, Kenne-
wick. The first paper in Kennewick was the "Columbian," established in 1893
by Winfield Harper. Here we now find the "Courier-Reporter" in possession
of the field. This paper is also a combination of two predecessors, the "Courier,"
founded in 1902 and the "Reporter" founded in 1908. The union of the two
was effected in 1913 and at present date the paper is published by the Kenne-
wick Printing Company, and A. R. Gardner is editor and manager.
536 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
The ancestor of the "Courier" line was the "Columbia Courier," trans-
ferred from Milton, Oregon, to Kennewick in 1902, by E. P. Greene, one of
the unique characters of early journalism. Mr. Greene was a man of great
natural force and brain power and established that paper at Kennewick at a
time of business revival and generally auspicious conditions in the town. As
casting light upon fhe journalistic enterprise as well as on the conditions in
Kennewick at that date we are reproducing here the "Courier's Announcement"
and a description of Kennewick in the first number, March 27, 1902:
"With this number the old 'Columbia Courier' becomes a local newspaper,
published at the town of Kennewick on the Columbia, Yakima County, Wash-
ington.
"It is not without some feelings of sadness that I change locations ami
associations after three years' fellowship with a noble and loving company.
But I have chosen this course, and from a material point of view, I doubt not,
have chosen wisely.
"To my new constituency I make the most graceful bow I am capable of.
I came here to give you the best local newspaper in my power. No, not to
give it to you, but to sell it. Not many of us are here simply for our health.
"I shall not attempt the impossible task of trying to please all of you, but
shall do the best I can, as I see it, to give you a representative paper, and shall
guard against all forms of favoritism. It will be my aim to do more than merely
chronicle the various local news. I am so constituted that I must be more than
a news-gathering machine, or an automaton, and I am glad I am.
"There is a kind of circumlocution common to newspaper speech that I
can not conveniently adopt. When I have anything to say, I say it in the first
person and singular number. The abomination euphoniously styled "the edi-
torial We,' is all right for a paper with a chip on its shoulder and a gun in its
pocket; but if I have lost any fights I am not hunting them up.
"I have a large faith in the future of this town and the country around it.
Whatever I can do to assist you in bringing possibilities to pass will be cheer-
fully done.
"If you have given such matters any attention you must acknowledge that
faithful, energetic newspaper service is the best possible agency to promote the
growth and development of a new town, or an old one. It does a large amount
of free advertising for every enterprise of the town, but it can not do it all free.
A poor paper is little better than no paper, and a paper without support is bound
to be a poor one.
"I don't w-ant the earth, but I do want a little piece of it, and I want it
right here at Kennewick. We can help each other. I'll try to do my part.
"As to politics, I have an idea that one party is about as bad as another, if
not worse. But more than that, I am not here for politics, but for Kennewick
and Pea Greene. I have had about all the amusement with politics that I can
afford.
"With these few remarks, we'll proceed to saw wood.
"Yours for Kennewick,
"E. P. Greene."
I'Vom "The Courier.'
HISTORY OF YAKLMA VALLEY 537
KENNEWICK ON THE COLUMBIA
"Kennewick, the future metropolis of central Washington, is situated in
the southeastern part of the famous Yakima County. It has a beautiful loca-
tion on the Columbia River, and is on the main line of the Northern Pacific
Railroad.
"Some years ago a number of supposed capitalists organized an irrigation
company and proceeded to develop the desert. A canal was dug, townsite
platted, a $15,000 hotel built, and for a time Kennewick cut quite a swath.
There were several stores, a newspaper ('The Kennewick Columbian') and the
1)00111 held up long enough to prove what irrigation and good management can
ilo for this entire section.
"And then came the days of panic. The company's business went into the
hands of a receiver, and was found to be in such shape that it was not advisable
to continue. The town became nearly depopulated, and remained in that con-
dition till quite recently.
"Some time ago the Northern Pacific Railroad Company got control of the
old company's holdings, and in February work was commenced on the canal.
People who have faith in the proposition under the new management soon
rented or bought every available building and Kennewick is again on the up
grade.
"The company's methods have nothing of the nature of 'the boom.' In
fact they are making no effort at all to get people here until the lands are platted
and ready for improvement, which may take 30 or 60 days.
"I believe it is now virtually settled that the old townsite, between the rail-
road and the river, will be vacated, and a new one be platted just south of the
track. This will be a decided improvement over the old location.
"The splendid triumphs of irrigation in other sections of Yakima County
give ample assurance of the success that is now in store for this part of it.
"And the future has something more in store than irrigation. As the state
develops to the north, east and west of this place, many of its products will
inevitably pass through this immediate vicinity. It is not a very heavy strain
on the imagination, to expect Columbia River navigation, and that the business
of the Northern Pacific will increase very rapidly in the next few years.
"No one but railroad companies can, of course, know very much about
their plans, and yet it does not look unreasonable that before all of us die, the
N. P. will have a line down the Columbia on the north side. When this comes
to pass, it is also not unreasonable to imagine Kennewick to be very "close in"
at this end of the line.
"This much is certain : Kennewick will within the next sixty days be a
thriving competitor for some of the prosperity that is so abundant throughout
the entire state.
"I am under the impression that there is no other place in the northwest
where irrigation promises greater successes than it does here.
"After putting the above article in type Mr. W. C. Sampson, who will
have the local oversight of the company's lands, informed me that work on the
townsite plat would begin this week. This means that Kennewick is already put-
ting on airs."
538 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \''ALLEY
Following "Pea Greene," who went to Pasco, C. O. Anderson became
editor and manager of the "Courier" during 1903 and in 1904 till August 5th.
With that issue Will J. Shaughnessey succeeded to the control of the paper.
The "Kennewick Reporter" was founded by Scott Z. Henderson, formerly
of Walla Walla and for some time a lawyer at Kermewick, and later known
throughout the state as assistant attorney-general. Associated with Air. Hen-
derson were Messrs. Reed and Tripp, the latter of whom is still connected with
the publication department. In 1909 the editorial chair was acquired by A. R.
Gardner, then quite a young man, having gone in for a journalistic career, fol-
lowing his college days at Whitman College, at Walla Walla.
Mr. Gardner has become more intimately identified with the affairs of
Kennewick and the entire region than any other newspaper man of the entire
region. His activity in all matters of public interest, his literary ability, and
his capacity to conduct a first-class local paper, have been so pronounced as to
constitute one of the working influences of the lower Yakima Valley.
The "Courier-Reporter" is staunchly republican, though independently so.
Turning from the two larger towns of Benton County, we find in the three
pleasant and prosperous little places on the Columbia River, above the mouth
of the Yakima, some newspaper history.
The oldest newspaper of this section is the "Richland Advocate." This
dates its origin to the year 1906, at the hands of T. E. McCrosky. It also is of
republican politics. It has passed through sundry hands, but at present date is
edited and managed by Perry Willoughby. This experienced "knight of the
quill" may well be considered a pioneer of journalism. In 1908 he founded the
"Hanford Columbian," no longer in existence. He also launched the "Hover
Sunshine" in the ambitious little place on the river below Kennewick. It, too,
proved to be premature and no longer is in operation.
Among other newspaper people in the Columbia River section, we must
record the names of E. L. McLoughlin and Mrs. Bryce of Hanford, connected
with the "Columbian."
At present date the only paper at the upper end of the river section is the
"White Blufts Spokesman." This dates to 1908, and is edited and managed
by E. J. O'Larey.
In concluding this necessarily rapid review of the newspapers of the valley
it is of interest to note that there are now in existence in the three counties,
three dailies and nineteen weeklies. All the existing issues are either inde-
pendent or republican in politics.
It is not inappropriate to note that by the latest Newspaper Directory the
state of Washington had in 1914, four hundred publications of all sorts, and
that in the entire United States there were 24,527 dailies, weeklies, semi-
monthlies and monthlies, quarterlies and annuals.
CHAPTER VIII
THE YAKIMA INDIAN RESERVATION
OUTLINE OF HISTORY OF THE RESERVATION— ALLOTMENT OF LAND IN SEVERALTY
IRRIGATION ON THE RESERVATION — FACTS FROM GOVERNMENT REPORTS —
STORAGE WATER PRINCIPAL CROPS CENSUS OF CROPS. 1916-17-18 WHAT
CHIEF WATERS SAYS — INDIANS ARE WELL PLEASED — EQUAL RIGHTS WITH
WHITES EXTRACTS FROM ARTICLE BY SUPERINTENDENT S. A. M. YOUNG
The Reservation holds a unique and important place in the history and in
the present development of the Yakima Valley. As a feature of historic inter-
est it is the especial connecting link between the native race and the present
age. As we have seen in the chapter on Indian Wars, the Yakima Reservation,
with the Nez Perce and Umatilla reservations, was set aside for the Indians at
the end of the wars of the decade of the fifties. We have given in that chap-
ter the treaty by which the Reservation was laid out. This great body of
land, with its Indian population, has had the ordinary history of such a reser-
vation, but it has had a number of other features which have made it much
more than simply an Indian reservation. In the first place the tract of land
assigned to the Indians is the largest and in many respects, by reason of soil,
climate, and location, the best of the several divisions of the valley. Second,
by reason of the development of the Government irrigation enterprises, it has a
possible future industrially second to no other region in the valley, or in the
entire Northwest. Third, by reason of the development side by side of red
race and white, and the peculiar interlockings of business and social connec-
tions, such as probably no other reservation in the whole United States offers,
this Reservation seems to have the potency within itself to work out some solu-
tions of the "Indian problems" and become an object lesson in policy. Yet an-
other reason is found in the fact that the agricultural and horticultural possi-
bilities of the reservation produced by the coexistence of available soil and a
vast irrigation system have led to the starting of several promising towns, one
of which, Toppenish, ranks next to Yakima and EUensburg of all the towns
of the valley, while two others, Mabton and Wapato, are on the high road to
commercial development.
OUTLINE OF HISTORY OF THE RESERV.\TI0N
Special interest also gathers around two of the agents who had not only
such long terms, but such marked characters as to almost justify us in the
statement that their histor>- was that of the Reservation. These were Father
Wilbur and Jay Lynch. The former was superintendent of the Reservation
schools four years and agent sixteen years. The latter was agent under three
539
540 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \ALLEY
separate appointments a total of eighteen years. The two administrations to-
gether compose a total of thirty-four years out of a total period, from the estab-
lishment of Fort Simcoe in 1856 to the present date, of sixty-two years. Hence
it could not well be otherwise than that these two men should have stamped
their personalities upon the Reservation beyond any others. Major Lynch is
living at this date in Yakima in a beautiful suburban home, where he is de-
servedly enjoying well-earned repose after his busy life. From him the author
obtained much valuable matter.
We have referred to the establishment of Fort Simcoe as though that were
the date of founding of the Reservation.
That is not strictly the case. The fort was constructed in the Fall of 1856,
but it was not till 1858 that there was a resident agent at that point. The site
of the fort is a superb one. It was selected by reason of a region of springs
known among the Indians as "Mool Mool." At that point, too, there is a beau-
tiful grove of oaks, the finest of that long belt which rather curiously runs at
just about a certain distance from the mountains north and south across the
upper stretches of all the tributaries of the Yakima. The site of the fort is
about seven hundred feet higher than the plain on which Wapato and Toppenish
are located, and from the fort the vast expanse of level land eastward melts
away in the shimmering distances into the desert ridges, all their arid desola-
tion clothed in azure beauty.
The buildings at the fort were very expensive, having been constructed
from timbers brought around Cape Horn, transported from Portland to The
Dalles and thence hauled to the fort. It is said that the agent's residence cost
$60,000 and that the total cost of the buildings at Fort Simcoe was $300,000.
The author recalls with great interest a visit by himself to the fort in 1880 when
Father ^^■ilbur was still there, and the bounteous hospitality that was dispensed
in the great roomy home of that free handed and large hearted agent. So sound
and well constructed were those first buildings that they are practically as
good as new now, sixty years old.
Andrew J. Bolen, whose murder in 1855 precipitated the Indian War, w-as
the first Indian agent in the valley, but his location was at The Dalles and
there was no definite establishment of any kind in the Yakima. Simcoe was
chosen as the location of a fort and then as an agency upon the advice of Col-
onel Wright who urged the w^arm climate and favorable conditions of all sorts
as making it suitable beyond any other. At the time of establishing Fort Sim-
coe, R. H. Lounsdale was general superintendent, located at The Dalles. A. A.
Bancroft became the first resident agent, and that was in 1861. In 1861 James
H. Wilbur became superintendent of schools. It is generally said that there
was much graft and dishonesty in those first short administrations. To a man
like Father Wilbur anything short of complete rectitude was so obnoxious that
he had no hesitation in making his sentiments known. The result was that he
was "fired" as superintendent of schools.
P>ut he was no sort of man to be shoved aside in such manner. lie
promptly went to Washington, laid the whole case before President Lincoln,
and did it with such efifect that he returned with a commission as agent in his
pocket. That was in 1864. He speedily dispossessed the former agent, and for
GOVERNilEXT STATION, YAKIMA KESERVATIOX, FOREST 1!ESERVE
HISTORY OF YAKIMA \-ALLEY 541
sixteen years ruled the Reservation with a strong hand and yet with a heart
overflowing with sympathy and good will. So many stories are told of Father
Wilbur as to make a volume in themselves.
Beyond any of the frontier preachers he seems to have stamped himself
upon the minds and hearts of people. As Indian agent he occupied quite a
different role, but one for which he was equally fitted.
The author saw him only when he had become somewhat advanced in
years, but even then he was a man of superb physique, about six feet two in
height and weighing nearly 300 pounds. He was of dark complexion, with a
clear, keen black eye, and with a face which was a curious mingling of humor,
kindness and firmness.
As illustrating something of his manners and methods we quote from
A. J. Splawn as follows:
■'Wilbur, through his excellent service at Fort Simcoe, gained the confi-
dence of the authorities at Washington and when, in 1873, a commission wns
appointed to meet at Linkville, Wilbur was named to serve on it with A. B.
Meacham and T. B. Odeneal. Meacham refused to act with Wilbur and
Odeneal, so two other men were appointed. They failed to make any treaty.
I am not alone in thinking that, had Wilbur been present and Meacham many
miles away, the life of Gen. E. R. S. Canby would not have been sacrificed.
The Indians had faith in Wilbur, but none in Meacham.
"Whatever he might have been at times, Wilbur was always a Methodist.
He built churches and turned out Methodist preachers from among the Indians.
In his zeal to Christianize his wards, he would preach for them in the church
houses and pray with them in their wigwams. He was certainly a crusader.
Sometimes he would bribe an Indian to go to church on Sunday by plowing
for him a day in the fields, and as the agent was a giant of a man, able to do a
splendid day's work, the Indians were only too glad to attend church under
these conditions.
"When Father Napoleon St. Onge, in 1867, was sent to reestablish the St.
Joseph Mission in the Ahtanum, which had been burned by the Oregon Vol-
unteers in the Indian War of 1855-56, a religious rivalry at once sprang up
between him and Wilbur. There were already many Catholics among the In-
dians, as the mission had been in existence seven or eight years previous to the
outbreak, and the priest was a brilliant and worthy man. While some of the
Catholic Indians had subsequently joined the Methodist Church, they were
now returning to the mission. So dissatisfied did Wilbur become at this state
of afl:"airs, that he made a trip to Washington, D. C, in 1870 to lay the matter
before the Indian department, with the result that President Grant issued an
order allotting the spiritual welfare of the Yakima Indians to the Methodist
Church. Father St. O'nge left the mission, but the Catholic work was continued
there by the Jesuits. Wilbur, however, had won his point and he maintained it.
"There is no possible question of the earnest effort Father Wilbur made to
Ijenefit the Indians as he saw it. It is equally true that, had he made the same
investment of time and labor among his own race, there would have been much
more to show for it. After a pretty long observation of the Indian, I have
come to the conclusion that, where he sees a worldly advantage in it he will
stick to Christianity; but, if not, his religious ardor quickly cools.
542 HISTORY OF YAKIAIA VALLEY
"Father Wilbur once told me a story which shows the characteristics of
the man. In his church work in the Willamette Valley, in the early days when
settlers were few and far between, he was requested to preach on a certain
Sabbath in the Santiam district. He started out on horseback with a hard
day's ride before him. Rain began to pour in torrents and darkness came on
before he had reached his destination. Seeing at last a light, he rode up and
halloed. The door opened and a voice inquired what he wanted. 'A place to
stay over night,' said Wilbur. 'I can not tind my way farther in the darkness.'
The answer came back, 'We can not keep you, but about a mile further on
you will find another house. Perhaps they can accommodate you there.'
'Thanks for your kind information,' said Wilbur. 'I expect to preach in this
neighborhood tomorrow. This action of yours will furnish me the text for my
sermon.' When the man learned who the stranger was, he said, 'Why, Wilbur,
I am a member of your church. Come right in. I will take your horse to the
stable.' But the rider quickly replied, 'No sir, if you would not care for the
poorest hireling who might be so unfortunate as to travel this way on a dark
and stormy night such as this, your roof can not shelter James H. Wilbur.'
And he rode on to find more hospitable people.
"Father Wilbur came nearer representing the type of Bayard of old, a
man without fear and without reproach, than any one I ever knew. While the
Indians sometimes got angry at him for his autocratic methods, they realized
that he had their interests at heart, and they knew him to be fair and good.
His credulity was often imposed upon, it is true, by men from time to time ar-
rested for infringement of the rules and regulations of the Reservation. If the
culprits did not already know, they soon learned Wilbur's weakness for a con-
vert. The prisoners would ask to attend prayers, profess to repent of their
sins and sometimes join his church, a line of conduct which never failed to
bring about their release, with presents thrown in. That he favored the Meth-
odist Indian there is no doubt. He had little use for the Catholic red man and
still less for the wild, blanket Indian who still clung to his ancient ceremony and
believed in his tam-man-a-was. That he faithfully endeavored to Christianize
them all by making Methodists of them, no one will deny : and he failed only
because, nature, a stronger force, was working against him.
"I had always supposed, and others had the same idea, that Wilbur had at
one time, before entering the ministry, been a policeman on the Bowery in
New York, but now that I come to write of him, I can not say that he actualh-
ever told me so. I do recall, however, that he spoke about having to handle
toughs, and we assumed that he meant in the Tenderloin. He certainly knew
the trick, wherever he learned it. Two Indian friends of mine, while on a
visit to some of their natives near the agency, got hold of some whisky and
became troublesome. They were fine specimens of their race, both athletes
priding themselves on their wrestling, and good fellows except for their weak-
ness for fire water. Word came to Father Wilbur of the racket they were
making, and he dispatched two of his Indian policemen to bring them into the
agency. In a short time, the policemen returned without the prisoners, but
showing signs of having tried to make the arrest. Wilbur himself mounted his
mule — he weighed 300 pounds and could not find horses strong enough to carry
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 543
him— and, with two other Indians, immediately set out for the scene of the
disturbance. The boisterous Indians came out promptly, thinking to treat him
as they had the policemen. Father Wilbur just took one in each hand by the
neck and bumped their heads together until the blood ran from their noses;
after which they went to jail meekly enough. Word of this exploit was carried
from mouth to mouth through the tribes and no one, after that, cared to meas-
ure strength with the powerful agent. The Indians that received the chastise-
ment, laughingly told me about it, saying that Wilbur was not human, but part
an-e-hoo-e (bear)."
Another story of Father Wilbur is derived from a book by Father Ken-
nedy, another pioneer Methodist preacher.
"The Indians at once feared and loved him. While at the agency one time
he told us the following story: A German brought a wagon of liquor onto
the Reservation and began selling to the Indians. Down near the Satus River,
twelve miles away from Fort Simcoe, he built his booth — set a tent — fixed a
counter and shelves — put his stock in and was dealing out the 'fire water' as
independently as if wholly protected by law. Some of the Indians were get-
ting drunk when Father Wilbur discovered it. He sent word to the sheriff of
Yakima County to go down there and arrest the intruder. The sheriiif (I well
knew him) sent word back that he knew that young German too well. That,
having a large family on his hands to support he must let out that job to some
one else; that he could have it if he desired. Next morning Father Wilbur
saddled his riding mule, took a good riding horse with saddle and some ropes
tied on behind. Then he called to his aid an Indian with saddle horse. To-
gether they rode in sight of the booth ; they dismounted and tied the three horses
to trees. Father Wilbur then gave instruction to the Indian to stay by the
horses, ropes in hand, and come to help when called. With no kind of weapon,
he approached the place. The proprietor was ready for him — recognizing the
agent — and had a double-barrel shotgun loaded and lying across his counter.
When Wilbur got within forty feet the German took up the shotgun, saying,
'if you come any farther I will kill you.' Wilbur stopped; stood with a steady
eye upon him, spoke not a word. The German began to pour out a volley of
oaths, and after he was exhausted with cursing he took up a whisky bottle,
poured some out into a glass and drank it. While engaged in that act, Wilbur
sprang, like a cat upon a mouse, right upon that demon — threw him backward
on the ground, and was over him. But the German was a young and very stout
man — he threw his hand back to his belt, grabbed his sheath knife, and made his
aim at Wilbur's side. Seeing the move, he brought his foot with such force
against the man's arm that the knife flew clear across the booth. Now the
Indian was on hand, and with the ropes they securely tied the man, brought the
horse, lifted him into the saddle, and soon were out on the road; and within two
hours they had the 'demon' locked safely in the guard house. Once a day Father
Wilbur would go to his cell and take in bread and water. The man would curse.
On going in on the third day, he called to Wilbur: 'I have acted like a fool, iMr.
Wilbur, now if you will release me I will go down to my store of 'fire water,'
pour out the last drop of it, go home, and live like a man the balance of my
life.' Til take you at your word,' said Wilbur. He saddled the horses and
544 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
the two rode down to the twelve-mile place. True to his word that German
poured out all his whiskey, then telling Father Wilbur 'good-bye,' turned away
to go home to the Spokane country. 'Hold,' said Wilbur, 'you will need money
on your journey, here is twenty dollars — go now, and God bless you.'
"About ten years after Father Wilbur was over in the Palouse country on
a preaching tour. Held night meeting at a certain place. At the close of the
meeting a good looking, strong young man came forward to shake his hand.
'Father Wilbur, I suppose you will not recognize me. I am far from the place
where you last saw me, and a very different man: thanks to God and yourself.
I'm the man who tried to ruin your Indians with liquor, and you kept me on
bread and water for three days. That little experience made me the man I
now am. Come back here, I want to introduce you to my wife and children.'
He had kept his word, and was now the strongest man in that church."
Upon the retirement of Father Wilbur in 1884, there were several ap-
pointees, none of whom had long terms. In the order in which they came,
these agents were Captain Burns, General Milroy, Captain Thomas Priestly,
W. L. Stabler, Major Jay Lynch for four years beginning in 1890. Then came
L. T. Ervin for a short time, and then reappointment of Major Jay Lynch again
in 1897. In 1902 a chance was made by which Indian agents came under civil
service rules. The official designation by the term agent was succeeded by that
of superintendent. The salary was the same. Major Lynch continued under
the name of superintendent till the year 1909. In that year S. A. ]\1. Young
was appointed. He helfl the position three years and was succeeded by Don M.
Carr. who is still superintendent.
.■\LLOTMEXT OF l..\.\D IN SEVEK.\LTV
Perhaps the most important step taken during Mr. Lynch's incumbency
was that of assigning lands to the Indians in severalty and thus gradually
breaking up the reservation system. This policy came into vogue generally
throughout the country during the i>eriod of the administrations of Cleveland
and Harrison. It is obviously the only way to secure the development of a
sense of responsibility and the other moral and mental qualities which will fit
Indians for citizenship. The Reservation system, while unavoidable as a trans-
ition stage, had serious defects. To our national shame be it said, the Indian
service was the prey of grafters and pirates to a greater degree than any other
service.
Even when there were agents of high character — as they generally were —
the opportunity for plunder by contractors and hangers-on and political cor-
morants in general were so great that both the Government and the Indians
were swindled at almost every turn. The manner in which these gambling
and whiskey pirates and the outwardly more respectable but inwardly more base
political pirates, looted the Government and debased the wards of the Goven\-
ment, oftentimes being the chief causes of Indian wars, in which innocent settlers
were the chief sufferers — is so atrocious as to make one temporarily lose faith in
our government. Happily justice and right got the upper hand in time. Philan-
thropists in the press and on the platform kept rousing the conscience of the
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 545
people and turning the searchlight of publicity upon the shady transactions of the
group of freebooters. In Congress men like Dawes and Haskell and others kept
the subject hot, and successive secretaries of the interior and commissioners of
Indian affairs, framed plans which eventuated in better laws and better adminis-
tration. While much is still to be desired, yet the improvement in the last quarter
century has been so marked that we seem truly to be in a new era.
The laws providing for allotments of land on the Reservation are of so much
interest and value that we include parts here.
— Public Acts of Fifty-eighth Congress, Third Session, I904-5 —
Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United
States of America in Congress assembled, That the Secretary of the Interior
be, and he is hereby, authorized and directed, as hereinafter provided, to sell or
dispose of unallotted lands embraced in the Yakima Indian Reservation proper,
in the state of Washington, set aside and established by treaty with the Yakima
Nation of Indians dated June eighth, eighteen hundred and fifty-five; Provided,
That the claim of said Indians to the tract of land adjoining their present reser-
valtion on the west, excluded by erroneous boundary survey and containing
approxijnately two hundred and ninety-three thousand eight hundred and thirty-
seven acres, according to the findings, after examination, of Mr. E. C. Barnard,
topographer of the Geological Survey, approved by the Secretary of the In-
terior April seventh, nineteen hundred, is hereby recognized, and the said
tract shall be regarded as a part of the Yakima Indian Reservaiton for the pur-
poses of this act : Provided, further. That where valid rights have been acquired
prior to March fifth, nineteen hundred and four, to lands within said tract by
bona fide settlers or purchasers under the public-land laws, such rights shall
not be abridged, and any claim of said Indians to these lands is hereby declared
to be fully compensated for by the expenditure of money heretofore made for
their benefit and in the construction of irrigation works on the Yakima Indian
Reservation.
Sec. 2. That allotments of land shall be made, under the direction of the
Secretary of the Interior, to any Indians entitled thereto, including children now
living, bom since the completion of the existing allotments, who have not here-
tofore received such allotments. The Secretary of the Interior is also authorized
to reserve such lands as he may deem necessary or desirable in connection with
the construction of contemplated irrigation systems, or lands crossed by exist-
ing irrigation ditches ; also lands necessary for agency, school, and religious
purposes ; also such tract or tracts of grazing and timber lands as may be deemed
expedient for the use and benefit of the Indians of said reservation in common ;
Provided, That such reserved lands, or any portion thereof may be classified,
appraised, and disposed of from time to time under the terms and provisions
of this act.
Sec. 3. That the residue of the lands of said reservation, that is, the
lands not allotted and not reserved — shall be classified under the direction of
the Secretary of the Interior as irrigable lands, grazing lands, timber lands,
mineral lands, or arid lands and shall be appraised under their appropriate
(35)
546 HISTORY OF YAKIMA X'ALLEY
classes by legal subdivisions, with the exception of the mineral lands, which
need not be appraised, and the timber of the lands classified as timber lands
shall be appraised separately from the land. The basis for the appraisal of the
timber, shall be the amount of standing merchantable timber thereon, which
shall be ascertained and reported.
Upon completion of the classification and appraisements the irrigable,
grazing, and arid lands, and the timbered lands upon the completion of the
classification, appraisement, and the sale and removal of the timber therefrom,
shall be disposed of under the general provisions of the homestead laws of the
United States, and shall be opened to settlement and entry at not less than
their appraised value by proclamation of the President, which proclamation
shall prescribe the manner in which these lands shall be settled upon, occupied,
and entered by persons entitled to make entry thereof, and no person shall be
permitted to settle upon, occupy, or enter any said lands, except as prescribed in
such proclamation, until after the expiration of sixty days from the time when
the same are opened to settlement and entry; Provided, That the rights of hon-
orably discharged Union soldiers and sailors of the late Civil and Spanish wars
and the Philippine insurrection, as defined and described in sections twenty-
three hundred and four and twenty-three hundred and five of the Revised Stat-
utes, as amended by the act of March first, nineteen hundred and one, shall not
be abridged : Provided further. That the price of said lands when entered shall
be that fixed by the appraisement or by the President, as herein provided for,
which shall be paid in accordance with rules and regulations to be prescribed by
the Secretary of the Interior, upon the following terms: One-fifth of the pur-
chase price to be paid in cash at the time of entry, and the balance in five equal
annual instalments, to be paid in one, two, three, four, and five years, respec-
tively, from and after the date of entry. In case any entryman fails to make
the annual payments, or any of them, promptly when due, all lights in and to
the land covered by this entry shall cease, and any payments theretofore made
shall be forfeited and the entr)- cancelled, and the lands shall be reoffered for
sale and entry ; And provided further, That the lands embraced within such
cancelled entry shall after the cancellation of such entry, be subject to entry
under the provisions of the homestead law, at the appraised value until other-
wise directed by the President, as herein provided.
When the entryman shall have complied with all the requirements and
terms of the homestead laws as to settlement and residence and shall have
made all the required payments aforesaid, he shall be entitled to a patent for
the lands entered: Provided, That the entrymen shall make his final proofs in
accordance with the homestead laws within six years ; and that aliens who have
declared their intention to become citizens of the United States may become
such entrymen, but before making final proof and receiving patent they must
have received their full naturalization papers: Provided further: That the
fees and commissions to be paid in connection with such entries and final proofs
shall be the same as those now provided by law where the price of the land is
one dollar and twenty-five cents per acre: And provided further, That the Sec-
retary of the Interior may, in his discretion, limit the quantity of irrigable land
that may be taken by any entryman to eighty acres, but not less than that quan-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA \'ALLEY 547
tity ; And provided further, That when, in the judgment of the President, no
more of the said land can be disposed of at the appraised price, he may, by
proclamation, to be repeated at his discretion, sell from time to time, the re-
maining lands subject to the provisions of the homestead law, or otherwise as
he may deem most advantageous, at such price or prices, in such manner, upon
such conditions, with such restrictions, and upon such terms as he may deem
best for all the interests concerned.
The timber on lands classified as timber lands shall be sold at not less than
its appraised value, under sealed proposals in accordance with such rules and
regulations as the Secretary of the Interior may prescribe.
The lands classified as mineral lands shall be subject to location and dis-
posal under the mineral-land laws of the United States: Provided, That lands
not classified as mineral may also be located and entered as mineral lands, sub-
ject to approval by the Secretary of the Interior and conditioned upon the pay-
ment, within one year from the date when located, of the appraised value of the
lands per acre fixed prior to the date of such location, but at not less than the
price fixed by existing law for mineral lands ; Provided further, That no such
mineral locations shall be permitted on any lands allotted to Indians in severalty
or reserved for any purpose as herein authorized.
Sec. 4. That the proceeds arising from the sale and disposition of the
lands aforesaid, including the sums paid for mineral lands, exclusive of the
customary fees and commissions, shall, after deducting the expenses incurred
from time to time in connection with the appraisements and sales, be deposited
in the Treasury of the United States to the credit of the Indians- belonging and
having tribal rights on the Yakima Reservation and shall be expended for their
benefit under the direction of the Secretary of the Interior in the construction,
completion, and maintenance of irrigation ditches, purchase of wagons, horses,
farm implements, materials for houses, and other necessary and useful articles,
as may be deemed best to promote their welfare and aid them in the adoption of
civilized pursuits and in improving and building homes for themselves on their
allotments : Provided, That a portion of the proceeds may be paid to the Indian^
in cash per capita, share and share alike, if in the opinion of the Secretary of
the Interior such payments will further tend to improve the condition and ad-
vance the progress of said Indians, but not otherwise.
Sec. 5. That the Secretary of the Interior is hereby authorized in the
cases of entrymen and purchasers of lands now irrigated or that may be here-
after irrigated from systems constructed for the benefit of the Indians, to re-
quire such annual proportionate payments to be made as may be just and
equitable for the maintenance of said systems : Provided, That in appraising
the value of irrigable lands, such sum per acre as the Secretary of the Interior
may deem proper, to be determined as nearly as may be by the total cost of the
irrigation system or systems, shall be added as the proportionate share of the
cost of placing water on said lands, and when the entryman or purchaser shall
have paid in full the appraised value of the land, including the cost of providing
water therefor, the Secretary of the Interior shall give to him such evidence of
title in writing to a perpetual water right as may be deemed suitable : Provided.
That the Secretary of the Interior shall have power to determine and direct
548 HISTORY OF YAKLMA VALLEY
when the management and operation of such irrigation works shall pass to the
owners of the lands irrigated thereby, to be maintained at their expense, under
such forms of organization and under such rules and regulations as may be ac-
ceptable to him: Provided also, That the title to and the management and
operation of the reservoirs, and the works necessary for their protection and
operation, shall remain in the Government until otherwise provided by Con-
gress.
Sec. 6. That the Secretary of the Interior is hereby vested with full
power and authority to make all needful rules and regulations as to manner of
sale, notice of same, and other matters incident to the carrying out of the pro-
visions of this act, and with authority to reappraise and reclassify said lands
if deemed necessar)' from time to time, and to continue making sales of the
same, in accordance with the provisions of this act, until all of the lands shall
have been disposed of.
Sec. 7. That nothing in this act contained shall be construed to bind the
United States to find purchasers for any of said lands, it being the purpose of
this act merely to have the United States to act as trustee for said Indians
in the disposition and sales of said lands and to expend or pay o\er to them the
proceeds derived from the sales as her-ein provided.
Sec. 8. That to enable the Secretary of the Interior to classify and ap-
praise the aforesaid lands as in this act provided, and to conduct the sales there-
of, and to define and mark the boundaries of the western portion of said reser-
vation, including the adjoining tract of two hundred and ninety-three thousand
eight hundred and thirty-seven acres, to which the claim of the Indians is, by
this act, recognized, as above set out, and to complete the surveys thereof, the
sum of fifty-three thousand dollars, or so much thereof as may be necessary, is
hereby appropriated from any moneys in the treasurj- not otherwise appropri-
ated, the same to be reimbursed from the proceeds of the sales of the aforesaid
lands : Provided, That when funds shall have been procured from the first sales
of the land the Secretary of the Interior may use such portion thereof as may be
actually necessary in conducting future sales and otherwise carrying out the
provisions of this act.
Approved, December 21, 1904.
Major Lynch tells us that the Indians did not at first take to the allot-
ment idea at all. To a civilized man this seems strange, but upon reflection it
is readily seen that the very effect — an evil though unavoidable one — of the
Reservation system has been to destroy the ambition for individual holdings and
improvements.
Major Lynch entered upon the task of making assignments almost im-
mediately upon his first appointment in 1890.
Special agents were sent by the Government to execute the details of the
work. Major Lynch summoned meetings of the head men of the tribe and pa-
tiently went over all the details. White Swan, perhaps the most dominant and
influential Indian since the time of Kamiakin, led the opposition to allotments.
The prevailing idea with him and his followers seems to have been that the
allotment plan would break up the unity of action and hence the means of self-
defense by the tribe, — a very mistaken, but from the Indian's \iewpoint, a very
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 549
natural idea. There was at first almost hopeless confusion in carrying out the
process of allotments.
In response to the urgent representations of Major Lynch the Government
sent Colonel Rankin as a special allotment agent, and gradually order came
out of confusion.
Some Indians tore up the surveyor's stakes and otherwise impeded the pro-
cess. There were some counter claims as to special location. In general, how-
ever, there was not so much conflict over locations as might have been ex-
pected. By a sort of common consent the Indians had had for years a recog-
nized habitat belonging to a family. They were already distributed pretty
much according to convenience and preference, and when after long weeks and
months of arguing and explaining they consented to allotments they were gen-
erally ready to designate their specific locations.
IRRIGATION ON THE RESERNATION
The next great question confronting Major Lynch was irrigation. Of the
vast body of land about sixty-five miles by forty miles, and embracing about
1,100,000 acres, about 200,000 acres are irrigable. Something over a quarter
million acres have been alloted in individual tracts. The natural facilities for
irrigation on a great scale are all there — snowy mountains, culminating I'n the
stupendous, glacier-encircled bulk of Adams in the southwest corner — -numer-
ous rapid streams, lands of uniform slope, natural drainage — every condition,
in fact, marking out the valleys of the Simcoe, Toppenish and Satus as an
ideal location for a great irrigation system.
Major Lynch tells us that an erroneous survey during the time of Agent
Stabler cut oflf 300,000 acres from the heads of some of the mountain streams
on the west from the Reservation and caused difficulties in commanding the
sources of water supply. Many troubles and complications arose by reason of
pressure from the railroad company, private irrigation companies, state de-
mands, and schemes of all sorts for control of desirable locations on the Reser-
vation. As a result of legal proceedings the Government put bounds to the
railroad and state aggressions.
Laws were passed allowing the location of town sites by conferring patents
upon Indian allottees by which they might convey their lands at certain points.
In pursuance of those laws, Toppenish, Mabton and Wapato were established
in about 1902, and have had a rapid growth. As a result of the gathering of
white business men in these towns the demand for a comprehensive system of
irrigation became insistent. In 1898 the leasing of farm lands was inaugurated
by Government, and this situation made yet more imperative the call for water.
Into the voluminous projects and discussions, national, state and local, we can
not enter. Believing that there was danger of the Indians losing their rights
Major Lynch clung tenaciously to securing for them a distribution system as
part of their inalienable guaranties. Much credit for preserving those essen-
tial rights to the Indians must be accorded to Mr. L. V. McWhorter and the
Indian Rights Association.
The United States Reclamation Service recommended charging part of
the expense of the Reservoir system to the Reservation lands. Major Lynch
550 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
succeeded in getting a modification of that plan so that the Government made
an appropriation of $600,000, by which the Indians were to grant the water
to the control of the Reclamation service, but were to receive in part free water
rights.
The final law dealing with the subject was that of August 1, 1914, by which
each allotment was granted a free water-right to one-half of its area. By offi-
cial ruling this right has been declared to attach to all successors of lands under
Indian titles. This provision will have a most important bearing on the agri-
cultural growth of the Reservation. For by reason of this smaller irrigation
expense, as well as the fact that the lay of the land is such as to reduce all ex-
penses to a minimum, the Reservation will have no rival in net profit of produc-
tion.
As a summary of the present situation regarding the distribution of water
and the character of the different holdings, with allied data of value, we include
here some statistics from a folder issued by the Commercial Club of Toppenish
in August, 1918.
FACTS FROM GOVERNMENT REPORTS
The following statistics concerning the Wapato unit of the Reservation
project are given in L^nited States Government figures.
Acres, 120,000.
Number of allotments, 1,800.
Area now irrigated, 53,000 acres.
Area sold by Indians or patented in fee, 22,720 acres, of which 20,000
acres were sold prior to the act of May 18. 1916, which authorized the insertion
of a lien to cover water charges.
Number of allotments, or parts of allotments sold, 310.
556 miles of canals and laterals, and 44 miles of drainage canals have
been constructed.
Construction cost to June 30, 1917, is $486,838.46.
Operation and maintenance cost to June 30, 1917. $212,774.33.
Irrigable lands within the Wapato unit may be divided into four classes.
1. Owned by Indians under trust patents in which repayment for water
charges may be made from their share of tribal or other funds, or (the irriga-
tion charges will constitute a lien against their land). .\ct of 1916.
2. Patented in fee to Indians prior to the act of May 18. 1916, which
places the land in the same class as that owned by whites, as shown in Class 3.
3. Owned by whites and purchased prior to May 18, 1916, for which ar-
rangements for repayment of irrigation charges is to be made in accordance
with the provisions of the act of that date.
4. Patented in fee since May 18, 1916, which patents include a lien for the
irrigation charges.
STORAGE WATER
The Reclamation service has built or has in process of construction storage
reservoirs with capacity as follows :
Kachess, 210,000 acre feet, completed.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 551
Keechelus, 152,000 acre feet, 90% completed.
Bumping Lake, 34,000 acre feet, completed.
Cle Elum, 25,000 acre feet, temporary crib dam.
Clear Creek, 1,700 acre feet, completed.
Tieton, 185,000 acre feet, 15% completed.
Future plans contemplate the construction of a permanent dam at Lake
Cle Elum, making a reservoir of 496,000 acre feet capacity, and possibly one at
Pleasant Valley on the American River with a capacity of 50,000 acre feet, so
that the maximum ultimate storage development may reach approximately
1,126,000 acre feet. The Reclamation service has also completed, or has well
under way, the construction of canals and distributing systems of the Tieton
unit covering 34,000 acres, the Sunnyside unit covering 109,000 acres, and
future plans contemplate the construction of Kittitas unit to cover 82,000
acres, the High Line unit, 150,000 acres, and the Benton unit, 100,000 acre.s.
Final location may change considerably the relative and total area under units
yet to be built.
The Wapato, or Reservation unit, by reason of its topography and other
natural advantages, can be placed under cultivation more quickly and at less
expense than any other unit of the project, and its completion is logically the
next step in the general project plan.
The storage now developed by the Reclamation service is insufficient to
meet the full requirements of the Wapato unit, the Reclamation units when
completed, and of those canals which have purchased water under the Warren
act (36 Stats. 925).
Estimates of cost of storage and of division, distribution and drainage
have been made, based on present prices for labor and materials. Both labor
and material markets are very unstable on account of war conditions, and it is
understood that the amount to be reimbursed shall be the actual cost of con-
struction.
Engineers of the Indian service estimate that the average cost per acre for
diversion, drainage and distribution system will be $35.00 (an increase of $10.00
per acre on account of present prices for labor and materials). It is understood
that the actual cost of this part of the work will be assessed against every acre
of irrigable land under the completed Wapato unit. Engineers of the Reclama-
tion service estimate that it will cost $5.40 per acre foot for a perpetual right
to the use of water to be furnished annually to the Wapato unit, in addition to
the 720 cubic second feet provided by the act of August 1, 1914. This supply
will consist of combined storage and natural flow, it being understood that the
proportion of natural and impounded vk^aters will vary from season to season,
and will accord with the proportions of the elements of such supply for other
units and contractors under Sections 2 and 3 of the Warren act of Yakima
project. In the final determination of the cost of the additional water supply
the natural flow element shall be a free element reducing the average combined
acre foot cost. Such water supply costs will be charged against all irrigable
lands within the Wapato unit, except the forty acres of each allotment to which
is apportioned water free of storage charges from the aforesaid 720 cubic feet
per second.
552 HISTORY OF YAKLMA VALLEY
From the same publication we derive a valuable summary of the kinds of
crops and area devoted to each, at the present time.
PRINCIPAL CROPS
The reservation lands are adapted to almost any crop grown in the tem-
perate zone. The principal products are alfalfa, potatoes, sugar beets, grains
of all kinds, beans, peas, watermelons, canteloupes, hops, onions, garden truck,
clover hay and clover seed, garden vegetable seed and livestock.
The dairying industry, due to the splendid crops of alfalfa, corn and other
feed products has grown to large proportions. The dairymen are rapidly
building up herds of first grade milk producing stock and the industry is prov-
ing highly profitable to those engaged in it. The development of the dairying
industry has been such that the largest butter, cheese and milk condensing plant
in central Washington has been built in Toppenish under the direction and own-
ership of the Mutual Creamery Company.
SUG.\R BEETS
The sugar beet industry inaugurated two years ago has already grown to
large proportions. The reservation lands are singularly adapted to this prod-
uct. Crops averaging well over twenty tons to the acre were common for the
season of 1917, and the average for the district according to the investigations
of experts was the largest for the entire United States. For the current year
approximately 3,000 acres of reservation lands have been planted to sugar
beets.
POT.\TOES
The Yakima Indian Reservation is known as "The Home of the Great Big
Baked Potato." The Northern Pacific dining car service, until war conditions
ruled the Big Baked Potato of? their menus, obtained a large part of its supply
of that popular table delicacy from the Reservation lands. The potato acreage
this year is already in excess of 3,000 acres. Yields of the tubers vary from
eight tons to twelve tons per acre.
OTHER CROPS
Alfalfa hay still claims the largest acreage on the reservation lands, the
crops averaging five tons to the acre. Three cuttings are made each year with
a valuable pasture asset left for sheep and cattle in the late Fall.
Under pressure of war conditions there has been a large increase in plant-
ings of wheat, oats, corn and barley. All of these grains yield remarkably well
and have proven a great source of profit to the growers.
A complete crop census of the Reservation prepared by the United States
Indian service for the years of 1916, 1917 and 1918 will be found in the accom-
panying tabulation.
HISTORY OF YAKLMA VALLEY 553
YAKIMA INDIAN RESERVATION, YAKIMA, WASHINGTON, CENSUS OF CROPS, ETC.,
1916, 1917, 1918
1916 1917 1918
Name of Crop, etc. Acres. Acres. Acres.
Alfalfa (old) 20,549 20,238 19,946
Alfalfa (new) 743 2,213 2,992
Alfalfa, seeded with Grain 4,650 4,333 5,611
Bearing Orchard —
(Clean) 1,083 1,194 855
(In Alfalfa) 1,279 1,408 1,979
(In Grain) 151 253 144
(Other Crops) 140 94 164
Young Orchard —
(Clean Cultivation) 380 108 51
(In Alfalfa) 109 201 30
(In Grain) 178 186 108
(Other Crops) 182 98 53
Clover 1,471 1,347 1,068
Pasture 1,692 2,396 2,582
Barlev 1,056 1,955 2,291
Wheat 3,864 8,724 13,386
Oats 1,428 1,324 1,163
Corn 1,961 2,569 2,347
Potatoes 2,321 }>j72 3,626
Beans 475 313
Peas — - 57! 2
Timothy 1,290 738 385
Rye 52 30 54
Cantaloupes 1 166
I 1,163 445
Watermelons J 325
Hops 47 51 51
Onions 142 307 225
Truck 768 637 405
Nursery 220 192 105
Sugar Beets — - 1.552 2,843
Miscellaneous Crops 1,204 830 1,211
Total Acres 48,123 57,707 64,481
554 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Livestock — No. No. Nio.
Horses 3,440 4,115 4,463
Milk Cows 2,032 2,376 2,547
Steers 1,137 3M 469
Other Cattle 3,671 4,103 4,028
Hogs 4,737 3,303 4,983
Sheep 9,910 7,999 8,745
Poultry 35,323 36,8r>4 36,701
Silos - 20 32 48
Respectfully submitted,
L. M. Holt,
Superintendent of Irrigation.
The present population of the Reservation is about three thousand of fidl
or part Indian blood. It is believed by many close observers of both races that
the gradual absorption of the Indians by the whites through marriages is only
a question of time. Already, we are told, one-half of the so-called Indian pop-
ulation is of mixed blood. At nearly every one of the townsites the Indians
are large owners and in many cases have wealth and culture which put them
on a par with their white neighbors. The townsites have been largely on lands
owned by Indian or half-breed women and girls. In most instances these
women have become well educated and cultivated and point the way to a pro-
cess of evolution by which the "Indian Problem," so far as Yakima is con-
cerned, seems in a fair way to solve itself.
We are told by Mr. Samuel McCaw of Wapato and Mr. Frank Olney of
Toppenish that a good many of the Indians are "making good" in farming or
other lines of enterprise.
Yet it is true that the majority are leasing, not working their lands. These
lands command so high a rental as to make a good income for the owners. This
condition offers a great temptation to the owners to draw revenues from rent-
ing and thus live in idleness.
At the best, even with the encouraging improvement of the past few years
most of the natives, even of the mixed blood, are improvident and desultory in
their habits, and easily open to the seductions of intemperance and unchastity.
And, even with the general good tone among the white residents, there are
always some who will encourage these weaknesses, with the ulterior aim of
gratifying their own lecherous natures or of beating the Indians out of their
property. The Indian lands are in great demand and rentals run from $3 or
$4 to $12 or $15 per acre for the season, according to location and quality. The
Japanese gardeners, who are past masters in intensive production, as well as in
ability in making good bargains, pay the highest rent, but they secure the best
land and make the largest net profits. They pay as high as $15 an acre, some-
times even higher for choice locations. They raise cantaloupes, melons, berries
and high-class "truck," of which there are almost incredible quantities produced.
The whites make no effort to compete with the skillful Japs in those lines,
and devote themselves generally to wheat anil hay land, for which they pay
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 555
from $4.00 to $8.00 an acre. The output and value of products from the four
stations of Toppenish, Mabton, Alfalfa, and Wapato, for recent seasons are
as follows:
Shipments from the Reservation each year amount to about 8,000 cars,
including hay, grain, melons, potatoes, fruit, livestock, dairy products, nursery
stock, etc., all products of the soil.
Engineer L. JM. Holt, superintendent of Irrigation L'^nited States Indian
Service on the Yakima Reservation, reports as follows:
"The estimated value of crops, made in July, 1915, was $30.00 per acre,
but this estimate I have recently revised owing to the fact that prices have been
much higher than I estimated in July. My revised figures are $38.00 per acre.
If the total area irrigated by the government ditches and slough ditches arc
based on that figure, the total value of the crops produced on the Wapato
project is $1,599,112. If the project had been completed the crops on the
120,000 acres would have had a value of $4,560,000, or more than sufficient to
pay for the distribution system and necessary storage in one year, and practi-
cally equal to one-half the value of crops produced in the entire Yakima Valley."
Of interest in connection with the products of the region is an extract
from the Toppenish "Review" of November 13, 1918:
"The Yakima Valley Potato Growers Association will market the sea-
son's crop of spuds from 3,000 acres of land and totaling an output of 1,250
cars and more through the firm of Denny & Company, distributors, of Chicago.
The first announcement of the big deal was made in 'The Review' last week, since
which time an agreement has been made between the company and the growers
which makes Toppenish the headquarters for handling the pool, which includes
about seventy-five per cent, of the valley potato crop.
"The growers will be represented throughout the transaction by Hans
Benz, head of the Benz Brothers Corporation, and a recognized authority in the
spud game, both from a growing and selling standpoint. Denny & Company,
the marketing end of the deal, have their headquarters at Chicago, but their
marketing facilities are almost as wide as the country. They reach into Cali-
fornia and Texas and cover the entire Mississippi Valley.
"It is the purpose of the fompany to sell the valley spuds strictly on grades,
including firsts, seconds, and a special brand of 'Yakima Bakers,' such as in pre-
war days were featured on N. P. menu cards.
"Those on the inside believe the arrangement will solve the potato prob-
lem for the season, and insure the growers an average of $40.00 for their crop.
There is an admitted shortage of potatoes throughout the country and the val-
ley surplus is regarded as the best shipping spud obtainable. They will be fed
to the market as conditions warrant and no risk of rushing the crop too rapidly
will be taken. The distributors have ample storage facilities in the west as also
in the middle east. They can care for several hundred car loads for an in-
definite period in that manner if necessary.
"The deal completed this week is the outcome of negotiations extending
over a lengthy period and is regarded as satisfactory by all interested."
556 HISTORY t)F YAKIMA VALLEY
Tlie most interesting object lesson of the gradual assumption by the In-
dians of business enterprises is found in the American State Bank at Wapato.
of which V. A. Olney is president and Samuel McCaw is cashier. The personnel
of this bank, both stockholders and officers, is entirely Indian. Their business,
however, is not confined to the red race. They conduct a high-class busines.s
with all comers, and many of their depositors and borrowers are white men.
A full account of this bank is given in Leslie's magazine of a recent date. Mr.
McCaw was brought up among wild Indians on the Ahtanum, but when a boy
of ten attracted the favorable attention of some one who knew of the Govern-
ment Indian School at Forest Grove. Oregon. There he secured an elementary
education. Then the ambitious young boy went east where he completed an
academic and then a college course at Whittier College, Indiana. Following
that he was in a banking house in Chicago for five years, after which he re-
turned to his old home and was for twenty-three years the cashier of the Yakima
National Bank at Yakima. In 1917 he entered upon the enterprise of banking
at Wapato. The results thus far have been such as to amply justify the ven-
ture. His associates in the enterprise are several members of the Olney family
on the Reservation, descendants of Nathan Olney, a former Indian agent in Ore-
gon and one of the first settlers on the Ahtanum.
As another illustration of the transition in the lives and outlook of the
Indians we incorporate letters from Chief Stwire Waters and Nealy Olney as a
result of a journey to attend the meeting of the Federation of North American
Indians at Washington City.
Writing under date of December 7th, Chief Waters says:
"Washington, D. C, December 7, 1911.
"Mr. Lancaster Spencer, Toppenish, Washington:
"Dear Sir: This afternoon's meeting was with thirty-four different tribes
of Indians in the hall, and all are joined in brotherhood of the North American
Indians' national organization. Our old Owhi and Sluskin raised up and voted
for our Indian friendship of brotherhood and good citizenship among its mem-
bers and citizens, and I am very glad for our two old men that signed. I signed
and so did Mrs. E. Waters and another Cherokee Indian woman, so two ladies
have signed, Mrs. Waters and that Cherokee Indian woman, in our conference
or council, and I say hurrah, hurrah, hurrah, for our Indian constitution that
is going to be one, one all United States North American Indians. Thirty-
four different tribes of Indians are signing tomorrow. We will open again our
own Indian council or meeting at eleven o'clock in the morning until we all
sign. Some more Indians are going to be here, then we will all go up to the
capitol office some time next week. Our new chairman is a Sioux Indian. John
J. Poherty. The next mail shall be citizens.
"Yours truly.
"Stwire G. W.\ters."
HISTORY OI' YAKIMA VALLEY 557
The letter of Mr. Olney, written December 8th, is as follows:
"Washington, D. C, December 8, 191 L
"Mr. Lancaster Spencer, Toppenish, Washington:
"Dear Friend : We are all well. We have organized the National Brother-
hood of North American Indians, with Richard C. Adams as sachem or presi-
dent, and the sub-chiefs of the local ones were chosen. Every Indian here is
well pleased with this organization as it means a great deal for the Indians if
we get properly organized and work properly together. I have no doubt that
we will succeed in our organization.
"There are about fifty or more Indians here representing nearly every state
west of the Mississippi River. Every old Indian and young are surely greatly
pleased with the conditions they found here. Mr. Adams is a very fine fellow,
and I certainly believe he will do something for us.
"This means a great deal to us Indians. It means good hard work so that
we can succeed in trying to get what is due us and have equal rights with our
brother, the white man, so let us all work together and help each other in the
best manner we know how. Be true and faithful one to another.
"Mr. Spencer, I inclose you a few clippings from newspapers. Yesterday
they took our pictures.
"Well, I will close with best wishes to all and success for our people and
the cause we are working for.
Your friend,
"Nealy Olney."
As a general view of many interesting and important features in regard to
the history, organization, and officers of the Reservation at one of the recent
stages of time, we are closing this chapter with a valuable extract from an
article by Superintendent S. A. M. Young, which appeared in a special number
of the Wapato "Independent" on December 15, 1911. Through the kindness of
Mr. William \erran, proprietor of the paper, we have the privilege of using
this fine article.
"There is a touch of romance and the flavor of old times in the words
Fort Simcoe and Yakima. The older Indians and the old settlers among the
whites delight in telling about the stirring times in the fifties and early sixties,
when the treaty was being made, the fort established and the reservation set
aside as a home for the confederated tribe of Yakima Indians. The older In-
dians seldom attend a council without digressing in their speeches and bringing
in a reference to the treaty and Governor Isaac I. Stevens, who was also super-
intendent of Indian Affairs for the territory of Washington. This treaty was
made June 9, 1855, and ratified March 8, 1859. Official matters often moved
slowly in those days, as they sometimes do even now, but when it is remembered
that mail tlien came only once a year, by way of The Dalles, and that railroads
and telegraph lines had not yet penetrated the western wilds, there should be
no surprise that things moved slowly.
558 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \'ALLEY
"Even today the old block house, erected as a protection against hostile
Indians, still stands, and tourists eagerly dig bullets out of the old timbers and
carry them off as mementoes of the earlier times. It is true some people of
irreverent minds assert that these bullets find their way into the old block house
from modern firearms in the hands of agency employes, but such ideas may be
passed over as unworthy and almost sacreligious.
"In the beautiful grove at the fort one may still see in the street in front
of the agent's residence, the old oak tree formerly used as a whipping post by
Father Wilbur, the famous agent of early times, in cases where his dusky
wards bcame disobedient ; but this tree should not be taken as a symbol of early
brutality. While no agent since has wielded so strong an arm, none has had
so big a heart nor been quite so well loved by the Indians. Father Wilbur had
been a Bowery policeman, was converted and came west as a missionary. The
older Indians still point out the place at the brow of Toppenish ridge in a little
grove where the soldiers halted in their retreat from the Indians and buried an
old brass cannon to prevent its falling into the hands of the enemy, and the\
often show us where a party of soldiers was surprised and massacred by the
Indians. Moreover, no agency or school employe, after coming to the fort is
quite satisfied until he has visited the old battle ground by Toppenish Creek
and by diligent search found some Indian arrow heads.
"A vestige of the old grist mill still stands on Simcoe Creek in the Sinicoe
Valley, and the ruins of the old sawmill at the edge of the forest, on the road to
Goldendale, tell of worthy plans once made and abandoned through official mis-
understanding of local needs.
"The parade ground, once resounding to the tramp of soldiers' feet, is no.v
surrounded by school and agency buildings, all painted pure white and present-
ing a very inviting and pleasing appearance. The parade grounds themselves
are now given up to an orchard and help supply the Indian pupils at the school
with our famous Yakima fruit.
"The older agency buildings are of colonial style, having fireplaces in every
room and were erected at great cost. Tradition has it that the agent's resi-
dencedence was framed in Maine, shipped to The Dalles by way of Cape Honi
and carried over the mountains by pack mules. The total cost is said to have
been $60,000, which figures are often increased to $65,000 by enthusiastic amateur
historians. This building is still in excellent repair, though its quaint little dia-
mond-shaped window panes are irridescent with age. Other buildings there were
barracks and commissaries, making picturesque ruins, but the present agent, hav-
ing more respect for utility and progress than for the spirit of days gone by, has
either torn them down or remodeled them into modern and useful structures.
"The Indian school at the fort is always of great interest to visitors. This
school, fondly called by the Indians 'Mool Mool,' is one of the oldest in the
service, having been established about 1860. At present it has a capacity of six-
ty-four girls and sixty-seven boys, and is generally filled to the limit in spite
of the much desired drift of Indian children of late years into the public white
schools, much desired since in the direction of complete civilization.
"In the Fort Simcoe school Indian pupils are clothed, fed and given frve
medical attention at go\ernment expense. The instruction is very practical : tht
HISTORY OF YAKniA VALLEY 559
time is divided equally between ordinary schoolroom work and industrial work,
half of each day being devoted to each. Boys are given instruction in general
farm work, including simple carpentering and blacksmithing, and girls in the
ordinary domestic arts, such as sewing, cooking, laundry work, etc. Many of
our best and most progressive Indians, even many of the older ones, have been
educated, and practically educated, here. The fact that the Yakima Indians
are among the most intelligent and progressive Indians in the United States
is largely due to the efficiency of this school.
"Perhaps there is no tribe of Indians in the United States who give less
trouble to their agent and are more law-abiding than are the Yakimas. Not
only are they self-supporting, but, relatively speaking, they are industrious,
honest and frugal. The majority are affiliated with one church or another, and
many are truly rehgious. There are represented the Methodist, Catholic, Shaker
and Pom Pom denominations, in the order of their numerical importance. The
latter represents the old-time Indian religion, the Great Spirit being wor-
shipped, though not in a way which might be called orthodox.
"There is an Indian court and a police system in connection with the
agency, there being three judges and five policemen. No doubt the procedure
or practice in this court would not meet the approval of white men learned in
the law ; but it is, nevertheless, often a real help to the agent, who approves or
disapproves the findings in each case; and the net result is in the direction of
good order and justice. In dignity the court lacks nothing, neither does it lack
in the moral support, respect and co-operation of the tribe."
Some of Mr. Young's article has become outdated, it having been written
in 1911, but the figures given by him at that time have historic interest and
hence we include additional portions :
"Practically all the good farming land on the reservation has been, or soon
will be, allotted to the Indians. After the allotments now being made have been
completed the reservation will probably be formally thrown open to settlement;
but there will practically be no land of any value to secure, at least for a number
of years, after which period some of the timbered lands mentioned probably will
be placed on the market.
"The official area of the entire Reservation is 1,145,069.22 acres. This area
is proportioned appro.ximately as follows :
Acres.
"Agricultural lands 300,000
Timber lands 535,000
Grazing lands, not timbered 210,000
Arid lands 100,000
"In the earlier times little was dreamed of the future value of these lands.
Even in the eighties our richest alfalfa lands were considered to be of only nom-
inal value.
"To date 3,169 allotments have been made and approved, the first allotments
having been made in 1892, followed by others from time to time. Special Allotting
Agent M. F. Nourse is now engaged on a final allotment. It is estimated that a
thousand allotments will be included in the group now being made. The old allot-
560 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
merits in general comprise eighty acres of farming land or 160 acres of grazing
land. At present forty acres of irrigable land, eighty acres of ordinary agricul-
tural land or 160 acres of grazing land are the quantities being allotted. The ap-
proximate area of agricultural lands allotted and approved to date is 200,000
acres ; of grazing lands 97.000 acres : the area covered being in round numbers,
297,000 acres. To this will be added about 80,000 acres covered by the present
allotment,'^.
"The following figures concerning irrigation should be of interest :
Acres.
"Approximate area of irrigable land on Reservation 60,200
"The latter area is distributed as follows :
"Irrigated from Yakima River and sloughs 50,000
Irrigated from Ahtanum Creek 4,600
Irrigated from Satus Creek 1,600
Irrigated from Simcoe Creek 2,000
Irrigated from Toppenish Creek 2,000
"In the lower valley an area of 30,000 acres or more was becoming practi-
cally worthless because of seepage water from higher lands, which, on coming
to the surface, brought up a deposit of alkali. A system of drainage ditches, under
the direction of Mr. J. W. Martin, superintendent of irrigation, is now being-
constructed with remarkable results. All of this area will be reclaimed and made
valuable.
"The entire Wapato project covers about 180,000 acres of irrigable land
and extends as far south as Mabton. What may be called the restricted Wap-
ato project, which extends approximately to the Toppenish Creek on the south,
contains about 130,000 acres.
"Approximately 20,000 acres of land is owned by whites under the Wapato
project. There have been 290 land sales to date, and forty-five patents in fee
have been issued to Indians, most of the land covered by the latter having
been sold. The greater number of sales have been under the Wapato project
About 27,000 acres of land is being leased under the Wapato project and about
3,000 acres is being irrigated by Indians.
"In all, perhaps 225 Indians are doing more or less farming. Chiefly they
raise small grains in the western portion of the valley and alfalfa in the eastern
portion. The Government threshing machine the past season threshed 23,000
bushels of small grain for Indians on the western portion of the Reservation
alone. In all they own perhaps 2,500 range horses or cayuses, in addition to
the horses they keep at home for driving and working. The latter are in gen-
eral good animals. A few Indians have large numbers of sheep, as many as
four or five thousand at most, and some have large herds of cattle, the maxi-
mum number being about 500 head. Probably as many as forty Indians own
small herds of cattle ranging in numbers up to forty or fifty head. Many In-
dians raise gardens and keep hogs and chickens. .A large number make their
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 561
■living by day labor, freigbting or team work. No rations are issued on this
Reservation except an insignificant quantity to a few old and infirm Indians.
The entire cost of rations for the past year would not exceed $20.
"The leasing system on the Reservation is of interest to many. Depart-
mental regulations have of late become very strict relative to the leasing of
Indian land and such leasing is more difficult than formerly. No able-bodied
male Indian may lease more than forty acres of his allotment unless it is shown
that he is actually farming other land. In general it is also expected that lands
belonging to women and children shall, if possible, be farmed by male relatives.
At present no leasing of raw land is permitted under the Wapato project on ac-
count of insufficient water, though the Indian himself is permitted to improve
and water such lands if he desires. Leases for cash only can not be drawn for
a longer period than two years on farming and one year on grazing land. Per-
manent improvements amounting in value to at least $200 per year, are re-
quired for each additional year added to a lease, but no lease can be drawn for
a longer period than five years. Rentals received, counted in cash, range from
four dollars to nine dollars an acre per annum. The following is a list of some
of the improvements, etc., required in leases in addition to the clearing and
leveling of lands, the seeding of same to alfalfa being frequently required.
"The party of the second part further agrees to erect upon the land cov-
ered by this lease a frame house of three rooms, worth not less than $400, each
room to be 14 x 14 feet, ceiled throughout with beaded ceiling five-eighth by
four inches, with walls eight feet from floor to ceiling; all lumber used in the
construction of said house to be of good No. 1 pine or fir, or equal. Other
materials and specifications to be as follows : Oregon flooring 1x4 inches ; five
doors, 2 feet 6 inches by 6 feet 6 inches by Ij^ inches; six windows, four lights,
12x14 inches, the sash to be 1^ inches; Star A Star shingles; rustic siding;
two brick flues, 17 x 21 inches; the house to be painted with two coats of best
lead and oil : the roof to be one-half pitch. The house to be fully corniced.
"The party of the second part further agrees to fence the land with a
heavy galvanized barbed wire fence of not less than four wires, using one of
the following named brands of wire: American Glydden, Elwood Glydden, or
Waukegan, four point, with good cedar posts well set, one rod apart, the cross
section of the small ends of said posts to contain each not less than twenty
square inches, said fence to cost not less than $120 for each mile of fence.
"All the above improvements to be placed upon the leased premises prior
to expiration of the third year of the term of this lease and to be thereon at
the expiration of the lease term.
"The party of the second part further agrees to the provision 'That the
Secretary of the Interior may terminate this lease upon two months' notice prior
to April 15th of any year.'
"The party of the second part further agrees that he will keep the leased
land free from willows and other wild shrubbery ; that he will clean and keep in
proper repair all of lessor's ditches upon the leased tract ; that he will maintain
in good order all of lessor's headgates, checks, drops, culverts, flumes and other
(36)
562 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
structures maintained for the conveyance and control of the water; that he
will keep in a safe condition for use all lessor's bridges across the canals or
laterals; that he will make beneficial use of all water appurtenant to said land;
that he will guard against an excessive use of water or the swamping of land
through leakage or seepage; that he will observe all rules of the authorities
having control of the water system; that he will not molest or destroy, or in
any way interfere with, the headgates or irrigation canals on the Reservation,
or on the land of any Indian allottee, or of any other lessee or purchaser of In-
dian land, unless under the direction or orders of the officials having control of
the irrigation system, and will pay a'l proper charges for repairs or maintenance
which may be assessed by the representatives of the Department of the Interior,
the water company or the water users' association having control of the irriga-
tion, in addition to the payment of rental for the land.
"Only such flood water can be assured the lessee as can conveniently be
conveyed to the leased land by the present system when such flood water is avail-
able in the Yakima River to about July 1st.
"The selling of Indian lands is also of general interest. Noncompetent
Indians who are incapacitated by reason of age or incurable disease are allowed
to sell portions of their allotments, or if necessarj^ their entire allotments, in
order to secure funds for the necessities of life. It is also possible for non-
competent Indians not incapacitated to sell portions of their allotments in order
to secure funds to improve lands retained. This is practiced at the Yakima
Agency to a very limited extent, however, as in general results are not satisfac-
tory.
"In general fewer restrictions are placed upon the sale of inherited Indian
lands, but in this case also it must be shown to the satisfaction of the depart-
ment that the funds to be so derived are necessary for the support of the heirs,
or that they will be used for the improvement of other lands. Reservation
lands vary much in quality. Prices received range from a few dollars to $150
an acre for improved lands. All funds received from the sale of Indian lands,
which are called trust funds, are placed in approved depositaries which have
given bonds for their safe keeping, and may not be paid out without authority
from the Indian Office and the approval of the superintendent in charge of the
reservation. The Indian can not draw out such funds at will, and in case he
incurs debts without securing previous authority he is not at liberty to pay the
same from his trust funds. A departmental regulation likewise prohibits the
superintendent from recognizing such debts."
These extracts from Superintendent Young's article give a conception of
the state of affairs on the Reservation in 1911. It may be added in conclusion that
the developments since that date have been in general highly encouraging. The
Reservation has certainly had a most interesting past, and at the date of publi-
cation of this history it promises much for the future.
PART III
COUNTY DR-ISION AND DEVELOPMENT OF THE TWO
YOUNGER COUNTIES
CHAPTER I
BEGINNINGS IN THE KITTITAS VALLEY
FIRST SETTLERS — WHEELER BLOCK-HOUSE — BEGINNINGS OF IMPROVEMENTS
ROADS AND BRIDGES — IRRIGATION MILLS — DEVELOPMENT OF MINERAL RE-
SOURCES— COAL — BEGINNINGS OF STOCKRAISING AND FARMING CORRESPOND-
ENCE FROM THE "standard" "tENDERFOOt" TAKES A TRIP — TOWN AND
COUNTY — LETTER FROM SWAUK — HISTORY OF KITTITAS VALLEY, BY THE
SIXTH GRADE, EDISON SCHOOL, ELLENSBURG
We have endeavored in the two preceding parts of this work to portray
the progress of the Yakima Valley as a whole. As indicated in the preface we
deem the preservation of the unity of the valley — geographically, socially and
industrially — as the best manner of exhibiting its history. From the lakes at
the head of the river to its entrance into the Columbia, there is a natural unity,
even in the midst of great diversity. Settlement and reclamation did not halt or
change for any artificial boundaries, even after county lines were drawn.
Yet while that essential unity was a historical fact which should be recog-
nized, it was inevitable that the immense area which for a number of years was
a political unit under the name of Yakima County should be subdivided. It
was too large to be a permanent county. The chief question was as to where
the lines should be drawn providing for one or more separate new counties.
County division questions, like county seat questions, seem usually to draw
out and display the more small and selfish and mercenary side of the popula-
tion. In not many cases does the observer of such contests, or the historian in
his investigation of the current press, find the larger and further vision which
would seek the greatest good of the whole, regardless of local and personal
gain. Yet, in spite of what may seem in the retrospect mean and selfish, the
historian must be tolerant of the motives of the builders in their policies and
actions in this class of questions. It is not possible for the foundation-makers
of a new region to disregard these matters of local advantage involved in taxa-
tion, public buildings, roads, school districts, courts, public offices, and all the
other considerations depending upon the location of the county seat or of
county boundaries. In the retrospect a policy may seem very petty, which at
the time of action was very vital. It is much the same with a community as
with a family. It is inevitable that at some time the children leave the paternal
home and establish homes of their own, but just when and how — there's the
pinch — and in the settlement of those questions the difi^erences of the family
life often arise.
As we observe the topography of the Yakima Valley it is clear that when a
division of the county should take place the Kittitas Valley would almost cer-
563
564 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \'ALLEY
tainly become the first new political unit. Although a part of the great valley
it was separated from the central and lower parts by the extensive and rugged
Yakima, Umptanum, and Manashtash ridges. For a number of miles the river
makes its turbulent way through a ragged canyon not adapted to agriculture or
to any form of industry by which any considerable population would be sus-
tained. It would seem that from Indian times the Kittitas section, while in a
degree the resort of the same tribes which ranged through the middle and lower
parts of the Yakima Valley, had a certain separateness. It was a veritable In-
dian paradise in the Summer and Autumn. That it was well known to the
earliest white fur traders appears from the story by Alexander Ross of his
adventure in the "Eyakama," by which he evidently meant the Kittitas.
The first immigrant train to pass through the Kittitas was that of 1853, to
which David Longmire belonged, and of which we have given a full account
in the chapter on Immigration. During the same year the McClellan survey
was in progress. Two years later Charles Splawn passed through the Kittitas.
It was then entirely an Indian country except for the residence upon the Man-
ashtash, at what later became the Barnes place, of a Catholic priest. In 1855-
56, during the great Indian War, troops of white soldiers passed through, and
there was much movement of Indian warriors in each direction. According to
A. J. Splawn, as quoted in the History of Central Washington, a trading post
was located by Hald and Meigs of The Dalles in 1860 at the Manashtash Ford,
in order to supply the needs of the miners bound to the Similkameen. This
post was maintained for a few months only. Mr. Splawn himself was in the
Kittitas section in 1861 on the way to the mines with cattle. He gives a pic-
turesque account of it in these words :
"It was on the fourth day out that we came to the beautiful Kittitas Val-
ley. This valley, as it looked that day to me, a boy of sixteen, was the loveliest
spot I had ever seen. To the west stood the great Cascade Range ; to the
north rose the snow-capped peaks of the Peshastin to guard the beautiful val-
ley below, where the Yakima River wound its way full-length, while from the
mountains on the north flowed numerous small streams, and the whole plain
was covered with a thick coat of grass. Sage hens and prairie chickens and
jack rabbits were on all sides. The song birds were singing a sweet lullaby to the
departing day and the howl of the coyote was borne on the evening breeze. As
we gazed on this lovely sight, I wondered how long it would be before the
smoke would be curling from pioneer homes, for there the settler would find
a paradise."
FIRST SETTLERS
Into this paradise which Mr. Splawn so picturesquely describes it must
needs be that settlers would make their way. The valley was filled with In-
dians, and the great war of the decade of the fifties was not so remote that the
first settlers felt entirely safe. It does not appear, however, that there ever
was any real Indian trouble in the Kittitas. The nearest to a genuine Indian
scare occurred in 1878, when the Bannock War and the Perkins murders and
the somewhat enigmatical movements of Chief Moses caused anxiety and led
even to the building of stockades at sundry places.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 565
It appears that at the time of the coming of the first settlers there were two
bands of Indians, one under Chief Shushuskin and the other under Chief Alex.
Much is said with respect and admiration about Shushuskin by the early set-
tlers. It appears that he was a Yakima Indian, but that he had spent some time
on the Sound. He is said to have brought with him a pony, tools, and a plow
from Nisqually. He also brought with him horses, cows and pigs. His place
was on what became the John Fogarty place about seven miles northeast of
Ellensburg.
It is commonly said by the old timers that Shushuskin raised the first gar-
den stuff in the valley. He was a steadfast friend of the whites and acted as a
go-between in case of danger or misunderstanding with the Indians. It is
said that on one occasion he was very roughly handled by his own people in
consequence of his friendliness with the invaders. There seems some differ-
ence of opinion as to the final end of this kindly native chief, but the excellent
authority of Mr. Austin Mires is quoted to the effect that Shushuskin was
buried at a point a little below the Tjossem Mill.
Into the idyllic beauty and quietness of the Kittitas Valley as it was in the
middle of the decade of the sixties began to come the land hunters, bound for
homes.
The first entrance into the valley with a view to location, occurred in 1865,
and the party consisted of John Roselle with his family and his son-in-law,
William Harrington. This initial party had come from the Moxee, where they
had arrived a short time before. Their first Winter in Kittitas was one of
suff'ering from cold and hunger. Hearing of their distress, F. M. Thorp, that
"Greatheart"' of the early settlers, sent Andrew Gervais to conduct the Roselle
party to Moxee. They remained in the vicinity of what became the city of
Yakima.
In 1867 the first real settlement was made. This was effected by Frederick
Ludi and John Goller. These advance guards of settlement had started for
Puget Sound across the Cascade Mountains, but as they descended the Umpta-
num slopes toward the Kittitas they were enamoured of the manifold attractions
of the valley and became the first permanent settlers. Goller became generally
known as "Dutch John." There seems to have been a "stray" white man,
William Wilson, not exactly a settler, living among the Indians at the time of
the arrival of Ludi and Goller. From him Wilson Creek, flowing through
Ellensburg, derived its name. Wilson does not seem to have had a very good
name, even though a very beautiful little stream became his namesake, and he
subsequently was drowned in Snake River while trying to run off some other
man's horses.
Ludi and Goller first located on Manashtash Creek near its entrance into
the Yakima. But being somewhat discouraged by the extreme cold and heavy
snowfall of their first Winter they moved in the next year and located on what
is now the site of Ellensburg. Ludi raised a garden in 1868 and is doubtless
entitled to the distinction of pioneer horticulturist in the Kittitas. Goller re-
moved to Wenatchee. He was among the first settlers at that point. Later he
became a resident of the Colville Reservation. There he now lives at the age.
so he declares, of 105 years. An extended account of him has recently ap-
566 HISTORY OF YAKLMA VALLEY
peared in the "Spokesman-Review." Residents of Ellensburg have stated to the
author that, though very old, "Dutch John" can hardly have passed the century
mark.
The year 1868 marked the first incoming of families. On June 16th of
that year Tillman Houser came across the Cascade Mountains by the SnoquaL
mie Pass from Renton near Seattle and took a preemption claim on Coleman
Creek. In the Autumn of that year he returned to Renton and brought back
with him a small band of cattle. Another return trip and back again to his
place with his wife and children, and the first family of the Kittitas was estab-
lished. We must, however, qualify that statement a little, for in between the
successive movements of Mr. Houser another family had become located. This
was the family consisting of Charles Splawn and wife. Mr. Splawn located a
place on Taneum Creek in August. Returning to his former home in Moxce
he brought back to the new home on the Taneum his wife, who antedated Mrs.
Houser by a few weeks and thus appears in history as the first white woman
in the Kittitas Valley. Mrs. Splawn was Dulcina Thorp, a member of the first
family on the Moxee. As noted earlier, the marriage of Charles Splawn and
Dulcina Thorp was the first matrimonial event in Yakima. The wedding oc-
curred at Fort Simcoe in 1863, Father Wilbur being the officiating authority.
A son was born in Moxee to the newly married couple at the close of that year,
but he died in infancy. There seems some difference of statement as to the
first birth in both Yakima and Kittitas. It has been stated that the son of
Charles Splawn, born in Moxee, was the first to be born in Yakima County.
We find, however, in the "Kittitas Standard" of March 21, 1885, the state-
ment that the birth of Rufus Clifford Thorp, son of F. M. Thorp, occurred
on April 3, 1862, also in Moxee. A daughter, Viola, was born to Mr. and Mrs.
Charles Splawn at their place on Taneum Creek in 1869. This is stated in the
History of Central Washington to have been the first birth of a white child in the
Kittitas. We are informed, however, by Mrs. William Taylor that the birth
of twins to Mrs. Martin Davern occurred in 1869 before that of Viola Splawn.
The Davems were making their way from the Sound across the mountains and
down the Yakima, and were camping under a thorn tree near the subsequent
location of Tjossem's Mill, when the twins arrived. One of the twins, Philena,
now Mrs. Phil Fitterer, lives in Ellensburg at the present time. There were three
children in the Houser family at the time of their arrival : Sarah, Harrison and
Clarence. Sarah became Mrs. Messerly and now lives at Wenatchee. Perniua
Houser was born at the place on Coleman Creek on December 17 . 1869. She
became the wife of William German in 1888. Mr. German subsequently ac-
quired the original Tillman Houser place and that is the family residence at the
present day. It would appear from this narration that the earliest births in
Kittitas County were of the twin daughters of the Daverns, then Viola Splawn,
and then Pernina Houser. Two other children, Alvy and Amelia, were born in
the Houser home. Alvy now lives in Yakima, and Amelia, now Mrs. C. C.
Churchill, lives in a beautiful home on Craig hill. Mrs. Charles Splawn died in
1870, and in 1873 Mr. Splawn married Melissa Thorp, sister of his first wife.
She is still living near the town of Thorp with her daughter, Mrs. Bruton.
In 1869 there was quite an influx of settlers into Kittitas. The most not-
able was that prince of pioneers, F. Mortimer Thorp of Moxee. He was a
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 567
true type of the restless, adventurous, aspiring frontiersman, who cannot be
content with fixed conditions, but must pull up stakes and start on just when he
has become fairly established. It is a noble breed of men, and America would
not have become America without that type. In the same year came Moses
Splawn and A. J. Splawn. Martin Davern, father of the twins of the previous
year, returned and located near the present Ellensburg. Charles B. Reed, later
one of the most prominent of the builders, located on Cooke Creek, but moved
soon to the Manashtash. Three bachelors, W. A. Bull, Thomas Haley and
Patrick Lynch, took claims east of the present Ellensburg. William Johnson,
sometimes called "Windy" Johnson, another bachelor, located on Wilson Creek.
George Gillespie took a place near Bull's claim. Matthias Becker, W. H.
Crockett, A. A. Bell, Fred Bennett, William Dennis, John Vaughn, George
Hull, S. R. Geddis, George and JefT Smith, W. H. Kiester, and John Schmidt
are mentioned by the old-timers as having come the same year of 1869. Jef¥
Smith drove the first wagon over the Snoqualmie Pass to Kittitas.
There seem to have been four special centers of settlement in those first
years. One was on Coleman and Cooke creeks at the foot of the hills on the
north side of the valley; another about six or eight miles northeast of Ellens-
burg in the heart of the valley ; a third southeast of Ellensburg in the settle-
ment known afterwards as Denmark ; and the fourth on the west side on the
Taneum and Manashtash creeks. Within a few years the settlers became quite
widely scattered, but those four localities seem to have been the special points
to work from. Early locators always reckoned on the two vital necessities of
wood and water. Very few looked forward to irrigation on a large scale but
most of them recognized the need of command of flowing streams by which
the individual farmers or small group of famers could provide their own prem-
ises with a sufficient water supply. Hence the first comers tried to find loca-
tions accessible to the creeks flowing from the north across the plain on the
east side, Reeser, Wilson, Naneum, Coleman, Cooke, Caribou, and Raske, or to
the Taneum and Manashtash on the west side, or upon the Yakima itself. At
the same time they endeavored to join to the advantage of water that of timber.
It has been stated to the author by Mr. Gerrit d' Ablaing that in a general way,
though of course with exceptions, the settlers from The Dalles or from Oregon
by way of that point made their locations on the east side of the valley, while
those on the west side were made mainly by people from the Sound or the East,
In 1870 and 1871 many of those destined to be the great builders of the
valley and of Ellensburg were added to the population. In 1870 came Charles
P. Cooke, a leader of thought and action in the early settlement of Yakima.
With him were his wife and four sons and two daughters. The family located
on the creek which received its name from them and only a short distance from
the Houser claim. Mrs. Cooke still lives on the place.
The first wedding in Kittitas occurred in 1872. That first pair was
Charles Coleman and Clara Cooke, daughter of C. P. Cooke. The wedding
occurred at the home of Matthias Becker and the officiating magistrate was
Probate Judge Charles Splawn.
The other daughter of Mr. Cooke, Eliza, became the wife of Henr)^
Schnebly and lives in Ellensburg at the present time. In 1871 D. J. Schnebly
came with his family, his sons Charles and Henry locating on Cooke Creek and
568 HISTORY OF YAKIMA X'ALLEY
engaging in the stock business. The Schnebly family was one of the most im-
portant and influential of all the builders of the valley. Mr. Schnebly was a
man of education and of literary attainments and became one of the great land-
marks in the newspaper history of central Washington. He was the founder
of the "Localizer" and for many years was a leader of thought in the valley.
Of his newspaper career we give views in other chapters. Mr. Schnebly
made a large place in the life of the community and his sons and daughters
worthily continued his influence. The sons Charles and Henry are leading
farmers, while the daughter Jean, Mrs. John B. Davidson, has been one of the
great influences for education, culture and public improvement in Ellensburg
and vicinity. For seven years city librarian, Mrs. Davidson very nearly created
that important agency for public improvement. Mary (Mrs. Fred Adams)
another daughter of Mr. Schnebly, lived for a number of years at Walla Walla and
then went with her family to San Diego, Califomia, where she died. The wife of
Mr. Schnebly was Margaretta Painter, a member of one of the leading pioneer
families, representatives of which have been well known in Ellensburg and
Walla Walla, as well as on the west side of the Cascades.
The year 1871 saw the arrival in the Kittitas of the man who beyond all
others may be called the father of Ellensburg. This was John Alden Shoudy.
From his wife, Mary Ellen Stewart of California, the metropolis of the Kittitas
received its name, and a considerable part of the town was laid out on land
belonging to Mr. Shoudy. He had come to the Pacific Coast from Illinois, a
veteran of the Civil War, and had become engaged in business with his broth-
er-in-law. Dexter Horton, one of the most prominent of Seattle's capitalists
and founder of one of the greatest banking houses of that city. In 1871 a
proposition developed in Seattle to make an improved road connection with the
Yakima country. As a representative of this movement, Mr. Shoudy went to
the valley in that year. The visit resulted in his permanent residence and in the
founding of the town. Of the details of his acquisition of A. J. Splawn's "Rob-
ber's Roost" store and the laying out of the claim which Mr. Splawn "threw in"
with the store, we shall speak in more detail in the chapter on Ellensburg.
Suffice it to say here that Mr. Shoudy became one of the leaders of the valley,
and as a representative to the legislature and a member of the constitutional
convention he bore an honorable part in the politics and laws of the rapidly
developing state of Washington.
Others of the most prominent of the residents of the valley, many of
whom are living now in Ellensburg or vicinity, came in 1870 or 1871 or 1872.
Of these we may name Mrs. Austin Mires (Mary L. Rowland), who came
with her mother and stepfather, H. H. Davies, to the Kittitas in 1871. A leader
in all the activities of the community, Mrs. Mires has also been a student of the
history of the section and she and her husband have accumulated a most valu-
able store of historical matter. Another of the honored families of the valley
was that of A. B. Whitson with his sons Edward and Albert, the former of
whom became one of the foremost early lawyers of Yakima and subsequently
one of the Federal judges of the Eastern District of the state. The Whitson
place was in the eastern section of the early settlements. In the same region
settled Mr. J. G. Olding with his family. The Oldings drove from Walla Walla
HISTORY OF YAKIMA \ALLEY 569
with ox-teams. Both Mr. and Mrs. Olding are still living. In 1870 came one of
the present residents of EUensburg, who, it is safe to say, has been more pumped
for historical information than any other man in EUensburg and to whom the au-
thor of this work is especially indebted. This is William (commonly known as
"Bill" to his admiring neighbors) Taylor. Mr. Taylor is a veritable treasury of in-
teresting incidents and reminiscences of the early days. He is a typical Oregonian
and came from the "Webfoot country" to the Kittitas as a boy. He worked
for the farmers on Coleman and Cooke creeks and hauled lumber for the first
building in EUensburg from the Damman and Tjossem Mill on Naneum Creek.
Mr. Taylor had many adventures with Indians all the way up to Moses himself,
whom he pronounces a great coward and by no means the picturesque hero that
some have portrayed him. He tells us that some of the structures for defense
built during the periods of Indian scares are still in existence. One of those
is the remains of a stockade on the Wheeler ranch, part only of which still
exists, and it is used for a barn. A fort was built on the Whitson ranch. A
stockade was also built in the town.
In a group of historical essays prepared by students of the Normal School
which Professor Smyser has been so kind as to place at our disposal we find
so readable and valuable an account of the Wheeler and Whitson settlements
in the valley and the stockades upon their places, that we incorporate it here.
It is the work of Birdie Clareta Smith, student of the Normal.
The Wheeler Block-House.
(By Birdie Clareta Smith.)
October 7, 1917, my sister and I went to see the old Wheeler block-house.
The Wheeler homestead is about seven miles from EUensburg and one mile
south of Kittitas.
Charles Wheeler and his wife crossed the plains in 1850, going to Yelm
Prairie, where they lived for seventeen years. In 1869 l\Ir. Wheeler and his
oldest son, George W., came to the Kittitas Valley looking for range for their
stock. George was twelve years old at this time. In 1870 Mr. and Mrs. Wheeler
with their family of six children moved to Kittitas, crossing the mountains with
an ox-team. In the Spring of 1871 they built a small log cabin. This cabin
was built of hewn cottonwood logs ; the ends of the logs were dovetailed together
and pinned with wooden pins. The windows and door frames were also pinned
in with wooden pins. The roof and floor were of dirt and a huge fireplace filled
the east end of the cabin. The fireplace was built of rock filled in with mud and
the chimney was made of sticks and mud. The cabin is built but a few feet
from the west bank of Cherry Creek, facing the south. There was one small
window and a door in the front, a window in the west end and a door in the
north. The doors were fastened with wooden thumb latches lifting with a buck-
skin string from the outside.
The W'heeler family and their few neighbors used this cabin for many social
affairs, dancing being the favorite anuisement. Grandfather \\'heeler furnished
the music, for he was a famous "fiddler" ; and I am told that at several of the
dances the dust was so thick it was impossible to see one's partner.
570 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \-ALLEY
A few years later an addition was built onto the west end of the cabin.
New floors were put down and a new roof added to the old part. The roof and
floor were of rough boards sawed with a whipsaw at Jordan's mill in the Naneum
canyon. Yet, with this addition, by the time their own small children and the
small children of their neighbors were put to bed there was very little room left
for dancing. It was customary at these pioneer parties for the guests to remain
all night, returning home the next morning.
It was during the Indian trouble of 1878 that the second story of the cabin
was built, making a block-house. This part was of logs, built in the same
manner as the first part and projected over the lower story. There were eight
portholes on each side and two on each end. This new story of the house was
floored with dressed lumber and, being all in one room, it was with much
hilarious fun they gathered for the first dance.
A few years ago the upper part of the old cabin was moved over to the
present home of A. Wheeler and is used for a barn. The cabin is neglected but
there are many things as they were in the early days. The peg. a part of every
log cabin, is still in the north wall and the little platform for the "fiddler" to
sit on is still in the cabin. The doors and windows are gone, except the door
on the north. The fireplace was boarded up and the stairs moved from inside
the cabin to the outside on the east end. The old orchard of apples and plums
raised from seeds planted by Mrs. Wheeler is still alive : the fruit is of very
good quality.
The years with their sunshine and rain have softened and colored the logs
of the old cabin to a dull gray velvet and have found their way through the
roof. Although the cabin was ready at any time to do its part as a block-house
it was never used for that purpose.
Grandfather Wheeler died in February, 1882, in this cabin. Grandmother
Wheeler continued to live on the homestead until her death in May, 1917.
In the summer of 1877. came a rumor of Indian troubles and as there were
no block-houses at that time, the people gathered at dift'erent homes, generally
selecting the home having the largest cabin.
The settlers of the west side of the river seem to have been less troubled
by the Indians than those living on the east side of the river. One reason may
have been that there were more early settlers in the east of the valley and they
were closer to the hills that were the home of the Indians. Those Indians living
in the valley were the friends of the white people, and were as afraid of the
Columbia River Indians as were the pioneers. In fact, during 1877 and 1878,
some of the valley Indians went to the Puget Sound country where they would
have better protection.
In June. 1877, the people northwest of Ellensburg gathered at the Shaser
home, staying there nights and going home to their work during the day. The
Shaser cabin was built on what is now the Dunning ranch, by George Shaser
in 1870. George Shaser and his wife were married while crossing the plains in
1845. Mrs. Shaser was but thirteen years old when married. They went to
Oregon, where they lived until 1847 when they moved to the mouth of the
Nisqually River. In the fall of 1869 Mr. Shaser came to Kittitas looking for
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 571
range for his stock. The next Spring, Mt. and i\Irs. Shaser with their family
of twelve children came to the Kittitas Valley by The Dalles road. Their
cabin, like the other log cabins in the valley, was built of hand-hewn logs pinned
together with wooden pins. The roof and floor were of dirt. In 1878, when
rumors of Indian trouble were of almost daily occurrence, the Shaser cabin was
made into a blockhouse, but was never used for that purpose.
In 1877, the people of the southeast part of the valley gathered at the home
of S. B. Olmstead. Mr. Olmstead crossed the plains in 1849, going to Cali-
fornia. Later Mr. Olmstead lived in Oregon and in September, 1876, Mr. and
Mrs. Olmstead moved to the Kittitas Valley, riding horseback across the moun-
tains. Their cabin was built similar to the other cabins of hewn logs and
wooden pins except that when first built, the floor and roof were of boards.
The fireplace was built of stones filled in with mud with a chimney of sticks
and mud. The doors were fastened with a long, stout wooden bar. This bar
was put through a large ring made from an iron bar. The windows were small,
each containing only four small panes of glass. As everything about the early
log cabins was built very substantially, the people had reason to feel fairly safe
in them. Some of the families that were at the Olmstead home were Charles
Wheeler, James Ferguson. John McEwen, A. Curtis, Dan Wigle. During the
night, George Wheeler and Mr. McEwen stood guard.
Doubtless the greatest excitement over the Indians was the evening of June
— , 1877, when there came word that the Indians had killed the people on the
Wenatchee Mountains and were then in the upper part of the valley. People
lost no time in letting their neighbors know the state of affairs and it was decided
that they would all go to Ellensburgh. Horses were quickly caught and hitched
to the wagons and the families were on their way to town. From all directions
in the clear Summer air could be heard the rattle of the heavy linchpin wagons.
To add to the din the wagon boxes were made of small cottonwood logs. It
was about eleven o'clock that night when people began to arrive at the Shoudy
store. The people in town were fast asleep, not having heard that the Indians
were coming into the valley ; the settlers of the east part of the country always
heard all Indian rumors first. Shoudy had a few guns and some ammunition
but there were not enough guns for everyone. The people were not lacking
for courage but had very little to back their courage up with. The night was
spent quietly and in the morning the people returned to their homes. They
decided that something must be done, some place made safe for them against
the Indians. As a result of this decision the different block-houses were built,
some at once and others that Fall.
What was known as the Grange Hall on the Whitson place, now owned by
Wager, was moved closer to the creek and a stockade built around it. The
Grange Hall was just a log house built and used for a public gathering place,
a Grange had been organized in the valley and the hall was built although the
Grange had been disbanded before this. The stockade was built of small trees
or posts set on end around the house, just outside the stockade a deep trench
was dug and the dirt thrown against the posts. A lookout tower was also a
part of the defense. Tall poles were stood up and a small platform built at the
top. From this platform the valley and foothills could be plainly seen, as there
572 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \'ALLEY
were no trees except along the creeks where low brush grew. During the day
they left the block-house, going over to the creek by the spring, and back to the
block-house at night. Guards were stationed and everything made safe as pos-
sible for the night. Some of the men went to their homes through the day,
cutting hay and doing other work. A number of families in the east part of
the valley did not go to the Grange Hall, S. B. Olmstead's family being among
those who, for various reasons, remained at their homes. Mr. Olmstead was
ill and unable to go back and forth to his ranch as many did and felt that his
family was as safe in their home as at the block-house. A friend, L. Grewell,
stayed with them. They made a deep trench around each window and in the
trench stood small Cottonwood logs ; this made a sort of stockade. Large barrels
filled with water were kept in the kitchen. Guns and ammunition were very
scarce in 1877, but they seemed to have been fairly well supplied. Between
them they had a needle gun, a muzzle-loading gun and a revolver! The cart-
ridges used were interesting, they were made of heavy brown paper, rolled into
a small tube and filled with powder and the end twisted. This end was bitten
off when loading the gun.
A rather amusing incident happened at this time. One sultry afternoon
the guard in the lookout tower of Grange Hall saw a great cloud of dust coming
from the hills north of the valley. Quickly it was seen that the dust cloud was
made by a band of Indian ponies. The alarm was given, and every one made
a rush for the block-house, the gate was not wide enough, but at last, breathless
and hatless, everyone was inside and the gate closed. Closer came the ponies,
until, when within a mile of the block-house it could be seen that it was merely
a herd of wild ponies. Almost simultaneously with this discovery, Billy Smith
rode up to the gate. He seemed to have a sense of humor for early that morn-
ing he had gone to the hills after horses. Coming home, he drove them at
break-neck speed toward the block-house, and when within a mile or so from
there, under the screen of dust he left the horses and made his way to the creek
where the brush made an efifective cover.
There is nothing now remaining of the Shaser block-house. 'Sir. Shaser
has been dead for many years. Mrs. Shaser is living with her son at Cashmere,
Washington.
The log cabin on the Olmstead farm is in fairly good repair and looks very
much as it did when first built.
For several years the Grange Hall was used for a schoolhouse. Mrs. Sam
Thomas teaching the school. There is nothing left of the building now.
Sources of information : Letters and Papers, G. ^^'. Smith, George Wheeler,
Phil S. Olmstead, Indians.
[End of Miss Smith's Article]
Xiow to return to the early experience of Mr. Taylor ; he drove a band of
four thousand cattle from The Dalles to British Columbia in 1870. They
were obliged to cross the Columbia River twice. The crossing was a great
adventure. About nine hundred cattle were driven across at a time, and
though there was so much confusion and danger but few were lost. In 1877
Mr. Taylor acquired what becaine later the Kinney place. He traded for a
DR. JOHN ROBBINS' CABIN, SPRINGFIELD FARM, NORTH ELLENSBURG,
CLAIMED IN MAY, 1878
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 573
horse and saddle this place which later was worth $25,000. Subsequently, Mr.
Taylor acquired the place later known as the George and Jeff Smith place, seven
miles northeast of Ellensburgh. Mrs. Taylor (Mary Grewell) is nearly as
old a pioneer as her husband, having come in 1873. Her brother, E. D.
Grewell, located in the section known as "Denmark" in 1871. Mrs. Taylor,
while still Mary Grewell, taught the first school in the neighborhood. District
No. 12, in 1876.
Besides those named above, the following should be recorded as belonging
to the honorable company of these earliest builders. Each is worthy of ex-
tended notice, but the limits of this chapter forbid further enlargement, and
we may only say that most of those here named lived many years in the valley,
some of them are still living in honored old age, and their descendants now
occupy leading places in all lines of business enterprise and professional life.
This list can not in the nature of the case be exhaustive, but we endeavor to
give here those who became permanent residents not later than 1872. Thomas
Goodwin, Benton Goodwin, W. H. Donald, James McDonald, Fenton McDonald,
H. Packwood, J. H. McEwen, M. M. Damman, J. D. Damman, James Fergu-
son, Hugh Perry, J. M. Perry, C. A. Sanders, W. A. Stevens, William Dennis,
William Lewis, E. E. Erickson, Mr. Reeser, J. E. Bates, David Fisher, J. E.
Voice, August Nesselhouse, J. D. Dysert, G. W. Parrish, Elias Messerly, F.
M. Frisbie, W. H. Beck. J. D. Olmstead, Jacob Becker, George Wheeler,
Daniel Wigle, Robert Wallace, C. B. Walker, George Hull, Charles H. Wheeler,
George Robinson, Dr. Robbins.
Most of those named above had families, though a number were bachelors.
Some of the earliest settlers were "squaw men."
BEGINNING OF IMPROVEMENTS
The year 1870 may be considered as the central date of beginnings. If
we were to select five fundamental agencies of public improvements most essen-
tial in the Kittitas \'alley they would probably be postofhces, roads and bridges,
irrigation, schools and churches, and saw mills. We shall endeavor to give in
this stage of our story some view of each of these fundamental agencies in com-
munity life.
The first attempt at a postoffice was a private affair started by Charles
Splawn in 1868. Upon the arrival the next year of F. M. Thorp into the same
neighborhood he joined with Mr. Splawn in the maintenance of that first sys-
tem of communication. They employed an Indian to make a weekly trip to Seattle.
In 1869 a United States postoffice was established on Mr. Thorp's place on Taneum
Creek. W. A. Bull was postmaster at the settlement on Naneum Creek. That
office was later moved to the place of J. D. Olmstead. We are informed by
Mr. William Taylor that the office on the Naneum preceded that on the Taneum.
In 1870 the Taneum office was discontinued and in place of it an office was
established at the place of J. L. Vaughn. This is often referred to as the oldest
postoffice in the county. That statement is not strictly correct, though it was
the first which became permanent.
574 HISTURY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
The office on the Xaneum had only a short hfe. In 1872 an office was
opened in Ellensburgh in .Mr. Shoudy's store.
RO.VDS AND BRIDGES
Practically the only business in Kittitas in that first stage was that of cattle
raising. Men pretty nearly lived on horseback. In those conditions roads and
bridges were not so likely to be a subject of pressing demand as in regions of
other occupations. Furthermore the creeks were all easily crossed in ordinary
weather. The Yakima itself did not, except in flood stage, present any in-
superable obstacle to cattle or to men accustomed to the life of the range.
The general dry climate and open expanses of the Valley also caused road
building to seem less urgent than would have been the case in some pioneer
regions. However, with increase of settlement and especially with the be-
ginnings of agriculture and the starting of the town, the need of better roads
became apparent. The greatest need was manifestly for bridges connecting the
settlement on the Taneum and Manashtash with that on the east side of the
river. The Manashtash ford was the one most used. The first improvement
over the ford was the ferry established there by J. D. Olnistead.
Two bridges were built across the river, one above and one below the ferry.
The upper bridge was built by Jacob Durr in 1880. It was designed as a toll
bridge, but when the owner undertook to collect tolls he found that the people
would rather take the chances of fording in ordinary weather than of paying
toll. Being somewhat embarrassed financially by this disappointment, Mr. Durr
was obliged to raise money in some way to pay the workmen who had built the
bridge. Accordingly he offered to the public yearly passes on the bridge for
$25 and life passes for $50. A good many of the farmers, especially those on
the west side, perceiving the general benefit of the bridge and recognizing the
fact that it was a big undertaking for those times and worthy of support, pur-
chased these passes, and thus the enterprising builder was pulled out of the
hole. Subsequently this bridge was acquired by the county and became a free
bridge. It was known for some years as the Durr bridge, but more recently
has been called the upper bridge. The lower bridge was built in 1884 by Fred-
erick Leonhard, who was engaged in the lumbering business with his brother-
in-law, Geritt d'.^blaing, one of the best known citizens of Ellensburg. The
lower bridge was also acquired later by Kittitas County.
The roads throughout the level parts of the \'"alley, east and west, largely
made themselves, but it was a much larger enterprise to make a road to Yakima.
From 1855 on there had been a kind of road from Yakima to Kittitas. There
had been established also a fairly good road from Y'akima to The Dalles. From
that steamboat point practically all the freight was brought into the Yakima
Valley. It had become clear that the Kittitas must have connection with that
main line of freight roads. Mr. Jacob Durr, not content with the achieve-
ment of the first bridge, set about a toll road to Yakima. This was a big un-
dertaking. The ragged Yakima canyon ofTered few inducements. In fact, the
present state highway avoided that tortuous and rocky way and runs over the
high hills of the Umptanum as a more feasible and economical route. Air.
Durr's road was laid over the Umptanum hills on a good deal the general
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 575
course of the present highway. It was a difficult and expensive piece of work.
At one point it was necessary to have a "turn-table." A long wagon with a
four-horse team was obliged to be backed and turned in order to negotiate the
turn at that place.
It is stated that the first loads of freight over the Durr toll road were hauled
from The Dalles by Billy Mills and Phil Olmstead. Each outfit had about 2,500
pounds of freight, part of it being for Mr. Shoudy's store at Ellensburg. The
road was muddy from recent rains and one of the bridges across a canyon had
been washed out. Coming down a steep hill late in the evening one of the
wagons became so deeply imbedded in the mud that the teams could not ex-
tricate it. The men unhitched and went down to the creek and there they
found Durr and some of his men repairing the bridge. They assisted Durr in
the repairs and spent the night at his house. In recompense Durr and his work-
men assisted in pulling the freight wagon out of the hole and remitted the
tolls. We find another statement that Mr. Cooper hauled the first load of goods
from The Dalles for Mr. Shoudy.
This Durr road was afterwards acquired by the county and became the
regular road connecting Ellensburg and Yakima. In 1880 Mr. Dixon, father
of G. E. Dixon and Charles Dixon, inaugurated the first stage line from The
Dalles to Ellensburg. The distance was considered 150 miles. The first drive
was William Mills.
Of the pioneer schools and churches we shall speak in the chapter on
schools and churches.
IRRIGATION
We turn therefore to the beginnings of irrigation as the next public interest.
We have given in the general chapter on Irrigation a view of the larger enter-
prises in the entire length of the Valley, including the West Side Canal, the
"Town" or Ellensburgh Canal, and the Cascade Canal. We gave there also a
view of the government work at the lakes at the source of the Yakima, and with
that something of the great plans for the High Line Canal. We need not re-
peat here those items of that general chapter. There are, however, some de-
tails of the early private enterprises not given there which have a place in this
local chapter. There seems to be a little difference of opinion as to the order
of priority of the early ditches. The author is informed by Mr. William Tay-
lor that the earliest irrigating ditch, according to his understanding, was con-
structed by W. A. Bull, Tilman Houser and William Taylor in 1871. It appears
from the statements of Mitchel Stevens that the Taneum and Manashtash
ditches were in process of construction at the same time, though not completed
till the following year. Herman Page, J. E. Bates and W. A. Stevens were
the chief originators of the Taneum Ditch, entering upon the work in 1871 and
continuing it during the ensuing year. It was at first a small local affair, but
by successive additions of membership and resulting enlargements of area and
water supply it has become quite an enterprise, covering about 4,000 acres at
the present time.
The Manashtash Ditch had a similar history and in point of time was just
about parallel with the Taneum, 1871-72. The Goodwin Brothers, Thomas and
Benton, who had been among the earliest ditch diggers of the Yakima settle-
576 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \^\LLEY
ment, were leaders in the Manashtash undertaking. Associated with them were
W. H. Beck, George Robinson, B. W. Frisbie and S. R. Geddis. These men
associated themselves in a corporation and the management of the business has
been and now is in the hands of a board of trustees, with the officers usual in
joint stock corporations. Mitchel Stevens has been a trustee for many years,
also president, and at the present time is secretary. Adam M. Stevens has also
been one of the leading members of the official force to the present time. The
area covered by the Manashtash Ditch has also been increased until at present
it is 1,700 acres. One interesting fact about the Manashtash Ditch is that by
reason of its purely local membership and management and the mutual char-
acter of the membership and consequent economical operation, and perhaps also
somewhat owing to the natural lay of the land and the location of the water
supply, the cost of maintenance is .so low that the ordinary maintenance charges,
even of the Government canals, seem excessive, almost beyond reason. We arc
informed that the annual maintenance expenses on the Manashtash Canal have
usuall}- run from fifteen to fifty cents per acre. The Government charge (which
is actual expense) in the Sunnyside district was for some time seventy-five cents,
though now increased. Various private enterprises have maintenance charges of
from $1.50 to $5. This great difference leads the student to wonder whether these
later enterprises are economically managed, or whether the outside capital invested
in them may be making an unreasonable interest.
MILLS
Perhaps the next greatest need in a growing community is the mill, both
the saw mill and the grist mill. We have derived from Mr. Gerrit d'Ablaing,
in addition to other valuable data, some facts of great interest in regard to the
pioneer mills. The first mill was a small whip-saw mill on Xaneum Creek, built
by J. D. Damman in the early seventies, and run by water power. The first
water power right on the Yakima was appropriated on February 21, 1876, by
Levi Farnsworth, J. S. Dysart and J. A. Shoudy, to run a saw mill about four
miles northwest of EUensburgh. This mill was acquired in 1882 by Air.
■d'Ablaing.
The first steam saw mill was located by Frederick Leonhard in Cooke
Creek canyon in 1879. This mill had a very remarkable experience. It was
moved by teams from The Dalles over the old stage road a distance of over 150
miles. After having been used for some time in its first location it was moved
lo Leonhard Mountain, between Naneum and Wilson creeks. The timber
supply was mainly pine and the mill had a capacity of 18,000 feet per day.
Though a small affair compared with the great mills on the seaboard, that cut,
considering time and place, represents quite a mill, and Mr. Leonhard will go
down in history with great credit as one of the large builders of the early era.
In 1876 a small water power mill was built on the Naneum by Messrs. Damman
and Tjossem. In 1879 J- E. Mills located a small water power saw mill at
Thorp. There was still another saw mill on the west side, known as the
Becker Mill, belonging to the same period of the early eighties.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 577
Such may be regarded as the pioneer saw mills of the Kittitas. Of later
developments in these lines, as in others, we shall speak in another chapter.
One very interesting fact in connection with the early saw mills is that the
Leonhard Mill on Nlaneum Creek was moved to Cle Elum. There it cut a
large body of timber for the Stampede Tunnel on the Northern Pacific Railroad.
During the period in which that mill was maintained on Naneum Creek, a
lumber yard was kept by Leonhard and d'Ablaing in Ellensburg. In 1882
this was moved to land owned by Mr. d'Ablaing, near Ellensburg, where his
home is now located. At one time there was over a million feet of lumber in
the yard. It was the existence of this lumber in large measure which induced
Mr. Leonhard to build the "lower bridge" on the Yakima in 1884.
The flour mills have had an equally interesting and important history. The
first mill was built in 1875 by Canaday Brothers at a point on Wilson Creek
about five miles northeast of Ellensburg. It was run by water power. A fine
brick building of three stories was subsequently erected, equipped with the
roller process and having a capacity of seventy-five barrels daily. The property
was acquired later by W. T. Morrison, but the mill has stood idle for a num-
ber of years. In 1879 J. D. Damman established a flour mill on the west side
of the river nearly across from Ellensburg. Burrs were at first employed,
hut the roller process was introduced in a short time. The location of the
Northern Pacific Railroad between the river and Ellensburg seems to have
interfered with the Damman Mill and it was discontinued.
At the same time R. P. Tjossem built a grist mill on Wilson Creek, about
four miles southeast of Ellensburgh. This began as a burr mill, then was
changed to a combination roller and mill process, in the later stage having a
capacity of forty barrels a day. At just about the same time a mill was built
by Oren Hutchinson at what became the town cf Thorp. This also was a
water power mill. In 1888 C. A. Sanders established a grist mill on Wilson
Creek, two miles northeast of Ellensburg. At first a burr mill like the others,
it also followed the prevailing fashion and became a full roller process mill,
with a capacity of ninety barrels a day, much the largest mill in the county.
In 1889 it fell a victim to fire. In 1887 Messrs. Shoudy and Tjossem built the
City Mills in Ellensburg. This was a thoroughly up-to-date mill with a ca-
pacity of 100 barrels a day. Part of the machinery of the previous Tjossem
Mill was transferred to the City Mills and an abundant supply of the best
appliances added. After a partnership of a year the partners separated. Mr.
Shoudy took his son with him into the City Mills, and Mr. Tjossem took with
him his son Albert into a first-class mill at what is known as Holmes Spur, two
and a half miles southeast of Ellensburg. Their mill was burned the very
next year of 1890, but it was replaced by a hundred barrel mill with the best
existing appliances. This mill, with its mill pond, is a conspicuous feature of
the landscape to the traveler approaching Ellensburg from the south on the
Northern Pacific Railroad.
Such were the pioneer grist mills of the county. Others were subsequently
located of which mention will be made in a later chapter.
(37)
578 HISTORY OF YAKLMA VALLEY
DEVELOPMENT OF MINERAL RESOURCES
Perhaps next in point of importance and time in the creation of the popu-
lation and weahh necessary' for a new county was the development of utilizing
the minerals, both the precious and the base. Without question Kittitas County
is surpassed by no county in the state, possibly equalled by none, in variety of
resources. Partaking with other parts of central and eastern Washington in
pastoral, agricultural and horticultural capabilities, it has lumbering resources
which put it almost within the same category' as the counties of the west side
of the Cascade Mountains. At the same time it is equalled by none, with the
possible exception of Okanogan, in the variety and extent of mineral resources.
We have already in the first chapter of this work given an extended account
of the geology and mineralogy- of the Yakima Valley. From that exhibition of
the mineral wealth of the mountain section of this county the reader can readily
infer that the discovery and development of this vast potential wealth of the
county have composed a very important section of Kittitas history. While in
a way apart from the ordinary life of the county that mining district has ottered
some of the most important political, economic and social problems of the entire
region. Roslyn and Cle Elum, with the regions immediately contiguous to them,
have about a third of the population of the county. More than a third of the
annual income of the county comes from the mines and timber of the moun-
tain area.
Aside from these gross results the population is radically dififerent from
that of the Valley section. The latter are almost entirely of straight American
ancestry and breeding. The mining district has a population of mingled na-
tionalities to a degree not equalled elsewhere in central Washington. A lady
of Ellensburg, very familiar with all the conditions of life there, informed the
author that at a recent meeting of the County Council of Defense, at which an
effort was made to get together the women of Cle Elum and Roslyn, there were
present representatives of twenty-six nationalities.
Some, peculiar stories of the early gold discoveries, the "lost mines," have
been narrated in an earlier chapter in this book. We have some features of
that era. not given before, which are of more especial local interest and may
well have a place here.
The discovery of gold in the Swauk region is described thus by some of
the old timers. In 1867 a prospecting party, composed of the Goodwins, Thoma.^
and Benton, well known in both Yakima and Kittitas, with several others, was
going through the mountain belt at the head of the Yakima tributaries, and
while at a point on the Swauk, Benton Goodwin was panning some gravel to
see if he could get a "color." He was not an experienced miner, and in fact
none of the party was, but when a few yellow particles were seen in the pan,
some insisted that it was gold. But they did not follow up the indications and
went on with no thorough investigation. Six years passed by and another party,
of which Benton Goodwin was a member, set forth in 1873 to scour the moun-
tains again for gold. The party were not succeeding in any mineral discovery,
and were again on the Swauk preliminary to returning to civilized life. While
prodding around in a gravel bed, Benton Goodwin discovered a small nugget..
HISTORY OF YAKIMA \"ALLEY 579
Other members of the party immediately plunsjed into the gravel bed and threw
out the sand and stones in an eager quest. After a few minutes' washing they
found that they had $5 worth of the precious metal. The next day they re-
newed the search and obtained still better results.
They went right on to turn over the rocks and gravel. Their intention
was to keep their discovery secret, but being hard up for provisions they had
to send out to the settlement and their secret leaked out.
They had, however, by that time secured gold dust and nuggets to the
value of $600.
A rush to the Swauk followed. A mining district was organized, of which
D. Y. Borden was the recorder. A number of the well known Kittitas pioneers
went in the rush. Among names given of those who were in the mines that
fall we find J. P. Beck, G. W. Goodwin, A. Churchill, David Munn, Samuel
Bates, James Bates and Walter A. Bull.
No great success, however, rewarded the miners during that season and
interest declined. .A few years later activity was resumed and the mineral treas-
ures of the Swauk and Teanaway were disclosed in sufficient extent and value
to demonstrate a real mineral district.
There has been steady and profitable mining in that region to this day,
though never anything of the spectacular or exciting results of some other parts
of the Northwest.
COAL.
From the precious metals we turn to other mineral resources. As the
reader will have seen from the first chapter of this volume, almost ever>' species
of mineral and variety of stone are found in Kittitas County. The big thing,
however, is coal. The Roslyn and Cle Elum coal mines are the most extensive
on the Pacific Coast.
This great coal area begins about twenty-nine miles north and a little west
of Ellensburg. The Northern Pacific Railroad crosses the southern edge of
this field and has a branch line from Cle Elum through the middle of the field
to Beekman.
The formation in which the Roslyn coal is found has an area of about 100
square miles and is over 4,000 feet thick.
It is evident that the coal was formed at a time when a great lake covered
the whole basin. Apparently a great upheaval of volcanic matter with Mount
Stuart as the center occurred after the formation of the coal measures, and after
this upheaval a long period of erosion ensued by which two basins were formed,
one of eight square miles and the other of about half as much. From an article
by J. B. Menzies in "The Coast" of May, 1908, we learn that the chief vein of
several in the coal measures is what is called No. 5, which is about five feet four
inches thick, and which contains about four feet six inches of good clean coal.
This is a coking, bituminous coal, well adapted to steam and gas making, and
it is regarded as the best locomotive coal anywhere west of the great Pennsyl-
vania and West \'irginia fields.
We find varying account as to the time of discovery of this coal bed. It is
asserted by Mr. .Xustin Mires and Mr. Gerrit d'Ablaing, than whom no better
580 HISTORY Ol- YAKIMA VALLFA'
authority can be found, that in 1882 Nis Jensen made the first discovery at the
place where Roslyn now stands. Mr. Menzies in the article quoted above, states
that Mr. Baily Willis did the first prospecting in 1881, though coal had been
discovered some years before. It is stated that Nis Jensen conveyed some of
the first coal mined to Ellensburg in the Fall of 1883 or early the next year.
As soon as fairly tested the value of the discovery became manifest and capital
was at once interested. Mr. d'Ablaing states that James Imbrie. well known as
a stockman in Kittitas, had valuable holdings, and that he and Frederick Leon-
hard owned Mine No. 2. which came into possession of the Northern Pacific
Railroad and proved to be very valuable. In the Spring of 1886 the railroad
company began the work of opening up Mines Nos. 1 and 2. L. M. Bullock
was general manager and Henry Cottle chief engineer in this work. The first
regular export of coal from these mines occurred in the latter part of November
of that year. Coal from the Roslyn fields is more valuable for furnace and loco-
motive purposes than for house use, and has been shipped to many regions on
the Pacific Coast and even to the Hawaiian Islands for those special uses. The
towns of Roslyn and Cle Elum have been built and have acquired large business
and considerable population purely as a result of the coal exports. The North-
ern Pacific Railroad draws almost its entire supply of coal from this source
and has become the chief owner of the mines. There are, however, several
companies operating in the mining and shipping of coal. The chief of these
companies is the Northwestern Improvement Company of Roslyn. This com-
pany is said to be the largest producer of coal in the state, and this is equivalent
to saying the largest on the Pacific Coast. It operates six mines, having an
output of 7.000 tons a day. This is estimated by Mr. jMenzies to be equivalent
to mining an acre and a half of surface per day. and this product is loaded
onto 220 railroad cars, making several train loads every day in the year that
the mines are worked. About 2,500 men work in these mines, and in the two
towns of Cle Elum and Roslyn and the camps adjoining a total population of
about 10.000 lives.
BEGINNINGS OF STOCK RAISING AND FARMING.
While the lumbering and mining interests of Kittitas Countv constitute two
of its greatest sources of income, the stock and various forms of agricultural
interest are fundamental in its growth. The same general features of soil, cli-
mate, and products which characterize other parts of the Yakima Valley lielong
to this upper section. The elevation is greater, though this is not great, being
1,470 feet at the Y. M. C. A. building at Ellensburg. while Yakima is a little
more than 1,000. Zillah 800, Sunnyside 740, Benton City 460. and Kennewick
350. Thus it will be seen that the Kittitas Valley is not of great elevation, even
the lakes at the head of the river being less than 2,500 feet. Even in this com-
paratively low elevation there is quite a difference in the climate at various levels.
The average temperature of July in Kennewick is 77 degrees, at Sunny-
side 73 degrees, at Yakima 71 degrees and at Ellensburg 66 degrees. The
other months have corresponding variations. The rainfall varies in similar
measure. It is about six inches annually at Kennewick. seven or eight at ^'akinia.
ten at Ellensburg, and from thirty to forty at Cle Elum. Due no doubt in some
HISTORY OF YAKIMA \-ALLEY 581
measure to the larger rainfall and snowfall and the lower temperature, we tind
a heavier soil in the upper valley, whereas in the Columbia River section there
is a more sandy and lighter soil.
Soil and climate cause gradations of products and corresponding profits to
the agriculturist. While grapes, cherries, and peaches are peculiarly adapted
to the lower and middle valleys, pears and apples attain a special excellence in
the upper. In the semi-tropical belt bordering the Columbia River five cuttings
of alfalfa are frequent, but not more than three can be expected at Kittitas. On
the other hand no part of the entire Valley surpasses Kittitas in the quality of
the alfalfa, while in timothy hay Kittitas has no rival in central or eastern
Washington.
Of the present conditions in productive industries in the valley and of the
output of the pastures, farms, and orchards, we expect to write in a succeeding
chapter. We will therefore recapitulate here something of the pioneer stage of
these various industries. Here as in so many other places in this chapter we owe
special obligations to Mr. Gerrit d'Ablaing. whose long residence, great interest
in collecting historical facts, and generous use of them in advancing this work,
have been of utmost value. Mr. d'Ablaing has a large list of "first things" in
Kittitas County and Ellensburg, from which we are privileged to glean certain
beginnings in these fundamental industries.
In the stock business we find these "firsts": Charles A. Splawn was first
in cattle raising: Smith Brothers at the "Smith Ranch," established the first
dairy of any size and made the first butter for sale: John Fritz was the butter
and cheese maker at the .Smith ranch ; James Gass in 1891 was the first to
establish a creamery, and in the same year Mr. Gass shipped in the first Jersey
cattle: A. Laboree imported the first herd of Black Polled Angus cattle: Tom
Haley in 1869 brought in the first mules: John Fennel in 1880 imported the
first thoroughbred running stallion. "Tom Murray" : James Stevens was the
owner of the first heavy draft stallion; the first Clyde horse was brought in by
Mr. .Sothern : the first Patchen stock of horses was imported by J. B. Jones
from California: B. E. Craig owned the first Hambletonian stallion, the sire of
a famous race-horse called "Kittitas Range" : the first car-load of Percheron
stallions was brought by Read and Helm: the first -St. Bernard dog (w'hose
w-eight was 198 pounds) was owned by Frederick Leonhard.in 1880. Rev. Mr.
Hawn was first to introduce bees. The first band of sheep was owned by Peter
McCleary and Anthony Meade.
In grain and hay and fruit trees we also find a record of "firsts." Tilman
Hou.ser raised the first wheat on the first ranch. W. A. Bull produced the first
timothy hay and introduced the first baling machine. The first hay baled with
a compress baler was baled by B. F. Reed in a field belonging to Gerrit d'Ablaing.
The first fruit trees were set out by C. P. Cooke on his place ten miles northeast
of Ellensburg. The first commercial garden was run by a Chinaman called
Charlie How, on the Bull ranch. Mrs. J. L. Vaughn had the first flower garden
on the place at Pleasant Grove, and there also Mrs. \^aughn had the first canary
birds in Kittitas.
Mrs. J. B. Davidson tells us an interesting story of the first poi)lar trees
on the west side of the Kittitas \'alley. It appears that her father, D. J.
582 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \'ALLEY
Schnebly, had in 1871 brought from the Ritz place at Walla Walla, a number of
poplar cuttings and placed them in the ground on his place on the east side
of the river. Later, when assessor, he was riding from house to house, and was
using one of those j^oplar switches as a "persuader" to his cayuse. At the home
of W. B. Kilmore he stopped for dinner. Mr. Kilmore picked up the switch
which he had thrown down, planted it, and from it sprang the poplars on the
west side.
Correspondence from the "Stand.\rd."
At this stage of the story a series of items and correspondence from the
"Standard" of September 15, 1883, may well be introduced as conveying that
sense of reality which no after chronicle can reach. From this correspondence
the reader can reconstruct to his vision the actual conditions in that period
of beginnings.
"texdicrkoot" takes a trip.
Standard, September 15. 1883.
Editor '"Standard:" — Ellensburg may justly feel proud of her Summer
resorts which are gradually being made practical by the opening up of good
roads. Among them Lake Keechelus is destined to play no unimportant part,
situated as it is only sixty miles distant in the heart of the mountains. Leaving
this place, the traveler finds rest and refreshment for man and beast at the
Preston ranch, twenty-five miles distant. From there the road winds through
the timber, with an occasional strip of prairie or mountain park to vary the
route, to the supply camp of the S. & W. W. T. & W. R. Company. A fine
large hewn log house is being erected at that particular point by Mr. George F.
Smith for the accommodation of guests, and a general store. Twenty miles
more, and the lake is reached, shining and glimmering like an immense mirror
in its rustic frame. The water is cold and clear as crystal, covering an expanse
two miles wide by seven long. Sailing over its surface when the breeze permits,
or paddling through its limpid waters, banish all thoughts of dust and smoke
into the forgotten past. Innumerable fish can be seen floating lazily in its depths,
or dashing in circles of mad play over the gravely beach. Trout, salmon, red-
fish and various members of the sea serpent family (it is supposed) can be
discerned, as some of the fish seen, were certainly neither flesh, fowl nor good
red herring. Game no doubt abounds, but has been driven back by the boys at
work on the toll road which crosses the Yakima River at the foot of the lake
over a substantial bridge 230 feet in length, and follows the lake up on its nortli
shore for almost its entire distance towards the summit, eleven miles distaiU.
It is rumored that Mr. David Murray has taken advantage of the chance, and
will erect a fine hotel, and other improvements tending to make the place attrac-
tive to those seeking recreation in the mountains. His selection is certainly to
be commended, as a more charming or attractive place is seldom seen. The
Toll Road is now open for travel as far as the lake and when the rock work is
done, around which emigrants have been rafting, the way to the summit is clear,
and then with the world by the ear and a down hill pull, we can rattle into
Seattle. With the fifty men now at work on this side, the road will soon pass
HISTORY OF YAKI.MA \ALLEY 583
all obstacles. The rock is mostly huge boulders or seamy conglomerate that
will readily yield to a bar with a muscular Christian at one end. There are
practical rock men on the ground, however, with the material to move that
which requires powder. There is no reason why this route should not become
a great thoroughfare, as it is our only connecting link with the Sound, that is
short and practical alike for heavy and light travel. Mr. George F. Smith will
drive at least a thousand beef steers over this road this Fall, and probably many
more, as he contemplates opening a wholesale butcher shop there. He will
also build at convenient inten'als good hotels along the present route to accom-
modate the Winter travel. It is impossible to withhold a tribute of respect to
the men who have shouldered the burdens and responsibilities of this undertak-
ing, and have had the grit to carry it all, when others who ought to be interested
have hung back. Even^ property owner in the valley can surely see the advan-
tage to be derived from the completion of this artery along which the life blood
of both this and the coast counties will course, and yet many are hanging back
until it is completed before investing a dollar in that from which they have
alreadv derived benefit, and which they contemplate making subservient to their
uses. Nature is all well enough in its way, but the marriage with art, gentle-
men, is what makes coin. In conclusion we earnestly ask all who have pledged
themselves to support this undertaking, to come forward and help complete the
project before Winter debars the company from work. If finished in time, the
road can be kept open during the snowfall, and the way to do this is to go down
in your jeans, take your medicine and look pleasant. If time permitted I should
like to elaborate the adventures undergone — the sailing and fishing, and the
courtesies extended to us by the boys at work, but beg they will take it all for
granted, as will also the dear old lady. Our thanks for the bottle of wine, and
also the dear little things that ate all our venison. — "Tenderfoot."
TOWN AND COUNTY.
From Wenachie. — From Mr. Timmins, and also Messrs. Doak and Magee,
who were here this week from Wenachie, we gather a few notes as follows:
Everybody on the Wenachie signed the petition for division. The vein of coal
recendy struck by Miller & Freer, about a mile and a half from their place up
the Wenachie, and on this side, turns out to be a valuable find. They have gone
in on the vein and so far find it to be a little over three feet in thickness. The
coal resembles stone coal very closely, and though as yet they have only developed
croppings, as it were, the indications are that it will prove a valuable find. We
have some samples of the coal now in our office, and some of the coal has been
tried in the forges of our blacksmith shops here. The smiths pronounce it of
good quality. The weather is warm and pleasant. Freer & Miller have made a
contract with some parties near Lake Chelan for 4,000 feet of lumber, which
will he rafted down the Columbia to the mouth of the Wenachie. With this
lumber they will make some additions to their buildings. On Wednesday the
boys commenced picking their grapes, and they are now busy making wine.
Miller said he would be over this week, but then you know, he is so busy at
home he may forget his promise.
584 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \-ALLEY
A Contrast. We received a pleasant call last week from ]\Ir. T. G. Mc-
Dowell, formerly of Cherokee County, Kansas. The gentleman is highly pleased
with this country. He has a farm here of 130 acres. This season he put to
barley about sixty acres of his farm, and the balance to wheat. From his 130
acres he has just threshed a total of 3,005 bushels of grain — 1818 bushels being
wheat. He has a farm in Kansas, which he had rented. From this farm of
about fifty acres to grain he realized 140 bushels of oats and forty-five bushels
of wheat. The contrast is unnecessary. Mr. McDowell intends advising his
friends back in Kansas to come out here.
One thousand men to the front. — The large force of railroad builders
recently employed by Mr. Montgomery on the Northern Pacific Railroad be-
tween Portland and Kalama. alx)ut 1,000 in number, have been ordered to
Seattle to work on the Cedar River extension, in other words on the Cascade
branch of the Northern Pacific Railroad, between Seattle and the common point
in the Green River Valley. A large number of carts have already arrived, as
well as the first instalment of three hundred Chinamen. — "Seattle Intelligencer."
Instructed. — Commissioner McFarland, of the General Land Office, writes
a note to Special Agent Gross, at Colfax, Washington Territory, in which he is
instructed not to examine settlements upon reserved school sections, or investi-
gate acts of trespass thereon by the cultivation of land, unless especially directed
to do so from Washington. This duty, he says, is held to belong to the Terri-
torial authorities. We presume these instructions will apply to our local land
office.
Great Activity.— A Seattle dispatch of the 19th says: "H. Thielson. of the
Northern Pacific, arrived here last evening from Portland. He comes to give
his personal supervision to the hastening of the Puyallup branch. He states that
1,000 Chinese will at once be brought here and put to work on the Cedar River
branch of the Cascade Division of the Northern Pacific. Great activity is antici-
pated here in railroad matters shortly.
Received. — We received an invitation to be present at a dance, to be gi\en
at Centennial Hall, Yakima, on last Monday, in honor of Air. J. J. Imbrie and
wife. We regret business interfered with our attendance, and we know that Mr.
Imbrie will excuse us. He has our hearty wishes for his future prosperity
and happiness.
Captured. — George Stewart, who recently escaped from Yakima jail, was
recaptured last week by Phil. Stanton, in one of the railroad camps in the canyon.
LETTER FROM .SW.\rK
Swauk, September 25, 1883.
Ed. "Standard:" — As your readers no doubt take some interest in the de-
velopment of this country, I send you the following news which has been
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 585
gleaned from personal observation : Commencing at the lower end of the creek,
the Elliott claim is the first one that presents itself and deserves notice. The
gentleman whom the claim is named after is the discoverer. He, in company
with Air. Devore, opened the claim this Spring, but owing to the want of suffi-
cient grade to take off the tailings, the claim did not prove as remunerative as
was expected from the prospects. Later in the season Air. Ramos took Mr.
Devore's interest and cut a new race some six hundred feet and laid a joint
flume which now operates satisfactorily but owing to the lateness of the season
and other business Mr. Ramos has left for California, and the claim will be
laid over until next Summer. On Deer Gulch the Becker claim, Diller and
Duffey, who were working this ground, after finding the rim rock and taking
out some very good pay, had to quit on account of the water giving out. The
China claim at Williams Creek, promises to equal its former yield— the China-
men having struck a deep channel running north and south which seems to be
the original Swauk channel. Sam Yo Ching says it does not pay but every one
who examines the place thinks differently. The company above who were sluic-
ing in the flat below Bollman's tunnel abandoned the ground, as the bedrock
pitched in the hill where they lost drainage. Mr. Woods, late of Peshastin, has
returned to the Swauk and will commence work on the old hydraulic claim of
Shoudy & Company. Mr. Woods has sent below for pipe and hose and intends
opening up this ground in a proper manner when there is no doubt the claim
will yield an ounce a day. Diller has bought the Woolery claim and started a
new drift at the upper end, which has been paying from the start. Mr. Diller
is a thorough underground miner and if there is anything on the hill, this
Winter will tell the tale.
Messrs. Black and Duffey are doing well, cleaning up the ground which
Mr. Black ground sluiced this Spring. They have found several nuggets rang-
ing from five dollars to fifteen dollars and have cleaned up as high as an ounce
a day to the hand. Black intends running a tunnel in the hill this Winter on
the ground adjoining the Woolery claim. Pike has been the lucky man this
season and deserves the sobricjuet of "Lucky Pike." Considering the short
supply of water that he has had to work with the yield of the precious stuff has
been over average. From about the 20th of August Mr. Pike has taken the
handsome average of one ounce a day, for the whole time. Pike deserves his
good luck. By and by I will send you another letter. Yours. S. T. V.
Such were the beginnings in Kittitas County. The stor\-, with all of its
strivings, its sufferings, its heroism, its humor and its pathos, can be hut half
told in any general survey like this. It was like other pioneer settlements, and
yet it had, as each has had, its distinctive features.
One thing the author has discovered in Ellensburg unique in his experience
in historical investigation worthy of special mention.
This is the fact that in the Edison School, the training department of the
Normal School, the youngsters of the sixth grade have made a .systematic
study of the history of their county and city. The results of their investiga-
tions have been embodied in two little pamphlets on the history of Kittitas, in-
scribed on the title page as "Composed and Printed by the Sixth Grade of the
Edison School."
586 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
This admirable and unique work by these young children secured the co-
operation of several of the prominent county and town builders. It represents
one of the most intelligent methods of instructing the younger pupils in history
and creating a body of patriotic citizens for the future that the author has seen.
The faculty of the school is most heartily to be commended for this contribu-
tion to local historical study.
So attractive has the author found the conception and the practical results
of this work of the children of the Edison School that he feels sure the readers
of this work will be glad to read portions of it. We accordingly close this chap-
ter of beginnings with several extracts from "The History of Kittitas Valley by
the Sixth Grade o fthe Edison School" of Ellensburg.
Chapter I.
THE IXDI.VNS IN PIONEER DAVS
We made our first visit to Mrs. J. B. Uavidsoii, who showed us her col-
lection of Indian things and told us about the Indians.
The Indians did a good deal of hunting and fishing in the olden days.
They ate all kinds of fish and all kinds of animals. They liked deer and buffalo
best. They ate maize and canias for their vegetables. The maize is corn and
the camas is a root from the ground, and it is the Indians' bread.
The way the Indians keep their water cool is by putting it in a basket, and
putting it in the sand.
The Indians cooked in baskets, open fire, and kettles. The\' put water in
the basket, and then hot stones in it to make it hot. Then they put their food
on and cooked it. They wove their baskets, and got their kettles from the
Hudson's Bay Company.
The squaws didn't feel dressed up unless they had beads and blankets, a
little cap on their heads and moccasins on their feet. All that the men wore
were long shirts, leggins and a blanket.
The weapons that the Indians had were tomahawks, spears and bows and
arrows.
THE STOCK.XDES
Mr. William Taylor is one of the oldest pioneers. He came here in 1870.
He visited the sixth grade and told us about the Indians.
Once the Indians became so wild that the whites had to build stockades
for defense.
One man left his sheep and cattle to save his own life. i\Ir. Taylor was
the scout around here then so he took care of them for him. This man said
that he would rather have his sheep and cattle stolen than to lose his own life.
[NDIAN FEASTS
The Indians held festivals every year. They had what they called a pot-
latch. They gave away presents, danced and had horse races. Ohce Mr. Tay-
lor out-danced a scjuaw and received the present of an Indian blanket.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 587
MR. Taylor's experience with enamesechee bill
Enamesechee Bill and another Indian in some way got some alcohol which
put them on the warpath. They tried to murder a storekeeper, but he had
a small pistol which he thrust down Bill's throat and shot him, the bullet com-
ing out of the Indian's neck. Bill broke away from the storekeeper's grasp
and ran up the road, which was really more like a trail than a road.
Mr. Taylor was standing in front of the drug store when Enamesechee Bill
ran up. He began emptying his gun on Mr. Taylor. Mr. Taylor said he began
to jump about two feet high and saw splinters flying around him. When
Enamesechee Bill had shot all of his bullets out of his gun, he jumped on his
horse and galloped away. About that time two men came out of the drug store
with guns and shot Enamesechee Bill's horse and chased him. Another Indian
came along about that time and caught up Enamesechee Bill and took him on
his horse. And then every man in the town who had a horse chased those
Indians. About evening they captured Enamesechee Bill and took him down to
a shack, locked him up and placed three men to guard him.
That night six hundred Indians came down from the Nanum and said
they came for Enamesechee Bill. So they gave him up to his tribe. He was
quite sick, and when Mr. Taylor hauled wood from the mill he told the Indian
he was going to die, and if he wanted to go back to his tribe he ought to be
on his way. So the next day he was carried back to his tribe. But he died
soon after.
CAMAS DIGGING
Kittitas Valley was about the only valley that had camas and bread root.
The Indians came here from all around the country to get that. They came
from the Columbia River and many other places.
The squaws always dug the camas. The root of the camas looks like a
sweet potato. Before the Indians could eat the bread root, they soaked it until
it was very soft. Then they made it into bread.
While the squaws were digging the camas, the men played games. One
of their favorite sports was the rabbit drive. The men would get on their
horses and make a circle of about a hundred acres. Then they would keep
making the circle smaller and smaller. Then the Indians would shoot at the
rabl)its. They would get a lot of rabbits in that way. Then the Indians would
return home to have a feast.
preparing the bread
The Indians prepared their bread root by cooking it. They dug a hole
in the ground, built a fire in it, and heated rocks red hot. As soon as the fire
went out they put the bread root in, then covered it uj) with dirt, and left a
hole in the top. Then they [)oured water in and steamed it.
588 HISTORY nF YAKIMA VALLEY
rHE CHIXOOK DANCE.
One winter it was very cold ami tlie Indians' horses were all dying because
they couldn't get anything to eat. So the squaws danced for three days and
nights for a chinook wind. At the end of the three days and nights the chinook
came. They thought that they made the wind come.
INDIAN MEDICINE
The Indians did not know much about doctoring. When one got sick
they would lay him on the ground or blanket. Then they would start up an
awful racket with tom-toms and hollow gourds with dried peas in the middle.
They thought they were scaring the evil spirit away. Another way they had
of doctoring was to get an iron rod red hot and ram it through the sick man's
body. They though they had driven the evil spirit out even if they had killed
the man.
TOBY AND NANCY
The story of Toby and Xancy was told us by Mr. T. W. Farrell, who is a
jiioneer of this valley. He had a harness shop on Main Street for many years.
Toby and Xancy were friends of the white people. One time Chief Moses
got angry and was going to kill all the settlers in the valley. Toby warned
them, so the white people were ready, and captured Moses.
Nancy was a Yakima Indian and Toby was a Sound Indian. One sum-
mer Toby came over to buy some horses, and married Xancy. The Yakima
Indians hated the Sound Indians, and would not let Toby and Nancy stay in
Yakima. So they came to the Kittitas Valley to stay.
Toby was the horse king of the valley. He owned nearly all of the horses
in the hills around here. He had Indian riders to help him look after them.
Toby had many lady admirers. An Indian who rode a fine horse was ahvays
liked by the squaws. Nancy was very jealous. She would tag Toby around
everywhere, because she was afraid that he would make a present to some of
the Indian girls.
Every year the Indians would gather at the "rark" near the present town
of Kittitas, and have horse races. Toby was always there. Even,- white man
of the valley was there, too. Toby's horses generally won.
Toby w^as very^ queer to look at. He was short and straight. He wore
yellow and red strings in his hair and looked fine except for his teeth, which
were worn down in a sort of half circle from pulling camas through them while
eating it. The children were afraid of him. He knew this, and used to open
his mouth and make awful noises and faces just to scare them.
When Toby got old, he went blind and Nancy used to lead him around
with a rope. They were always well liked by the white people, and were re-
ceived with ho-spitality every place they went.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA \'ALLEY 589
illOOSHOOSKIN
Shooshooskin lived near what is now Shooshooskin Canyon. He was
great friend to the white people. He brought a plow on horse back from Ni
(lually to help teach the Indians agriculture.
MEANING OF INDIAN NAMES
Mr. Austin JMires told us the meaning of the following Indian names.
Kittitas means bread. The Indians w^ould come here and get camas for their
bread, so they called the valley Kittitas. Teanaway means place of fish and
berries. Kaches is the Indian word for fish trap. Keechelus means bad lake.
The Indians thought they saw ghost horses there.
Swauk was a very good hunting ground, so the Indians called it Swauk,
meaning good hunting ground. Taneum means Indian home. Kput, Craig's
Hill, is an Indian word meaning the rib. r^Ianashtash means camping ground.
Umptanum means contentment.
The Indians named the Umptanum that because they were contented there.
The snow melted very early there, and the deer would come. The Indians were
very happy then, because they would kill the deer for their meat.
Chapter II.
PIONEER LIFE IN THIS VALLEY
Airs. Austin jMires, Mrs. Damman and Mr. J. P. Becker are pioneers Ot
this valley who told us of the experiences and hardships of pioneer life.
When they came, there were no roads into the valley, and they had to pick
out the best places they could find to travel. They brought all their things in
large covered wagons. The children always sat in the back part, and the
mothers and fathers rode on the seat in front.
The houses were made of logs, and had puncheon floors, which means
logs with the top side chipped oft' with an ax. They were not very smooth.
If the people had two rooms to their house they thought it very fine. Mrs.
Mires' father's house had four windows. They put one window on each side
of the house, so they could see from all sides.
Most of the trading done by the pioneers was at The Dalles. It took them
fourteen days to make the round trip. When they got their corn and wheat
ground, they took it to Simcoe, which was seventy-five miles away.
When the pioneers came to this valley they could not bring much furni-
ture, so they had to make the most of it. The children sat on three-legged
stools, and the other people on benches. Sometimes they would make chairs.
Their beds were built in tiers. The little children had to sleep on the bottom,
the older children on top, and the grown people in the middle. If they wanted
to stain their furniture they would take the bark of the alder and boil it. This
made a red stain.
The people had three ways of cooking. One was over the camp fire, an-
590 HISTORY OF YAKIMA ^^ALLEY
other over the fireplace in kettles hanging from cranes, and the third, in the
Dutch oven. This was an iron kettle with three legs. The cover had a little
ridge around the edge. They would put whatever they wanted to cook in it.
set it on the coals, and put coals on top. Some people could bake in the Dutch
ovens very well.
Their lights were from grease lamps or tallow candles. To make candles,
a piece of string was tied on the end of a stick and dipped in hot tallow, and
held up until cooled. This process was repeated until the candle was as large
as the people wanted it.
The grease lamps were made of a tin pan filled with any grease, in which
a twisted rag was placed for a wick. This light was fairly good, but it smoked
so much and looked so dirty that most people preferred candles.
FIRST CHURCHES
The first church here was a Catholic mission to the Indians. The first
Protestant preacher was Mr. George Kennedy, a Methodist, who taught school
in Yakima and was not here regularly. The first Protestant teacher who was
here regularly was Mr. David Thomas, a Presbyterian. He gave his sermons
in a building meant for a saloon.
DON.\TION PARTY FOR MR. THOMAS
The first Winter that Mr. and Mrs. Thomas were here was very bad, and
they did not have many provisions. They were living in a cabin in the woods.
Mrs. Thomas visited Mrs. Damman. She told what a hard time they were
having. Mrs. Damman thought they ought to give them a donation part)-.
So all the neighbors brought provisions or money and went up to the Thomas'
cabin. When they got there, they saw that Mr. Thomas had taken the straw
out of the beds and was feeding it to the horses. He had some wet sticks on
the stove trying to dry them. When he saw all of the provisions he was cer-
tainly glad, for he knew that they would keep him from starving that Winter.
HOLIDAYS
Their entertainments were nearly all school programs. Everv' child spoke
a piece or sang a song. On the Fourth of July the people all got together and
had a big feast. On Christmas the children hung their stockings up, and Santa
Claus would usually bring them cookies.
One Christmas Mr. Shoudy gave a party. All the people of the neighbor-
hood came. They put the children to bed and the older people danced. Count-
ing all the women, from little girls to old ladies, there were only thirteen.
SUB.STITUTE FOR COFFEE
Sometimes when the pioneers did not have coft'ee, they made it. They
made it by drying and browning oats, peas, and barley. They would ])Ut mo-
lasses in this mixture. This was their coffee.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 591
EARLV ELLENSBURG
In 1871 Air. John Shoudy came to Ellensburg and brought out J\Ir.
Splawn. Mr. Shoudy was the man who started the town. His wife's name
was Mary Ellen, so he named the town Ellensburg, in her honor.
Cattle raising was the chief industry in the early days. In the Fall the
cowboys drove the cattle over the mountains to Seattle.
When Mr. Mires came here in 1883, there was a toll bridge over the Ya-
kima River. If a man wanted to go across the river on foot it would cost ten
cents ; if he was on horseback it cost twenty-five cents, and if he was in a wagon
it cost fifty cents. This bridge was owned by Mr. Jacob Durr.
There were about a thousand people in the valley then, and a hundred and
fifty in Ellensburg.
When any of the people got sick the neighbors would go over and take
care of them until they got well, and when any of the people died, some of the
men would make a coffin of wood and bury them in it.
The first church here was the Presbyterian. Mr. W. O. Ames was the
first school teacher. The first butcher shop was owned by Mr. John Smithson.
Other early stores were owned by Samuel L. Blumauer, Smith Brothers and
Thomas Johnson.
The first brick building was built on the southeast corner of Fifth and
Pearl. It is still in use. The first postoffice was where Fitterers' store is now.
When the mail would come in, people would all go to the postoffice. That was
the place they talked over dances and parties. Ben E. Snipes owned the first
bank in the county.
The first water system was from the spring behind Robbers' Roost. It
was called a water system because the water was piped to a few houses near
the spring. Mr. Sanders owned the first large system. The reservoir was on
Craig's Hill.
FIRST NEWSPAPERS.
The very first newspaper in Ellensburg was the "Kittitas Wau Wau," pub-
lished by an early pioneer, Harry Bryant. It was a typewritten sheet, and it cost
nothing, so could scarcely be called a regular newspaper, though it contained all
the news and advertisements of the town. They turned out only forty or fifty
papers at an issue.
The first real newspapers were owned by Mr. D. J. Schnebly and Mr. R.
A. Chadd. Mr. Schnebly owned "The Localizer" and Mr. Chadd "The Stand-
ard." Each man said his paper was the first. Mr. J. R. Wallace wrote for
both papers. He would writen an item for one paper against the other, then
would go to the other and write something against the one he had written just
before. It was a long time before Mr. Schnebly or Mr. Chadd knew this.
With this view of the beginnings of the Kittitas as seen with the eves of the
children we shall be prepared to close this chapter, taking up the continuation'
of the story with the establishment of the new county in 1883. That date mav
very suitably be taken as the dividing line between the pioneer era and the
later history.
CHAPTER II.
roLlTICAL HISTORY AND LATER DEVELOPMENT OF KITTITAS
COUNTY
COUNTY DIVISION — EDITORIALS — THE GRUMBLING FEW A LOGICAL OPINION — PE-
TITION FOR DIVISION TO ALL PERSONS WHOM IT MAY CONCERN AN ACT TO
CREATE AND LOCATE THE COUNTY OF KITTITAS PAY OF COUNTY OFFICERS^
AN ACT TO CHANGE BOUNDARY LINE BETWEEN KITTITAS AND YAKIMA COUNTIES
INAUGUR.-VTION OF THE NEW COUNTY FIRST COUNTY ELECTION RECORDS
STATEHOOD WALLA WALLA STATESMAN'S REVIEW OF FUSIONIST CONVEN-
TION, 1898 — Bryan's visit— woman suffrage — constitutional amend-
ments— election of 1914 — election of 1916— election of 1918 — later
general history of county irrigation cascade irrigation district
summary of engineer's REPORT ON CANAL IMPROVEMENTS SPECIAL MEET-
ING, BOARD OF COUNTY COMMISSIONERS RAILROADS BUILDING THE C. M. &
ST. P. R.\ILWAY THROUGH KITTITAS COUNTY — THE CO.\L MINES KITTITAS
EXHIBITS AT NORTHWESTERN INDUSTRIAL EXPOSITION, AS PUBLISHED IN
"WASHINGTON .STATE REGISTER."
The giowth of the Kittitas Valley in the decade of the seventies, and the
promise of greater things sure to follow, led inevitably to a demand for a new
county. The combat for count\- division does not seem to have been so strenu-
ous and bitter as it had been in some cases of cou'nty division. The original
Yakima County was so large, and as time passed and irrigation systems became
established the prospective production and population assumed so great magni-
tude, as also the Kittitas Valley was so obvioiisly a natural unit, that most of
the farther-visioned men of Yakima dropped easily into the assumption that a
new county was a foregone conclusion.
Nevertheless some of the most prominent men of Yakima steadfastly o])-
posed the erection of a new county. Among these was J. M. Adams, editor of
the "Y'akima Signal." He was one of the ablest men in Y'akima and while he
was the center of much controversy during his lifetime, none of his opponents
ever had anything but admiration for his brain and vigor. Moreover he was the
idol of the ".\nti-Monopoly" and "Anti-Railroad" forces, and looked upon as a
sort of tribune of the people. It therefore seemed rather out of character that
he, an apostle of popular rights, should oppose what seemed a movement in the
direction of local liberty. The attitude of the "Signal" in this county combat
returned to plague Mr. .\dams at a later time.
As indicating the conditions and sentiments, as viewed from the Kittitas
end of the (luesiion, we incorporate here extracts from the "Kittitas Standard."
From thu issue of July 28, 188.\ we take the following:
COUNTY DIVISION
Under this caption the editor of the "Yakima Record" discusses the question
with courtesy and moderation — a quality rarely found with journalists now-a-
days. Whh such people it is sometimes a pleasure to dififer in opinion. It is,
592
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 593
therefore, in all courtesy and kindness we shall look over some of the objections
raised by the "Record" against division. The general tenor of the article admits
the justice of our claim for division, but says it fears hatred and feuds may be
engendered in the fight. Why should feuds be engendered if the justice of our
claim is conceded? The "Record" intimates we are in debt some. We are, for
a fact, and from present indications the debt is never liable to be less. Having
the greatest number of people and the largest share of taxable property in this
end of the county we of course pay the greatest proportion on the debt. We
do not ask for a removal of the county seat, which by merit and justice we
could claim, simply because we know if the county seat was removed the people
of Yakima would labor under the same disadvantages we are now suffering. As
great as the debt is, as we have stated before, we are willing to take our share
of it and separate. Division in our opinion would act as an incentive to develop-
ment by both counties. A friendly strife would arise in each to excel the other,
and the people of each county would struggle to place before the world the clearest
record. Again the editor of the "Record" politely suggests if we wait two years,
then it will be time enough to "chain off the old heritage." Has he not thought
that within the next two years the Northern Pacific Railroad lands will all be
in market, and the records at Yakima of new deeds and mortgages for such
lands will cost residents of this valley more than to support a new county. At
the present time the cost of transcribing records would be nominal in comparison
with the cost two years hence. We say let us have, if possible, one record, and
that one our own, of all future conveyances. Elsewhere a correspondent also
takes a view of the division question. We commend it to the perusal of our
readers.
The "Yakima Record" wants to know the cause of the "Signal's" animus
against Villard. We can tell you in a few words. Once upon a time, in the
"sweet by and by," its editor called upon the railroad magnate. Just at that
time "the magnate" was too busy to receive "small fr)'," so the "cut direct^' was
given. Previous to that time all was "serenity" with the aforesaid gent as far
as the Northern Pacific Railroad was concerned. But the aforesaid "cut direct"
caused a change to come over the "spirit of his dreams." Some day we will
tell the whole story. Till then we hope our Yakima contemporary will remain
satisfied with the present explanation of what is now mysterious.
THE GRUMBLING FEW
There can be no l^etter evidence of the benefit to come to the people from
the building of railroads, says the "Northwest News," than is found in the
grumbling of some of the old merchants on the line of the Northern Pacific.
They have been reaping a harvest, which no one begrudges them, for they took
the chances at a time when few men would venture so far from the protection
of settled communities: but customers had to suffer from high prices. The
monopoly might be small, but it is quite possible to have a grinding monopoly
even ni a country store. In one instance a merchant states that he has within
the past ten or twelve years been doing a business of half a million a \ear, with
an average profit of forty per cent. Of course he is rich, and like everv other
(38)
594 HISTORY OF YAKniA \ALLEY
rich man, wants to be richer, and regards with displeasure any intruder that
will cut his profits down. His customers, who are really the ones to be con-
sidered, hail with exceeding satisfaction the change which will feed and clothe
them better and cheaper, and the greatest good for the greater number is se-
cured. In the same way there is a deal of grumbling among the stage men,
and the citizens of stage stations. These little villages will, in many instances,
be left miles away from the main line of travel, and those of them who were so
short-sighted as to make their plans for a lifetime of stage-coaching, feel that
they are greatly injured; meanwhile the main line of travel shifts to where hun-
dreds are accommodated, and makes it possible for thousands, so there is more
than ample compensation for the village loss. The stage men say their business
is fast being ruined; that they have been driven from point to point, and that
soon they will have no resource but to short routes into the country from the
railroad stations. Some of them are inconsolable, and look gloomily forward
to the time when they can no longer crack the whip over a six-in-hand and
prance up to the roadside hotel as the chief event of the day ; but the passenger.^
do not share their gloom, and there are always more passengers than drivers —
more to be served than serving, and so, again, the benefit comes to the many.
This disposition to kick against the inevitable progress of the world is older
than the oldest moss-back in the slowest corner of the most behind-hand region.
A LOGICAL OPINION
At New Tacoma Vice-President Oakes had no hesitation in saying that
Tacoma has all the elements of great and permanent prosperity. It will always
be the shipping point for the Carbon Hill and Wilkeson coal fields ; it will be
the great shipping point for the grain of eastern Washington.
In this declaration we find confirmation of the oft repeated assertion of
the "Union," that upon completion of the Northern Pacific the business of
shipping grain to the Liverpool market will be changed from Portland to Puget
Sound. In further confirmation of our view, Colonel Oakes said: "The fact
of the matter is that the company has felt that the farmers must be educated
to the adoption of elevators for shipping grain; and, besides, there is really no
absolute necessity for elevators or other provision than now exists until the
line between Portland and Kalama is completed. When that is done the ele-
vators will be got ready for the shipment of next year's crop."
It is evident that if grain is to be shipped in bulk it will be impossible
for \essels to partially load at Portland and complete cargo at Astoria, from
barges, as it is now necessary to do. To load in bulk elevators are absolutely
necessary and to complete cargo from barges is an impossibility. Shipping in
bulk will save to the farmer at least the interest on the cost of the sacks, and
will doubtless add in other respects greatly to his profit.
We also see in the utterances of Colonel Oakes an earnest of the speedy
completion of the road over the Cascade ^Mountains. Villard announced that
the engineers had decided that the mountains could be crossed with a maximum
grade of fifty-three feet per mile, a grade less by many feet than it is possible
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 595
to obtain between Kalania and Tacoma. When to this decrease of grade we
add the hundred miles of less distance, it becomes evident to a novice that the
early completion of the road over the mountains is a business necessity. — Walla
Walla Union.
From the "Standard" of September 15, we take an editorial and also a notice
of a petition to be presented to the legislature.
PETITION FOR DIVISION
Sei>tember 15, 1883.
A petition is now in circulation in this county for the signatures of all legal
voters praying that the legislature will divide Yakima County and create a new
county out of the northern half thereof. The petition is not worded as strongly
as we would wish, yet it sets forth a sufficient amount of grounds upon which,
in justice to the people, we think the legislature should act favorably. The
petition represents that the county is about two hundred miles long and ex-
tends from the summit of the Cascade Mountains on the west to Columbia
River on the east. In this scope of territory there is embraced an area nearly
equal, if not more, than is contained in many states of the Union, which of itself
is good grounds for favorable action on the part of the legislature. The pres-
ent population of the county, the petition further recites, is principally located
in the Ahtanum and Kittitas valleys, separated by a natural barrier — a moun-
tain chain which renders access to the present county seat from this section
very expensi\e, difficult in Summer and at times hazardous in Winter. This,
we think, is unanswerable upon the part of those who are opposed to division,
and as we set forth in a previous issue this particular point, we shall pass to
the next clause in the petition. Again, it is set forth that in each of said valleys
there is a thriving and prosperous town of about equal population, wealth and
business interests, and located about fifty miles apart. This is true, and yet
we think here is where the petition should have been more strongly worded.
The "l)usiness interests" of this section absolutely demand division as a matter
of economy to its residents, without taking into consideration the question
commerce. The construction of the Cascade division of the Northern Pacific
Railroad insures a large accession to the present county,^ as well as enhances
the value of all classes of property and increases the recording of transfers and
titles, mortgages, etc. This fact is patent to all. Besides such a state of afifairs
is but constantly adding to the burdens of expense and inconvenience of this
section as its population increases. Upon this point we would like some
opposer of division to attack us. It may also be said here that residents of this
section save the expenditure of large sums of money annually to themselves in
the way of expenses. "This money will be retained in our own midst and go
to enrich this section. At present such records at Yakima City are almost
inaccessible and worthless to the northern half of the county." They are worth-
less to this .section from the difficulty of access to them, and the expense attend-
ant upon a trip to the county seat to obtain that access to them. The petition
then sets forth boundary lines asked for as follows : "Commencing at a point
596 HISTORY OF YAKIMA WVI.LEY
where the main channel of the Columbia River crosses the township line be-
tween 14 and 15 north, range 23 east, and running west on said township line
to the range line between townships 18 and 19 east ; thence north on said line
six miles to township line between townships 15 and 16 north; thence west on
said line to the summit of the Cascade Mountains; thence north along the sum-
mit of the Cascade Mountains to the Wenachie River; thence down the \Ve-
nachie River to the Columbia River; thence down the mid-channel of the Co-
lumbia River to the place of beginning." This" line starts in near Priest Rapids,
thence runs west to a point on the ridge about two and a half miles above John
Cleman's place on the Wenas. It then follows as near as practicable the ridge
near the headwaters of the Umptanum. Thence due west across the Wenas
about a mile below the Pressey place. These petitions are being circulated, as
yet not thoroughly, but will be by the 10th of October. In the meantime those
who desire can sign at any of the stores or saloons. We predict that the pe-
tition will meet with universal approval.
TO .\LL PERSONS WlHOM, IT M.\Y CONCERN
Notice is hereby given that application will be made to the next Legislative
Assembly of the Territory of Washington for the formation of a new county
out of that portion of the Territory of Washington described and bounded as
follows, to-wit : "Commencing at a point where the main channel of the Co-
lumbia River crosses the township line between 14 and 15 north, range 2,^
east, Willamette Meridian, and running west on said township line to the range
line between townships 18 and 19 east, thence north on said line six miles to
township line between township 15 and 16 north; thence west on said line to
the summit of the Cascade Mountains ; thence north along the summit of the
Cascade Mountains to the Wenachie River ; thence down the Wenachie River
to the Columbia River ; thence down the mid-channel of the Columbia River
to the place of beginning." Embracing in the territory so bounded a portion
of Yakima County, Washington Territory. The county seat to be located at
Ellensburgh. — Many Citizens.
As almost always occurs in a county di\ision issue the attack of the Kittita.>
people assumed two directions. They demanded either the county seat or a
new county. The first demand was not so unreasonable as might seem at present
date (1919). While neither Ellensburg nor Yakima had any assignable popula-
tion in 1875 and hardly enough to weigh heavily even in 1880, the former town
made the more rapid growth from 1880 to 1890. In the census of 1890 Ellens-
burg had 2,768 inhabitants and North Yakima 1.535. Something of the pros-
pects of more rapid development for the metropolis of the Kittitas was fore-
shadowed in 1880 and onward, and the population on the Ahtanum, Naches,
Selah, Moxee and Yakima, at the joining of those areas, seem to have been
seriously alarmed at the thought that they were going to lose their birthright.
The election of 1880 disregarded party lines and ran on the county seat issue.
George S. Taylor of Selah was the democratic candidate for the legislature
and John A. Shoudy of Ellensburg was the repulilican. The voters of Yakima.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA \ALLEY 597
albeit the county was republican, all hung together in the support of Taylor.
Their fears that Shoudy, if elected, would make it his central business to move
the county seat, were no doubt well based. As a result, Taylor, a democrat,
was elected.
The proposed removal failed of accomplishment.
For not only did the election of Taylor put an effectual damper on the re-
moval scheme in the legislature, but a courthouse proposition locally turned to
the retention of the county seat at the old place. For in 1882, just in the heat
of battle, the old building in Yakima City, occupied by the county offices, was
burned.
This event seemed to open the way to a decisive stroke by the Yakima
forces, and. this was the immediate erection of a new courthouse. The county
commissioners voted to proceed at once to the building of a new courthouse.
While this was in progress the election of 1882 took place. As in 1880, Taylor
and Shoudy were candidates. The Yakima people, seeing that the new court-
house would likely nail down the county seat, felt that the best policy would
be to "go easy" on the division question. Moreover the Kittitas people made
a better campaign than before. The result was that in 1882 Shoudy was chosen
to the legislature over Taylor. By a peculiar coincidence Shoudy had pre-
cisely the majority, fifty-six, which Taylor had had in the preceding election.
While the political campaign was in progress a peculiar legal question was de-
veloped in connection with the new courthouse at Yakima City. S. T. Pack-
wood of Ellensburg brought a suit to annul the action of the commissioners
in authorizing the erection of a courthouse without submitting the question to
popular vote. The court granted a temporary injunction to forbid the treasurer
from honoring any orders for payments for work on the building.
These orders had been taken at the Yakima National Bank, of which at
that time J. R. Lewis was the president. Mr. Lewis was a resident of Seattle.
Perceiving that if the restraining order of the court were made permanent,
these orders might be very uncertain property, he hastened to the legislature
and threw all his influence toward county division. The ground of his action
was that he believed that division would influence Mr. Packwood to withdraw
his suit and thus release the injunction. At the earliest opportunity Mr. Shoudy
])crformed the commission which he believed the voters meant to lay upon him,
and introduced a bill for the creation of the county of Kittitas.
The legislature duly passed the bill, the act was approved by Governor W.
A. New-ell on November 24, 1883, and thus the great step of the introduction of
Kittitas into the sisterhood of counties in Washington Territory was accomp-
lished.
The act is as follows :
.\n .\ct to create and locate the county of kittitas and to define the
boundaries thereof
Section- 1. Be it enacted by the Legisl.\tive Assembly of the Ter-
ritory OF Washington: That all that portion of Yakima County situated with-
in Washington Territory and inchided within the following limits be, and the
598 HISTORY Oh" YAKLMA X'ALLEY
same shall be known as the county of Kittitas, viz.: Commencing at a point
where the main channel of the Columbia River crosses the township line be-
tween township fourteen and fifteen north, range twenty-three east, Willamette
meridian, and running west on said township, to the range line between town-
ships eighteen and nineteen east ; thence north on said line, six miles to the town-
ship line between townships fifteen and sixteen north; thence west on said town-
ship line to the Naches River; thence northerly along the main channel of said
river, to the summit of the Cascade Mountains, or southwest corner of Pierce
County; thence north along the eastern boundaries of Pierce, King and Sno-
homish counties to the main channel of the Wenachee River ; thence do\»n said
river to the Columbia River; thence down the main channel of the Columbia
to the place of beginning.
Sec. 2. That Robert N. Canaday, Samuel T. Fackwood and C. P. Cooke
are hereby appointed a board of county commissioners for the county of Kit-
titas, with all the powers as if regularly elected, who shall hold their offices until
the next general election and until their successors are elected and qualified ;
and said board of commissioners shall have power to select and appoint the
remaining county officers, who shall serve until the next general election and
until their successors are elected and qualified, for which purpose the county
commissioners herein appointed shall meet at the county seat of Kittitas County
within forty days after the approval of this act, and appoint the necessary offi-
cers for said county, and perform such other duties and things necessary for a
complete organization of the county of Kittitas.
Sec. 3. That the justices of the peace and constables who are now elected
as such in the precincts of the county of Kittitas be, and the same are hereb\,
declared justices of the peace and constables of, and for the said county of
Kittitas.
Sec. 4. That the county seat of said county of Kittitas is hereby tem-
porarily located at Ellensburgh, at which place it shall remam until located per-
manently elsewhere in said county by a majority of qualified electors thereof,
and for which purpose a vote shall be taken at the next general election jiro-
vided for by statute ; and the officers of election shall receive said vote and
make return thereof, to the commissioners, who shall canvass the same and
announce the result in like manner as the result of the vote for county officers:
PROVIDED, That if there be not a majority vote in favor of such location of
county seat at any one place at such general election, the c|ualitied electors of
the county shall continue to vote on that question at the next and each subse-
C|uent general election until some place receive such majority, and the place so
receiving a majority of all the votes cast shall be declared the permanent county
seat of said Kittitas County.
Sec. 5. That all laws applicable to the county of Yakima shall be appli-
cal)le to the county of Kittitas.
Sec. 6. That all taxes levied and assessed by the lioard of county com-
missioners of the county of Yakima for the year A. D. 18S3, upon persons or
proi)erty within the boundaries of the said county of Kittitas, and all delin(|uent
taxes heretofore due said county of Yakima shall be collected by its proper
officers and i^aid into the treasury of said Yakima County, for the use of said
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 599
county of Yakima : provided. That the said county of Yakima shall pay all the
just indebtedness of said Yakima County: and provided further, That the
county of Kittitas shall pay to the county of Yakima a just proportion of the
net indebtedness of said Yakima County, the same to be determined as herein-
after provided.
Sec. 7. That the auditors of the counties of Kittitas and Yakima are
hereby constituted a board of appraisers and adjusters of the real estate and
other property of Yakima County, and if they can not agree, the auditor of
Klickitat County shall act as umpire, and for this purpose shall meet at Yakima
City on the second Tuesday in January, A. D., 1884; then and there they shall
appraise the value of all public property, both real and personal, belonging to
the county of Yakima, and said board of appraisers and adjusters shall then
proceed to ascertain the net indebtedness of said county of Yakima, which
shall be done as follows, viz: Ascertain all the county justly owes in warrants,
scrip or other just debts, which anlount shall constitute the gross indebtedness
of said county, from which deduct the amount of the unpaid portion of the as-
sessment roll of 1883, and the amount of all delinquent assessment rolls which
are considered collectable up to that date, and the amount of all moneys and
other credits due the county, also the value of all public property belonging to
the said county of Yakima, and the balance so found shall constitute the net
indebtedness of said county of Yakima : provided, The real and personal prop-
erty thus deducted shall be the property of Yakima County after division.
Sec. 8. That the net indebtedness of the said county of Yakima, as found
above, be divided equally between the counties of Yakima and Kittitas, in pro-
portion to the taxable property of said counties as it legally appears on the
assessment roll for the year 1883, and the said county of Kittitas shall cause
a warrant or warrants to be drawn upon its treasurer, payable to the county of
Yakima out of any funds not otherwise appropriated, for its full share of such
indebtedness : provided. That if from any cause either or both of the above
mentioned adjusters and appraisers fail or refuse to act as such, then, and in
that case, the county auditors of the respective counties shall constitute a board
of arbitrators and appraisers, and shall proceed as herein directed.
Sec. 9. That if the board of appraisers and adjusters as herein appointed
shall not agree on any subject of value or settlement as herein stated, they
shall choose a third man from an adjoining county to settle their differences,
and their decision shall be final.
Sec. 10. That the compensation of the said board of appraisers and ad-
justers shall be four dollars per day each, for each and ever}' day necessarily
employed herein, and the counties of Yakima and Kittitas shall pay the same
equally.
Sec. 11. That the county auditor of Kittitas County shall have access to
the records of Yakima County, without cost, for the purpose of transcribing
and indexing such portion of the records of property as belongs to the county
of Kittitas, and his certificate of the correctness thereof shall have the same
force and effect as if made by the auditor of Yakima County ; it is hereby pro-
vided, however, that nothing in this section shall permit the record books of
Yakima Countv to be removed from the office of its auditor.
f)00 HISTORY OK YAKIMA \'ALLEY
Sec. 12. That the county auditor, for transcribing and indexing the rec-
ords of Kittitas County, shall receive the sum of three dollars per day for each
and every day so employed, to be paid by the county of Kittitas, and in addi-
tion to his yearly salary as hereinafter provided.
Sec. 13. That the county of Kittitas shall be attached to the county of
Yakima for legislative purposes, and to the second judicial district for judicial
purposes.
PAY OF COUNTY OFFICERS
Sec. 14. That the county commissioners of the county of Kittitas shall
receive the sum of four dollars per day each for each and ever}' day necessarily
employed in the service of said county, and ten cents per mile for each mile
necessarily traveled to attend said county business. The auditor shall receive
a yearly salary of three hundred dollars per year, payable quarterly. The treas-
urer shall receive a yearly .salarv- of one hundred and fifty dollars per year,
payable quarterly. The sherifif shall receive the same fees as are allowed to
sheriffs of other counties by the statutes of Washington Territory. The pro-
bate judge shall receive the regular fees of his office as prescribed by the laws
of Washington Territory. The superintendent of public schools shall receive
a yearly salary of forty dollars per annum, payable quarterly, and all other
officers of the county shall deceive the regular fees of their respective offices as
prescribed by statute.
Sec. 15. That nothing in this act shall be so construed as to affect the
just proportion of the school fund for the said county of Kittitas.
Sec. 16. That all acts or parts of acts in conflict with the provisions of
this act are hereby repealed.
Sec. 17. This act shall take effect and be in force from and after its
passage and approval by the governor.
Approved November 24, 1883.
A comparatively slight change in the line between Yakima and Kittitas was
made on February 4, 1886, as seen from the act herewith quoted :
AN ACT TO CHANGE THE BOUNDARY LINE BETWEEN KITTITAS AND YAKIMA
COUNTIES
Be it enacted by the Legislative Assembly of the Territory of Washington.
Section 1. That the boundary line between Kittitas and Yakima counties,
in Washington Territory, be and the same is hereby changed and shall hereafter
be as follows, viz. : Commencing at a point where the main channel of the
Columbia River crosses the township line between townships fourteen (^14)
and fifteen (15) north, of range number twenty-three (23) east of the Willa-
mette Meridian, and running thence west on the said township line to the range
line between ranges eighteen and nineteen east, thence north on said range line
six miles, or to the township line between the townships fifteen (15) and six-
teen (16) north, thence west on the said township line to the range line between
ranges seventeen (17) and eighteen (18) east, thence north to the township
line between township sixteen (16) and seventeen (17) north, thence west along
said township line and a line prolonged due west, to the Naches River, and
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 601
thence northerly along the main channel of the Naches River to the summit of
the Cascade Mountains, or to the eastern boundary of Pierce County.
Sec. 2. That all acts or parts of acts in conflict with this act be and they '
are hereby repealed.
Sec. 3. That this act shall take effect and be in force from and after its
passage and approval by the governor.
Approved February 4, 1886.
Mr. Shoudy was received at his home in Ellensburgh as a conqueror. An
extract from the "Register" denoting the sentiments awakened in Ellensburg
by this event appears in the chapter on Ellensburg.
INAUGURATION OF THE NEW COUNTY.
Bv the terms of the bill providing for the new county Robert N. Canaday,
Samuel T. Packwood, and C. P. Cooke were appointed county commissioners.
From the well stored memory and records of Mr. Austin Mires we derive cer-
tain valuable facts in regard to the initiation of the new government.
The commissioners met on December 17, 1883, in a room on the second floor
of the three-story building of Smith Brothers which was on the southwest corner
of Pearl and Third streets, on the ground later partially occupied by Friend &
Flynn's barber shop. At this first meeting the commissioners appointed the fol-
lowing county officers : sheriff, John C. Goodwin ; probate judge, W. A. Bull ;
treasurer, Thomas Johnson; school superintendent, Irene Cumberlin ; surveyor,
J. R. Wallace ; coroner, Dr. W. V. Amen ; sheep commissioner, E. W. Lyen.
At the session of the legislature which created Kittitas County an act was
passed creating and conferring judicial powers, declaring the District Court of
Kittitas County to be a court of record and fixing one regular term of court
annually. That term should last one week, unless sooner adjourned, should open
on the third Monday of October, and its meeting place should be at Ellensburgh.
The county became part of the second judicial district, and that district was sub-
divided for the purpose of choosing the prosecuting attorney. This act united
Kittitas County with Yakima, Klickitat, Skamania and Clarke counties. The first
prosecuting attorney in that subdivision was Hiram Dustin of Goldendale.
One of the echoes of the division question is stated by Mr. Mires to this
effect. In the Republican territorial convention of September, 1884, the counties
of Yakima and Kittitas had each three and a half delegates. Two sets of dele-
gates appeared from Yakima, one headed by J. M. Adams of the "Signal", the
other by C. M. Holton of the "Republic". The Adams group were supporting
Edward Whitson as delegate to Congress. The animosities which had been
excited by the opposition of the "Signal" to the creation of Kittitas were such
that in the vote of the convention as between the two sets of Yakima delegates,
the Kittitas delegation voted steadily against the Adams group. This resulted
in seating the Holton delegation. That event insured the defeat of Whitson for
congressional delegate. The nomination was secured by J. M. Armstrong. But
the indefatigable Adams came back with a heavy counter blow, for he entered
upon his great campaign in the su]5port of. C S. Voorhees, as an anti-railroad
candidate.
\'^oorhees was chosen by a heavy majority in Kittitas and went to Congress.
602 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \'ALLEY
In the same convention there was another httle fracas as between these two
sister communities on the two sides of the Umptanum Ridge. At that time five
counties, Kittitas, Yakima, Spokane, Stevens and Lincohi, composed a council-
man district in the legislature. J. A. Shoudy received the republican nomination
for joint councilman. James B. Reavis of Yakima was nominated by the demo-
crats for the same place. It has been asserted by some of Mr. Shoudy's sup-
porters that a "trade" was entered into between Yakima republicans and H. W.
Fairweather of Sprague by which Shoudy was thrown down in Lincoln County.
However it appears that 1884 was a democratic year any way. Even in Kittitas
County Reavis had 451 votes to 410 for Shoudy. Whatever the facts in that
election, Kittitas "came back" at Yakima when the latter city made its great
campaign for the removal of the capital from Olympia to Yakima in 1887-88.
The Ellensburgh influence was thrown directly against her neighbor, and in
at least one of the elections that seems to have been a determining power. For
in the election of 1889, Olympia received 25,448 votes ; North Yakima, 14,707 ;
Ellensburgh, 12,833. Thus it seems that if all the advocates of an East Side
Capital had concentrated on either Yakima or Ellensburgh, the capital would have
been moved. These events are narrated here as part of the interesting historical
record, not to perpetuate animosities. In fact whatever warmth of feeling and
expression may have existed thirty years ago have long since passed away.
FIRST COURT.
Another matter of much interest in those first years of county life was the
first court session. As .Austin Mires describes it, a hack-load of men, with the
judge, came from Yakima over the Durr road to Ellensburg on Sunday, October
19, 1884. The judge was George Turner, the others were Austin Mires, J. A.
Shoudy and \l. M. Emerson. On the next day, October 20, at 10 o'clock the
first court in Kittitas County was convened. The place of meeting was a two-
story frame building facing south on Third Street, covering the ground reaching
from about the back end of Van Gesen's drug store to the alley and known as
the "Elliott Building". The attorneys in attendance were the following:
Edward Whitson, John B. Allen, Edward Pruyn, J. B. Reavis, Hiram Dustin,
S. C. Davidson, J. B. Davidson, F. T. Thorp, Daniel Gaby, W. H. Peter, J. H.
Naylor and Austin Mires.
That first term of court held over three days and part of a fourth. Of
those first lawyers, three are still in active practice in Ellensburg; Austin Mires,
J. B. Davidson and Edward Pruyn. Mr. Davidson is at this date superior judge.
The first political conventions occurred also in 1884. The republicans met
on August 23d, in Elliott's Hall with Dr. I. N. Power as chairman and Richard
Price as secretary. On August 30th the democratic convention met in the same
hall with John Amlin as chairman and G. W. Seaton as secretary. In September
a few independents met and made nominations for sheriff, one commissioner
and surveyor.
ICLECTION RECORDS.
For reasons which we have given fully in the Yakima political records, the
year 1884 was a democratic year. This was true both nationally and locally.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA WALLFA" 603
It was the year when the sentiment existed that the republican party had become
subservient to railroad influence and other plutocratic interests, and when the
ever increasing tariffs seemed about to deliver the consumers over to specially
favored industries. Cleveland became a rallying cry for those who believed that
they might secure liberation through a change of administration and policy.
Locally it was the year of the building of the Northern Pacific Railroad into the
Yakima Valley.
Hailed by many as the great constructive agency in the history of the valley,
some others looked upon the railroad as an octopus fastening upon the body of
industry. The leader of this latter sentiment in Yakima was J. M. Adams of
the "Signar'. while Mr. Schnebly of the "Localizer" represented much the same
position in Kittitas County. The result of the election, both in county and state,
showed the wide-spread development of that opinion.
C. S. X'oorhees, as democratic and anti-monopoly candidate, was elected by
a strong majority over J. M. Armstrong, republican.
The vote for Voorhees in Kittitas County was 551 to 345 for Armstrong.
All the democratic state nominees received majorities in the county, while every
local democratic candidate, except J- S. Dysart for commissioner, was elected.
The legislative and county officers chosen were as follows: joint councilman,
J. B. Reavis ; joint representative, C. P. Cooke : sheriff, S. T. Packwood : auditor,
W. H. Peterson: treasurer, J. J. Mueller; probate judge, John Davis: commis-
sioners, R. F. Montgomery, J. S. Dysart, J. R- Van Alstine : surveyor, G. W.
Seaton; superintendent of schools, Irene Cumberlin ; coroner, Dr. M. V. Amen;
sheep commissioner, C. P. Coleman.
A vote to erect a building for the county records was lost decisively.
The election of 1886 shows that the following precincts participated : Whit-
son, Ellensburgh. West Kittitas. Tunnel City, Wenatchee, Mission Creek and
Teanaway. In view of subsequent developments it is significant to note that a
special election on local option was held in Kittitas County on June 28, 1886,
and that Whitson precinct was the only one which returned a majority for banish-
ing the saloon. In view of the fact that in later elections the Yakima Valley
counties were the banner counties in support of state prohibition, the early oppo-
sition to and subsequent support of prohibition in Kittitas and Yakima is very
interesting. The general election of November, 1886, resulted in a democratic
victory, though not by so pronounced a majority as its predecessor. C. S.
Voorhees for Congress received 888 votes to 567 for C. M. Bradshaw, his repub-
lican opponent. As may be noted these figures denote a very large increase in
voting strength in the county, for in 1884 the total vote for congressman was
896. while in 1886 it totalled 1,455. It was during that two-year period that the
Northern Pacific Railroad entered the Kittitas Valley. Due to this and many
other influences the period was one of the greatest activity and influx of popu-
lation that had been known in the whole history of central Washington.
The results of the election in the county offices in 1886 were as follows:
joint councilman, C. P. Cooke, democrat: representative, T. J. V. Clark, repub-
lican: commissioners, J. S. I>ysart and A. T. Mason, republicans, and S. L.
Bates, democrat; sheriff-assessor, S. T. Packwood, democrat: treasurer, Henrv
Rehmke, democrat ; surveyor, E. J. Rector, who was succeeded by C. R. Smith
CM HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
1)V appointment by the commissioners : auditor, W. H. Peterson, democrat ; pro-
bate judge, John Davis, democrat: superintendent, Clara Peterson, democrat;
sheep inspector, E. W. Lyen, democrat : coroner, Dr. N. Henton.
The election of 1888 was one of much interest, owing to the fact that the
persistent agitation for statehood, repeatedly turned down, began now to show
signs of fruitage.
It was confidently expected that before another election Washington would
be a state. The Territory had grown enormously during the decade of the
eighties.
By the census of 1880 there were 75.116 people, while that of 1890 showed
a population of 349,390.
In few parts had there been a more rapid increase than in Yakima
County, which in 1880 included the entire valley. In 1890 there were the two
counties, of which Yakima had 4,429 people and Kittitas had 8,777, or a total of
13,206. With the inrush of population from all quarters came new enterprises,
new inventions, new ambitions, a stir and bustle and hustle that the frontier com-
munities of Washington had never known before. It was unavoidable that
the demand for admission to statehood be loud and persistent. There was
another reason for special interest in the election of 1888.
That was a Presidential year. The administration of Cleveland, the first
democratic administration since 1856-60, had in some respects fulfilled and in
some respects disappointed expectation. The two respects in which, in the judg-
ment of the author, it deserved commendation were the very ones in which it had
most drawn criticism; the civil service and tariff. Professional office hunters
denounced the generally honest attempts of the administration to make merit
rather than party service the basis of appointment, and the tariff pirates, who
had built up a secret and skilful machine for turning the contents of other
people's pockets into their own, were naturally hostile to any system of inspection
of their pockets.
Predatory capital and ill-digested theories, socialistic and populistic demands,
were all jumbled together in a fermenting mass during the last year of Cleveland's
administration. When he was renominated and stood stoutly and doggedly on
his former platform of reduced tariflfs and when the supposed "business interests"
rallied under the banner of Harrison, it became clear that there was going to
be a vigorous campaign.
The result of the election of November 6, 1888, was a republican landslide.
Whether the voters understood the tariflf issue or not they evidently did not
design trusting another democratic administration to determine the policy of it.
The hitherto triumphant Voorhees retired behind a cloud and John B. Allen of
Walla Walla isued forth as delegate to Congress, to begin his brilliant career as
a political leader for a time. His majority in the Territory was 7,371. His
vote in Kittitas County was 792 to 776 for Voorhees. The legislative and local
election for Kittitas showed the following choices : joint senator, J. AI. Snow ;
joint representative. Dr. J. N. Power; prosecuting attorney, H. J. Snively ; sheriff,
J. L. Brown : auditor, H. M. Brj'ant ; treasurer, Henry RehMe : probate judge,
John Davis; commissioners, J. W. McDonald, T. L. Gamble, J. N. Hatfield;
surveyor, A. F. York; coroner, Dr. W. H. Harris; superintendent, J. L.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 605
McDowell. Of the above, Messrs. Power, Snow, Brown, Bryant, Gamble, Hat-
field, York, Harris and McDowell, were republicans and Messrs. Snively,
Relimke, Davis and McDonald were democrats.
STATEHOOD.
And now we reach the year 1889, the great year of admission of four states
to the Union : Washington, Montana, North Dakota and South Dakota. In one
of the chapters in Part II of this work we have given some extracts from the
constitution of the new state, together with other matter pertaining to the great
event. We need not, therefore, repeat those general facts at this point. The
delegates representing Kittitas County in the constitutional convention were
Austin Mires and J. A. Shoudy, republican, and J. T. McDonald, democrat.
These delegates bore an honorable part in this organic law of the state. Article
seventeen, asserting the ownership of the state to the tide lands, was constructed
and presented by Austin Mires, being the last article offered. It has been one
of the most important articles in the constitution.
A special election for 1889 was provided in the constitution, not, however,
including county officers. One of the most important features of this election
was the vote for state capital. Of this we have already written, but it may be
proper to record here the results of that election.
Three cities contested for the position. Olympia secured 25,488 votes;
North Yakima, 14,707; and Ellenburgh, 12,833. Much bitterness was felt between
the two central Washington candidates, for each felt that with the support of
the other it would have secured the coveted honor. The law provided for a
majority vote and though Olympia had a large plurality, it had not a majority,
and hence there had to be another election.
That occurred in 1890 and Olympia had a decisive majority and the hope of
locating the capital in central Washington disappeared forever.
At the special election of 1889, there were chosen members of the first
legislature of the new state. By the provisions of the constitution Kittitas
County was the tenth senatorial district. E. T. Wilson, a republican, was chosen
to fill this position.
The constitution also assigned two representatives for Kittitas County in
that first legislature. The two chosen were J. N. Power and J. P. Sharp, both
republicans. C. B. Graves of EUensburgh, a republican, was chosen judge in
the district, this district including also Yakima, Klickitat, Skamania, and Clarke
counties.
Thus the state of Washington was duly inducted into membership in the
Union.
This election of 1889 was the first election in which the people of Wash-
ington had ever voted for a congressman or a governor and other state officers.
John L. Wilson was the first congressman, chosen over Thomas Griffits. Elisha
P. Ferry, honored as one of the Territorial governors and as one of the be*^
of citizens and men, became first governor of the new state, realizing one of his
laudable ambitions. Eugene Semple was the democratic candidate for chief
executive.
The election of 1890 shows these results. For congressman a total vote of
606 HISTORY OF YAKIMA WALLEY
1669, of which John L. Wilson received a majority of 87 over his democratic
competitor, Thomas Carroll. John Etevis, democrat, and J. A!. Ready, repubHcan,
were the successful candidates for the legislature, having 940 and 878 votes
respectively over their opponents, W. H. Hare, republican, with 762 votes, and
A. L. Slemmons democrat, with 736. D. H. McFalls was chosen prosecuting
attorney by 974 votes to 829 for the democratic candidate, C. V. Warner. T. B.
Wright, republican, had 1,009 votes for clerk to 813 for E. J. Matthews, Demo-
crat. For auditor, J. E. Frost, republican, had 1,050 to 781 for Martin Maloney,
democrat. For sheriff, Anthony Meade, democrat, had 990 to 868 for J. L.
Brown, republican. Another democrat, J. F. Travers, was the successful candi-
date for treasurer, having 947 to 839 for the republican, O. Peterson. For com-
missioners. Air. Haran, a republican, was chosen in the first district, J. W.
Richards, a republican, in the second, and J. C. Goodwin, also republican in the
third. P. M. Morrison, republican, defeated John Foster, democrat, for sheep
commissioner by 897 to 828. J. H. Morgan, democrat, was elected superintendent
of schools by 959 to 817 for \\ . T. Haley, republican. For surveyor, the repub-
lican, E. I. Anderson, had 918 to 890 for A. F. York. J. H. Lyons, republican,
was chosen coroner over A. F. Fox by 950 to 816. Thus it appears that of the
legislative and county officials chosen four were democrats, the rest republicans.
In Kittitas County, as in practically all parts of the Northwest, voters are inde-
pendent, and scratching is common — a most wholesome sign in a Democracy,
and obnoxious only to bosses, or would-be cattle of that breed.
.A. special election on February 7, 1891, to fill a vacancy in the legislative
body caused by the death of John Davis, resulted in the choice of W. H. Peterson,
also a Democrat. Mr. Davis had been deservedly popular in Kittitas County,
as shown by the fact that in a republican district, he, a democrat, had been chosen
to the legislature.
His death left a serious gap in the ranks of the builders of Kittitas County.
Now we come to the election of 1892. This was a Presidential year. More-
over it was an especially exciting Presidential year. It was the first election
in which the citizenship of Washington participated. It excited therefore a
special interest in the state. Aside from the particular local interest, the national
situation was one of intense interest. The ''boom" times, so intense and specu-
lative during the decade of the eighties, had broken down with a crash during
Harrison's administration. Whether this was due to the substitution of repub-
lican high tariff principles for supposed democratic free trade preferences, or
whether the uneasy money situation, the silver issue, the question of Chinese
admission, or whatever it may have been, the people seemed as ready for a change
as in 1888. The politicians of both parties were striving desperately to accom-
plish what Ben Butler described about that time as the aim on the tariff plank.
He said that it reminded him of the fellow who was hunting and saw an animal
so far off that he couldn't tell whether it was an elk or a cow. So he decided
to shoot at it in such a way that if it were a cow he would miss it and if it were
an elk he would hit it. The election of 1892, moreover, was the year of the great
populist movement. The "Third Party" is one of the most significant factors
in our political history.
Such an element is the sign and badge of an active and growing democracy.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 607
It is sort of a safety valve of free institutions. This great populistic movement
resulted from the sudden coalescing of progressive elements with the dissatisfied
and discontented. Its vital forces were largely of the broader-minded and more
patriotic citizens who saw that special interests and underground schemes and
lobbies of all sorts were sheltered behind the "regular" party organizations.
Hence thev believed that there should be a general break-up of the political
machine. With them were associated many crack-brained enthusiasts and bank-
rupt politicians. As in all such movements the wise and the unwise, the prac-
tical ancf the visionary, jostled each other in the marching lines. But whether
for good or ill, whether to be condemned or praised, the populist movement of
the nineties was a great movement. It was more than a political incident. It
was a sign of the "growing pains" of a juvenile body politic. Besides all the
other causes of political agitation the gubernatorial election of 1892 was one of
peculiar intensity. The adherents of J. H. ^IcGraw, republican candidate, and
H. J. Snively, democrat, went gunning for each other and for the opposing candi-
dates with somewhat special acrimony.
Yet again a senatorial election was to turn on the results of the legislative
election. As an Irishman might express it, "there was lovely fighting all along
the line." Three county conventions met in Ellensburgh, the populist on June
8th, the republican on July 30th, and the democratic on August 20th. Also
Ellensburgh was hostess to the state convention of the populists on July 25th.
The following were the results of the election of November, 1892. The
republican Presidential electors received 855 votes, the democratic 789, and the
populist (technically, people's party) 569. John L. Wilson and W. H. Doolittle,
republicans, were chosen to Congress, with votes of 873 and 828, to 771 for
Thomas Carroll and 719 for J. A. Munday, democrats, and 593 for M. F. Knox
and 586 for J. C. \'an Patten, populists. For governor, H. J. Snively democrat,
received 783 to 774 for J. H. McGraw, republican, and 724 for C. W. Young,
populist. These comparative figures give an accurate view of the general strength
of the parties in the county, and they would not be far astray from the average
results in the state.
The election for the legislature resulted in the selection of C. I. Helm for
state senator, as republican candidate, by the close vote of 807 to 803 for W. H.
Peterson, democrat, and 582 for J. T. Greenwood, populist. J. H. Smithson,
republican, and George W. Kline, democrat, were chosen to the lower house of
the legislature. .Anthony A. Meade, democrat, was chosen sheriiT over P. M.
Morrison, republican, and W. M. Stinson, populist. J. E. Frost, republican,
had the ven,- large vote of 1,067 for auditor, the democrat, E. E. Salada\-, having
but 672 and the populist, C. W. Dibble, having 505. Martin Cameron, republican,
was elected clerk: J. F. Travers, democrat, treasurer; E. E. Wager, democrat,
attorney: G. M. Jenkins, republican, superintendent; W. A. Stevens, republican,
assessor: E. I. Anderson, republican, surveyor: I. X. Power, republican, coroner;
Alexander Pitcher, republican, commissioner first district: Peter McCallum,
democrat, commissioner second district : Adam Stevens, democrat, commissioner
third district, by the ver>' close vote of 748 to 746 for Herman Page, republican
candidate. Thus it appears that the election might be considered a republican
victory in the triangular combat, but in each case by a plurality, and even then
608 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLF.Y
in most cases with a small margin. That condition forecast a possible adverse
result in the succeeding election, if the opposition could get together. The result
foreshadowed was measurably realized in the election of 1894.
And thus the course of events brings us to the election of 1894.
The striking event of this election was the rapid growth of the people's
party. This growth was attained mainly at the expense of the democrats. The
congressional vote in the county resulted in the choice of W. H. Doolittle and
S. C. Hyde, republicans, with 851 and 820 votes respectively, to 794 and 780 for
W. P. C. Adams and J. C. \'an Patten, populists, and 383 and 394 for X. T.
Caton and B. F. Heuston, democrats.
There was no election for state senator that year. The votes for repre-
sentatives were 882 and 801 for B. F. Barge and F. M. Scheble, republicans, to
820 and 656 for John Catlin and J. J. Leavis, populists, and 395 and 600 for J- J-
Jones and Clyde \'. Warner, democrats. Of the county, offices we find the fol-
lowing: for sheriff, \\'. M. Stinson, populist: for treasurer, Dexter Shoudy
republican : for auditor, J. M. Baird, republican ; for clerk, Martin Cameron,
republican ; for attorney, E. E. Wager, democrat ; for superintendent, G. M.
Jenkins, republican ; for surveyor, A. F. York, republican : for commissioner
second district, J. F. Brown, populist ; for commissioner third district, J. C. Good-
win, republican : for coroner, Theron Staflford, populist. It will be seen from
the above that the populists secured one legislative seat and three count}- offices,
while the democrats were third in everj' instance.
We now reach the election of 1896.
This notable election occurred in the very hardest of the hard times, the
bluest of the blue times. It seemed that the prognostications of evil of all the
Cassandras of gloom had been fulfilled, all the croaking of the birds of evil omen
the country over had been realized. 1894, 1895 and 1896 had certainly been try-
ing years. The election of 1896 was a great election the nation over, perhaps
as exciting an election as ever occurred in the state of Washington unless it were
that of 1916. In those two elections only did the state of Washington jump the
republican track, the first time for Bryan, the second time for Wilson. Kittitas
was gathered in, offices, body, soul and breeches, by the populists, known m the
election as the fusionists, officially named people's party. The fusion consisted
of the Democrats, the Silver republicans and the populists, the great "three-ring
circus", as it was facetiously styled.
The republicans held their usual state and county conventions. Then came
the fusionist convention, notable not only politically, but of special local interest,
since it met at Ellensburg. That was a most conspicuous convention, not alone
for the principles of action evolved and the subsequent results of the election,
but for the personnel of the convention. There were present the dramatic James
Hamilton Lewis, he of the pink whiskers, multifarious trousers, and neckties of
many colors, a flame of oratory and a main-push in all the engineering. There
was the brilliant "Wheat Chart" Jones, with his persuasive tongue and hypnotic
handshake. There was Colonel Blethen of the "Seattle Times", a veritable
"steam engine in breeches." as was once said of a greater man. There was
Steve Judson, of Seattle, with the thunderous voice, and Judge Netever with the
quiet tone of the jurist and one of the best presiding officers that could be seen.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 609
Tliere was Tom Vance with the polished speech but with a biting wit that some-
times entertained and sometimes stung. In all there were over 1,200 delegates
of the three parties.
The populists made a stubborn fight to preserve their lead in the convention,
regarding themselves, perhaps justly, as the significant factor in the combination.
The upshot of it was that in the apportionment of nominations, they received
eight, including the governor, while the democrats had five, including one con-
gressman and the Silver republicans had two, one of which was the other con-
gressman.
This famous election of 1896 resulted in a sweeping triumph of the fusionists
in the state of Washington as well as the county of Kittitas. The Bryan electors
in the state received 50,643 votes to 38,573. Both the people's party candidates
for Congress, James Hamilton Lewis and W. C. Jones, received similar majorities
in the state.
In the Kittitas, the Presidential electors on the fusionist ticket received 1,296
votes to 1,044 for the republican. Lewis and Jones for Congress received 1,304
and 1,280 respectively, while S. C. Hyde and W. H. Doolittle could muster but
1,003 and 1012. John R. Rogers, fusionist candidate for governor, triumphed
with a vote of 1,287, while P. C. Sullivan, republican, had to be content with
988.
The other state offices ran about the same, every contest being a fusionist
victory.
In the legislative contest Daniel Paul, fusionist, had a vote of 1278, while H.
L. Stowell had 1,036, for state senator. At that time Kittitas and Douglas con-
stituted the eleventh senatorial district. For representative for the eighteenth
district (Kittitas County) B. C. Scott and Theron Stafiford, fusionists, with 1,270
and 1.294 votes respectivelv, defeated J. P. Sharp and C. B. Reed, with 1,041
and 964.
For Superior judge of the three counties of Yakima, Kittitas and Franklin,
John B. Davidson of Ellensburg was the choice, receiving in his home county
1,284 to 1,033 for the republican, C. B. Graves.
The local officers chosen by essentially the same majorities, were all fusion-
ists, as follows: sheriflf, W. M. Stinson : clerk, E. L. Evans; auditor, S. T.
Sterling; treasurer, C. H. Flummerfelt; attorney, Kirk Whited; assessor, J. C.
Ellison ; superintendent, W. A. Thomas ; surveyor, Andrew Flodine ; coroner,
William Edwards ; commissioner in first district, R. S. McClemmans ; commis-
sioner in second district, J. M. Newman. The only close contest was in the case
of the vote for auditor. Mr. Sterling had 1,166 to 1,163 for his opponent, J. M.
Baird. A contest was filed on the ground of a miscount in certain precincts.
The court found, however, that the fusionist candidate still had a majority. Three
vacancies, two by death, and one by removal, occurred in the county offices.
Sheriff Stinson died in 1899 and L. C. Wynegar was appointed to complete
the term. Assessor Ellison died in 1898 and the place was supplied by the
appointment of G. C. Poland. Commissioner Brown — chosen in 189-1 — went to
the Klondyke in 1898, and John Surrell of Cle Elum was appointed in his stead.
In the election of 1898 the pendulum swung the other way entirely and the
republicans gained complete control of state and county. The fusionists held
610 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
their state convention in Ellensburg on September 7th and apportioned their
nominees along Hnes similar to those of the preceding election. The republican
state convention was held in Tacoma on September 23. The Ellensburg fusion-
ist convention of 1898 involved much the same forces and line-up as that of 1896,
though the results reversed the campaign.
As giving first-hand impressions of this convention, with some pen sketches
of the political leaders, some correspondence by the author for the "Walla Walla
Statesman" may interest our readers:
The convention ! The "three-ringed circus !" The "political mongrel with-
out pride of ancestry or hope of posterity !" Such were some of the characteri-
zations made by some of the gold-bug bystanders, whose eager desire that
fusion should fail was surpassed only by their ill-concealed fear that it would
succeed, and whose mountain of exaggeration of every disagreement was
matched by a gulf of concealment of every harmony. But what of the spirit
of the convention? The details have already been given to the readers of the
"Statesman." O'ur aim is to present only some few flavoring extracts from
its spirit.
First of all, be it observed, the convention was a triumphant success, a
prodigious success, in its platform, in its nominations, in its spirit, in its prom-
ise of triumph at the polls, in its portentious forecast of defeat to that agglom-
eration of bossism and corruption miscalled the republican party of the state
of Washington. Each of the three days had its special history and its special
spirit. The first was a day of rather tedious and cautious tei;tativeness, each
member of each convention sizing up his associates and pushing out into his
environment, and each convention taking the measure of the others and en-
deavoring to discover the hard and soft places in their circumference.
The night of the first day and the second day was a time of active positive
demands, of bold bluiTs, of excited controversy, of almost, at times, bitter re-
criminations.
The third day was one of calm and generous mutual forbearance, and
consequent harmony. The result was a fusion of the democratic, populist and
silver republican forces, which is deemed by all a far stronger alliance than that
of two years ago : a fusion under platforms substantially identical and states-
manlike in their terseness, comprehensiveness and conservative progressive-
ness ; a fusion whose nominees, Lewis and Jones for congress and Godman and
Heuston for judges of the supreme court, will sweep the state like a cyclone.
The countenances of republicans during the evolution of these three days
formed an instructive commentary on the course of events. Wednesday those
physiogomies aforesaid were underlyingly anxious with a kind of external lather
of attempted facetiousness. Thursday they were crinkled and wrinkled with
joy an inch deep.
Friday they had changed. And what a change ! A ghastly pie-crust pallor
told of the goneness within. Some of the republicans are frank enough to admit
that the fusion efifected is strong, dangerous to them, substantially sure of suc-
cess at the polls.
Another marked feature is the general and genuine satisfaction felt by
members of the fusion forces over the result.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 611
It is not a pretense either. In spite of the intense earnestness which char-
acterized both populist and democratic conventions in the prosecution of what
they deemed their dues, an earnestness which spilled over somewhat into the
camp of the silver republicans, although they were the logical and necessary
peacemakers, yet when the result was finally attained, it was felt by all except
a few extremists (and even they are coming around all right) that any other
conclusion would have been a tremendous blunder and would have imperiled
success at the next election and perhaps permanently. Especially was it felt
that the final concessions by the populists to the democrats of the naming of
one judge (even though many populists deemed it was their due to name both)
was statesmanship of a high order and was the cap-stone of the whole conven-
tion. Nothing could have had a healthier and happier effect. Nothing will be
more sure to cement all forces, and to prove to conservative and prejudiced
people that the "pops" are capable of generous forbearance and patriotic states-
manship.
It is due them to place great emphasis upon this fact. Then to cap the
happy result. Judge Godman became the democratic nominee and this was a
final stroke of statesmanship or inspiration peculiarly acceptable to the populists
and to the people of all parties in this portion of the state.
One other feature of the EUensburg convention, noticeable to all present,
was the exceedingly high average of general intelligence manifest in all
branches of the convention. Could those conservative critics, who view all sub-
jects through the blue glasses of prejudice, and who are accustomed to assume
that all culture and brains are within the republican fold, could they have seen
the cultivated and polished gentlemen who composed the main part of the fusion
forces, and could they have heard the liberal and enlarged sentiments, couched
in cultured and forceful language and spoken with the clear and earnest accents
that mark the scholar and thinker, they would have sat in dumbfounded amaze-
ment and shame, and a part of the scales would have fallen from their eyes.
There were many marked characters in the convention and many powerfiil
speeches made. First of all were the three members of the congressional dele-
gation belonging to the fusion party. Senator Turner, cool, dignified and judi-
cial ; Congressman Jones, eloquent, magnetic and attractive ; Congressman
Lewis, elegant, polished, witty and unique.
The members of the silver republican convention will not soon forget the
profound impression created by the brief but vivid speech of Congressman
Jones, in accepting the nomination by the convention, in which he massed to-
gether the salient points of the coming campaign.
Among the most striking personalities of the convention, the man who be-
yond all others contributed to the triumph of the convention, was Colonel
Blethen of the "Seattle Daily Times." With him should be named Colonel
Lyon, keen, intellectual and scholarly.
We from this side of the mountains who had not before seen many of our
people from the other side, had our eyes at once fixed upon the somewhat desic-
cated form and spectral countenance of State Senator Taylor and listened to
his pithy wit and hard common-sense — about the shrewdest politician of the
whole combination.
612 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \ALLEY
Among the populists, Chairman Hart, Farmer Todd, Horatio Ailing, Cline,
Westcott and Cotterell, were men who at once impressed their force and ability
upon those with whom they came in contact.
Of all men in the convention, the most surprising character was Vance of
Yakima. While his bodily presence is not like that of the apostle to the Gen-
tiles, "contemptible," it is, nevertheless, somewhat scanty, and his general "get
up" is somewhat inadequate, not to say "kiddish."
When he rises to speak a stranger wonders why the chair does not sup-
press that "boy." As soon as the "boy" begins to speak the stranger wonders
why the chairman doesn't have him speak all the time, such a torrent of wit,
sense, good humor, tomed in such cultured language and spoken with such ex-
quisites modulation, pours forth without apparent effort.
Another marked democrat was Judson of Tacoma, with stentorian voice,
surpassed in that respect only by our own Mays.
But it would be impossible to name more of the striking personalities of the
convention. Suffice it to say that the cream of the three parties was there.
The results of the election of November 8, 1898, showed that whatever
larger influence may have remained permanently, the organization produced
by the union of populists, silver republicans, and democrats, did not possess
staying qualities and did not commend itself to the judgment of the voters of
the state or of the nation. The great tidal wave of 1896 receded as fast as it
rose.
In this election of 1898 Francis W. Cushman and Wesley L. Jones en-
tered upon their distinguished careers as members of the Federal Congress, the
relation to be terminated only by the death of the former, while the latter is
still a member of the Senate, now in his twentieth year of continuous service in
Congress.
They received 1,037 and 983 votes respectively to 943 and 848 for J. H.
Lewis and W. C. Jones, the former incumbents.
For representatives to the state legislature from the eighteenth district, J.
P. Sharp and R. B. Wilson were chosen over R. P. Edgington and J. F. LeClerc.
the fusionist candidates, by 1,092 and 1,047 respectively to 806 and 813. The
votes for local officers were just about the same as for legislature though with
close votes on attorney and assessor. Those chosen were : Sherifif, Isaac Brown :
clerk, Harry Hale ; auditor, S. B. Fogarty ; treasurer, C. H. Flummerfelt : at-
torney, C. R. Hovey ; assessor, J. W. Richards ; superintendent, C. H. Hinmati ;
surveyor, E. I. Anderson; coroner, J. C. McCauley ; commissioner first district.
Dennis Strong: commissioner second district, William Mack.
All the county officers chosen were republicans except ^Ir. Fogarty for
auditor, and Mr. Flummerfelt for treasurer.
In the same election a vote was taken on a woman suffrage amendment to
the constitution, the second on that issue, the first having been in 1889. The
amendment suffered defeat 452 to 792. It was defeated in the state bv 38,886
to 15,969.
One event of much importance occurred in 1899. This was the creation of
Chelan County. The act jjroviding for this was passed by the lower house of
the legislature on Fchruarv 27th and bv the senate on March 8th. The act
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 613
joined the southwestern part of Okanogan County to the northeastern part of
Kittitas County for the new county. The line between Kittitas and Chelan is
indicated by the following extract from the act, declaring the boundaries of the
new county : "Beginning at the point of intersection of the middle of the main
channel of the Columbia River with the fifth standard parallel north, thence
running west along said standard parallel north to the point where the said
standard parellel north intersects the summit of the main divide between the
waters flowing northerly and easterly into the Wenatchee and Columbia rivers,
and the waters flowing southerly and westerly into the Yakima River, thence
in a general northwesterly direction along the summit of said main divide be-
tween the waters flowing northerly and easterly into the Wenatchee and Co-
lumbia rivers and the waters flowing southerly and westerly into the Yakima
River, following the course of the center of the summit of the Cascade Moun-
tains to the eastern boundary of King County; * * *" The above indi-
cates the new northern boundar>' of Kittitas County, and from this it will be
seen that the Wenatchee Valley on the south side of the river, embracing the
site of the city of Wenatchee and the beautiful and productive country around
it, became part of Chelan County. By reason of the change in county bounda-
ries it became necessary to supersede Commissioner Dennis Strong, a resident
of Wenatchee. J. E. Burke accordingly was appointed to that place.
To the still large number of populists and progressive democrats in Ellens-
burg an interesting event occurred on April 1, 1900, when the "silver-tongued,"
"Cross of Gold" (if we may make such a bimetallic luixture of metaphors)
orator, the "Peerless Leader" of the Platte, W. J. Bryan himself^ passed through
the city on his tour of the Northwest and paused for a visit and a speech.
The presence of Governor Rogers, whom all people in the state respected
regardless of politics, added interest to the occasion.
The election of 1900 fulfilled the forecast of that of 1898, i. e., the victory
of the republicans. Apparently the people had become afraid to experiment
further and were willing to swallow anything that they thought would be
"regular" high tariflf and all.
F. W. Cushman and W. L. Jones were reelected to Congress by 1,098 and
1110 votes respectively to 924 and 934 for F. C. Robertson and J. T. Ronald,
democrats.
For governor, however, the old war-horse of populism, John R. Rogers,
held his own by reelection, having 1,125 to 946 for J. M. Frink. The vote for
other state officers shows uniform republican victories by about 100 majority.
The legislative returns show the election for state senator of J. P. Sharp, re-
publican, by a vote of 1,207 to 876 for S. T. Packwood, democrat, and for rep-
resentatives of R. B. Wilson, republican, and T. B. Goodwin, democrat. John
B. Davidson was reelected to the superior judgeship by a close vote. The
couiUy officers chosen were: Sherif?, Isaac Brown; auditor, S. P. Fogarty;
clerk, H. W. Hale ; treasurer, Lee Purdin ; attorney, C. V. Warner ; assessor, J.
W. Richards ; superintendent, W. A. Thomas ; surveyor, E. I. Anderson ; cor-
614 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
oner, J. W. Bean; commissioner first district, J. E. Burke; commissioner sec-
ond district, W. E. Crowley ; commissioner third district, Jacob Bowers.
The victory of the republicans was not pronounced so far as the county
went. Of the above chosen officials Messrs. Brown, Hale, Richards, Anderson,
Buri<e, Bean and Bowers, seven in number, were republicans, while the re-
maining five were democrats. Majorities were small in most cases. The result
indicated a healthy state of local independence.
The campaign of 1902 was marked by the fact that by the lamented death
of Governor Rogers, the Lieutenant-Governor Henry McBride, a republican,
succeeded to the place. His administration was signalized by his strenuous
advocacy of laws for a railway commission and the prohibition of railway passes.
This was rather populistic than republican doctrine and shows something
of the leaven that had been working in the public mind during the decade. In
this election also a congressman was added to the list from Washington, giving
the state three. In spite of the "hard times" of the decade of the nineties the
population of the state had increased from 349,390 in 1890 to 518,103 in 1900,
In 1902 F. W. Cushman, W. L. Jones and W. E. Humphrey were elected
to Congress over G. F. Cotterill, O. R. Holcomb and Frank B. Cole, by an aver-
age majority of about 300. For representatives to the legislature from what
had now become the nineteenth district, G. E. Dickson and R. B. Wilson, re-
publicans, were chosen over Mat Flynn and Michal McColgan, by 1,016 and
1.021 votes respectively to 996 and 842. The county officers chosen were these;
Sheriff, R. L. Thomas ; auditor, H. M. Baldwin ; clerk, A. E. Emerson ; treas-
urer, Lee Purdin ; attorney, C. V. Warner ; assessor, W. M. Kenney ; super-
intendent, H. F. Blair; surveyor, M. M. Emerson; coroner, H. J. Felch ; com-
missioner first district, J. E. Burke: commissioner third district, Edgar Pease,
This election also, like that of 1900, was not a decided republican victory. All
the congressmen, indeed, had large majorities, and both representatives to the
legislature were republicans, but of the county ofiicials, the auditor, sheriff,
treasurer and attorney were democrats, and the majorities for the republicans
chosen were not large.
\N'ith 1904 we reach another presidential election. It will be of interest to
note here the precincts as recorded in the county books. They were Colochem,
Cle Elum, Ellensburg first ward, Ellensburg second ward, West Kittitas, Easton,
Liberty, Mountain, Alanashtash, North Kittitas, Roslyn first ward, Roslyn sec-
ond ward, Swauk, South Kittitas, South Ellensburg, Teanaway, West Kittitas.
The election of 1904 marks the tremendous reaction toward the repub-
lican candidates. This reaction was not surprising in view of the fact that
progressive republicanism in the person of Roosevelt was in the saddle, while
the democrats with a ghastly attempt to pick up the reactionary elements had
repudiated their new leaders of the Bryan type and took the back track in the
form of the Parker wing of democracy. The result was inevitable. The coun-
try spewed the ill-tasting mess out of its mouth. Majorities on national, state
and county tickets were generally overwhelming for the republican candidates.
There were, however, some extraordinary exceptions, such as to make the
election i)eculiar. We will give the figures in full in this election, in order to
exhibit the peculiarities and the comparisons. Note in the first place that five
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 615
parties were in the field on the congressional ticket and six on the presidential.
The six latter were republican, democratic, people's party, socialist, socialist
labor, and prohibition. The people's party had no candidates for Congress. In
the county election, the democratic, republican and prohibition parties had can-
didates.
For presidential electors, the highest republican received 1,787 votes ; the
highest democratic, 523 ; socialist, 291 ; prohibitionist, 78 ; socialist labor, 72,
and people's party, 5. To that sorry pass had come that proud host which had
shaken the club over the heads of the plutocrats and lobbyists only eight years
before. The votes for congressmen were: W. E. Humphrey, 1,652; W. L.
Jones, 1,660, F. W. Cushman, 1,660, republicans; James J. Anderson, Howard
Hathaway and W. T. Beck, democrats, 652, 644 and 649, respectively ; George
Croston, H, D. Jory, and T. C. Wiswell, socialists, 288, 287, and 286; Henry
Brown and F. B. Hawes, prohibitionists, 71 each; William Bontain, R. Mc-
Donald, and G. Norling, socialist labor, 29, 29, 28. The republican candidates
for Supreme Judge, F. H. Rudkin and Mark A. Fullerton, received 1,646 and
1,733, respectively, while the democrat, Alfred Battle, had 747. The two
candidates for governor, A. E. Meed, republican, had 1,277, and the democrat,
George Turner, had 1,173. For the legislature in what was now the 13th dis-
trict, J. P. Sharp, republican had 1,484 to 938 for the democrat, M. E. Flynn.
For representatives in the Nineteenth district, Andrew Olson, republican, had
1,545, G. E. Dickson, republican, had 1,403, E. L. Collins, democrat, had 923,
R. A. Turner, democrat, had 1,025, and William Smith, prohibitionist, had 71.
For judge of the superior court, H. B. Rigg, republican, was victor with 1,425
to 1,022 for E. B. Preble, democrat. The democratic candidate for sheriff, L.
A. Thomas, had 1,427, to 1,152 for Isaac Brown, republican, and 7Z for W. M.
Jennings, prohibitionist. For clerk, A. E. Emerson, republican, had 1,804 to
128 for C. E. Bruner, prohibitionist.
For auditor the republican candidate, Dr. Mahan, had 1 to 1,319 for H. M.
Baldwin, democrat, and 74 for W. H. Bridge, prohibitionist.
For treasurer, the republican candidate, W. B. Price, gathered in 1,359
votes to 1,125 for W. J. Payne, democrat. Austin Mires, republican, for attor-
ney, had 1,389 to 818 for L. E. Campbell, democrat, and 289 for W. W. Bonney,
independent. For assessor, the republican, W. M. Kenney, was far in the
lead, 1,531, while T. B. Wright, democrat, and Luke L. Seeley, prohibitionist,
had 926 and 96 respectively; H. F. Blair, republican, for superintendent, had
1,585 to 913 for O. H. Kerns, democrat. The record for surveyor shows 1,548
for the republican candidate, A. F. York and 890 for the democratic, J. P. Bru-
ton. H. J. Felch was chosen coroner without opposition, having 1,860 votes.
The commissioner in first district was A. M. Wright, and in the second, John T.
Taylor, both republicans.
There was a special election in 1905 to supply the vacancy caused by the
death of State Senator J. P. Sharp. Arthur Gunn of Wenatchee was chosen.
Reaching now the intermediate election of 1906 we find interest to some
extent on the wane. For Congress, Messrs. Humphrey, Jones and Cushman
were reelected by votes of 1,245, 1,217 and 1,242 to an average of 650 for the
democratnc candidates. In the contest for representatives in the legislature,
G. E. Dickson and Andrew Olson, republicans, had 1,043 and 1,154 votes each
616 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
lo 1,000 and 691 for the democrats, H. M. lialdwiii and Andrew Wilson: social-
ist candidates appear in this election, J. F. Le Clerc and A. C. Norcross, with
190 and 178 respectively. For sheriff, W. E. Crowley, democrat, was chosen
over J. B. Becker, republican, and W. H. McKee, socialist, the votes being
1,300, 755 and 157. A republican clerk, George Sayles, was chosen by 1,002
to 943 for O. W. Ball, democrat, and H. D. Harkness, socialist, with a vote
of 943. The record for auditor shows 1,578 for the democrat, E. J. Matthews
to 977 for the republican, A. E. Emerson. For treasurer, W. D. Price, repub-
lican, had 1,413 to 800 for Frank Bossong, democrat. Chester R. Hovey, re-
publican, gathered in the office of attorney from A. L. Slemmons, by 1,139 to
856. James Heron, republican, became assessor with 1,082 votes to 884 for the
democrat and 181 for the socialist. C. S. Baker was chosen superintendent by
1,159 to 840 for the democrat W. A. Thomas. For surveyor the record is 1,203
for W. M. Emerson to 709 for the democrat and 200 for the socialist. For
coroner G. W. Steele, republican, had 1,361 to 221 for H. T. Williger, socialist,
William Adams became commissioner in the second district and J- N. Burch in
the third.
And now comes another presidential year, 1908. The republicans were
still far in the lead, though with some surprising exceptions. The Taft electors
obtained 1,752 votes to 985 for the Bryan electors, with 317 socialist and 64
prohibition. That record shows a total county vote of 3,118, denoting a marked
increase and worth remembering in comparison with later votes after woman
suft'rage came in. Since 1906 the congressional apportionment for the state had
been segregated into districts, and hence but one congressman appears. A new
deal was on and a new congressional luminary appears in the person of Miles
Poindexter. He was chosen to represent the fourth district by 1,684 votes over
William Goodyear, democrat, with 974. There came into existence this year
the nonpartisan judiciary system, and the votes for the three judges are inter-
esting, not as showing any comparison of parties, but the judges voted for and
the number of votes. Judges Crow, Root and Chadwick received 2,670, 2,648
and 2,648, each, being elected by large majorities.
For governor, S. G. Cosgrove received 1,772 to 1,002 for John Pattison,
democrat. For state senator in the thirteenth district, J. H. Smithson. republi-
can, was chosen with 1,716 votes to 1,072 for INIitchel Stevens, democrat, and
50 for the prohibitionist, George W. Siegel. The representatives for the nine-
teenth district were the republicans F. L. Calkins with 1,683 votes and J. C.
Hubbell with 1,758 against 1,103 for Joseph Watson and R. A. Turner, demo-
crats. Ralph Kauffman became judge of the Supreme Court. W. E. Crowley
for sheriff had an overwhelming vote. 1,991, over W. F. Lewis, 966. Mr. Crow-
ley was the democratic candidate. E. J. Matthews was another successful dem-
ocrat, having 1,552 to 1,351 for J. J. Putnam, republican, George Sayles, repub-
lican candidate for clerk, defeated Jacob J. Michaels by 1,625 to 1,199. For
treasurer T. C. Crimp was chosen without opposition. For attorney E. K.
Brown, republican, triumphed over the opposing democrat A. L. Slemmons by
1,544 to 1,341. For assessor the vote was 1,804 for James Heron, republican,
and 1,009 for J. H. Lee, democrat. Mrs. Genevieve L. Barklay was elected
superintendent, the democratic candidate, by 1,532 to 1,362 for C. S. Baker, re-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 617
publican. M. M. Emerson became engineer without opposition. T. S. Wasson
became coroner, A. M. Wright commissioner in first district and J. W. Burch
commissioner in third district.
Coming now to the election of 1910 we find a new choice in the congres-
sional field, W. L. LaFollette, republican, chosen by 1,303 votes to 405 for the
democrat, H. D. Merritt, and 209 for the socialist, D. C. Coates. We find as
representatives in the legislature for the nineteenth district, George E. Dickson
with 1,612 votes and J. C. Hubbell with 1,324, both republicans, and Mitchel
.Stevens, democrat, with 851. B. H. German was chosen sheriff without opposi-
tion.
The other county officers chosen follow: Clerk, W. Newstrum ; auditor,
James Heron ; treasurer, Fred Gihuour ; attorney, E. K. Brown ; assessor, G. C.
Estrem : superintendent, Mrs. Genevieve Barklay ; engineer, C. T. Jordan ;
coroner, T. S. Wasson ; commissioner first district, Isaac Brown ; commissioner
second district. William Adam. Of the county officers named above, Messrs.
German and Gilmour, and Mrs. Barklay were democrats. The others were
republicans.
WOM.AN SUFFR.^GE
One very notable vote took place in 1910.* For the third time the consti-
tutional amendment providing for woman suffrage was voted on. This time it
was successful. The vote in Kittitas County was 629 for to 366 against. The
most surprising thing is the smallness of the vote on this important subject.
There was a total vote of 995 votes as compared with 2,917 for congressmen.
It certainly speaks poorly for the intelligence and character of the male voters
that they so neglected to vote on this important question. It suggests, however,
that those who did vote acted wisely in enlarging the electorate.
The great year of 1912 has now come. Here we find a condition unprece-
dented in national politics.
The republican party had been so wrenched by internal differences that it
had split into the conservative and progressive factions. A political triangle
was formed similar in origin and outcome to the great triangle of 1,860 by which
the democratic party was rent in twain and that greatest of Americans, Abraham
Lincoln, became the first republican president. There is an extraordinary sim-
ilarity in the conjunction of events which made Lincoln president in 1860 and
that which made Wilson president in 1912.
It is within the range of probability that the future historian may write
these men in the same category in other respects also. The election of a demo-
cratic president was a foregone conclusion, but the state of Washington was one
of the small number of states to vote for the progressive candidate.
In examining the record of the vote of 1912 in Kittitas County we discover
the unusual fact that the electors of the six different presidential tickets re-
ceived exactly the same vote on each ticket as follows: Democratic, 1,407; pro-
gressive, 1,402; republican, 1,157; socialist, 515; prohibition, 142; socialist la-
bor, 33. This vote, it should be remembered, includes the women newly en-
dowed with political right. The election was such as to get out pretty much the
full strength, and hence the aggregate vote for president comes pretty nearly
representing the voting power of Kittitas County. This aggregate is 4,656.
618 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
In this election two congressmen-at-large were to be voted for throughout
the state. The following were the candidates and parties and votes: Republi-
cans, H. B. Dewey and J. E. Frost, with 1,437 and 1,797 votes respectively;
democrats, E. O. Conner and H. W. White, 1,137 and 1,164; progressive, J. W.
Bryan and J. A. Falconer, 1,334 and 1,560; socialists, S. E. Giles and Alfred
Wagenknecht, 472 and 455 ; prohibition, N. A. Thompson, 125.
For congressman from the fourth district, the result was this: Republican,
W. L. LaFollette, 1,704; democrat, R. Drumheller, 1,119; progressive, F. M.
Goodwin, 1,367; socialist, R. B. Alartin, 450.
For Governor, the democratic candidate, Ernest Lister, received 1,580 to
1,505 for Robert Hodges, progressive; M. E. Hay, republican, with 1,422; Anna
Alaley, socialist, with 411; G. F. Stivers, prohibitionist, with 114; A. L. Brear-
cliff, socialist labor, with 18. Ralph Kauffman was chosen to the superior
judgeship over John B. Davidson. For state senator C. H. Flummerfelt, demo-
crat, was elected with 2,258 votes to 1,044 for James E. Ferguson, republican.
1,006 for S. P. Beecher, progressive, and 401 for the socialist, O. D. Stoker.
For representative E. K. Brown, progressive, had 1,884 votes and his part-
ner, A. E. Elberson, had 1,411. The republicans, G. E. Dickson and J. C. Hub-
bell, had 1,353 and 1,306. The^ democrats, P. H. Adams and Charles Bull, had
1,828 and 1,647. The votes for local officers are also significant and will be
given in full. For sheriff, B. H. German, democrat, 2,691 : John F. Bowers,
republican, 1,155; S. E. Bunker, progressive, 965. For clerk, William News-
trum, republican, 2,104; J. A. Crimp, democrat, 1,682; progressive, W. F. Peter-
son, 837; auditor, James Heron, republican, 2,117; H. W. Baldwin, democrat,
1,625. Treasurer, Fred Gilmour, democrat, 2,375; W. A. Stainman, progres-
sive, 1,310. Attorney, F. A. Kern, progressive, 2,096; A. L. Slemmons, demo-
crat, 1,676; O. A. Falkner, republican, 134. Assessor, G. C. Estrem, progres-
sive, 1,675; C. G. Thomas, democrat, 1,453; E. G. Southern, republican, 1,265.
Superintendent, Mrs. Mary D. Boedcher, progressive, 2,266; Jennie W. Talbot,
republican, 1,344; Lillian Merryman, democrat, 1,225. Engineer, Charles T.
Jordan, without opposition. Coroner, R. A. Rose, republican, 2,043 ; W. K.
Briley, progressive, 1,328; W. L. Jackson, democrat, 1,226. Commissioner for
second district, H. G. McNeil, progressive.
CONSTITUTION.\L AMENDMENTS
A special matter of utmost importance in the development of the political
system of the state was the submission to the electorate in 1912 of three great
constitutional amendments. These were the Recall, Initiative and Referendum,
and Prohibition. Kittitas County, as almost all of eastern Washington, and
enough of western Washington to make a majority, went affirmative on these
propositions. In the county: Recall: yes 1,459; No, 541. Initiative and Refer-
endum: Yes, 1,418; no, 503. Prohibition: Yes, 3,016; Nb. 2,638. It is rather
significant to note how much greater vote was called out on the last. It is sur-
mised that women had not become much interested in the former questions, but
their sentiments were roused to the full on prohibition.
ELECTION OF 1914
The seventeenth amendment to the federal constitution went into operation
for the first time in the state this year, though it had been duly passed some
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 619
years earlier. It was not an unaccustomed process, however, for popular sena-
torial nomination had supplanted legislative choice for several years.
The total vote for senator was 6,030, divided thus : W. L. Jones, republi-
can, 1,746; Ole Hanson, progressive, 1,647; W. W. Black, democrat, 1,447;
Adam H. Barth, socialist, 412; A. S. Caton, prohibition, 158. For representa-
tive fourth district, W. L. LaFollette, republican, 1,988; Roscoe Drumheller,
democrat, 1,377.
Representatives in legislature : J. C. Hubbell, republican, 2,944 ; Philip H.
Adams, democrat, 2,494; C. T. Jordan, democrat, 1,280; E. K. Brown, progres-
sive, 2,047; sheriff. Hod Harmon, republican, 1,987; Howard Garrison, dem-
ocrat, 2,329; P. W. Stenger, progressive, 966. Clerk: F. T. Hofmann, progres-
sive, 1,847; Frank Taylor, democrat, 1,616; William B. Price, republican, 1,563.
Auditor: Walter G. Damerow, republican, 2,403; E. G. Heron, progressive,
1,657; L. L. Geeslin, democrat, 953. Treasurer: Maud Gilmour, democrat,
2,619 Roy Burch, republican, 2,033 ; G. C. Estrem, progressive, 633. Attorney :
F. A. Kern, progressive, 3,065; Edward Pruyn, republican, 1,698. Assessor:
Mrs. L. A. Kenney, republican, 2,481; W. P. Hiddleson, democrat, 1,572; B. A.
Gault, progressive, 1,083. Superintendent: Mary A. Boedcher, without oppo-
sition. Engineer: M. M. Emerson, republican, 1,974; H. A. Murray, progres-
sive, 1,792; Max L. Mook, democrat, 1,316. Commissioners: first district,
Louis Larson, and second district, H. G. McNeil, both without opposition.
An important group of initiative measures, several designed to modify the
prohibition amendment, were voted on in this election. All were defeated, most
of them so overwhelmingly as to make it almost needless to caunt the votes.
This was true in the state as well as county.
ELECTION OF 1916
We reach in this election one of the most exciting presidential elections in
the history of the country.
After the great split of 1912 the two wings of the republican party joined
in the nomination of the "Sphinx" of the party, C. E. Hughes. It certainly
looked as though there might be a republican administration. And so there
would have been, had it not been for the West. There was as intense a struggle
over the governorship and the senatorship as the presidency. The adherents
of Turner and Poindexter respectively and of Lister and McBride felt equally
that the country would be saved or lost as their candidate rose or fell. The
results of the election were full of surprises, the greatest of which was that
Washington, normally a republican state by 50,000 or 60.000, went for Wilson
by 16,594 plurality.
The result in Kittitas County was for presidential electors : highest repub-
lican, 2,310; highest democrat, 2,609; prohibition, 93; socialist, 262; socialist
labor, 8. A total of 5,282, somewhat less than in 1914 and a good deal more
than in 1912.
The senatorial contest resulted in 2,891 for the republican Poindexter and
1,932 for the democrat Turner. There were 294 socialist, 55 prohibition and 8
progressive. To that sorry depth the great progressive party had fallen, a
worse tumble than the populist party had taken. For representative in the
fourth district LaFollette, republican, had 2,961 votes and Masterson, demo-
620. HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
crat, had 1,754, with 257 for the sociaHst candidate. The result in the guber-
national contest was close, and even in doubt in the state, but Lister pulled
through with 13,840 majority. In the county Lister's vote was 2,557 to 2,409
for -McBride, republican. The lesser candidates had 335 in all. For state sen-
ator, J. B. Adams, republican, had 2,520 to 2,081 for J. H. Ferryman, democrat.
For representative J. C. Hubbell, republican, had 3,319, and D. O. Kearby,
Republican, had 3,405. There was no opposing candidate in either case. For
.sheriff, Howard Garrison, democrat, received 3,008, with no opposing candi-
date. Clerk, Fred T. Hofman, and for auditor W. G. Damerow, both republi-
cans. Treasurer: Maud Gilmour, democrat, was reelected with 2,761 to 2,303
for her republican competitor, James Heron. Attorney: Arthur L. AIcGuire,
democrat, with 2,499 votes, was chosen over Newton Henton, republican, 2,412.
For assessor: Mrs. Lillian A. Kenney, republican, 2,820; Hugh Fish, dem-
ocrat, 2,120. Superintendent: S. A. Bartlett, without opposition. Engineer:
H. A. Murray, without opposition. Commissioners : in first district, J. W. Ger-
man : in second district, James Lane. For the superior court, Raljih Kauttman
and John B. Davidson were again pitted against each other, with the result of
1,(>06 votes for the former and 2,230 for the latter.
Some additions to the voting precincts give the following as the present
organization: Cle Elum, Columbia River, East Kittitas, Easton, Ellensburg,
Kittitas, Liberty, Menashtash, Mountain, Mountain View, North Ellenburg,
North Kittitas, Peoh Point, Roslyn, Roza, South Cle Elum, South Roslyn,
Spencer Creek, Swauk-Taneum, Teanaway, Trinidad, Tunnel Camp, Ump-
tanum, I'pper Teanaway, West Kittitas.
ELECTION OF 1918
This election, occurring while this work is in progress, resulted as follows:
Votes
Cast.
For Referendum Xo. 10 1,099 For county clerk—
Against Referendum No. 10 909 M. A. Hofmann, rep. 1,.S42
For representatives in congress.
Fourth District —
J. W. Summers, rep. 1,486
Wm. E. McCroskey, dem. 975
Walter Price, soc. 123
.\. T. Gregory, dem. 1,061
I*'or County Auditor —
M. R. Dixon, rep. 2.006
For county treasurer —
W. G. Damerow, rep. 2,056
I'or county attorney — ■
For state representatives— A. L. McGuire, dem. 1,438
J. C. Hubbell, rep. 1.664 For county assessor —
G. P. Short, rep. 1785 ^^'- B. Price, rep. 1,374
S. R. Justham. dem 1.070 W. P. Hiddleson, dem 1,202
P . .-. l''or superintendent of schools
J. W. Thomas, rep. L567
A. Bartlett, rep. 2.007
For county engineer-
Frank Taylor, dem. 1,121 H. A. 'Murray, rep. 1,927
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 621
For coroner— T. B. Wright, dem. 945
Murvv L. Bridghain, rep. 1,959 For county commissioners Third
For county commissioners Second Dist. —
Dist. — J. F. Duncan, rep. 1,552
Wm. Adam, rep. 1,571 W. C. Fields, dem. 77i
This election was summarized and commented on as follows by the "Record"
immediately after.
Republicans apparently won every contest in Kittitas County and cast a
majority of several hundred for Dr. Summers, the republican nominee for
Congress. Initiative measure No. 10 was carried in this county despite a big
wet majority in Roslyn and Cle Elum. The county voted against a constitu-
tional convention and rolled up substantial majorities for Judges Mount, Main
and Mitchell.
The closest race in the county was between W. B. Price and W. P. Hiddle-
son for county assessor. Price apparently having won by a fair majority. Joe
Thomas defeated Frank Taylor for sheriff in both parts of the county, while
Mrs. Hofmann was an easy winner over Gregorv^ for county clerk.
William Adam in the second and J. F. Duncan in the third districts were
easy winners for county commissioners.
C. P. Short was leading man in the race for the legislature, with J. C.
Hubbell a close second, while Simon R. Justham (Kid Simon) was a poor third,
losing precincts in his home territory.
Returns from all six Ellensburg precincts, North and South Ellensburg,
Kittitas, East Kittitas, South Kittitas, North Kittitas, West Kittitas, Menashtash,
both Roslyn wards, both Cle Elum wards, South Roslyn, Mountain and Mountain
View, give the following totals :
For convention, 362 ; against convention, 374.
For Bone Dry, 990: against Bone Dry, 708.
Summers, 1,324; McCrosky, 869.
Hubbell, 1,497; Short, 1,677; Justham, 959.
Thomas, 1,409; Taylor, 985.
Hofmann, 1,372; Gregory, 902.
Dixon, 1,255; Damerow, 1,824; McGuire, 904.
Price, 1,228; Hiddleson, 1,036.
Bartlett 1.300; Murray, 1,229; Bridgham, 1,254.
Adam, 1,370; Wright, 777.
Duncan, 1,298; Fields, 695.
Mitchell. 1,310; Main, 1,002; Chapman, 695; Pemberton, 566; Mills, 372;
Mount, 897.
Mackintosh, 978 ; Tolman 812.
The above figures do not include all the precincts on some of the uncon-
tested offices as in several instances the people reporting the figures to "The
Record" failed to even take down figures on candidates where there was no
opposition.
L.VTER GENER.\L HISTORY OF COUNTY.
To considerable degree the foregoing outline of the political history of the
county gives also the salient features of its general history.
622 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
During the period from 1889 to the date of this pubhcation the county
has made a solid, substantial, though not extraordinary growth. The popula-
tion in 1890 was 8,777. It was estimated at 25,027 on July 1, 1917.
During this period the valley has developed from a range cattle country
into a hay and dairy country with also extensive fruit interests. It is the great
timothy hay section on the Pacific Coast and constitutes the main supply for the
Sound cities. In 1880 the hay crop was estimated at 50,000 tons, worth prob-
ably $400,000. The chief sources of income during the period since 1900 and
at the jiresent are hay, coal, timber, fruit, stock, wool and precious metals.
L'ndoubtedly during the later years of Kittitas liistory, besides the general
development of which we have just spoken, the matters of greatest public inter-
est may be summed up under the heads of irrigation, coal mines and the found-
ing and development of the Normal School.
IRRIGATION.
\\'e have given in the chapter on Irrigation in Part II a view of the great
reservoir works at the lakes. We have also given there a view of the general
irrigation development of the Yakima Valley as a whole.
In the chapter preceding this may be found some added facts relative to
the pioneer canals in the Kittitas. We may add here some features of present
interest not given elsewhere in regard to the large canals of this immediate
region. We derive these facts directly from the officers of these canals in
Ellen sburg.
The Cascade Canal Company established one of the three larger important
irrigating enterprises of the valley. It now furnishes water for about 12.500 acres
of land in the very heart of the valley. At the present date H. B. Carroll is
secretary.
A change has recently been effected in the ownership and management of
this canal by which it has become a municipal corporation under state law after
the fashion which has been encouraged by the Federal Government. Certain
data in regard to the existing organization furnished to. the author by Mr. Car-
roll, is of such interest and value that we incorporate at this point part of a
panii)hlet issued by the district, to which is added a transcript of the proceedings
relative to the formation of the district. This may be regarded as an example
of the usual procedure in such cases.
INFORMATION RELATIVE TO $700,000.00 BOND ISSUE.
BY CASCADE IRRIGATION DISTRICT, KITTITAS COUNTY.
The Cascade Irrigation District is issuing $700,000.00 of six per cent, bonds,
bearing six per cent, interest, payable semi-annually. There will be ten series,
five per cent, of the principal being payable in eleven years and an increasing
one per cent, each year thereafter except for the eighteenth year, when thirteen
per cent, of the principal is re-payable, the nineteenth year when fifteen per
cent, is re-payable. This leaves the balance, sixteen per cent, payable at the
expiration of twenty years. The bonds will be issued in denomination.s of
$500.00 and have attached coupons for the interest payments. They are issued
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 623
under the provisions of the law of the state of Washington passed in the year
18'X), being sections 6430, 6431 and 6432 of Remington-Ballinger's code, and the
acts amendatory thereof. The bonds are really of the nature of local improve-
ment bonds, as the law provides that they shall be paid by taxes arising from
assessments levied upon all the property situated within the district.
This irrigation district was organized under the provisions of the irrigation
law previouslv mentioned. A petition signed by practically all the land owners
in the district was filed with the county commissioners in the latter part of the
year 1912 and when the matter was submitted to a vote of the district it was
carried by a vote of 46 for the district and 2 against the district. Thereafter
the district was organized and a board of directors was chosen and the question
of bond issue was submitted to the voters and it carried unanimously. Pro-
ceedings were then begun in the Superior Court of Kittitas County, state of
Washington, to have the validity of the bonds passed upon under the provisions
of the law and the same were confirmed on May 5, 1913. A transcript of the
proceedings has been printed and can be furnished upon application. The bond
issue has already been approved by attorneys for a firm which is supplying the
district with about $31,000 worth of flume. The legality of similar proceedings
and bond issues has been fully passed upon and approved by the Supreme Court
of this state in several cases decided some years ago, so that any one dealing
with these bonds can find every point covered by decisions.
The district itself is acquiring the canal and water rights formerly owned
by the Cascade Canal Company, which was a private corporation but the stock-
holders of which were nearly all land owners within the territory now embraced
within the district. The canal has been successfully operated for about nine
years and the idea in changing it from a private company to a public corporation
is to provide for a more equitable distribution of the burden of keeping up the
canal, and also to provide the additional credit afforded from the actual pledging
of the lands within the district. The old company at the present time owes
$112,000 of bonds and a small amount of floating debt. There are outstanding
something over 9,000 shares of stock which are to be retired at $20.00 per
share, and if desired these stockholders are willing to take bonds of the district
in exchange for their stock.
The main reason, however, for obtaining additional money at this time is
to have funds to substitute for several miles of flume which is not in a safe
condition, a permanent and reliable conduit. This will comprise some 2,000
feet of tunnel which will replace a portion of the flume which is upon an insecure
foundation. The balance of the flume will be replaced by either metal or con-
crete structure. Practically all of the canal, aside from that previously men-
tioned, is earth construction and a sum has been allotted from the amount to be
thus raised to enlarge this earth canal so that it will carry the quantity of water
to which the district will be entitled. This will give the district a first-class
canal and insure a reliable supply throughout the season and at a very low cost
for maintenance. The farmers under this canal have been paying $3.00 an acre
for their water maintenance, and figuring six per cent, on their stock would
make a total annual charge of something over $4.00 per acre. They have paid
this without difficulty previously and are willing to pay more if necessarv, but
624 HISTORY OF YAKBIA \'ALLEY
the average under the proposed change will be about $4.00 per acre, so that their
burden will not be increased and they will secure a more ample and reliable
water supply.
A summary of this engineering work has been prepared and is supplied
herewith.
The water for the canal comes from the Yakima River during the earlier
portion of the year and when the flow in the river gets low the water is supplied
from storage from Lake Kachess. Several years ago the Cascade Canal Com-
pany entered into a contract with the United States Government by which the
right of the company is recognized to 150 cubic feet of water per second of time
from the river up to tfie 20th of July of each year, and thereafter they are entitled
to obtain 16,800-acre feet of water up to October 15th of each year. This water
right would cover every acre of land in the district to a depth of nearly four feet.
This furnishes an ample, reliable water supply for all the land within the district
throughout the irrigating season. The contract further provides that from
October 15th to March 15th of the following year the Company is entitled to a
continuous flow not to exceed 30-second feet, this being for stock and domestic
purposes. This water is supplied by the Government to the company in the
latter's flume without any cost for maintenance. Lake Kachess, where the water
is stored, is about six miles long and from three-quarters to a mile in width and
has a drainage area of 64 square miles and a mean annual run-oft of 219,000-
acre feet. The water is stored by means of an earth dam with a concrete core
wall and a reenforced concrete outlet conduit. The outlet conduit taps the lake
thirty feet below the ordinary level making available sixty feet of storage. The
capacity of the reservoir is 210,000 acre feet. This is a very valuable water
right now available without any expense as the result of a settlement made with
the Government at the time they took over storage works, the Cascade Canal
Company having previously built a small dam at the foot of the lake which
stored all the water that they needed.
The district consists of a strip of land from one to three miles in width
situated in the Kittitas Valley and north of the city of Ellensburg. It com-
prises all the territory north of the canal of the Ellensburg Water Company
and south of the canal of the Cascade Canal Company and contains about 12,800
acres of land after excepting some small tracts which were excluded because of
having creek rights or being uses for townsite purposes, and also excluding the
right-of-way of the Chicago, Milwaukee & Puget Sound Railway Company,
which traverses the district through most of its length. It is nearly all first-class
farming land and sells for farming purposes at from $150.00 to $250.00 per
acre. The entire district is inhabited by industrious, law-abiding citizens, and
is well supplied with schools and good roads, has complete mail delivery and
telephone service and a portion is served by electric lights. It surrounds the
town of Kittitas, comprising several hundred people and is just north of the
city of Ellensburgh. and in addition to the transportation afforded by the Chi-
cago, Milwaukee & Puget Sound Railway Company it is also sen-ed by the
Northern Pacific Railway Company. It is about 125 miles from Puget Sound
and it is the nearest valley thereto east of the mountains and it therefore enjoys
the lowest freight rates and its product find ready sale and at good prices.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 625
The principal farm products of tlie district are alfalfa, timotliy and clover
hay, wheat, oats, barley, vegetables and fruits, including apples, pears, prunes,
cherries and plums. On account of the light rainfall during the growing season
irrigation is necessary to produce crops. Hay is the principal crop of the dis-
trict. In some cases timothy is grown alone, but the usual custom is to grow
alfalfa and timothy mixed, which produces a desirable hay for market with an
increased tonnage over timothy. Two crops of alfalfa are cut and the third
crop usually pastured, although occasionally the third crop is cut for hay. The
average yield of alfalfa is from 3>^ to 5 tons per acre, and the average price
for a tenyear period about $11.00 per ton. No. 1 "mixed" hay has fluctuated
in value from $10.00 to $24.00 per ton, the average for the past ten years being
about $15.00. Pure timothy brings $2.00 to $4.00 per ton more than "mixed"
hay. In irrigating hay land both the furrow and flooding systems are used.
The periods of irrigation vary with the soil and local conditions, being from one
to four weeks. There is also considerable dairying and stock raising in the dis-
trict, and nearly every farmer raises some potatoes and grain. Some of the land
is well suited to fruit raising, and quite a number of fine orchards are now
situated within the district. The oldest of these are just coming into bearing
and within a few years the fruit will be a very important crop.
A considerable portion of this bond issue can be taken care of here. In
addition to that which the stockholders have agreed to take in exchange for
their stock about $20,000 has already been placed, and the balance can probably
be sold in blocks to suit the purchaser.
There are several other canals being operated in the valley, the principal
ones being those of the West Side Irrigating Company and the Ellensburg
Water Company. Both of these have been operated for over 25 years. The
land under all these ditches is in a high state of cultivation, the farmers are
prosperous and a very small proportion of the land is mortgaged under any of
the three canals.
It is estimated that there are about 250 farms within the district exclusive
of small-tract holdings, of which there are quite a number near the city of
Ellensburg. There are about 400 people living within the irrigation district.
The canal which the district is purchasing was completed in the year 1904
and has cost about $250,000, exclusive of maintenance charges.
The assessed valuation for irrigation district purposes is something over
$509,000. This is somewhat less than the county valuations as an attempt has
been made to reduce the higher valuations for the purpose of equalizing the tax
within the district. The irrigation district embraces portions of five country
school districts and also portions of the districts within which the city of Ellens-
burg and town of Kittitas are situated and all the school houses are situated
within a half mile of the boundaries of the irrigation district.
The school district embracing Kittitas has $10,000 bonded debt and that
embracing Ellensburg has $130,000 of bonded debt. None of the other school
districts have any bonded debt. The county of Kittitas has about $100,000 of
bonded debt.
(40)
626 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
SUMMARY OF ENGINEER'S PRELIMINARY REPORT ON IMPROVEMENTS TO CASCADE
CANAL.
The headgates of the Cascade Canal are located at a point on the east bank
of the Yakima River about 4>4 rniles northwest of the village of Thorp, Wash-
ington. From here to the crossing of the Northern Pacific Railway, near Dudley
Station (a distance of about 8,000 feet), the present canal closely follows the
easterly bank of the river. From this point the canal runs along the base of the
foothills, in a general southeasterly direction, to a point on the east line of sec-
tion 18, township 18 north, range 18 east, Willamette Meridian, a distance of
approximately 34,850 feet, .^t this point the line turns sharply to the eastward
through a short tunnel piercing a ridge of the foothills, and thence, for a distance
of approximately 7,800 feet, to a point on the easterly slope of Dry Creek canyon
situated about 565 feet east of the quarter post between sections 8 and 17. town-
ship 18 north, range 18 east.
From this point the canal extends in a general southeasterly direction for
about 30 miles, gradually encircling the valley to a point near the northeast
corner of section 32, township 17 north, range 19 east, Willamette Meridian.
Throughout this distance of 30 miles, the water is carried in an open ditch of
approximately 90-second feet capacity at the upper end and gradually decreas-
ing in size toward the lower end.
From the intake to Dry Creek, the water is carried almost entirely in a
wooden flume of about 90 second feet capacity, the present improvements being
designed principally to replace this wooden construction.
The following table shows the length of the various kinds of construction
now in use on this section of the canal :
Table I.
Kind of Construction — Length.
Wooden flume 31,930 feet
Unlined earth canal 18,734 feet
Tunnel (timber lining) 5.^5 feet
Total distance along present canal from intake to Dry
Creek 31,210 feet
(Same as in first report, to end of Table 1)
The improvements planned contemplate the extension of the present intake
about 200 feet upstream : straightening of canal alignment whereever practicable :
the use of unlined earth canal in place of flume when possible: the use of steel
and concrete flume in place of the present wooden flume : four short tunnels in
addition to the one now in use ; the lining with concrete of the present tunnel
and the enlargement of the present earth canal throughout its entire length.
The capacity of the canal will be increased to 150-second feet in order that the
full water right may be made use of. The following table indicates the approxi-
mate length of the various kinds of construction planned :
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 627
Table II.
Kind of Construction — Length.
Aletal flume 24,244 feet
Tunnels (four, concrete lined) 2,874 feet
Lining present tunnel with concrete 555 feet
Concrete flume 2,044 feet
Earth canal 19,134 feet
Concrete-lined canal 645 feet
Railroad crossing 32 feet
Total distance along proposed canal alignment from
intake to Dry Creek 49,528 feet
The proposed relocation and reconstruction of the canal, from intake to
Dry Creek, eliminates many bad bends in the present alignment ; places the flume
out of range of falling boulders and provides ample clearance underneath for the
passage of drainage water and soil accumulations from the hillsides, and gives
a permanent, efficient conduit which will result in a minimum of expense for
maintenance and inspection. The average grade of the new conduit is 2.4 feet
per mile.
From Dry Creek to end of canal, a distance of 30 miles, the present ditch
is too small to carry the increased supply of water and it is proposed to enlarge
and otherwise improve this section to conform to the improvements on the upper
ten-mile section.
This enlargement of the canal, together with the installation of an improved
form of outlet weir at the laterals proportioned for the "cubic-foot per second
of time" method of measurement, instead of the obsolete "miners' inch," will
place the Cascade Canal system in a position second to none in the valley in
point of efficiency and up-to-dateness.
TRANSCRIPT OF PROCEEDINGS
The Cascade Irrigation District is organized under the laws of the state
of Washington, under the provisions of sections 6416 to 6494, Remington &
Ballinger's code. This law has been amended in some particulars by an act
found in the laws of 1913 at page 558.
The status of the same kind of corporations has been quite definitely fixed
by the decisions of the supreme court of the state of Washington. On the con-
stitutionality of the law see
Board of Directors vs. Peterson, 19 Wash. 147: 29 Pac. Rep. 995.
State ex rel. Witherop vs. Brown, 19 Wash. 383 : 53 Pac. Rep. 548.
As affecting the status of the district see also
Kinkade vs. Witherop, 29 Wash. 10 ; 69 Pac. Rep. 399.
Rothchild Bros. vs. Rollinger, 32 Wash. 307 ; 73 Pac. Rep. 367.
In the late case of Hanson vs. Kittitas Reclamation district, reported in
33 Washington decisions at page 194 and 34 Pacific reports, 1083, the binding
628 HISTORY OF YAKBIA \'ALLEY
effect of the special proceedings for confirmation hereinafter set out is quite
fullv determined.
In the matter of the petition for the organization of an irrigation district to
be known as the Cascade Irrigation district.
Notice is hereby given that on Monday, the 6th da}' of January, 1913, at
the hour of 9 o'clock in the forenoon, at the meeting place of the board of
commissioners of Kittitas County, Washington, in the city of Ellensburg, the
petition following this notice praying for the organization of the Cascade Irri-
gation district will be presented to said board of county commissioners for hear-
ing, as provided by law ; the persons giving this notice being the same as the
signers of said petition.
.Dated December 18, 1912.
Then follow the same signatures as those attached to the petition next
hereafter given with the exception of that of J. H. Smithson.
In the matter of the petition for the organization of an irrigation district
to be known as the Cascade Irrigation district.
To the honorable board of county commissioners of Kittitas County, state
of Washington:
We, the undersigned, holders of title and evidence of title to land within
the boundaries hereinafter stated and which lands are all susceptible of irriga-
tion from one source, do hereby pray for an order of your board constituting
the land situate within the hereinafter described boundaries to be an irrigation
district under the laws of the state of Washington, being the act of said state
entitled, "An act providing for the organization and government of irrigation
districts and the sale of bonds arising therefrom, and declaring an emergency,"
approved March 20, 1890, and the acts amendatory and supplementary thereto.
The proposed boundaries of such district are as follows : [Here follow boun-
daries.]
Excepting from the foregoing body of land the right-of-way of the Chi-
cago, Milwaukee & Puget Sound Railway Company and the land embraced in
the plat of the town of Kittitas.
.Ml the lands embraced in said boundaries are situated within Kittitas
County, Washington, and the undersigned petitioners ask that upon the hearing
of this petition the boundaries of such proposed district be defined and that the
same be known as the Cascade Irrigation district and that an election be ordered
for the selection of three directors of said district to be chosen at large, and
that proper notice be given of the election for the purpose of determining
whether or not said district shall be organized and for the selection of said
three directors at large, and that all further acts that may now or hereafter be
required by the laws of this state be taken by said hoard.
This petition is accompanied by a bond of three hundred dollars (^.^OO.OO")
with sureties and conditions as provided by law.
Dated December 18, 1912.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 629
CASCADE IRRIGATION CANAL.
In the matter of the petition to the county commissioners of Kittitas
County, state of Washington, for the organization of an irrigation district to
be known as Cascade Irrigation district.
Now on this fourteenth day of January, 1913, at the hour of ten o'clock
in the forenoon, the petition of T. T. Wilson, and others, praying for the or-
ganization of an irrigation district to be designated as the Cascade Irrigation
district ( came tegularly on for hearing, said hearing having been regularly ad-
journed from January 6, 1913, to January 13, 1913, and from January 13th to
this date, and the board having carefully considered said petition and having
heard proof and having heard all parties interested in the matter of such peti-
tion, and being fully advised in the premises, finds as follows :
1. That said petition is duly signed by more than fifty holders of title and
evidence of title to land in said proposed district, and that said land is suscep-
tible of one mode of irrigation from a common source and by the same system
of works, and that said petition is regular in form, and sufficient to confer jur-
isdiction upon said board of commissioners.
2. That said petition, together with a notice stating the time of the meet-
ing of the board at which it would be presented, was published in the "Ellens-
burg Capital," a weekly newspaper printed and published in the city of Ellens-
burg, in the county of Kittitas, state of Washington, for the period of more
than two weeks immediately preceding the time designated in said notice for
the hearing of said petition by the board.
3. That said petition sets forth and particularly describes the proposed
boundaries of said district, and that all the land included in said description and
in the boundaries hereinafter mentioned are situated in the county of Kittitas,
state of Washington.
4. That said petition was duly presented to said board by the petitioners
at the time and place mentioned in said notice ; and the petitioners accompanied
the petition with a good and sufficient bond in double the amount of the prob-
able cost of organizing such district, to-wit. in the penal sum of three hundred
dollars ($300.00), conditioned that the bondsmen will pay all costs of organ-
izing such district in case such organization shall not be affected, and which
said bond was duly approved by the board of county commissioners.
5. That certain lands (hereinafter described) which were included in the
boundaries as proposed by the petition were excluded by said board for the
reason that in the judgment of said board, they would not be benefitted by irri-
gation by said system, and that they have a sufficoent water supply for irrigation
from other sources.
6. Said board further finds that on January 8, 1913, the board of director.s
of Middle Kittitas Irrigation district, which embraces a portion of the lands
sought to be included in this irrigation district, consented to the inclusion with-
in the proposed Cascade Irrigation district all of the lands situate within the
boundaries of the said Middle Kittitas Irrigation district, which this board may
see fit to include therein.
7. That the said proposed district shall be known and designated as the
"Cascade Irrigation District" and that the jietitioners have requested and pray
630 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
that the three {3) directors of said district be elected at Large, and that their
request in, that behalf be granted and said three directors shall be elected by the
district at large.
8. That for the purpose of the election for the organization of said dis-
trict and for the election of said directors, there shall be established two elec-
tion precincts as hereinafter described, and that inspectors and judges of elec-
tion shall be appointed by the board, and that an election shall be held and notice
thereof given, for the purpose of determining whether or not said district shall
be organized, and for the purpose of electing three directors at large.
Now Therefore, The premises being considered it is now and here ordered
that the prayer contained in said petition be and the same is hereby granted and
that said proposed irrigation district shall be known and designated as the
Cascade Irrigation District.
(Then follows the same description as that given in the petition, with the
additional exceptions contained in the petition for confirmation hereinafter set
out.)
And it is further ordered that an election shall be held in said proposed
irrigation district Saturday the 15th day of February, 1913, for the purpose of
permitting the voters to decide whether such district shall be organized or not,
under the provisions of the laws of the state of Washington, relating to irriga-
tion districts, and for the purpose of the election of three directors at large from
said district to serve as such directors until their successors are regularly elected
and qualified ; and that for the purpose of the election herein provided for, there
is hereby established two election precincts, within the boundaries of said dis-
trict, to wit:
All the territory west of the east boundary line of sections three and ten in
township seventeen north, range nineteen E., W. M., and north of the south-
ern boundary of said section ten shall be known as election precinct No. 1.
All the territory east of said eastern boundar\' and south of said southern
boundary of section ten shall be known as election precinct No. 2.
It is further ordered that the voting places for election precinct No. 1 shall
be at the dwelling house of Simon Longmire. in the southwest quarter of the
southwest quarter of section thirty-one, township eighteen, range eighteen E.,
W. AI., and that there are hereby appointed Blake Beatty as inspector and \V. W.
Spurling and A. R. Besgrove as judges of election in said precinct ; that the
voting place for election precinct No. 2 shall be at the school house of school
district No. 12, situate in the southwest quarter of the northeast quarter of sec-
tion 25, township 17 north, range 19 E., W. M., and that there are hereby
appointed Oliver Robinson as inspector and J. \\'. Boston and F. E. Lowe as
judges of election in said precinct.
And it is further ordered that notice of election aforesaid shall be given
in the manner and form and for the length of time required by law.
SPI-XI.\L MEETING OF THE BOARD OF COUNTY COMMISSIONERS. HELD FEBRl'ARV 24.
1913.
The ballots of the election held for the Cascade Irrigation district, cast at
the election held February 15, 1913, were canvassed and the board finds there-
from, that in precinct No. 1, thirteen votes were in favor of said district, and
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 631
two votes against the same, and in precinct No. 2, thirty-three votes were in
favor of said district, and there were no votes against the same, making a total
of forty-six votes for said district and two votes against the same.
The board further finds that for directors of said district, T. T. Wilson
received forty-six votes, H. B. Snider forty-three votes, and R. L. Mudd received
forty-three votes, and Simon Longmire received nine votes, and the board finds
therefrom that T. T. Wilson, H. B. Snider and R. L. Mudd were elected
directors of said district; and it is now declared that the Cascade Irrigation dis-
trict is duly organized as an irrigation district and shall be known as the Cascade
Irrigation district.
It is further ordered by the board that a copy of this order, duly certified,
be immediately filed for record in the office of the county clerk of Kittitas County.
STATE OF WASHINGTON,
County of Kittitas,
ss:
I, James Heron, auditor of Kittitas County, state of Washington, do hereby
certify that the foregoing papers and proceedings which are said to be on file in
my office are filed in said office, and that all copies given are true and correct
copies of the instruments which they purport to copy.
(Seal) James Heron,
Auditor of Kittitas County, State of Washington.
Another of the historic irrigation organizations is the Ellensburg Water
Company, often referred to as the "Town Ditch Company." The canal of this
company covers about 12,000 acres near Ellensburg. The company has become
entirely a joint-stock company, the property owned by share-holders, who are
themselves the water-users. The holders own a share to an acre. The cost
of maintenance runs from $1 to $2 an inch. C. H. Stewart is the secretary at
the present time.
The third of these principal canals is the West Side Irrigating Ditch. The
water for this canal is taken from the Yakima River, two miles or more above
Thorp, and is conveyed to about 7,000 acres on the west side. This is also a
shareholders corporation of water-users and thus owned and managed entirely
in the interest of the locality. At this date J. H. Prater is president and A. T.
Gregory is secretary of the corporation.
By far the largest irrigation proposition, the largest that ever can exist in
the Kittitas Valley, is the "High Line" Canal. This has been in process of
consideration for many years. Of the earlier stages we have spoken in the
chapter on Irrigation. After many phases this great enterprise assumed definite
form as a result of the assumption by the Government of the creation of reser-
voir sites at the head of the river and the development of canals throughout
the Sunnyside, Tieton, Wapato, and Benton districts. It became plain to the
people of Kittitas that the future of their big canal system must lie with the
Government reclamation work. As a result, the Kittitas Reclamation district
was organized September 14, 1911, under the provisions of the Warren act.
By the terms of this act the district becomes a municipal corporation under
state law. A regular tax of five cents an acre is levied on the land included and
this is collected by the county treasurer. By vote of the district, in which every
632 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
owner of land is included, a bond issue of $5,000,000 has been authorized for
raising funds to carry on development. The Government has adopted the policy
of investing funds in bonds of this character.
In pursuance of that policy the Government has authorized taking $880,000
of these Kittitas District bonds. Prior to the war all indications pointed to an
early and favorable disposition of the remainder of the bonds. The war has
stopped further proceedings, but there is no cjuestion that as soon as peace
returns the financing of the "High Line"' will be resumed. It has such possi-
bilities that it can not fail to be one of the most successful of the large enter-
prises. The area in the district is 93,000 acres, of which 80,000 are irrigable,
and 71,000 have been authorized for receiving water. The water supply will
come from Lake Keechelus, and the canal will pass in a great semi-circle along
the edge of the foothill belt north of Ellensburg to the eastern margin of the
valley and thence along the northern edge of the Yakima ridge toward the gap
south of Ellensburg. This official organization of the district consists of three
trustees, a president and a secretary chosen by the district. The president at
this date is Thomas Haley and the secretary is F. A. Kern. The trustees are
John Catlin, Thomas Haley, and Henry Richards. The term of Mr. Catlin is
to expire on January 1, 1919, and Fred C. Schnebly has been chosen to a
trusteeship beginning at that date.
RAILROADS
In the chapter on Transportation we have given a view of railway building
through the valley as a whole, from Kennewick to the Stampede Tunnel. We
may add more specifically to what has been given there that the first passenger
train from Yakima to Ellensburg arrived at the latter place Februar}- 26, 1886.
Ellensburg had at last attained one of the great objects of her ambitions, rail
connection with the world.
Throughout 1886 the line was pushed with great energ}- up the valley to the
Stampede Pass, and there the "Switchback" was in progress, pending the
tunnel, which required several years of added work. An extract from the
"Yakima Signal" of October 13, 1886, gives a conception of the progress of the
work at that period: "The grade is nearly if not quite completed to the east face
of the main tunnel, barring the trestles and the minor tunnels, which will be
finished in time to allow the track's reaching the switchback by December 1st.
Hunt's grade work on the east side will be completed today and between five
and six hundred laborers will be let out, some of whom have been secured to
push the work on the west side. The grading on the Switchback is approaching
the finish and will be delayed only for the trestling. Leonhard's Mill, having
exhausted the suitable timber at Tunnel Cit}', has moved to a point two mile?
west of Cle Elum, where it will be utilized in sawing trestle timbers, which
will be fitted at the mill and moved by car to the Switchback, ready to be swung
into place and bolted. On the west side the work is not so forward. A reduc-
tion of wages on October 6th to two dollars a day lessened the forces consider-
ably, but the old wages are to be reinstated and the work hurried forward.
Engineer Bogue is desirous of having the connection made by the first of Jan-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 633
uary, 1887, and is exerting every energy to that end, and should the weather
hold good his desires will be fulfilled." It may be added that the engineer's
hopes were nearly fulfilled, for construction trains were running early in 1887.
Nbt for some months, however, was. there regular passenger service. On July
3, 1887, a huge excursion from all parts of the Inland Empire passed over the
line to Tacoma to celebrate the Fourth. The "City of Destiny" was at that
time, though "booming" so as to fairly bubble over the top, a pretty raw, crude
place and it was fairly swamped by the tide of hay-seeds, cow-boys, wheat
farmers, horse men, mining sharps, which flowed in, responsive to the greatness
of the occasion of the first railway across the Cascades. There was some
inducement, too, in the fact that the fare was $5.00 the round trip from any
point in eastern Washington. Hundreds of excursionists had to walk up and
down the hills in Tacoma the night of the third, for the supply of rooms was
soon exhausted.
In spite of the fact that a "boom" followed the railroad, and Ellensburg
had the liveliest times ever known during 1887, 1888, and 1889 (until the big
fire of July 4th of the latter year) there were the disappointments usual in such
a period, and many charges against the railway managers for alleged discrim-
inations and injustices arose. The N. P. R. R. had things its own way in Kitti-
tas until 1909. In that year occurred the great event of the entrance of the
Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul Railroad through the valley and by the
Snoqualmie Pass to the Sound. Construction work was in progress in Ellens-
burg in 1908, but it was not till 1909 that the first train from the east reached
Ellensburg. Since the Milwaukee does not touch any part of the Yakima
Valley except Kittitas, a great deal was expected from it in the way of stimu-
lating enterprise. The general financial cloud that rested on the country, how-
ever, at that period, prevented as much jubilation and quickening as had come
twenty years earlier from the N. P. R. R., and Kittitas remained quite calm and
unexcited, in spite of this great addition to her facilities. We find in "The
Coast" of May, 1908, so fine a view of the road and the county just prior to its
completion that we incorporate it here.
BUILDING OF THE CHICAGO, MILWAUKEE & ST. PAUL RAILWAY THROUGH
KITTITAS COUNTY
BY H. L. W.
A Stupendous and marvelous financial and engineering feat is the building
of the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul Railroad to the Pacific Coast. This i.>
true because of the nature of the country through which the line runs and the
magnificent grades which are maintained and the times through which the
building of the line has progressed with clock-work regidarity regardless of
the financial difficulties which have troubled the industrial and commercial
world and thrown other industrial operations into disorder. Not only is the.
work progressing according to the estimates for time of completion of this large
undertaking, but the day for the running of through trains from Chicago to
Seattle and Puget Sound direct will arrive before the time specified in the
estimates and the roadway over which these magnificent trains will run will
634 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
be one of the very best according to the latest improved engineering methods
known to modern minds.
Kittitas County, Washington, is one of the rich and promising regions
through which this line will run. From the Columbia River, where the line
enters the county, to the Cascade Mountains, where it leaves and enters King
County, a variety of scenery and resources is encountered, which will not only
make it ideal and beautiful, but a road of promise where productive fields offer
opportunity for great wealth and profit.
In the building of this line no expense is spared to give a direct and short
means of transit and maintain an even and moderate grade, which means quick
and cheap operation. Especially is this demonstrated in Kittitas County, where
the total mileage is ninety-six miles, and where there will be fourteen stations,
three of which are old towns now existing.
At the Columbia River the road crosses upon a magnificent steel con-
structed bridge, built upon concrete and stone piers of the latest type of
structure. Rising from the Columbia River the road courses westward on a
direct line and cuts through the range of mountains in the eastern part of the
county by tunnel and traverses the wide fertile plains of Kittitas County until
it reaches and crosses the fertile and productive Kittitas Valley. Then follow-
ing the canyon of the Yakima River it rises at an even grade until it reaches
Easton, where it veers to the north and passes through the Cascades at a
marvelously low grade into the headwaters of the Cedar River and thence on
to the great city of Seattle on Puget Sound.
The average grade, or ruling grade, is four-tenths of one per cent, or
twenty-one feet and one-quarter to the mile. The maximum grade is two and
two-tenths per cent.
The width of the road bed is eighteen feet. The number of fills and bridges
are not ascertainable, but they are frequent. In the county there are six tunnels.
One, the Johnson Creek summit tunnel, in the eastern part of the county, is
2,000 feet long. The largest tunnel will be about three miles long and be at
the summit in the Cascade Mountains. It will not be completed until after the
operation of the road. Prior to the completion of the Cascade tunnel the road
will be operated through the Cascades without a switchback and over a road
built on a low grade.
Trains will be operated through Kittitas County bv September or October,
1908.
At the present time over 2,500 men are employed on the work and these
men are spenders in every sense of the word and almost every dollar of their
earnings finds repose in the tills of the various lines of business now conducted
in the county. Some say that the cost of the road through the county will
approximate $6,500,000, and of this amount two-thirds at least is paid for labor.
In the construction of the line the heaviest steel rails are utilized and the
system of spiral curves is maintained throughout the entire length, which pro-
vides for a high rate of speed and maximum safety and comfort to the traveling
public and the company in the running of trains.
At the present writing, April 15, 1908, about fifteen miles of the road in
Kittitas County is in operation from the point where the road crosses the
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 635
Northern Pacific about four miles west of Ellensburg, running east through
EUensburg to the extreme east side of the Kittitas Valley. The road is used
exclusively for the hauling of material.
Lorimer & Gallagher, of Chicago, are the contractors in charge of all the
tunnel work west of Ellensburg and twenty miles of construction work. The
senior member of the firm is William Lorimer, the well known political boss
of Chicago, who for twenty years was a member of Co'ngress from that city.
The work is directed by J. L. Gallagher, the other member of the firm. Their
tunnel work is done with electric drills.
C. J. Johnson has the contract for all the work from the summit of the
Cascades to Ellensburg. He is from St. Paul. Jacobson & Lindstrom, of
St. Paul, have seven miles of rock work from the Columbia River east.
With this article are presented a number of views along the line of the
railroad, presented to show something of the country through which the line
passes and the progress of the work. One of the most interesting pieces of
work was the building of the piers for the Columbia River bridge, which is one
of the most substantial bridges erected across this great waterway.
Not far from the Columbia River is a rock which lies not far from the
right of way which has been named by the men working on the road, "Our
Patron Saint." It is a fairly faithful representation of the head of John Rocke-
feller.
A grand vista is that which shows where the line courses along the banks
of the Yakima River. In this picture can be gained some idea of the immense
amount of water which is constantly rushing down from the Cascades on its
way to the Columbia, providing unlimited supply for irrigation purposes. It
can be seen that the engineers in locating the roadbed have gotten above the
danger line of floods, which in all places along this river has been done.
The cut at Craig's Hill in the city of Ellensburg is another feat of engin-
eering skill which has added to the reputation of the Milwaukee engineers and
shows one of the many obstacles which were met and overcome in the building
of the road.
The building of the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul Railway means much
for the county of Kittitas and the cities within its confines. It opens up avenues
for the development and settlement of wide areas now used for grazing lands
and off'ers inducements for the cutting up of large hay ranches and the begin-
ning of large things in the way of fruit raising and produce raising. New
towns are certain to spring up within a year or so and where now the coyote
and the sage brush flourish soon the roar of the limited speeding on its way
between Chicago and Seattle will be heard and the screech of the engine's
whistle will awaken the spirits of centuries which have been sleeping and will
come to new life and activities.
A future of large promise is assured for the people of this country and,
with the markets of Puget Sound brought nearer to the producer and cheaper
transportation, as well, placed within their grasp, the people of the Kittitas
Valley and Kittitas County will flourish and prosper and this region of fair
and bright possibilities will grow and increase in wealth and importance as its
people grasp the opportunities within their reach. Already men are investing
636 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
in this region and a lively activity is seen, and this is only the beginning.
Another of the great subjects of importance in Kittitas County, and espe-
cially Ellensburg, was the location and upbuilding of the Washington ISTormal .
School. We shall give a full account of this institution in the chapter on
Schools.
THE COAL MINES
One of the most vital matters connected with the progress of the county
during more recent history has been the development of the coal districts of
Roslyn and Cle Elum. Of the discoveries and early conditions we have already
spoken fully. As matter of historic interest a few words may be included
here as to the acquisition by the Northern Pacific Railroad Company of the
bulk of the coal lands. It is stated that certain coal prospectors in the period
of early discovery were in the mountains with I. A. Navarre, subsequently a
leading man in the Chelan country (from whom one of the conspicuous moun-
tains there derives its name) in the region where Roslyn was afterwards lo-
cated. While there they made a valuable find of coal. Mr. Navarre took up
the disposition of the property with Northern Pacific Railroad officials. Per-
ceiving at once the tremendous importance of such a discovery at such a place
on their line, the company at once entered upon the initiation of mining. This
was just at the time of completing their road across the mountains. Most of
the discoveries proved to be on railroad land. Some of the claimants were
dispossessed, others were forced to sell out less to their advantage than that
of the company, and in general there was much ill-feeling, as there is sure to
be when individual aims come into collision with those of a great corporation.
As in other coal mining regions the majority of the miners were and still
are foreigners and all the conditions are totally different from those in the
agricultural parts of Kittitas. In 1888 and 1894 strikes occurred in the coal
mines, bringing violence and loss of work and property. In April, 1899, the
Northern Pacific Railroad transferred its holdings at Cle Elum to the Northern
Pacific Coal Company. That company already controlled the coal mines at
Roslyn. In September of the same year the coal company conveyed its prop-
erty to the Northwestern Improvement Company, one of the numerous "New
Jersey" companies. The new corporation was said to have a capital of $4,000,-
000. At any rate they made numerous improvements and extensions. The
output of the mines reached as high as 4,000 tons per day immediately after
the new corporation took possession. In addition to supplying the Northern
Pacific Railroad, the Roslyn mines were drawn on for over 100,000 tons in
1899 for the Union Pacific Railroad. The Northwestern Improvement Com-
pany practically controls the entire output of the Roslyn and Cle Elum mines
to the present date.
While many details of value might be added, these larger general interests
may be considered as furnishing the basis of growth of this beautiful and
promising region of the "Land of the White Earth." To conclude this chap-
ter we add a tabulation of the estimated products in the great lines in industry
at the date of this work, given in part by State Bureau of Statistics.
Output of Kittitas County in leading industries, 1917:
Coal, 1,500,000 tons.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 637
Precious metals, many thousand dollars, but no definite estimate by bureau.
Agricultural and horticultural products:
Amounts
in Bushels \'alut
Wheat 86,000 $ 165,980
Oats 280,000 226,800
Barley 30,000 34,500
Corn 9,500 L5,390
Potatoes 296,730 272,920
Fruit 250,000
Sugar beets (tons) 3,169 31,690
Hay (tons) 75,000 1,200,000
Wool (pounds) 500,000 160,000
Lumber (feet) 12,000,000 240,000
Live stock 250,000
Total, approximate estimate $8,000,000
The estimate for 1918 is not complete at date of writing, but it is known
that the wheat crop has enormously increased, being estimated at 636,765 bushels,
worth $1,400,000.
It is of course to be remembered that Kittitas County has never been a
grain country.
It is probable that the value of the output of the county for 1918 will total
more than $9,000,000, an immense sum for a population estimated on July 1,
1917. at 25,027. By far the largest item is coal and the next is hay.
Perhaps nothing in the history of Kittitas County has ever been more
pleasing or has more distinctly illustrated the varied character of the interests
and industries of the people than the leading position awarded to the county
at the Northwestern Industrial Exposition at Spokane in October, 1890.
The fact that this exhibit came so early in the history of the county
makes it the more impressive in comparison with the present-day statistics just
given. It may be added that at the time of the Northwestern Industrial Expo-
sition. Kittitas County had already held four county fairs at Ellensburg. The
exhibit at Spokane was thus tabulated in the "Register":
The Kittitas Exhibits
at the northwestern industrial exposition— kittit.\s county leads all
others and brings home a record to be proud of
Advance sheets of the official report of the Northwestern Industrial Expo-
sition management have been kindly forwarded by Mr. C. W. Robinson, gen-
eral manager. The report upon Kittitas County's exhibit opens as follows:
"Attention was drawn to the exhibit of Kittitas County more than that of any
other exhibit, owing no doubt to the diversity of the resources and the attrac-
tions which were daily ofifered by Mr. H. C. Walters. Taken as a whole the
display was wonderful, showing that almost everything can be raised in Kittitas
County."
638 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
The following is an itemized statement of the exhibit prepared by H. C.
Walters :
Kittitas County, central county in the state of W^ashington, aptly termed
"staple."' ■■prolitic" and "diversitied Kittitas," exhibits as follows:
THRESHED GRAIN
Little Club wheat, 50 bushels per acre : Blue Stem wheat, SO bushels per
acre : Russian side oats, 60 bushels per acre : Chevalier barley, 60 bushels per
acre. The average yield of these crops throughout the entire county, year in
and year out, being stated at wheat 30, oats 45, and barley, 40 bushels per acre.
GRAIN AND GRASSES IN SHEAF
Wheat, 43^ inch heads: oats, 15 inch heads; barley, 4 inch heads; timothy,
8 inch heads; Hungarian millet, 14 inch heads: ne grass (native), 10 feet tall.
VEGETABLES
Potatoes — Weight 2j^ pounds each ; usual crop 350 to 500 bushels per acre.
Onions — Weight 2 to 2% pounds each ; usual crop 300 to 500 bushels per acre.
Beets — (Red table), weight 15 pounds each; a prolific annual product.
Squash — (Three varieties), 20 to 45 pounds each; a fine crop: often attain
50 to 90 pounds each.
Beets — (Sugar), weight 20 pounds each. A big certain crop.
Beans — (White Navy and Butter), excellent samples of large annual pro-
duction.
Sweet Potatoes — (Yams), 4 specimens, on one root, weighing 7 pounds.
Turnips — (White), weighing 15 pounds each.
Tomatoes — (Vick's early), excellent samples of a large annual product.
Carrots, Parsnips and Rutabagas — Fine samples of large annual yield.
MISCELLANEOUS
Baled Hay — Samples of 1,0(X) ton crop, cut and stacked in three weeks on
the famous "Bull" hay ranch; average yield IJ^ tons per acre.
Timothy Seed — Plump, bright seed : a sample of one of the favorite local
productions.
FRUITS
Peaches — Five varieties, many weighing one-half j'ound each and repre-
senting a yield of 3, 4 and 5 year old trees.
Pears — Four varieties, of fine appearance and flavor, weighing one-half to
1 pound each.
Plums— Three varieties, of luscious color and flavor.
Prunes — Silver, German and Italian varieties, of excellent size and ajipear-
ance.
Grapes— Zinfandel, Riesling, Black Ferret, Black Hamburg, Pinto and other
varieties, many specimens being from two year old vines and several from this
year's cuttings. All finely flavored, richly colored and full bearing, indicating
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 639
admirable character of the Weiiatchee and Columbia river bottoms for vine
culture.
Apples — Bell Flower, Blue and White Pyramid, Rhode Island Greening,
Yellow Baldwin, Winter Swaugh, Northern Spy, Rambo and other varieties:
large, bright, thin skinned, juicy samples, weighing from one-half to 1 pound
each : also common and Siberian crab apples ; a most prolific annual yield.
MISCELLANEOUS
Russian mulberry tree, 2 years old, 15 feet high.
. Japanese chestnut tree, 1 year old, 10 feet high.
Apple tree, a root graft, planted in 1889, made five feet and ten inches
growth the first year.
Tobacco plant, 45 inches long.
Chestnut burrs, well filled with nuts.
Grape and peach brandy, 90 degrees proof.
Corn, sweet and field: many well filled ears, measuring 10 to 13 inches
long and 8 inches around : also two varieties of pop corn.
Note — While all staple grains, grasses, vegetables and hardy fruits are from
the general agricultural area of Kittitas County, peaches, grapes, sweet potatoes
and the larger samples of corn are from the lowlands bordering upon the Wenat-
chee and Columbia Rivers.
Nuggets of native gold from John Black's mine in the Swauk placer mines
25 miles north of Ellensburg, contributed by Ben. E. Snipes & Company, bank-
ers, weighing as follows : ,
No. 1, weight 14 oz., 13 pwts., 10 grain.s : value, $325.
No. 2, weight 8 oz., 9 pwts., 12 grains ; value, $135.60.
No. 3, weight 6 oz., 18 pwts., 4 grains; value $110.55.
No. 4, weight 3 oz., 2 pwts., 2 grains; value $49.66.
No. 5, weight 3 oz., 7 pwts., 3 grains: value $53.70.
No. 6, weight 2 oz.. 18 pwts. ; value $46.40.
No. 7, small nuggets : value $39.70.
No. 8, two balls retort gold ; value $48.80.
These specimens of native gold were washed from a gravel deposit which
employs annually an increased number of miners and has yielded to date $175,000
in coarse gold.
Gold brick from George W. Seaton's "Gold Leaf" quartz mine in the same
mining district taken from 1 ton of quartz: weight $38.00.
Also beautiful specimens of native gold in form of fern leaves.
Gold quartz from the "Humming Bird," "Culver," (or Shafifer) "Pole Pick,"
"Golden Phoenix," and other mines in the Peshastin mining district, 38 miles
north of Ellensburg.
Average working value $20 per ton in free gold and ten per cent, of aurif-
erous pyrites worth $175 per ton. Total average working value $37.50 in gold
640 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
per ton. Veins regular and massive, ranging from ten to fifteen feet between
walls.
Gold-bearing quartz from the same district — Sybil mine — showing consid-
erable free gold and high grade gold sulphurets. A recent discovery of excellent
size and general characteristics.
Asbestos, white, silken fibred, from a recent discovery in the same district.
An extensive belt of parallel veins or seams (not yet determined fully which),
each 18 to 24 inches in v\ridth.
Copper ore, "Glance," showing native copper, the outcrop of the "Kelly,"
a recent discovery in same district; massive vein.
Gold and silver ores from the "Silver Dump," "Silver King," "Madeline,"
"Aurora," "Mountain Sprite," "Bald Eagle," "Ida Elmore," "Fortune," "Cle-
Elum" and "Hawk" mines, in the Cle-Elum district, 45 to 50 miles north of
EUensburg, and twenty-two to thirty miles north of the towns of Cle-Elum and
Roslyn. These properties are in various degrees of development from mere pros-
pects to very fairly determined propositions. The ore bodies are large and well
mineralized. The assay values range from $30 to $45 per ton.
Copper silver ores, copper glance, black oxide and copper pyrites from the
"Bullion," "Copper Head," numbers 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6; "Bob Tail," "Silver Bow"
and "Copper Bottom." These copper veins are very strong and well defined.
Development inchules a 120 foot shaft and numerous drifts.
Copper bullion, a bar of copper weighing three-fourths of a pound, melted
in EUensburg sampling works from two pounds of ore: labeled, "Entire Copper
Product of State for 1890. Watch the Industry Grow."
Copper-Silver ores, assay values are from $30 to $80 copper and from $15
to $60 gold and silver per ton.
Iron ores, red and brown hematite, magnetic, limonitc and red oxide from
the different massive iron veins included in a great iron belt, extending from
the southern to the northern boundaries of Kittitas County, parallel with and
crossing the Yakima and Cle Elum rivers, near the town of Cle Elum. These
ores carry 40 to 69 per cent, of metallic iron ore, remarkably free from sulphur
and phosphorus.
An abundance of fine "Bessemer" ores are obtainable at several central
points of development. Among the samples exhibited were blocks of iron ore
weighing from 500 to 5,700 pounds each ; also two lumps of magnetic ore, which
by their extremely powerful "lode-stone" properties attracted a great deal of
attention. The iron product of Kittitas County as indicated by the samples, is
most remarkably abundant and highly diversified.
Samples of pure lime, also several fine fluxing limes and most curious stalag-
mites resembling huge mushrooms, or other fungus growth, were included in
the exhibit and represented the various large lime deposits discovered in the
several iron, copper and coal fields of Kittitas County.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 641
Semi-bituminous gas and steam coal from the great Cle Elum coal fields.
A block of this coal contributed by the Northern Pacific Coal Company from
mine No. 2 at Roslyn, was a leading feature of the exposition. This monster
black diamond measured 2j4 by 4 by 12 feet and weighed 9,300 pounds. Over
375,000 tons of coal were shipped from these mines in 1890. The product in
September, 1890, was 40,140 tons and the output will be steadily increased in
response to continually growing demand. Over 1,000 men are employed directly
or indirectly by this infant industry. Samples of excellent coal were also included
from several discoveries in the Wenatchee region.
BRICK AND CLAYS
Fine red and white brick made from clays abounding in the Kittitas and
Wenatchee vallevs. Also several varieties of untested clavs.
An ordinary coal mining pick, being the first regulation pick employed in
the Roslyn coal fields, was profusely decorated with ribbons and attracted much
attention, as the simple instrument that had prepared the way for the employ-
ment of thousands of people in Kittitas County.
N.MVIES OF CONTRIBUTORS
The names of contributors and their addresses, in so far as obtainable, are
as follows :
Wenatchee Postoffice — Philip Miller, Jacob Shotwell, George Miller, W. J.
Gray, James Turner, W. H. Brownlow, Edward Hinman, Charles B. Reed, T.
J. Graves, Jacob Bolenbaugh, Gardner & Stewart, C. Roose, John Galler, George
Parrish.
Colocken Postofifice — Edward Cook.
Cle Elum Postoffice — Walter J. Reed, John Lynch. E. P. Boyle, Brannan
& Thomas and other citizens.
Roslyn Postoffice — North Pacific Coal Company.
Ellensburg Postoffice — E. Messerly, John Amlin, John Catlin, .\. Stevens,
J. D. Damman, J. Amlin, Father Taylor, J. M. Hatfield, P. H. Schnebly, Jacob
Salladay, Walter Bull, W. H. Stoddard, L. Klein, Emerson & Burch, William
Donahue, Dalton & Lindsey, Jessie McDonald, F. N. McCandless, Walters &
Co., Leonhard & Ross, A. A. Meade and others.
A photograph of the fine public school building, under construction at
Ellensburgh, to cost fifty thousand dollars, was also displayed.
In awarding premiums the exposition committee decided that Kittitas
County was entitled to receive the gold medal and silk banner for the best
combined mineral and agricultural display made by any county. Also that for
the greatest variety of natural resources our county should receive the magnifi-
cent mountain sheep head offered by Mr. J. H. Friedlander, of Wilbur. — Wash-
ington State Register, November 28.
(41)
642 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
THE FIRST PIG IRON
In order to (lenionstratc that pig iron can be made in Ellensburg and to
determine the requisite fluxing material, a trial run was made at the Cornth-
waite foundry, on Tuesday. Kittitas County iron ore and lime stone was used.
The experiment was a decided success, a high grade of pig iron being the result.
In a few days another run will be made, and in the light of experience gained,
a fine lot of iron will be produced. All of the materials necessary to the up-
building of the great iron industries are directly tributary to Ellensburgh, and
such practical demonstrations will do much toward their early establishment
here. — "Washington State Register," November 28th.
CHAPTER III
THE CITY OF ELLENSBURG
FIRST SETTLEMENT, LAVING OUT OF TOWNSITE AND CHARTER — YEARS OF EARLY
GROWTH — ADVERTISEMENTS AND EXTRACTS FROM "KITTITAS STANDARD" OF
JULY, 1883, INCLUDING "DIRECTORY," EDITORIAL AND NEWS ITEMS — POEM,
"KITTITAS valley" ELLENSBURGH DESCRIBED, DECEMBER, 1883 — FIRST
T INGS IN ELLENSBURG C RISTMAS TREE AND SUNDRY SOCIAL EVENTS,
1883 — CITY CHARTER AN ACT TO INCORPORATE ELLENSBURGH, ETC. — THE
"standard" SKETCHES ELLENSBURGH IN 1885 ITEMS FROM "LOCALIZER,"
APRIL, 1889 QUARTERLY APPORTIONMENT OF SCHOOL MONEY, APRIL, 1889 —
FIRE OF JULY 4, 1889 BUSINESS FAILUKES — THE WATER QUESTION EDI-
TORIAL ON CITY WATER SUPPLY' — CITY GOVERNMENT MAYOR's MESSAGE —
MAYORS AND CLERKS, 1886 TO 1918 — CAUCUS FOR CITY OFFICERS, NOVEMBER
5, 1918.
The chief city of the Kittitas Valley is so intimately related to the county
in history and present conditions that in some degree the county history already
given anticipates many things which might be written of the city. It will be
our endeavor in this chapter to present such facts as belong to the history of
Ellensburg in its municipal organization and development, reserving for later
chapters the important topics of the newspapers, schools, churches and societies
of various sorts.
FIRST SETTLEMENT, LAYING OUT OF TOWNSITE, AND CHARTER
The first settler on the location of Ellensburg was William Wilson, com-
monly known as "Bud" Wilson. From the records handed down from that
early period by A. J. Splawn and others in book and paper and from the
remembrances of the earliest comers it would seem that this first settler was
hardly a real settler, certainly not a builder in any true sense. He seems to have
been simply a renegade, consorting with the Indians and finally losing his life
in connection with too close an attachment to some other man's horses. Wilson
came to the site of Ellensburgh in 1868, and a little later in the same year
Frederick Ludi, who with Jacob Goller had lived the previous Winter on the
Alanashtash, came to the same location and found Wilson there with the Indians.
The location was such, both in respect to the valley itself and the river and
the ingress and egress each way, as to make that location almost necessarily the
site of the future city. Besides the natural conveniences and the surpassing
beauty of the spot, of which the hill, known later as Craig's Hill, was a con-
spicuous feature, there was a spring back of the subsequent location of Shoudy's
house, between Third and Fourth streets, and Main and Water streets.
Wilson had a rough log cabin, and when in 1869, A. J. Splawn, then
hardly more than a boy, came to revisit the valley through which he had driven
cattle some years earlier, and led no doubt by the location on the Tancum of his
643
644 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
brother Charles and F. M. Thorp with his family, saw the spot selected by
Wilson for that first cabin on the site of Ellensburg, he decided at once that
there would be a natural location for a trading post. There was much move-
ment to and fro by cattlemen, prospectors and Indians, and right there the
adventurous cowboy decided was the place to make a stake. In 1870 Mr.
Splawn bought out Wilson, finished the cabin, and started a post. Mr. Splawn
gives in "Kamiakin, the Last Hero of the Yakimas," an entertaining account of
his settling at that place and how the name "Robbers' Roost" came to be at-
tached. It seems that J. W. Gillespie was responsible for that not very inviting
name. Coming along one day he asked the youthful proprietor if he did not
want a sign. Upon acquiescence to the suggestion, Gillespie proceeded to make
the picturesque and alliterative one which stuck so well on the popular tongue
both for the store and the place that it lasted for several years. The location
was near where the Rex Hotel is now, near Main and Third streets.
■'Jack" Splawn, full of life and movement, was too active to be tied down
to a single spot and soon tired of the store business. In 1871 John A. Shoudy
of Seattle appeared in the valley. He too perceived the adaptability of the
location for the center of what was obviously going to be a rich and attractive
country. He soon induced the tradesman, who was only too glad of a chance
to get back on the range, to sell out to him. As Mr. Splawn says, he sold his
store and threw in the claim.
ISIr. Shoudy enlarged the building, brought in a new stock of goods and
became the "Father" of Ellensburg. A man named Cooper hauled in from
The Dalles the first wagon load of merchandise for Shoudy's store. In 1872
the pioneer merchant built a new building, the first frame building in the town.
In 1875 Mr. Shoudy laid out on his claim the "original town of Ellensburgh."
The plat embraced eighty acres and derived its name from Ellen, Mr. Shoudy's
wife. The final h of the name was retained till 1894 when the post office depart-
ment dropped it.
The plat of Mr. Shoudy's eighty acres was recorded in the names of John
A. and Mary Ellen Shoudy on July 20, 1875.
It embraced twenty-four blocks on the west half of the northeast quarter of
section two, township seventeen north, range eighteen east, Willamette base
and meridian. There were seven streets running ea.'^t and west, and those
received the numbers from one to seven. The streets running north and south
were Water, Main, Pearl, and Pine. Block 8 was set aside for a courthouse
location, and block 14 for a park. From a map kindly furnished the author by
Mr. Gerrit d'Ablaing and dates derived from the records, it appears that the
following additions have been platted: Shoudy's first addition, January 13,
1882 ; an addition by George F. Smith and wife and Jeflferson Smith, October 3,
1883: Shoudy's second addition, August 11, 1885; Homestead addition. Decem-
ber 22, 1887; Hick's, March 22. 1888: Elliott's, 1888; Shoudy's third, June 13.
1888: Sunnyside, June 13, 1888; South Ellensburgh, June 21, 1888; Tacoma.
June 24, 1888; Depot, July 27, 1888; Railroad first, October 5, 1888; Railroad
second, November 21, 1888; Sunny Slope, January 7, 1889; Grandview, Jan-
uary 15, 1889; Santa Anna, February 6, 1889; Michel's first, Februar>- 14, 1889:
Michel's second, February 23, 1889: Smithson's, February 27, 1889: Central,
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY- 645
March 21, 1889; Electric, April 10, 1889; Shoudy's subdivision, April 15, 1889;
Columbia, June 3, 1889; Becker's, August 31, 1889; Lapointe's first, April 9,
1890; Ames', May 26, 1890; Knox and Mclntyre's, Nbvember 12, 1890; Lee's
subdivision, August 28, 1891; Iron Works Annex, Ottober 3. 1891. It appears
that of the twenty-nine additions recorded, twenty were recorded in 1888 and
18cS9. Those were the great "boom" years.
YEARS OF EARLY GROWTH
The period of the first four years after the platting of the town was one
of slow growth. In 1878, seven years after Mr. Shoudy's arrival and three
after the platting of the townsite, there was but a small group of business
places. These were grouped around the crossing of Main and Third streets.
They consisted of the store of Shoudy & Stewart, Jewett's saloon, Becker's
blacksmith shop, a hotel conducted by Mrs. James Masterson, the post office and
a "hall" in Shoudy's store. There were a few residences. In 1879 A. A. Bell
and H. M. Bryant started a store in the old building which had been built the
previous year during the scare from the Moses Indians. Hence that store was
often referred to as the "Stockade Store."'
Later in 1879 a more ambitious mercantile establishmetit was started by
Leopold Blumauer on Main and Fourth streets. That building is still in exist-
ence. T. F. Meagher and J. H. Smithson started a butcher shop the same year.
Beginning in 1883 there was rapid growth. On June 16th of that year the
first newspaper, that vital necessity of any growing town, was launched.
There had been a little type-written sheet of a few copies called the "Kitti-
tas Wau Wau," which contained news and advertisements and must be ac-
corded the credit of preparing the way, but it could scarcely be called a news-
paper. The first real paper was the "Kittitas Standard," managed and edited
by Richard V. Chadd, formerly of the "Yakima Record."
We speak of the "Standard" as a pioneer 'paper in the chapter on The
Press, and are introducing it here in order to present some extracts, advertise-
ments, news items, and some editorial comments, as casting light on the Ellens-
burgh of the summer of 1883. From the "Standard" of July 14th we draw
the following announcement of its own business, with a directory of state and
county officers and the arrivals and departures of the mails:
From the "Kittitas Standard," July 14, 1883:
THE KITTITAS STANDARD
Published By
THE STANDARD PUBLISHING CO.
Richard V. Chadd,
General Manager.
The Kittitas Standard is published every Saturday at the following
rates, payment invariably in advance :
One year $3.00
Six months 1.50
646 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Three months 1-00
Legal advertising, $1.50 per square for the first insertion,' and 50 cents
each subsequent insertion.
Transient advertisements same as legal.
Local notices inserted at the rate of 10 cents a line. No local notice given
short of 50 cents.
Ordinary business advertisements will be charged at the following rates :
One inch, one month $1.50
Two inches, one month 2.50
One-fourth column, one month 4.50
One-half column, one month 7.00
One column, one month 12.00
All bills payable monthly.
STANDARD DIRECTORY
Territorial Officers
Delegate to Congress, Thomas H. Brents.
Governor, William A. Newell.
Secretary, N. H. Owings.
Marshal, Chas. B. Hopkins.
U. S. Attorney, John B. Allen.
Auditor, Thomas R. Reed.
Treasurer, Frank Tarbell.
Surveyor-General, Wm. McMicken.
Judge First Judicial District, S. C. Wingard.
Judge Second Judicial District, John Hoyt.
Judge Third Judicial District, R. S. Greene.
Register U. S. Land Office, R. B. Kinnie.
Receiver U. S. Land Office, J. M. Adams.
Cou.xTY Officers
Representative, J. A. Shoudy.
Prosecuting Attorney, R. O. Dunbar.
Probate Judge, L A. Navarre.
.Auditor, S. T. Munson.
Sheriff, J. J. Tyler.
Treasurer, J. A. Splawn.
Superintendent of Schools, Ella S. Stair.
County Surveyor, T. H. Look.
Commissioners, D. Murray, J. W. Masters and S. R. Geddis-
J. W. Masters, Chairman.
Clerk of District Court, R. G. O'Brien.
Coroner, W. F. Morrison.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Ellensburgh Postoffice
The mails arrive as follows : From The Dalles daily, Sunday excepted, at 6 p. m.
From Yakima, Selah and Natches, daily, at 6 p. m.
From Milton, Tuesdays, at 12 o'clock m.
The mails depart as follows : For The Dalles daily, Sunday excepted, at 6 a. m.
For Yakima, Selah and Matches, daily, at 6 a. m.
For Milton, Tuesdays, at 12 m.
Mail closes at 30 minutes before departure of mails.
No registering done after 5 p. m.
Registering on Sundays only while the office is open.
The office will be open two hours on Sundays — from 11 a. m. to 1 p. m.
No mail delivered on that day except while the office is open.
JOHN A. SHOUDY, P. M.
Perhaps more history can be found in contemporary advertising than in
some more formal and ambitious types of writing. To oldtimers, especially,
the following extracts from the advertising columns of that issue of the "Stand-
ard" will be both interesting and amusing:
July 14, 1883.
1883
1883
Attention Attention Attention
THOMAS JOHNSON
Wholesale and retail dealer in
General Merchandise
I wish to announce to the people of
Ellensburgh and vicinity that my stock
of General Merchandise is now com-
plete in every department, comprising
Ladies Dress Goods, in the Latest
Styles, with Trimmings to Match.
I call special attention to my assort-
ment of Millinery and Fancy Goods,
Trimmed and Untrimmed Hats, Flow-
ers and Hat Trimmings
AT PRICES TO DEl'Y COMPETITION
A splendid assorrment of Ladies'
Linen Ulsters, Men's and Boys' Cloth-
ing, Hats, Boots and Shoes, and Fur-
nishing Goods.
I call special attention to my stock of
Ladies', Misses', and Children's Shoes,
which is now complete as any house
east of Portland.
A full line of Jewelry, Watches and
Clocks, Groceries, Carpets, Tobaccos,
Wall Paper, Stationery, Cigars, Crock-
ery, Hardware, Glassware, Tinware,
Cutlery, Paints, Oils, Brushes, Sponges,
Etc.
Always on hand a full stock of
IRON AND STEEL
I am Agent for the Celebrated Bain
Wagon, Buffalo Pitts' Farm Engines,
Buffalo Challenger Thresher, New Buf-
falo Vibrating Thresher, Imperial Ore-
gon Header, McCormick Harvester and
Twine Binder, McCormick Combined
Mower and Reaper, McCormick Iron
Mower, McCormick Daisy Reaper,
Champion Single Reaper, Champion
Combined Mower and Reaper, New
Champion Mower, Tiger Self-Discharg-
ing Sulky Rake, Hollingsworth Sulky
Plow, the Thomas Sulky Plow, Fan-
ning Mills, Plows, Drills, Broadcast
Seeders, Sulky and Gang Plows, and
in fact everything needed by Farmers.
Also Agent for the Royal, Norwich,
Union, Lancashire, Connecticut, Ore-
gon Fire and Marine and Lion of Lon-
don Insurance Companies, W. F. &
Co.'s Express.
Office of The Dalles, Goldendale,
Yakima and Ellensburgh stage line.
648
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
EXCHANGE BOUGHT AND SOLD
Call and examine my goods and
prices before purchasing elsewhere.
THOMAS JOHNSON
Corner of Fourth and Pearl Streets,
Ellensburgh, Washington Territory
' PROFESSIONAL
DR. N. HENTON
Physician and Surgeon — Office on
Fourth Street, Ellensburgh, W. T.
M. V. AMEN
Physician — Office on Fourth Street,
adjoining Church's Saddle and Har-
ness Shop. Prompt attention to
business.
GEO. STUART
Physician and Surgeon — Office at
Postoffice Drug Siore, corner Main
and Fourth streets, Ellenburgh,
W. T. Calls promptly attended to.
' P. SANFORD BURKE
Attorney-at-L.«ivv. Attention also paid
to location of Claimants on U. S.
Lands. Office on corner of Front
and Pine Streets, Yakima City, W. T.
J. E. Atwater J. H. Naylor, A. Mires
The Dalles, Or. Ellensburgh, W. T.
ATWATER, NAYLOR & MIRES
Attorneys and Counsellors at Law
— Will practice in ail the courts of the
Territon,'. Office opposite Postoffice.
'Ellensburgh, W. T.
' SAM'L C. DAVIDSON
Attorney-.\t-Law and Notary Public
— Fourth Street, adjoining Church's
Harness Shop, Ellensburgh, W. T.
J. B. Reavis & E. Pruyn F. S. Thorp
Yakima Ellensburgh
REAVIS, PRUYN & THORP
Attorneys and Counsellors at Law
— Yakima City, W. T. Will practice in
all the courts in the Territory. Of-
fice near C. W. Carey's store, Main
Street, Yakima.
MISCELLANEOUS
W. S. CROUCH
Fourth Street, Ellensburgh, W. T.
Dealer in
Stoves, Ranges and Metals
and General Hardware
I am agent for the following machin-
ery: Challenge Feed Mill, Canton Pitt
Thresher, Haines Header, Buckeye
Mowers and Reapers, New Model Vi-
brating Thresher, Buckeye Self Rak-
ers, Twine and Wire Binders, Schutler
Farm and Spring Wagons, Monitor and
Bookwalter Engines, The Taylor and
Surprise Sulky Hay Rakes, and the
John Deere Gang and Sulky Plows.
I am now prepared to sell on terms to
suit everybody. Send in your orders.
BECKER AND SEATON
(Successors to J. Becker & Son)
Horse Shoeing, Plow and Wagon Shop
Repairing of all kinds in iron or wood
All work warranted
Corner Main and Third Streets
Ellensburgh, W. T.
JAMES J. McGRATH
Blacksmith and Horseshoer
Ellensburgh, W. T.
All kinds of iron work executed
With promptness and dispatch
All I ask is a trial, and I will guarantee
satisfaction.
J. J. McGRATH
BOARD OF TRADE SALOON
Third Street, Ellensburgh, W. T.
H. D. Merwin, Manager
The finest brands of Wines,
Liquors and Cigars
Private rooms for patrons.
Ellensburgh
Bath Room and Barber Shop
Elliott's Building, Third Street
Alfred Woods, Proprietor
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
649
"Our Corner."
Corner of Third and Main Streets,
Ellensburgh
J. T. McDonald Proprietor
The above popular place of resort
has recently been refitted and refur-
nished throughout, and none but the
best brands of \\'ines, Liquors (and
Cigars are furnished to patrons. Call
and sample.
Notice to Pay Up.
All persons knowing themselves to
be indebted to the firm of Becker & Son
are requested to settle up. Either party
of the old firm is authorized to receipt.
. We must have the money.
BECKER & SON.
DREW,
The Painter.
H. REHMKE & BROS.
Watch Makers and Jezvelers.
Repairing and fine work a specialty.
All work guaranteed.
Ellensburgh W. T.
In connection we have a Bakery and •
Lunch Room where patrons can have
everything in the line of edibles. Re-
member the place, near the Postofifice.
Ellensburgh.
Wanted Wanted
5,000 Men to Know
That they can always find at the
RED FRONT HARNESS SHOP
A Complete Stock of Harness, Bridles,
Men's and Ladies' Saddles, Whips,
Spurs, Bits, Collars, Snaps, and in fact
Everything in My Line. Also a Full
Line of Hand-Made California .'^purs
and Bits, Plain and Silver Inlaid. Re-
pairing Work Promptly Done.
Ellensburgh. E. P. CHURCH.
S. B. ADAMS
(Successor to Edes &: Adams.)
Manufacturer and Dealer in Woven
Wire Mattresses, The Dalles, Oregon.
Thos. Howe, Ellensburgh, has the
Exclusive Sale of My Beds for Kittitas
\'alley.
THOMAS HOWE,
Odd Fellows' Building, Third Street,
Ellensburgh, W. T.
^Manufacturer and Dealer in Furni-
ture of all kinds.
I make a specialty of W'oven Wire
Mattresses. Satisfaction guaranteed.
DREW,
The Painter.
GILMOUR & BROS..
Blacksmiths, Corner Second and Main
Streets, Ellensburgh, W. T.
Wagon Work and Repairing on
Short Notice. Horseshoeing a Spe-
cialty. Promptness in Meeting Orders.
Our Motto: "Low Prices for Cash."
KING'S COMBINATION
Will Correct the Sight. For sale only
by
P. Laurcndeau.
Sole Agent,
Optician, City Drug Store, Ellensburgh,
W. T.
NORTHERN PACIFIC SALOON.
Main Street, between Second and Third
Ellensburgh
John Lyon Proprietor
The finest brands of Cutter Liquors
and Cigars. Private Rooms for Pat-
rons. An Orderly House at All Times.
/. L. COLEMAN.
Manufacturer and Dealer in 'Harness,
Saddlery-Ware, .^addles and Bridles,
Whips, Etc. *
-Adjoining Palace Livery Stable,
Main Street Ellensburgh. W. T.
650
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
THE HL-MBOLDT SALOON,
Main Street, between Second and
Third, Ellensburgh. \V. T.
Smith & Shazer Proprietors
The finest brands of Wines, Liquors
and Cigars.
Xo pains will be spared to please
patrons, and to maintain a quiet place
of resort.
G. IV. ELLIOTT'S
(Formerly Shoudy & Mill's)
Livery and Feed Stable, Third Street
between Main and Water Streets.
Buggy, Pack and Saddle Animals con-
stantly on hand.
Large Corral and Sheds.
Horses boarded by the day, week or
month. Terms reasonable.
MARTIN SAUTTER
Builder and Contractor
Shop on Fourth Street Opposite City
Hotel
Will contract for the construction of
Houses. Stores and Other Structures.
The Best Material Kept on Hand,
such as Shingles ami Seasoned Lumber.
All work executed with dispatch and
warranted.
PR ESSE V & SPRAGUE,
Ellensburgh, W". T.
Manufacturers of Doors. .Sash, Mould-
ings and Furniture of All Kinds.
In our manufactor\- may be found
machines for making or repairing any-
thing in Wood or Iron. Wagons, Plows,
Reapers, Threshers, Etc., repaired at
short notice.
In the "Standard" of July 14. 1883,
items of much suggestiveness.
LITTLE BLUE RESTAURANT
West Side of Main Street, Between
Second and Third.
Hahn & Forest Proprietors
Meals at all hours.
If you want a square meal give the
"Little Blue" a call.
POSTOFFICE DRUG STORE
Charles B. Reed Proprietor
\\holeslae and Retail Dealer in Drugs,
Chemicals, Patent Medicines and Drug-
gist Sundries, also Paints, Window
Glass, Stationery, Oils, Putty and Can-
dies. Promptness in filling orders.
TJOSSEM'S MILL,
Three Miles Southeast of Ellensburgh.
R. P. Tjossem Proprietor
Having plenty of water I am always
ready to do custom work.
Feed and flour of best grades and brand
for sale.
Cash paid for wheat and barley.
/. T. Gilinour. George Johnson.
GILMOUR & JOHNSON
Blacksmiths, Corner .Second and Main
Streets, Ellensburgh, W'. T.
\\'agon work and repairing on short
notice. Horseshoeing a Specialty.
Promptness in meeting orders.
Our Motto : "Low Prices for Cash."
DISSOLUTION NOTICE '
The co-partnership heretofore
existing between W. L. Webb and F.
C. Bagg has this day been dissolved by
mutual consent. W. L. Webb will col-
lect all accounts due the finu and settle
its indebtedness.
U'. L. Webb. F. C. Sa»,c-
Ellensburgh, June 9th, 1883.
also we find some editorial and news
July 14, 1883— From "The Kittitas Standard."
LOCK-UP MEETING
During the Fourth considerable noisy demonstrations were made by a few
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 651
individuals while under the influence of liquor. At one time their whooping and
yelling was simply outrageous. We have no place to confine such characters,
and we need it. The doings of these fellows has aroused our people to action,
and on Friday evening a number of citizens assembled at Elliott's Hall for the
purpose of taking into consideration the construction of a loci<-up.
J. T. McDonald was called to the chair, and H. C. Walters was elected
secretary.
Deputy SherifY Wynegar informed the meeting that some $200 had already
been subscribed for the desired purpose, and that leading merchants had not yet
been interviewed.
At the suggestion of J. H. Naylor, L. C. Wynegar, G. W. Elliott and John
Gilmour were appointed by the chair as a committee to receive further subscrip-
tions, and to disburse the same at their discretion.
It is understood that the courthouse square is available as a building site.
Mr. Webb suggested that 1x6 lumber be used, spiked together for floor,
same on outside and roof, making the building sufficiently stout to withstand
efforts of prisoners to escape, as well as to admit of the building being removed,
should it be necessary to vacate the square.
On motion of J. H. Naylor the Building and Soliciting Committee were
ordered to report at Elliott's Hall, next Saturday, at one o'clock p. m.
Adjourned.
July 14, 1883 — From "The Kittitas Standard."
TOWN .\ND COUNTY
Pressey & Sprague. — Among the many enterprising firms of this section is
that composed of the gentlemen whose names head this article. Their manufac-
tory is located on the north side of Wilson Creek, just in the suburbs of the
town. Early this week we took occasion to go through their establishment,
and were surprised to note so many evidences of thrift and enterprise. They
have machinery for nearly every class of wood and iron work. The power
used to drive all of their machinery is a 13-foot wheel, driven by water taken
from Wilson Creek, above town. When you first enter their establishment you
are confronted with two large benches. These are located si the side of the
building, and are used for finishing purposes, as well as repairing and wagon
work. To the side of this room is the machine room, where machinery to do
all kinds of turning, for the manufacture of doors, sash and mouldings, are
located. In this room we observed one of the handiest little machines we have
seen, and it is the invention of these gents. It is a planer, sticker, tenanter, sash
and rip-sawing machine all combined in one. Back of this room is located their
new 20-inch planer and moulding machine, and to the side of this the drying
room, which as yet has not been completed. Upstairs, and over the machine
room is the store room, where they keep stored a full stock of doors, window
sash and blinds and furniture of everj' description. Indeed, taking their estab-
lishment throughout it is the most complete of any in the county, and would
really be a credit to larger and more populous cities.
652 HISTORY OF YAKLMA VALLEY
LEG CRUSHED
On \\'ednesday morning word was brought to town that Geo. Donner, than
whom don"t live a better hearted fellow, had his leg crushed at Leonhard's saw-
mill. As near as we can learn the particulars of the accident are as follows :
George had a lame foot, which though it did not incapacitate him from work
prevented him from moving around quickly. He was helping to unload some
heavy logs from a truck, w-hen in some manner a log got the start of him, and
rolled down upon him before he could get out of the way. It crushed his leg
in a fearful manner. Doctors Stuart and Amen were called, and from them
we learn they have hopes of saving his leg. George was brought to town and
placed in a nice quiet room in the rear of Chas. B. Reed's drug store, where
he is receiving every attention.
SANDERS' MILL
This mill is located about a mile and a half northeast of town, and is now-
turning out a first class grade of flour. Read the proprietor's notice. It is our
intention of going through this and like establishments throughout the valley,
and then afford our readers full descriptions thereof. We can thus best show
to the outside world what we are doing.
THE "localizer"
The Kittitas Localizer, a new candidate for public favor, made its appear-
ance on Thursday morning. Its inside is made up of home news, w-hile the
outside is a "patent." It presents a neat and tidy appearance We judge from
the tenor of a communication admitted to its columns that it is opposed to
division.
PERSONALS
Col. Prosser, United States Timber Inspector, arrived by Wednesday's
stage. The Colonel, while here, will investigate the cause of the numerous
forest fires now raging in our mountains. On Monday E. D. Phelps arrived.
His presence was welcomed by numerous friends by many a hearty handshake.
MEN WANTED
Mr. J. J. Legge wants two experienced miners to take a contract for sinking
a well for him. The well is now down 31 feet, and he wants to sink it 55 feet
deeper. The work will require blasting and hence none but experienced work-
men in such matters need apply.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE
This Post Office is now a money order office. It fills a want long felt
in this section.
HORSE STEALING
A difficulty occurred on \\'ednesday between two native .Kmericans. Homer
and Indian Jack. The former stole the horse, saddle and blankets belonging
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 653
to the latter. Chase was given to him by friends of Jack, and he was captured
a short distance from town, and everything was recovered. A "good" Indian
is Hable to be made ere matters are settled between them.
FOR THE TE.\NAW.\Y
On Wednesday two teams laden with immigrants passed through town on
their way to the Teanaway Country. Between here and there it is said there
is a large quantity of vacant land. In the Teanaway neighborhood there
is said to be some excellent land.
FOR THE SOUND
Thursday last W. H. Crockette started for the Sound, via the Snoqualmie
Pass, with 150 head of fine beef cattle. They are intended for Tacoma, Seattle
and Olympia.
FOR THE CO.\L FIELDS
On last Wednesday morning a party of three, Humboldt Packwood, C.
Whiting and Mr. Kiser, started for the recently discovered anthracite coal fields.
BORN
In Kittitas Valley, July 9th, to the wife of J. T. Wilson, a son.
SHORT NOTES
Two of our principal citizens had a little set-to over the water question,
not a thousand miles from town, on Tuesday.
'Tis a hard fight — running a man out of town.
Smith Bros. & Co., sent out four teams on Wednesday laden with mer-
chandise— two for Peshastin, one for Miller & Freer on the Wenatchie, and
one for the N. P. R. R. force in the canyon.
Thos. Howe makes the finest mattresses in town.
The opponents of division are squirming. The first shot from our locker
is only the beginning of the campaign, but it hit square.
David Freer, of the Wenatchie, was over this week. He says Sam Miller
is happy.
Al. Lillie was up this week from Yakima looking for a location. He was
accompanied by Mr. Reed, the well-known musician.
Shoudy and Phelps started for the mines on Wednesday.
According to the Treasurer's statement the Executive Committee for the
Fourth received $64 in licenses and subscriptions. They have disbursed $52.90,
leaving a balance of $11.10 in the Treasury. Against this is a bill of $24 of J. L.
Mills for lumber. Take up a quarter subscription among the boys, and the
deficiency will soon be made up.
Whew ! But Sunday last was a hot day — 110 in the shade.
Mr. J. R. Smith, representative of D. M. Osborne & Co., of Portland, the
well known agricultural implement dealers, has been in town for a few days,
looking after the firm's interests.
654 HISTORY OF YAKLMA VALLEY
Charle\- Walker, a new comer, has obtained a situation at Leonhard's mill.
Thanks to W. S. Crouch for a sample of Golden Thread tobacco. It was
good.
A school exhibition is the next thing on the tapis.
Cooke & Sons have lost a number of young cattle from the black leg.
The smoke in our valley is caused by forest fires in the mountains. Rain
is needed.
Our farmers are now in the haying season. Crop excellent.
Parkins, photographer, will not stay long. Call early for picture.
Crops on both sides of the river will be excellent this year.
Rev. Dr. Nevius, missionary in the interest of the Episcopal church, has been
among us this week with a view of making an effort to establish a church
here. The Dr. held services at the school house on Wednesday and Thursday
evenings, to which an appreciative audience listened.
The wagon road company offer $35 per month for 100 men.
Geo. Preston tells us the force of men at work on the road over the moun-
tains are now about eight miles above the supply camp, and doing good work
as they go.
Old Harry has given up the idea of a skating rink and now proposes to
start a cranberry marsh.
Canaday District. — Through the courtesy of Mr. F. LeClerc, clerk of this
district, we have been furnished with a report. A term of three months has
just closed with Mr. Fancher as teacher. During the term the school was visited
once by the directors, and four times by different citizens. The number of
children attending, 17 — the average attendance being 12. The school was also
visited b}' the County Superintendent.
"Skookum" House. — Elsewhere will be found an account of a public meet-
ing, wherein the project of building a "skookum" house was broached. We
hope the people will take hold of this matter and put the thing through. \\'e
need a place wherein can be placed occasionally a few chronic drunks and
hoodlums.
Married. — At the residence of the bride's father, Yakima City, July 9th,
H. L. Tucker to Miss Jennie Leach. We acknowledge receipt of the compli-
ments of the occasion, and there is none who wish the couple greater happiness
than the editor of the ".Standard." May no clouds of adversity darken their
path through life.
Election. — Voters must remember that a special election, in this precinct,
for Justice, of the Peace, will take place at the schoolhouse next Saturday. The
polls will be open from 11 a. m. to 3 p. m. As yet we have not heard of
any candidates who aspire to fill the honors of the position.
Brick House. — Smith Brothers & Co. are hauling brick from Heigel's yard
to the vacant lot between their tinshop and the Board of Trade. It is their
intention to build a brick warehouse on the lot.
The "Standard" of July 7th of the same year gives a "story" of the cele-
bration of the Fourth which is one of the most interesting of all the early rec-
ords. We therefore include it at this point :
The morning of the Fourth dawned bright and clear. .Around the town
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 655
some of the public buildings were tastefully decorated with evergreens — the
Board of Trade and the corner saloons. Some display of bunting was mani-
fested. In fact, every man who had even the semblance of an American flag
had it displayed in some manner. At an early hour vehicles of every descrip-
tion from the aristocratic buggy to the everyday farm wagon, laden with resi-
dents from the country, began to appear upon our streets, and long before
ten o'clock the town was crowded with people coming from every section of
our valley. We noticed also a few familiar faces from the \\'enas and Yakima.
At about a quarter after ten o'clock the delegation from the West Side
drove into town under the leadership of S. T. Packwood and V. C. Wynegar.
It was headed by a liberty car, laden with young girls representing the difter-
ent States and Territories, over whom presided Miss Nora Sharp as Goddess
of Liberty. Marching down Main street to Third, down Third to the public
square this procession was there headed by the band wagon. Making a circle
arovmd the square once or twice an opportunity was given to all to join in
the procession. Owing to a slight delay in making preparations the liberty
car of the East Side did not make its appearance in the line until one or two
circles of the square had been completed. Finally, however, the huge car
joined the line. It was tastefully decorated in red, blue and white, over which
floated the national banner. Under the canopy were seated numerous young
ladies representing the different States and Territories, presided over by Miss
Clara Becker as Goddess of Liberty.
As soon as the car made its appearance in line, the procession again formed
under the combined leadership of G. W. Elliott, S. T. Packw^ood and V. C.
Wynegar, headed by William Mills as standard bearer, followed by the band
wagon, the liberty cars and a wagon containing the orator, Daniel Gaby ; and
President of the Day, W. H. Peter. In the rear of these came citizens in
vehicles and upon horseback. In making the circle of the public square we
counted eighty-seven wagons in line besides numerous horsemen.
After marching and countermarching through the streets several times
the line of march was taken up for the grounds, located about two miles ^vest
of town, in a beautiful grove. Before reaching the grounds numerous wagons
joined in line, causing it to lengthen out considerably. We induced a friend
whq was on horseback to ride back and count the number in line. He did so,
and informed us there were ninety-eight, exclusive of those on horseback,
w-hich were not counted.
Arriving at the ground the liberty cars were unladen and their precious
contents given seats in front of the grand stand. Here an immense crowd
had already assembled. Through the grove numerous stands, where lemonade
and candies were sold, had also been erected. Fronting the seats a huge stand
well sheltered from the rays of the sun had been erected, and back of the seats,
the tables. The committee having this work in charge deserve praise for
their efforts.
About half-past eleven the crowd was called to order by the President of
the Day, infonning them that exercises would begin in five minutes.
The exercises were begun by a "Greeting Song" from the choir, which
656 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
was composed as follows: Miss Carrie Becker, Mrs. Werthien, Mrs. Becker,
and J. H. Naylor. The song was well rendered.
The President then introduced' Miss Irene Cumberlin, as reader of the
Declaration of Independence. This lady has a voice of peculiar power and
compass, and her reading of this immortal document was almost faultless.
Song by the choir, "Our Country's Natal Mom."
The President then introduced the Orator, Daniel Gaby. The oration of
this gentleman did not follow in the usual rut of Fourth of July addresses, but
aBounded in practical wisdom and sense. Yet it was patriotic in tone. His
views on sumptuary laws and the railroad question we indorse.
Song by the choir, "Red, White and Blue."
The President then introduced R. V. Chadd, who read an original poem
upon "Kittitas Valley." Before reading Mr. Chadd stated he was not the au-
thor, but that one of the fair residents of our valley, whose "nom de plume"
was "Mattie" was entitled to that honor. At the request of numerous readers
we republish the poem:
KITTITAS V.XLLEY
No fairer vale was ever sung.
No better theme could poet know,
Or far, or near, for pen or tongue,
Than picture in the morning glow,
Our valley home, inviting all —
Environed by a mountain wall.
Afar, the rugged mountains rise,
Cold, gleaming in the morning sun,
Reaching as if to meet the skies.
I fondly turn to them, as one
Would turn to greet a long tried friend,
I'nswerving, constant to the end.
The growing fields, on every side.
Proclaim a bounteous harvest near;
The cooling waters dance and glide.
With wild flowers springing everywhere.
While health inspiring breezes blow,
And kiss the cheek to ruddy glow.
Anear. a thousand beauties spring.
In ])leasing form to greet the eyes :
Afar, the towering mountains fling
A glory on the earth and skies,
That lifts, and fills, and thrills the soul
.'\bove, beyond the will's control.
T love the mountains most of all ;
Somehow they are so grandly free ;
u^
1^,
A
1
•
i
-niBiim-. '
TWO VI?:WS OF PEARL STREET, ELLENSBT-R(!
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 657
A nameless gladness seems to fall
In restful joy from them to me,
Such as I never elsewhere know,
Save where the sea tides come and go.
Dark, frowning sentinels ye stand,
Thro' all the good God's changing years
Unchanged: To ye I lift my hand.
And turn my eyes with reverent tears
As turns a weary child to rest.
Blameless, upon its mother's breast.
The President then introduced R. M. Canaday, who informed the audience
he had something particular for them to hear. After arousing considerable
interest bv his remarks he proposed three cheers for that immortal Declara-
tion of Independence. They were given with a will.
Song by the choir, "Marching Through Georgia."
The President then announced the judges on cake and bouquet. On the
cake Messrs. Chadd. Wynegar and Elliott were appointed. On the bouquet:
J. N. Naylor, J. J. Suver and W. H. Peterson. After announcing these com-
mittees Mr. Peter announced to the audience the tables were at their disposal,
and later in the day he would announce further exercises from the stand.
The committee awarded the prize for the most tastefully arranged bouquet
to Miss M. Roland.
A rush was made to secure seats at the tables, and there not being room
enough for all many adjourned to the shade of some tree, and there spread a
bounteous collation. At' the invitation of J. D. Damman, the editor of the
"Standard" dined. It is perhaps needless to say he partook of all the goodies
spread out under the sylvan shades by the deft hand of the estimable wife of
the aforesaid gent. Excusing ourselves as quickly as possible after dinner, we
proceeded in the discharge of duty. We %isited, in company with the balance
of the committee, numerous little parties. We tasted of all their goodies and
cakes, and have not as yet made up our minds as to who had tlfe best. Really
all were so good that the committee found it impossible to decide. Some fair
hand had covered a small grindstone with nice frosting. It looked very tempt-
ing and nice, and we were invited to sample it. We would have been nicely
sold had we not a moment before observed that the President of the Day had
vainly endeavored to cut a slice from the aforesaid "cake." V
Shortly after dinner the crowd was again called to order by the President,
who informed them that foot and horse races, advertised for the occasion,
would take place oh the track, about a mile north of town, and that but a
short time would elapse before they would take place.
Two-thirds of those present started for the track. Arriving there, the
first race announced was the fat man's race. For this race two entries were
made, the distance run being fifty yards. Jacob Becker was the winner over
his contestant, L. C. Wynegar.
The second race was a foot race, free for all, 100 yards. In this race
there were ten contestants, as follows : H. S, Anderson, G. C. Charlton, ]. M.
(42)
658 HISTORY OF YAKIMA ^•ALLEY
Gilmour, 11. Willard, R. Billups, J. Grow, B. Coleman, G. W. Elliott, Alva
Yokum, and Jacob Becker. The last named gent won the race. Time, 13 sec-
onds, and over a bad track. Anderson came in second, and Charlton third.
The third was a horse race, which was announced by Mr. Elliott as a
quarter mile race, free for all, for a $20 purse. $5 entrance. Billy Mills entered
his yellow mare "Fanny," Barnesy More entered his bay horse "Barney Hagan,"
and the McEwens and Anderson entered the bay stallion, "Phil Sheridan."
The latter was the favorite, and easily won the race by a half-dozen lengths.
This was the last race of note. Bandry and Dix, however, afterwards got
up a slow race between two mules in which both were winners. This race
created some amusement. After this a majority of the people returned to
town, while a few w-ent home.
The day's festivities were closed by a grand ball in the evening at Elliott's
Hall. The music for the occasion was furnished by Barnett's string band, and
there was a supper at the Valley Hotel. Both were exceptionally good. Dancing
was kept up till a late hour the next morning.
To sum up: The Fourth of July, 1883, will long be remembered by those
participating as one of the most pleasant events which has happened in our
beautiful valley.
\Ye may also interrupt the course of our narrative at some length just
here to present some correspondence for the "Standard"' from Swauk and
other places in the vicinity. Such pictures, right off the film, so to speak, con-
vey, in the author's judgment, more vivid impressions of the real spirit of the
time than more formal and dignified history which has to be warmed over to
make it palatable.
PICNIC TO SWAUK AND VICINITY
Ed. Standard — Thinking a few notes of a picnic excursion of a party of
Ellensburghers, who left here on the morning of July 3d, would be of interest
to your readers, I herewith transmit the following: Aurora had scarcely opened
the portals of the morning ere we had started upon our intended picnic to the
sylvan shades of Swauk. Our happy, joyous party consisted of the following
persons: Miss L. Leaming, Miss C. Maxey, Miss S. Maxey, Miss Annie Sallad,
Messrs. J. McCloud, G. Hoge, M. Maxey, C. Maxey and J. J. McGrath. The gents
of the party had generously procured a four-horse team, two saddle horses and all
the luxuries of the market. Merrily we traveled onward, fanned by the gentle
zephyrs of morning until we reached Dry Creek, where a bounteous midday
repast seemed to reanimate us with an elasticity of spirit unknown to the weary
habitat of the city. Again we journey toward the everlasting hills that seem
like silent sentinels in the dim distance, 'pass through Swauk's environed hills,
and reach about twilight the clear meandering Teanaway, with its picturesque
scenery that amply repays the visit of the tourist. Here we pitch camp and
after a pleasant evening spent in song, jest and merriment we enjoyed the
sweet embrace of Morpheus in the realms of dreamland. After an earl\ breakfast
we journey back to Swauk, and here, by the way, noticed hundreds of acres
of good rich, tillable soil that will in the near future be dotted with bright and
happy homes. Continuing our journey in the bracing mountain air we soon
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 659
find ourselves once more in the romantic vale of Swauk, encircles by auriferous
hills, whose hidden wealth may yet build the fairest city of our Territory in the
fertile vale of Kittitas. Proceeding up Swauk Valley, enjoying the beauties of
nature and the wild and picturesque scenery that surrounded us on every hand,
ere the sun had set in the west, we pitched camp in a beautiful retreat near
by the golden sands of Swauk — a fit abode for the gods. Here we spent three
bright, sunny days in prospecting, berrying, and visits to the various mining
camps. We had here the pleasure of an exhibit of gold nuggets from Mr. Woolery
of $145 taken from a piece of ground 12 feet long and 8 feet wide. We also
visited the mining claim of Messrs. Pike and Black and found those gentlemen
working with a will evidently assured that success would crown their efforts.
We also had the gratification of a visit to the famous Homolake quartz ledge,
controlled and owned by Mr. Quitsch and company. We found Mr. Livingstone
and Mr. Toy in charge of the quartz mill, were received very courteously by
these genial, whole-souled gentlemen and were shown everything pertaining to
the modus operandi of crushing and extracting the precious metal. With that
courtesy characteristic of the true gentleman Mr. Livingstone kindly conducted
us to the principal ledge of the company, located on a mountain at an elevation
of 3,200 feet above sea level. After a pleasant jaunt over a good wagon road we
finally reached this elevated ledge and were amply rewarded by the prospect
that greeted our vision. Before us in plain sight lay any amount of gold-
bearing quartz that only awaits capital and labor, to enrich and develop all the
various avenues of trade. After obtaining specimens we wend our way down
the mountain side to the quartz mill where we partook of a splendid supper kindly
tendered by Mr. Livingstone, and here, Mr. Editor, we feel that we would be
ingrates indeed if we did not return many thanks to Mr. Livingstone for his
kind and generous friendship. Once more the shades of night overtake us, the
usual camp fire pleasantries are enjoyed, and at early dawn preparations are
made to return to home and duty. After a long and pleasant drive with nothing
to mar the pleasure of the occasion we arrive in EUensburgh, proceed to the
photographers and have one dozen grouped photos taken just as we were. Thus
ended one of the most pleasant picnics that it has been my privilege to par-
ticipate in, and no doubt we shall all treasure up in the tablet of memory
recollections of the pleasant hours spent together on this occasion.
One of the Boys,
letter from sw.\uk
Eds. Standard — Dear Sir: Enclosed please find amount of six months'
subscription to your interesting little paper which you will forward to me here
by mail until further notice. And although I do not wisii to be styled your
regular correspondent, will be happy to give you any little news which may be
floating around this sadly neglected mining camp, and bring before your readers
the name of Swauk once more, in whose unexplored banks is precious metal to
amply reward the hardy prospector. Among the tried veterans I will mention
Mr. Black, who is running a bed rock drain prior to opening up his diggings. In
the last two weeks he has run 60 feet of drain 6 feet deep and 6 feet wide, and
walled up on both sides, and two and a half feet in bed rock. Mr. Pike had to
quit ground sluicing, as the water has given out on Baker Creek, where he
660 HISTORY OF YAKI.MA \ALLEV
takes the supply. Mr. Boxall is running a drain race to tap his diggings, where
he expects to get some good sized nuggets. Mr. Woolery is running his main
tunnel hack to strike the channel. The work has been rather slow, as the cement
is down to the bed rock. He is cutting down about three feet of bed rock and
expects to be in the channel shortly. Mr. Ramos is running a tunnel above
Baker Creek, on the east side of the Swauk. He is now in thirty feet and finds
the bed rock pitching into the hill. He seems confident of finding a channel
where none was supposed to exist.
There are two companies of Chinamen working on the creek with fair
results. Messrs. Elliott and Devore, below the mouth of Deer Creek, are driving
away at their sluices and will be ready for washing shortly. We had a pleasant
visit from a party of picnickers, whose names I do not remember, who visited
Mr. Woolery 's tunnel and were somewhat surprised at the modus operandi of
getting at the nuggets, which Mr. Woolery kindly showed them. The party
enjoyed themselves on the hills in pursuit of the most luscious of all fruit, the
strawberry, and went away no doubt pleased with their trip. Supervisor Allen,
of the Swauk district, passed through here last week, on the rampage for men
to work on the road, which sadly needs repair. Mr. Whitman, an old Comstock
miner, with McCormick's express, passed through here today for Peshastin, in-
tending to take charge of the Lockwood- Johnson mine. Should this gentleman
take the reins of government at this mine, people will see better results from
the Peshastin mines than ever before known. The gentleman is certainly quali-
fied in every particular to make the mine a success, which is all that is necessary.
Mr. Wentz took his family down to the valley today, and will leave them
down there for a while, his wife not being in the best of health. He will return
in a day or two and will then strike out prospecting. Mr. and Mrs. Shroud came
up here yesterday on a little pleasure trip and went down this morning. Jansen's
pack train passed through for Peshastin this morning, loaded with .supplies for
the mines. And now, as I have unloaded myself of all that Swauk will at present
permit, I remain. Respectfully.
Prospector.
From the "Standard" of December 8th, we extract a description of the
Ellensburgh of that date which contains much valuable matter.
ELLEXSBURGH
"Standard," December 8, 1883. — \\'e are not ashamed of the following
statement concerning our town, valley and surroundings, sent by Postmaster
Reed to Charles S. Fee, assistant superintendent of traffic. Northern Pacific
Railroad, in response to a circular from that gentleman asking for the same:
"First, Ellensburgh is located about one mile north of the Yakima River.
Second, population 450, an increase in two years of 400. Third, water-power
abundant by using water of the Yakima. Fourth, has two hotels, capacity
1.50: one National hank, capital $50,000: two public halls, also an Odd Fellows
and Ancient Order United Workmen combined, and a Masonic hall, four
general merchandise stores, carrying $.50,000 in stocks: six retail stores and
sundry minor establishments, shops, etc. : two newspapers, two livery stables
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 661
and a fine t\vp-story public school building erected entirely by private subscrip-
tions. Fifth, in immediate vicinity are five grist mills of ten to twenty barrel:
capacity and excellent equipment. Also three sawmills, capacity eight to
twenty thousand feet per day. Sixth, in adjacent mountains $75,000 in placer
and $100,000 in quartz gold has been taken out by primitive process and during
the past season an extensive field bearing copper ore (black oxide) assaying
from 50 to 80 per cent, copper and carrying $15 to $1,000 in silver per ton
has been discovered. In the same vicinity large bodies of magnetic iron ore
of high grade have long been known to exist and in the last six weeks a belt
of bituminous coal (pronounced the best yet discovered in Washington Terri-
tory) lying in veins of five to eight feet has been discovered adjoining the
copper and iron fields and immediately upon the line of the proposed Cascade
division of your road. Seventh, Ellensburgh is located in the center of Kittitas
\'alley and is the county seat of Kittitas County, recently established by legis-
lative action. The valley proper, comprises twenty by thirty miles of well
watered, highly productive agricultural prairie lands : to the east and south
are almost bo'undless bunchgrass grazing lands, and upon the north and west
are half open, half timbered lands extending back into the Cascade Mountain
range. Eighth, productions are grain, hay and vegetables of all kinds, crops
never fail and will compare favorably in quality and amount, to the acre, with
those of any pther section in the Northwest (or anywhere else), large numbers
of cattle, horses, sheep and hogs are also grown. Ninth, our shipments are
live-stock to the amount of $500,000 per annum, driven chiefly over the Sno-
quahnie Pass wagon road to Puget Sound markets: and wood hauled 150 miles
by wagon and shipped to Portland, Oregon. Tenth, in game we have deer,
bear, grouse, prairie and sage chickens, ducks, and geese : while in fish, everv
stream carries in season fine salmon and speckled trout. Eleventh, our neigh-
boring towns are Yakima City, 50 miles, stage fare $5 : Ainsworth, 125 miles,
stage fare, $15; The Dalles, Oregon, 150 miles, fare $15— daily stages; and
Seattle, Washington Territory, 125 miles. To reach the latter the Snoqualmie
Pass wagon road is being constructed upon which mail service has been ordered
and by which the stage fare will be $12."
The foregoing statement is one every person at all acquainted with our
section can heartily endorse and will certainly prove to the world at large that
Kittitas County comes into existence with a queenly natural dowry.
In this connection also we shall find much interest in a list of "first things
in Ellensburgh," prepared by Mr. Gerrit d'Ablaing.
FIRST IN THE CITY OF EI.LFNSBURGII, KITTITAS COUNTY, WASHINGTON
1868 The first settler that took up a claim where Ellensbtirgh now stands was
a man by the name of William Wilson, known as "Bud" Wilson. He
started the first log cabin.
1869 Wilson sold out to A. Jack Splawn and he finished the Wilson log
1870 cabin and started a trading post in 1870 and called it the "Robber's
Roost."
1871 Splawn sold out to John A. Shoudy and he built another story to the
log cabin and carried more merchandise in it ; most of the merchandise
at that time was brought in on pack horses ; a man by the name of
662 HISTORY OF YAKBIA VALLEY
Cooper hauled the first load of merchandise from Tlie Dalles, Oregon,
by wagon.
1872 John A. Shoudy built the first frame store in EUensburgh.
1875 John A. Shoudy and his wife Ellen, platted the first 80 acres of land
called "The Original Town of EUensburgh." The town was named
after Mrs. Shoudy.
The first Postmaster was John A. Shoudy in 1882.
EUensburgh became the County seat of Kittitas County November 24, 1883.
The Northern Pacific Railroad was finished to EUensburgh in 1886.
The first City Election was held February 26, 1886.
The first City Councilmen were elected February 26, 1886. They were Fred-
erick Leonhard, Mathias Becker, Thomas Johnson, George Elliott, and
F. S. Schnebley.
The first Mayor was Austin Mires, February 26, 1886.
The first City Officials were all appointed on February 26, 1886.
The first City Clerk was Samuel L. Blumauer.
The first City Treasurer was Henry Rehmke.
The first City .\ssessor and Surveyor was John R. Wallace.
The first City Street Commissioner was L. Pool.
The first City Marshal was Moses Boleman.
The first Hotel was "Shazer House," owned by George Shazer.
The first Livery Stable was owned by E. N. Lyen & Sons.
The first Blacksmith shop was owned by Jacob Becker Sr.
The first Drug store was owned by A. Lawrence. *■
The first Newspaper, called "Wau-Wau," was by Bell & Bryant.
The first Candy store was owned by Bell & Bryant.
The first Barber shop was owned by George Elliott.
The first Millinery store was owned by Mrs. Schnebly (A. M.)
The first Harness shop was owned by Church & McCloud.
The first Bank was owned by A. W. Engle, cashier.
The first Fruit store was owned by L. Herman.
The first Lumber yard was owned by F. Leonhard.
The first Planing mill was owned by Pressey & Sprague.
The first Restaurant was owned by W. B. Price.
The first Saloon was owned by J; W. Jewett.
The first Billiard table was owned by Humboldt Packwood.
The first Church was the Presbyterian church.
The first Minister of Presbyterian church was Rev. J. R. Thompson.'
The first Physician was Doc. M. \^, Amen.
The first Creamery 'plant was owned by Jas. Gass.
The first Lodging house was owned by Crout.
The first Law office was owned by S. C. Davidson.
The first Carpenter shop was owned by Dillon.
The first Building contractor was Martin Sautter.
The first Real Estate office & Insurance, F. Leonhard.
The first Music teacher was Mrs. Van Dussen.
The first Painter and paper hanger was Wm. Beans.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 663
The first Automobile built here by Leveridge.
The first Brick layers were Hegel & Son.
The first Bookstore was owned by Harry Arment.
The first Schoolhouse was The Ellensburgh Academy.
The first Notion store and second hand store, owned by E. A. Willis.
The first Auctioneer was Wolff.
The first Tin shop was owned by W. B. Starr.
The first Shoe store was owned by John R. Wallace.
The first Bakery was owned by Rehmke Bros.
The first Jewelers were Rehmke Bros.
The first Cigar store and factory was owned by Frank Nagler.
The first Furniture store was owned by Thos. Howe.
The first Hardware and implement store was owned by Frank Williams.
The first Shoemaker was Elliott.
The first Music store was owned by W. A. Privett.
The first Photographer was Frisbee.
The first Sewing machine agent was H. C. Ackley.
The first Telegraph operator was A. C. Parks.
The first N. P. train dispatcher was N. V. Stevens.
The first Express agent was A. M. Hall.
The first Men's tailor shop was owned by John Geiger.
The first Dressmaker was Miss Ada Jude.
The first Dentist was Doctor Cutting.
The first School principal was J. S. Bingham.
The first Gun and locksmith was Andrew Stevenson.
The first L''ndertaker was W. L. Webb.
The first Brewery (Ellensburgh Brewery) was owned by Becker & Shang.
The first Dance hall was Elliott's Hall.
The first Dancing Club (Friday Night Club), I. N. Power, pres. ; H. Thielson,
treas. ; G. d'Ablaing, sec.
The first Court room was at Elliott's Hall.
The first Brick building was the Geddis building.
The first Steam laundry was owned bv S. S. Rhinehard.
The first Foundry was owned by John Cornthwaite.
The first Abstractor was Judge James G. Boyle.
The first Hothouse was owned by Joseph Clymer.
The first Plumber was Edw. C. Ferguson.
The first Soda works owned by Freiberger & Baskins.
The first Plasterer was R. R. Morrison.
The first Opera House (Lloyd Opera House), Coply Lloyd, manager.
The first Band leader was Reed.
The first Brick veneer dwelling house was owned by Renfro.
The first Butcher shop was owned by Salsbury.
The first Librarian at the Carnegie library was Mrs. J. B. Davidson.
The first City water works was owned by B. E. Craig.
The first City electric light works was owned by John A. Shoudy.
The first Free mail delivery was August 7, 1908. ' '
664 HISTORY OF YAKBIA VALLEY
From the issue of the "Standard'" of December 8th, already used, we take
an interesting local item referring to the return of J. A. Shoudy in triumph
form his success in securing the passage of the bill providing for the creation
of Kittitas County. From the issue of December 29th we take several locals.
Following this series of locals, is an account of the county. This account might
very fittingly appear in the chapter on the county, but by reason of its connec-
tion with other items we include it here.
December 8, 1883.
Returned — On Tuesday evening the Hon. John A. Shoudy returned from
the field of his legislative labors at Olympia. Coming upon us without notice
'twould be folly to say that a large concourse gathered to congratulate him upon
his successful mission and safe return, but we do venture to say that the gentle-
man has no charge of lack of heartiness to bring against his numerous friends
who, before the intelligence of his arrival had grown cold upon the lips of their
informant, began firing anvils, guns and side arms, had a huge bonfire lighted
and were making the welkin ring with "Hurrah for Shoudy," "Come out and
show yourself," etc., etc. Responding Mr. Shoudy stated his gratification at
being able to once more greet his friends upon their own "De-late-close-Ill-a-
he" and briefly recounted the most important episodes attendant upon his leg-
islative trip assuring his hearers (to which we've yet to hear a dissenting voice),
that he had done all in his power to faithfully advance and protect their inter-
ests in the late Legislative Assembly. Being* greeted with three cheers and a
tiger, Mr. Shoudy retired, and Mr. J. T. McDonald "said something" to the
assemblage that led them to adjourn to The Corner with avidity.
December 29, 1883.
TOWN .\ND COUNTY
The Tjossem Mume. — The flume projected from Tjossem's sawmill to the
mouth of the canyon below is estimated to cost thirty-five hundred to five
thousand dollars. This we understand the mill owner is determined to build,
and it will prove a thing of convenience and profit and hence satisfaction to
all concerned, as much difficult hauling by wagon over bad roads will by use
of this flume be avoided. From the mouth of the canyon to EUensburgh, or
any other central point upon the east side, this flume may be constructed at a
much less proportionate cost per mile than that from the mill to the mouth of
the canyon. Mr. Tjossem offers, we believe, to join means and forces with
interested citizens and extend the flume to some such central point, making the
flume a co-partnership or joint stock aft'air. entirely independent from the saw
mill business. By such an arrangement the flume would be available for the
carriage and delivery at any point along the line of lumber, fencing, wood, etc.,
regular tariff rates being established, based upon the distance from the head of
the flume to the point at which freight might be discharged. Such a projeat
should certainly commend itself to any community similarly situated to that of
this locality and scarcely requires particular notice at our hand. Cheap lumber,
fencing and fuel will settle and build up quickly any country that has other
qualities capable of development, and it is only necessary to look into the work-
HISTORY OF YAKLMA VALLEY ■ 665
ings of flumes in other sections to quickly perceive that by such means building-
material, fencing and fuel is much more cheaply and quickly transported than
by any other available method. This is true even where flumes are in the hands
of monopolists, and the acquaintance our people 'have with JMr. Tjossem is
doubtless a sufficient guarantee that a flume or anything else with which his
name may be connected will be run upon a "live and let live" principle.
A. O. U. W. Ball. — According to the posters this was "the affair of the
season." Indeed, the Committee of Arrangements worked hard to make it so.
For weeks before the event they were making preparations for it. The hall
was tastefully decorated with evergreens and with emblems pertaining to the
order, while a decided improvement had been made at the head of the stairs
by closing them up with the exception of a door. This had a tendency to make
the hall more comfortable, and kept the bummers out. The hall was crowded
— some ninety-three numbers being sold. At an early hour dancing commenced,
and notwithstanding the large number present we believe all had all the dancing
they wanted — as many as ten sets being on the floor at once. The music in the
early part of the evening was good — not so in the latter part when a change
in one of the musicians was made. Still later, however, this was rectified. The
supper at the Valley Hotel was very good. Finally the ball was a success in
every respect.
Good Assays. — Walter A. Bull & Company, this week, received from the
U. S. Mint very .satisfactory average sample assays from two of their claims in
the Cle-el-um district. Number One yielding in gold $301.40, silver $94.00„
Total value per ton $395.40. Number Two yielding in gold -$15.07, silver, $.94.
Total $16.01. These assay returns are especially gratifying to the owners, since
they prove the correctness of previous assays ranging as high as $191.00 per ton.
As many as five packages of samples per week, containing twelve to fifteen
samples from diiiferent mining prospects, are sent by this firm to prominent
mining and milling people throughout the world, and through their efforts the
character of our mineral developments of last season will be pretty well under-
stood in time for intelligent action next season.
Subscription School. — Miss Irene Cumberlin, our county school superin-
tendent, and whose qualifications as a teacher are too well known to require
any encomiums of praise from us, will commence a term of subscription school
at the schoolhouse on the second Tuesday in January. The term will last three
months, for which the low price of three dollars is asked.
Third Anniversary. — The Union Sabbath school will, on the second Sab-
bath in January, celebrate its third anniversary. A concert and exhibition will
be given in honor of the occasion. The programme will be published in the
"Standard." Hence keep your paper for reference.
Has an Appointment. — Hon. J. A. Shoudy has the appointment of one
free scholarship to the University. He requests us to give notice that all who
666 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
mav desire to avail themselves of the privilege will make immediate applica-
tion to him. The choice will be decided by lot.
New Sign. — Coleman, the saddler, has treated himself to a new sign. It is
the work of one of our local artists, and is tasty and neat.
To "Nanim." — Would be pleased to answer your inquiries, but you forgot
to send your name.
111. — We regret to hear of the illness of the wife of Dr. Laurendeau.
Pure drugs. Fresh drugs. Best drugs at Watson Bros.
KITTIT.XS COUNTY
In response to the inquiry of B. X. Carrier, Esq., a prominent attorney and
real estate dealer of Minneapolis, Minnesota, and for the information of others
who may desire to know, the following facts are stated with reference to Kitti-
as County. This county has just been set ol¥ from Yakima County by legisla-
tive action, is bounded upon the north and east by the Columbia River, upon
the north and west by the Cascade Range of mountains and upon the south and
west by the boundaries of Yakima County. Its principal body of land available
for settlement is Kittitas Valley, fifteen by twenty miles in extent, which being
centrally situated, together with other natural reasons, debars any possibility
of further divisions. The valley is well settled so far as government lands are
concerned, but surrounding it are bunchgrass rolling hill lands that will with-
out doubt prove valuable as grain producing lands when railroad communica-
tion shall aiiford us a ready market for that class of productions. In the foot-
hills of the Cascade Range, sloping well up to the summit, are large bodies of
half open, half timbered lands, government and railroad, that have been proven
to be very productive, and which, during the past season, have attracted and
secured many actual settlers. In the valley are many sections of prairie rail-
road land, open for settlement, with probability in favor of the settler being
compelled to pay $2.60 cash or $4 on credit per acre under the present manage-
ment of the Northern Pacific Railway ; or any price future management of that
company may ask when the Cascade division of that company's road shall have
been constructed through the lands in question. The altitude of this valley is
1,475 feet; snow fall, eighteen inches: average temperature. Summer. 85 de-
grees ; Winter, zero. Climate is exceedingly healthy ; no epidemics have ever
prevailed. Believed to be favorable climate for people with weak lungs, as dur-
ing its twelve years' habitation by whites we do not know of one case per annum
of death from lung complaints. Our people are noted for their hale, hearty ap-
pearance. Our fruit prospects are up to average in hardy climates. A few
years ago it was believed (even here) that we could raise nothing but beef,
mutton and hor.ses and that we would have to send to Portland for our white
beans. Wheat was two dollars a bushel and the flour used in the valley was
ground in cofl'ee mills (an actual fact) and at close of the first season's settle-
ment, two ot our pioneer agriculturists rode up to the pioneer cabin of the re-
maining third with all their worldly goods laden upon two pack animals and
urged him to purchase the same on the ground that he had all the agricultural
land available in this county within the limits of his quarter section claim. Today
HISTORY OF YAKIMA \^\LLEY 667
the self -same three men have four thousand acres of land under cultivation
that will turn of¥ from one to three tons of timothy hay, or twenty-five to sixty
bushels of grain per acre. The county has a population of 2,200 inhabitants
who have grown this year 125,000 bushels of grain more than is required for
home consumption, three thousand tons of hay, and a proportionate amount of
other agricultural products in like excess. Today our exports are confined to
the fitting of live stock for Puget Sound markets, the same being driven on foot
via the Snoqualmie Pass wagon road. Our imports are hauled by wagon from
The Dalles, Oregon, one hundred and fifty miles distant, because our capabili-
ties and needs have been ignored by the only navigation company plying the
waters of the Columbia River, although we have an easily accessible landing
upon that stream thirty-five miles distant. Seattle, Washington Territory, the
principal city upon Puget Sound, is one hundred and twenty-five miles distant,
via Snoqualmie Pass, the lowest and most available route over the Cascade
Mountain range. Through Ellensburgh and this county, and via the "Stamp-
ede," a pass diverging from the Snoqualmie, the proposed Cascade division of
the Northern Pacific Railroad has been located, and some work has been re-
cently done upon this location in the Yakima canyon below this town. This
work has been stopped, and rumor has it that the Natches Pass (farther west)
will be adopted. Should this rumor prove well founded this county will doubt-
less be favored by the Northern Pacific Company with only a branch of that
railway. During the past season a wagon road has been under construction to
Seattle, which will doubtless be completed next summer.
Along the line of this road are magnificent bodies of pine, fir and cedar tim-
ber, while adjacent to it, and tributary to this valley, have been discovered large
bodies of magnetic iron and copper, assaying as high as 80 per cent. Gold and
silver-bearing lodes, assaying by sample selections, $15 to $400 per ton, and
last, but by no means least, coking coal, in veins ranging on top as high as four
feet in thickness. Under the circumstances, together with the fact that we are
situated upon the absolutely direct line to Puget Sound, our valley and the
Snoqualmie Pass can not be ignored, when short line and rapid transit shall
enter into the railroad prospects, and will increase our population and produc-
tions to an almost fabulous extent when railway projectors shall favor us with
their consideration. Ellensburgh temporarily (and in all probability perma-
nently) our county seat has at a low estimate a population of 450 souls an
increase (in moderate figures) of three hundred souls in three years. We
have a neat two-story public schoolhouse, erected by private subscription, four
large general merchandise stores, each carrying a fifty thousand dollar stock :
two weekly newspapers together with numerous minor mercantile and mechani-
cal establishments suitable to the requirements of the population. Adjacent to
the town are five grist mills, with a joint capacity of sixty barrels per day. In
the county are five sawmills (all water-power but one) ; easily run throughout
the Summer season to their fullest capacity.
Gold mines adjacent to the valley have been worked for some six years by
primitive processes and inexperienced workers, yielding in that period some
one hundred and fifty or two hundred thousand dollars, and prospects now war-
rant the enlistment of capital and introduction of complete working apparatus.
ZC&
3RY OF YAKDIA VALLEY
the Coinmbiz Rhia, is covered
:rtiaa of die coimt
-bo^Htable, nor a tetotaDy
-rovCed dzmi to the t^kii^
TOBtaer section of die ^dbe
rpeciaE^
-.e Oirrgtmag tree, tugeUier
ifctit.. Tsrietis
Xeck-ise Par-. _— ,- _■. ..
aetmcEvi tfayr a ineck-aBe partr ^
if^tpcrirrg We feeSev^ if we zse
^r7ip ILiit:Hfr. £^eir ^-'at^TiT Bifc-^^ JLe ivT
Esecfc-iiie wieIe asE ainnsEi (K" dsess
die
: =^e
EnicfeKBEg siEpger.
Has c
of 1±
Asaei '
We
New- Year's
pnce oi ai._r',
s we hear is tfcsi of the
=etn sod JoinKon, in tiie
z of W9san Credc
Mr.
2saT
lands tMi wire
rof fence. Tbe
srssET acEE^
rratdr
Isja-c beic-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA \ V-IL^V 659
Bros. & Co, are too well kncnrn for tlieir rosds^ prodiritxs m mskt it nacss-
saiT to add that the people want to see tfaem pidl lluuu^
Disdbarged. — For sooie dme tliese has been oonaderafale petij thiermg^
goii^ <« aroand town. Finally sa^ickm rested on a maai t1» saddeah- Ie&
here week bebHe last for Yakima. A w.m«mt was swona asst, and he was
broc^ht back here and esammed before JosOce Cia% on Fzidaj- mtsmsg. There
not beb^ sufficient evidence to wanant oonrictioo die pcisoaer was discbaiged.
The costs were ta:^ partlj to the oounty and in peit to the nww|feflwiig wit-
ness.
Watson Bros. — The abore-oar:ei --r ej-.i':E^ied dn^ bosi-
ness three Aocfrs west of Fii?i Xi: n^ieSe and w^D
assorted stcyk of tralet arricks. jj- r?, Prescf^dons
carefnllj con^oonded, day «■ n^: . £ b Mted
with the fin^t and the best goods -. ^otld. It
is. ia fact, a ooorolete dn^ estabH- " . : _ -_ .
New Firn:. — ^As indicated soEiedrae sr^r? >Tesf-? l>Z-c-r; S: W-aSer have
jo^sed their fortsn^ in the |dain snd x^r ; :ianess at
the Dilloii shop in Sm^'s addition to Z are both
reliable. acoompE^ied worionen as —^ - .. : -jtsa&mfkk
win testijhr, and with a wcD equip; t r -sre ps^eAct for
the new firm plenty of wiHk and sz
Chaise. — The VaDey Hotel fe , ; lairay. has been
placed, we bdiet^ under the msm^ :ru leceniiy with
Smith Bros. & Co_, and fonnerfy o: _. > .rrr .r -z-O^rrsiand imn to hxve
been an espeiieooed hotd k^;per. We wi^ hsra soogks in h^ new loSe.
Social Dance. — A social dance was giveai by Mr. D. W'. DiDoo on Satnniay
tsght at the openii^ iip of bis new ^lop. We regret a pnos' ci^agoaent pre-
rented oor attendance, bat bear it was a pkasam aSair.
At Cost. — ^Shondy & Stewait hsvs marked damn at cost all kinds of VrrH-
goods, soch as scarfs, nobias, hoods, carfioal jackets, ere
Fine Beer. — We are iader:ei :: :-~ ElccJCi-isi for a kes
It is first^ciass in CTery respect.
Goi^ UpL — In defiance of ie ^e^^^er ].^ani- Sarrirer works sts^t an ids
rsew bnildii^ on Main Street.
For drags, medicijies. ic Ac: ms" rrescrirQans ^o
Laorendean's Citv Dn:r- — : '''■-- - ■
It is a wdl know- - . ;;: " — 'reries, pro-dsaoos
and tobaccos is 2: Liurer.cej.u s.
670 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \ALLEY
THE CHRISTMAS TREE
As per announcement the programme of tlie Christmas tree entertainment
was carried out to the letter on Monday evening at the schoolhouse. A raised
platform had been constructed in the rear end of the hall and before which slid-
ing curtains were drawn, preventing the large audience which had assembled,
from observing how well things had been arranged upon the stage. A few mo-
ments before the curtains were drawn aside at the invitation of one of the mem-
ber of the Literary Society we stepped behind the curtain and observed how
well and tastefully everything had been arranged, showing conclusively the ladies
had exercised their usual good judgment. Two large trees had been provided,
and these were laden from top to lower limbs with numerous presents. Between
the trees and in the center of the stage the organ was placed at which Mr. A. W.
Engel presided. .\t eight o'clock the curtains were drawn, and the jiresidenl of
the society stepped forward and announced the song, "Happy are We to Greet
You." This was well rendered by a full choir. An appropriate prayer was
given by Mr. T. H. Look, followed by another song by the choir, "Merry
Christmas." The president, Mr. J. B. Davidson, then stepped forward and
delivered the opening address. His address referred particularly to the origin
of Christmas, and the good to mankind which has resulted in the establishment
of rhis Christian holiday. At the conclusion of the address the speaker was
warmly applauded. The subject of Mr. D. G. C. Baker's essay was "Christmas."
As he was called for he stepped forward and in a clear and forcible manner read
his essay. It was replete with sound and practical suggestion in reference to the
holiday. The song by the choir, "Christ Our King_" was in good time and
appropriate. The recitation of little Nellie Steele, though in a low voice, showed
the little lady had been well instructed. The select reading by Miss Emma
Look, "Christmas, 1883," was excellently rendered in a clear voice, and with a
clear understanding of the subject chosen. The song of little Cassie Barnett,
"Earth is Fair," brought down the house. This was followed by a select read-
ing by S. L. Blumauer, "The Painter of Seville." The piece was rather long,
but was well read. The declamation of Airs. Kitty Bonebrake, "Kissing,"
brought down the house by its many laughable allusions. "Gone with a Hand-
somer Man" by W. O. Ames, Miss S. Blumauer and S. C. Davidson, in which
the former took the leading character, was a most laughable dialogue. The reci-
tation of Httle Cassie Barnett, "A Merry Christmas to All," showed the little
one had been thoroughly instructed. The musical talent of this girl should be
carefully fostered. It was then announced that Santa Claus would distribute
the i)resents. Some delay occurred before the appearance of this noted person-
age, which was probably caused by the heavy storm prevailing. As soon as
Santa Claus made his appearance, which was announced by the merry ringing
of sleigh bells, the fun began. As the presents were distributed many were the
"sounds of pleasant laughter and merriment heard over the hall. Altogether the
entertainment was a most pleasant affair and a perfect success. Long life to the
Literary Society.
C.R.XND B.\LI., NEW VE.VR's NIGHT, J.\NU.\RV IST, 1884.
Proceeds to go toward finishing the Schoolhouse Hall. Tickets, including
HISTORY OF YAKLMA VALLEY 671
supper, $2.50. Grand supper at Valley Hotel. The best of music has been
secured and the managers will spare no pains in making this the most enjoyable
dance of the season. Committee of Arrangements : S. L. Blumauer, Geo. H.
Smith, J. J. Souver, Jake Becker, Dr. 1. N. Power, T. J. Watson. Floor Man-
agers: J. T. McDowell, Tom Haley, J. J. Souver, C. B. Reed. Don't forget
that this is a benefit ball and the proceeds are to go to build up our public school.
Sleighs will transfer all to and from supper free of charge.
Crockery sold cheap at Watson Bros.
MISCELLANEOUS
"SAM"
Washing and Ironing
EUensburgh, Kittitas County, W. T.
Best Laundry for everybody. Family clothes washed. The best China
starch and ironing. Sam Yo Ching, Proprietor.
VALLEY HOTEL.
Corner Main and Third Streets. EUensburgh, W. T.
Smith Bros. & Co., Proprietors.
The Leading Business and Family Hotel of EUensburgh. Stages arrive at
6 P. M, and depart at 6 A. M.
Fire-proof safe for the accommodation of its patrons.
Smith Bros. & Co.
We may note several events of marked importance in 1883-84. In the
former year the EUensburgh Hook and Ladder Company was organized, the
town was designated as the seat of the newly created county of Kittitas. On
August 29, 1883, came the first of several fires which have wrought great loss
upon the city. The prevailing dry climate and liability to wind, with the usual
construction of wooden buildings, have made Ellensburg somewhat peculiarly
subject to these visitations. In this fire the chief sufiferer with Thomas John-
son, whose loss was $45,000, only partly insured. Consideraing that the town
was relatively so small at that time, that amount of loss denotes a large stock
of goods. Mr. Johnson seems to have been the most considerable of all the
early merchants.
An interesting item in business history is found in the fact that the first
bank in Ellensburg and the Kittitas Valley was organized in 1884. It was
known as the National Bank of EUensburgh. A. W. Engel was in charge of this
bank. He had been cashier of the first bank in old Yakima City, a bank which
was moved to North Yakima in 1885.
The Bank of EUensburgh was located on the north sifle of Third Street,
between Main and Pearl street, in a two-story wooden building. The first
floor of that historic building was occupied by the bank and the office of Dr.
Isaac N. Power. The second story was occupied as a hall, known as Elliott's
672 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Hall, usually eniployeci for dancing. It afterwards became the first superior
court room for the court presided over by Judge George Turner.
In 1884 the Northern Pacific Railroad was in progress of construction
through the lower Yakima. There was of course great interest in Ellensburgh
as to whether or not the railroad would pass through the town and make its
principal depot for the valley there. General C. B. Lamborn, land manager for
the comiKiny, with engineers Bogue and Huson, visited the Kittitas Valley in
1884 in order to determine the question of depot sites. It became evident to
the railway ofiticials that no other site had the advantages of Ellensburgh and
they therefore decided against the frequent railway policy of building a new-
city.
The chief owners of the city lots, Messrs. Shoudy, Schnebly and Smith
Brothers, made \ery liberal grants of land for depot grounds, and the whole
question was amicably arranged two years in advance of the arrival of the rail-
road.
In 1884 Rev. James A. Laurie, the Presbyterian mini.^ter, with associates
of his church, undertook the establishment of an academy. About $800 was
subscribed by the Presbyterian board and $500 by citizens interested in the
project. The educational features of the academy, like those of other schools,
will appear in the chapter on schools. We are concerned with it here as mark-
ing a stage in the progress of building the town.
CITY CHARTER
During this period the progress of the town was so gratifying that its
builders felt that the time had arrived for incorporation. In response to the
representations of the delegation from the county to the legislature, that body
passed an act providing a city charter.
With the feeling that many readers of this chapter will be glad to read this.
we include at this point the major parts of this organic law of the city.
AN .\CT To I.VCOKl'DRATE THE CITY OF EI.LEN.SBURGH .\ND TO DEFINE THE POWERS
AND BOUNDARIES THEREOF.
Be it enacted by the Legislative Assembly of the Territory of Washington;
Chapter I.
Section 1. That the inhabitants of the town of Ellensburgh. Kittitas
County, Washington Territory, within the metes and bounds hereinafter pre-
scribed, shall be and they are hereby constituted a body politic and corporate
in fact and in law, by the name and style of the "City of Ellensburgh" and by
that name and style they and their successors shall be known in law, have per-
petual succession, sue and be sued, plead and be impleaded, defend and be
defended in all courts of law and equity, and in all suits and actions whatso-
ever, -may purchase and acquire, receive and hold property real, personal and
mixed for the use of the city, may lease, sell and dispose of the same for the
benefit of the city, and they shall have and use a common seal and m.iy alter and
amend the same at pleasure.
Ill i'i'li
1 «^ »>i
WASHIXGTOX NATIONAL BANK, ELLENSBT'RG
ill
i)>«?ilil
2 1
FARMEk'S HANK, ELLENSIU' KG
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 673
SiiC. 2. The corporate limits of said city of Ellensburgh shall be as fol-
lows: Commencing at the northwest corner of section two (2), township
seventeen (17) north, range eighteen (18) east of the Willamette meridian;
running thence due north one-fourth of a mile to the northwest corner of the
southwest quarter (^) of the southwest quarter ('4) oi section thirty -five
(35), township eighteen (18) north, range eighteen (18) east; thence running
due south one mile to the southeast corner of the northwest quarter (^4) of
the southwest quarter (}i), section one (1), township seventeen (17) north,
range eighteen (18) east: thence due west one mile to the southwest corner of
the northeast quarter {%) of the southwest quarter (^) of section two (2),
township seventeen (17) north, range eighteen (18) east; thence due north
one-fourth of a mile, to the northwest corner of the northeast quarter of the
southwest quarter (y^) of said section two; thence due west-one-fourth of a
mile to the southwest corner of the northwest quarter (J4) of said section two
(2) ; thence due north one-half mile to the place of beginning.
Chapter II.
Section 1. The city of Ellensburgh shall have power to assess, levy and
collect taxes for general and municipal purposes not to exceed three mills per
annum upon all property, both for territorial and county purposes ; Provided,
however, That the indebtedness of the city must never exceed in the aggregate
the sum of two thousand dollars ($2,000) and any debt or liability incurred in
excess of said sum of two thousand dollars shall be invalid and void.
Sec. 2. The city of Ellensburgh shall have power to make regulations for
the prevention of accidents by fire, to organize and establish a fire department,
and make and ordain rules for the government of the same, to provide fire
engines and other apparatus, and to establish fire limits.
Sec. 3. The city of Ellensburgh shall have power to purchase or condemn
and enter upon and take any lands within or purchase any lands without its ter-
ritorial limits for public squares, streets, parks, cemeteries, hospitals, grounds,
or to be used for work-houses or houses of correction, or any other proper and
legitimate municipal purpose, and to inclose, ornament and improve the same, and
to erect necessary public buildings thereon. The city shall have entire control
of such buildings, and all lands purchased or condemned under the provisions
of this section, and of all streets, alleys, highways, squares and other public
grounds within its limits, established or appropriated to public use by authority
of law, or which have been or may hereafter be dedicated to public use by any
persons or person, and has power, in case such lands are deemed unsuitable or
insufficient for the purposes intended, to dispose of and convey the same; and
conveyances of such property, executed in the manner that may be prescribed
by ordinance, shall vest in the purchaser all the right, title and interest of the city
therein.
Sec. 4. The city of Ellensburgh shall have power to provide for the light-
ing of streets with gas or other lights within such districts or limits as may be
prescribed by ordinance.
Sec. 5. The city of Ellensburgh shall have power to provide for cleaning,
opening, grading, graveling, guttering, improving and repairing streets, high-
(43)"
674 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
ways and alleys, and for the prevention and removal of all obstructions there-
from, and from any side or crosswalk, also to regulate cellarways, cellar lights,
and sidewalks within the city, and to provide for cleaning the streets, for con-
structing sewers and cleaning and repairing the same, and shall have power to
assess, levy and collect each year a road poll tax of not less than four nor more
than six dollars on every male inhabitant of the city between the ages of twenty-
one and fifty years, except active or exempt firemen and persons that are a public
charge, and there shall not be levied or collected by the county of Kittitas or the
officers thereof any road tax or road poll tax upon the property or inhabitants
within the city of Ellensburgh.
Sec. 6. The city of Ellensburgh shall have power to cause any lot of land
within the city limits, on which water at any time becomes stagnant, to be
drained or filled up and to cause any vault upon any lot or block within the city
to be cleaned, when necessary, and in case of failure or refusal of the owner
of any such property to comply with the requirements of any ordinance or
resolution that may be prescribed, the work necessary may be done at the expense
of the city, and the amount so expended shall be recovered against the owner
of said property by an action at law as for debt.
Sec. 7. The city of Ellensburgh shall have power to provide for the survey
of the blocks and streets of the city, and for making and establishing the bound-
ary lines of such blocks and streets and of establishing the grades of all streets,
within the city limits, and to lay ofif. widen, straighten, name, change, extend,
vacate and establish streets, highways, alleys and all public grounds, and to
provide for the condemnation of such real estate as may be necessary' for such
purposes, and to levy and collect assessments upon all property benefited by
any change or improvements authorized by this section.
Sec. 8. The city of Ellensburgh shall have power to prevent injury or
annoyance from anything dangerous, offensive or unhealthy and to cause any
nuisance to be abated, to repress and restrain disorderly houses, houses of ill-
fame, dance houses or gambling houses and to authorize the destruction of all
instruments or devices used for purposes of gaming: to regulate the transporta-
tion, storage and sale ' of gunpowder, giant powder, dynamite, nitro-glycerine
or other, explosives or combustibles and to provide or license magazines for the
same, and to prevent by all possible and proper means danger or risk of injury
or damages by fire arising from carelessness, negligence or otherwise ; to pre-
vent and punish fast or immoderate riding or driving of horses or other animals
through the streets : to prevent and restrain any riots, noise, disturbance or dis-
orderly assemblages ; and to protect the property of the corporation and its
inhabitants and to preserve peace and order therein : to prohibit the carrv'ing
of deadly weapons in a concealed manner; to regulate and prohibit the use of
guns, pistols and fire arms, fire crackers, bombs and detonating works of all
descriptions : to restrain and punish intoxication, fighting and quarreling on
the streets ; to control and regulate slaughter houses, wash houses and public
laundries and to provide for their exclusion from the city limits, or from any
part thereof; to regulate the driving of stock through the streets; the building
and repairing of sewers, and the erection of gas lights, and to control and limit
traffic on the streets, avenues and public places, to regulate the use of the street.s^
HISTORY OF YAKIAIA VALLEY 675
and sidewalks for signs, sign posts, telegraph posts, awning posts and other
purposes : to prohibit tiie exhibition of deformed or crippled persons, and to
prohibit professional begging upon the streets or in public places ; to regulate
the numbering of houses and lots on the streets and avenues and to provide for
the cleaning and sprinkling of the streets and avenues, and to prohibit persons
from roaming the streets at unreasonable hours.
Sec. 9. The city of Ellensburgh shall have power to suppress and prohibit
the keeping of places, houses or rooms where either males or females, adults
or minors are permitted to indulge in the habit of smoking opium, and provide,
by ordinance for the summary closing of such places, houses or rooms.
Sec. 10. The city of Ellensburgh shall have the power to make regulations,
to prevent the introduction of contagious diseases into the city, and to remove
persons affected with such diseases therefrom, to suitable hospitals provided by
the city for that purpose ; to provide for the support, restraint and employment
of vagrants and paupers; to restrain and punish disturbances or any unlawful
or indecent practices, and to define what shall constitute the same.
Sec. 11. The city of Ellensburgh shall have power to make regulations to
prevent animals from running at large within the city limits, and to license, tax,
regulate and restrain the keeping of dogs within the city limits, and to authorize
the distraining, impounding and sale of the same for the penalty incurred and
costs of proceedings or to authorize their destruction.
Sec. 12. The city of Ellensburgh shall have power to regulate, license and
tax all carts, drays, trucks, wagons, carriages, coaches, omnibuses and every
description of vehicles which may be kept for hire or for the transportation of
persons or property for hire, and to prescribe and fix the rates thereof. To
license, tax and regulate or prohibit theatricals, shows and other exhibitions, and
l)ublic amusements, and to license tax and regulate auctioneers, hawkers, peddlers,
bankers, brokers and pawnbrokers ; to license, tax, regulate or prohibit drinking
saloons, bar rooms, beer shops, breweries and all other houses or places where
intoxicating or other beverages are sold or disposed of, also to license and regu-
late all billiard tables, pigeon hole and Jenny Lind tables kept for hire within
the city, and any person or persons who shall keep any billiard table, Jenny Lind,
pigeon hole or other gaming table or tables in a drinking saloon, or house, or in
a room, or building adjoining, or attached thereto and shall allow the same to
be used by two or more persons to determine, by play thereon, which of the
persons so playing shall pay for the drinks, cigars or other articles for sale ni
such saloons or drinking house, shall, within the meaning of this act be deemed
to keep the same for hire : Provided, however, That no license shall be required
of apothecaries or druggists for the sale of wines, spirits or malt liquors for
medical purposes, when sold upon the authority of written prescriptions of
practicing phy.sicians. No law, or part thereof, authorizing any tribunal or
officer of Kittitas County to grant licenses for any such house, place or business
enumerated in this section shall apply to be held to authorize the granting of
such licen.ses within said city by said county or its officers, and all such licenses
paid to the city shall he in lieu of the licenses required and specified by the gen-
eral laws of the Territory for similar houses or places of business, and the sum
rcr|uired for such licenses shall not be less than the amount required bv the
676 HISTORY OF YAKl.MA \'ALLEY
general laws of the Territory for houses or business of like character, and shall
be paid to said city : bonds required to be given by keepers of saloons or drink-
ing houses shall be upon the same terms and for like amount as required by said
general laws, and shall be made payable to said city ; to license, tax and regulate
wash-houses and slaughter houses, and to prescribe and designate places for
carrying on the same : to license and tax hotels, restaurants, chop and lodging
houses, livery stables, dry goods stores, grocery stores, butcher shops, boot and
shoe stores, dentists, photographers, doctors, lawyers practicing in the city
courts, tobacco stores fruit stores, variety stores, drug stores, furniture stores,
blacksmith shops, carpenter shops, contractors and builders, jeweler shops,
express companies, hardware stores, printing offices, oyster houses, barber shops,
bath houses, wood and coal dealers, lumber dealers, news dealer, milliners' stores
and all business houses and wholesale and retail establishments of every kind
and description, and to fix the rates of such licenses in all cases except as herein
provided: Provided, however, That no tax shall be imposed or license required
for the sale in said city of any of the products of the county when sold by the
producer, or of mechanics who expose for sale only the goods, wares or mer-
chandise manufactured within the city limits.
Sec. 13. All funds derived from liquor or other licenses, granted under
the provisions of this act, together with fines shall' be paid into the city treasury,
for the use of the city of Ellensburgh : Provided, That two-thirds of the amount
derived from liquor license shall be paid into the Kittitas county treasury by said
city of Ellensburgh, to be placed to the credit of the general school fund.
Sec. 14. The city of Ellensburgh shall have power to establish chain gangs
and to maintain a day and night police, and to provide for the election or ap-
pointmen of such number of public officers as may be necessary, who shall have
full power and authority to make arrests with or without warrants, and within
or without the limits of the city, and such police officers shall also have authority
to summon aid and exercise all powers necessary and requisite for the preven-
tion of crimes and for the apprehension of ofTenders, and in all cases where
arrests are made for ofTenses against the general laws of the Territory such
police officers shall be entitled to receive the same fees as are allowed to sheriffs
and constables for similar senices.
Sec. 15. The city of Ellensburgh shall have power to provide cemeteries
and to regulate the burial of the dead, and to prevent any interments within the
limits of the city, and to cause any body interred within the city limits to be
taken up and buried without the limits of the city, and shall have power to estab-
lish cemeteries or burial grounds without the city limits and to have the authority
and jurisdiction over the same necessary to the safety, preservation, regulation
and ornamenting the same.
Sec. 16. The city of Ellenslnirgh shall have power to establish and regulate
markets; to provide for the measuring or weighing of hay. coal, wood or other
articles of sale.
Sec. 17. The city of Ellensburgh shall have power to adojit jiroper ordi-
nances for the government of the city, and to carry into effect the power given
by this act, and to provide for the punishment of a violation of an\- ordinance
of the city by a fine, not exceeding three hundred dollars and costs, or bv
imprisonment not exceeding thirty (,TO) davs. or bv both such fine and imprison-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 677
ment, and in case of default of the payment of such fine and costs, the defendant
shall be imprisoned not to exceed one day for every three dollars of such fine
and costs, and such fine and costs may also be collected by execution against
the property of the defendant, and when so collected shall be credited on the
judgment, and any person, while imprisoned as aforesaid, may be compelled
to work during the time he is so imprisoned upon the streets or other public
grounds or works of said city ; and the city may also cause the animals found
running at large within the city limits, to be impounded, forfeited and sold.
Sec. 18. The city of EUensburgh shall have power to establish and regu-
late the fees, duties and compensation of its officers except when otherwise
provided, and have such other powers and privileges, not here specifically
enumerated, as are incident to municipal corporations of like character and
degree not inconsistent with the laws of the United States or of this Territory,
and as may be necessary for carrying into efifect the provisions of this act accord-
ing to the true intent and meaning thereof: Provided, that the mayor and
councilmen shall not receive any compensation for their official services.
Sec. 19. The city of EUensburgh shall have power to construct and repair
sidewalks and curb, pave, grade, bridge and gutter any street or streets, high-
way or highways, alley or alleys within the city or any part thereof, and to levy
and collect a special tax or assessment on the lots and parcels of land fronting
on such street or streets, highway or highways, alley or alleys, or any part thereof
sufficient to pay the expense of construction of said sidewalks and graveling,
grading, paving or bridging said streets and alleys, and for that purpose may
establish assessment districts, consisting of the whole or any portion of such
street or streets, highway or highways, alley or alleys, as may be deemed advis-
able : but unless the owners of more than one-half the property subject to assess-
ment for such improvements petition the council to make the same, such improve-
ments shall not be made until all the members of the council present, by vote,
authorize the making of the same.
Sec. 20. The city of Ellen.sburgh may be divided into two or more wards
by the city council, and the council may create new wards and increase the num-
ber of councilmen not to exceed eight, also change the boundary lines of wards
so as to equalize the population: Provided, however, That no wards be created
or boundary lines changed within ninety days prior to an}- election.
-Sec. 21. The city of EUensburgh shall have power to erect and maintain
waterworks, or to authorize the construction of the same for the purpose of
furnishing the city with a sufficient supply of water, but no such works shall
be erected by the cit\- until two-thirds of the (|ualified \-oters of the city at a
general or special election shall, by vote, assent thereto.
Sec. 22. The city of Ellen.sburgh shall have power to construct nr authorize
the construction of such water works as may be necessary for the city and for
the purpose of maintaining and protecting the same from injury and the water
from pollution, may pass the necessary ordinances therefor.
Sec. 23. The city of EUensburgh, together with the territory now com-
prised in school district No. three (3) of Kittitas County, Washington Territory
shall constitute a .school district and there shall be elected annually, as otlier
city officers, five school directors and one district school clerk, who shall hold
their offices for one year and until their successors are elected and qualified
678 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
and the general school law applicable to school districts in incorporated towns,
except as herein provided, shall apply to school districts.
Chapter III.
GOVERNMENT.
Section 1. The power and authority given to the city of EUensburgh by
this act, shall be vested in a mayor and common council together with such other
officers as are in this act mentioned, or may be created under its authority.
Sec. 2. The common council shall consist of five members. They shall he
elected for one year and shall hold their office until their successors are elected
and qualified.
Sec. 3. The mayor shall be elected by the city at large for one year, and
shall hold his office until his successor is elected and qualified. He shall be a
resident and qualified elector of the city, and a property holder within the city.
Sec. 4. The common council shall be elected at large by the city, unless
wards are created as provided in this act, when there shall be two members
elected from each ward. They shall be qualified electors and residents of the
ward from which they are elected and property holders within the city.
Sec. 5. There shall be elected by the city at large, a city marshal, who shall
hold his office for the term of one year and until his successor is elected and
qualified. He shall be a resident and qualified elector of the city.
Sec. 6. The justices of the peace for the precinct including the city, who
shall have been duly elected and qualified as required by law, shall have juris-
diction over all oft'enses defined by any ordinance of the city, and all actions
brought to enforce any penalty imposed by any such ordinances, and full power
and authority to hear and determine all causes, civil and criminal, arising under
such ordinances. All civil and criminal proceedings, before such justices of the
peace, under and by authority of this act, shall be governed and regulated by
the general laws of the Territory relating to justices of the peace and to their
practice and jurisdiction, and shall be subject to review in the district court by
certiorari or appeal, the same as other cases.
Sec. 7. There shall be elected, as hereinafter provitled. a city clerk, city
treasurer, a city attorney, city assessor and street commissioners and city sur-
veyor, who shall be officers of the municipal corporation.
Sec. 8. The city treasurer, city attorney, city assessor, street commissioner
and city surveyor shall be elected by the common council by ballot, and shall
hold their respective offices for the term of one year, or until their successors are
elected and qualified Provided, however. That they shall be liable to be removed
by the common council at any time by a two-third vote, for malfeasance or
misfeasance, inattention, incompetency or any other good cause. Nothing in
this act contained shall be construed as prohibiting the election of one and the
same person to two or more of the offices mentioned herein where the duties of
such are not incompatible.
Six. 9. No person shall be eligible to any office in the corporation who,
at the time of his election or appointment, is not entitled to the privilege of an
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 679
elector according to the laws of this Territory, and who has not resided in the
city for six months next preceding his election or appointment.
Chapter IX.
Sec. 22. For the purpose of carrying out the provisions of this act, and
for organizing and creating a city government for the city of Ellensburgh there
is hereby established an election board, of which F. Schnebly shall be inspector
and J. A. Shoudy and David Murray shall be judges and upon notice of the
passage and approval of this act, said inspector and judges, or either, shall call
and hold an election in and for the city for the purpose of electing the officers
in and for said city, giving ten days' notice thereof, by posting five notices in the
most public places in the city. It shall be the duty of said judges to make their
returns to the county auditor of Kittitas County, Washington Territory, and
he shall canvass the votes and forthwith issue certificates of election according
to law. Said officers so elected shall qualify within five days after election or
the vacancies caused by said failure to so qualify shall be filled by appointment
by the qualified councilmen. Should any judge or inspector of said election fail
to attend or act at the proper time, the voters then present may elect another in
his place. [End of Charter.]
The "Standard" of January 3, 1885, contains a sketch of the town, which,
while in some degree duplicating some of the facts already given, has so much
of real value and interest that we deem it worthy of incorporation, as showing
how Ellensburgh appeared to one familiar by direct acquaintance with all its
development to that time.
ELLENSBURGH.
PRE-RAILRO.\D FACTS.
Ellensburgh, Kittitas County, Washington Territory, of today presents
through the course of its past growth and present attainments, a vivid illustra-
tion of the genuine merit and vast possibilities of the region in which it is the
trade center and seat of county government.
Until 1871 the mercantile undertakings of the county were limited to a store
in the east end of the valley, kept by J. S. Olmstead, whose name, with others,
was inadvertently left from a previous sketch of early settlers.
In August of that year Hon. John A. Shoudy and William Dennis bought
out the ranch location of Jack Splawn, and began business in a log cabin where
the store of Shoudy & Stewart now stands. Packing their stock of wares across
the mountains, and walking alongside of the pack animals, Shoudy and Dennis
began and nurtured their little business, keeping pace with progress of the valley
until, having passed through the various log cabin degrees, embracing the first
store and hotel in the present town, and all the vicissitudes attending the building
up of a trade where at one time a single side of bacon offered for sale by an
immigrant could not be purchased, because a "side" was already on hand, until
the present mercantile position of Shoudy & Stewart has been attained. The
firm now has an annual trade in excess of $50,000. Mr. Shoudy (Mr. Dennis
having retired in 1876) finds himself the proprietor of a flourishing townsite.
680 HISTORY OF YAKBIA VALLEY
and surrounded by and in competition with the following briefly described pro-
gressive conditions and trade factors to the origin and growth of which, by
extending general judicious encouragement, his firm has largely contributed.
In May, 1870, Messrs. Blumauer & Block, now Blumauer & Son, engaged
in general merchandising in the Sharp dwelling, upon the ground now occupied
by Dr. Laurendeau. In response to increased demands of trade the firm subse-
quently built and removed to their present location, upon which, and the one-
half lot adjoining, they will erect a commodious business house next season.
By careful, .satisfactory dealing the firm of Blumauer & Son have built up a fine
trade, second to none in the town and the senior member has evinced his abid-
ing faith in the outcome of both town and county by the purchase and improve-
ment of the fine residence occupied by himself and family on Society Hill.
In 1881, Hon. Thos. Johnson removed from Goldendale to Ellensburgh, and
opened a general merchandise stock in Odd Fellows Hall. Subsequently he
built and removed to the large building destroyed by fire, corner of Fourth and
Pearl, August 29, 1883. Those best acquainted with Mr. Johnson's business
qualifications considered his coming to Ellen.sburgh proof positive that trade
merit of no mean degree was possessed by the town and county, which belief
has been in no wise diminished by his subsequent investment in residence prop-
erty, with Masonic Hal! overhead as also in the Dalles and Ellensburgh stage
line, Johnson and Tjossem saw milling and Pole Pick and Shafer gold mining
enterprises. After the fire, Mr. Johnson removed to his present location, in
the Leonhard building, corner Third and Pearl streets, associating with him
Messrs. Dickson and Baker, under the firm name of Thomas Johnson & Co. A
glance at the Fall and Winter stock laid in by this firm is a reliable index to the
fact, that "alongside, or ahead of competitors", is a motto the gentlemen fully
intend to sustain.
In the handsome three story structure, at the corner of Third and Pearl
streets, is located the general merchandise business of lion. Walter A. Bull.
This gentleman, one of the first settlers of Kittitas County, is the owner of one
of the finest, most extensive meadow ranches in the Northwest, upon which
large numbers of beef cattle are fed : is intimately associated to greater or lesr--
degree with others in the latter industry, as also in mining and other pioneer
enterprises of the county, and is also lessee and proprietor of the \'alley Hotel.
Hence to make any estimate of his trade volume other than immense is impos-
sible. Mr. Bull is also the owner of town residence property.
In September, 1881, Dr. P. Laurendeau opened a drug store in the Odd
Fellows' Building graduating therefrom six months later into his present loca-
tion, east side of Main, between Third and Fourth streets. Adding a few staple
groceries to his stock the gentleman received such encouragement that fancy
g.roceries, shelf goods, etc., were speedily made a leading feature of his thriving
business. Doctor Laurendeau has certainly not fared illy in nor formed a poor
opinion of either town or county, since he has become the owne-r of his present
business location and a fine valley farm as well.
At the pioneer postofifice drug store we find Qiarles B. Reed, assisted by
C. S. Randolph, a graduate of the Illinois State Pharmaceutical College. In
addition to a full stock of drugs and medicines, the P. O. drug store carries
PEAEL STREKT FROM HEIGHTS, ELLEXSBUEG
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 681
candies, nuts, fruits, assorted books, stationery, toys, cigars and medicinal
liquors. Mr. Reed came to Kittitas A'alley in 1869 and in addition to a town
residence is the owner of an admirable West Side .farm upon which, besides
tons of timothy, grain, assorted vegetables and increasing quantities of fruits,
the berries from which'Reed's celebrated raspberry wine is made, are grown.
In the handsomely fitted store erected and owned by J. Mueller on Third,
between Main and Pearl streets is the newly stocked drug house of Watson
Bros. Connected with the business of Smith Bros. & Co. from its beginning.
the senior Mat Watson, was enabled to foresee the approaching trade possibil-
ities of town and county, and upon arrival of his brother, Jesse, an accomplished
pharmacist, embarked in their present business. Carrying a complete new stock
of drugs, toilet, notion and holiday goods and always busy, the young men have
evidently now a glimpse of success, in the vicinity of which they propose to
reside, as evidenced by their recent purchase of the Burrell farm.
In April, 1881, E. F. Church, saddler and harness maker, arrived in Ellens-
burgh. Erecting a small building where Watson Bros, now are, Mr. Church
after a few months removed the same to Fourth Street, and enlarged into what
is now the Red Front. In response to steadily increasing trade the Pioneer
Saddler made several additions, and finally last Spring removed to more com-
modious quarters at the corner of Fourth and Main streets. That the people
are pleased with Mr. Church is evidenced by his success and that he has con-
fidence in the outcome is plainly shown by the purchase of additional town prop-
erty, upon which in 1883 was erected his private dwelling.
In the ( )d(l Fellow's Building, from which have graduated so many of bur
successful business men, is the present location o^ Mr. J. L. Coleman, formerly
of Fresno, California. This gentleman more recently came from a country
where "business makes business", has not been weighted down with the natural
caution early advent into comparatively untried fields usually endows one with
and in consequence carries a larger and more diversified stock of saddlerj' and
harness wares than ordinarily is found on an agricultural frontier. L^nex-
jiectedly large sales of fine harness goods, fancy Russian chimes and Swiss
attuned sleigh bells, give evidence that Mr. Coleman's foresight was good, and
that by preparation for an increased Spring and Summer trade his "after" sight
will prove equally correct.
At the northeast corner of Fourth and Main is the still more recent saddlery
and harness undertaking of W. J. Peed. Mr. Peed had the benefit of several
months employment in Mr. Coleman's establishment from which to make his
estimate of Kittitas trade requirements, and his proposition to "make, sell and
repair goods in his line at hard times prices" is ample evidence that he had the
good judgment to conclude that the trade would rapidly assume proportions
warranting further division.
Just west of the grove at the corner of Fourth and Main is the pioneer
wood working establishment of Pressey & Sprague. From the little 16x24
shop, erected by Mr. Pressey in 1879, to the present two-story building wth
lumber sheds attached, and from the original set of hand working tools to the
present large planer, lathes, etc.. for all sorts of planing, turning, sash, door and
furniture making by aid of ample wdter -power the working capacity of Pressev
682 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
& Sprague's plant has been increased just a little in advance of annual require-
ments, until now tliey are fully prepared for the trade harvest almost ripe for
the sickle in Kittitas County.
Webb & Baggs, November 20, 1882, began the erection of a small cabinet
shop on main street in the rear of the business house now occupied by W. L.
Webb. That prosperity has attended the efforts of the partner who here
remained is witnessed bv additional enlargement and improvement of both the
building and wood-working machinery equipment. Mr. W'ebb in addition to
his business location is the owner of neat town residence property, and in 1884
added stoves, hardware, sash, doors and undertaking to his previous complete
line of office and household furniture requirements.
In 1883 the irrepressible Odd Fellows' store room — which by the way, when
the writer first saw it, was occupied by the stockade grocery of Bell & Bryant,
and was surrounded by what its name implied as a refuge of defense in event
of Indian attack— opened its lucky portals to the bidding of Mr. Thomas Howe,
the furniture dealer, who still continues in a handsome new building on the east
side of the public square his original undertaking — to handle, set up. make and
sell exclusively household furniture, woven wire mattresses and general cabinet
ware that can always l)e warranted according to price for complete worth, artistic
finish, or both.
Rehmke Bros., jewelers and confectioners, in 1883 pitched their tents in
Ellensburgh, occupying rented premises and wondering if they had not arrived
too far in advance of the N. P. R. R. A glance at their complete stock of
watches, clocks, jewelery and assorted optical goods, neatly displayed, will
speedily show that the boys- came not a day too soon to win a solid foothold
in the graces of our people in advance of the arrival of the N. P. R. R., with
its magic trade developing wand. Rehmke Bros, now occupy their own prem-
ises on Fourth Street, between Main and Pearl.
In 1883, Mrs. M. A. Schnebly, a long time resident and enter])rising mil-
linery dealer of Walla Walla, engaged in millinery, dressmaking and later in the
sale of the White sewing machine in this town. Mrs. Schnebly, in addition to
every qualification of a lady, always well sustains her reputation for keen busi-
ness sagacity and never in greater degree than by purchase of the premises
occupied for business and residence purposes on Main Street, near the corner
of Third.
The special agricultural, mill and farm equipment dealer of the town is
Mr. J. J. Imbrie, who during the past two seasons has sold large amounts par-
ticularly of his J. I. Case, Osborn and Studebaker specialties. Coming first into
the field as an exclusive dealer in these things Mr. Imbrie had a surprisingly
large trade, which will sink into insignificance by comparison with results of
succeeding seasons, when railroad shipping facilities will immeasurably increase
acreage and demand.
The pioneer City Hotel at the northeast corner of the public square is pre-
sided over and owned by Mrs. Shazer, one of the earliest residents of the valley.
Less pretentious than its competitor, the City has yet a firm homelike hold upon
many old patrons that time cannot efface.
The \'alley Hotel, corner Third and Main, is a forty-room house, superior
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 683
10 any upon the northwest coast in a town not yet accessible by steam com-
munication. Waher A. Bull lessee and Harry M. Bryant manager. The Valley
Restaurant attached to this house, is of like size and appointments and under the
proprietorship of Frank Forrest and wife. The bill of fare, etc., graces well the
house.
The Durr Restaurant is on Main Street, between Second and Third. To
the thousands who have dined at Durr's bridge, or the Durr station, while
staging or otherwise traveling by wagon road, no guarantee of merit could bet-
ter set forth the solid excellence of every appointment that is presided over by
Mrs. Jacob Durr.
At the two present business extremes of Main street are located creditable
features of our local growth in shape of respective livery, feed and sale stables
of George W. Elliott and Jacob Durr. Accommodating each upward of thirty
horses in good shape, exclusive of shed and corral room, well eciuipped with
-saddle and' driving stock, buggies, hacks, dog carts, cutters, sleighs, etc., it is
hard to draw a distinguishing comparison between the two except that Mr.
Elliott's barn is the newer and having been built under his own supervision is
more modern, and perhaps more complete in its appointments. Both gentlemen
are enterprising pioneers in the matter of Kittitas County development, though
hitherto in diflferent sections. The one, Mr. Durr, having built bridges, wagon
roads, etc., in response to demands of travel, while Mr. Elliott, as in the location
of his present venture, has constructed prominent buildings a little in advance
of the march of trade in different quarters of town.
On Third Street, next door to the county headquarters, are Smithson &
Meagher. These gentlemen have been in business here for several years and
certainly deserve credit for steering their bark clear of the breakers upon which
particularly frontier meat markets are usually foundered. In addition to sub-
stantial encouragement toward the starting and development of Swauk mining
enterprises these gentlemen own business and residence property in the town.
To notice in even the previous briefly detailed style the entire business,
professional and general appointments of Ellensburgh and vicinity not being
within the possibilities of space in this little exclusively home made newspaper,
we condense in consequence the remaining statement with an accurate estimate
of the number of persons named who are property owners in the town or county.
In mechanical contracting lines we have Gardner Bros., Shotwell & Cameron,
H. H. Swasey and Jacob Becker as blacksmiths; Shuler Bros., wheelwrights: J.
Sands, repairing machinist : Starr the Tinner ; Drew, the painter ; Elliott, Dawes
and ^larvin the respective boot and shoe makers. In fine arts. Wood and
Deitzel the respective barbers. In the professional list, Drs. Henton, Catto,
Amen and Dr. Cutting, the dentist. Attorneys, Austin Mires, J. H. Xaylor,
Daniel Gaby, Davidson & Davidson and Thorp & Barry ; civil engineer and sur-
veyor, J. Roy Wallace: builders, Martin Sautter, D. W. Dillon, Robert Fleming.
Nicholas Rollinger. Breweries, The Ellensburgh, Theo. Hess: the Kittitas, J.
Blomqvist : the City, Chang & Becker. Saloons, The Corner, J. T. McDonald :
the North Pacific, J. Lyons : the Palace, C. W. Thompson : the Board of Trade,
Keyes & Jackson. Beer halls, the Germania, Wm. Von Hollen : the Kittitas, J^.
lUomqvist. Church edifices, Pre.sbyterian, J. .\. Laurie, pastor: Methodist, Ira
684 HISTORY OF YAKLMA VALLEY
Wakefield, pastor: Catholic, Father Parodi, pastor. Educational institutions,
,111 academy and graded public school. Newspapers, Localizer and Standard.
Secret societies. Odd Fellows, .Masons, A. O. V. \V., G. A. K., and L O. G. T.
Literary societies, two. Private libraries open to the public, one.
Thirtx -three persons, including acadeni\ , churches and two societies con-
nected with the condensation which is, through lack of space, abruptly termin-
ated, are property owners in Ellensburgh or immediate vicinity, thus testifying
clearly their approval of its location and confidence in its future growth to more
than ordinary inland greatness. In the surrounding valley, 20 x 25 miles in
extent, is a large and rapidly increasing agricultural population, merely await-
ing the shrill whistle of the locomotive to spring into activity, the like of which
in productive and consequent commercial and manufacturing greatness, has but
illy been conceived by the most imaginary mind in the vicinity. Standing upon
Capitol Hill in the immediate suburbs of Ellensburgh, every portion of the
natural grandeur of the fertile valley, as also its bordering forest or grass clad
mountains, is clearly seen in about equal proportions as to distance encircling
the point of observation. Exactly midway between the two terminal points of
the Cascade division of the \. P. R. R. and already with option of the railroad
town at disposal of town site proprietors, Ellensburgh with no mishappen set-
back through individual avaricious greed should certainly justify, upon com-
jiletion of the Cascade division in 1885, her pre-railroad attainments, in which
the matter of deceptive "boom" has had neither part nor parcel, by securing, not
onl\- the middle division advantages, but the capital crown as well of the com-
ing state of Washington. [End of excerpt.]
Population increased rapidly from 1885 to 1889. While in the Autumn
of the former year there were not over 600 there were at least 2,500 in the
later year, and by the census of 1890 there were 2,768. Each of the years 1887
and 1888, and indeed 1889 till the great fire, had a remarkable record of con-
struction. In 1887, as it appears from the report of Austin Mires, first mayor,
seventy-three dwellings, a two-story bank building, the great three-story flour-
ing mill of Shoudy and Tjossem, the roundhouse and machine shops of the
railroad company, and a number of lesser business structures, went up.
In the same year the brick courthouse, still occupied, was erected, at a
cost of $15,000. The next year of 1888, however, saw far more extensive im-
I)rovements. Real estate was fairly jumping in that year. Transfers in town
])roperty exceeded half a million dollars.
Over two hundred dwellings were built. Nine brick business blocks and
one of stone added to both the business facilities and the beauty of the town.
Among the most prominent buildings of the year these may be enumerated :
the Opera House. $25,000: the Lynch Block. $20.ai0 : the Odd Fellows Build-
ing. $12,000; the Ben E. Snipes stone bank building, $20,000: Cadwell's Hotel,
$25,000; Ellensburgh National Bank building. $8,000. There were a number
of others of less cost. It is probable that the expenditures for the year for
buildings, private and business, came close to half a million dollars.
A considerable change had taken place from 1883 to 1889 in the personnel
of the business and professional community. This is well indicated by the re-
production of part of a page of advertisements and locals from the "Localizer"
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 685
of April 6, 1889, from which the reader can note the new names in comparison
with the names already given in the advertising pages of the "Standard" of
July 14, 1883.
Of special interest at the close of these excerpts from the "Localizer" is
the apportionment of school funds to the districts.
.April 6, 1889. Items copied from "Kittitas Localizer."
The Kittitas Localizer.
Published every Saturday
-by-
D. J. Schnebly.
Office — Corner of Main and Fourth Sts.
Legal advertising. $1.08 per square for the first insertion, and 50 cents each
subsequent insertion.
Transient advertisements same as legal.
Local notices inserted at the rate of lO cents a line. No local notice given
short of 50 cents.
James Parson Post No. 11, G. A. R., meets every Saturday night at 7
p. m. Room on Main Street, over Perry's drug store.
Ellensburgh Lodge No. 39, F. & A. M., meets first and third Saturdays of
each month. — J. P. Sharp, W. M. ; H. M. Baldwin, Sec'y.
Stated convocations of Ellensburgh Chapter No. 11, R. A. M., held at
Masonic Hall, second Saturday evening of each month. — M. Gilliam, Sec'y ;
S. C. Davidson, H. P.
Stated conclaves of Temple Commandery No. 5, Knights Templar, on the
second and fourth Thursdays of each month. Sojourning Sir Knights cor-
dially invited. — E. T. Wilson, E. C. ; M. A. Cole, Recorder.
CHURCH DIRECTORY
Presbyterian — Preaching every Sabbath at the Academy chapel at 11 a. m.
and 8 p. m. Sabbath school at 10 a. m. Prayer meeting Wednesday evenings
at 8. — Rev. Jas. A. Laurie, pastor.
M. E. Church — Services every Sabbath morning at 11 and evening at 8
o'clock. Sabbath school at 12:30 p. m. Prayer meeting eVery Thursday even-
ing.— Rev. J. W. Maxwell, pastor.
Church of Christ — Preaching every Sunday night at 7 o'clock — J. E.
Denton, pastor.
Baptist Church — Preaching in the Presbyterian chapel Sunday at 3 p. m.
Sunday school at 4 p. m. — A. M. Allyn, pastor.
Congregational Church — Services in old Masonic Hall on Fourth Street.
Sunday 11 a. m. and 7 p. m. Sunday school 12:20 p. m. ; Y. P. S. C. E. 6:15
686 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \'ALLEY
p. m. Prayer meeting Thursday eve at 7 :30 at the Christian Church. The
luililic invited. — Alfred P. Powelson, pastor.
PROFESSIONAL
A. SHOUE
Physician.
Office
N. HENTON, Physician and Surgeon.
Office — On Pearl Street. All calls will be promptly attended to.
Notary Public. U. S. Commissioner.
S. C. Davidson
ATTORNEY-AT-LAW
(Jffice first building west of Johnson House.
Ellensburgh. Washington Ter.
J. H. Naylor, Attorney-at-Law.
Office^One door north of Ellensburgh Keg House.
Main St., Ellensburgh, Washington Ter.
48 Im
J. B. Reavis. A. Mires. C. B. Graves.
REAVIS, MIRES & GRAVES,
Attorneys-at-Law.
Will attend to all U. S. Land Office business. Office at Ellensburgh and at
North Yakima. 47 — tf
W. G. Porter, Attorney-at-Law and Notary Public.
Prompt attention given to collections. Office in Odd Fellows Block.
Ellensburgh. W. T.
Jno. B. Davidson, H. E. Houghton,
Ellensburgh. Frank H. Graves,
Spokane Falls.
HOUGHTO'N, GRAVES & DAVIDSON,
Attorneys-at-Law and Notaries Public.
Ellensburgh, Washington Ter.
Special attention given to collections and Real Estate matters.
S. O. Morford. F. H. Rudkin.
MORFORD & RUDKIN,
Attorneys-at-Law.
Will practice in all the courts and attend to business in the U. S. Land
office. Office— Upstairs in Geddis Block, Ellensburgh, W. T. 430
Corner of Fourth and Pearl Streets.
.'Ml operations pertaining to dentistry skilfully executed. Prices within reach
of the poor. 2.^26
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
DR. A. M. AlUSSER,
Dentist.
Daniel Gaby. F. W. Ewing.
GABY & EWING
Attorneys and Councillors-at-Law.
Office one door west of Ben E. Snipes & Co.'s Bank.
Ellensburgh, W. T.
L. A. VINCENT
Attorney-at-Law and Notary Public.
Real Estate and Insurance Agent.
Office in Odd Fellows Building, Corner of Third and Pearl Streets.
Ellensburgh, Washington Ter.
DR. WILLIAMS
Dentist
Is located in Room N|o. 13, Geddis Block.
Teeth extracted without pain. People who wish artificial teeth can come in the
morning, get a new set made the same day. Gold filling a specialty.
DR. T. J. NEWLAND
Local Surgeon N. P. R. R., who guarantees to give satisfaction to those who
patronize him.
Surgical Cases
Are especially solicited as long experience insures successful treatment.
Office— Main street, Ellensburgh, W. T. 47-tf
GEORGE BETHUNE
Assayer and Chemist.
Tacoma, W. T.
Assays Gold and Silver $1.50
Assays Gold, Silver, Copper and Lead 3.50
Assays Iron 2.50
Also assays of coal, fire clays, limestone, tin and nickle ores, etc. Send
samples by mail. Prompt attention.
GREAT ATTRACTION
—at the—
NEW DRY STORE
— in the —
LYNCH BLOCK
Corner Fifth and Pearl Streets
New Goods. New Prices.
No More Mining Camp Prices for Ellensburgh.
We are showing goods at Eastern Prices. Come and see for yourselves. Our
stock is the most complete in the city. We are receiving new goods by
express daily. We carry everything in the DRY GOODS line.
688 HISTORY OF VAKLMA VALLEY
Silks, Dress Goods, Velvets, Plushes, Linens, Muslins, White Goods,
Mannels, Pjlankets. 'Comfortables, House Linen, Batting. Rihljons.
Laces, Corsets, Gloves, Hosiery, Underwear.
Gents' Furnishing Goods
Of All Descriptions. Goods Marked in Plain Figures. Only One Price.
Samples Sent to all Parts Free on application.
O'CONNOR & HOGAN
Ellensburgh, W. T.
C. D. OSBURN, M. D.
Physician and Surgeon
Ofifice over Capital Drug Store.
Ellensburgh, Washington.
EDNA BAXTER, ^L D.
Physician and Surgeon.
Ofi'ers her professional services to the ladies of Ellensburgh and vicinity.
Room 2, Geddis Block, opposite the Johnson House.
Ellensburgh, Washington.
LOCALIZER OFFICE
All Kinds of Job Printing.
Office on Third Street near Main. Do Commercial Printing and General Job
Work at Portland prices (freight added). All kinds of blanks printed to order.
Remember that the Localizer has the best equipped office in central Washington.
WANTS, FOR RENT, S.\LE, ETC.
MRS. C. E. CLARK
Dress and Cloak Maker, Machine Stitching, Ladies' Underwear, Gents'
Shirts Made to Order. Davidson Block, opposite Johnson House. 21
MASONIC.
Wm. S. C. Davidson has been appointed local agent of the Masons' Fraternal
Accident Association of America, located at Westfield, Mass.
HORSES FOR SALE.
Two fine, stylisli work horses, warranted to draw : also a new wagon and
harness for sale. The whole can be purchased for $300, spot cash. They
will weigh about 1,300 pounds each. Incjuire at this office. 34
AFTER GREAT EFFORT
Kleinberg Brothers have secured the agency for the well-known James Means
$3 and $4 shoes. This shoe is known all over the United States to be the best
for the money. Just the thing for winter wear and none should be without.
They are comfortable, warm and easv. 27
ANTLERS HOTEL, ELLEXSBURG
WOOLEN MILLS. ELLKXSlil
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 689
ELLENSBURGH KEG HOUSE
The Ellensburgh Keg House, corner of Main and Fourth Streets, is run by
O. B. Castle, who continues to sell at wholesale and retail the choicest liquors
and imported cigars. This well established house allows its patrons to go and
help themselves from the casks the liquors are imported in, and every one gets
the worth of the money they say. Patronage solicited. 12tf
BACK AGAIN.
C. McVicar, watchmaker and jeweler, would respectfully announce to the
citizens of Ellensburgh that he has opened a shop in the California Fruit Store,
on Pearl Street, opposite the Kittitas Meat Market, where he will be on hand to
do all kinds of job work in his line of business. He will be pleased to see all
'his old customers and as many new ones as have work in his line. Prices at
hard-times rates — lower than the lowest. C. McVicar.
SPECIAL NOTICE.
Having withdrawn from the firm of Walters & Co., of this city, I have
established an office of my own and will hereafter be alone in my real estate
business. I would say to those seeking property for improvement or invest-
ment, I solicit a share of their business. My entire attention will be given to
real estate, and I trust my long residence here justifies me in saying that I have
a fair knowledge of local values. Patrons may depend upon promptness and
fair dealing. I shall make a specialty of front foot business lots, yet will handle
all safe property. Geo. W. Elliott.
28
DESERT LANDS— NOTICE OF INTENTION TO MAKE PROOF.
U. S. Land Office at North Yakima, W. T., Feb. 19, 1889.
I, Ira Canaday, of Wenatchee, W. T., who made desert land application
No. 125 on the 15th day of March, 1886, for the S K' SE %, Sec. 27, and N ]/.
NE y^, Sec. 34, Tp. 22 N, r 21 E, containing 160 acres, hereby give notice of my
intention to make final proof to establish my claim to the land above described
before W. H. Peterson, Clerk District Court, Kittitas Countv, W. T., at Ellens-
burgh, on .'\pril 25th. 1889, and that I expect to prove that said land has been
properly irrigated and reclaimed in the manner required by law, by two of the
following witnesses : George Voice and Reuben Steadman, of Wenatchee, W.
T. : Robert N. Canaday, of Ellensliurgh, W. T. : and E. W. Lockwood, of Con-
connuUy, W. T.
3241 T. H. Thom.\s. Register.
NOTICE FOR PUBLICATION.
U. S. Land Office at North Yakima, W. T.. March 23, 1889.
Notice is hereby given that the following named settler has filed notice of
his intention to make final proof in support of his claim, and that said proof
will be made before the judge, and in his absence before the clerk of the district
court of Kittitas County, W. T., at Ellensburgh, on May 21, 1889, viz.:
John Maher
(44)
690 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY ,
Who made Homestead Application No. 840, for the SW ji, Sec. 22, Tp. 20 N,
R 16 E. 1
He names the following witnesses to prove his continuous residence upon
and cultivation of said land, viz. :
Oscar James of Roslyn, W. T. ; George S. Priest, William Mack and
Joseph B. Stevens, of Teanaway, W. T.
Any person who desires to protest against the allowrance of such proof, or
who knows of any substantial reason, under the law and regulations of the In-
terior Department, why such proof should not be allowed will be given an op-
portunity at the above-mentioned time and place to cross examine the wit-
nesses of said claimant, and to offer evidence in rebuttal of that submitted by
claimant. Ira M. Kruiz, Register.
QU.^RTERLV APPORTIONMENT OF SCHOOL MONEY MADE APRIL 4, 1889.
No.
1. Canaday $ 343.40
2. Bond 227.25
3. Ellensburgh 2,075.55
4. Cooke 383.80
5. Whitson 222.20
6. Kittitas J 212.10
7. Sparta 222.20
8. Reeser .-!*k 257.55
9. Bates 217.15
10. Thorp 151.50
11. Kolockem 111.10
12. Polyhutz 186.85
13. Wallace 252.50
14. Peterson 217.15
15. Swauk 292.90
16. Cove 186.85
17. Teanaway 171.70
18. Pleasant 'Hill 252.50
19. Wenatchee 191.90
20. Naneum 257.55
21. West Side 136.35
22. Preston 75.75
23. Lake Valley 75.75
24. Roslyn ___! 1,646.30
25. Cle-elum 398.95
26. Columbia River 176.75
27. Mission Creek 156.55
28. Easton 90.90
29. Alorrison ' 80.80
J. L. ATcDowELL,
County Supt. Common Schools.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 691
^^■ith the Oldening of the year 1889 there was just a little shade of busi-
ness anxiety. The orgy of speculation in which Los Angeles, San Diego,
Seattle, Tacoma and Spokane, had been reeling, was bound to end in a tumble,
unless it could be slowed up and cooled ofif before its feet hit something. The
smaller places did not feel the breath of impending depression so soon as did
the larger ones, especially those of southern California. Ellensburg entered
the year 1889 with as bright hopes as ever, but there was beginning to be a
little less exuberance on the part of the outside buyers. But while the invest-
ing public were beginning to tread a little more cautiously, suddenly there
swejit down upon three Washington cities the most destructive calamities that
they had ever known. These were the great fires of 1889 in Seattle, Spokane,
and Ell^isburg. While of course each city would have suffered the financial
reverses of the great depression from 1889 to 1897, the fire in each of those
cities made it the harder to meet the other losses.
It was on the night of July 4th that this great calamity befell Ellensburg.
The fire began in a store belonging to J. S. Anthony, between Fourth and
Fifth streets, on Main. A furious wind was blowing and there was no adequate
supply of water or other fire-fighting facilities. The "big fire" was a disaster
of the utmost magnitude and in conjunction with other events made the date
of 1889 a central point of reference in the history of the city. The remem-
brances of old-timers are largely hinged upon such and such a time before and
after the "big fire."
From the history of central Washington and the "Ellensburgh Capital"
we derive a full statement of the losses incurred. This summary of the build-
ings and the losses is a valuable historical record, for the reason of its preser-
vation of the names of the business men of the time and it gives moreover a
view of the extent of the different lines of business enterprises at that time.
FIRE OF JULY 4, 1889.
At 10:30 P. M. July 4th, the dread tones of the fire bell called the attention
of all to the fact that J. S. Anthony's grocery store on the east side of Main
Street, between Fourth and Fifth was on fire. Forthwith the people began the
imequal battle, but as a furious gale was blowing at the time and water was
.scarce, the fight was hopeless from the start. The store melted like wax ; the
adjoining buildings, all frame structures and as dry as tinder, soon caught and
shared a similar fate. Nothing withstood the progress of the flames toward
the north, until they reached Nash's brick building, which efifectually stayed their
progress in that direction. The buildings to the southward and eastward of
the starting place did not escape, however. By the time the fire had reached
the brick and stone buildings, it was hot enough to consume these like so much
straw. On the south side of Main it soon swept over Armstrong's and Imbrie's
offices to O. B. Castle's keg house ; thence across Fourth to the "Localizer"
office, carrying everything along Main on either side of the street with the
exception of Blumauer & Sons, store, Spencer's lodging house, Gass & Ramsey's
and the saddlery store. Main street was swept to First, but the gale being from
the northwest, the fire spread more rapidly to the southeast. All the saloons
on the north side of Fourtli above the keg house crumbled before it like egg
shells, as did Gross's and Davidson's offices, Louis Herman's store, the old John-
692 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
son house and the Ashler. Here the fire was terrific, the roar of the flames being
as deafening as a stomi at sea. The Geddis Block, Snipes & Company's Bank
and the Davidson Bku-k all melted away before the fury of the devouring ele-
ment, and the only hope of the buildings south and east was gone. They soon
became enveloped in a sea of fire.
"By superhuman eflfort", says a paper of the time, "the Lynch Block, the
Ellensburgh National Bank, the old City Hotel and all that portion of the city
between Pearl and Fifth and the Presbyterian Academy was saved from destruc-
tion. The greatest effort was made to save the City Hotel, directly opposite
the Masonic Temple, on Fourth and Pine. The water supply, meager enough
at first, was now almost exhausted, but men got on top of the building with
hose and a constant stream was kept flowing over the roof and down the sides
until the Temple fire had ceased and danger from that direction no longer threat-
ened. This effort saved the north side of Fourth Street, the Baptist Church,
the public school building and at least fifty other buildings."
While it is hardly possible to compile a complete list of the buildings
destroyed, such a list would certainly include the following:
The Ashler brick block, old Johnson house, Geddis Block, Odd Fellows'
Hall, Masonic Hall, Snipes & Company's Bank, Willis & Bryant's store. Oak
Hall restaurant, Becker & Cox's meat market, Kittitas meat market, Ames drug
store, Bull Block, Ifstiger house, Shuler's blacksmith shop, Meagher's house,
former residence and office of Dr. Henton, Leonhard & Ross's real estate office,
City Bakery, the old Post-Office, the Oriental, Kreidel's store, Adler's barber
shop. Stevenson's gun store, Davidson's Block, Davidson & McFall's Block,
Davis & Adams' meat market, Anthony's store, Elliott's residence, Imbrie's real
estate office, Armstrong's oflfice, the keg house, "Localizer" oflftce, Ramos &
Meagher's office, Caro's clothing house. Round's barber shop, De Bord's barber
shop, grocery store. Capital Restaurant, Lyon's saloon. New Corner, Old Cor-
ner. Shoudy's Block, Chinatown, Capital drug store, Perry's drug store, La-
pointe's real estate office, John Geiger's tailor shop. Wood's barber shop, Wyn-
mann's confectionery, Rehmke's jewelery store, Bushnell's photograph gallery.
Feed's harness shop, Peterson's saloon, Cascade saloon. Gross's insurance and
real estate office, Davidson's law office, Louis Herman's clothing store, David-
son & McFall's law offices. Board of Trade rooms, Walter & Company, Dr.
Richardson. Dr. Newland's, Dr. Gray's, Hare & Wallace's, Dr. Musser's, Dyer's
agricultural warehouse. Fish Block, new Post Office, Johnson's stables. Tacoma
lodging house, four .small dwellings belonging to W. W. Fish. Isabella Block,
Fogarty's store, Bennett's store and warehouse. D. G, C. Baker's two resi-
dences, Oldham's blacksmith shop, the Beebe residence, Lloyd Mercantile Com-
pany Block, Mrs. Schnebly's residence, Holbrook boarding house, four Chinese
wash houses. Chafee's residence, Thompson's residence, Crawford's cigar fac-
tory, Harmon's dry goods store, Kleinberg's clothing store, Travers Brothers'
hardware establishment, Pearson's place, the old Senate, the Tivoli, Delmonico
Restaurant, Dexter stables, California stables, three houses of Walters & Com-
pany, one -stable of Walters & Company, the county superintendent of schools
office with all records and papers.
It has been estimated that the two luindred houses and ten brick blocks with
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 693
their contents and all the other property destroyed by the fire were of an aggre-
gate value of not less than two million dollars. Of course the distressed city
was the recipient of much sympathy and substantial assistance in the form of
money, provisions, etc., from other towns of the territory, so that actual want
of the necessities of life did not exist.
Every- disaster has its hero. The hero of the Ellensburgh fire was D. A.
Holbrook, who at the imminent risk of his life climbed to the third story of the
Ashler Block, while it was a mass of flames, for the purpose of rescuing a
stranger supposed to be sick in one of the rooms. Holbrook escaped by descend-
ing a burning electric light pole, though not without serious injury to arms and
face. But the Ellensburgh fire developed more than one hero. Indeed one
would almost conclude that the town possessed a citizenship of heroes from
the fortitude and courage with which all received the blow and set about recuj^er-
ating from it. July 6th, the people held a rousing street meeting, at which sev-
eral enthusiastic speeches were made, strongly urging the rebuilding of the city
at once. By the 10th, carpenters, bricklayers, graders and laborers were busy in
llie burnt district clearing away the debris and laying the foundation for new
blocks. Within ten days after the fire, work either on the plans or the actual
construction of forty-three business blocks, averaging in cost $12,000 each, was
under way, and the resurrection of Ellensburgh had fairly begun. [ tuul of
excerpt.]
Ellensburg has surely been a sufl:'erer from the "fire-fiend". Before the
"great fire" there had been a distressing fire in 1885, in which the old \'alley
Hotel, a center of all sorts of activities, business and social, had been destroyed
and a man had been burned ta cinders in it. Following the great misfortune
of 1889 came several fires, less in amount, but such as to make in the aggregate
severe additions to the larger affliction. On Febniary 24, 1890, the school
building was burned, entailing a loss of $4,000, of which $2,500 was covered
by insurance. April 24th of the same year witnessed the destruction by fire
of the railroad round-house and machine shops. The company at once replaced
the round-house.
On February 13, 1900, the splendid mill of Tjossem and Son, the best grist
mill in the valley, went up in smoke, entailing a loss of $12,000 or more beyond
insurance. A fire that threatened to be serious broke out in the furniture store of
Tripp & Jackson on July 10, 1901. While the contents of the store were badly
damaged the conflagration was checked without getting beyond control.
As already stated, the year 1889, aside from being the date of the fire,
was a point of reference in other important events. It was the year of state-
hood. It was the time of strenuous attempt, destined to disappointment, to
locate the state capital at Ellen.sburg. .An addition had been laid out called
the "State Capital Addition," near the present location of the Milwaukee Depot.
But perhaps more important than any of those events as a point of refer-
ence was the fact that 1889 represented the crest of the wave of business
activity (genuine construction) and of over-speculation (largely frolhv) whicii
Ellensburg shared with most parts of the state and of the whole Pacific Coast.
The recession of the wave of speculative excitement coincided most unfor-
tunately with the fire, to jilunge ihc metropolis of Kittitas Countv into a dark
694 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
cloud of financial embarrassment. The business men prior to 1889 had mani-
fested great enterprise and ability in reaching out in all directions in the en-
deavor to bring adjacent productive regions into business relations with Ellens-
burg. One enterprise of great interest, now almost forgotten, was described
for us by Judge J. B. Davidson.
This was the organization of the territory up and across the Columbia
River, so as to divert the trade of that vast region from Spokane and Walla
Walla to Ellensburg.
This movement looking to the trade of the Okanogan and Big Rend regions
was in active progress in 1888 and 1889. Thomas L. Nixon was the most active
promoter of this mo\enient. Me was not hiniiself an Ellensburg man, but the
business men of the city backed the undertakings initiated by him. A steamer,
the "City of Ellensburgh," was placed on the run from Port Eaton on the Co-
lumbia, near the present Beverly, to Chelan and ( )kanogan points. Work of
blasting rocks from the channel at Cabinet and Rock Island Rapids was under-
taken and considerable was actually accomplished. The plans contemplated the
construction of a railroad from Ellensburg to Port Eaton. Between S7.^,000
and $100,000 was actually pledged at Ellensburg to construct this railroad.
Nearly ten miles was graded out of Ellensburg. The leading men at Ellens-
burg in the enterprise were J. A. Shoudy. E. P. Cadwell, John McCandless,
Frank McCandless, A. N. Hamilton, H. C. Walters, and John B. Davidson.
That was one of the finest enterprises ever undertaken in Kittitas County and
it was deserving of large success. But like other ambitious and hopeful aims,
the times were not propitious, and the scheme could not be revived.
BUSINESS F.MLURES
Beginning with December, 1889, a series of business failures began to
shake the confidence of the business community. The large wholesale and
retail tore of Lloyd Brothers closed its doors on the 26th of the month. Other
failures followed in quick succession. But the people who had created the fine
little city and had done so much to develop the valley around it were not dis-
mayed to the extent of folding their hands and suspending enterprise. This
is well illustrated by the fact that the city entered at once upon a bond issue
for a new school building to replace that which had been burned. The electric
light plant was purchased by the city for $34,000, and bonds were issued to
the amount of $200,000 for water-works and a sewage system. Until 1897,
the financial clouds hung low. In that year there was a marked revi\al. With
each year following, business conditions improved. The developments in agri-
cultural, orchard, dair>^ and live stock industries, lumbering, mining of both
coal and gold — all combined to reestablish Ellensburg in the po^inon of sub-
stantial security which she now enjoys.
The growth has not been rapid, but has been sound. The attractive vision
which at one time danced before the eyes of the builders, of becoming the "irst
city of the Yakima Valley, the capital of the state, and a great distribution
center of all central Washington, gradually faded away, and the people have
become reconciled to the fact that the destiny of the city was rather to provide
a solid, attractive local point for one of the most beautiful and productive
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 695
rey;ions in the Xorthwcst. L'p to about 189.5 Ellensburg' led \'akinia in the
race for wealth and population. After that date it became clear that the
ijeography and distribution of areas and resources were such that the largest
city of the Yakima Valley must inevitably be in the central rather than the
upper part. The recent great growth of the city of Yakima is the logical con-
sequence of the natural centralizing of productive resources through the vast
irrigation enterprises of the Government. The enormous tracts of fertile land
brought into profitable use by the Tieton, the Ahtanum, the Wapato, the Sunny-
side, and other irrigating projects were bound to seek some common denomina-
tion of exchange. Yakima was the logical spot for that common center.
The question of great interest to the student of geographical locations and
commercial and municipal evolution is whether with the immense development
promised by the completion of the projects in the lower valley, between Prosser
and the Columbia River, with the sure increase of transportation facilities, both
rail and water, up and down and across the line of the Columbia River, the
metropolis of the great Yakima Valley may not ultimately be at Kennewick
or at the junction of the Yakima with the western "Father of Waters," the
Columbia.
Whatever the future of the state may bring it is obvious to the observer
that at this writing both Yakima and Ellensburg have an assured position as
beautiful and progressive cities, commensurate in all respects with the country
about them, in which the industry and intelligence of the builders have kept
pace with the bounty so lavishly bestowed by Nature.
THE WATER QUESTION
One of the most important questions for any municipality is that of a
proper water supply. Ellensburg went through the usual stages of that ex-
perience. The first city water works were privately owned. The supply came
from Wilson Creek in the open ditch to a reservoir on Craig's Hill. That
reservoir was one of the interesting objects of early days. B. E. Craig was
the first to undertake the establishment of this system. Subsequently Carl A.
Sander became chief owner of the system. He made considerable improvements
in 1887. In 1891 Mr. Sander sold the system to a New York company. As is
likely to be the case when any public utility of that sort is owned by outside
capital, the water service became unsatisfactory.
An editorial from the "Register" of April 22, 1893, right in the midst of
the tightest stage of the hard times, indicates the beginnings of an agitation
for a publicly owned water system. We include that editorial here.
"Register," April 22, 1893.
EDITORI.\L ON THE CITY WATER SUPPLY
For the first time in the history of Ellensburg, there are to be steps taken
to regulate and control the water supply. Heretofore the system has simply
been tolerated for the benefit of private use, but the public has received no
benefit or protection from it. In this respect honors are easy, for the public
has paid nothing for its use.
696 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Following the change in ownership of the water works comes a different
proposition which the city council is called upon to meet, which is that in the
event the water works are made proficient as a protection against fire, the
city shall pay for protection. An attempt has been made, and is still in progress,
by the new company to so improve the service that the requirements imposed
may be met. The necessary pressure upon the water mains is fixed by the com-
jiany in a proposed ordinance at sixty pounds to the inch east of Pine street
as the minimum. The company has offered to reduce the price of hydrants
Sli per year provided the city will waive any right to purchase the plant during
the existence of the franchise which is for twenty-five years, or in other words
bind the city to a contract for water at a certain price for a certain time willy
nilly. The proposition further eliminates privileges of the city which are of
minor importance though not altogether objectionable. It is further required
by the company that the city, when paying in warrants drawn upon a fund in
which there is no money, shall pay such additional sum as shall equal the
jirice in cash.
To all these propositions the council objects, and as it now stands there
are no propositions pending. The city council is alive to the exigencies -of the
case and proposes to carefully and prudently legislate upon this question in the
best interests of the city and with fairness and justice to the company.
The problem must be met and the city supplied with water for fire pur-
poses, or the business men of tlie city will more than pay the cost in the increase
of insurance rates. Whether or not the present system has been up to the
requirements of the franchise it has been the means of holding the rates of
insurance at one-half what they otherwise would be. This aft'ects about two-
thirds of the taxable property within the corporation. That the city water
must be paid for or shut oft' are the alternatives for consideration of the coun-
cil, and it is safe to say that an early choice will be made. [End of excerpt.]
The agitation for a municipal water system continued and in 1910 a vote
by the people accomplished the desired end. But a rather peculiar situation
resulted which continues to this day. For the Ellensburg Gas and Water
Company still supplies water to portions of the city. Hence the people of
Ellensburg are blessed, or otherwise, with two water systems. The source
of water for the municipal system is deep wells, deriving their supply from a
subterranean flow. These wells are equipped with three large centrifugal
pumps, which pump the water into a storage reservoir holding 1,469.000 gallons,
from which the water reaches the city mains. The source of the city water
insures an abundant supply of clear pure water unaffected by flood or drought.
The city also owns its electric light plant, an unusual fact in a small city.
All evidence indicates that this municipal enterprise is highlv satisfactorv. To
the "Father" of Ellen.sburg. John A. Shondy, is credited tJie first establishment
of an electric system.
In 1890 the city acquired the existing light system and made large im-
])rovements. The power is located on the Yakima River, about three miles
from the city. A canal three miles in length conveys water for generating
the power. The passage of the water through a pair of large turbine wheels
produces about 700 horse power.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 697
The power is used for running a large number of dynamos for manufac-
turing purposes as well as light. The cost to the city for installing the plant
was about $55,000, and it is stated that on that valuation it is a money making
investment.
CITY GOVERNMENT
We have given at an earlier point in this chapter the original city charter.
That charter went into effect in 1886. It has continued with no material
amendments to this date.
The first election of city officers took place on February 26. 1886. Two
of the most prominent of the old-timers of Ellensburg were apposing candi-
dates for the honor of the first mayoralty, one of whom, Mr. Shoudy, passed
away a number of years ago, the other of whom continues to the
present, still held in the same honor by his fellow citizens. These two first
candidates for mayor were Austin Mires and J. A. Shoudy. Mr. Mires re-
ceived 279 votes and Mr. Shoudy received 93. According to the provisions of
the charter the mayor, marshal and councilmen were to be chosen by popular
election, and the council was to appoint clerk, treasurer, surveyor, assessor,
and street commissioner. The results of that first election were these: mayor,
Austin Mires ; marshal, J. R. Wallace ; councilmen, Fred Leonhard, Mathias
Becker, Thomas Johnson, George Elliott, F. D. Schnebly.
On March 1, 1886, the newly chosen officials met and duly inaugurated
the first city government for Ellensburg. The appointees to the other offices
were as follows: S. L. Blumauer, clerk; Henry Rehmke, treasurer; J. R. W^al-
lace, surveyor; J. R. Wallace, assessor; L. Pool, street commissioner.
This was an occasion of so much interest that the inaugural address of
the mayor may well have a permanent record. We therefore are glad to incor-
porate here the address of Mayor Austin Mires.
mayor's message
Gentlemen of the Common Council : — The charater of our city makes it
the duty of the mayor to communicate to you at the first regular meeting in
each year a general statement of the condition of the afifairs of the city as
well as to recommend the adoption of such measures as he may deem expedient
and proper. In the performance of this duty I ask your indulgence for a few
moments.
The city government was organized on the second day of March, 1886,
something over ten months ago. Since that date there has been made one
general assessment at the rate of three mills per annum upon the taxable prop-
erty of the city, and the levy of a road poll tax at the rate of $4.00 on all male
inhabitants between the ages of twenty-one and fifty years.
There has been realized from all sources up to January first, 1887, the
following amounts :
General tax $ 601.98
Liquor licenses 3,000.00
Fines 812.28
Business licenses 1,196.10
Making a total of $5,610.36
698 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
The expenditures up to January 1, 1887, as reported to me by our treas-
urer and clerk are as follows :
Justice's court $ 329.02
Street improvements 1,007.16
This embraces amount paid by city for cross-\valks-$624.25
Lumber _— 1 111.96
Materials, such as nails, etc. 26.70
Amount paid street commissioner 184.50
Street lamps 39.75
Fixtures 362.10
Fire department 526.00
Police force 1,663.50
Drawing and publishing ordinances 187,62
Incidental 166.00
.'\mount paid Kittitas County out of liquor licenses 2,000.00
Treasurer's commission 108,21
Total $6,349.61
The street commissioner's report shows that ninety persons have worked
out their road poll ta.x, which, in money, would amount to $360.00, thus making
a total of $1,367.16 expended upon street improvements for the year.
There has been constructed during the year 5,800 feet of sidewalk, 1,792
feet of cross-walk, and 270 feet of alley crossings, making a total of 7,852 feet.
There had already been a highway constructed on the extension of Third
Street from Water Street to the railroad depot at the date of organization of
our city government. Lately Fifth Street has been opened and graded to the
line of the railroad, thus making two commodious highways from our city to
the depot, which seem to me to be ample for the present.
Before leaving this subject I desire to call your attention to the fact that
Hon. John A. Shoudy has filed a claim against the city in the sum of $927.50
for work done and material furnished in constructing the first mentioned high-
way from Water Street to the railroad depot on the line of the extension of
Third Street. There seems to me to be no doubt that Air. Shoudy should
receive a just recompense for the work mentioned. I have labored under the
belief, however, that our city charter does not contemplate the payment of such
claims from the general fund. Rut if you conclude that the city should make
such recompense to Mr. Shoudy, I think you will find ample provision for doing
so by the levy of a special tax for that purpose.
The peace and order of our city during the last ten months has fulfilled
the most sanguine expectations, and it is in striking contrast to the order that
prevailed for some, time immediately prior to our city organization. Taking into
consideration the fact that ours is a frontier city, and that our ten months'
existence as a city has covered over a period when the Northern Pacific Rail-
road has been in course of active construction through our valley, thus making
EUensburgh during all this time the actual terminal point, circumstances which
invariably draw to such locations a large transient population. I am constrained
to say to you the order of the place has been exceedingly good.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 699
This happy state of things has been due in great measure to the laws
ordained by the City Council in furtherance of peace and quiet, and to the
efficiency of our city police force. It will be your province, gentlemen, to pass
additional laws whenever it appears that good morals and good order will be
enhanced thereby.
I call your attention to the fact that although there has already been quite
an amount of money and labor expended upon our streets, yet they are suscep-
tible of great improvement. Main and Third Streets, especially, should be
graded and guttered at the very earliest moment.
It is a matter of congratulation that since our organization our city has not
been visited by a single fire and this in face of the fact that building and improve-
ments of various kinds have been continually going on. How much good fortune
in this direction we owe to the sensible and vigorous measures taken at the early
existence of the old council against the maintenance of stove pipes, cannot be
told. At present I believe there is not a stove pipe passing through roof or wall
within the business portion of our city. Notwithstanding our good fortune in
the past the rapid building up of our city with wooden buildings makes it im-
perative with you to provide against danger from fire in the future. It is high
time to consummate the organization of a well equipped fire department. The
city has already 1,200 feet of hose, which will be sufficient for the present, and
a hand engine has been ordered, which should have been here ere this. I urge
upon you the necessity of procuring a hose cart at once, and of providing a
building suitable for the storage of your fire apparatus. We cannot expect to
put in extensive water works at present, but we should make all possible prep-
arations against fire, and to that end I recommend the immediate sinking of
three or more good wells or cisterns available to the business portion of the
city to answer until more elaborate preparations can be made.
The city has already made some provision for lighting the streets. Some
eight lamps are in position, but more will be required. There should be at least
two lamps at appropriate points on Fourth Street, between Pine Street and the
Academy Building, and an equal number on Third Street, between Pine Street
and the new schoolhouse.
While we have never as yet been visited with an epidemic of any magni-
tude, the immediate future health and comfort of our city demands your earnest
attention. I urge upon you the necessity of providing a system of sewerage at
as early a date as the condition of affairs will permit.
Our charter gives the city power to levy and collect each year a road poll
tax of not less than $4 nor more than $6 on ever}' male inhabitant of the city,
between the ages of 21 and 50 years, except active or exempt firemen and [)er-
sons who are a public charge.
The city has provided in ordinance No. 4 for the levy and collection of this
tax but it seems to me the ordinance is either deficient or the proper officers
have failed to perform their duties under the same; for not only has there been
no money paid into this fund, but moreover only ninety persons are reported as
having worked out their tax in accordance with the provisions of the ordinance.
I call attention to this fact and recommend an amendment to the ordinance so
that the tax may be properly collected in money. I am of the opinion that the
700 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
amount of the assessment for any year, properly expended in money on contract,
would have more than double the effect in street improvements than it would
by allowing each one the privilege of working out his tax. The ordinance should
be amended so as to compel floating inhabitants to pay their taxes and in all
ways bear their just share of the expenses of government.
It seems to me that there exists some deficiency in our vagrant law : too
many persons are on our streets from day to day who follow no laudable calling
—too many who pursue no visible calling whatever. These classes add nothing
to the funds of the city, contribute nothing to its good order or good morals. I
therefore call your attention to our city ordinance defining and punishing vagrants.
If it is inadequate amend it: if the fault is in the lack of its vigorous enforce-
ment by our police officers, then take such steps as will cause a strict perform-
ance of duty in this regard, and if possible rid the city of this growing evil.
Gentlemen, these are all the communications or recommendations that I
have to submit to you at the present time. With the admonition that the future
welfare of our city depends upon the enactment and vigorous enforcement of
laws in the interest of good order, morality and substantial improvements, and
feeling confident that you will weigh well the capacity in which you have been
called to labor by your fellow citizens, and that you will study assiduously to
perform your duty as councilmen without fear of censure from the disaffected
or hope of any other reward than the approval of your own consciences, I re-
spectfully submit to you this message.
A. Mire?. Mayor.
MAYORS ,\ND CLERK-S 1886 TO 1918
The records of the succeeding councils and appointive officers do not seem
to be complete, but through the kindness of B. L. Titus, city clerk, we are able
to give at this jjoint an unbroken list of the mayors and clerks to the present date.
1886— Austin Mires 1003— J. H. Smithson
1887— Austin Mires l')04— M. E. Flynn
1888— O. P. Jackson 1905— A. M. \\'right
1889— W. R. Abrams 190r>— M. Bartholet
1890— John B. Davidson 1907— J. H. Morgan
1891— John A. Shoudy 1908— W. J. Peed
1892— H. M. Baldwin l'X39— W. }. Peed
1893— H. L. Stowell 1910— F. E. Craig
189-1— J. H. Smithson 1911— F. E. Craig
1895— j. W. Bean 1912— T. A. Mahan
1896— J. W. Bean 1913- j. A. Mahan
1897— P. p. Gray 1914— J. A. :\Tahan
1898— P. P. Gray 1915— Samuel Kreidel
1899— T. C. McCauley 1916— Samuel Kreidel
1900— J. C. McCauley 1917— Samuel Kreidel
1001— J. C. McCauley l')l 8— Samuel Kreidel
1902— J. H. Smithson
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 701
S. L. Blumauer George Sayles
S. L. Blumauer George Sayles
J. R. Wallace George Sayles
J p> \\'allace Louis H. Bloomfield
"t. R. \\'allace J- J- Poyser
T. R. Wallace J- J- Poyser to June 7th— resigned
Tnmes G. Boyle John A. Shoudy from June 7th
Tames G. Boyle John A. Shoudy
Tames G. Boyle John A. Shoudy to October 4th, resigned
Tames G. Boyle J- A. Crimp from October 4th
James G. Boyle J- A. Crimp
I'red W. Agatz Fred T. Hofmann
W. H. Greenhow Fred T. Hofmann
Tames G. Boyle '' '5' Reuben Crimp
Tames G. Boyle Reuben Crimp
George Sayles Reuben Crimp
George Sayles Reuben Crimp to AIa\- 6th
George Sayles B. L. Titus from ;\Iay 6th
The complete list of officers at present is as follows: Samuel Kreidel,
mayor: B. L. Titus, clerk; Mrs. Bessie Nesbit, treasurer: E. J. Lindberg, city
attornev : E. L. Butler, superintendent light and water department : A. F. Ed-
wards, city engineer.
On November 5. 1918, a preliminary caucus was held for city officers,
which under the conditions was equivalent to election. The report in the "Eve-
ning Record" of November 6th is therefore worthy of preservation here :
Despite the influenza quarantine, a caucus was held at the city hall yester-
day and placed a complete ticket in the field for the city election in December.
The ticket is headed by Mayor Kreidel, who has consented to again act as mayor
for another two year term. B. L. Titus is renominated for clerk and Mrs.
Bessie Nesbit renominated for treasurer. Harry W. Hale, who had previously
served as city attorney, became a candidate for that position. E. J. Lind-
berg refusing to again be a candidate. Mr. Hale died in February, 1919, and
F. .\. Kern succeeded him.
The first ward councilmanic candidates are to be C. H. Flummerfelt
for the four year term and C. W. Fulton for the two year term. Air. Flummer-
felt has served as councilman previously while Mr. Fulton was recently elected
temporary councilman bv the city council to replace Jesse Waters, who left
the city.
A. C. Busby, well known blacksmith, is to be the new councilman from
the second ward for the two year term in place of Walter Schmid, who resigned
because of the Mc.\doo order asking all railroad men to give up all political
offices.
In the third ward the candidates nominated are M. L. Bridgham and Peter
Garvev. both for four vear terms, .Mr. Garvey has been a member of the
702 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
council for years, being the senior of all city officers in term of service. Mr.
Hridgham, an undertaker and county coroner, was recently shot by an unknown
assassin and A. T. Gregor\- was appointed coroner.
John Killmore, who has served several terms as councilman, is the candi-
date for councilman at large for the two year term.
There were seven men present at the caucus with C. C. Churchill as chair-
man and H. B. Carroll as secretary of the meeting. The others present were
C. R. Hadley, E. J. Lindberg, R. Crimp, W. F. Webster and B. L. Titus.
CHAPTER IV
SCHOOLS, CHURCHES AND SOCIETIES OF ELLENSBURG
THE SCHOOLS — DISTRICTS — KITTITAS COUNTV TEACHERS SCHOOL BOARD — TEACHERS
IN PUBLIC SCHOOLS CLE ELUM SCHOOLS STATE NORMAL SCHOOL BOARD OF
TRUSTEES — STATE BOARD OF EDUCATION ADMINISTRATIVE STAFF FACULTY
FOR 1918-19 CHURCHES OF ELLENSBURG INTO THE HOSTILE CAMP FRA-
TERNAL AND MISCELLANEOUS SOCIETIES THE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE: CON-
STITUTION AND BY-LAWS OFFICERS AND TRUSTEES7— KITTITAS COUNTY IN THE
SPANISH-AMERICAN WAR — CIT\' LIBRARY OF ELLENSBURG
It is scarcely necessary or possible to enlarge upon the vital value of the
institutions which compose the heading of this chapter. If it be true that the
natural environment and the industries of farm, mine, mill, and orchard which
we have presented in the chapter on county history provide the tangible and
material necessities of life, and if it also be true that the business instrumen-
talities which appear in the history of the town be essential to the proper ex-
change and organizing of those commodities, it is no less true that the intel-
lectual and moral and social instrumentalities are essential to the proper use
of those material things. If production and business furnish the materials of
life, the school, the church, the social or fraternal organization, the club or the
music hall, teach people what to do with those materials. Without these
ameliorating and refining agencies, the products of industry would be simply
piles of matter, with no significance beyond mere "food."
THE SCHOOLS
It has been said so many times as to be a tedious truism, but it is none the
less true, that the public schools of the United States form the very cornerstone
of her life. And this is true not only, not even mainly, for the knowledge
acquired there, but for the lessons of essential democracy — Liberty, Equality,
Fraternity — imparted in the classroom and on the playground, the A. R. C.
of that great social entity which we call Americanism, the present hope of a
world wrecked and all but ruined by the reign of kings.
The public school is even more a political and social than an educational fact.
In the counties with which we are dealing in this history we find the usual
American pride and interest in the schools. While this interest is common all
over the American Union many observers think that the schools of the Pacific
Coast surpass even those of the older states in the outlay and attention given
to them. Some years ago the Russell Sage Foundation stated in its educa-
tional report that for "all-round efficiency the public school system of Washing-
ton surpassed that of any other state in the Union."
W'e expect to find and do find that for high standards of education the
schools of Yakima, Kittitas, and Benton counties are in the forefront in this
703
704 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
forefront state. In some measure this high standard has been produced by the
presence at Ellensburg of the State Normal School, an institution whose in-
fluence has extended beyond the bounds of the county in which it is located,
but which in the nature of things has been especially marked in the counties
which compose the Yakima Valley.
The public schools of the valley began in the year 1868 at Yakima City,
then the county seat and the only town between Walla Walla and Seattle. The
first record of school organization is of the same interest to the Kittitas reader
as to the Yakima reader. We find in the county superintendent's office at
Yakima the first book of records of the first superintendent, George W. Par-
rish. His first record is this : — "I was appointed school superintendent by the
county commissioners on the first Monday of February, 1868. I had no prede-
cessor, consequently no records or precedents in the county by which to act.
The settlements were few and far apart. It became my duty to divide the
county into school districts : which I did, making most of them large, contem-
plating their subdivision as the public welfare might require. The following
is a statement of the boundaries and numbers of the several districts of Yakima
County, Washington Territory, to-wit : — * * *"
In pursuance of this purpose Superintendent Parrish laid out seven dis-
tricts. Districts 6 and 7 as outlined here were never organized, and the perma-
nent Number 6 appears in subsequent reports with new boundaries as organ-
ized July 4, 1869.
The initial boundaries of I'ebruary, 1868, gi\en in the report are as follows:
DISTRICT NO. ONE
Application for its formation was made by Mr. F. M. Thorp. A notice
of its boundaries was sent to him on the 28th of June. 1868. It is bounded as
follows : Commencing on Yakima River, two miles south of the Third Standard
Parrellel, thence due east to Columbia River, thence up said river to the Fourth
Standard Parallel line, thence west along said line to Range 20 east, thence due
south to Township 13 north on said range, thence due west to Yakima River,
thence down said river to place of beginning.
By application notice was sent to IMr. Walter Lindsey on the 28th day of
June, 1868. It is bounded : Commencing on Ahlanum River at the crossing
of the line between Ranges 17 an4 18 east: thence north along said line to
Natches River; thence down said river to Yakima River: thence down said
river to Ahtanum River; thence up Ahtanum River to the place of beginning.
DISTRICT NO. THREE
Notice was sent too Mr. ojseph Bowzer on the 28th of June, 1868. It is
bounded so as to include all that part of the county between Natches and
Ahtanum rivers west of the line between Ranges 17 and 18.
L'llLK.' St'HOOL, ELLEX8BUKG
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 705
DISTRICT NO. FOUR
Notice for the creation of District No. Four was sent to G. S. Taylor on
June 28, 1868. It began at the mouth of the Natches and went to the summit
of the Cascade Mountains and along the range to the divide between Wenas
and Umptanum creeks.
DISTRICT NO. FIVE
Notice of the formation of District No. Five was given to E. French on
October 16, 1868, and included all the county north and east of Yakima River
south of District No. One.
Since Districts Nos. 6 and 7 were not organized, though laid out to include
all the rest of the county, we may regard the first five as including the "Charter
Districts" of the old Yakima County. Inspection of a map shows that No. 1
included the larger part of the present Kittitas County and quite a piece of
Benton. The only settlement in the whole vast area was that of the Moxee,
for the sake of which the district was laid out.
The second superintendent was C. P. Cooke, who later became one of the
first settlers on the Kittitas, known as one of the best educated men in the
new county, as he had been in the old. Mrs. Cooke still lives at the date of
this publication on the home place on Cooke Creek ten miles north of Ellens-
burgh. The number of pupils in the report of 1868 was as follows No. 1, 15;
No. 2, 31; No. 3, 24; No. 4, 23; No. 5, 23; total, 116. There was a total of
130 in the report of 1869. The amount of school tax for 1867 was zero ; for
1868, $275.64; for 1869, $407.76. In 1874, the tax had reached $1,408.46, and
in the next year it was $1,653.06.
County division came in 1883, and hence the statistics which we are giving
here belong properly to the old Yakima County.
The preceding part of the present chapter is a repetition of the earliest
part of the chapter dealing with the Yakima County school history. We have,
however, reached a stage where we may center our attention on the Kittitas
history, even some years in advance of county division. It may be noted that
for the sake of unity the public schools of Kittitas County, as well as of Ellens-
burg, are included in the succeeding pages.
According to the information derived from Mr. d'Ablaing, to whom we
have so many times made acknowledgments, Charles Splawn was the first
teacher in the county, or rather in the region which is now Kittitas County.
The school was near Mr. Splawn's place on the Taneum, the time was 1874,
the pupils were twelve in number, all Indians. In the same place, known as
District No. 10, the successive terms following the first had teachers as follows :
The second term was taught by Mrs. Yocum, the third by Louisa Yocum, after-
wards Mrs. Edward Cooke, the fourth by Mr. Charles Splawn again.
Mrs. William Taylor, now living in Ellensburg, was the first teacher in
the Denmark School in 1876. J. P. Marks was at that time superintendent of
the county.
The number of districts and schools increased rapidlv after 1875. In 1880
(45)
706 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
there were twenty-three in the old county, and in 1883, just prior to division,
the number was thirty-two.
The regular succession of superintendents appears in the records of county
officers in the second chapter of this part. We shall not endeavor to give
statistics of all the different years, but will regard a few typical years as
sufficiently illustrating the progress of the school system. A report by Super-
intendent J. H. Morgan for the year ending June 30, 1891, will indicate condi-
tions at a point about midway between the formation of the county and the
opening of the new century. According to that report the children of school
age included 1,231 boys and 1,188 girls, a total of 2,419. The school records
showed an attendance of 909 boys and 861 girls, rather a poor percentage of
attendance. There were at that date thirty-six districts and forty-four teachers.
The average monthly salar\' paid the male teachers was $57.90: the female,
$49.70. The total expense of maintaining the schools during the year covered
by the report was $69,924.52. Of that amount the salary expenditure amounted
to $14,595.31. The expense of purchasing new locations, erecting new build-
ings, and providing furniture and apparatus was $55,329.21. There were at
that date no high schools, though there were two graded schools, one at Ellens-
burg and one at Roslyn.
Passing on over another period of twelve years we find the report of Super-
intendent H. F. Blair to give the following figures : The school population
was 3,120, with an enrollment of 2,975. There were then thirty-seven districts
with seventy-two teachers. The estimated value of school property, including
grounds, buildings, furniture, books and apparatus, totalled $100,665.00. There
had been a marked increase in teachers' salaries,- the monthly wages for male
teachers being $71.13, and that for female teachers being $55.20. At that time
there were no four year high schools, but the Ellensburg schools had eleven
grades, the Roslyn schools had ten grades, and the Cle Elum schools had nine.
In the year following, 1904, Ellensburg inaugurated her high school.
In the year closing June 30, 1918, we find the report by Superintendent S.
A. Bartlett to embrace the following directory of teachers and general statistics:
District 1 — Amy Skone, Ellensburg.
District 2 — Ruth McClanahan, Ellensburg.
District 3 — Evelyn I. Platner, Ellensburg.
High — Mildred C. Struble, Ellensburg: Clara Burch, Ellensburg: Linden
McCullough, Ellensburg; J. C. StaufTer, Ellensburg; F. M. Lash, Ellensburg;
l\Iary A. Boedcher, Ellensburg; Olea M. Sands, Ellensburg: G. W. Callendar,
Ellensburg: F. B. Daily, Ellensburg; A. J. Dunnington. Ellensburg; J. H. Mor-
gan, Ellensburg; Elsie M. Cody, Ellensburg: Ethel Calhoun, Ellensburg; Cora
B. Weaver, Ellensburg; Lena Bozorth, Ellensburg: Elise Luff. Ellensburg;
Mabel Garvey, Ellensburg; Lilly Garvey, Ellensburg; Frances Charlton. Ellens-
burg; Juanita Dixon, Ellensburg; Helen Winslow, Ellensburg; Ora Davis,
Ellensburg; Olive Jenkins, Ellensburg; Ruth Jones, Ellensburg, Johnson Sher-
rick, Ellensburg.
District 4 — Gertrude Mosier, Ellensburg, R. 3.
District 5 — Katherine Burroughs, Ellensburg, R. 2.
District 6 — Florence Foster, Ellensburg, R. 2.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 707
District 7 — Charles A. Barker, Ellensburg, R. 1 ; Bessie Whittendale,
Ellensburg, R. I.
District 8 — ^Margaret Gallagher, Ellensburg, R. 4.
District 9— Pauline Rollinger, Cle Elum.
District 11— Helen Pebbles, Ellensburg, R. 1.
District 12 — C. M. Armstrong, Ellensburg, R. 2: Anna Pederson, Ellens-
burg, R. 2; Tollie Tooker, Ellensburg, R. 2, Badger Pocket; Alargaret Taylor,
Beverly : Carimme Whitlow, Yakima, Squaw Creek.
District 13 — Florence Foltz, Ellensburg, R. 4; Elizabeth Richards, Ellens-
burg. R. 4.
District 14 — Erie Gates, Ellensburg, R. 3 ; Grace Mclnnis, Kittitas, Whisky
Dick.
District 15 — Mrs. Leila Thomas. Cle Elum.
District 17 — Mrs. Daisy Fish, Cle Elum.
District 18— Lillian Nylen, Ellensburg, R. 3.
District 19 — Ellen Spaulding, Alalaga.
District 20— Madge Charlton, Ellensburg, R. 3.
District 21 — Elizabeth Dixon, Boylston.
District 22— W. T. Martin, South Cle Elum; Elma E. Mooney, South Cle
Elum ; Sara E. Baldwin, South Cle Elum.
District 23 — Winifred Sanders, Easton.
District 24, High School— Wilmot G. Whitfield. Roslyn : Willie Hogarty,
Roslyn : \'erne Hall, Roslyn : Lottie Trencholme, Roslyn : Beatrice Kittrell, Ros-
lyn : Ethel Shirls, Roslyn; Grace E. Uhl, Roslyn: E. C. Cavey, Roslyn: Millie M.
Pritchard, Roslyn : Martha Simpson, Roslyn : Elsie Randolph, Roslyn : Cornelia
Hooper, Roslyn : Hazel Gilkey, Roslyn : Elizabeth Manning, Roslyn : Emmlie
Mills. Roslyn : Evelyn Driese, Roslyn ; Florence L. Wharton, Roslyn : Ina DeCann,
Roslyn: I. A. Johnson, Roslyn: Lavonda Matthews, Roslyn; Esther S. Ferine,
Roslyn ; Edwina Rase, Roslyn ; Helena Jenkins, Roslyn ; Marie Grundy, Roslyn ;
Ina Back, Roslyn ; Bessie McCandless, Roslyn ; Elizabeth D. Schmidt, Roslyn ;
Corine Saindon, Roslyn ; Selma Holland, Roslyn.
District High 25— G. I. Wilson, Cle Elum: H. E. Studebaker, Cle Elum;
Alice T. Stach, Cle Elum: Dora E. Knapp, Cle Elum; Mabel McMillen, Cle
Elum : ^Myrtle Schmitkin, Cle Elum ; Blanche E. Kleeb, Cle Elum ; Katharine
^^ Hoag, Cle Elum ; Wm. C. Will, Cle Elum ; Theresa Moore, Cle Elum ; Carolyn
Coulee, Cle Elum ; Johannes C. Bergman, Cle Elum ; Hildore Carlson. Cle Elum ;
Maud Filmore. Cle Elum ; Edna M. Avery, Cle Elum ; Nell Davnie, Cle Elum ;
Hazel A. Wood, Cle Ehini : Eva liuckler, Cle Elum; Ida Mitchell, Cle Elum;
Rebecca Flynn, Cle Elum: Eva Buckler. Cle Elum; Ida Mitchell, Cle Elum;
^Fary Hutter, Cle Elum ; Kathryn Flynn, Cle Elum ; J. N. Spicer, Cle Elum ;
Effie A. Olson. Cle Elum ; Alonica Brain, Cle Elum ; Helen Sargent, Cle Elum.
District 26— May 'SL Maxwell, Cle Elum: Mrs. G. L. Barkley, Ellensburg.
District High 4S — G. C. Shrader, Thorp: Fern Burns, Thorp; Dorothy
W'ade, Thorp; Glenn Osborn, Thorp; Eva Wakelee, Thorp; Bessie Hicks, Thorp;
Ethel A. Anderson, Thorp; Rhea Hogue, Thorp: Mrs. Edna Betts Shrader,
Thorp.
708 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
District 28— Lynn Markey, Easton ; ]\Irs. H. J. Oliphant. Easton ; Cather-
ine M. Ryan, Easton; Mabel Anderson, Keechelus.
District 29 — Inez Webber, Thorp; Grace Anderson, Thorp.
District 30 — Alice Donahue, Thorp.
District 31 — Mrs. Elma S. Morgan, Ellensburg, R. 3.
District 32 — Henry S. Gibson, Cle Elum.
District 33 — Kate Stroud, Wymer.
District 3-1 — C. H. Barton, Ronald: Alice Pickering. Ronald: Ruby Mitchell,
Ronald: Bernice Whitaker, Ronald; Annie Laura Jones. Ronald: Birdie Esther
Mitchell, Ronald: Angelina Fera. Ronald: Odell Erb, Ronald.
District 35— Howard Barnes, Ellensburg, R. 1 : Daisy P. Weaver, Ellens-
burg, R. 1.
District 36 — Elma Wilson, Ellensburg, R. 2.
District 37 — Kathleen O'Neil, Trinidad: Mae Currier. Trinidad.
District 38 — George Bowers. Kittitas : Bertha E. Meinecke, Kittitas :
Cora McEwen, Kittitas.
District 39— Mildred Chapman, Kittitas, R. 1: Edith Meyer, Kittitas. R. 1.
District 40 — Francis Keefe, Cle Elum; Elsie J. Matterson, Cle Elum.
District 43 — Mary Underwood, Ellensburg, R. 4.
District 44 — Mabel Cornwall, Liberty.
District 47— Ruth ]Mullin, Cle Elum; Clara M. Roseburg, Cle Elum.
District 49— Manra Shelton, Roza.
District High 200 — A. D. Foster, Kittitas: Ivy Peterson. Kittitas: Minnie
Gerriets, Kittitas ; Vern Lathrop, Kittitas.
To the above directory of the teachers of Kittitas County, we are append-
ing a summarv' of property valuations and other general data of the county
schools :
Value of grounds and buildings $341,245
\'alue of apparatus, furniture and books 69,857
Number of books in school libraries 10,797
Number of free text books 19,350
Census of children of school age 5,389
Enrollment in the .schools 4,523
Number of school buildings 58
Seating capacity 5,489
For the above data we are indebted to the kindness of County Superintend-
ent S. A. Bartlett.
From information furnished by City Superintendent Linden McCullough
we give the following summary of the school board, the teaching force, and the
school property of the city of Ellensburg at the date of this publication, 1918.
SCHOOL BOARD
J. C. Sterling, President ; A. E. Emerson ; Mrs. Gertie Baker, Clerk : Linden
McCullough, City Superintendent.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 709
HIGH SCHOOL FACULTY
J. H. Morgan, Principal.
Alildred C. Struble, University of Washington; English.
Florence Ball, University of Washington ; English.
Lucia Hall, University of Washington ; Latin, French, Spanish.
Moulton G. Clark, Beloit ; Science.
Verne Hall, University of West Virginia ; Manual Training and Agriculture.
Olea M. Sands, W. S. C. ; Domestic Science and Art.
Mrs. Myra Richardson, W. S. C. ; Domestic Science and Art.
Ruth Jones, Peru, N. S. Neb. ; Commercial.
Beatrice Kittrell, University of Washington ; History.
IMrs. Shrader, Iowa Wesleyan ; Mathematics.
J. Sherrick, on war leave ; former principal.
Ray Green, W. S. N. S., Ellensburg; Manual Arts.
GRADE PRINCIPALS
Lilly Garvey, Lincoln ; S. C. Shrader, Washington ; Edith Morton, Edison.
High School was built in 1912. Cost, including grounds, heating, ventilat-
ing, wiring and plumbing, %72,Z22. Equipment and furniture, $11,010.
Washington building, including grounds, $63,055; equipment, $9,679.36.
Lincoln building, grounds and equipment, $70,500.
Physical valuation of all property, $166,566.
Professor Wilmot G. Whitfield, city superintendent of the Roslyn schools,
has kindly furnished us with information regarding the schools in his charge.
From this we learn that the high school was started in 1901 with two teachers,
Mr. Gifford I. Wilson, now superintendent at Cle Elum, and Miss L. Grindrod,
now of Seattle. The enrollment of pupils for the year just closed is 950. The
value of school grounds, buildings and equipment is $56,000. The school board
consists of John E. Morgan, president ; F. C. Bannister ; W. H. Clark, clerk.
The teachers are as follows:
TE.\CHERS IN PUBLIC SCHOOLS
Roslyn, Wash., 1918-19.
Wilmot G. Whitfield — Superintendent.
Elizabeth D. Schmidt — Assistant Superintendent.
Nellie Hagerty — Supervisor of Music.
Ethel Skirls — Supervisor of Physical Education.
H\gh School — Beatrice Graham, History ; Ruby Mosebar, Manual Training ;
Frances M. Mossfprd, Mathematics, Latin; Eva Packwood, Science; Millie
Pritchard, Sewing; Frances Ray, English: Harriett Stedman. Commercial: Mar-
garet Swartwood, Modern Languages; Grace Uhl, Home Economics; Florence
Wharton, Mathematics.
Central School — Ingeborg Johnson, Principal, Sixth Grade : Leonore Rhoads,
Sixth Grade: Elizabeth Palmer, Fifth (irade; Edwina Rose, Fifth Grade; Selma
710 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Holland, Fourth Grade ; Marie Grundy, Fourth Grade ; Mabel Anderson, Third
Grade.
Primary School — Martha Simpson, Principal, Second Grade ; Elizabeth Man-
ning, Primary Supervisor, First Grade : Hazel Gilkey, First Grade ; Vera Sprinkle,
First Grade ; Cornelia Hooper, Second Grade ; Corinne Saindon, Second Grade.
South School — Emilie Mills, Principal, First Grade ; Ina Bock, Second Grade ;
Grace Dancer, Third Grade ; Mary Packenham. Fourth Grade ; Fanny Guptil.
Fifth Grade; Ruby Drager, Sixth Grade.
CLE ELUM SCHOOLS
From Professor G. I. Wilson, city superintendent of the Cle Elum schools,
we secure the following data on the schools of that system. The high school
was inaugurated in 1909, with eight pupils and three teachers. The teachers
were G. I. Wilson, Carl G. Helm and Edith Hawley. The present estimated
value of school property in Cle Elum is $65,000. The total number of pupils
for the year past was 683. The teaching force for the past \ear follows, but it
should be prefaced with the statement that the destructive fire of the summer of
1918 has so affected population and conditions as to reduce teachers by three and
pupils by nearly two hundred.
Present High School Teachers — Herman Pfeifer, Principal: Alice T. Stach,
Madeline Schaefer, Mrs. J. Lanigan, Sophie Mesher, Ella J. Sundby, Aileen
Shepard, J. C. Bergman, E. F. Davis, Jennie B. Mendham.
Grade Teachers — J. N. Spicer, Helen Sargent, Clara Roseburg, Odell Erb.
Rebecca Flynn, Minnie P. Sharrar, Cecelia G. Will, Eva B. Scobie, Xell D.
Lane, i\Tae I'ollen, Kathryn F. Flynn. \'erna S. \\'ilson. Mrs. P. Henry.
Value of grounds, buildings and equipment, $65,000. Total number of
pupils, 685.
THE WASHINGTON STATE NORMAL SCHOOL
The most important single educational institution in the Yakima Valley, and
one of the great educational forces of the state, is the Washington State Normal
School. This institution is one in which the [)eople of Ellensburg take just
pride. It provides a nucleus for the intellectual as well as civic life of the com-
munity, and in fact is one leading object for the very existence of the town.
For the essential facts in the history of the Normal School we are indebted
to an article by Prof. J. H. Morgan in the beautiful publication, "Quarter Cen-
tury and Kooltuo," edited by the faculty and students of the school, and appear-
ing in 1916, the twenty-fifth anniversary of the life of the school.
The first legislature of the state enacted a law in 1890 providing for the
establishment at Ellensburg of a "school for the training and education of teachers
in the art of instructing and governing in the public schools of the state." A
similar law had been made for a normal school at Cheney. Governor E. P.
Ferry signed the bill for the Cheney Normal on March 22, 1890, and that for
the Ellensburg Normal on March 28. 1890. The law provided for the appoint-
ment by the Governor of three trustees, who with the Governor and the Super-
intendent of Public Instruction were to constitute the Board of Regents. The
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 711
three first appointees were W. R. Abrams, Dr. T. J. Newland and F. W. Agatz,
all residents of EUensburg.
During the first three years of its existence the Normal School occupied
the second floor of the public school building now known as the Central Build-
ing. The use of this location was made free of charge by the city, with pro-
vision that the state make an appropriation for maintenance. The legislature
of 1891 accordingly appropriated $15,000 for maintenance for two years. In
1893 the legislature provided $25,000 for maintenance for another two-year
period.
The Normal School was opened September 7, 1891, with the following
faculty: Benjamin F. Barge, principal; W. N. Hull, assistant principal; Miss
Fannie C. Norris and Miss Rose M. Rice, teachers. Mrs. John Gass was
appointed matron of the dormitory, and for the housing of pupils a brick build-
ing on Craig's Hill was rented. Although the facilities were necessarily meager
at this beginning of things, the faculty was capable and enthusiastic, the towns-
people felt an intelligent interest and furthered the aims of the management
in ever>' way possible, and enough students presented themselves to make an
excellent working body. A three years' course was prescribed and a senior
class of thirteen was formed of the advanced students. During the first year
eighty-six students were enrolled from twenty-five counties.
From the "Register" of June 25, 1892, we take an account of the first year's
work, which is interesting as indicating the contemporary estimate of the school.
ST.\TE NORMAL SCHOOL
Review of first year's work and what it has cost.
The Normal School year ending June 1 has established permanently what
many chose to term an experiment in the beginning. Our legislators chose
wisely and well in providing this institution of learning for the benefit of the
common schools in our state, and now having gone thus far, having established
the nucleus of what shall in time become the greatest institution of learning in
the state, it is well to consider the means necessary to carry on this great under-
taking.
We have first to consider that it is reasonably expected the school will in-
crease in number at the rate of one hundred per year for the next five years.
The first year, just closed, has given the teachers of the state a hint of what is
expected of them, and what their standard of education shall be. To be a
qualified teacher in the state oi Washington five years hence will necessitate a
thorough and practical knowledge of hygiene, physical culture, mental discipline
and human nature, as well as of books and elementary training. Nine-tenths
of those following the avocation of tutor as a profession, will require this special
training, and the Normal School is specially organized for that purpose, and
with that end only in view. The rapid settlement of the state will require a
school in every neighborhood, and nothing short of an army of teachers will
supply the demand.
Having established this high standard of proficiency in the teacher, the
state will require nothing short of a certificate of qualification before license to
teach will be given. As a result, the Normal School will be an extensive insti-
712 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
tution, and as an extensive institution will demand large appropriations from
the state for its maintenance, so large appropriations must be made. At its in-
ception $15,000 was appropriated for the expense of the school for eighteen
months.
By the courtes_v of Mr. Fred W. Agatz, assistant secretary of the board of
trustees, we are enabled to furnish the following statement of disbursements, in-
curred in carrying on the school from September 1, 1891, to June 1, 1892:
Incidental expenses $ 839.98
Taking care of Normal School grounds 324.45
Furniture for school 737.95
Salaries of faculty 5,739.31
Books and apparatus 712.17
Furniture and fixtures, ladies' boarding hall, etc., nine months.. 1,082.15
Total disbursements $9,436.31
The trustees are composed of the following gentlemen, who have by strict
economy and unquestioned ability obtained resuhs that have proven satisfactory
to the state :
W. R. Abrams, president, Ellensburg.
R. B. Bryan, secretary, Olympia.
Dr. T. F. Newland, Ellensburg.
Fred W. Agatz, assistant secretary, Ellensburg.
Hon. E. P. Ferry, ex-officio, Olympia.
The school will continue to be held in the public school building until the state
building is built. The trustees have given much time and attention in fitting up
the grounds for the new building. The ground has been graded and seeded to
lawn, trees planted and cared for and everything done as far as possible to place
the site in readiness.
The members of the faculty have been re-elected by the trustees for the en-
suing year and are as follows :
B. F. Barge, principal.
W. N. Hull, assistant principal.
Miss Fannie C. Norris and Miss Rose M. Rice, teachers of the Model school.
The faculty, although few in numbers, are strong and capable, as is shown
by the past year's work. When the yearly report of the trustees is submitted to
the legislature, that body must surely recognize the importance of a liberal appro-
priation for the succeeding two years. It will no doubt appreciate the careful
management by the trustees of the financial affairs of the school, and can safely
base their estimate for future appropriations upon the record of the past year,
not losing sight of the fact that the school is yet in its infancy.
The next year will begin September 1 with a senior class of twenty-five.
Over one hundred applications for scholarships have been received and all the
room the school has will be crowded to its uttermost.
More apparatus should be supplied in order that the faculty may be fa-
cilitated in their work.
The city of Ellensburg feels justly proud of this institution and the board of
trustees and faculty may both rest assured that they have the hearty cooperation
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 713
and encouragement of her citizens, who will do all in their power to assist in
building up and maintaining the institution. [End of excerpt.]
In the progress of the second year Miss Norris and Miss Rice resigned and
were succeeded by Miss Elvira Marquis and Miss Christina Hyatt. The enroll-
ment of the second year increased to 139, and there were 23 graduates at the end
of the year.
The third year began with some faculty changes, as a result of which J. H.
Morgan became vice-principal and instructor in mathematics; J. A. Mahan became
head of the science department; Elvira Marquis, of the English language and
literature ; Christina Hyatt, principal of the training school ; C. H. Knapp, general
assistant ; Anna L. Steward, assistant in mathematics. In the third year the en-
rollment was 117 and the graduating class numbered 24.
After three years' service Professor Barge resigned, becoming a citizen of
Yakima and entering upon a business career. He became one of the pioneers
in irrigating enterprises and one of the most respected citizens of the Yakima
Valley. Professor P. A. Getz, formerly of the Normal School of Monmouth,
Oregon, became the successor of Professor Barge.
In September, 1894, the new building was occupied. This building is in a
sightly position upon a body of land 400 feet by 680, the larger part of which was
a gift from the city to the state.
This fine campus of over six acres has been improved from year to year
until it has become a truly beautiful place, one to which students look back with
affection, and, as returning visitors, look forward to seeing with pride and pleasure.
The state has made appropriations for a gradual increase of buildings, until at
the present time we find upon the grounds the following structures : The Cen-
tral Building, containing the administrative offices, asuditorium, library, gym-
nasium, music studio, laboratories and class rooms ; the Training School ; the
Home Economics and Industrial Arts Building; Kamola Hall, the dormitory
for women ; Eswin Hall, an affiliated dormitory. These two dormitories accom-
modate about 125 students.
At the close of the school year of 1897-98, Principal Getz resigned, and,
like his predecessor, entered business life. His successor was Professor W. E.
Wilson, formerly principal of the Rhode Island State Normal School.
Professor Wilson made a great place for himself in the respect of educators
throughout the northwest and in the deep affection of his students and asso-
ciates. The Normal School made great advances in educational standards and
attainments during his long administration.
Its activities have been enlarged in many directions, the chief of which may
perhaps be considered under the heads of increase in library to over 10,000
volumes ; the union of the training school with the city school system ; the great
additions to the biological department and the gradual strengthening of the other
scientific lines ; the Summer schools, by which sessions have been held under
the Normal School management, both in Ellensburg and Centralia ; and the
lyceum course maintained by the joint action of the Normal and the Ellensburg
Chamber of Commerce. One of the specially interesting forms of activity has
been the publication during most of the history of the Normal of the "Outlook,"
a magazine of school life, begun in 1899. The "Outlook" was some of the time
714 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
a monthly and sometimes a quarterly. In 1906 it became an annual and the
spelling of its name was reversed, so that it is now known as "Kooltuo." In
1916, the quarter century anniversary, a special number, "The Quarter Century
and Kooltuo" of great artistic and literary merit and interest, was produced by
the joint labor of faculty and students.
Professor \\'ilson ended his long and successful administration of the Nor-
mal School in the Summer of 1916 and retired with the interest and affection of
the entire body of of^cers, faculty and students, as well as of his fellow citizens
of Ellensburg. His successor was Professor George H. Black, formerly presi-
dent of the Idaho State Normal School of Lewiston. Professor Black came to
Ellensburg with the highest of professional standing and his administration has
sustained both his own previous reputation and that of the Normal School.
The present board of trustees, state board of education, administrative offi-
cers and faculty are as follows :
Board of Trustees — Fred P. Wolff, president, Ellensburg; Airs. Frank
Horsley, secretary, Yakima; H. C. Lucas, Yakima.
State Board of Education — Mrs. Josephine Corliss Preston, superintendent
of public instruction, president ex officio, Olympia ; Arthur Wilson, acting sec-
retary ex officio, Olympia; Henry Suzzallo, president. University of Washing-
ton, Seattle; E. O. Holland, president, Washington State College, Pullman;
George H. Black, president. State Normal School, Ellensburg ; W'illiam F. Geiger,
superintendent of schools, Tacoma ; H. M. Hart, principal, Lewis and Clark
high school, Spokane : IMiss Cieorgiana Donald, county superintendent of schools.
Okanogan.
Adm'mistrath'c Staff — George H. Black, president; Mabel Lytton, dean of
women ; Angeline Smith, registrar and recorder ; O. E. Draper, accountant.
F.\CCLTY FOR 1918-1919
George H. Black, president.
Edward G. Anderson, assistant in the department of manual training; Chi-
cago Art Institute, Bradley Polytechnic Institute, University of Washington.
Mabel Anderson, observation teacher, third grade, training school ; graduate
Washington State Normal School, Ellensburg, Washington.
Ida Collings, teacher of penmanship, graduate normal training class, Du-
buque, Iowa ; graduate A. N. Palmer School, Cedar Rapids, Iowa ; student Uni-
versity of Nebraska.
Margaret Adair Davidson, assistant in English department ; graduate Emer-
son College of Oratory; graduate Washington State Normal School, Ellensburg,
Washington.
O. E. Draper, head of the department of business education, and ex officio
accountant ; graduate Vories Business College, Indianapolis ; student Hayward
College, Fairfield, Illinois; student International Accountants" Society; student
Washington State College.
Elsie Dunn, supervisor of rural training center ; graduate Maryville State
Normal School, Missouri ; graduate Drake University.
Louise Farwell. observation teacher, first grade, training school ; Ph. B.,
L^niversity of Chicago.
LOURDES ACADEMY, ELLEXSBURi
GIKLS' nOKMITORY, WASHINGTON STATE NORMAL SCHOOL, ELLENSBURG
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 715
Mary A. Grupe, head of the department of psychology and child study;
graduate State Normal School, Oswego, New York; Ph. B., University of Chi-
cago; graduate student Columbia University.
Verne Hall, assistant in rural department and teacher of agriculture and
club work; graduate West Virginia State Normal School; student College of
Agriculture, West Virginia ; student University of Washington.
Nicholas E. Hinch, head of the department of English and modern
languages; graduate Ontario Normal College; A. B., Toronto University;
graduate student University of Chicago, Harvard University and Columbia Uni-
versity.
Josephine Hoffarth, assistant in department of home economics; graduate
College of St. Teresa, Winona, Minnesota ; Ph. B., University of Chicago.
Adeline B. Hunt, head of the department of fine and applied arts; B. P.,
Syracuse University; graduate Pratt Institute; student Julien's Academic and
Ecole des Beaux- Arts, Paris ; New York School of Art ; Teachers College, Co-
lumbia University; University of Chicago; Cape Cod School of Arts; Ogonquist
School of Arts ; New York School of Fine and Applied Arts.
Edna Johnson, observation teacher, fifth grade, training school ; graduate
Washington State Normal School. Ellensburg, W^ashington.
Ena P. Kindschy, observation teacher, fourth grade, training school ; gradu-
ate Northern Normal and Inciustrial School, Aberdeen, South Dakota ; graduate
Washington State Normal School, Ellensburg, Washington.
Madeline Libert, head of the department of home economics and house-
hold administration; graduate State Normal School, Lewiston, Idaho; B. S., Co-
lumbia University.
Mary Lutz, assistant in department of physical education and kindergarten;
B. S., Columbia University : student University of Pittsburgh ; graduate Chicago
Kindergarten Institute.
]\Iabel Lytton, dean of women ; B. L., Ohio Wesleyan University ; A. M.,
Teachers College, Columbia.
Sadie R. McKinstry, observation teacher, sixth grade, training school ;
graduate Washington State Normal School, Ellensburg, Washington.
*Clara Meisner, director of the kindergarten training department; graduate
Teachers Training School, Davenport, Iowa ; graduate Chicago Kindergarten
Institute : student L'niversity of Chicago.
Zella H. Morris, supervisor of intermediate grades, training school ; B. S.,
Teachers College, Columbia University.
Edith J. Morton, supervisor of grammar grades; student Geneva College,
Pittsburgh ; student Ohio Normal School ; student Rawalpinde College, India.
John P. Munson, head of the department of biological sciences; Ph. B.,
Yale ; M. S., University of Wisconsin ; Ph. D., University of Chicago.
Marie Pierson, observation teacher, seventh grade, training school : graduate
Washington State Normal School, Ellensburg, Washington.
Rebecca B. Rankin, librarian; B. A., University of Michigan; S. B., in Li-
brary Science, Simmons College Library School, Boston.
Mrs. Nellie A. Roegner, assistant librarian ; Student College for Women,
Oxford, Ohio; Riverside Library Service School, California.
•Leave of absence the first quarter.
716 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Floy A. Rossman, head of the department of music ; Ph. B., Hamline Uni-
versity; M. A.. University of Minnesota.
Myrtle Sholty, supervisor of primary grades, training school ; Ph. B., in
Education, L'niversity of Chicago: graduate student Teachers College, Columbia
University.
Helen Smith, assistant in the kindergarten department; student New Eng-
land Conservatory of Music, Boston; graduate Washington State Normal School,
Ellensburg, Washington; student University of Chicago.
Selden Smyser, head of the department of social sciences ; Ph. B., De Pauw
University; Fellow in Economics; M. A., Ohio State University; graduate
student Cornell University.
William T. Stephens, head of the department of education ; A. B., A. M.,
Indiana University; A. M., Harvard; graduate student University of Chicago.
Jessie G. Stuart, supervisor of rural training center ; graduate Iowa State
Teachers College, Cedar Falls, Iowa.
Ralph W. Swetman, director of the graded training school ; Ph. B., Hamil-
ton College ; A. M., Teachers College, Columbia University.
Alfce Wilmarth, head of the department of physical education : graduate
Chicago School of Physical Education and Expression ; student University of
Wisconsin and Iowa State University.
W. E. Wilson, president emeritus.
*Henry J. Whitney, head of the department of vocational education; B. S.,
Northwestern University ; graduate student University of Wisconsin.
Earl S. Wooster, director of extension work and head of the department
of rural training; graduate Cortland Normal School; A. B., Amherst College.
Mrs. Hazel Sherrick, observation teacher, eighth grade, training school;
graduate University of Washington.
Lois Fisher, observation teacher, second grade, training school ; graduate
Washington State Normal School, Ellensburg.
By the catalogue of 1918 we learn that the enrollment of the jiast \ear
was 491. Graduates at the commencement of 1918 were 109.
The Normal School, like the other institutions dependent for maintenance
upon the state, has in general had generous provision for its needs. The total
appropriations from the year of foundation, 1891, up to and including 1915,
were $972,825.00.
No historical record of the State Normal School or of the schools of Ellens-
burg would be complete without special reference to Prof. J. H. Morgan. He
may justly be called the dean of all the teachers of the Yakima \'alley. Pro-
fessor Morgan came to Washington Territory in 1880. He has been constantly
engaged in educational work since that date. For three years he was teacher
in country districts in Walla Walla Cbunty, two years principal of the Dayton
schools, four years in the same capacity in Waitsburg, two years superintendent
of Walla Walla County. In 1887. by appointment of Governor Eugene Semple,
he became territorial superintendent of schools, from which position he removed
to Ellensburg, becoming both county superintendent and principal of the
*Leave of absence the first quarter.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 717
EUensburg school system. In 1892 he became vice-principal of the State Nor-
mal School and head of the mathematics department. That position he held
twenty-three years, resigning in 1916 and becoming principal of the EUensburg
High School. Professor Morgan was for several terms a member of the State
Board of Education and president of the State Educational Association. It is
stated that he has been upon the staff of instructors of institutes in twenty coun-
ties. It is probable that no one in central Washington, possibly no one in the
entire state, has come in personal contact with so many pupils and teachers as
Professor Morgan.
Besides the public schools and the Normal School, there have been two
private schools worthy of mention. One of these was the Presbyterian Acad-
emy. That institution was organized in 1884 by Rev. James Laurie, pastor of
the Presbyterian Church. A fund of $1,300 was raised for the purpose of
equipping the school. $500 being contributed by the people of the town and
the remainder by the church board. With the means provided the promoters
of the academy purchased the public school building, adapting it to the new use.
The academy was maintained some ten years, being quite a center of light and
learning to the young people of the community, until with the improved and
larger life of the public schools it became plain that any private academy could
no longer hold its own. The building was therefore made part of the Presby-
terian Church, and it fulfills that function to this day.
There is now in existence in EUensburg, a Roman Catholic School for pri-
mary scholars. This is Lourdes Academy. It is housed in a very comfortable
and attractive brick building and is well patronized and sustained. It is under
the general charge of Father Luytin, pastor of the Catholic Church. The
principal is Sister Angelas.
CHURCHES OF ELLENSBURG
There seem to be somewhat varying statements as to the priority in church
organization. Our constant and reliable authority, Mr. Gerrit d'Ai)laing, tells
us that Rev. Robert Hatfield of the Methodist Church was the first minister in
EUensburg, but that the Presbyterian Church was the first to be organized and
to maintain regular services. That was in 1879. Rev. Father Aloysius Parrodi
of the Catholic Church, is quoted in the "History of Central Washington" as
saying that he held the first Roman Catholic services in Kittitas County. In
that year Father Parrodi built a small church about two miles south of EUens-
burg. In 1885 he built the church still used by his denomination in the city.
In 1887 Father Parrodi was succeeded by Father Custer, and he, in turn, by
Father Sweens in 1895.
The first pastor of the Presbyterian Church was J. R. Thompson, and the
church was organized July 20, 1879. We find in the little pamphlet history of
EHensburg gotten out by the sixth grade children of the Edison School (the
information was derived from old-timers and is generally found correct) the
assertion that Mr. David Thomas was the first preacher and that he was a
Presbyterian. Rev, James Laurie was the second Presbyterian pastor during
the period 1884-89, and during his pastorate the EUensburg Academy was
organized under the auspices of his church. The Methodist Church began at
just about the same period as the Presbyterian. Rev. George W. Kennedy,
718 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
one of the genuine frontier preachers, well known all over central and eastern
Washington, from whose book, "Pioneer Campfires," we have made extracts
in an earlier chapter, was in the Kittitas \'alley very early, probably the earliest
of any preacher, but not to have regular appointments.
It appears from some interesting records in "Pioneer Campfires" that Mr.
Kennedy held church services in the Kittitas Valley as early as 1873. We take
from that book an extract centering around the famous Indian, Smohalla
"the Dreamer":
"Across on the Columbia at Priest Rapids, there was the Smohalla band
of about 500. Then Chief Moses and his band were just a little beyond, on the
Wenatchee.
"During all the early settlement, there was constant alarm. The Spring
of 73 the j\Iodoc War came on. The Indians all over the interior were uneasy,
and many of them took the 'warpath.'
"At the culmination of the battle at the lava beds those treacherous Modocs
proposed a treaty, and General Canby. Doctor Thomas, Agent Dyer, and Super-
intendent Meacham went out to treat with the Indians. But Captain Jack and
those four others, came with concealed weapons, and at a signal struck down
and murdered the peace commission. This inflamed the whole Indian popula-
tion of the Northwest. At this time I must go to the upper valley and meet
my appointments, forty miles away, and through the Indians' range, without
a single settler. Dodging through as best I could, I found the people badly
scared and ready to fort up. Old Chief Smohalla and his band of 200 had cume
over from Priest Rapids and were camped within the Valley.
"into the hostile camp"
"All the people came out on Sunday. ]\Ionday came; something must be
done to relieve the terrible strain. Accordingly, four of us saddled our
horses and started for Smohalla's camp. We went unarmed, thinking it safer
to meet tljpm on square footing of friendship. We took them completely by
surprise. We asked to see the chief. The Indians spoke in the jargon tongue,
and told us to tie our horses and wait the appointment of Chief Smohalla. We
took a position on a hill in the middle of their camp, and had a full view. Xot
long after we saw all the Indian men going down to the council tent. Then
they sent out an escort for us.
"As we entered the door of that long wigwam, nearly every warrior was
present, ranged on both sides, the chief at the rear end. He looked like a king.
Stolid as a statue. He was the war leader of the Columbias. We thought of
the treachery of the Modocs, but we could not back out now. ( ^n we went
until just before the chief. He motioned us to stand there : then asked the
reason for our coming. I spoke to him in jargon and explained the purpose
for our meeting. Then said, we wanted first to preach a sermon to him and
bis pco])lc from the 'white man's book of heaven.'
"That seemed to relieve all apprehension on his ])art and such a stillness
I never saw in any audience before. For the space of half an hour not a
muscle moved : not an eyelid quivered. Rigid attention.
"I then told them that our people had become alarmed, for they thought
so large a band of Indians meant hostilitv. And that God had made us all
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 719
brothers and not enemies. So the Great Father wanted us all to live together
in peace on earth. Then the old chief spoke: 'If we are all brothers, why
has the white man taken our lands from us? Has the white man any rights
here in Kittitas that the Indian has any right to respect? The Indians came
l^rst.'
"W'ell, that was an unanswerable speech. But I excused the white man
all possible. "That we could plow and plant where they could not and still
let them hunt and fish.' And I promised utmost friendship on the part of
the white brothers.
"We gave them our hand shake and pronounced benediction of God on
them, and Chief Smohalla agreed to accept that as the 'Pipe of peace.' We
finally got a change of countenance in that stern face ; his hearty farewell —
'Klose tillacum mika,' and then under those balm and fir trees we most devoutly
thanked God for saving us from savage treachery, and rode away."
In a sketch prepared by Rev. J. S. Smith for the "History of Central
Washington," it is asserted that the first Methodist sermon was preached
in the schoolhouse by Rev. Robert Hatfield in the Spring of 1880. In Septem-
ber of that year Rev. D. L. Spalding organized the first class, Dr. Newton
Henton being leader. The first church building was erected during the pastor-
ate of Rev. S. W. Richards. It received improvements and enlargements under
Rev. Ira Wakefield and J. W. Maxwell.
The fire of 1889 destroyed both the parsonage and the church of the Metho-
dist congregation. It has been estimated that 1,500 members have been received
into the Methodist Church.
The first Christian Church came into existence in April, 1886. Rev. J- P-
McCorkle was the first pastor. A church was at once erected and that has
escaped the various disastrous fires and is still occupied. The next year Rev. J. E.
Denton became pastor. At the expiration of his term several short terms followed
until 1904, when Rev. C. H. Hilton was chosen to the pastorate. A second
Christian Church was formed in 1900, the first pastor of which was Rev. W. M.
Kenney. After meeting in various places for three years, the congregation
built a church of their own in 1903. On January 19, 1919, the Christian denomi-
nations dedicated a new brick church, thefinest in the town, costing $29,000,
with seating capacity for five hundred.
The Baptist Church dates from 1887. In that year Rev. Mr. Reese organ-
ized what became known as the First Baptist Church. In 1888 a building was
provided arid that is used at the present time. ,
Services of the Episcopal Church had been held at intervals after 1883.
In 1894 Bishop Lemuel Wells, one of the great organizers of eastern Wash-
ington, organized a church of his denomination. In 1896, Rev. Andreas Bard,
later of Walla Walla, and at the present time of Kansas City, one of the most
brilliant orators ever known to the pulpit of the state, became first rectorl of
the Episcopal Church, which became known as Grace Episcopal Church.
The churches named above constituted the permanent churches of Ellens-
burg. There were several attempted church organizations which ultimatelv
blended with the stronger churches. Among these was an early Congregational
Church, which by a system of cooperation instituted by the Presbyterian and
720 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Congregational bodies, became merged with the I'resbyterian, with the agree-
ment that the Congregational denomination maintain a church at some other
point which might absorb the Presbyterians. The Free ]\Iethodists and Men-
nonites also had transient organizations. Lutheran churches were organized
later and have been maintained to the present. There is a considerable body
of negroes in Ellensburg and to meet their church needs an African Methodist
Church was formed.
At the present date the churches and pastors are as follows: Grace Epis-
copal, Rev. H. I. Oberholtzer; First Presbyterian, Rev. Paul J. Lux; First
Methodist, Rev. W. B. Young; Christian, Rev. F. E. Billington; First Baptist,
Rev. C. R. Cleringer; Roman Catholic, Rev. Father Luyten ; Good Hope Luth-
eran, Rev. Ewald Kirst : African Methodist. Rev. C I'.. Clements; F\t>{ Luth-
eran, Rev. G. Blessum.
FR.\TERNAL AND MISCELLANEOUS SOCIETIES
Like other cities in the active-minded and well-educated state of Washing-
ton, Ellensburg has its full quota of organizations for cultivating the fraternal,
social, intellectual, and moral welfare of the community.
The usual fraternal orders came in with the town. The Masons were first
in the field. Ellensburg Lodge No. 39 was organized in or just before 1880.
In 1886 the Ellensburg Chapter No. 11, R. A. M., and the Temple Commandery
No. 5, K. T., came into being. The Masons had a home of their own in 1888,
a building very creditable to themselves and ihe young city, but the fire of
1889 robbed them of their pleasant quarters. A subsequent building was lost
by reason of the financial stringency. The order has, however, maintained an
active existence. At the present date the secretary is E. J- Lindberg.
The Independent Order of Odd Fellows dates back to the year 1881. At
that time Ellensburg Lodge No. 20 w-as established by the grand master of the
state, G. T. McConnell. In 1884 the lodge laid out a cemetery on Craig's Hill.
In 1890 Ellensburg Encampment No. 16 was founded, and at the same time
Miriam Rebekah Lodge No. 25 was instituted. At the present date the three
lodges are in active existence and their officers are as follows : Ellensburg
Encampment, C. W. Turner, C. P.; F. M. Cheney, S. W. ; W. P. Hiddleson,
Scribe; Peter Garvey, Treasurer. Miriam Rebekah Lodge, Valentine Cheney,
N. G. ; Loella Winslow, V. G. ; Emma J. Vincent, R. S. ; Grace Shaw, Treas-
urer. Ellensburg Lodge No. 20, R. L. Harris, N. G. ; Herman Eyman, Y. G. ;
W. P. Hiddleson, Secretary ; W. A. Edmonson, Treasurer.
The Woodmen of the World are represented by Ellensburg Camp No. 88,
founded in 1891. Alki Circle, Women of Woodcraft, was organized in 1900.
The Modern Woodmen of America have Ellensburg Camp No. 5.714, which
came into being September 24, 1898. In 1902 Harmony Lodge No. 3,001, Royal
Neighbors, came into existence.
The Ancient Order of United Workmen was organized in 1896 with Fra-
ternal Lodge No. 70. In 1901 Cascade Lodge No. 37 was duly established.
In 1901, also, Ellensburg Aerie No. 120, Fraternal Order of Eagles, was
established.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 721
The Knights of Pythias were organized at about the same date and liave
maintained one of the strongest fraternal societies in Ellensburg. At the pres-
ent time their commander is William Freybarger and their secretary is Beck-
with Hubbell. The Elks have also a strong society, in Ellensburg No. 1102.
At this date Thomas Cunningham is secretary.
One of the organizations which beyond all others the people of this coun-
try ought to and almost always do honor is the Grand Army of the Republic. In
the nature of the case the days of this noble society are numbered and except for
its heritages, which can never cease to pass down from generation to genera-
tion, it must soon cease to be. It occupies, for that fact in part, but yet more
for its unique and exalted character, a place alone in American estimation.
Ellensburg Post No. 11, G. A. R., came into being April 25, 1884. The first
officers of this post were as follows, and in giving these names it is interesting
to remember that the list embraces not alone members of the Grand Army of
the Republic, but also some of the genuine builders of the Kittitas country.
Commander, J. L. Brown; senior vice-commander, H. D. Marwin; junior vice-
commander, S. T. Packwood : surgeon, S. T. Mason ; chaplain, J. D. Dammon ;
quartermaster, D. Ford ; officer of the day, William Tillman ; officer of the
guard, B. Lewis; inside sentinel, J. J. Swett; sergeant major, H. H. Swasey;
quartermaster sergeant, G. W. Carver; adjutant, J. C. Goodwin; other charter
members, John A. Shoudy, J. W. Dixon, J. B. Swett, E. H. Love, J. Wilson,
and H. Davies. One very interesting event in connection with the G. A. R.
is the first Decoration Day, May 30, 1884. An account of this appears in the
"Standard" of June 7th. The meeting was held in what seems to have been
the usual public gathering place at that time, Elliott's Hall, and the orator of
the day was Rev. James Laurie of the Presbyterian Church. At the date of
this work, David Kinkaid is past commander of the Ellensburg G. A. R. An
active Woman's Relief Corps is maintained, of which the president is Mrs.
Martha Beddoes.
The women of Ellensburg are in the forefront in associations for the cul-
ture and improved morality of the city.
Several women's clubs have served to keep an ever progressive movement
of mind and taste so vital in a new region where, in the nature of things, art
works and accumulations of objects of historical and cultural value are attain-
able to a less degree than in old communities. The Friday Club was the earliest
of the women's clubs, dating its origin to 1895. The Gallina Club was organized
in 1900. Mrs. S. B. Weed was first president of the Gallina Club. The Ellens-
burg Art Club was formed in 1900. Mrs. J. B. Davidson was first president.
A little later the Women's Municipal Society came into existence with the
avowed, and in fact attained, aim of bettering the civic life of the city. It goes
without saying that the general refinement and the usual high standard of life
in Ellensburg owes much to these various organizations of the women of the
city. That most active of all the politico-moral organizations of the women
of the United States, the Woman's Christian Temperance Union, has been well
represented here. In 1887 a local society was formed, and Mrs. Emily Horn-
beck was chosen president. Through the efl'orts mainlv of the W C T V the
(46)
722 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
ornament and convenience of the drinking fountain in the center of the intersec-
tion of Fifth and Pearl streets was provided.
The Ladies' Municipal Club has been in existence for many years and is
in a very flourishing condition, with one hundred members.
The Daughters of the American Revolution was organized by Mrs. J. B.
Davidson, who became the first regent in the Spring of 1918. The society be-
gan with twenty-two members. The first work was to organize the first Red Cross
Auxiliary in Kittitas, March 29, 1918. Twenty-five sewing circles were organ-
ized with 250 members. In May, Mrs. Davidson was chosen to represent El-
lensburg in the great Red Cross meeting in Portland. Following this, a chapter
of the Red Cross was established at Ellensburg, and by the efforts of Mrs.
Davidson and the Circle leaders, over $700 was raised by the women alone
in membership fees, as a working fund for the new society.
Ellensburg has had, in addition to its societies, schools, and churches, the
advantage of location on the main line of the Northern Pacific Railroad and,
since 1909, of the Milwaukee Railroad, and that fact, together with the existence
of a fine auditorium in the Normal School and of a first class small opera house,
has made it possible to secure the best theatrical, operatic, musical and lyceum
circuits and the best lecturers on educational, political, and general themes.
Owing to the happy conjunction of suitable buildings and convenient transpor-
tation facilities, Ellensburg has enjoyed all these forms of culture and enter-
tainment unusual in a town of its size.
THE CHAMBER OF COM.MERCE
In many respects the -organization which beyond all others reflects the life
of a community and organizes that life for practical improvement is the Com-
mercial Club or Chamber of Commerce. There may be towns which attain
growth and prosperity and set goals of civic improvement well ahead without
such bodies, but if so they are a peculiar phenomenon in history. The author
has not discovered any such phenomenon. Usually towns rise or fall with the
activity and progressiveness of their commercial organizations.
The first steps in the history of the commercial society of Ellensburg were
taken in February, 1902. A meeting of citizens was held in the office of the
city clerk. P. A. Getz was temporary chairman and J. C. Hubbell temporary
secretary. After interchange of ideas and general discussion as to the nature
and aims of the society, the meeting adjourned to February 26. A committee of
which C. P. Graves was chairman had been appointed to solicit attendance at
the forthcoming meeting. The committee performed its functions so well that
when the 26th arrived a good attendance arrived with it. The committee on
permanent organization rendered a report by its chairman, Ralph Kaufifman,
M-hich after some modification was adopted. The "Ellensburg Club," as it was
first called, came duly into the light of life. The following were the first execu-
tive committee and officers : Executive committee, J. C. Hubbell, Mat Bartholet,
James Ramsay and C. H. Stewart. President, R. B. Wilson ; vice-president, H.
W. Wager ; secretary, P. A. Getz ; treasurer, E. H. Snowden.
Many questions of importance and interest to the vital needs of the com-
munity were discussed and action taken upon them in the meetings of the "Ellens-
burg Club." It must be noted, however, that it soon ceased to be the "Ellens-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 723
burg Club." On March 21, 1904, the name became the Kittitas County Com-
mercial Club.
On May 11, 1906, action was taken to promote the inauguration of raising
sugar beets and securing the erection of a sugar factory. The club was divided
into two rival companies, the Hustlers and the Rustlers, for the purpose of work-
ing up enthusiasm and enlisting farmers to raise beets and capitalists to build
the factory. J. C. Hubbell was captain of the Hustlers and F. E. Craig was
captain of the Rustlers. The list of each company as recorded in the minutes
examined by the author is a practical directory of the community of that date,
for substantially all the business and professional men of the town were in one
or the other company.
The Hustlers were as follows : J. C. Hubbell, Dr. McCauley, Mat Bartho-
let, B. A. Gault, J. W. Vanderbilt, R. A. Turner, S. Pearson, R. Lee Purdin, H.
F. Blair, J. P. Flynn, A. C. Steinman, F. L. Calkins, James Ramsay, S. C.
Boedcher, James Stevenson, S. P. Fogarty, J. C. Sterling, E. H. Snowden, J. A.
Shoudy, A. T. Schultz, H. M. Baldwin, Oliver Hinman, S. W. Barnes, J. E.
Ferrel,' A. C. Spaulding, J. H. McDaniels, W. C. Reece, F. P. Wolflf, F. Bossong,
R. B. Wilson, L. E. Palmer, S. Kreidel, F. A. Home, P. Garvey, H. S. Kurtitz,
R. Lee Barnes, B. F. Reed, Thomas Cody, Thomas Haley, J. B. Davidson, W.
C. Hayward, F. C. Porter, F. J. Page.
That certainly made an imposing array, but it was well matched by the
Rustlers. Their membership was : F. E. Craig, H. E. Thompson, C. W. John-
son, P. H. Ross, C. S. Palmer, Ralph Kauflfman, W. B. Price, E. S. Coleman, C.
R. Honey, S. P. Wippel, C. H. Flummerfelt, Dr. J. .\. Mahan. Andrew Oleson,
O. W. Sinclair, Mitchel Stevens, G. E. Dickson, H. E. Dodd, H. L. Stowell, M.
Cameron, W. H. Talbot, P. G. Fitterer, H. S. Elwood, Dr. Felch, T. H. Mc-
Granahan, J. B. Fogarty, H. F. Nichols, W. H. Packwood, Herbert Williams,
A. H. Stulfauth. E. G. Grindrod, H. W. Haley, W. F. Zetzsche, J. H. Wippel,
C. O. Johnson, V. U. Blackmore, William Dignon, W. J. Robbins, E. D. Lamar,
F. D. Scott, R. H. Stevens, E. J. Brain, W. D. Bruton. As a result of the
efforts of the club, 1,278 acres for sugar beets were contracted for. The beets
seem to have done well, but conditions in 1907 and onward were difficult
financially, and in spite of a favorable outlook for beet sugar production, the
factory has never been erected. It is one of the coming things "after the war."
The club initiated special efforts at the meeting of June 8, 1906, to secure
the location of the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Railroad at Ellensburg.
Favorable conditions for right of way «nd depot grounds were made and in
1909 that great transcontinental line completed its passage of the Columbia
River, climbed the lofty ridge between the Columbia and the Kittitas Basin,
clove Craig's Hill with a deep cut, and became a definite part of the transporta-
tion instrumentalities of Kittitas. During the same period that the club was
encouraging the location of the Milwaukee, it was providing for a readable and
inviting pamphlet for publicity purposes, "Kittitas, the Land of Plenty." This
fine advertisement of the resources and attractions of Kittitas was gotten out
jointly by the JCittitas Club and the Cle Elum Commercial Club. In this con-
nection the activity and progressive character of the business men of Cle Elum
may well be noted.
724 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
During -a large part of the early history of the club, under two names, the
secretary was P. H. W. Ross, and to his industry and vision the success of the
club is largely attributable.
A very important meeting was held on June 8, 1908. This is noted in the
minutes as "important, though irregular." It was not on a regular meeting
night. It was called especially to discuss the location of the Milwaukee depot,
with representatives of that road. At that meeting the club joined the Spokane
Chamber of Commerce and appointed a committee to provide for a permanent
exhibit at the Spokane Apple Show. The committee consisted of B. F. Reed,
J. P. Flynn, T. T. Wilson, J. E. Farrell and S. P. Wippel. There was still an-
other interesting feature of that exceptionally important meeting. J. C. Hub-
bell, then president of the club, made an address, welcoming the city council,
who were present in a body, setting forth the purpose of the club to co-operate
with the city ofificials in promoting the welfare of the town, and especially at
that time in beautification of it. Mayor \V. J. Peed responded in a like cordial
spirit, making special mention of improved fire protection just then provided.
On August 17, 1908, another important step was taken. The name was
changed to Ellensburg Chamber of Commerce. At that meeting provision was
made for the purchase and distribution of a thousand copies of the Kittitas num-
ber of the "Coast Magazine," a valuable number to which we are indebted for
some of the facts used in this work.
At the time of adoption of the new name a new constitution was provided.
As indicating the organization under which the Chamber has been carrying on
its work for ten years this constitution may well find a permanent place in this
volume. We accordingly include it at this point.
CONSTITUTION OF THE ELLENSBURG CH.\MBER OF COMMERCE
Article I.
Name. The name of tlie corporation shall be the "Ellensburg Chamber
of Commerce."
Article II.
Aim. The aim of the corporation shall be to originate and further everj-
possible movement looking to the improvement and enlargement of the material
resources and activities of the city of Ellensburg and county of Kittitas. Wash-
ington.
Article III.
Members. The members of this corporation shall be the signers of the
constitution, and such other persons as may be elected in accordance with the by-
laws to be hereafter adopted.
Article IV.
Officers. The officers of this corporation shall be a president, vice president,
secretary, treasurer and nine trustees.
Article V.
Government. The president, the vice president and the board of nine trus-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 725
tees shall constitute a governing board, which shall manage the business and
property of the corporation, control its atifairs, provide for such regular and
special meetings of the corporation as they may deem proper, fill vacancies of
offices for any unexpired term, and enforce all rules necessary for the govern-
ment of the corporation and not in conflict with the by-laws. The governing
board may discipline members, and to that end may impose fines and expel
members for grave ofTenses : provided, that any member shall have the right of
appeal to the Chamber from the decisions of the board.
Article VI.
Amendments. This constitution may be amended by a ballot vote of two-
thirds of the members present at any regular monthly meeting of the cor-
poration, provided that nine days' written notice embodying a copy of the pro-
posed amendment, or amendments, shall have been mailed or otherwise given
to each member by the secretary.
Article I.
Membership
Section 1. Classes. Membership shall be in five classes, namely: Resi-
dent, non-resident, junior, commercial traveler and honorary.
a. Resident members shall be those residing personally, or maintaining
a place of business, within one mile of the city limits not less than ten w-eeks
in any twelve consecutive months of their membership. Dues, $18.00 per year,
payable i|uarterly in advance.
b. Non-resident members shall be all members not specified in sections
a. c, d and e, of this article. Dues, $12.00 per year, payable semi-annually in
advance.
c. Junior members shall be all persons under 21 years of age. Dues,
$6.00 per year, payable semi-annually in advance.
d. Commercial travelers shall be any commercial travelers actually en-
gaged in business on the road, not residing in Ellensburg. Dues, $1.00 per
year, payable in advance.
e. Honorary members shall be those so elected by the Chamber, exempt
from dues.
f. Each class of membership is ecjual to every other class in voice and
vote. Only resident or non-resident members may hold office.
Section 2. Applicants. Every applicant for membership shall sign a
blank form, stating his acceptance and purpose of allegiance to the constitution
and by-laws of the corporation, filled in with his name, occupation and address,
and endorsed Iiy a member of the corporation. His application must be
announced at a regular meeting of the corporation, after which he may be-
come a member by the acceptance of the majority of the governing board.
Section 3. Dues and Delinquency, a. Dues shall be payable dating
from the first of the month of the member's application, unless the application
726 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
be dated on or after the 20th of the month, in which case his dues shall date
from the first of the following month.
b. Delinquency in the payment of any liability to the Chamber for thirty
days after notice by the secretary shall suspend the delinquent from member-
ship until the liability be met. Three months delinquency shall constitute a
forfeiture of membership. Forfeited membership can be redeemed only on
payment of the delinquent dues and by the consent of the governing board.
Section 4. Resignations. Resignation may be received by the governing
board upon the payment of all dues and liabilities incurred up to the time of
resignation.
Section 5. Leave of Absence. Any person who may be absent from the
vicinity of EUensburg for the period of six months or more, and who shall,
before leaving, give notice of such contemplated absence, may be granted a
leave of absence without dues; provided, that a return of such member within
six months shall forfeit the leave of absence granted and make him liable for
back dues.
Section 6. Trial of Charges. All charges against members shall be tried
by the governing board, according to the forms laid down in "Roberts' Rules
of Order."
Article II.
Section I. President and Vice President. The president and vice presi-
dent, acting without salary, shall perform the duties usually ascribed to those
officers, and shall serve in terms of one year. In the absence of both at any
meeting of the Chamber or governing board, the secretary shall call the meet-
ing to order and a member of the governing board shall be chosen to fill the
chair.
Section 2. Treasurer. The treasurer shall serve without salary for a
term of one year. He shall give a bond or not, in the discretion of the gov-
erning board. He shall pay out no money save by check on a voucher signed
by the president and secretary. He shall report monthly and annually to the
governing board.
Section 3. Secretary. The secretary shall be appointed by the governing
board, and shall hold office during the board's approval. He shall draw a
salary fixed by the governing board with the ratification of the Chamber, and
may appoint an assistant or assistants at such cost as the governing board may
approve. He shall keep all minutes and other records and conduct all official
correspondence of the Chamber and governing board, collect all moneys and
deposit them immediately with the treasurer, submit in writing detailed financial
and general reports at each monthly and annual meeting of the Chamber and
perform such additional duties as the governing board may require or occasion
may suggest. He shall give a surety bond or not, in the discretion of the
governing board. He shall have the standing of a resident member, exempt
from dues.
Section 4. Trustees. The trustees shall serve for terms of three years,
in overlapping classes, three trustees to be elected each year.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 727
Section 5. Resignations and vacancies. All officers shall serve for the
terms for which they are elected, and until their respective successors are
elected and qualified. Resignations of officers shall be accepted or rejected,
and all vacancies for unexpired terms filled by the governing board.
Article III.
Committees
Section 1. Standing Comtnittees. At its first meeting in each fiscal year,
the governing board shall decide what standing committees will be required
for the work of that year. The president shall then appoint such committees,
subject to the approval of the governing board. These committees shall re-
port to the Chamber.
Section 2. Ex-Officio Committeemen. Each standing committee shall in-
clude in its membership at least one member of the governing board, and the
president shall be an e.x-officio member of each standing committee.
Section 3. Special Committees. Special committees may be appointed
by the president, or elected in the manner chosen by the meeting of the govern-
ing board or Chamber creating the committee; and in such cases it shall be
specified whether the committee shall report to the governing board or to the
Chamber. Special committees shall serve until their work is accomplished
or until they are discharged.
Section 4. Committee Meetings and Vice Chairmen. Meetings shall be
called by the chairman or by a majority of the committee. Committeemen
shall be vice chairmen in order of their names in appointment.
Section 5. Reports Written. All committee reports shall be in writing,
and signed by each committee member concurring in the conclusions of the
report.
Article IV.
Meetings
Section 1. Annual Meeting. The annual meeting of the Chamber shall
be held on the second Wednesday of February, at which time new officers shall
be installed and the out-going officers make their annual reports.
Section 2. Monthly Meetings. The regular monthly business meeting of
the Chamber shall be held on the second Wednesday of each month.
Section 3. Weekly Meetings. Each Wednesday at noon there shall be
held a luncheon meeting, which shall be a regular business meeting for all pur-
poses o£ action, save the passing of amendments to the constitution and by-
laws. At any weekly meeting, if desired for the purpose of saving time, the
reading of minutes, hearing of reports and other routine business may by
common consent or by a majority vote of those present be deferred until the
next following monthly meeting.
Section 4. Special Meetings. Special meetings of the Chamber may be
called by the president, or by the secretary on the signed request of a quorum
of members; provided, that written notice of the time and place and business
728 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
of the meeting shall be mailed by the secretary to every member not less than
twenty-four hours in advance of the time of the meeting.
Section 5. Meeting Public. All regular meetings of the Chamber shall
be open to the public; but the Chamber may at any meeting, on a majority
vote of those present, resolve itself into executive session.
Section 6. Quorum of Chamber. At any meeting of the Chamber,
fifteen members shall constitute a quorum.
Section 7. Board Meetings. The governing board shall meet once a
month, at a time preceding the monthly meeting of the Chamber and as close
thereto as convenience will allow.
a. Additional meetings may be called by the president ; or by the vice
president in the president's absence or inaccessibility ; or by th scrtary on the
signed request of three trustees; provided, that in any case a notice of the
time and place and business of the meeting shall be mailed by the secretary to
each member of the board not less than 24 hours in advance of the time of
meeting. But such written notice may be waived by the unanimous consent
of the members of the board, written and filed as a part of the minutes of such
meeting.
Section 8. Quorum of Board. A quorum of the governing board shall
consist of five members.
Section 9. Non-Attendance of Board Members. Absence by any mem-
ber of the governing board for three consecutive meetings, unless excused by
the board, shall be deemed a resignation, and the office vacated.
Section 10. Order of Business. At every meeting of the Chamber or
governing board, the order of business shall be as follows:
1. Minutes.
2. Announcements and communications.
3. Reports.
4. Unfinished business.
5. Special order of the day.
6. New business.
7. Miscellaneous.
8. Adjournment.
Section 11. Motions Written. Upon the request of any member in good
standing at any meeting of the Chamber or governing board, a motion must be
written in the form in which it is to appear on the minutes, before a vote is
taken on it.
Section 12. Committee Meetings. See Article 3, Section 4.
Article V.
Elections
Section 1. Annual Election. The annual election of the Chamber shall
be held on the last Wednesday of January, and the polls shall be open from
6 to 9 P. M.
Section 2. Nominating Committees. The governing board shall, not less
than three weeks previous to the annual election, select two nominating com-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 729
mittees of three men, from non-official members of the Chamber in good stand-
ing. These committees shall each nominate a full ticket for the offices to be
vacated, and they shall confer together to the end that no man shall be
nominated for more than one office, nor the same man be nominated for the
same office by both committees. The nominating committees shall announce
their tickets at the weekly meeting two weeks previous to the election.
Section 3. Independent Nominations, a. Any ten members in good
standing may nominate a full or partial ticket in addition to the nominations
made by the nominating committees, by signing and delivering to the secre-
tary such nominations in writing; but no man may be nominated in any manner
for more than one office, nor can any member join in the nomination of more
than one man for any office. Such nominations shall be announced by the
secretary at the weekly luncheon meeting one week prior to the election, and
shall be equal in all respects to those made by the two nominating committees.
Section 4. Consent of Nominees. The acceptance of each nominee for
office shall be obtained by the committee or group of ten members making the
nomination, before the presentation to the chamber of the name of such
nominee.
Section 5. Closing of Nbminations. Nominations shall close at the ad-
journment of the weekly luncheon meeting one week prior to the election, and
no person shall be eligible to office unless nominated in accordance with the
provisions of sections 2, 3 and 4 of this article.
Section 6. Judges of Election. The governing board shall name three
judges of election from non-official members (^f the Chamber. These judges
shall sit at the polls from 6 to 9 P. M. They shall be provided by the secre-
tary with a complete alphabetical list of members qualified to vote, and shall
check on such list each voter's name as he receives from them his blank ballot,
and cross-check his name as he returns his ballot. They shall then deposit the
voter's ballot in a covered box; and shall count the ballots and declare the re-
sult immediately on the closing of the polls.
Section 6. Miscellaneous, a. Delinquent members may not vote.
b. No proxies shall be "voted, nor any ballots be cast except in person
by the voter.
c. A plurality of votes shall elect to any office.
d. Ties shall be decided by lot.
e. Ballots shall be provided by the secretary, bearing the names of candi-
dates and offices and plainly indicated spaces for vote by pencil mark.
Article VI.
finance and Bookkeeping
Section \. Debt. The governing board may not at any time incur a debt
beyond the amount of unappropriated moneys in the treasury, without the sup-
porting vote of the Chamber.
Section 2. Records. The secretary shall so keep the records of the cor-
poration as to show under classified headings the amounts received and ex-
pended in any month or year.
Section 3. Precedence of Claims. In the payment of claims against this
730 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
corporation, the order of honoring shall be first, wages ; second, rents ; third,
all other claims, age of claim to establish precedence unless other and stronger
considerations obtain.
Article VII.
Miscellaneous
Section I. Endorsement by Chamber. The name of the corporation shall
not be committed to the endorsement of any private or public enterprises with-
out a vote of the Chamber; and under no circumstances may the support of
the corporation be extended to any candidate for public ofifice.
Section 2. Publication of Affairs by the Chamber. No plan, purpose or
action of this Chamber, its board or its committees, may be given out for pub-
lication except through the secretary.
Section 3. Visitors. The courtesies of the Chamber shall be open to
any visitor or stranger, on application in his behalf by a member in good
standing to the secretary or president for a card of introduction.
Section 4. Contingencies. In the absence of provisions for any con-
tingency in this document, all meetings of the Chamber, board or committees
shall conduct their proceedings according to "Roberts' Rules of Order."
Section 5. Amendments. These by-laws may be amended by a two-thirds
vote of those present at any monthly meeting of the Chamber, provided, that
a written notice of the proposed amendment or amendments shall have been
mailed by the secretary to every member at least 9 days prior to the meeting
at which action is taken, and that a copy of the proposed amendment or amend-
ments shall have been posted at headquarters an e(|ual length of time. [End of
constitution.]
During these ten years the Chamber of Commerce has been the rallying
point for the promotion of enterprises looking to civic and commercial better-
ment in all their many forms. The rooms of the Chamber are in the base-
ment of the splendid Y. M. C. A. Building, and that fact, together with the
work of the Y. M. C. A. itself, makes that building one of the just causes of
pride to Ellensburg, the veritable brain of the community.
OFFICERS AND TRUSTEES
At this date the officers and trustees of the Chamber of Commerce are as
follows : F. A. Kern, president ; J. Kelleher, vice-president ; S. S. Nesbit, treas-
urer; Blanche Hofacker, acting secretary; trustees: A. L. Kreidel, E. H. Snow-
den, J. N. O. Thomson, A. L. B. Davies, J. C. Kaynor, J. N. Faust, A. E. Emer-
son, J. A. Whitfield, J. Kelleher.
KITTITAS COUNTY IX THE SP.\NISH-.\MERIC.\N W.\R
One event of peculiar interest in the history of Ellensburg, though not
strictly speaking coming under any one of the headings of this chapter, belongs
to the spirit of the chapter and we are therefore giving it a place here. We
refer to the "Home-Coming" of the Kittitas boys who participated in the Span-
ish-American War. The event touched the pride and patriotism of the people
more than anything up to that date.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 731
A full account of the Kittitas Company, its membership, and the welcome
home, derived largely from the "Capital" is given in the History of Central
Washington, and as this seems to be an accurate and well-written account,
nearly contemporary with the events, and deriving the major part directly from
the contemporary press of Ellensburg, we are incorporating it here.
"Great as was the excitement over the discoveries in the Klondyke, it was
almost lost sight of in the stirring events which took place the following year.
As soon as the news had reached Kittitas Valley that the United States had
taken up the cause of the struggling Cuban people and was resolved to punish
Spain for her inhumanity, the whole county was aroused to a sudden burst of
patriotic enthusiasm." The "Capital" of April 23, 1898, says: "The effect was
like a fire alarm and the throng was soon surging around the 'Capital' bulletin
window. In less time than it takes to tell it, flags and bunting were fluttering
in the air; patriotic excitement ran high, and for the rest of the afternoon
little besides the war prospect was discussed."
At the outbreak of hostilities Kittitas County had but one military organ-
ization. Company A, officered as follows: Captain, A. C. Steinman; first lieu-
tenant, S. C. Davidson; second lieutenant, E. E. Southern; sergeants, J. J.
Charlton, L. L. Seely, Robert Murray, Ralph Brown, W. O. McDowell, Holly
V. Hill; musician, Whit Church; corporals, C. A. Swift, Willis Gott, James
Shaw, G. M. Hunter, John Hoskins, J. J. Putnam; wagoner, Edwin Barker;
artificer, Charles P. Morgan.
The company offered its services to the governor, who promptly accepted
them, and early in the morning of the 30th of April, Captain Steinman received
orders to have his company ready to take the train for the west at ten-twenty-
five that evening. From Ellensburg the company proceeded to Camp Rogers
where it was mustered in, May 11th, as Company H, First Washington Vol-
unteers. Seventy-five of the company, including the officers, were taken from
Kittitas County; the remainder were recruited at Tacoma and Seattle from all
parts of the state. The personnel of this company was as follows:
Colonel, John H. WhoUey, commanding; major, John J. Weisenburger ;
major, W. J. Canton; captain, Alfred C. Steinman; first lieutenant, S. C. David-
son, who was honorably discharged and was succeeded by Edward E. Southern,
who in turn was succeeded by John J. Charlton, promoted December 9, 1898;
wounded in action April 11, 1899; second lieutenant, John J. Charlton, pro-
moted September 3, 1899; wounded in action April 13, 1899; sergeants: first,
Robert Murray; quartermaster, Luke L. Seely, Ralph Brown, William O.
McDowell, James Shaw, John R. Hoskins ; corporals, Caddy Morrison, Car-
stens H. Junge, George M. Burlingham, wounded April 20, 1899; John Brus-
tad, William M. Pearson, William George, George S. Smith, James A. Harris,
Burrel B. Wright, Charies H. Eiselstein, William Chambers, Charles Hagen-
son, Bert Gordanier (cook); artificer, Arthur E. Snyder; wagoner, William
Craig; privates, John A. Aim, Fred L. Ballou, wounded July 26, 1899; Edwin
Barker, George A. Clark, wounded by gun explosion July 27, 1899, John R.
Clark, James Cross, Clark E. Davis, Sidney O. Dickinson wounded March 7
and April 27, 1899, Alexander Eraser, Steven A. Griffin, Robert Hovey wounded
April 27, 1899. Philip W. Harner, William T. Hill. Ralph Hepler, Edward T.
732 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLF.Y
Johnson, Francis B. Jones, Thomas P. Kerwin, John Lundy, Arno H. Moeckcl
wounded February 5, 1899, Vanrancelar Martin, George C. McCarthy, Lee M.
Putman, Albert J. Paulist, Byars E. Romane, William F. Ritchey, Solomon
Russell wounded March 6, 1899; Arthur F. Ridge, William Ridley, Joseph
Vomacka, Thomas Williams, Robert C. Wenzel ; transferred privates : George
W. Fitzhenry, to Company B ; Martin Forrest, to hospital corps ; Paul Roberts,
to Tenth Pennsylvania, died ; Corporal George W. Hovey, wounded April 27,
1899, died April 28, 1899; privates, Albert J. Ruppert, killed February 22, 1899;
Joseph Eno, killed April 27, 1899; Clyde Z. Woods, wounded April 27, died
April 28, 1899; Sherman T. Shepard, wounded April 17. 1899, died June 18, 1899;
discharged on account of illness. First Lieutenant Samuel C. Davidson, Oct. 29,
1898 ; Second Lieutenant Joseph Smith, wounded February 5, 1899, resigned Sep-
tember 2, 1899: Sergeant Holly V. Hill, resigned to accept commission in the
Eleventh U. S. Cavalry; Sergeant Willis L. Gott, reenlisted ; corporals, George
M. Hunter, Robert Bruce, James J. Putnam, Charles A. Swift, William B.
Tucker, wounded February 22, 1899 ; Corporal Israel F. Costello, reenlisted ;
musicians, John L. Grandin and Louis G. Frenette, reenlisted; musician, Joseph
R. Whitchurch ; artificers, Charles A. Morgan and Stephen S. Blankenship :
privates, William H. Adkins, wounded June 5, 1899; William S. Bullock,
Frederick Bollman, reenlisted ; Henry H. Cassriel, Clinton H. Campbell, John
S. Ellis, Edward Friel, reenlisted; Otto N. Gustavson, reenlisted: Byron E.
Kersey, William E. Howard wounded April 27, 1899; William W. McCabe,
Emmett C. Mitchell, Roland D. McCombs, reenlisted; Fred Nelson, Abel Nils-
son, wounded April 27, 1899; Frank E. O'Harrow, Frank Rothlisberger,
Thomas Richardson, Arthur J. Stoddart, Victor E. Sigler, reenlisted ; Win-
ford E. Thorp, Harvey R. Van Alstine, William Ward, reenlisted; James W.
Walsh.
The company was organized as Company A, at Ellensburg, October, 1890.
They were mustered into the United States service as Company H, at Camp
Rogers, Washington, May 11, 1898; did garrison duty from that time until
October 28, 1898, when the company embarked on the United States Trans-
port "Ohio," arriving at Manila, November 26th. The company went ashore
November 30th, and did outpost duty until the outbreak of hostilities with the
Filipino insurgents. While in the Philippines they took part in the following
engagements: Engagements with the insurgents, 1899, around 2^Ianila ; at
Santa Ana, February 4th and 5th; Pateros, February 15th; San Pedro Macati,
February 17th ; Guadaloupe, February 19th-22d and March 13th in trenches at
San Pedro Macati, February 15th to March 13th; Taguig, March 18th; Bay
Lake, March 19th; Taguig, April 9th, 16th, 20th and 27th, May 19th and June
12th; Calamba, June 26th, 27th and 30th (expedition); a detachment of scouts
took part in an expedition to Santa Cruz, April 8th and in engagements at
Santa Cruz, April 9th and 10th; at Pagsanvan, April 11th; at Lamba, April
12th, and at Paete, April 13th. Detachments also took part in engagements at
Cainti, Tayti and Morong.
They embarked for San Francisco on the United States Transport ■"Penn-
sylvania." September 4, 1899. They sailed September 5th by way of Nagasaki,
the Inland Sea and Yokohama, arriving in San Francisco Bay, October 9tli.
LIBKAI;V, KI.I.KNSIU
MARYLAND HALL, ELLEXSBUl;
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 733
They were mustered out at the Presidio, California, November 1, 1899, after
almost a year and a half of service. On being mustered out, Colonel WhoUey
presented the company with the sights of the Krupp gun captured in the big
battle of February 5th.
jMeanwhile, all necessary preparations were being made for receiving the
returning soldiers at home with a formal welcome. The "Capital," September
2i, 1899, says :
"At a special mass meeting held Monday night, September 18th, the follow-
ing committee was appointed to act in conjunction with the Women's War So-
ciety in welcoming our soldier boys: J. B. Davidson, W. H. Talbott, Austin
Mires, E. H. Snowden and H. S. Elwood. The soldiers left Nagasaki, Japan,
September 16th and should arrive in San Francisco about October 8th. The
following sub-committees were appointed: Finance, G. E. Dickson, chairman;
program, J. B. Davidson, chairman ; decoration, S. P. Fogarty, chair-
man ; speaking, Ralph Kaufifman, chairman ; music, C. V. Warner, chairman ;
reception. Dr. J. W. Bean, chairman; print and press, A. H. Stulfauth, chair-
man ; house and hall, E. T. Barden ; banquet, Mrs. P. P. Gray, chairman ; hos-
pital and memorial, Rev. J. P. Smith, chairman; marshal of the day, J. E.
Frost."
A later issue of the "Capital," November 11th, gives this further informa-
tion about the arrival and reception of the returning soldiers :
"On a train of fourteen coaches. Company H, and other eastern Washing-
ton soldiers rolled into the depot at 5:50 Tuesday evening, the 7th. The time
of arrival had been spread broadcast and the result was that such a crowd as
gathered to welcome them has never before been seen in Ellensburg. It is
safe to say that between the depot and armory from 4,000 to 5,000 people were
lined up and scattered, each trying to outdo the other in noisy demonstration. It
was unfortunate that the train did not arrive in daylight as the demonstration
could have been seen and better appreciated by the soldiers; nevertheless it was
a magnificent affair and the reception was a success from every point of view.
"The public and private decorations were beautiful and the soldiers passed
many compliments on the display. The evergreen arch on Fourth and Pearl
was a beautiful structure, both by day and night, and was a handsome tribute
to the good taste and industry of the decoration committee. The business men
vied with each other in beautifying their windows and the result was creditable
to all.
"All the efforts above referred to were good — above criticism, but to the
women of Ellensburg and Kittitas Valley working under the direction of the
Women's Aid Society, must the greatest credit be given. When the troops left
the train Marshal Frost quickly formed the parade an dthe march to the arm-
or)', with the volunteers in the place of honor, began. Besides the returning
soldiers there were several companies of militia and cadets, making in all
about 300 men who were to partake of the ladies' hospitality. On reaching the
armory, the volunteers, amid the playing of bands and a gorgeous display of
fireworks, were admitted to the banquet hall; after them the militia and cadets
went in.
"The sight that met their gaze as they entered the vast hall was a beautiful
734 HISTORY OF YAKLAIA VALLEY
one. The long tables beautifully decorated and loaded with the choicest deli-
cacies, presented an inviting appearance under the brilliant electric lights and
without a moment's confusion the soldiers were seated by companies and were
soon enjoying the good things prepared for them. After they had been seated,
the crowd was admitted and soon filled every inch of standing room. Large
delegations were in town from Cle Elum and Roslyn and the band from the
latter place contributed no small amount to the enjoyment of the occasion."
Valuable as were the events of that demonstration of twenty years ago
following the Spanish-American War, the issues \vere as nothing compared
with the solemn and stupendous issues of the World War just closed while
these pages are in preparation. For in it the very destiny of the world
hung in the balance, and in the maintenance of our country's part every village
and hamlet, almost every farm, bore some share.
It is not yet possible to give complete records of Kittitas County, but we
preserve here some general summaries as follows : Total number of names as
given in the files of the "Record" over 1,000, of which 449 were found in the
draft rolls ; about 50 officers ; number killed and missing, 25 : volunteer troop
of cavalry, Troop A, consisting of 110 men, Captain Sands in command, and he
was especially recommended for bravery in action.
Incomplete as the record available yet is, it is well known that the Kittitas
men bore a noble part, with their brothers of the nation in helping save the
world from the curse of Hundom.
CITY LIBRARY OF ELLENSBURG.
An institution of much interest in connection with the intellectual develop-
ment of the town and country around is the library. For a comparatively small
library this is remarkably well-selected and administered, and to an unusual
degree has become a practical force, especially among the boys and girls in the
way of stimulating ambition and industry in the direction of genuine culture.
Certain general facts in the history of this important institution may well tind
a place here.
It was built during the year 1909, by W. O. Ames, contractor. There was
appropriated for it $10,000 by Andrew Carnegie; $1,500 subscriptions from citi-
zens of Ellensburg; $3,000 by City Council of Ellensburg. The first board of
trustees was J. H. Alorgan, J. C. Hubbell and Mrs. David Murra\, up to com-
pletion of building and opening of library. Mrs. Murray resigned and Rev.
J. H. Sweens, Mrs. F. A. Home and Airs. H. Hale were appointed. The
present board of trustees is C. H. Flummerfelt, J. H. Morgan, Rev. W. B.
Young, Mrs. David Murray and Mrs. J. P. Munson.
The value of the building is from $12,000 to $14,000: the furniture is valued
at $500.00 ; the books are valued at about $8,000.00.
There are 8,000, books. The library was first opened for visitors on Janu-
ary 10, 1910, with the request that each visitor bring a book. 300 volumes were
taken in that evening. The furniture was located and books placed on shelves
and library opened for loaning February 1, 1910.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 735
First librarian was Mrs. J. B. Davidson, who acted for seven years until
February 19, 1918. The present librarian is Mrs. H. L. Stowell.
It is fitting that the tribute made to Mrs. Davidson by the Library Trustees
at the expiration of her long period of service be recorded here. As found in
the records of the city office this recognition of her work is as fololws:
Mrs. Davidson during her administration maintained a very high standard
of efficiency. Full of energy and an indefatigable worker, she accumulated a
vast quantity of magazines and historical material — material that will be invalu-
able in the years to come. One room in the basement is filled with old files
of Century, Harper and other standard magazines awaiting the time when there
will be a fund appropriated for their binding.
There is also a very complete collection of the newspapers of Ellensburg,
from which may be gathered vitally important historical data.
During Mrs. Davidson's administration over 8,000 books were collected
and some rare volumes were added.
The City Council and the Board of Trustees expressed their regret at the
resignation of Mrs. Davidson from the position after seven years of faithful
service
PART III
CHAPTER V
POLITICAL HISTORY AND DEVELOPMENT OF BENTON COUNTY
EARLIEST SETTLERS — BENTON COUNTY A NATURAL UNIT AGITATION FOR NEW
COUNTY AN ACT TO CREATE THE COUNTY OF EENTON BENTON COUNTY AN
ACTUAL FACT — BENTON COUNTY GETTING READY BENTON COUNTY — THE
RAILROAD COMMISSION — BENTON COUNTY DOING BUSINESS OFFICERS' BONDS
FILED COUNTY NEWS NOTES — RECORD OF ELECTIONS ELECTION OF 1912
ELECTION OF 1914 ELECTION OF 1916 ELECTION OF 1918 COUNTY SEAT
QUESTION — SCHOOLS OF THE COUNTY — TEACHERS OF BENTON COUNTY.
We have given in another chapter a view of the beginnings throughout the
valley, including that part which later became Benton County. For the sake of
brevity we are repeating briefly the essentials of that part of the history, and
giving added details.
As stated in the chapter referred to the first coiners into tlie Yalcima \'alley
followed hard upon the close of the Indian wars. The closing campaigns of
the series of wars of the decade of the fifties were those of Wright in the
Spokane country and Garriett in the Yakima in 1858. In the next year a group
of cattlemen began to drive stock into the middle Yakima \'alley. Among these
men were some of the chief makers of Yakima ; Ben Snipes, the Aliens, the
Murphys, Nelson, Connell, Henderson and Jefifrey. In 1861 and immediately
following, the first settlements were made in the Moxee by the Thorps, the
Hensons, the Splawns and a rapidly increasing number of immigrants, of whom
an enumeration has been given.
EARLIEST SETTLERS.
We derive from the valuable book by A. J. Splawn, "Kamiakin, the Last
Hero of the Yakimas," information as to those who, in those earliest days located
in the lower valley. Apparently J. B. Nelson was the first to locate in the limits
of the present Benton County. Even his location was temporary. In 1864
some of his horses had been run oft' by thieves and in his endeavors to locate
the scattered bands he with his family became established for a year at the
mouth of the Yakima. Subsequently he moved to a place on the river between
the later Mabton and Sunnyside, afterwards the Jock Morgan ranch. Still later
the Nelsons made their permanent home near Yakima on the Naches. Various
old-timers seem to have been on the borders during that early date, whose
permanent liomes were later in Yakima. Among others was Col. H. D. Cock,
conspicuous in the Indian wars and later the first marshal of Yakima. He was
active through wliat is now the North Prosser and Grandview regions and in
1867 and a little later established the first ferr}' across the Yakima below what
is now the Mabton road.
736
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 77,7
But apparently the first permanent settler on the lower Yakima was Smith
Barnum. His place was on the bottom on the south side of the river, in part
the place now owned by J. B. Clements. In 1875 the Barnum place was made
a station on the first mail route from Yakima to Wallula and thence to Umatilla.
During the early seventies a number of locations, at first entirely for stock
raising, were made on the Yakima between The Horn and the mouth of the
river. Among those early families were the McNeills, the Souths, the Mc-
Alpines, Doctor Cantonwine, Joe Baxter, Lockwood, Ben Rosencrantz, Jack
Roberts, B. S. Grosscup, the Robinsons and a number of cowboys, whose tenure
was so short that their names seem not preserved. The place occupied by the
Souths, now the home of Mr. S. Foot, is said to be the first in that region. Amy
South became Mrs. A. G. McNeill, and is known to every one in Prosser as one
of the best informed on early history of all that section. Her father's family
located in that section in 1871. Ben Rosencrantz, now living at Pasco, though
not quite so early in time as some of those named, became the most of all a
permanent resident in what became later the Richland section.
He went in 1879, locating at first on the former Smith Barnum place and a
short time later moving across the Yakima River. There he located a pre-
emption, a homestead and a desert entry, and later acquired three sections of
Northern Pacific R. R. land at half a dollar an acre. He could have got 16
sections at the same price, but did not consider them worth it.
His nearest neighbors were Robinson at the mouth of the Yakima and Bax-
ter about six miles up the river. He tells us that in 1880 he got a gang-plow
of Bill Jones of Walla Walla for $450, with which he broke up 80 acres of land
at Badger Springs below Kiona. During that period Levi Ankeny was a fre-
quent visitor on hunting and fishing trips. He pointed out to Mr. Rosencrantz
what he regarded a good town site. Later the place was laid out by Howard
Amon and became Richland, deriving its nam.e from Nelson Rich, who had
become associated with Mr. Amon in the irrigation enterprise of the Benton
Land and Water Company. Of those early irrigation enterprises we have
spoken at length in the chapter on Irrigation.
Settlements in the vicinity of Prosser, although it became the county seat
and the largest town, were later in time than those on the lower section of the
river.
We shall speak of the first settlers under the heading of the city of Prosser.
It may suffice to note here that the first comers to that location of Prosser Falls
were Col. W. F. Prosser, Joe Kinney and A. M. Ward. They located at that
point in the early eighties. The Warneckes came only a little later.
The same general statement may be made in regard to Kennewick. C. J.
Beach made the first filing on Government land in that vicinity. Doctor Livingston
built the first house, and Joe Dimond was the first in business. Of Kennewick,
too, we shall speak at length, and need not use further space here. Most of the
pioneer history of what may be termed the permanent Benton County, follow-
ing the cowboy days, is connected with irrigation, and of that we have written at
length in an earlier chapter. During the decade of the nineties and onward
two great wheat farming sections have developed. These are the Horse Heaven
and the Rattlesnake Mountain sections. Both these regions have scant rain-
(47)
738 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
fall, though more than the valley. The soil is of the finest, and in the native
state both regions were perfect seas of the finest bunch-grass. It is needless to
say that the stockmen found a paradise in those two vast areas. The former
has nearly as much land available as the entire Yakima Valley; that is, about
half a million acres. This great plateau ofifers so inviting a field for irrigation
that much attention has been devoted to investigation with a view to a water
supply.
It has been proposed to impound the chief sources of the Klickitat River at
the base of Mount Adams, fed by never-failing glaciers, and convey a ditch
along the crest of the Simcoe Ridge, whence laterals could be constructed reach-
ing the Columbia River on the south and the Yakima on the north. The region
around Cleveland, Bickleton and other little places in Klickitat County as well
as the section eastward in Benton is a gently rolling plateau, and under water it
would duplicate the Yakima country itself for beauty and productiveness. The
question of water supply, however, is a serious one, and Government engineers
doubt whether the proposed reservoirs will be adequate to the immense demands
of half a million acres. Meanwhile the Horse Heaven Irrigation District has
been formed and the farmers and stock-raisers of that region will be all ready
to utilize the water if a way can be found to convey it to them.
The Rattlesnake region is not as large as the Horse Heaven, but it has the
advantage of lower altitude for a large part of its area. The soil is equally good
and a number of enterprising wheat farmers have reaped sufficient products to
give their section a standing as one of the regular grain supply points of the
state. But the great feature of the Rattlesnake region is that large areas are
accessible to the Sunnyside extension of the High Line Canal. Probably nearly
200,000 acres will ultimately become irrigated, and the wonders of Yakima and
other old irrigation sections will be repeated in the former stockman's paradise.
Another unique feature of this remarkable section is the natural gas in the
Rattlesnake plateau about twenty-five miles north of Prosser and an equal dis-
tance west of Richland.
It had been known twenty or more years ago to stockmen that there was
gas sufficient to furnish light and warmth for the winter days which occasionally
visited that ordinarily balmy section. In fact the gas burned there for years
unheeded except by cowboys in their winter range. Within a few years pro-
moters have organized a company for getting this great possibility before the
investing world. It is as yet too soon to forecast developments, but there is
every reason to anticipate that the next historian of Benton County will chronicle
a great manufacturing center supplied from these subterranean resources of
heat, power and light.
There is still another area of Benton County, not belonging strictly to the
Yakima Valley at all. This is the southern section bordering the Columbia
River. This section is arid and semi-tropical in climate, but has the same vol-
canic soil, capable of anything with water.
There are several little stations, as Mottinger, Plymouth,-Paterson, Carley,
Luzon, on the Spokane, Portland, and Seattle R. R., at which beginnings have
been made in the production of fruit and alfalfa.
The two remarkable features of this river section are the artesian well near
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 739
Luzon and Blalock Island in the Columbia, the latter commemorating the name
of Dr. X. G. Blalock of Walla Walla, one of the noblest and most revered of
all the builders of the State. With the developments sure to come, this section
will some day be one of the garden spots of the world.
In giving these views of the county we have digressed a little from the
story of settlement. It may be said, however, that the development in all these
sections was initiated before the creation of the county. We see, moreover,
from this general picture the fact that there was abundant need of a new county
in the vast area still left to Yakima after the early excision by which Kittitas
was removed.
BENTON COUNTY A NATURAL UNIT.
Furthermore the area upon which Benton County was erected is a natural
unit. It is, too, not surpassed by any county in the state in the percentage of
land which may be utilized. \\'ith the exception of the bluffs along the Columbia
River on the south and the lofty ridges of the Rattlesnake Mountains, it is
entirely cultivable land and under water will sometime become a veritable garden
of delights, one of the choice home lands of the continent.
With all the natural conditions and their possible developments which the
eastern half of Yakima County afforded, it is not surprising that the inhabitants
felt a growing desire for a separate organization.
In 1901 Nelson Rich, one of the best builders in the lower valley, still at this
writing living in Prosser, was in the legislature for Yakima County. Supported
by the sentiment of his part of the county he initiated measures looking to a new
county.
The proposal contemplated a county to be known as Riverside, taking the
region east of a line running north and south three miles west of Mabton.
Correspondence from Olympia to the "Yakima Herald" denotes that Mr. Rich
met with considerable opposition. Remonstrances poured in. It was pointed
out that the new county would have to assume indebtedness of $66,000 and erect
new buildings worth $100,000, thus being heavily handicapped with debt at a
time when they were in no condition for burdens. Klickitat County also opposed
the proposal, not wishing to lose the Horse Heaven country. The bill introduced
by Mr. Rich never came to a vote, and everything waited for a new advance.
AGITATION FOR NEW COUNTY.
In 1903 the agitation for a new county was renewed. On July 30th a mass
meeting at Rich's Hall in Prosser formulated a plan for a county with boundaries
diminished from those of the fonner demand. Still another meeting was held at
Prosser on December 18th, by vote of which a bill was prepared for introduc-
tion at the forthcoming meeting of the legislature, embodying the demands of the
former meeting. This bill was duly presented by S. A. Wells on behalf of the
committee of the lower house on county organization. It provided that the new
county should be known as McKinley County. The lines proposed in the bill
were not acceptable to the Sunnyside people. The western boundary was only
three miles east of Zillah and the effect would have been to bisect the Sunny-
side country. The people there desired to be all in or all out of the new county.
The bill therefore was defeated.
The "Columbia Courier", of Kennewick, of August 1, 1902, expressed
740 HISTORY OF YAKOIA VALLEY
undoubtedly a sentiment which had much to do with the spirit leading to the
defeat at that time of the division movement. The "Courier" says : "The ghost
of Yakima's historic past will sometime haunt the men who clamor to divide
for selfish ends. Fifty miles from Prosser to North Yakima is no greater dis-
tance than 50 miles would be from the country southeast of Kennewick to the
prospective county seat at Prosser. This is no time to increase an already heavy
tax by the creation of a new county seat, with half a score or more of hungr}'
offices. Sunnyside business men and leading citizens, twenty-seven in all, were
interviewed on division last week. More than twenty of them were positive
in their declarations against division now.
"The Kennewick country will poll almost a unanimous vote against division
if it gets a good chance.
"Yakima County will not be divided — this time."
"Pea" Greene renews the attack on division in the ver\- next number, end-
ing with the assertion, "as a matter of fact there are but two or three precincts
that are mixed up in the affair at all, and when it comes to a vote, the thing will
undergo an interment of considerable depth."
It is somewhat obvious from still another squib in the "Courier" that the
division proposition was regarded as a Prosser move. For Brother Greene says :
"Prosser people are in terrible misery because a few of the remote inhabitants
of the county are compelled occasionally to go a considerable distance to the
county seat. Some of these remote people that I've talked with on the subject
say that they would prefer to go quite a distance for the sake of going some-
where when they do go."
After the failure in the legislature of 1903, the advocates of division rested
on their oars for a time. There was a rapid development in 1903 and 1904 in
all parts of the lower Valley. Opposition in and around Kennewick seems
to have declined. Moreover, on March 3, 1903, C. O. Anderson succeeded E. P.
Greene as editor and proprietor of the "Columbia Courier". The new manager
was not so contentious as the old one, and seems to have devoted himself to
consistently striving to build up the local interest with harmony and good feel-
ing to his journalistic brethren of adjoining towns. Mr. Anderson was suc-
ceeded in turn on August 4, 1904, by W. J. Shaughnessey. He in like manner
followed an amicable course, devoting his energies mainly to local upbuilding.
In the files of the "Courier" in 1903 and 1904 we find hardly a reference
to county division. The Kennewick people meanwhile had become intei'ested in
establishing a city government of their own, which was done on February 5,
1904.
The result of the combined conditions, internal and external, was that in
the legislature of 1905, with no great contention, the act creating the new co" ity
of Benton was duly passed.
The leading objection formerly held against the proposal was obviatei. -
running an exact north and south line far enough east to leave the whole Sunnv-
side country in the old county. Such division gave the new comity a scanty
population, not more than one-fifth that remaining in Yakima County. But
with every assurance of rapid development the inhabitants of the new Benton
County faced the future in 1905 with high hopes. It is worthy of note that
HISTORY OF YAKBIA VALLEY 741
the division left Yakima County with just about half its area in the Indian
Reservation. It is the half, too, containing far the larger ratio of arable land.
This condition is offset in a degree by the fact that the Government regulations
permit creation of townsites and renting of Indian lands. By reason of this,
and of the great Wapato irrigation system, there has been great development
in that part of Yakima County.
The separation of the former vast area of Yakima County into two natural
divisions is doubtless regarded now by the people of both as in the line of
progress.
The Act creating Benton County is incorporated herewith:
An act to create the county of Benton, subject to the requirements of the
state constitution and statutes in respect to the establishment of new counties.
BE IT ENACTED BY THE LEGISLATURE OF THE STATE OF WASHINGTON :
Section 1. All those portions of the counties of Yakima and Klickitat
described as follows, lo-wit: Beginning at the point of intersection of the
middle of the main channel of the Columbia River with the township line between
township thirteen north, range twenty-three east, and township thirteen north,
range twenty-four east, Willamette Meridian : thence running south along the
township lines, being the line between range twenty-three east and range twenty-
four east, to the line between Yakima County and Klickitat County ; thence south
along the township lines, along the line between ranges twenty-three east and
twenty-four east, to the point of intersection with the middle of the main channel
of the Columbia River, or to its intersection with the lines between the states
of Washington and Oregon; thence northeasterly, northerly and northwesterly
and westerly along the middle of the main channel of the Columbia River and
up said stream, following the line between Klickitat County and the state of
Oregon and the county of Walla Walla and the line between Yakima County
and Walla Walla County. Franklin County, and Douglas County, to the place
of beginning — shall be and hereby is created and established as the county of
Benton ; Provided, however, That said Benton County is hereby created as afore-
said, subject to the requirements of the constitution of the state of Washington
in respect to the establishment of new counties, and subject to an ascertainment
of the fact of such compliance as hereinafter provided, and that the creation
of said Benton County hereby shall not become operative to establish said
county until such compliance shall have been so had and the fact of such com-
pliance so ascertained.
Sec. 2. At any time within three months after this act shall take effect, any
qualified voter living in any portion of Yakima or Klickitat counties embraced
within the boundaries of Benton County as hereinbefore defined, may present to
the governor in substance, that the signers of such petition are a majority of the
voters living in the portions of Klickitat and Yakima counties embraced within
the boundaries of Benton County as defined within this act, and praying that in
case it shall be found that the constitutional provisions relating to the creation
of new counties have been complied with, the county of Benton shall be deemed
fully established : Provided, That said petition shall be accompanied bv a good
and sufficient bond to the superior judge to whom said petition shall be trans-
mitted by the governor to be approved by said superior judge, in the sum of
742 HISTORY OF YAKOIA VALLEY
$1,000.00 to cover costs of proceedings under this act, and in case the said county
shall not be established.
Sec. 3. The governor shall forthwith transmit said petition to the superior
judge of Yakima County and the said superior judge shall within thirty days
thereafter examine said petition and ascertain whether said petition bears the
signatures of persons living within the territory of Benton County and entitled
to vote therein, in number equal to a majority of the votes cast by voters living
within said territory at the last preceding general election, as nearly as the
number of such voters voting at such preceding election can be ascertained ;
if the judge finds the petition sufficiently signed, then the said judge shall ascei-
tain to his satisfaction, upon evidence received in open court, that the striking
therefrom of the territory proposed to be set over into Benton County will not
reduce the remaining population of said Yakima County or Klickitat County or
either of them respectively to a population of less than four thousand, and that
such territory so proposed to be set over contains a population of two thousand
or more: Provided, however, That the judge may in his discretion appoint an
elector or electors who shall be a freeholder, residing within the territory of
Benton County, to take a special enumeration of the population of the counties
of Yakima and Klickitat or of any part thereof which he may desire so that it
will show separately the number of the population living in such portion thereof
within the boundaries of Benton County, and living in the rest of said counties
of Yakima and Klickitat. It shall be the duty of the person or persons so
appointed to qualify by filing with such court an oath that he will take such
enumeration truly and impartially, and therefrom he or they shall take such
enumeration and return the same verified by his affidavit to the effect that he
believes the same to be a true and correct enumeration of such county, or as ihe
case may be, of the portions of such county as to which the same relates, in such
court, and to file the same in such court within one month after such enumeration
has been completed.
Sec. 4. If it shall be shown to the satisfaction of such judge of the superior
court of Yakima County that there are two thousand or more inhabitants, within
the boundaries herein set forth for the county of Benton, and that there shall
remain four thousand or more inhabitants in the remaining portion of Yakima
and Klickitat counties respectively, thereupon he shall make a decree setting
forth the fact that the provisions of the constitution of the state of Washington
have been complied with. Upon the filing of such decree it shall be the duty
of the clerk of such court to make and transmit to the board of county com-
missioners of Yakima and Klickitat counties respectively, a certified copy thereof,
and also a certified copy thereof to the governor of the state, and to the secretary
of state.
Sec. 5. Immediately upon receipt of said certified copy of the tlecree of the
superior court of Yakima County, the governor shall make a proclamation
declaring the county of Benton fully established.
Sec. 6. The county of Benton shall assume and pay to the counties of
Yakima and Klickitat respectively, its proportion of the bonded and warrant
indebtedness of each of said counties respectively, in the proportions that
assessed valuation of that part of Benton County lying within the present
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 743
boundaries of Yakima and Klickitat counties respectively, bears to tbe assess-
ed valuation of the whole of Yakima and Klickitat counties respectively. The
adjustment of said indebtedness shall be based upon the assessment for the year
1904 : Provided, That in the accounting between the said counties neither county
shall be charged with any debt or liability incurred in the purchase of any county
property or the purchase of any county building which shall fall within and be
retained by the other county.
Sec. 7. The county seat of said Benton County is hereby located at the
town of Prosser, and shall there remain until the same shall be removed in ac-
cordance with the provisions of law.
Sec. 8. Until otherwise classified said county of Benton is hereby desig-
nated as belonging to the twenty-second class.
Sec. 9. Carl A. Jenson, W. P. Simms and J. W. Carey, all being residents
within the herein proposed county of Benton, shall be the first board of county
commissioners of said Benton County, and they shall hold office until the second
Monday in January, 1907, and until their successors are elected and qualified,
and shall meet at the county seat of said Benton County within thirty days from
the date of the governor's said proclamation, as hereinbefore provided, and shall
qualify as such county commissioners by filing their oath of ofiice with the
judge of the superior court, -who shall approve their bond in the manner pro-
vided by law ; Provided, however, That if any of the above-named commission-
ers shall fail to qualify within the time specified, then the governor shall appoint
a bona fide resident and qualified elector of said Benton County to fill the
vacancy.
Sec. 10. Such commissioners shall divide their county into precincts,
townships and districts, as provided for by the law then existing, making only
such changes as are rendered necessary by the altered condition of the bounda-
ries occasioned by the segregation from the original counties.
Sec. 11. In all townships, precincts, school and road districts which retain
their old boundaries, the ofificers thereof shall retain their respective offices in
and for such new county until their respective terms of office expire, or until
their successors are elected and qualified, and shall give bonds to Benton County
of the same amount and in the same manner as had previously been given to
the original county.
Sec. 12. Except as provided in the preceding section such commissioners
shall be authorized and required to appoint all of the county officers of the
county organized under the provisions of this act and of which they are com-
missioners, and the officers thus appointed shall commence to hold their office
immediately upon their appointment and qualification according to law and
shall hold their offices until the second Monday of January, 1907, or until their
successors are elected and qualified.
Sec. 13. Until otherwise provided by law, said Benton County shall be
and hereby is attached to the district composed of Yakima, Kittitas and Frank-
lin counties, for judicial purposes.
Sec. 14. The board of county commissioners at a regular meeting held
within one year from the time when they shall qualify as commissioners of the
county of Benton, by an order duly entered in the minutes of their proceedings.
744 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
shall divide Benton County into three commissioners' districts in the manner
provided by law, and shall designate the boundaries thereof, and at the next
general election in said county there shall be elected three commissioners, one
from each of said districts ; the commissioner for district number one to be
elected for four years and the commissioners for districts two and three for two
years.
Sec. 15. For the purpose of representation in the legislature until other-
wise provided by law, the county of Benton shall be included in the fifteenth
senatorial district and shall constitute the fifty-eighth representative district,
and be entitled to one representative.
Sec. 16. L-ntil the county of Benton is organized by the appointment and
qualification of its officers, the jurisdiction of the present officers of Yakima and
Klickitat counties respectively, shall remain in full force and efifect in those
portions of the territory constituting the said county of Benton, lying within the
boundaries of said Yakima and Klickitat counties respectively.
Sec. 17. Within such time as they shall be transcribed after the gover-
nor's proclamation, as hereinbefore provided, the county auditors of Yakima
and Klickitat counties, respectively,, shall certify from the records of said
counties respectively all records and all papers and documents on file in any
wise aiTecting the title to any estate or property, real or personal, situated with-
in the county of Benton, and the county commissioners of Benton County shall
provide, at the expense of the county, proper and suitable record books to which
such records shall be so transcribed and shall transcribe said records as herein-
after provided, in legible writing, and said record books and papers shall be
delivered to the auditor of Benton County, and said records and documents so
transcribed shall be accepted and received as evidence in all courts and places
as if the same had been originally recorded or filed in the office of the auditor
of Benton County.
Sec. 18. All actions and proceedings which shall be pending in the su-
perior courts of Yakima and Klickitat counties at the time of the governor's
proclamation hereinbefore referred to, affecting the title or possession of real
estate in Benton County, or in which one or all the parties are residents of Ben-
ton County, and all further proceedings had therein shall be in Benton County,
the same as if originally commenced in that county. .\11 other proceedings,
civil or criminal, now pending in the superior courts of Yakima and Klickitat
counties shall be prosecuted to termination thereof in the superior courts of
Yakima and Klickitat counties respectively.
Sec. 19. All pleadings, processes, do'cuments and files, in the offices of the
county clerks of Yakima and Klickitat counties affecting pending suits and pro-
ceedings to be transferred as provided in the preceding section of this act, shall
be transferred and all records therein transcribed as hereinafter provided and
certified by the county clerks of Yakima and Klickitat counties respectively, and
transmitted to the county clerk of Benton County, after said clerk shall have
entered upon the duties of said office.
Sec. 20. All records, papers and documents of record or on file in the
office of the county clerks, county auditors and all other officers of Yakima and
Klickitat counties respectively, in anywise affecting the title or possession of real
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 745
estate or other property in Benton County, and required to be transcribed shall
be transcribed and transmitted to the county clerk, county auditor or other
officer of Benton County by such person or persons as may be employed by
the county of Benton for such purpose under the certificates of the county
clerks, county auditors and other officers of Yakima and Klickitat counties re-
spectively, and said records and documents when so transcribed and trans-
ferred, shall be received as evidence in all courts and places as if originally
recorded or filed, as the case may be, in the county of Benton.
Sec. 21. All records of Yakima and Klickitat counties required by this
act to be transcribed shall be transcribed by a person or persons to be employed
by the board of county commissioners of Benton County, as follows, to-wit :
Said transcribing shall be done by a person or persoiis under contract who shall
receive said contract after bids for said work shall have been advertised and the
contract given to the best bidder ; all records so transcribed shall be certified
by the officer of the respective office from which said record shall be tran-
scribed, under the seal of his office, in the manner following, to-wit: Each book
of transcribed records shall be certified to be a correct transcript of the records
of Yakima or Klickitat counties, as the case may be, contained therein, describ-
ing in the certificate the office in Yakima or Klickitat County from which the
same are transcribed and each officer so certifying shall finally certify to the
completeness of all records so transcribed from his office.
Passed the senate, February 20, 1905.
Passed the house, March 1, 1905.
Approved by the governor, March 8, 1905.
In the "Prosser Falls Bulletin" of June 22, 1905, we find the following
account of the initiation of countyhood ; followed by editorial comment, together
with an account of the initiation of the county business:
BENTON COUNTY AN .\CTUAL FACT
Benton County, according to a proclamation issued by Governor Mead last
Saturday, June 17th, is "fully and completely created and established." The
proclamation reached here Sunday, being sent to F. H. Gloyd, who carried the
petition to the governor, and was framed and placed on exhibition Monday in
one of the windows of the Prosser State Bank. The proclamation, it was ex-
pected, would provide for the new county to begin business July 1st, the be-
ginning of the fiscal year, and has caught the county commissioners unawares.
The courthouse quarters are not ready for the officers, none of them had pre-
pared their bonds, there is no jail, books or other supplies, all of which would
have been provided for by the first of the month. Some tall hustling is now
being made, however, to get Benton County ready for business and the com-
missioners will no doubt be equal to the emergency.
The issuance of the governor's proclamation is the result of the action of
Judge Rigg's court last Friday. As stated in "The Bulletin'' last week, a com-
mittee consisting of F. H. Gloyd, P. E. Harris, A. G. McNeill, M. W. Smith,
Dr. D. M. Angus, E. L. Boardman and C. W. Mauer of Lone Spring, went to
North Yakima to furnish testimony as to the population of Benton County and
746 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
the genuineness of the signatures on the petitions praying for its creation. At-
torney Ira P. Englehart appeared in court to represent the new county and it
took only twenty-five minutes for Judge Rigg to hear the testimony and issue
a decree stating that the constitution and the law with reference to the esab-
lishment of new counties had been fully complied with. This decree was for-
warded to Governor ]Mead, who issued the following proclamation:
COVER XOR's proclamation
"Whereas, heretofore, on the 9th day of June, A. D., 1905, a petition was
duly presented to the undersigned praying for the creation of the county of
Benton in the state of Washington, subject to the requirements of state consti-
tution and statutes in respect to the establishment of new counties, said peti-
tion then and there reciting- that the names appended thereto constitute a
majority of the \oters residing in the certain portions of the counties of Klicki-
tat and Yakima embraced within the boundaries of the county of Benton as the
same are fixed by an act of the legislature of the state of Washington approved
March 8, 1905, and,
"Whereas, Said petition was thereafter duly and regularly transmitted to
the Hon. H. B. Rigg, judge of the superior court of the state of Washington
in and for the county of Yakima, to the end that said court should ascertain
if the provisions of the constitution of the state of Washington had been com-
plied with ; and,
"Whereas, On the 17th day of June, A. D., 1905, there was presented to
the undersigned a certified copy of a decree of said superior court of Yakima
County to the ettect that said court had duly and regularly determined and
found that the requirements of the constitution and statutes of the state of
Washington in respect to the establishment of new counties had been fully com-
plied with in the matter of the creation and establishment of Benton County;
"Therefore, I, Albert E. ^lead, governor of the state of Washington, by
virtue of the aiUhority in me vested and of the said proceedings had in said
superior court, and under and in conformity with the constitution of the state
of Washington and the laws thereof, do hereby proclaim and declare the county
of Benton, as described by act of the legislature of the state of Washington,
entitled 'An act to create the county of Benton, subject to the requirements of
the state constitution and statutes in respect to the establishment of new
counties,' approved March 8, 1905, fully and completely created and established.
"In witness whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and caused the seal of
the state to be suffixed this 17th day of June, A. D., 1905.
[seal] "Albert E. Mead, Governor.
"J. Thomas Hickev, Sec'y of State."
BENTON COUNTY GETTING READY
The county commissioners of Benton County will meet tomorrow, Friday
morning, with County Attorney-elect Anderson present, make out their bonds,
take the oath of office before a notary public and forward bonds to Judge Rigg
of the Superior Court at North Yakima for approval. Each bond is in the sum
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 747
of $5,000. The commissioners, at tomorrow's meeting, will probably arrange
to purchase steel cells for the jail and material for the vault, as well as fur-
niture for the county offices. The board will hold its first regular meeting on
Saturday,. July 1st, when the new county will be ready for business. At that
meeting they will appoint the county officers, all of whom can be sworn in by
any person authorized to administer an oath, except J. D. Marsh, clerk of the
Superior Court. He must take the oath of office before Judge Rigg. Between
now and the first of the month the commissioners will have the Riverside Hotel
fixed up for courthouse quarters, work on which is now proceeding under di-
rection of Commissioner Carl A. Jenson.
At North Yakima last Monday morning. County Attorney Ira M. Krutz
instructed the county officers to file no papers or transact any business from
the territory comprising Benton County, which he had no legal right to do and
which is liable to cause some confusion. It is also liable to involve Yakima
County for damages if it should decline to transact business for residents of
Benton County between now and July 1st in which any financial liability is
involved. This matter is fully covered by Section 16 of the bill creating Benton
County which reads as follows:
"Until the county of Benton is organized by the appointment and qualifica-
tion of its officers, the jurisdiction of the present officers of Yakima and Ivlick-
itat counties respectively, shall remain in full force and effect in those portions
of the said Benton County lying within the boundaries of said Yakima and
Klickitat counties respectively."
The commissioners of Benton County expected the governor's proclama-
tion to provide for its establishment June 17th. The section quoted above,
however, fully covers the question and is the only law on the subject. Certainly
the officers of this county can transact no business until they have qualified and
their bonds are approved and until this is done Yakima and Klickitat counties
must take care of the business. ^
Commissioners Jenson and Carey have informally tendered the position of
auditor to F. H. Gloyd of this city, who will probably accept, as he is about to
retire from the Prosser State Bank, as noted elsewhere in this issue. He was
formerly auditor of Pierce County, worked around the court-house in Tacoma
for years and no person better qualified for the position could be selected. The
county convention declared that this office should go to A. H. Potter of Kenne-
wick, who would have been appointed, but he recently forwarded his declina-
tion to the commissioners. Previous to Mr. Potter being nominated, Kenne-
wick asked for the appointment of Mr. Brown, but withdrew his name in favor
of Mr. Potter. Under these circumstances the commissioners feel that Kenne-
wick, which was also given the county attorney, has received all the considera-
tion to which she is entitled.
All the other county officers selected by the convention will be appointed
on the first of July and they should be here on that day with their bonds, pre-
pared to qualify. Sherift' McNeill and Assessor Van Horn have declared their
intention of furnishing surety bonds and some of the other officers, probably,
will do the same.
748 HISTORY OF YAKBIA VALLEY
BENTON' COUNTY
At last, alter years of waiting, after bitter tights, harsh words and the en-
gendering of poHtical and personal animosities, the people of this portion of \
the Yakima Valley, who honestly Ijelieved they were entitled to self-govern- j
ment, have a county of their own ; they are now ready to try their hands at \
regulating their affairs. Fortunately, the creation of the county has finally been j
accomplished without a continuation of the bitter feeling that marked the two {
previous contests. Yakima County, which surrenders most of the territory i
comprising Benton, has done so cheerfully, wishes it well in all things and the I
people of the two counties part as friends. This is a good beginning, because ;
the interests of the two counties are identical. They can help each other in I
man}' ways. They should forget the old quarrel, now, work together when it I
is advantageous to do so and, as far as the antagonisms are concerned, start ■
with a clean slate. '
The "Bulletin" has supreme confidence that Benton County will be a sue- ]
cess in every way. No county in the entire nation has a better, brighter or more I
enterprising class of [leoijle. They have selected their own county officers, I
they will cheerfully assume the added burdens and responsibilities of self-gov- j
ernment and work out their own salvation. That is the prediction of this news- j
paper. The proper administration of the county's affairs, of course, depends 1 1
upon the officers, but the "Bulletin" believes they are capable and conscien- ii
tious ; that they will do their full duty. That they make some mistakes is to be
expected, as it is a difficult matter to organize a new county government, but
the errors can be corrected ; the people should exercise a tolerant spirit until the
officials become familiar with their duties, support them loyally and encourage
them in every way. This will be the sensible thing to do. Everybody will have
to work to help develop the magnificent resources of Benton County, take a pride
in it and it is sure to come out all right.
Here's to its success: may the people of the new county never have cause
to regret that it was created.
THE R.\ILRO..\D COMMI.SSION
Many of the newspapers of the state that supported Governor Mead last
Fall are complaining bitterly as to the personnel of the railroad commission he
has appointed. Frequently during the campaign, in his speeches in eastern
Washington, the governor declarefl that he would select at least two members
of the commission from the friends and advocates of that principle. He does
not appear to have done this. Mr. Fairchild of Bellingham and Mr. McMillin
of Roche Harbor are claimed to be closely identified with the railroad interest
of the state in politics. The Whitman County newspapers claim that Mr.
Lawrence of that county is a friend of the commission forces, but it is charged
that he fought Governor McBride's nomination and also that he is an intimate
personal and political friend of Charles P. Chamberlain, political manager and
manipulator of the Great Northern Railroad. Mr. Lawrence's antagonism to
McBride, in the opinion of this newspaper, should not be made a test of his
fealty to the commission principle. The "Bulletin" always has believed that
I
HISTORY OF YAKniA VALLEY 749
the ex-governor was a demagogue and was advocating the commission for the
sole purpose of advancing his own pohtical fortunes. It still so believes. But
the charge that Mr. Lawrence is closely identified with Mr. Chamberlain is more
serious.
This newspaper has no tight with the railroads. But it believes in a rail-
road commission. It thinks the freight rates are too high. It knows that in
many instances they should be equalized. The railroads should be regulated
by a railroad commission. The "Bulletin" has advocated the appointment of a
commission and was a strong supporter of Governor Mead. It honestly be-
lieved that the railroad forces of this state had no strings on him and advised its
constituency to vote for him. It does not now say that the railroads are con-
trolling the governor in this commission matter, but there is no denying the
fact that its friends are sorely disappointed in the personnel of the commission.
But it should not be condemned in advance. Perhaps it will be impartial
and efficient. It is sincerely hoped that it will. If it is not, the sole responsi-
bility will rest on Governor Mead. He must answer to the republican party
of this state and to the people for the commission's acts. If it is a failure, the
governor will be promptly retired from public life, which will be just and proper.
If the commission does the right thing, then the credit will belong to that offi-
cial. The "Bulletin" has never been a pessimist ; it always hopes for the best.
But, frankly, it has the very gravest apprehensions about the impartiality of
this railroad commission. It is disappointel that the governor did not select at
least two of the members about whose record on this question there could be
doubt as to their fidelity to the cause.
From the "Bulletin" of a week later (June 29, 1905) we discover that the
duh- appointed county commissioners went promptly to work :
BENTON COUNTY DOING BUSINESS
Benton County commenced doing business last Friday, June 23, shortly
before midnight. County Commissioners Jenson, Carey and Sims went to
North Yakima Friday afternoon, had their bonds approved by Judge H. B.
Rigg of the superior court, took the oath of office and hurried home on the
night train. The board then went into session at the office of Coffin Brothers'
store. County Attorney C. O. Anderson being present to act as their legal ad-
viser. The board organized by electing Carl A. Jenson as chairman, Mr. Carey
acting as clerk pro-tem. The first official act of the board was to appoint J. D.
Marsh as clerk of the Superior Court, who went to North Yakima Saturday
morning and took the oath of office before Judge Rigg. The next act of the
board was to appoint the county officers as follows:
Auditor — F. H. Gloyd.
Sheriff— A. G. McNeill.
Treasurer — C. O. Kelso.
Superintendent of schools — J. W. Gilkey.
Surveyor — A. L. Smith.
Coroner — Dr. F. S. Hedger.
The boaid t&en adjourned until Saturday morning, the adjourned session
being held in tf?.- dty hall at 10:20 o'clock, Auditor F. H. Gloyd acting as clerk
750 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
and County Attorney Anderson being present. The only business transacted was
to fix the bonds of the officers where they are not fixed by statute, the auditor
being instructed to notify the officers to file their bonds and qualify within
fifteen days or their office will be declared vacant, as provided by law. A letter
accompanies the notification urging the officials to file their bonds and qualify
on or before July 1st. The bond of the treasurer was fixed at $25,000, the
statutes providing that it shall be twice the amount of money he is liable to
have on hand at any one time. The sheriff's bond was fixed at $2,500, the
minimum amount required by law. The statutes fix the bonds of the commis-
sioners and county attorney at $5,000 each. The board discussed informally
the matter of dividing the county into three commissioner districts, but took
no action, the county attorney advising that no further business be transacted
at this meeting. The board will meet next Monday, July 2d, for its regular
quarterly meeting.
There >vill be a great deal of business to transact at that time, which will
probably include ordering cells for the jail, furniture and supplies for the court-
house, a vault for the records, advertising for bids to transcribe the records and
county printing and many other matters. Auditor Gloyd has opened his office
at the Prosser State Bank and is doing business. He has appointed A. C. Snow-
den as deputy and will himself pay his salary. SheriiT McNeill is also on duty,
his office for the present being at the real estate office of McNeill & Stam. Hal
Jack of Horse Heaven, has been sworn in as his deputy and the city jail, for
the present, will be used by the county. At this writing the first victim has not
yet been captured.
Clerk J. D. Marsh is on duty at the courthouse, which workmen are putting
in shape as fast as possible by papering the rooms and getting them ready for
occupancy. Commissioner Jenson is superintending the work in a thorough
manner, also having charge of cleaning up the old Riverside Hotel, which is
going to make very comfortable temporary quarters for the officials. County
Superintendent Gilkey was on hand Tuesday, but his office was not ready and
there was nothing for him to do.
officers' bonds filed
The following bonds of county officers have been filed, all with the audi-
tor, with the exception of that official's bond, which is filed with Clerk Marsh:
Commissioner Carl A. Jenson, $5,000; sureties, John W. Brown, Peter
Prengruber, C. C. McCown and Moritz Allgaier.
Commissioner J. W. Carey, $5,000; sureties, Elmer Bernard, Byron Ber-
nard, H. J. Jenks and H. W. Creason.
Commissioner W. P. Sims, $5,000; sureties, the Title Guaranty & Trust
Company, bond furnished through Attorney B. E. McGregor.
Sheriff A. G. McNeill, $2,500; sureties, D. M. Angus, O. S. Brown and
J. S. Roberts.
Clerk J. D. Marsh, $2,000; sureties, the Title Guaranty & Trust Company.
Auditor F. H. Gloyd, $3,000; sureties, H. J. Jenks, Josiah Burchett and
A. D. Snowden.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 751
Justice of Peace S. H. Mason, $500; sureties, W. H. Hill and C. C.
McCown.
COUNTY NEWS NOTES
The first business to be transacted by Clerk Marsh was to acknowledge a
bond on Tuesday for Attorney Andrew Brown, for which the county received
a fee of fifty cents.
Sherilf McNeill performed his first official act Tuesday. It was to serve a
restraining order on E. A. McEchran from the Superior Court commanding
him not to allow the waste water from his ditch to run on the premises of W.
H. Burrel. The former lives on the western boundary line of the county and
the latter just over the line in Yakima County.
The first instrument filed in Benton County was received by Auditor
Gloyd last Saturday. It was a warranty deed by George J. Hesselman and
wife, conveying to Edward Reed, lots 7 and 8, block 57, Prosser, for a consid-
eration of $250. In addition to the above, up to yesterday noon, three mort-
gages have been filed with the auditor and a warranty deed from Mr. and Mrs.
Hesselman conveying lot 12, block 47, Prosser, to G. H. L. Moore for $50.
County Attorney C. O. Anderson earned the first money for Benton
County a week ago last Monday. On that day, after County Attorney Krutz of
Yakima had notified the officials there to transact no more business from Ben-
ton County, Mr. Anderson telephoned Auditor Newcomb that there was a sick
pauper at Kennewick that they wanted to send to Yakima. He replied that the
county would not receive him; that Benton County must care for its own pau-
pers. A few moments after this transaction Mr. Anderson, as justice of the
peace, tried a man for petit larceny. He was fined $25, which was paid, and the
money will be turned into Benton County.
County Attorney Anderson, at the meeting of the commissioners Saturday,
made a good impression on the members of the board and everybody present at
,the meeting. He seems to know the law, is careful about giving advice, but at
the same time positive, and is familiar with the duties. He was formerly county
attorney of a new county in Arizona or Njevada and his previous experience
will be valuable to the commissioners and other officers.
Commissioner Jenson wrote the Inland Printing Company of Spokane the
other day, which has the contract for furnishing the blank books, to hurry up
the commissioners' record book, which is needed to record the proceedings of
the board. In response the company shipped by express a book in which to
keep a record of estray animals. This book is needed, all right, but will hardly
serve as a commissioners' record.
The first case in the Superior Court from Benton County was filed yester-
day, being a suit to collect a debt of $117.12 by D. S. Sprinkle against M. Nakai,
a Japanese foreman and boarding-house keeper for the Northern Pacific near
Kennewick. Bert Linn is attorney for the plaintift" and Sherilt McNeill goes
down this afternoon to serve the papers.
RECORD OF ELECTIONS
The legislative act establishing the county designated Carl A. Jenson, W.
752 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
P. Sims and J. W. Carey as commissioners. These commissioners duly met
and created these precincts: Expansion, Finley, Glade, Hover, Kennewick,
Kiona, Paterson, Prosser, Rattlesnake, Richland, Wellington, White Bluffs.
The first election in the new county occurred in 1906. As will be seen, the
republicans were in an overwhelming majority on the congressional ticket, but
on local tickets the result was mixed. The results of the election for congress-
men were these : Humphreys 747, Jones 753, Cushman 7i7 , William Blackman
293, Patrick S. Byrne 287, Dudley Eshelman 290. For members of the Su-
preme Court of the state an average vote of 750 was cast for Mount, Crow,
Root and Dunbar, the other candidates receiving an average of 290.
For state representative, fifty-eighth district, we find a democratic triumph
in the election of G. W. Hamilton with 744 to 425 for H. A. Hover. Another
democratic success is registered in the vote for sheriff, 750 for A. G. McNeill
to 432 for John W. Randall. For clerk the vote stood: L. J. Robinson 845,
J. D. Marsh 295. W. S. Jenkins for auditor had no opposition and received a
vote of 845. There was a close vote for treasurer ; R. B. Walker 599, H. W.
Fish 554. J. W. Callicotte was chosen attorney with 666 votes to 467 for
Clinton Staser. The vote for assessor resulted in 551 votes for Harry Van
Horn to 599 for Samuel Crooks. Annie Goff was elected superintendent by
618 votes to 534 for Clara A. Vertrees. K. C. Bowers became surveyor with-
out opposition, as also Dr. J. W. Hewitson became coroner. For commission-
ers : in the first district there was a very close vote, W. C. Travis receiving 594
to 585 for D. H. Harper ; in second district J. N. Crosby was elected with
no opposition, and in the third Don M. Cresswell was chosen in the same
easy manner. The proposition to amend Article 16 of the constitution was
carried by 131 to 62, and that to amend Article 21 received 130 to 61.
ELECTION OF 1908
The following is the vote for the countv officers of the general election of
1908:
Judge. Superior Court, O. R. Holcomb 1,392
Judge, Superior Court, W. W. Zent 194
Sheriff (R) E. D. Elhs 669
Sheriff (D) A. G. McNeill 757
Clerk (R) J. D. Marsh 1,005
Clerk (Soc.) H. Strandwold 130
Auditor (R) W. S. Jenkins 954
Auditor (D) C. F. Gilpin 437
Treasurer (R) R. B. Walker. 1,043
Treasurer (S) B. F. Caster 146
Prosecuting Attorney (R) Ernest L. Kolb 797
Prosecuting Attorney (D) H. Dustin 588
Prosecuting Attorney (S) Samuel Mason 124
Assessor (R) J. K. DePriest 782
Assessor (D) S. C. Crooks 621
Superintendent of Schools (R) Minnie Carnahan 663
Superintendent of Schools (D) Annie Goff 784
Engineer (R) K. C. Bowers 1,022
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 753
Commissioner, second district (R) J. N. Crosby 724
Commissioner, second district (D) L. A. Hienzerling 636
Commissioner, second district (S) H. D. Lake 118
Commissioner, third district (R) H. C. J. Tweedt 725
Commissioner, third district (D) J. B. Clements 661
The election of 1910 shows a large addition to the precincts. They appear
thus : Carley, Columbia, Expansion, Finley, Glade, Hanford, Horse Heaven,
Hover, Kennewick, Kennewick Valley, Kiona, Paterson, Prosser, East Prosser,
North Prosser, West Prosser, Rattlesnake, Richland, Wellington, White Bluffs.
Again the republicans made a great killing. The marked feature of this
election was the socialist vote, there being no democrat at all in three contested
cases. We find the results as follows: Representative in Congress, W. L.
LaFollette, rep., 932; H. D. Merritt, dem., 241; D. C. Coates, soc, 164; state
senator, fifteenth district, Frank J. Allen, rep., 900; Richard A. O'Brien, dem.,
337; H. D. Jory, soc, 183; state representative, fifty-eighth district. Nelson
Rich, rep., 769; A. G. McNeill, dem., 559; J. W. Brice, soc, 34; sheriff, W. R.
Mahan, rep., 746; H. E. Bean, dem., 603; J. R. Mercer, soc, 154; clerk, Frank
E. Snively, rep., 843; R. A. Mullengit, dem., 449; Harold Strandwold, soc, 168
auditor, A. E. Verity, rep., 1,041; Warren Edgot, dem., 201; treasurer, J. Kelly
DePriest, rep., 984; R. W. Bignall, soc, 324; attorney, Lon Boyle, rep., 1,131:
assessor, John Severyns, rep., 1,061; F. E. DeSellem, soc, 246; superintendent
Wata J. Jones, rep., 1,147; engineer, C. D. Walter, rep., 1,099; coroner, H. W
Howard, rep., 1,068; commissioner first district, H. M. Walthew, rep., 892
John Sumner, soc, 289; commissioner third district, Hans C. J. Tweedt, rep.
548; J. B. Clements, dem., 683; Frank Kelley, soc, 185; Charles M. Sanford
ind., 59.
ELECTION OF 1912
Benton County, like the state of Washington, was in the progressive line
in the presidential election. The highest progressive elector received 1,370
votes, the highest democratic received 1,236, and the G. O. P. had to be content
with 735. The socialists made a good showing in this election, with 356 ; the
socialist labor ticket received 35, and the prohibition candidates received 77 .
The congressional returns are also suggestive. They are as follows: J. E.
Frost, rep., 992; H. B. Dewey, rep., 970; J. W. Bryan, prog., 968; J. A. Fal-
coner, prog., 959: E. I. Conner, dem., iZl; H. M. White, dem., 326; congress-
man, fourth district, W. L. LaFollette, rep., 1,421; F. M. Goodwin, prog., 797;
R. M. Drumheller, dem., 942.
The vote for governor showed that the republican party still held its own
in the county, though in the state the results were not the same. M. E. Hay,
rep., received 1,486, to 1,199 for Ernest Lister, dem., and 623 for Robert
Hodges, prog. For state senator in District 15, Frank J. Allen, republican, was
an easy victor, although by a plurality only. The surprising thing in this elec-
tion was the strength of the socialist vote. It is to be noted, however, that
there was no progressive nomination and that it is probable that many of that
party voted the socialist ticket. For senator the results were as follows : Frank
J. Allen, rep., 1,367; Henrv H. Wende, dem., 981; H. D. Jorv, soc 738 • J S
(48)
754 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Mclvee, prohi., 313. For state representative from District 58, we find these
results: Herbert K. Rowland, rep., 1,711; L. C. Foisy, soc, 424. For superior
judge, O. R. Holcomb, received 1,639 votes, with no opposition. Results in
vote for local officers were these: Sheriff, W. B. IMahan, rep., 1,884; A. G.
McNeill, dem., 1,384; J. W. Sumner, soc, 308; clerk, Frank E. Snively, rep.,
2,236; M. E. McDougal, dem., 815; auditor, A. E. Verity, rep., 2,246: C. F.
Gilpin, dem., 905; treasurer. A. C. Rundle, rep., 1,359; E. R. Harper, dem.,
1,755; Warren Edgar, soc. 288; attorney, H. H. Cole, rep., 1,592; G. W. Ham-
ihon, dem., 1,491; assessor, John Severyns, rep., 1,946; C. E. Rude, dem., 1,084;
J. D. Smith, soc, 289: superintendent, Wata R. Jones, rep., 2,549: engineer,
C. D. Walter, rep., 2,323; commissioner in District 1, H. M. Walthew, rep.,
1,884; W. H. Cook, soc, 364; commissioner in District 2, D. M. Angus, rep.,
953; E. J. Ward, dem., 1,702; W. B. Mathews, soc, 332; E. D. Mineah, ind.,
318; coroner, G. W. Hewetson, rep., 1,586; A. DeY. Green, dem,, 1,391. It is
unusual and surprising to find so strong a socialist vote in n purely agricultural
community.
ELECTION OF 1914
A new apportionment of precincts was one of the features of this election.
They are recorded as follows : Carley, Columbia, Expansion, Finley, Glade,
Han ford. Highlands, Horn Rapids, Horse Heaven, Hover, Kennewick First,
Kennewick Second, Kennewick Third, Kennewick Gardens, Kennewick South,
Kennewick Valley, Kiona, Lower Yakima, Paterson, Prosser First, Prosser
Second, Prosser Third, Prossed East, Prosser North, Prosser West, Rattle-
snake, Richland, Riverside, Vale, Walnut Grove, Wellington, White Bluffs.
The election of 1^*14 was marked by the passage of constitutional amend-
ment No. 3, the prohibition amendment. This great stage in the progress of the
state was largely an "east side" victory. The part of the state west of the Cas-
cade Mountains gave a negative majority of about 10.000. Rut this was much
more than overcome by a majority of 25,000 east of the Cascades.
The Yakima A'alley was in the forefront of the victors. Yakima County
cast a larger majority than any other county, but the percentage of majority to
population was as large in Benton as in the mother county. The vote stood
2,016 to 1,221. The year of 1914 was a senatorial year and one of ven,' marked
interest. The swinging to and fro of parties had, however, brought the bal-
ance somewhat to the normal standing of the parties, the republicans winning
by a heavy plurality, though not a majority. The senatorial contest shows that
W. L. Jones, having already completed one term in the upper house, following
five terms in the lower house, was reelected. The vote is recorded thus: W.
L. Jones, rep., 1,492; W. W. Black, dem.. 839; Ole Hanson, prog., 587; A. H.
Barth, soc, 202; A. S. Caton, prohi., 102. For representative, W. L. LaFollette,
former incumbent, received 1,461 to 868 for Roscoe Drumheller, dem., 394 for
M. A. Peacock, prog., 210 for John Storland, soc, and 97 for J. V. Mohr, prohi.
For state representative in district 58, Grant A. Stewart, rep. was chosen by
1,649 over Knute Hill, dem., with 1,137, and Asa A'ance, soc, with 203. For
local officers we find the following record: Auditor, L. L. Lynn, rep., 1,753;
William Guernsey, prog., 1,054; treasurer, I. L. Macumber, rep., 1,334; Earl R.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 755
Harper, dem., 1,362; Olaf Strandwold, prog., 321 ; clerk, M. C. Delle, rep., 2,168;
sheriff, C. E. Duffy, rep., 1,564; S. A. D. Davis, dem., 1,217; J. W. Sumner,
soc, 232: A. J. Houghton, prog., 182; attorney, H. H. Cole, rep., 1,438: C. W.
Fristoe, dem., 1,482; assessor, A. H. Wheaton, rep., 1,755; Benjamin F. Rupert,
dem., 1,083; engineer, T. J. Wright, rep., 1,499; Guy H. Heberling, dem.. 1,364;
superintendent, A. C. Jones, rep., 1,523; E. A. Wise, dem., 1,372; commissioner,
District 1, J. C. Syfford, rep., 1,835 ; W. H. Cook, soc, 1,372; commissioner, Dis-
trict 2, G. E. Finn, rep., 1,146; E. J. Ward, dem., 1,228: W. B. Alathews, soc,
210; G. W. Wilgus, prog., 339; commissioner. District 3, Joseph Gerards, rep.,
1,142; J. B. Clements, dem., 1,424: I. N. Newkirk, soc, 243.
ELECTION OF 1916.
With this election we reach another Presidential year, in the very midst
of the great war, on the verge of which our own nation was standing. Never
perhaps, unless in the elections of Lincoln in 1860 and 1864, has there been so
momentous an election. The state of Washington demonstrated anew her inde-
pendence. For though normally republican on national issues by 60,000 major-
ity, she cast her choice for Wilson, with other western states, also normally of
the same political fealty, insuring another term for the man to whom the war-
torn people of Europe seem now to be turning more than to any other for
determining the principles of just and lasting peace.
Benton County, however, like the rest of the valley, still adhered to its old
allegiance. The highest elector on each ticket received the following vote :
Republican 1,460, democrat 1,351, socialist 342, prohibition 53, socialist labor 5.
The results for United States senator gave Miles Poindexter 1,802 to 982 for
George Turner. It had been a battle royal between these two great Spokane
politicians, men perhaps without equals in the state for political ability and
experience. The outcome demonstrated, as in previous elections, the almost
uncanny ability of the republican candidate for reading correctly the signs of
the political barometer and shaping his course accordingly. His vote in the
state was nearly in the same proportion as in Benton County, for he had 66,948
plurality over Turner. The results of the election for congressman in the fourth
district were on a parallel with those for senator. W. L. La Follette was re-
elected by 1,812 to 917 for Charles Masterson, dem., and 313 for Walter Pine,
socialist. The contest for the gubernatorial chair was as pronounced as for
the presidency. Here, however, Benton County reversed itself and followed
the rest of the state in a pronounced majority for the democratic candidate,
Ernest Lister, 1,561 to 1,332 for his republican opponent, Henry McBride.
Another marked feature of the election of 1916 was the result of a deter-
mined, as well as unscrupulous, campaign on the part of the liquor forces to
nullify the prohibition amendment of 1914. The several initiative measures
framed with that end in view were overwhelmingly defeated. Benton County
and the valley in general were almost unanimous against these measures.
Reaching the legislative choices we find the senator from the fifteenth dis-
trict to be D. V. Morthland, rep., chosen by 1,577 votes, to 1,045 for H. C. Davis,
dem., and 316 for J. W. Martin, soc. Representative for District 58 was Gordon
756 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
C. Moores with 1,766 to 865 for J. B. Clements, clem., and 338 for I. X. Xew-
kirk, soc.
The election for local officers resulted in the election of C. E. Dufify for
sheriff with 1,879 votes; E. A. Ferrell, 894: and I, W. Sumner, 334; respectively
rep., dem. and Soc. The other offices we group as follows, naming in the order
of rep., dem. and if more than two, soc. : Clerk, W. C. Delle, 2,083, J. C.
Mathews, soc, 308; auditor, J. C. Syfiford, 1,990; treasm-er, J. C. McClellan,
1,393, H. S. Huntington, 1,397, the closest election in the county history; attorney,
Andrew Brown, 1,370, C. W. Fristoe, 1,505; assessor, A. H. Wheaton, 1,967;
superintendent, Mrs. Lowa M. Crawford, 1,705, E. A. Wise, 1,239: engineer,
Guy M. Heterling, 2,083; coroner, C. C. Moffat, 2,034; commissioner first dis-
trict, L. L. Bash, 1,617, G. F. Gibson, 987; commissioner second district, E. C.
Houston, 1,363, A. G. McNeill, 978, D. M. Angus, 643; commissioner District 3,
R. E. Pratt 1,723, E. Timmerman 861, John Storland 52o.
ELECTION- OF 1918.
The progress of events brings us now to the election of 1918, occurring at
a time the most extraordinary in many respects in the world's history, marking
the sudden and dramatic ending of the most unjust, insane and criminal blow
at the world's peace ever known and marking also the complete and irretrievable
downfall of the great international highwaymen and pirates of the earth — an
outcome whose ])ro founder results we cannot for many months or perhaps years
fully appraise or narrate. Suffice it to say that while this book was in prepara-
tion, there came a new heaven and a new earth.
One of the enigmatical collateral events contemporary with these stupendous
international changes, was the heavy reaction in many states of the congressional
elections from democratic to republican majorities. In the choice of congress-
man for the fourth district, J. W. Summers, republican, received a vote in this
county of 1,190 to 848 for his democratic opponent, W. E. McCroskey. This
election was marked also by the last gasp of old John Barleycorn. This final
struggle turned on the referendum of the "bone-dry" prohibition law of the
legislature of 1917. C)n account of the national prohibition laws and presidential
proclamations, the edge had been taken off from this last campaign, and interest
was not keen. Nevertheless the outcome was the sustaining of the law by a
large majority. The vote in this county was 947 to 405.
The representative to the legislature for District 58 was Gordon C. Moores,
chosen over Lee Ferguson by 1,149 to 970. For sheriff L. C. Rolph had 1,537
to 505 for H. E. Bean. A number of nominees, all republicans, were chosen
without opposition. In this list we find Edmond L. Steward for clerk, Kathrvn
Severyns for auditor, Mrs. Lowa M. Crawford for superintendent and Guy H.
Eberling for engineer. For treasurer George Starr with 1,223 votes was chosen
over Lloyd E. Huntington with 869. Lon Boyle became attorney with 1,601 to
1,025 for B. T. Rupert. In the first district F. L. Bash Vi-as chosen commissioner
with 1,175 to 1,002 for Charles L. McGlothlem. In the second district H. M.
French became commissioner with 1,345 to 452 for J. W. \Miiting. There were
no nominations for coroner, and H. M. French was appointed by the commis-
sioners to fill the office.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 757
COUNTY SEAT QUESTION.
Usually a county seat fight follows county division, in case there are two
or more towns of approximately equal population and advantages. That condi-
tion existed in Benton County. I'rosser and Kennewick were near enough of a
size to have a spirited though healthy and good-tempered rivalry. They repre-
sented, moreover, two essentially different sections of the county. Each was the
center of a splendid region prospectively, though neither had more than begun
development. In this case as in similar cases the adherents of the existing
county seat sought to determine the issue by the immediate erection of county
buildings. This attempt has been steadily blocked to the present date with the
result that the county officers have been subjected to great inconvenience and
inadequate quarters. In 1912 the question of a permanent county seat was
brought to a vote. It became a triangular conflict between Prosser, Kennewick
and Benton City. The last named place was the offspring of an ambitious effort
to locate a point apparently more central than either of the two chief towns of
the county. This effort had the backing of the O.-W. Railroad and Navigation
Company, and on the face of it. the new location seemed to fulfill the call for an
official center corresponding to the geographical.
The required majority for locating the county seat was three-fifths. The
result of the election in 1912 was that Kennewick received a majority, but not
enough, being about fifty-five per cent of the whole. Benton City had but two
and a half per cent, while Prosser carried the remainder. The vote of the
Columbia River section was thrown solidly for the River city, and that result
was sufficient to demonstrate the uncertainty of either section counting with
confidence on the permanent location. To a man up a tree and taking a calm
unprepossessed view from the outside, it would seem that the contention of
Benton City for the county seat by reason of the geographical center, has some
elements of reasonableness.
One thing is rather noticeable in all these county seat and state capita! con-
tentions— the extreme desire of certain towns for selection to the official head-
ship seldom brings the growth or the wealth anticipated. People seem to have
an intense eagerness to secure locations of official headquarters, but when secured
the gain is usually disappointing. A city must have genuine commercial rea-
sons to attain development.
In 1916 and 1917 an effort by the county authorities to proceed with the
building of a court house without referring the question to the voters resulted
in injunction proceedings which, after defeat in the lower court, were sustained
in the Supreme Court. As a result the whole matter of county seat and county
buildings in "in the air".
SCHOOLS OF THE COUNTY.
As we have already discovered in Yakima and Kittitas counties, the inhab-
itants of this favored valley appreciate to the full the primal need of an intel-
ligent citizenship. They have seen therefore that the public schools are the very
corner-stone of American Democracy. Hence, here, as in the older regions, we
find the school instruction, as well as the school buildings, the objects of jealous
758 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
care. Benton County has made generous outlay for the intellectual nurture of
her bG}S and girls.
We derive from data for 1''17 provided by Mrs. Lowa M. Crawford, super-
intendent of schools, the following:
Value of school buildings and grounds $338,920
Value of apparatus, furniture and books 186,890
Number of library books 7,947
Number of free school text liooks 25,712
Seating capacity of buildings 3,781
School census 2,722
School enrollment 2,?57
There are at the present time thirty-seven districts. Prosser is Number
Sixteen and Kennewick is Number Seventeen. Rather oddly the number of
teachers is precisely the same, twenty-one, in each.
As a historical item of much interest we note that the first school in what
is now Benton County was opened at Prosser in 1884. Mrs. Emma Warnecke,
now living on her home place near Prosser, was the teacher. We have the
pleasure of including a contribution from Mrs. \\'arnecke in our "Chapter of
Recollections." As one of the genuine builders of all that is worthiest in this
typical American community, Mrs. Warnecke is entitled to the profound respect
of all present and future readers.
We have received from Mrs. Crawford the directory of the teaching force
for the current year, and with the certainty that our readers will be glad to see
it we include it here.
TEACHERS OF BENTON COUNTY, WASHINGTON, 1918-19.
District. Name. Address.
J-1 C. A. Parker, Mrs. Alice Parker, Prosser.
2 Mrs. Linnie A. Mitchell, Paterson.
3 E. Pearl Evans, Hover.
4 Grace West, Prosser.
5 Ina Wall, Prosser.
6 Chas. W. Holt, Mrs. Leah Ludwick, Elsie B. Nebergall. Eva E. Chellis.
Myrtie Gray, Helen N. Gale, Viola A. Noonan, Mrs. Zada R. Rosaaen,
Beryl L. Holt, Jennie B. Dresser, Richland.
7 T- C. Faulkner, Mira JNIcLeod, iMabel Greene, Norine M. Sutherland.
White Bluflfs.
9 Omie Cochran, Kennewick.
9 Cecilia Dunegan, Mottinger.
10 Isabelle Blizard, Prosser.
11 Ada A. Adams, Prosser.
13 Clarence L. Henry, Nettie A. Snyder. Lois Gammon, Marilla Meikle,
Mary McGee, Finley.
14 Ina Whitehead, Prosser.
15 Vera S. Purdy, Prosser.
16 P. A. Wright. Warren C. Hodge. Caroline C. Hardick, Mrs. Edith G.
Hawley, Allene Dunn, Ethel G. Hughes, Pearl I. Hutchinson, K. Hill,
Grace A. Van Bergh, Gertrude Slaght, Grace D. Mason, Lillian Wise,
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 759
Mrs. Helen Hill, Mabel E. Smith, Elizabeth Griffith, Emma :\Ioore,
Mrs. Dora E. Thompson, J. S. Harrison, Mina B. Hickok, Dora L.
Williams, Velma L. Wehner, Prosser.
17 H. H. Hoffman, Mrs. Marjorie S. Turner, Gertrude Krafft, Caroline
Turnquist, Ethyle M. Thomas, Mary Mann, Grace Alitchell, Bertha S.
Wolf, Lora E. Maxwell, Susan M. Evans, Mrs. Nettie Morris, Lila E.
Marcy, Mrs. Pearl C. Tripp, Zelah R. Evans, Pearl Shepardson, Lena
Wol^flin, Winnie Darby, Mrs. Lucille K. Prichard, Frances H. Golds-
worthy, Annie Cavanaugh, Marian Morgan, Kennewick.
19 Florence Schlosser, Horse Heaven.
20 Mrs. Elma Potter, Kiona.
22 P. R. Bradley, Mrs. Lula M. Johnson, Coila Parker, Hover.
23 Gladys Hudnall, Kennewick.
26 Anna Lindblad, Whitcomb.
27 H. Lacey Squibb, Fannie E. Chase, Daisy M. Chase, Ruth Terpening,
Mary Wolford, Nina M. McGuire, Valma Grant, Kiona.
28 Mrs. Lois E. Mathews, Paterson.
29 C. A. Perkins, W. L. Beaumont superintendent, Mrs. Rhoda A. Evett,
Cornelia M. Weissmiller, Mrs. Ellen Clark, Hanford.
31 Dorothy Card, Prosser.
33 John M. Collins, Allegra Baxter, Kennewick.
34 May Newman, Cold Creek.
34 Nettie A. Fuerst, Vernita.
35 Hazel M. Barnes,, Kennewick.
36 Mrs. Magdalena Bale, Mary Bale, Prosser.
37 Hazel W. Besse, Prosser.
The religious, fraternal and commercial institutions of the county will find
their more fitting place in the chapter on the cities and towns. There is, how-
ever, an institution belonging entirely to the farmers which has been of so
remarkable a character that it deserves a place in the records of the county.
We refer to the Pomona Grange. This has played a great part in building up
the productive interests as well as the social life of the county. Facts in regard
to this important organization have .been secured from Mrs. G. W. Wilgus of
Prosser, who has been one of the members from the beginning. As a type of
similar organizations which are rendering an invaluable service to our farming
communities, Pomona Grange is worthy of special record.
PART III
CHAPTER \T
A JOURNEY THROUGH THE \ ALLEY— KITTITAS AND YAKIMA
COUNTIES
CLE ELUM AND ROSLVN COAL DISCOVERED CLE ELUM FIRE : DESCRIPTION AND
EDITORIALS FROM THE "ECHO" CLE ELUM HISTORY THE CLE ELUM "eCHO"
LODGES — SCHOOLS — ROSLYN FIRE AND STRIKE — BANK ROBBERY AT ROSLYN^
ROSLYN CHURCHES — ROSLYN INCORPORATED HEAVY VOTING AT PRIMARIES
(1918) MINERS ELECT OFFICIALS — FROM COAL CENTERS TO ORCHARDS' — THE
VILLAGE OF THORP — TOWN OF SELAH — SELAH GAP AND PAINTED ROCKS SODA
SPRINGS NACHES AHTENUM, WILEY CITY, TAMPICO, MOXEE CITY BELOW
POHOTECUTE — "HOW IT HAPPENIEd" WAPATO — TOPPENJSH TOPPENISH EX-
CEEDS LOAN QUOTA TOWNS ON NORTH SIDE OF RIVER PARKER BOTTOM
ZILLAH AND GRANGER — THE NORTHWEST MAGAZINE ON "IRRIGATED LANDS"
GRANGER SUNNYSIDE AND GRANDVIEW SCHOOLS OF SUNNYSIDE — CHURCHES
IN SUNNYSIDE THE SUNNYSIDE "SUN" SOME SUNNYSIDE PRODUCTS GRAND-
VIEW — GRANDVIEW ROLL OF HONOR — CROP STATISTICS — IRRIGATION BRINGS
GOLD FROM LAND.
In the preceding pages we have described the phj'sical features of the
Yakima country, and have narrated the successive stages of discovery and fur
trade, prior to settlement. We have seen the period of rivalry between our
own country and others for possession of this goodly land. The beginnings of
settlement have passed in review before us. We have noted also the develop-
ment of the industrial, political, intellectual, social and moral life of the region.
We have still further given special chapters to the growth of the two chief
cities, Yakima and Ellensburg. But we have not yet paid a visit to those inter-
esting and attractive smaller towns which, each in its own sphere, has created
the same kinds of instrumentalities of community life and has exemplified similar
qualities of enterprise and similar ideals of citizenship with the two larger and
older towns, and without which, indeed, those larger towns would have no life.
We shall undertake, therefore, in this chapter to conduct the reader through
the land of our story, endeavoring to reveal something of the appearance of the
country and its life, and pausing at the frequent towns and villages for a closer
view of people and things.
There have been various possible methods of travel, past and present. In
immigrant days the ox-team, with considerable foot work, was the regular
method. A stage later, in the cowboy and mining era, it was all horseback and
pack-saddle, with the hurricane deck of a bucking cayuse to furnish the varia-
tions. There were flat boat and steamboat periods, and then the Concord coach
with the six galloping horses and such tornadoes of picturesque "cuss words"
as no other method of conveyance could engender. And then the long-waited-
760
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 791
for, much-lauded, and still more loudly-cursed railroad. Last of all the Ever-
green, or Sunset, or some other, paved highway, over which the all-conquering
auto may shame the outgrown old fogies of transportation. The auto is the
"cock of the walk" just now, but look out! Winging its way out of the blue
ether, shaking from its glistening wings the dust of battle in which its first life
has been nurtured, comes soaring above the clods and gravel the angelus of a
new dawn of transportation, the flying chariot of the air, born in battle, but now
the harbinger of a new peace— the airplane, symbol of the Twentieth Century.
But that is somewhat in the future, and for our present purpose it will be safe
to rely upon the train or the auto or both. And, in fact, the beauty of a per-
sonally conducted tour of this sort is that we can emplo>- all sorts of vehicles
at any and all times.
One railroad traverses the Yakima Valley from its eastern edge on the
Columbia River to its extreme western limit at the Cascade summit. Another
entering also at the eastern border traverses the same general course as far as
Yakima. Yet another entering the borders of our section at the point just above
Priest's Rapids on the Columbia, makes its course in great spirals up the high-
lands north of Rattlesnake Mountain straight across the Kittitas plains to Ellens-
burg, and thence to the crossing of the Cascade Mountains by the Snoqualmie
Pass. Through that same pass the state has laid out one of the great scenic
routes of the continent, the Yellowstone Trail. Now we may enter this charmed
land of our story either from east or west, either going up or going down.
Suppose, however, that we go down, remembering Virgil's sounding lines, in
which he assures us — facilis descensus Averno, and thinking that we shall prob-
ably not have occasion to test the rest of his assertion, Sed rcvocare gradiim,
hoc opus, hie labor est. Having decided to descend we will necessarily enter
the Yakima from the Sound region.
To any one appreciative of the beauty and wonder of nature and responsive
to the vicissitudes of time and place, there is always a certain marvel in leaving
the soft, humid air, the towering evergreens, the moss-grown rocks and logs, the
flying scud, the salty breeze, the widening vistas of inlet and bay with the hulls
of ships and the smoke of engines, which he has known on the seaboard side, then
mile by mile rising, till vast, misty canons, and snow-streaked cliffs, and at cer-
tain open windows in the forests he may be dazed and almost driven to his knees
by the vision of "the Mountain that was God", and then a pause on the top of
the world, and vast reaches east and west assure him that he has gone his
highest, and then down, down, trees less frequent, moss giving way to grass,
widening plains far distant in the clearer, dryer air, and then he realizes that he
is really in the "East of the Mountains."
Such is some of the panorama which passes in review as we progress by
auto up and through the Snoqualmie Pass, and then down the Yellowstone Trail
toward the Kittitas Valley.
But our leading aim on this journey after all is to see the towns. Hold on,
though, we can never afford to hurry so as to miss a long pause at that perfect
symposium of beauty and delight, the lakes, Kachess, Keechelus and Cle Elum,
and to view the great reservoir systems established there by Government for
irrigating over a half million acres of fertile land far down the Yakima.
762 HISTORY OF YAKBIA \'ALLEY
Anv one with the ordinary susceptibilities of a normal human creature would
almost inevitably pause long enough also to fish in those enticing lakes or the
limpid streams that go singing away from them to compose the central stream.
CLE ELU^r AXD ROSLYN
But those abounding joys must not hold us back too long and within a few
miles onlv from the lakes we find that we are nearing the great coal center of
the extreme upper part of the valley. Here we are at Cle Elum and Roslyn, the
centers of the greatest coal producing region of the Pacific Coast.
With the towering mountains to the south and the rugged hills to the north,
and the sweeping streams of the Yakima and Cle Elum joining a few miles
above, and the fine timber along the courses of those streams, Cle Elum has
indeed a picturesque location, albeit somewhat shut in. Cle Elum is said to mean
"swift water." There is quite a valley below the town and on the Teanaway
across the ridge to the northeast. These valleys, though narrow, are very fertile.
Most people, thinking of this as a coal and lumber region and having the
impression that it is so much within the snow belt as to be of a very cold, for-
bidding climate, are much surprised to learn that there are many beautiful and
productive farms centering at Cle Elum. Fruit of a fine quality is produced
and the finest of flowers attest the life-giving qualities of soil and atmosphere.
Cle Elum has indeed a heavy snowfall, the usual amount of moisture for the
year being from 30 to 40 inches, and the elevation is about 2.000 feet, but the
climate is pleasant and invigorating to a remarkable degree, and with the
■ developments sure to come the town has every prospect of being not only a
prosperous business center (that it is sure to he) but a home place of many
attractions.
We learn that the founders of Cle Elum were Thomas L. Gamble ( later
known as Judge Gamble) and Walter J- Reed. Mr. Gamble took up a quarter
section of land in Section 26, Township 20 North, and Range 15 East, in April,
1883. Mr. Reed took a claim adjoining Mr. Gamble's on the west. On those
two preemption claims the town was laid out. The date of these filings was
three years prior to the discoven,- of coal, and those pioneer settlers were think-
ing of farming land rather than mineral. It is true that scattered discoveries
of coal ledges had been made in 1883 and 1884, but in 1886 a definite discovery
of a large ledge of good coal in paying quantities made it clear that a most
important stage had come in the history of the region. Population began to
enter. The N. P. R. R. was seeking a route over the Cascade Mountains.
CO.\L DISCOVERED
Some assert that the selection of the Stampede Pass was determined by the
coal discovery. In the Spring of 1886 the railroad engineers under Mr. Bogue
and Mr. Huson were making their survey through the region. It was plain
that somewhere in that general vicinity a station would become established. Mr.
Reed took into partnership with himself Thomas Johnson of Ellensburg and
laid out sixty-five acres as a site. This was legally dedicated on July 26. Mr.
Johnson had owned a sawmill on \\^ilson Creek, and now he moved the mill to
HISTORY OF YAKBIA VALLEY 763
the new location. The partners. Reed and Johnson, estabhshed what was un-
doubtedly the largest mill up to that time in central or eastern Washington,
cutting 40,000 feet per day. At the same time, Frederick Leonhard, who with
his brother-in-law, Gerrit d'Ablaing, had been carrying on a mill on Cooke Creek
and later on the Naneum, moved to the vicinity of Cle Elum. They cut a large
part of the lumber for the Stampede tunnel.
October 11, 1886, was a great day for Cle Elum, for on that day the first
Northern Pacific Railroad train pulled into the station. Following the arrival
of the railway, the raw little town began to grow rapidly. Two stores were
built and stocked in 1886, one by Thomas Johnson, the other by fheron Staf-
ford. A school district was laid out, having generous boundaries, for thus far
there were few children in the district. The old Reed preemption cabin was
transformed into a schoolhouse, and the salary for the teacher w&s raised by
subscription. Mr. Reed had meanwhile built a hotel, which continued to be
the chief hotel in the place. The first local election in Cle Elum occurred No-
vember 2, 1886. H. C. Witters was first justice of the peace, followed by the
first inhabitant. Judge Gamble. A postoffice was established with the beginning
of 1888, Dr. Wheelock becoming first postmaster. In that year ]\Ir. Gamble
laid out the larger part of his farm in a new town which he called Hazelwood.
Subsequently this plat was relaid as the Hazelwood addition to Cle Elum.
It appears from the narrations of the people that Cle Elum has been a vic-
tim of fires to even a greater degree than Ellensburg. A considerable part of
the town was destroyed on July 2i, 1891, by a fire which attacked the town
from burning trees, and having been checked to all appearance again began in
the Staitord store. Losses were entailed estimated at $50,000, with but scanty
insurance.
But the earlier fires were all surpassed by the great disaster of June 25,
1918. We derive from the "Cle Elum Echo" of July 5th, a full account of this
truly appalling calamity to the promising young city of Cle Elum.
Editorial comment in the "Echo" gives light on the situation and the
bravery with which the citizens faced their losses and at once set about repair-
ing them.
CLE ELUM SWEPT BY FIRE
IMPORTAXT FIRE F.^^CTS
Loss $500,000.
Burned area, seventy acres.
Number mercantile houses lost thirty.
Number houses destroyed 205.
Estimated homeless people 1,800.
Estimated homeless families, 350.
Gross fire loss to merchants and mercantile business, $223,350.
Total insurance by sixteen merchants, $57,950.
Number merchants not carrying insurance, fourteen.
Greatest length burned area, 4,350 feet.
Duration of fire, 12:20 p. m. to 4 p. m.
Cle Elum sulifered the greatest calamity in its history Tuesday afternoon
764 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
when twenty-nine blocks, covering an area of seventy acres, were laid waste
by fire in less than four hours and fully 1,800 people were rendered homeless,
causing suitering, destitution and half a million dollars financial loss. Nearly
one-half of its business concerns were swept out of existence and 205 houses
were laid in ashes. No lives were lost, fortunately, though there were two or
three narrow escapes. The brightest side of the catastrophe, if it can be said
10 ha\e one, lies in the fact that it occurred in broad daylight and in the splendid
spirit with which the people are meeting their misfortunes.
The first estimates of financial loss placed it at a million but careful inves-
tigation has shown it was too high, unless the losses of individuals run higher
than reported. Insurance was extremely light, due to high insurance rates prev-
alent here on wooden buildings, where most of the loss occurred.
Relief work has been carried on in a highly satisfactory manner, thanks
to quick local organization under the chairmanship of Mayor Balmer, who is
also head of the Red Cross here, and to the prompt response of the North-
western headquarters of the National Red Cross Society, together with aid from
neighboring towns. Fire sufferers threw themselves vigorously into the work
alongside of those more fortunate and for the first two days everybody here
concentrated their entire eiYorts upon relieving the distress. Temporary relief
has been provided in ever)' instance that could be found and the city is now
approaching the serious problems presented by permanent construction work.
Outside assistance will have to be obtained in carrying this through, but the
plans under consideration do not contemplate charity, merely financial assistance
for people who are willing to help themselves and eventually pay for what they
get. The Independent Coal & Coke Company is rendering substantial assistance
in every way to its men and announcement is made this afternoon that the
N. W. I. Company will cooperate generously. Most of the homeless people are
miners and their families. Local relief work today passed into the hands of
the Cle Elum branch of the Red Cross and the Minute Women while a citizens'
committee and the city officials will handle reconstruction work.
ORIGIN OF FIRE
It seems to be clearly established after the most careful investigation and
re-checking of testimony by Prosecuting Attorney McGuire, Chief of Police
Bunker, Fire Warden Bringhurst of Seattle and others, that the fire originated
in a pile of rubbish lying alongside the rear south wall of the Rose Theatre
building at its intersection with the Moss store. At this point there had been
for some time past a lot of old boards, banana crates, paper, excelsior, etc.,
which had gradually accumulated. The two buildings had separate walls wdth
an air space of perhaps a foot between them, forming a regular funnel for any
blaze. All evidence is that the fire started there, and not from the inside of
cither building, about 12:20 Tuesday noon. How it started is still a mystery
and may always remain one, but it is generally ascribed to the throwing away
of a cigarette or a lighted match because this dangerous practice had been re-
ported previously in that vicinity.
Gaining headway unobserved, the air space between the buildings acted as a
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 765
bellows would and when discovered the flames were shooting up the side of the
Theatre building and covering the rear of the Moss store. A number of ladies
report having seen it and shouting the alarm. Mona Moss from an upstairs
window reported it to her mother down below and she ran to the front of the
■Store calling for help, and phoned. Mrs. J. L. Snyder, who lives with her
daughter in the back of the City Library building, where she is librarian, heard
the crackling and running out behind that building discovered it. She stated
that she believed it might have been put out with a common garden hose, but
none was at hand. Her cries of fire attracted attention on Pennsylvania Ave-
nue. Widow Davis, who lives right back of the Rose Theatre, also saw the
blaze in its incipiency.
The fire bell shortly rang out its dreaded summons and the fire boys, under
Chief Carr, responded with promptness, with only a hundred yards to run with
the hose. Walter Steele, manager of the theatre, ran from his home opposite
the Reliable garage and with a Milwaukee brakeman entered his building. He
states that after he reached there the flames broke through the wall behind the
stage and catching the heavily dyed movie curtain, crashed into a roar like an
explosion. His first thought was to save his three machines, but in their sus-
pended room, reached only by a slight ladder, the thing was impossible. One
man started to save films but Steele shouted a warning and they scrambled for
the entrance doors. The "Miner Echo" representative, who arrived at this mo-
ment, saw only a mass of fire over the stage, which spelled a fire beyond the
reach of ordinary fighting, and fire in the Moss store told the coming story only
too plainly.
GALE F.'\NS FLAMES
Outside, the heaviest wind in days, coming straight down the Yakima
River from the mountains directly west, amounted to a gale and doomed the
whole block of frame buildings which formed the entire east side of Pennsyl-
vania Avenue in the block. With a snarl and a roar the great flames flung
their challenge upward to the clear skies and began their mad career which was
to bring sorrow and misery to hundreds and deal the city a staggering blow.
The black clouds arose and darkened the scene and then rolled eastward across
the town. With the rising heat the wind increased, a natural tendency, until
burning cinders and pieces of wood were carried hundreds of feet, igniting the
Jones building at the other end of the block on First Street, within a few min-
utes after the fire broke out.
Shingle roofs in the path of the wind one by one picked up these burning
embers, smoked and then burst into flame. It was no time at all until the entire
block, with the exception of two buildings with fireproof roofs (First National
Bank and the Kinney buildings, both but two years old) was a seething cauld-
ron of fire. The heat grew so intense that the Oblak cigar store beside the Rose
Theatre could not resist it and residences on the opposite side of Second Street
were fairly blistered. On the south side of First Street, which is an unusu-
ally broad avenue, windows cracked but all buildings were saved by lying out-
side the course of the fire.
At once the public commenced carrying out stocks of goods, though it
766 HISTORY OF YAKIAIA VALLEY
seemed to be a long time before the realization came home to people that noth-
ing could save the block. So swift was the march of the fire that it was for
the most part in vain. Stores with brick walls succumbed as well as frame
buildings. Doomed was written everywhere. The first hose laid was burned
before it could be removed.
SWEEPS ONWARD
At Harris Avenue, the first cross street to the eastward, the fire could have
been checked had it not been for the wind, but it crossed easily, attacked the
laundry (which, however, escaped destruction), the creamery and the State
Bank, the latter a brick building, and fought with wicked insistence for the
big frame high school building. Here the janitor, Van Martin, and the presi-
dent of the class of 1918, Harold Cox, to his everlasting credit, won the battle.
Climbing to the roof they used long lines of small hose. Three times serious
fires broke out on the shingles but the two fighters were there instantly. Num-
berless sparks tried to claim their prey but valiant work and kind fortune smiled
on the taxpayers of School District No. 25 to the end that they won. Not only
did they win the schoolhouse but undoubtedly every resident on the north
side of Third Street owes his home to the saving of the schoolhouse. However,
the small grade building on the corner, formerly the Baptist Church, was not so
fortunate and burned to the ground. With it went practically every school
textbook in the city excepting those of the Hazelwood School, stored there,
which J. N. Spicer, principal of that school, with help, carried out in safety.
THE C.^T.^STROPHE
Under skies lurid with the sickening yellow brown smoke the fire now
outdid itself by jinnping the entire block to the residence section. The homes
of Mike Miller, H. J. Spratt, Tony Casey and G. I. Wilson on Third Street
caught from cinders and to the southward the Trucano Building and every
residence east of it burst into fire. The wind whistled its challenge and the
crv went up from three thousand parched throats and aching hearts, "The
city is gone." The gale veered southward, saving the north side of Third
Street, and with one mighty plunge a score of homes were swallowed up in
the awful holocaust.
DYNAMITE USED
In the meantime the mines had been shut down, all power and juice shut
oft" from the N. W. I. plant at Roslyn, and Roslyn was on its way en masse
to help its sister city, led by its valiant fire fighters. They had been summoned
at the outset by Chief of Police Bunker, who phoned Chief McCain the laconic
message: "We're lost but help us save what we can." When the fire crossed
the second block from Pennsylvania Avenue and jumped Wright Avenue, the
fire fighters went for dynamite, which was readily obtained from the mine
powder houses, and under the guidance of experienced powder men, the deadly
work was begun. Building after building which it seemed would be better in
ruins than standing was blown up. A fifty pound case of Monobel powder
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 767
did the work and soon the city was resounding with the deep boom of the de-
tonations. It alTected the situation httle, however, it seems.
miners' homes c.a^tch
A sea of flame engulfed the densely populated section to the east, inhabited
almost entirely by miners' families. On many lots two or three small frame
houses stood and they were the finest of fuel. Frightened but brave women
and children assisted frantic husbands and brothers and friends to haul out
their belongings into the streets only to see them curl with heat and finally
fall into ashes of twisted wreckage while they themselves fled for safety.
It was a pitiful sight that made the stoutest heart quail to see these poor
people lose their all and with a few personal effects seek a quiet spot in the
unburned districts. Automobiles whirled up and down the streets carrying
away as much property as possible and every form of conveyance was used,
but it was an unequal battle. Cross street after cross street was jumped, fire-
men gathered their hose and got out of the way when they saw the situation
was hopeless, and the freaky gale veered to north and south, cutting a swath
three blocks wide at the last.
At Bullitt Avenue the fire crossed First Street, licked up the string of
frame buildings, including Schober's grocery and bakery on the corner, and
swept over Peoh Avenue to Ballard's meat market. Pricco's large bakery,
across the street, was completely burned at this point. A block farther the old
established sawmill and lumber yards of Miller & Short, one of the city's largest
pioneer concerns, so needful to rehabilitate the city, fell finally into the maw
of the fire, despite every effort to save it. Every foot of lumber in scores of
piles was lost absolutely and the mill site is marked now only by the stark
skeleton of the huge blower chimney and a junk heap of machinery. This was
the last straw, it seemed, when lumber is so scarce.
JUMPS THE TRACKS
At the independent mine sidetracks there is a wide vacant right of way on
each side, these tracks running north and south like cross streets. Here the
fire fighters took courage and hoped to stay the flames, but disappointment was
their lot. Over the hundreds of feet of bare ground the cinders flew and
caught and clung on more miners' homes and swept onward, seemingly bent
on clearing a track as far as fuel could feed the fire. Two blocks farther the
edge of the city was finally reached and there the scattering houses proved a
barrier which finally held. At its extreme east point the fire was stopped
eight long blocks from Pennsylvania Avenue or at Columbia. This was on the
north side of Third Street. Between Third and Second Streets, south, the fire
was stopped half a block nearer and on First Street it was still a little nearer,
showing the variation of the wind. Columbia Avenue, however, practically
bounds the district on the east. When stayed, it was only four o'clock, from
which some idea of the rapidity with which the fire burned may be obtained.
The distance covered by the fire from Pennsylvania Avenue to Columbia is
768 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
4.350 feet or four-fifths of a mile and the burned area is seventy acres. From
Wright Avenue east the width of the belt is three blocks.
ELLENSBURG HELPS
A message was also sent to Ellensburg by Chief Bunker early in the fire's
progress and by special train the steam engine from that city, manned by its
crew, was shipped at once. It reached Cle Elum about half past two o'clock
and went into service immediatel\- in the eastern end of the city with good effect.
RELIEF WORK STARTS
At four o'clock a called meeting for relief work was held in the Cle Elum
"Echo" office, attended by a number of citizens from Cle Elum, Roslyn and
Ellensburg, and presided over by Mayor Balmer, who laid off fighting fire at
his greenhouses in the extreme eastern end of the city to be present. Due to
this prompt action it was possible to afford much temporary relief before dark.
A committee, consisting of Woods, Reese and Enright, was named to
survey the food supply, another consisting of Charles Duerrwachter. James
Wright and J. C. Johnson to notify the people that relief was being made
ready and a general executive committee w-as named by the mayor. This commit-
tee originally consisted of Mayor Balmer, chairman ; Simon Justhaam, John F.
iMorgan, J. F. Wagner, H. B. Joyner nd William Merriman, all of Roslyn ;
Frank Carpenter, James Walcott and H. B. Averill, of Cle Elum ; and A. W.
McGuire of Ellensburg. However, this committee was later enlarged to a
membership of twenty-five and badges of authority issued. Headquarters were
established at the citv hall and the presses of the "Echo" were set to grinding
out a proclamation by the mayor, which was widely distributed.
SHERIFF ON THE SCENE
Dejnity Sheritt Taylor arrived early from Ellensburg with a few men and
on No. 1 Sheriff Garrison brought up fifteen deputies to patrol the fire district.
The executive committee decided not to call for troops at least at once but the
governor was wired the main facts of the situation, first by Prosecuting Attorney
AIcGuire and later by Mayor Balmer.
A transportation sub-committee was named with Aaron Reese of the Sun-
set Auto Company as chairman and also a food committee headed by ]\I. B.
Doolittle, who went to work without delay to take care of people. The Sunset
Cafe, in charge of Mr. Czerny, its former proprietor, was opened as a relief
feeding station and long before dark the work of relieving the hundreds of
destitute and hungry was vigorously under way. Chairman Greenburg of the
Cle Elum Valley Defense League was also put into service early in various
capacities and as rapidly as possible Mayor Balmer extended his field of opera-
tions with the most competent help he could obtain as volunteers.
ROSLYN DRILL SQUAD OUT
The volunteered services of the recently organized drill company were
HISTORY OF YAKniA VALLEY 769
accepted to help guard the city and under Captain Bates went on duty as deputy
sherilYs before dark. They served all night faithfully during the critical
period, some twenty of them, armed with loaded rifles. Streets were closed
through the district except to those showing properly signed passes.
ONLY P.\RTI.\L DARKNESS
Thanks to the swift and most welcome service of the N. W. L Company's
electrical department under Superintendent Brooks, enough wires were hooked
up to furnish the city with house lights before nightfall, which was a pleasing
surprise in view of the tangled and burned condition of the wiring. No street
lights were possible, however.
It was a desolate scene that the red glowing embers of the great fire showed
when finally darkness settled over the city. Gaunt ruins arose like skeletons
through the drifting smoke and haze and the fireswept ground resembled a
great encampment of many flickering fires. The guards paced back and forth
in light and shadow carrying their guns and over all sombre silence lay after
a violence that would compare well with a battleswept field the night after.
RED CROSS ARRIVES
Following telegraphic communication representatives of the Northwest De-
partment of the American Red Cross arrived at midnight from Seattle. They
were F. P. Foisie, chairman of civil relief work, and associate members David
F. Tilley and Earl Kilpatrick. After a session with the executive committee
they ordered 2,000 blankets, 200 portable stoves for cooking, and cooking utensils
from the coast for immediate shipment and accepted the offer of the Adventist
Society for tents to come from different camp meetings just ended in different
parts of the state.
TELEPHONE WIRES OPEN
The Pacific Telephone & Telegraph Company deserves great credit for
opening its station here early in the evening, which had been practically burned
when the fire struck the State Bank Building. Long distance communication
was first established east and west, this being an important junction station, and
this enabled committees to get into personal touch with outside people. So
rapidly did the wire men do their work that Wednesday morning the remain-
ing business houses in the city were also connected up, as well as many residences.
ELLENSBURG FOOD MEN HELP
During Tuesday evening the EUensburg canteen committee of the Red
Cross under Chairman Reynolds offered its services to Cle Elum and was put
to work with the local food committee to make sandwiches and prepare coffee
for Wednesday's breakfast among the homeless.
OFFERS OF HELP
One of the first telegrams from outside cities to arrive was from Ole Han-
son, mayor of Seattle, who wired as follows:
(49)
770 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Seattle, Washington, June 25, 1918.
Mayor of Cle Elum, \\' ashington :
Seattle stands ready to help your stricken city with anything you need.
Wire me at once how we can help. Fire Marshal Bringhurst leaving for your
city on midnight train to represent Seattle. Wire answer care Post-Intelligencer.
Ole H.xnson, ^[ayor of Seattle.
Others received were :
Olympia, Washington, June 25. 1918.
Hon. Arthur McGuire, Prosecuting Attorney Kittitas County, Cle Elum, Wash-
ington :
Your message received and I have directed Adjutant General Moss to im-
mediately get in touch with situation in Cle Elum and render every possible
assistance. I have placed matter of relief entirely in his hands. Get in touch
with him. Also keep me advised.
Ernest Lister, Governor.
Olympia, Washington, June 25, 1918.
The Mayor, Cle Elum, Washington :
I have directed Adjutant General Moss to render every assistance possible
to Cle Elum and its people. He will get in touch with you. I desire to extend
my sympathy to you and through you to the people of Cle Elum and express
to the people that the balance of the state may be able to make your burden,
much lighter by the prompt response that will be given in the meeting of your
immediate necessities. Ernest Lister, Governor.
Ellensburg, Washington, June 25, 1918.
Mayor Balmer, Cle Elum, Washington :
Two trucks loaded with potatoes and other vegetables are now on the road.
More to follow tomorrow.
Samuel Kreidel, ]\Iayor.
Seattle, Washington. June 26, 1918..
IMayor, Cle Elum, Washington :
We desire to extend on behalf of Seattle business interest expression of
sincere sympathy with your community and assure you that we stand ready
to do anything which may be serviceable in helping to meet your trying prob-
lem. This organization is prepared to cooperate with the mayor, the governor
and the Red Cross or any other properly constituted agency serving your needs.
Se.attle Chamber of Commerce and Commercial Club.
Seattle, Washington, June 26. 1918.
Mayor Balmer, Cle Elum, Washington :
Accept deepest sympathy yourself and citizens in this sad calamity. Have
despatched two representatives, officers, to assist you in conducting relief work
throughout city, arriving today.
Colonel T. W. Scott, Salvation Army.
Yakima, Washington, June 26, 1918.
Hon. J. A. Balmer, Mayor of Cle Elum, Cle Elum, Washington :
For and on behalf of the citizens of Yakima I extend the sympathy of all
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
771
to you and your people in your recent disaster. We are ready and willing to
do all we can to assist and lend comfort to your stricken ones. Yakima is
with you and in what way can we best serve you?
Forest H. Sweet, Mayor.
Seattle, Washington, June 26, 1918.
Mayor Balmer, Cle Elum, Washington:
Sorry to hear of the misfortune to the city of Cle Elum. If I can help
in any way notify me.
J.^MES B.\GLEY, State Aline Inspector, Alaska Building.
HELP FOR MERCHANTS
LTpon recjuest the state food administrator, through his assistant, Mr. Beck,
of Seattle, Wednesday morning offered relief to local merchants by eliminating
restrictions in the way of purchasing supplies. This relieved what might have
been a serious situation since the majority of the stores of the city were burned
completely. Closing regulations for stores are off for the time being and those
needing supplies of any kind may buy at any time outside of regular hours.
Block
Block
Block
Block
Block
Block
Block
Block
Block
Block
School.
Block
Black
Block
Black
Block
Block
Block
Block
Block
Block
Block
Block
Block
BURNED AREA
7, O. T. — All burned but First National Bank and Kinney Building.
8, O. T. — All burned but Cle Elum State Bank and Cle Elum Laundry.
9; O. T.— All burned.
24, O. T.— All burned.
2, Hazelwood addition — All burned.
9, Hazelwood addition — All burned.
12, Hazelwood addition — All burned but one house.
19, Hazelwood addition — All burned.
22, Hazelwood addition — All burned north of alley.
23. Hazelwood addition — All burned but one house and Hazelwood
18, Hazelwood addition — All burned.
13, Hazelwood addition — All burned.
8, Hazelwood addition — All burned.
3, Hazelwood addition — All burned.
23, D. T. — All burned but the northwest quarter of block.
10, O. T. — All burned but seven houses.
11, O. T. — One building burned.
17, Hazelwood addition — Four houses burned.
25, O. T. — East half north of alley burned.
24, O. T.— One-half burned.
I. Hazelwood addition — North half burned.
10, Hazelwood addition — All burned north of railroad.
II, Hazelwood addition — North half burned.
BUSINESS HOUSE LOSSES
Oblak & Maver, cigar store; Rose Theatre; George H. Moss, notion store:;
772 HISTORY OF YAKIMA A'ALLEY
Charles Hugg, confectionery- ; Carver's notion store : B. DeMark, tailor shop :
M. W. Davies, jewelry ; A. Curto, glazier ; Cava's barber shop ; Costello & Duffy,
clothing : Ira iMathus, produce store ; A. J. Scheie, grocery : Horseshoe Cigar
Store ; J. E. Werlich & Son, hardware ; J. V. Hoeffler, law office ; T. M. Jones,
general merchandise : T. M. Jones, undertaking parlors ; C. J. Trucano, hard-
ware; Cle Elum Creamery, Robert Reed, proprietor; Haines & Spratt, hard-
ware ; Miss Haltern, millinery ; Deonigi Mercantile Company, general store :
Bettassa & Rou, bakery and store : Torino Cigar Store, Charles Buttignoni, pro-
prietor : John Pricco, bakery and general store : Joe Schober. bakery and gen-
eral store : A. Oberto, soft drink place ; Dotteschini & Dongoro, soft drink
place; Wayne Ballard, meat market; Muss & Ballone, soft drink place: Cerollo
& Odonin, soft drinks : Mike Amobile, shoe shop ; A. Crestanello, general store :
A. S. Paul, planing mill; Miller & Short, sawmill and lnm1)er yards; Telephone
station, partly burned.
OTHER PLACES
Masonic Temple, cost $10,000, 1914: Foresters' Hall: Eagles' Hall: City
Public Library : Second Ward Fire Station ; Catholic Church and Rectory : Pres-
byterian Church : Greek Church.
E.\STON doesn't FORGET
From Johnson Brothers at Easton the following generous contribution has
arriverl. a mighty good showing from a little town, along the line of food sup-
plies only : Ten sacks potatoes, eight sacks of flour, two sacks of rolled oats,
five cases of milk and one sack of beans.
THORP helps
The farming village of Thorp has sent up three loads of farm products
which have been highly acceptable to the relief headquarters.
Yakima's contribution
Through the Yakima Red Cross organization the following was sent to
Cle Elum, arriving yesterday morning : Three cases of butter, six cases of eggs,
one case of sausage, four cases of bacon, two cases of lard, two cases condensed
milk, two cases of coffee, one case of ham, and eight cartons of bread.
Under the leadership of Mrs. H. M. Gilbert, members of Yakima's women's
clubs organized a relief movement Thursday and with marvelous speed as-
sembled two truck loads of clothing that were sent on the afternoon trains.
The remainder came on the night train and filled the Cle Elum relief head-
quarters with joy upon arrival. All day yesterday and today this clothing was
distributed and it was of unusually good quality, much of it new. Yakima's
contributions have won for that city a warm place in local esteem which will
not soon be forgotten and the generosity of the gifts was only equaled by the
promptness with which they were delivered. Yakima proved to be a true friend
in need.
"cle elum echo" editorials — REBUILDING OUR BURNED CITV
The problems of reconstruction are with us and will be for some time to
come but in this as in all other great tasks, the old axiom holds true : "Well
begun is half done." That a more substantial and better Cle Elum will arise
from the ashes of last week's catastrophe we can safely predict. Cle Elum has
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY Hi
the resources behind it to warrant not only the rebuilding of all destroyed prop-
erty but better buildings, and a larger city in every respect. The great fire
marks the passing of the pioneer period in our history : we now enter the real
constructive and development period. As the gateway to the richest bituminous
coal mining field in the Northwest, and perhaps the largest uncut timber district
on the eastern slopes of the Cascades in this state, a prosperous future should
be assured us. As the commercial center of the upper Yakima Valley and a
railway center on both the Northern Pacific and Milwaukee Railways, our
business and residence advantages are exceedingly good. Therefore we should
build and are warranted in building on a permanent basis.
The best evidence that we know of our business situation is to be found
in the readiness with which wholesale houses all over the state are willing to
replace stocks here on a generous credit basis. Cle Elum's credit is good.
Neither of our banks suffered seriously from the fire and both are disposed to
do everything within safe financing to reestablish business and encourage first
class construction. Together they represent around a million dollars in assets.
Leading all business construction stories is the announcement that M. P. Kay
has now acquired the entire corner of Pennsylvania Avenue and First Street,
covering 105 feet of frontage on Pennsylvania and ninety feet on First Street,
and promises the erection of a modern two-story block. One block farther
down First Street, Joe Schober and T. M. Jones, both pioneer business men,
have already begun the erection of fifty foot front concrete buildings. Prac-
tically all of the business houses burned out will reenter business.
The reconstruction of homes is our chief concern, followed closely by the
erection of public buildings and the improvement of our water system. Several
hundred thousand dollars are required to rebuild and reestablish the homes
destroyed. A considerable portion of this the unfortunate losers themselves
will be able to furnish under proper encouragement, but most of it will have
to be borrowed. The financing of home building operations is the urgent need
of the hour because it takes time to put up these houses. Building material is
exceedingly difficult to get in quantity : workmen are scarce. Cold weather
comes early in the mountains and without comfortable homes, the people will
not remain here. So we must get busy and keep busy.
The generous offer of the Northwestern Improvement Com])any through
General Manager Andersen to put lumber in quantities down here at cost for
these home building operations is the most important single step yet taken in
solving the home problem. It may restrict, if taken advantage of, private enter-
prise to some extent but its importance to fire sufferers is too great to permit
it to be lost to the people. There will still be left the business district, public
buildings and the normal expansion of the city for private lumber dealers, in
addition to which not all home builders will take advantage of the company's
offer for various reasons. We think there is no desire to hurt local business
men or mill owners around here in any way, but there must be a realization
that a crisis exists. It is only with a realization of this condition and the fact
that an enormous amount of lumber must be gotten here hurriedly that the
company made its offer and it will not stand good long. The elimination of
profit is the company's affair solely and for this policy all who suffered from
774 HISTORY OF YAKIAIA VALLEY
the fire in losing homes will be very grateful. The Northwestern Improvement
Company is able and willing to assist its own employes in rebuilding and is
simplv extending its assistance to others because a distressing condition prevails
in a town wherein it has heavy interests. Should this cooperation now be taken
advantage of it mav lead to further substantial help and bring the big company
into closer sympathy with the city's general interests. It's a good time to get
together.
The mayor has named a ways and means committee of citizens to advise
with city officials in taking hold of the entire situation and it is up to this body
now to closely consider all problems arising from the fire disaster and solve
them the best way possible. The Homebuilders' Loan Association is on the
right track with an excellent plan of organization, but not much progress has
yet been made. It should be pushed with vigor into action or else dropped
quicklv so that the people may know how to plan and may figure on getting
needed loans from other sources. Action is what we need to get the rehabilita-
tion of Cle Elum under way before people become undecided and dissatisfied
and while we may yet interest the outside world in helping us. We need that
help because no town of this size can adjust itself to a loss of $700,000 to $750,-
000, the largest item in which is in the complete destruction of homes, upon
its own resources excepting in a slow and painful way.
MIXERS COME TO THE FRONT
It is an assured fact that shortly thousands of dollars subscribed by miners
of this state and others, for fire relief work in this city will be gathered through
the activity of the United Aline Workers of America. They have had probably
160 members, nearly all family men, burned out here, involving several hundred
of their people and they purpose to extend them every possible and reasonable
help. The funds will be carefully expended where actually needed under the
supervision of their state officials working with the local unions.
One important fact regarding this fund should not be lost sight of, namely,
that it will be expended in a broad and generous spirit characteristic of miners.
Primarily it is intended to relieve miners and their families in distress but it
may also be used for the relief of others in needed cases. President Flyzik
will be here Saturday morning from Seattle to consult regarding the distribu-
tion of such funds. The miners have suggested to Jilayor Balmer that he name
a committee of citizens to act jointly with their committee in distributing relief
funds, throwing all relief money sent here into one general relief fund. This
is their plan. The Northwestern Improvement Company has offered a $2,000
contribution to the relief fund with the sole stipulation that the miners shall
have equal representation on any board distributing it and other contributions
will likely come to Cle Elum. We can see no reason why such a plan for co-
operation between the miners and others for relief purposes cannot be worked
out in a satisfactorv- and mutually advantageous way, particularly as many
people besides miners suiTered from the fire and need and must have assistance.
Some counter proposals have been made, including the decision of the mayor
that the civic relief committee of the local Red Cross organization shall have
charge of all relief work in future.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 775
As the United Aline Workers in this state have between 4,500 and 5,000
members and more than 400,000 in the United States, and every one of whom
has received official notice of the fire here and a call for aid, the power of that
organization to help Cle Elum at this time is worth serious thought.
The coal industry is the foundation of Cle Elum's existence, and it is
therefore of interest historically to recall that in 1894 a company consisting of
Oscar James, Isaac Davis, Charles Hamer, and James Smith, made a bargain
with Mr. Gamble to run a shaft on his place for the purpose of a test of the
coal deposits. They had a forty-year lease on the place and did a considerable
amount of construction work. In 1900, the Northwestern Improvement Com.-
panv acquired the lease, and immediately made large improvements, as a result
of which the mines have come to be one of the greatest factors in the busi-
ness of the comity.
CLE ELUM HISTORY
We learn from the city clerk, O. O. Haltern, certain valuable and interest-
ing facts about the municipal history of Cle Elum. The city government was
organized February 19, 1902. The first officers and councilmen were as follows :
Date of formation of city government, February 19, 1902. First mayor,
clerk, treasurer, and other officers, and council : Thomas L. Gamble, mayor ;
councilmen: M. C. Miller, Robert Thomas, D. B. Eurcham, Elijah Kermeen,
Maro P. Kay; treasurer, Alonzo E. Emerson. The last named was also clerk.
The present mayor and officers and councilmen are these : J. A. Balmar,
mayor ; O. O. Haltern, clerk : F. Duft'y, treasurer ; J. Y. Hoefifier, attorney : D.
B. Perrow, street and water commissioner: S. E. Bunker, chief of police: L.
Bunker and J. Arnold, policemen; councilmen, J. Lanigan. J. Schober, J. Wol-
cott, M. Kauzlarich, S. E. Enright, M. P. Kay, A. Reese.
We obtain from the "Echo" of November 8, 1918, a statement of the
results of the primary election just closed.
"W. F. Lewis, who in the past has served the city several times as mayor,
will in all likelihood be Cle Elum's ne.xt mayor, as with only one ticket in the
field he defeated A. J. Scheie Tuesday at the primaries by a vote of 264 to 115.
Neither candidate made his stand on a regular election platform and the cam-
paign was devoid of exciting features on this account. The regular election^
December 3d, will present only one candidate to vote for and if there is any
further falling oft' in the number of voters who express themselves, election
clerks will be put to it to keep from believing that they have not been deceived
as to the date of the election. When Judge Trucano, inspector of the Second
ward, finished counting the ballots last Tuesday night in the city hall, he could
scarcely believe that only 251 votes had been cast for mayor in view of Clerk
Haltern's assertion that 732 were registered in that ward. With no opposition
oh election day it will be dull indeed, merely a rubber stamp endorsement of
the primaries.
"Quite a contest started a few days ago for the clerkship but Gwynn Davies
found the sticker path a most difficult one to follow and Oscar Haltern was
renominated by about the same majorit\- as Lewis. R. A. Wilcox polled a
776 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
much higher vote against J. V. Hoeffler but was still behind fifty-seven votes
at the final count. C. L. Kelso had no opposition for the treasurership.
"For councilman there were two contests and both were won by decisive
majorities. In the First ward Lou Carr defeated M. A. Schultz by twenty-
seven votes and in the Second ward Dom. Crosetti won handily over E. F.
Davis by even a larger majority. John Lanigan was renominated councilman-
at-large without opposition and James Wolcott had no opposition in the First
ward for the two-year tenn as councilman. Both are now on the council. In
the Second ward Aaron Reese, now on the council, and Mike Padavich were
nominated also without opposing candidates. Both are up for four-year terms.
Carr gets the four-year term in the First ward.
"The registration in the First ward was 280 according to the city clerk's
figures and in the Second ward 7i2, with a total of only 379 votes cast for
mayor, or practically thirty-seven per cent.
OFFICIAL RESULTS
"First ward — Mayor, Scheie, 35, Lewis 9i ; city clerk, Haltern 94, Davies
30 : city treasurer, Kelso 97 ; city attorney, Hoeffller 79, Wilcox 47 ; councilman-
at-large, Lanigan 110: councilman, four-year term, Schultz 49, Carr 76: coun-
cilman, two-year term, Wolcott 95, Schober 1, Miller 1.
"Second ward — Mayor, Lewis 171, Scheie 80: city clerk, Davies 79, Haltern
166: city treasurer, Kelso 207, Ben Pays 1, Mrs. Pays 1: city attorney, Wilcox
118, Hoefifier 143: councilman-at-large, Lanigan 236: councilman, four-year term,
Padavich 179, Reese 176.: councilman, two-year term, Davis 65, Crosetti 173.
"Matt Kauzlarich is the only councilman now in service who holds over. He
is from the First ward."
We derive also from Mr. Haltern some miscellaneous information of value.'
Cle Elum has a municipal water system derived from two sources. One, com-
pleted in 1903, conveys water from mountain springs four miles distant. The
other, established in 1907, carries a supply from a point on the Cle Elum River,
nine miles distant.
We find several churches, though they suffered sadly in the great fire and
are at the present time somewhat disorganized. The Catholic Church, of which
Rev. Father Alfred Gendreau is pastor, lost their building in the fire, hut are
rebuilding. Rev. E. L. Powlesland is pastor of the Baptist Church. There is
a Methodist Church, but at the present time without a pastor. Rev. Mr. Stewart
is the Presbyterian minister, but the church was destroyed in the fire. There
is also a Greek Catholic organization, but the building was burned and there
is now no pastor.
"the CLE ELUM ECHO"
There is a fine local weekly paper, the "Cle Elum Echo," from which we
have already quoted, edited and managed by Harrv B. .^verill, and published
by The Miner-Echo Publishing Company, a paper that would be a credit to a
much larger city.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 777
Several fraternal societies have lodges, but all of them lost their homes
in the great fire of July. The Masonic Lodge No. 139, of which J. Williams
is secretary, is now rebuilding its lost place of meeting. The Odd Fellows have
a lodge, of which J. Brown is secretary. The Knights of Pythias are also repre-
sented and J. Schober is secretary. The Red Men have a lodge, and Joe
Schober is secretary. H. Burge is secretary of the local aerie of Eagles. The
Foresters, Italian lodge, Slavonian lodge, and Moose Lodge No. 6)83, are also
found.
SCHOOLS
Cle Elum has schools which are a just object of pride to the town. We
learn from Prof. G. I. Wilson, city superintendent, that the high school was
initiated in September, 1909. The building bore the name, High School — 1904,
but as a matter of fact there was no work beyond the grades until 1909. The
present school board consists of M. W. Davies, C. S. Enright, and Joseph
Schober. The principal of the high school is Herman Pfeifer. In the year
closing with June, 1918, there were enrolled 685 pupils. The fire was the cause
of so many people leaving the place as to diminish the opening attendance of
the Fall of 1918 by nearly two hundred.
The traveler sees on every side in Cle Elum signs of the ravages of the
fire, but the courage and enterprise of the citizens are equally in evidence, and
the town is steadily rebuilding. Before the fire the population of Cle Elum was
estimated at 3,650.
One of the most interesting features of Cle Elum is the rose garden and
greenhouse of Mayor J. A. Balmer. This is the foremost enterprise of the
kind in the entire Yakima \'alley. Professor Balmer was for several years one
of the faculty of the State College at Pullman. His department was biology
and he was an authority on floriculture. Becoming convinced that a profitable
and attractive business might be created in the production of roses he studied
the question of location and decided that Cle Elum had advantages over any
other point in the state. He therefore established himself there about eighteen
years ago, and has found his judgment amply vindicated by the results. The
peculiar advantages of which Professor Balmer availed himself were these.
He secured a tract of land on the south side of a rocky hill, thus insuring heat,
with a fine stream flowing through.
His place is within a quarter of a mile of the mouth of a coal mine and
he can secure coal at the lowest wholesale rates. By the Northern Pacific Rail-
road and more recently by the Milwaukee, he has quick and frequent transit
both ways, to Spokane eastward and to the Sound cities westward. His main
market is Seattle. His specialty is the choicest of rose buds, and he has never
yet been able to keep up with the demand for his rose products.
ROSLVN
From Cle Elum we may proceed by rail or auto, or as we may please, on the
highway, to the larger tw^in of the King Coal family, Roslyn. A branch of
778 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
the Northern Pacific Railroad was completed from Cle Elum to the earlier
coal mines, about four miles distant, in November, 1886. There has been a
paved highway for many years joining the two towns. But though twins to
all intents and purposes — though Roslyn is somewhat older and larger — these
lusty offspring of their sooty-faced progenitor are as unlike as twins well could
be. The traveler rubs his eyes as he penetrates into the environs of Roslyn
and wonders where he is. Cle Elum, though a lumber and mining town, was
laid out and built after the usual American fashion, but Roslyn — one would
certainly think that he was in a Pennsylvania or Colorado mining center. The
narrow, crooked streets, the little houses perched up on top of rocky hills, the
sidewalks upon stilts or twisting around the sides of gulches, the cosmopolitan
population, — all the sights compose a view so utterly unlike anything else in
the entire Yakima X'allev as to be like a section of another world accidentallv
dropped down.
Roslyn has had essentially the same reason for existence and the same
basic industries and largely the same racial composition as Cle Elum, but con-
ditions of site and growth have caused the wide divergence in building and
appearance.
A creek, with not so foreign a name as many of the inhabitants, being
nothing more singular than Smith Creek, descends from the ragged hills to
the Yakima. In the broken region onward toward the lakes there was much
prospecting in early days, at first for gold and silver. Indications of coal
appeared, but the\- seem at first to have attracted little attention. According
to J. B. Menzies in an article in the "Coast" for May, 1908, which we have
quoted elsewhere, the first prospecting was done in 1881 under the supervision
of Mr. Baih' Willis, "though coal had been discovered some years earlier."
Nis Jensen mined the first coal in 1885 and hauled it to Ellensburg. In 1886
a party of Northern Pacific Railroad engineers explored the region, finding
prospects that encouraged them to locate the branch line and make all prepara-
tions for handling the output of the prospective coal mines. By the terms of
the railroad land grant the company owned every other section. In pursuance
of the usual policy of locating townsites, ISlr. Logan M. Bullitt, vice president
of the Northern Pacific Coal Company, platted a site on Section 17, Townshi]:)
20 North, Range 15 East, just at the mouth of the mine which had been opened
up. The filing papers were presented at Ellensburg on September 30, 1886.
The name of Roslyn was selected by Mr. Bullitt, from the Summer home of
William Cullen Bryant. The coal company was thus the practical proprietor
of the new town, and of course made every efl:'ort to draw business and
population.
A store, with its then indispensable adjunct, a saloon, was Ijuilt by the
company in August, 1886. Rather curiously the .deeds of the company pro-
hibited using any of the new lots as locations for saloons. The reason was
not, however, to preserve the morals of the community, but to preser\'e their
own monopoly. Other drinking places speedily grew uj) on lands outside of
the company site, and as a final result the company ceased all efforts to enforce
its original undertaking.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY • 779
FIRE AND STRIKE
It seems to be a part of the necessary history of mining towns that they
have eras of crime and calamity. Roslyn has been no exception. The year
1888 was signahzed by a destructive fire on June 22d, entaihng a loss of $100,-
000. Later in the year the great strike in the mines, engineered by the Knights
of Labor, shook the coal region from center to circumference. There was
much loss on both sides and many acts of lawlessness which spread to Cle
Elum and even affected conditions as far away as Ellensburg. IMany negroes
were imported as strike-breakers, and the traveler is surprised even now at
meeting so large a number of negroes in Roslyn and to some degree in Cle
Elum and even in Ellensburg, an unusual sight in eastern Washington.
In May, 1892, a terrible explosion of gas occurred in Mine No. 1, by which
forty-five men lost their lives. Though it was claimed that the mine was pro-
vided with every sort of improved safeguard and that the accident resulted
from the criminal carelessness of a certain miner, the jury found the explosion
to be due to deficient ventilation. The coal company finally compromised the
damage suits brought against it, suffering a severe loss thereby.
BANK ROBBERY .XT ROSI-VX
A most spectacular tragedy occurred on .September 24, 1892. This was
the robbery of the Snipes' Bank, accompanied by murder. We find in the
"Register" of Ellensburg for ( )ctober 1st, so circumstantial an account of
this that we incorporate it here.
"Register," October 1, 1892.
Roslyn Bank Robbed
$5,000 taken by three men in broad d.\ylight — two men shot, the cashier
be.xten — 125 men on trail — two horses found — $2,500 offered for
their capture
Last Saturday afternoon at about 2 o'clock word was received here that
six men had robbed the bank of Ben E. Snipes & Company at Roslyn. The
robbers rode up to the door, three of them entering the bank, the others stand-
ing guard outside.
Cashier Abernathy was writing when the first robber entered, and turned
to wait on the supposed customer, but found himself facing a .45 Colt's revolver.
Doctor Lyons, who had just entered after the highwayman, turned to go out,
but instead dashed against a pair of Colts in the hands of the second robber.
A third confederate entered, picked up Cashier Abernathy's revolver and knocked
him down with it. He rose, his head streaming with blood, and was told to
keep quiet if he wanted to live. The third man then walked to the safe, which
was open, took out the coin and bills, shoved the money in a canvas bag and
threw it over his shoulder. The three men then went out, joining two more
men who had been stationed so as to guard all approaches.
F. A. Frasier. the assistant cashier, who was outside, grabbed a shotgun
and made for the bank, but one of the robbers stopped his progress by placing
780 HISTORY OF YAKBIA VALLEY
a bullet in his hip. A colored man was shot in the leg and several others had
narrow escapes. One of the robbers held the reins of five splendid horses and
as soon as the vault was looted, all mounted, fired up and down the street, put _
spurs to their horses and dashed away, disappearing on the trail over the moun-
tains north of Roslyn.
The sheriff was notified and organized a large posse that immediately
started in pursuit. Manager W. R. Abrams, of Snipes & Company, immedi-
ately ofTered a reward of SI, 000 for the apprehension of the robbers. This is
supplemented by an oft'er of the same amount by Cashier Abernathy, and
another of $300 by Governor Ferry.
The robbers were dressed as cowboys, and showed themselves to be expert
horsemen and gtm handlers, executing their plan in a manner that would have
done credit to the James Boys.
Saturdav was pay day at the Roslyn mines, and forty thousand dollars
arrived from Tacoma that morning, which the robbers supposed had been
deposited in the bank for distribution, though fortunately it had been taken to
the company's ofifice.
Three of the robbers were noticed by coal company officials at the depot in
Cle Elum on Saturday morning at 5 o'clock, when the money to meet the payroll
at the mines was transferred from the Northern Pacific car to the coach on the
Roslyn branch. If the car had been raided at this time the band would have
secured $40,000 more.
Pursuing parties were quickly organized at Cle Elum and Roslyn and took
to the mountains on the trail of the robbers. At 7 o'clock three of the robbers
came in contact with thirteen of the posse when an exchange of shots was
had, but owing to darkness it is not known whether any of the robbers were
hurt. The next morning three horses were found on the trail taken by the
robbers and marks on them evidenced that they had been hard ridden. Later
in the day two of them were identified as among the animals ridden by the
robbers Saturday. The other horse was a pack animal equipped with a pack
containing provender and wearing apparel.
The sherifT's posse with that of Detective M. C. Sullivan, numbers 125
men, organized in small detachments which have been moving on all the trails
during the past week. Thursday the party consisting of P. C. McGrath, J- E-
Banks, C. B. Pond and others returned, having been unsuccessful in finding
any new trail of the robbers. The Roslyn party also returned the same day,
reporting that they had followed the trail of the robbers, which followed the
high ridges to a point east of Mount Stewart, where they found the remains
of a fire where clothing had been burned, the ashes being yet warm. Pro-
visions having become exhausted, the party were forced to return. The trail
as far as followed went almost directly toward the east.
On Wednesday a man was arrested at Kent, who bore the description of
one of the robbers, and by his seeming anxiety to sell a splendid horse at half
price, evidenced that he was wanted for something. He was subsequently
released upon its being found that he was a horse trader.
The two horses captured will be brought here, and if possible, the brands
traced to some source that will identifv the robbers. Detective Sullivan ts
HISTORY OF YAKBIA VALLEY 781
satisfied that the robbers are not west of the Cascade Mountains, but have
headed toward the Okanogan country.
A long and remarkable search for the robbers followed, and an equally
long and remarkable trial, into the curious details of which we cannot enter.
It appeared, however, that the robbers were a regular gang of professionals
who had "pulled ofif" several similar performances. One of the most curious
features of it all was a letter received by Attorney H. J. Snively from Rose
Lewis, who stated that she was the wife of one of the criminals, but that she
had become tired of the gang and was determined to assist in convicting them.
She stated the criminals to be these, with their secret names: Tom McCarty,
Walluke ; Billy McCarty, Fire-foot ; George McCarty, Craps ; Fred McCarty,
Kid; Ras Lewis, Diamond Dick; Nellie McCarty, Sparta, Queen of the Forest.
In spite of the testimony the members of the gang who had been captured
and tried were discharged by reason of the inability of the jury to agree. The
next year two men were killed in Colorado while attempting to perpetrate a
robbery, and were identified as being members of the McCarty gang.
C)ne result of the robbery was to lead, with other untoward events, to the
failure of the bank of Ben E. Snipes, and that in turn added to the general
widespread financial disaster in the years 1893-94. Of that we have spoken
at length in an earlier chapter.
As detailed elsewhere the Northwestern Improvement Company has be-
come the leading operator in the coal mines. For some years past the usual
number of men employed in the mines has exceeded 1,500, with a pay roll of
$80,000 per month.
ROSLYN CHURCHES
Rosl}n has at the present time a population of about 4,000. In spite of
the mingled population, there are several excellent churches, one of which, the
Presbyterian, contains the only pipe organ in the upper valley. The pastor is
J. K. Stewart. W. A. Sharp is pastor of the Episcopal Church, and Rev. Father
Constantine is pastor of the Catholic Church. J. P. Brown is pastor of the
Colored Baptist Church. There are Methodist and Latter Day Saints organi-
zations, but no regular pastors at present.
There is also an excellent school system in charge of Prof. Wilmot G.
Whitfield, ^^■e learn from him that the high school course was established in
1901. The enrollment in all departments for the past year was 950. The value
of the school property — grounds, buildings and equipment — was reckoned by
the state bureau of inspection at $56,000. We have given in the chapter on
County Schools a list of the teachers. An excellent weekly paper, the "Cas-
cade Miner," is one of the institutions of Roslyn. It is ably edited and man-
aged by Harry B. Averill, who has the same connection with the "Cle Elum
Echo."
Roslyn has a live Commercial Club, of which J. E. Morgan is president
and James Ash is secretary.
We learn that Roslyn has had the rather unusual experience of two in-
corporations. The first was efifected in 1889, prior to statehood. In pursuance
of petitions drawn up and presented in the usual manner, according to the
782 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Territorial law of that time, Judge L. B. Nash of the fourth judicial district
granted the charter on February 4, 1889.
The first trustees were W. A. Mohr, Charles Wertz, David Bryant and
Thomas Bailey. Charles Miller was first mayor, C. F. Bonsel was first clerk,
and T. F. Meyer was first treasurer. That first charter, however, proved nuga-
tory, for it was subsequently decided by the Supreme Court that legislative
power alone could grant a charter.
ROSLYN INCORPORATED
In 1890 a new charter under state law was secured, and Roslyn became
duly incorporated as a city of the third class. The municipal issue of special
prominence was that of water. After much contention and cross-purposes a
system of pipes was laid out under municipal ownership which derived a supply
of water from springs in the Smith Creek canyon. In 1898 a larger and more
permanent system was laid out, drawing water from the Cle Elum River.
With this and subsequent improvements the water system became adequate and
reliable, and Roslyn can now be said to be well provided with the vital neces-
sity of water.
A clipping from the "Cascade Miner" of November 6, 1918, will serve
to record the latest results in the history of municipal politics in Roslyn.
HEAVY VOTING AT PRIMARIES
The city primaries yesterday brought out a strong vote, much larger than
usual at the primaries, due to the contest for the treasurership and for council-
men from the First ward. As a fair basis of the total vote cast, that for city
clerk may be taken. George T. Wake, the present city clerk, without opposition
received 490 votes. The polls opened at eleven o'clock and closed at eight
o'clock and voting took place under separate election boards at the regular
polling places, the city hall and the "Cascade Miner" office. All voters were
required to wear masks on entering the polls.
For the three councilmen to be nominated in the First ward, Joe Trucano,
Richard Hart and James A. Miller received the highest votes, John E. Morgan
and Frederick Seddon being the other candidates. The regular city election
will be held the first Tuesday in December, the 3d, but it will likely be Iiut
a mere formality, since there is only one ticket in the field.
Mayor Bannister is renominated for a second term, George T. Wake is
continued as city clerk, Harry L. Brown as city attorney and Eugene DeGabriele
as treasurer. Ben Farrimond had no opposition for the nomination as council-
man-at-large.
The vote by wards follows :
First ward — Mayor, El Roy A. Bannister, 198 ; councilman-at-large, Ben
Farrimond, 181 ; councilman First ward, Joe Trucano 155, John E. Morgan
117, Richard Hart 154, Frederick Seddon 113, James A. Miller 148: city clerk.
George T. Wake 217; city treasurer Thomas Walmsley 72. Eugene DeGabriele
183; city attorney, Harry L. Brown 208.
Second ward — Mayor, El Roy A. Bannister 259; councilman-at-large, lien
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 783
Farrimond 226; councilman First ward, Joe Trticano 151, John E. Morgan
144, Richard Hart 195, Frederick Seddon 134, James A. :Millcr 175 ; city clerk,
George T. Wake 273; city treasurer, Thomas Walmsley 111, Eugene DeGabriele
185 ; city attorney, Harry L. Brown 273.
A fact of much interest in Roslyn is the organization of the miners. The
members of the district held their election at the time of the general election.
A report of candidates in the "Miner" is worthy of preservation as showing
the personnel at the date of this work.
Miners Elect Officials
annual election for district no. 10 held yesterday throughout the state
of washington
Taking advantage of the layoff throughout the mines of the state for gen-
eral election purposes Tuesday afternoon, the annual election of officers for
District No. 10, United Mine Workers of America, embracing the state of
Washington, was held in this field and elsewhere. Results will not be known
for a day or two. The complete list of candidates for district officers follows :
International board member — Sam Caddy, L. N. No. 934 ; Wm. Farrington,
L. U. No. 237 ; Jack Gaflf. L. U. No. 2373.
District president— Martin J. Flyzik, L. U. No. 3458; Charles Castle, L.
U. No. 2373; James McGraw, L. L'. No. 2871.
District vice president — Ben Farrimond, L. U. No. 227.
District sercetary-treasurer — Ernest Newsham, L. U. No. 2257 ; John Rob-
ertson, L. U. No. 2373.
District auditors — Frank Purse, L. U. No. 2634; Thomas Walmslev, L. U.
No. 2510; Nicholas Joy, L. U. No. 2583; Wm. Morgan, L. U. No. 2510; Roy
Carson, L. U. No. 2257; E. A. Dickerson, L. U. No. 3458; Anton Schuller, L.
U. No. 3458; Fred Seddon, L. U. No. 2510; George Barber, L. U. No. 1717;
John Flemming, L. U. No. 1853.
Sub-district board member, sub-district No. 1 — H. J. Burge, L. U. No.
2512; George Temperley, L. U. No. 2583; George Lesich, L. U. No. 2510:
James Reece, L. U. No. 227; Edward Matthews, L. U. No. 2871.
FROM COAL CENTERS DOWN HILL THROUGH THE HAY CENTERS TO TKE ORCHARDS
From the rugged and wooded flanks of the Cascades with their treasures
of "black diamonds" and lumber, we pass swiftly by rail or highway to the
opening prairies of the Kittitas, dotted with great herds of cattle, green in
Spring and fragrant with the purple blossoms of alfalfa and those of various
fruits, in Summer or Autumn covered with domes of hay, or golden shocks
of wheat and buzzing with processions of mowing machines, with the sky-lines
down the valley bordered with the multiplied arms of the stackers.
It is a fair and hopeful sight and leads the traveler to the comforting assur-
ance that howsoever scanty may be the food supply in some of the unhappy
lands devastated by this pitiless war just ending, the Kittitas Valley will not
starve and will play its part in providing sustenance for those so destitute.
784 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
THE VILLAGE OF THORP
On our way down the valley we pass the fine httle village of Thorp. This
place has historic interest and preserves the name of the "Daniel Boone of
Yakima." F. Mortimer Thorp, of whom we have made frequent mention in
these pages. While there is nothing in the location to make a city, it is the
natural center of a beautiful and productive region, the upper part of the agri-
cultural section, and will always be a substantial town, developing with the
development of the country. One remembrance of special interest at the town
of Thorp is that Mrs. Melissa Thorp Splawn, second wife of Charles Splawn,
is still living near there, two and a half miles from the village, at the home of
her daughter, Mrs. Bruton. Mr. Charles Splawn is called up in many interest-
ing ways in connection with this location. He had played a very important
part in the first wedding in the Yakima Valley, which occurred in 1863 at Fort
Simcoe, he being the bridegroom, Dulcina Thorp the bride, and Father Wilbur
the officiating clergyman. Then Mr. Splawn, as justice of the peace, performed
the first wedding ceremony in the Kittitas, the principals being Charles Coleman
and Clara Cooke, daughter of Mr. C. P. Cooke, the time being 1872 and the
place being Matthias Becker's house. (It should be noted that A. J. Splawn
gives the first marriage in Kittitas as that of John Gillespie and Caroline Gerlick
in November, 1870, Frederick Bennett being the officiating justice. The story
appears in another chapter of this volume. ) Various members of the Thorp
family settled on Taneum Creek, and Milford Thorp, cousin of Mrs. Splawn,
was the founder of the town of Thorp. A postoffice was established in 1890.
In 1895 a plat of the townsite was filed by John M. and Sarah Isabel Newman.
The Newmans had located in 1878 at the place on which they laid out the town.
Leaving Thorp and its pleasant surroundings we resume our downhill
course past the metropolis of the Kittitas, where we have already made an
extended sojourn, abundantly satisfied thereby, and approach the first and by far
the longest and deepest of those curious gaps which divide the Yakima Valley
into distinct sections. Through this gap the impatient river takes its foaming
way, beautiful and wild to look at, with its alternate falls and riffles and deep
clear pools. The ragged basaltic walls and towering mountains of this great
canyon reveal the creative and moulding forces of earthquake, volcanic outflow,
and water floods, We can easily believe that old Indian legend about Wish-
poosh, the Beaver of Lake Cle Elum or Lake Keechelus, which we narrated in
an earlier chapter. But if we choose to travel by auto, we cannot follow the
trail of Wishpoosh, for there is no highway down the tortuous course of the
Yakima through the intercepting mountains.
The Northern Pacific Railroad occupies all the available space, allowing
room for the first filing on the property by the river. The Yellowstone trail
follows nearly the course of the historic old Durr toll-road across the L^mp-
tanum Mountains, down the fair and historic Wenas Valley, past the fine ranch
of one of the most honored of the pioneers, the first white man now living in
Yakima to have seen that valley, David Longmire, whom we are proud to name
among the Advisory Board of this work. Beside the Yellowstone Highway,
within a few hundred feet of 'Mr. Longmire's house, is one of the historic
to*' ^,
PICTOGEAPHS
Showing a Dart of a reuidrkable series of Indian sign painting, consisting of more than
sixty distinct figures done in lasting colors on a great cliff of basaltic columns at
the Naehes Gap, near Yakima. The present Indians know nothing about these paint-
ings, attributing tlirni by legend to tlie TTali-Ui tof: : ''ancient pecijile," spirit dwarfs
who inhabit tlie I'lili-liili :iiim : ' • jiaiiited ' ' or ''iiiarkcd rocks,'' tlie Yakima name
for the cliff
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 785
monuments erected by the joint labor of the Washington State Historical So-
ciety and the Yakima Historical Society.
This monument, we discover upon passing, commemorates the first immi-
gration crossing the Cascade Mountains and also the presence here of the
McClellan surveying party, the two events being near together in 1853.
TOWN OF SELAH
A few miles beyond the monument we come to the fine little town of Selah.
In earlier chapters we have narrated the development of the irrigating system
and resulting creation here of one of the finest belts of orchard and garden
land anywhere in the entire valley. We have the assurance of the immortal
Dogberry in Shakespeare's "Much Ado About Nothing" that "Comparisons
are odorous," and hence we shall not expose ourselves to the charge of making
comparisons, but if we wished to impress the mind of an intending settler and
reveal to him the best that Yakima or the state of Washington had to offer,
we would not be far astray in dropping him down in the Selah district.
The town is typical of the district. It is one of the very heaviest shipping
points on the Northern Pacific Railroad.
Like practically all communities in the Yakima country Selah, along with
its pleasant homes, makes fitting and generous provision for its educational,
religious and social needs. The school system is one of which many a good
sized city might well be proud.
We learn from Superintendent A. L. Thomsen that the high school was
established in 1910 and that A. E. Kliss was first superintendent and J. H.
Snyder was first principal. At present date the value of school property is
$75,000. Pupils in high school during the past year total 72 ; in the grades 343.
At present date, A. L. Thomsen is superintendent, and A. E. Curtis is prin-
cipal of the high school. There are five teachers in the high school and ten in
the grades. The names of these teachers, as well as those of the other towns,
appear in the directory in the chapter on schools.
Selah has an estimated population of 325, has connections both by railroad
and electric line, a bank, churches of the Christian, Methodist, Episcopal and
Swedish Lutheran denominations and several well-stocked stores. An extra-
ordinary amount of business is transacted for the size of the town.
One can not make any stay in Selah without wishing to return. With the
hope that our wish may be fulfilled, we will resume our journey down the valley
toward the hub, Yakima itself.
SEL.\H GAP AND PAINTED ROCKS
Passing the Selah Gap we find our way across the impetuous torrent of
the Naches, the largest tributary of the central stream and a rival in beautv and
utility. Of the use made of the Naches in irrigation, power and all other agencies
for which a river can be utilized we have spoken at length in earlier chapters.
Just above the entrance of the Naches we pass through Selah Gap, a pocket
edition of the prolonged Yakima canon, but though a very small obstruction to
the river it reminds us still of the dredeinsr undertakings of the infuriated
(50)
786 HISTORY OF YAKBIA VALLEY
beaver Wishpoosh. The auto tourist through this region should not fail to
drive up the Naches, the wild beauty and finny inhabitants of which appeal to
artist and fishermen and lover of nature alike. In the tributary regions of the
Naches, too, are some of the noblest mountain retreats, lakes, forests, glaciers,
access to the approaches of the mightiest mountains of the state, Adams and
Takhoma, and yet still farther the great government sources of irrigation sup-
plies. Bumping Lake, the Tieton, and McAllister meadows. Of all these
wonders, scenic, hydrographic and industrial, we have written in earlier chap-
ters. Yet we feel that we should not be doing right by our readers if we did
not route them through the manifold attractions of the Naches Basin. One of
the curiosities near the city is the "Painted Rocks" at the mouth of the Cowiche.
These prehistoric works evidently belong to the series of which there are many
examples in different parts of the northwest. The most striking perhaps are at
Lake Chelan. Opinions vary widely as to the makers of these pictorial re-
mains. The Indians consider them to have been wrought by people prior to
themselves.
SOD.^ SPRINGS
Of the great central valley, with the city of Yakima set like a diamond in
the middle, we shall not pause here to add to the large space it has already been
given. Yet we shall certainly insist that the tourist will have lived partly in
vain if he does not traverse the Ahtanum to the Soda Springs and beyond. He
must also note some of the historic spots, the Ahtanum Mission, the monument
of Pohotecute, the Moxee settlement at the "Big spring," where the Thorp
family laid the first foundations of an American home in Yakima. The tourist
must not fail, either, to move to and fro and up and down Nob Hill, Naches
Avenue, the Country Club across the river, and view the sights to the west-
ward, especially if it be clear enough to see the majestic heights of the two
great snow peaks.
NACHES
Several pleasant villages form centers of business and social life in the
Valley near the metropolis and are connected with it by branch railroads or
trolley lines, as well as paved highways. One of these typical centers is Naches
at the terminus of the Naches branch of the N. P. R. R. It has a population of
300, a bank, a high school, a church (Presbyterian), and several well-stocked
stores.
.•\HT.^NUM, WILEY CITY, T.MMPICO, MOXEE CITY
On the Ahtanum are three villages, centers of similar active life, Ahtanum,
Wiley City and Tampico. The first of these is the location of two historic in-
stitutions, already noted at length in the chapter on the schools and churches of
Yakima County. These are Woodcock Academy, now a part of the public
school system, and the other is the Congregational Church, the oldest church,
with the exception of the Catholic, in the Yakima Valley. Near Tampico is the
old St. Joseph Mission house. Another of the interesting villages near Yakima
is Moxee City. This is a place of about 400 residents and is the center of one
of the oldest and best developed sections of the Valley, distinguished by artesian
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 787
water. A good many of the settlers are of French origin and have the thrift,
good taste, and general intelligence characteristic of the great people from whom
they spring. A branch of the Northern Pacific Railroad has its terminus at this
place. Excellent public schools, a bank, a Congregational and a Catholic church,
and well-equipped mercantile establishments, mark this prosperous town. Of
great historic interest is the fact that not very far distant from the town is the
original home of Mortimer Thorp, first settler in the Valley.
BELOW POIIOTECUTE OR PAHQUYTECOOT
This high-sounding native name, meaning "putting two heads together" (as
of the ridges on either side meeting), has been supplanted by the common-
place and prosaic appellation of Union Gap. Pohotecute or Pahquytecoot it was
and ought to continue to be.
But under whatsoever name, it is a curious as well as historic spot. Here
are two monuments, one erected by the Daughters of the American Revolution,
assisted by the Historical Society of Yakima. The other monument was the
work of the Yakima Indians and friends to commemorate an Indian battle. As
we pass through the Gap, we note the headworks of the Wapato Canal, the
largest of the government canals, doubtless the largest in the state. It carries
about 1,200 second feet of water, though its dimensions allow 1,500.
As we pass through the famous Gap and realize the convulsions of nature
which produced it, we can not fail to think of the picture which presented itself
to Col. L. S. Hewlett:
HOW IT HAPPENED.
A thousand years ago, I guess,
At any rate it can't be less —
A mountain broke itself in two
And let a sea go rushing through.
Scared fishes turned their tails to flee
From Soda Springs to far Moxee ;
Tb.e wolves ran howling up the hills,
The porcupines rufifed up their quills ;
The little Indian girls and boys
Were frightened at the dreadful noise;
As through the Gap, with giant strength.
The flood sprawled out its frightful length.
Next morning's sun in rising saw
The valley of the Yakima.
L. S. How LETT.
-May 10, 1892.
Being fairly within the Valley below Pohotecute we discover that this area
far exceeds either the upper or the central Valley. A large part of the western
section of this area is within the Yakima Reservation. Of this, too, we have
fully written in earlier chapters. Suffice it to add here that the tourist should
not fail to visit Fort Simcoe with all its historic associations, nor should he fail
788 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
to see White Swan and the Coburn collection of Indian curios. Within recent
times one of the great auto routes has developed up the Yakima Valley to Mab-
ton and thence following the Satus Creek to the Simcoe ridge, thence to Golden-
dale, from there to White Salmon, and at that point the autoist may cross the
Columbia River to the Columbia Highway, or by the Evergreen Highway on
the north side may proceed to Vancouver and Portland.
A number of towns have grown up on the edge of the Reservation. Three
of these, Wapato, Toppenish and IMabton, have pretty nearly entered the rank
of cities.
WAPATO
This vigorous little city is in the very heart of the 50,000 acres of fruitful.
land which is watered from the great canal that we noted in coming out of
Pohotecute. That area is but a minor part of what is to come. For the gov-
ernment plans contemplate the irrigation of 120,000 acres from the gravity sys-
tem and an additional 80,000 from the pumping plant. When this quarter of
a million acres is in actual productivity, it will certainly support several large
cities. Wapato will without doubt be one.
The name of this town signifies "potato," though the original native word
applied to a bulbous root growing in shallow ponds, especially west of the Cas-
cade Mountains, a root which was one of the prime articles of food for the
natives. The town was laid out by George S. Rankin and Alexander McCready
in 1903. These enterprising and intelligent builders took up this matter as one
among a number of large undertakings, perceiving clearly the sure development
of the country. They bought the land of the Indians under the townsite law.
They also inaugurated the first bank and the Wapato Development Company.
The town now has nearly 1,000 inhabitants. There is a well edited weekly
paper, the "Independent," founded in 1906, now owned and managed by William
Verran, who took charge in 1909. There is a first-class school system, with
high school and grade schools, with an enrollment in the high school of 89 and
in the grades of 625, an enrollment truly surprising for the size of the town,
until we learn from the officers of the school that the adjoining region just out-
side the town furnishes a strong contingent. The value of the school property
is estimated at $100,000, also a surprising aggregate for a town of less than
1.000, a good many of whom are of the Indian race.
The high school was founded in 1910, at which time A. C. Kellogg was
superintendent and S. W. Ness was principal, assisted by Mrs. C. R. Duncan.
At the present date the teaching force is as follows:
C. Paine Shangle, superintendent.
High School — A. W. Wheeler, principal : Elsie A. Hartmann, Etta Adams,
E. H. Dixon.
Central School — Gerald Van Horn, principal ; Alma Flower, Bernice Fol-
som, Verl Bardwell, Jessie M. Cobb, Maude Meeker, Hazel M. Cobb, Jean
Campbell, Lillian R. Schoenberg, special teacher, music and art.
Harrah School — Caroline Enright, principal : Ruth A. Spencer, Lucile Ro-
maine.
Johnson School— Hattie Eakin.
CITY PARK, TOPPENISH
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 789
Guyette School — Iris Rueger.
Bradshaw School Carohne Waters.
Liberty School — Eula Campbell.
Leroue School — Genevieve Smith.
There are two substantial banks, one of "which is officered and owned en-
tirely by Indians. This is said to be the only bank in existence of which this
is true'. A very readable article in a recent number of Leslie's magazine gives
facts in regard to this bank which can not fail to be of encouragement to mem-
bers of the native race.
Wapato is provided with Christian, Presbyterian, Seventh Day Adventist,
and Catholic churches. As normal consequences of the hay, grain, fruit and
vegetable business in all directions around the town, it is the location of a num-
ber of huge warehouses and the amount of shipments is something tremendous.
The present city government consists of the following: Mayor, LeRoy W. Tay-
lor ; clerk and attorney, C. A. Maston ; health officer, J. H. Ragsdale ; marshal,
H. J. Sourwine; treasurer, E. H. Wagner; police judge, J. F. Niesz ; council-
men, R. M. Johnson, J. Kaler, S. D. Smith, C. H. Castor, Albert De Vries.
TOPPENISH
This tine little city may be justly entitled to the name of the metropolis of
the Reservation. We find among the folders just issued by the active Com-
mercial Club of Toppenish so succinct a statement of the present conditions and
assets of the town that we incorporate it bodily at this point.
THE CITY OF TOPPENISH AND THE Y.\KIM.\ INDIAN RESERVATION
The city of Toppenish with a population of approximately 3,000, is located
on the main line of the Northern Pacific Railway, in Yakima County, Washing-
ton. It is also the main line terminus of the Sunnyside and the Fort Simcoe
and Western branches of the Northern Pacific system.
Toppenish is the commercial and distributing center of lower Yakima
County. It is located in the center of a highly developed farming and fruit
growing district and enjoys an ever-growing trade with the surrounding terri-
tory. It is one of the largest shipping points for agriculture products in the
state, and is centrally located with reference to the cities of Seattle, Spokane
and Portland, the three large commercial centers of the northwest, which are
its chief marketing points.
IMPORTANT ADVANTAGES
By virtue of its advantageous location and the fertility and high productive
power of the' lands surrounding it, Toppenish has enjoyed a steady growth which
bids fair to continue for an indefinite period. Its people are progressive and
public spirited and have laid the foundations of the community on broad and
enduring lines.
The business section of the city is improved with paved streets and broad
concrete sidewalks. The main thoroughfares leading to the various farming
districts surrounding the city are to be paved during the present year.
790 HISTORY OF YAKLMA VALLEY
PUBLIC UTILITIES
The city owns its water system and enjoys the reputation of having the
finest water supply of any community in the Yakima Valley. The water is
obtained at a depth of 125 feet, is pumped to an elevated storage tank and is
distributed through iron mains to consumers throughout the city. The water
rates are reasonable and have been lowered from time to time to encourage
the citizens to improve their homes with lawns, shade trees, gardens, etc.
A modern sewer system likewise installed by the city, drains the business
and principal residence sections.
Toppenish is a central distributing point for the Pacific Power and Light
Company, which supplies electric light and power to a large portion of eastern
Washington. The streets are well lighted and the use of electricity is general
in the homes of the city for lighting and other household purposes.
SCHOOLS .\ND CHURCHES
The school system has been built up along modern lines. There are two
grade schools and a four year high school course, leading to any of the higher
educational institutions of the state. The high school site comprises a tract of
ten acres of land utilized in part for experimental agricultural purposes.
There are five commodious church buildings in the city and the various
religious organizations constitute an important and eiifective factor in the life
of the community.
Fraternal organizations are well represented, including the Masonic order,
C)dd Fellows, Knights of Columbus, Knights of Pythias, Loyal Order of Moose,
Foresters of America, Eastern Star and Rebekah lodges.
INDUSTRI.XL AND COMMERCI.^L ENTERPRISES
Chief among the industries of the community is the beet sugar factory,
now under construction by the Utah-Idaho Sugar Company. The plant will
have a capacity of 700 tons of beets or approximately 120 tons of sugar per
day. In addition to the main factory the plant is ecjuipped with machinery for
handling se\eral important by-products developed in the manufacture of sugar
from sugar beets.
Grain production has greatly increased in this district during the past few
years, due to the extraordinary yields produced under irrigation. To care for
the grain crops, the growers have united in financing and building a com-
modious grain elevator located on the outskirts of the city.
Other important industrial and commercial enterprises may be enumerated
as follows:
Steam grist and rolling mills manufacturing rolled oats and barley, corn
meal, alfalfa meal, etc.
Modern ice manufacturing plant.
Ice storage warehouses with capacity of 12,000 tons.
The largest nursery jilant in the state.
Fruit and cold storage warehouses.
sT()( K ().\ Till-; I'HAIvLHS lU'LL RANCH, .MAliTnN
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 791
Concrete pipe factory.
Machine shops and iron works.
Large steam laundry.
Two weekly newspapers, the "Review" and "Tribune."
Several well equipped auto garages and service stations.
Three hotels.
Large creamer}-, cheese factory and milk condensing plant.
Three banks with combined deposits exceeding $1,000,000.
All branches of retail trade are strongly represented.
We may add in more detail that the school system contains a total of
twenty-five teachers. Of this number seven compose the high school faculty.
E. T. Robinson is city superintendent and D. F. Olds is principal of the high
school. The complete directory of the teachers appears in the chapter on
schools of the county.
In order to preserve a picture of some of the contemporary events in and
around Toppenish we are including here an extract from one of the local
papers, the "Tribune," about the Fourth Liberty Loan drive and the United
War Work campaign.
TOPPENISH DISTRICT EXCEEDS LOAN QUOTA BY $47,600.00
Subscriptions to Fourth Liberty Loan total $208,600. One-third secured
during last three days of campaign. Officers are gratified — Complete returns
for the Fourth Liberty Loan show total subscriptions of $208,600 for the Top-
penish district. The quota assigned this community was $161,400, leaving a
surplus of $47,600, or 29 per cent, over the amount asked.
Approximately one-third of the entire amount was subscribed during the
last three days of the campaign. Thursday and Friday were the big days, and
when the committee met Friday night to make a check of the work, it was
found that the district had subscribed at that time slightly over $200,000.
Belated subscriptions received on Saturday and early Monday morning
brought the total up to the amount named.
The subscriptions were divided among the three banks as follows:
■ Traders Bank $ 93,000.00
First National 58.050.00
Central Bank $ 93,000.00
Total $208,600.00
The total of individual subscribers has not been checked as yet, but the
number will be in excess of 1,200, as against 996 in the third loan.
Chairman J. D. Cornett and the other members of the committee are more
than satisfied with the outcome of the campaign. They attribute its success to
the combined results of far-reaching publicity and the searching canvass of
the district made by the various teams and organization? which participated in
the drive.
The minute women and boy scouts brought in thousands of dollars and
their work was supplemented during the last week of the drive by an organized
792 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
campaign by committees made up of business men and farmers, who left their
affairs for several days to give the time needed to make the loan a success.
All of the workers are more than pleased with the heavy support given the
bonds in this community.
POTATO growers' ASSOCIATION
It is of interest to note in connection with the region of which Toppenish
is the center that J. L. Dumass. federal extension agent of markets, has informed
the author that he is organizing an association of potato growers and that the
output of potatoes for the season of 1918 in the portion of the county below
Union Gap will be from a thousand to twelve hundred carloads. This section
is known as the "land of the great big baked potato," from the fact that the
dining car service of the Northern Pacific Railroad gets its supplies here.
After spending a day in each of the more westerly towns we pass on to
the third of the group, Mabton, on the eastern edge of the Indian Reservation.
We find here an active, progressive group of business and professional men.
Comporting with this type of men we find a somewhat remarkable predominance
of substantial brick buildings. We learn from citizens that the town came
into existence in 1892, the only previous structures there at that date being
the water tank and section house of the Northern Pacific Railroad Company.
In that year S. P. Flower initiated the community by building a store and ware-
house. Edward Flower was appointed postmaster soon after. T. W. Howell
became telegraph operator in the railway station erected in 1893. A year later
Tobias Beckner equipped another store, and in 1895, a hotel was opened by
Frank Martin. The first school was opened in the Fall of 1895, Miss Lima
Piatt being the first teacher. The first regular townsite was laid out by Joseph
A. Humphrey and Mrs. Amy M. Flower. They incorporated the Mabton
Townsite Company in May, 1902. Subsequently the Philips addition came
upon the market. Mabton lies partly on the reservation and partly off. Several
important advances were made in 1904, among which we may name the building
of a new brick school building, the establishment of the "Mabton Chronicle" by
B. J. Pacius, and the attempt of the townsite company to secure artesian water.
The attempt was not successful and the development of the splendid country
around the town was retarded until the progress of the Government irrigation
systems reached the district.
In 1905 a long step forward was taken by the establishment of a municipal
government. Through the kindness of Mr. T. W. Howell, citv clerk, we learn
that the first officers and council were the following:
Mayor, T. W. Howell ; clerk, W. T. Livingston : treasurer, J. C. Sanger ;
councilmen. J. A. Humphrey, J. Beaudry, John Schnell. J. C. Phillips, A. M.
Creamer; marshal, H. A. Young; police judge, A. M. Nicholas.
We find the official personnel at the present date (1918) as follows: Mayor,
T. E. Ridg\vay ; clerk, T. W. Howell ; treasurer. Earl Larrison ; councilmen, J. C.
Phillips. J. W. Smith. Clara A. Rider, B. F. Preston, HI. C. Heise; marshaL
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 793
H. A. Young ; police judge, T. W. Howell ; irrigation master, Delbert Ward ;
water works commissioner, T. C. Anderson; health officer, H. A. Young.
The following churches have been organized and are now in existence,
though just at present date all but the Methodist, of which Rev. A. H. Attan-
borrough is pastor, have no resident pastors : Methodist Episcopal Church, Epis-
copal, Presbyterian, Catholic, Christian, Christian Science.
The fraternal orders are represented as follows : Masons, B. C. Dunn, sec-
retary; Eastern Star, Mrs. J. A. Humphrey, secretary; Improved Order Odd
Fellows, B. F. Preston, secretary; Modern Woodmen of America, C. W. Gil-
breath; Yoeman, R. M. Graham.
An active Commercial Club is a center of promoting the public life, and
of this Earl Larrison is secretary and C. D. Donnelly is president. Mabton
has an excellent municipal water system, constructed in 1908. A newly con-
structed High School building adds distinction to the town in the eyes of passers.
Nine teachers are employed, E. F. Hultgrann being city superintendent.
The population is estimated at .about 750, but the productive capacity of
the region round about is so great that the exports are extraordinarily large.
The city clerk estimates the output the present season as follows : Two hundred
cars grain, mostly wheat; 500 cars hay; twenty-five cars stock; 100 cars fruit;
ten cars wool.
TOWNS ON THE NORTH SIDE OF THE RIVER
From the Reservation and the towns which have grown up on it on the
south side of the Yakima River we must cross to the north side into the most
highly developed portions of the whole Valley, unless we except the areas im-
mediately around the city itself and near it to the north. We may traverse this
splendid section by several highways or by the branch line of the Northern
Pacific Railroad from Toppenish to Sunnyside or by the O.-W. R. R. and North-
ern Pacific Railroad from Yakima to Kennewick. To get the full appreciation of
a region which has few rivals in the Inland Empire, the tourist should employ
all of these routes.
PARKER BOTTOM
The region named above is famous for many things. It is the first culti-
vated region on the north side of the river below Union Gap. It was one of
the foremost in settlement. In 1864 William Parker and John Allen drove in
a band of stock and there finally made their permanent homes. From Mr.
Parker the name was derived. Of him A. J. Splawn says, "* * * who was
a noble generous man, very remarkable in appearance, with dark eyes and long
black hair hanging down to his shoulders, handsome, not only outwardly, but
to the core. If I were called upon to select the best man I ever knew it would
be Bill Parker."
We must not fail to see the oldest house now standing in the Yakima Valley.
A picture may be seen in this volume. It is upon the fine ranch of W. P.
Sawyer, who is himself one of the foremost citizens and builders of the Valley.
The old house — a curious contrast to the mansion now occupied by Air. Sawyer
—was built in 1864 by J. P. Mattoon.
Aside from its historic interest, this is one of the leading sections in the
794' HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
fruit industry. Just as the traveler is filled with wonder and delight to see the
sublime scenery of the upper Yakima or Naches or Ahtanum, and almost rubs
his eyes with incredulity in passing the well-nigh countless stacks of hay in the
Kittitas or around Wapato and Toppenish. so he wonders what he is getting
into when he starts through those miles and miles of apple trees and pear trees,
scarlet and yellow with the autumn hues, which face him on the way from
Parker Bottom, through Zillah and Granger to Sunnyside and Grandview.
The apple industry, which this year totals over 7,000 carloads in the Yakima
Valley, is worthy of an entire history by itself. Old timers tell us that the first
settlers experimented with fruit trees, and that within a dozen years after the
initial settlements were made in the Moxee the possibilities of fruit raising were
recognized. It is claimed that before the seventies several orchards had been
set out. Alfred Henson in 1866; N. T. Goodwin in 1868; George Hinkle in
1868; Messrs. Beck and Vaughn in 1870, and probably others, all in the near
vicinity of Yakima City, were among these early fruit raisers. Charles Schanno,
the father of Yakima City, had a fine garden and a plantation of blackberries
and raspberries in 1872. Parker Bottom was almost as early in the field as the
Yakima City settlement. It was not, however, for a number of years that the
business of fruit raising became established. One of the typical early fruit
raisers on a commercial scale, a true builder of the Yakima country, lived and
wrought his main work in the region between Zillah and Parker Bottom. This
was Mr. Freeman Walden. One of the interesting remembrances of the author
connects Mr. Walden with the Lewis and Clark Fair, at Portland, in 1905.
Mr. Walden and his wife had charge of the Yakima exhibit, while the
author served in like capacity in the Walla Walla department. Frequent con-
ferences and visits to and fro marked the Summer session. Mr. Walden had
been a teacher and then a preacher of the Christian Church at several points in
eastern and central Washington, Ellensburg among others.
In 1898 he went to Zillah and organized the first church. Prior to that by
seven years he had acquired a carefully selected body of land about four miles
northwest of Zillah, and there he, with his sons, started in the development of
what proved to be a model fruit ranch, the demonstration of the possibilities of
the country. It is proper that a work of this kind in a country of this kind
should contain a special tribute to this thorough pomologist and useful citizen,
Rev. Freeman Walden. The reader can not fail to be interested in Mr. Walden's
own account of his experiences and we include here his story as related to the
Washington Irrigation Company.
"Zillah, Washington, February 7, 1902.
"Washington Irrigation Company,
"Zillah, Washington.
"Gentlemen — Ten years ago last August I bought eighty acres of land under
the Sunnyside Canal. I paid $25 per acre for the land with the water right.
My purpose was to go into the fruit growing business. Accordingly I set out
1,200 peach trees in the Spring of 1892. I put my sons on the land and fur-
nished the capital to start a small nursery. We raised our own trees, except the
l)each trees mentioned above. Have now 3.000 apple trees, some pears, cherries,
plums. ])runes and apricots, in all about 5,000 trees. I would not take $200
BIRD'S-EYK VIEW OF SX'XXYSIDE
AXDWIEW HEIGHTS, SUNNYSIDE
I
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 795
an acre for the land now, for the amount, $16,000 at 10 per cent, would not
pay as much as the farm.
"Some years are more profitable than others, but the average is high. The
past year was one of the most favorable in the history of the Valley. If I
knew I could have such a year once in five years, and make expenses the other
four years, I should consider the fruit business a profitable one ; but I know
from experience that I can do far better than that.
"]\Iy peach crop was light the past season, but the apple crop heavy. I
keep an accurate account of all receipts for fruit sold, and find that I received
in cash, so far this year, $5,070.73. I have two cars of apples sent out and
not reported upon that will bring at least $1,000; then I have about 7,000 boxes
of apples on hand that wdll bring me about $8,000. The total receipts will be
about $14,000. All expenses can be paid for $4,000; leaving me net $10,000.
My fruit ranch is not for sale at any price.
"Yours respectfully,
"F. W.\LDEN."
ZILL.\H ;\ND GR.\NGER
The region along the O.-W. R. R. from Parker Bottom through Zillah and
Granger to Sunnyside and Grandview is almost like a continuous village, so
numerous are the stations and so frequent the houses. Every year has been
signalized by such rapid advances that any description becomes obsolete by the
time it is reduced to print. Among the many stations and villages with their
huge warehouses, where the fragrant apples and blushing peaches and equally
rosy boys and girls are in constant evidence, those that may be considered his-
torically the chief towns of the section are Zillah and Granger. Both are
singularly attractive towns. The region to the north is somewhat rolling, but
irrigated from the great Sunnyside Canal, and the whole region is well-nigh a
continuous orchard, with occasional alfalfa and corn fields and well tilled gardens.
Tasty cottages, with an occasional veritable mansion and commodious barns
and verdant lawns attest both the wealth and esthetic sense of the people.
Zillah is near the rushing river with its groves of cottonwoods and birches,
but is elevated upon a bench which breaks off in an abrupt bank down to the
bottom land. From this sightly elevation a superb view embraces within its
scope the level expanses of the Reservation across the river, edged with the
foot hills, azure in the distance, while in clear weather the glistening domes of
Adams and Takhoma dominate the west and northwest.
The laying out of the town was due to one of the foremost builders, Wal-
ter N. Granger, originator of the Sunnyside Canal, truly one of the greatest
works ever wrought. Mr. Granger, then superintendent of the canal company,
selected the townsite in 1892. The name was given the town for Zillah Oakes,
daughter of President O^kes of the Northern Pacific Railroad Company. Mr.
Granger was president of the Zillah Townsite Company, of which the other
members were Paul Schulze, T. H. Oakes, C. A. Spoflford and \V. H. Hall.
Henry Villard was supposed to have a considerable investment in the townsite.
Beyond any other town of the Valley Zillah might be said to have had the
big railroad men and promoters of the period as its sponsors.
796 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
The "first inhabitants," aside from the officers and employes of the canal
and townsite companies, were the proprietor of the first hotel, Reuben Hatch ;
George Harvey and E. J. Jaeger the first merchants; R. C. Walker, the post-
master; Arthur Knowles of the Yakima Hardware Company, and Blacksmith
Blagdon, the first disciple of Tubal-Cain on the ground. The first school was
started in 1894 and Edna Haines was the first teacher. Three churches, Episco-
pal, Christian and Methodist, came into existence during the first decade. In
1901 the Episcopal organization, under the leadership of Rev. E. J. Baird, erected
a stone house of worship which can not fail to arrest the attention of all visitors.
During a dozen years or more, while the canal system was in control of the
Washington Irrigation Company and Mr. Granger was superintendent, the com-
pany headquarters were at Zillah and there was a general centering there of both
business and social interests very unusual for a place of the size of Zillah. A
weekly newspaper, the "Free Press," was founded in 1910. Zillah is an in-
corporated town and the present officers and councilmen are these: Walter N.
Granger, mayor : W. G. Loewe, Clerk and also attorney ; E. P. Follansbee,
treasurer: W. J. Hillyer, marshal and also police judge; the councilmen are W.
H. Alsbury, C. A. Anderson, C. E. Durr, F. L. Allen, H. A. Harlen. The
population of the town is estimated in Polk's directory as 600. No one in-
terested in the history of the big enterprises of the Yakima Valley can fail to
note the fact that Walter N. Granger is a resident of the town. Unfortunately
his health has been infirm for some years. But the same activity which made
him one of the early builders keeps him still alert and active minded in the
affairs of the community. As we noted, he is now the mayor of the town.
As an association worthy of record connected with the name of Mr. Granger we
include here some land advertisements gleaned from the Northwest Magazine.
From "The Northwest Magazine," February, 1894.
IRRIG.ATED LANDS
For Fruit Growing, Hop Raising and General Farming in the "Sunnyside Coun-
try" of the
FERTII-E AND BEAUTIFUL YAKIMA VALLEY IN THE NEW STATE OF WASHINGTON
The Northern Pacific, Yakima and Kittitas Irrigation Company has con-
structed a canal 60 miles long, with a depth of 8 feet, a width at the bottom of
30 feet and a width at the top of the banks of 62j4 feet. It covers 80,000 acres
of valley land nowhere surpassed for fertility on the globe. The water is taken
from the Yakima River and the supply is abundant for all possible demands.
The solidity of construction in the dam, headgates and canal insures a regular
and permanent supply of water and is a safeguard against breaks and other
accidents.
Climate — The .'Summer climate of the Yakima Valley resembles that of the
California valleys, in the length of the growing season, the number of sunny
days, the absence of late Spring frosts and early Fall frosts and the immunity
from destructive storms. The Winters are short and not at all severe.
Soil — The soil of the valley is a rich brown loam and is of phenomenal
'I Ih I (iHAXDVIEW, BUILT BY
_Mj;s. A.XNA E. SYKES, 1906
J. M. FLEMING'S STUHE, GRANDVIEW,
1907
FIRST HOME OF A. C. FRY, NEAR GRANDVIEW, 191]
HISTORY OF YAKDIA VALLEY 797
depth. In places where a vertical surface has been exposed along the brink
of the second bench, the depth is over eighty feet, and the soil at the bottom is
just as rich as that near the top.
Productions — This is beyond question the best fruit country in the United
States for the raising of apples, grapes, pears, peaches, apricots, plums, prunes,
berries and melons. It is also a better hop country than the famous hop valleys
on Puget Sound, for the reason that the hop louse can not endure the Summer
heats and dies before doing any damage to the vines. Old hop yards in the
neighborhood of the tov^m of North Yakima have given large and almost uni-
form yields for ten years. Alfalfa is the forage crop and yields five or six
crops a year. Garden vegetables give enormous returns and are profitably
grown for the markets of Tacoma and Seattle.
Special Advantages for Fruit Culture — All the lands under the Sunnyside
Canal lie within a few miles of stations on the main line of the Northern Pacific
Railroad ; refrigerator cars are furnished and fresh fruit can be put in good
condition into the Sound cities on the west and Spokane on the east, and can
be sold in competition with California fruit in all the mining towns and camps
of Alontana and Idaho, in the towns of North Dakota, South Dakota and Mani-
toba and in the cities of St. Paul, Minneapolis, Duluth, Superior and Chicago.
The Washington growers will monopolize these markets as soon as they can
supply them, for the reason that Washington fruit is much better flavored than
that of California.
Ten Acres Enough — A settler who cultivates well, in fruit, vegetables and
alfalfa, ten acres of this wonderfully productive Yakima Valley soil, will have
all the land he can attend to and will make a good support for a family. With
twenty acres he can make a net income of from $2,000 to $3,000 a year.
Farming by Irrigation — Irrigation makes the farmer independent of the
weather. He applies just the right amount of moisture to his land to secure
the largest possible crop returns. No failure of crop is possible. The process
is not laborious or expensive. The water is turned on the land two or three
times during the growing season.
Terms of Sale — The lands of the Northern Pacific, Yakima and Kittitas
Irrigation Company are sold with a perpetual water right guaranteeing an ample
supply of water for all crops. Prices range from $45 to $65 an acre. One-
fifth of the purchase price is payable in cash on the signing of the contract.
The second payment is not due for two years. Thus the settler has time to
make his improvements and realize on his first crop before being called on for
the next installment on his land. The remaining payments run through four
years. One good crop will pay for the laiid. The company prefers to sell to
actual settlers only in order that the country may be densely settled and brought
under a high state of cultivation as rapidly as possible.
NORTHERN PACIFIC, Y.\KIM.\ & KITTITAS IRRIG.XTION COMPANY,
Tacoma, Washington, or Walter N. Granger, General ]\Ianager, Zillah,
Washington.
As is to be expected in this region there are first-class schools, well housed
and equipped. The superintendent is J. F. Hargreaves, with seven assistants.
798 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
A distance of but a few miles down the valley from Zillah brings us to
Granger, the name of which is derived from that of the distinguished citizen of
Zillah already noted.
From the present clerk, C. W. Chamberlin, we derive the following data
about the town :
The town of Granger was incorporated September 28, 1909.
The first officers were, mayor, C. W. Mentzer; councilmen, A. P. Peter-
son, E. B. Johnson, George Oldfield, E. N. Meloy and A. Rodgers ; clerk, Fred
R. Hawn ; treasurer, A. C. Snowden. Population, 1910, 500. The present
officers are, mayor, A. R. Badger; councilmen, L. C. Snyder, A. R. Auld, M. S.
Tyler, A. E. Flint and C. E. Dodd ; treasurer, A. C. Snowden; clerk, C. W.
Chamberlin. Estimated population, 550.
The town has its own water system, put in at a cost of $20,000.
It has the Pacitic Power & Light system of lighting.
O'utput of products for year, 1,250 carloads.
The town has a public library, high school, bank, tirst-class hotel, four
churches, Presbyterian, Mennonite, Christian Science and Episcopal ; several
well equipped stores ; the Granger Cannery Company ; the Granger Tile and
Brick Company, and the Yakima Valley Cider Mill establishment. It is on the
line of all the railroads in that part of the Valley. There is a weekly paper, the
"Granger Enterprise," founded in 1905 by George P. Eaton.
SUNNVSIDE .\ND GR.A.NDVIEW
From Granger to Sunnyside, a distance of nine miles, the country presents
a similar aspect to that from Parker Bottom to Granger, excepting for tw^o
marked features, one of topography and one of products. The first is the long,
narrow, curious, and as far as one can reason on such a matter, the superfluous
Snipes' Mountain. From one point of view this peculiar elevation, about eight
miles long, and from a quarter to a half mile thick, is a blemish, for it mars
the grand totality of what would otherwise be the majestic sweep of the Valley
at its widest point, near forty miles from southern to northern margin. From
another point of view, this interposing strip of uplift, like pillars between two
rooms, breaks the angular distance and imparts a pleasing diversity to the other-
wise monotonous prairie. Moreover, if future builders proceed to improve along
the lines already started at the eastern end and along the southern flanks of the
mountain, and especially if water is supplied in sufficient c^uantity to transform
the arid summits and ridges into the orchards and gardens and rose yards
which now so adorn those lower levels, the traveler of a few years hence will
pause to behold one of the most unique and attractive spots in all the \'alley.
Hence we mentally decide that Snipes' Mountain is an asset and not a liability
to the Sunnyside country.
The point as to change of proflucts as we pass on to Sunnyside from the
west is that we get out of the almost exclusively fruit country around Zillah
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 799
and Granger and get into an alfalfa and corn country. There are places here
where the Kansas farmer might almost think that he was back in the Sunflower
state. That is especially true around the fine little town of Outlook on the
north side of Snipes' Mountain, four miles northwest of Sunnyside. The
traveler must pause here to get the feel of this typical small village of the
region, one of the sort that make the Yakima country what it is. Here we
find perhaps 250 people with almost a continuous village on the slightly rolling
prairie extending many miles on all sides. A bank, a well-stocked general store,
a hotel and two churches, a Methodist and a Union Church, minister to the
various needs of the large community centering at Outlook. Though so com-
paratively small a place, Outlook has a high school and well-equipped grade
schools, Marius Hansome being superintendent, with a force of nine teachers.
We may reach Sunnyside by the Northern Pacific Railroad branch on the
north side of Snipes' Mountain, or by the O.-W. R. R. on the south side, by
a short spur from the main line. And now having reached this interesting little
city, next to Toppenish in size of the towns of Yakima County, after the
metropolis, we may note that it is sui generis of all the towns of the Valley.
There is no other like it, either intellectually, religiously or topographically. Our
readers will have the opportunity of reading an article on the founding by Mr.
S. J. Harrison, the father of Sunnyside, in our chapter of recollections. We
are therefore absolved from giving details here to the extent that might other-
wise be necessary.
As has appeared in our chapter on Pioneer Settlements, several of the
earliest locations in the Yakima country were made in the near vicinity of
Sunnyside. In 1865, the McDonald Brothers, Elisha and A. J., located on the
north side of the river, a few miles above the crossing on the Mabton road to
Sunnyside, the place now owned by Oliver P. Ferrel. The next year Samuel
Chapell located near the McDonalds. E. Bird was a cattleman in the same
region at the same time. J. B. Huntington located a cattle range just south of
the present Sunnyside on the way toward Mabton, but sold out his holdings to
Jock Morgan. This last named settler had located in the first place on the
Reservation near the present Toppenish in 1871, and ten years later he acquired
the Huntington place. John Ferrel located near Morgan. The first homestead
near Sunnyside was located by Joseph Kunz, about a mile northeast of the
present town. Soon came John Chisholm, Nat Stone, W. T. Stobie-, George A.
Matthieson, Abner Kirk and Robert Mains. Niot long after quite a group of
settlers located homesteads near the present Outlook. Among them we find
the names of W. H. Norman, P. S. Wood, B. H. Nichols, B. F. Brooks, T. J.
Cooper, Jack Williams and George Clark.
The town was laid out by Walter N. Granger in June, 1889, at the same
time with Zillah. A picturesque narration from Mr. Granger is quoted in the
History of Central Washington, to the effect that on a certain Spring day in
1889 he went out to view the country with a view of initiating the canal enter-
prise which later grew into the great Sunnyside Canal. He climbed Snipes'
Mountain and viewed all the magnificent landscape, with the untold possibilities
of those fertile acres under water. When he reached the lower end of the ridge
and saw the vast expanse of level land, his mind was made up and he determined
800 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
that there was the spot for a city. In his own words: "As I gazed on the
scene, I then and there resolved that a city should sometime be built at the base
of the mountain, for the site was ideal." The next day he rode to the nearest
telegraph station and wired for his crew of engineers. Such was the vision in
the mind's eye of this builder of great things, out of which sprang this splendid
construction — canal, farms, city. The canal was the first to be christened
Sunnyside, and the town followed that name. Mr. Granger became president
of both townsite comjianies, Sunnyside and Zillah. The site was platted in 1893
on land belonging to the railroad. The canal had just reached the location at
that time. In 1894 a postoffice was established, with D. R. McGinnis, the local
sales agent of the townsite company, as postmaster.
The financial depression of that time sadly crippled both the townsite and
canal enterprise, and the surrounding farmers, as well as the business men of
the budding city, were so circumscribed in their operations that for a time the
region was almost abandoned.
Two hotels, one built by Reuben Hatch, and the other by N. H. Morris,
were in active operation just before the collapse. William Cline and Allies
Cannon were the pioneer merchants, followed quite shortly by B. M. Brewer.
James Henderson, \V. T. Stobie, Frank Petre, D. C. Gillis and, a little later, J.
B. George, were among the "charter members" of the early business community.
In Sunnyside, as in other sections, the dark financial clouds of the early
nineties were blown aside and in 1897 and 1898 the horizon was clear and
bright. One important improvement consisted of the construction of a sub-
stantial bridge across the Yakima to take the place of Jock Morgan's ferry.
The expense was met in part from the county commissioners' funds and in part
by donations of money and labor by the people of Sunnyside.
In 1898 came the event which, above all others, stamped Sunnyside with
its unique and peculiar character. This was the entrance of the "Christian
co-operative movement" managed by Messrs. S. J. Harrison, H. M. Lichty
and Christian Rowland, for the purpose of colonization. As already stated we
have the aid of Mr. Harrison by a special contribution in our last chapter, to
present this vital part of the story to our readers, and we will therefore turn
from this most distinctive feature of the history of Sunnyside and take note of
the municipal history.
In 1902 Sunnyside became an incorporated town. The first officers and
council took their places in September of that year. James Henderson, mayor;
J. B. George, treasurer ; Henry H. Wende, attorney : H. W. Turner, clerk ; B.
F. James, marshal; Joseph Lannin, George \^etter, C. W. Taylor, W. B. Cloud,
William Hitchcock, councilmen.
The present city officials are as follows: W. B. Cloud, mayor; L. W. Bates,
clerk: George \'etter, treasurer; Ray Wilcox, marshal; George Pfister, superin-
tendent city water works ; W. H. Harrison, William Kielsmeier, J. M. Borgeson,
D. N. Wood, Albert Amundson, councilmen.
Sunnyside owns and operates its water system. Domestic water is from
wells procured in 1909, pumped to an elevation of about 180 feet above the
townsite into a covered reservoir of about 250,000 gallons and distributed
through 25,500 feet of mains and twenty-three fire hydrants. The irrigation
HIGH SCHOOL, SUXNYSIDE
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY t 801
system is separate from the domestic supply and is supplied from the Sunny-
side Canal which has its intake from the Yakima River eight miles below Yakima.
The schools of Sunnyside have been of as marked a character as its churches.
It would be indeed difficult to find a community in which there has been a more
steadfast and generous support of these vital institutions. It appears that the
pioneer public school teacher of Sunnyside was H. G. Rousch in 1894. The
school was located in one of the buildings belonging to D. C. Gillis. Later in
that year the district built the first building, known afterwards as the Emerson
School. Another building some distance east of town, called the Washington
School, was constructed shortly after. One interesting step in school develop-
ment was taken in 1903, when Districts 44 and 48, including quite an area
around the town, consolidated for the purpose of uniting in a high school. The
Washington Irrigation Company, then owning the Sunnyside Canal system,
made a donation of forty acres of land worth $1,400, while Messrs. Harrison
and Lichty gave lots worth $500. A building worth $11,000 was erected and
in 1904 the high school department was inaugurated. This school has been
conspicuous even in Yakima County.
The Sunnyside school system consists of the high school with nine teachers,
A. O. Rader being principal. The grade schools are known as follows: De-
partmental, with three teachers; Denny Blaine, with eight teachers; Washing-
ton, with three teachers ; Maple Grove, with three teachers ; Orchard Ridges, with
one teacher ; and Emerson, with three teachers — a total force of thirty teachers.
O. W. Hofifman is superintendent.
We have already relegated the church history of Sunnyside to the con-
tribution of Mr. Harrison. But we include here the fact that aside from the
distinctive feature of a Federated Church which grew out of the colonization
enterprise, the town would still be distinguished as a "city of churches."
It is stated that the "Father of the Episcopal churches of eastern Wash-
ington," Bishop Wells, held the first service in the town, the place being D. C.
Gillis' office and the time being in February, 1894. In 1904 there were ten
church organizations ; Dunkard, Presbyterian, Baptist, German Baptist, Meth-
odist, Free Methodist, Episcopal, Congregational, Christian, Christian Scientist.
It would certainly seem cause for regret rather than commendation that so
many church societies existed in so comparatively small a town, were it not for
the more important fact that six of them combined in the church federation.
These six were the Baptist, Dunkard, Methodist, Presbyterian and Christian.
This Federated Church was a great success and made the name of Sunnyside
known far and wide. With the increase of population, however, and other con-
ditions beyond our scope to describe here, the federation has been modified and
to a degree surrendered. It has remained, however, as a force and example of
conspicuous value in the history of central Washington.
The churches and pastors at the present date are as follows: Adventist,
(51)
802 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
\V. Paul Atkinson, pastor; Baptist, J. C. Havnaer, pastor; Brethren, Charles H.
Ashman, pastor; Christian, no pastor; Christian Scientist, Mrs. H. A. Webber,
first reader; Congregational, J. J. Burley, pastor; Episcopal, Frederick Luke,
rector; Free Methodist, E. H. Harman, pastor; German Baptist Brethren, S. H.
Miller, pastor; Gospel Temple, G. L. Hunt, pastor; Methodist, Andrew Warner,
pastor : Roman Catholic, Father McCarty.
When the Brethren, Coni^^regational and Presbyterian churches dissolved
the Brethren purchased the property.
Sunnyside is also a strong lodge city. There have been maintained for a
number of years the following: Sunnyside Lodge No. 49, I. O. O. F. ; Rebekah
Lodge; Sunnyside Camp No. 561, Modern Woodmen of America; Royal Neigh-
bors; Edith Lee Lodge No. 7i, A. O. U. W. ; Masonic Lodge; Fraternal Brother-
hood ; Order of Washington ; Yeoman.
Sunnyside has a library, provided with a large assortment of standard
books, and as may well be expected in a place of such character the library is
well patronized. It is recalled by old-timers that Mrs. Joseph Lannin was the
prime factor in originating the library movement. She was the first president
of the library association. Her efiforts were ably seconded by Rev. Lee A.
Johnson, one of the most conspicuous citizens of the town from 1900 to the
time of his lamented death. Messrs. Wende, Bridgman, Stewart and Perrin
seem also to have been especially efficient in promoting this worthy cause.
At the present time the population of Sunnyside is estimated at about 1,300,
but the country round about is so thickly settled that within a radius of two miles
there are over 6,000 people.
THE SUNNYSIDE "SUN"
Sunnyside is also the location of one of the strongest weekly papers in the
valley, the "Suimyside Sun". This fine journal of the alliterative title came
into existence in 1901. William Hitchcock was founder and for some years
proprietor. In 1909 it was recast and began a new stage of life, under new-
management. At present date A. S. Hillyer is editor and manager.
We take from the "Sun" of October 31, 1918, a brief item of interest as
indicating the comparative wealth and population of the towns of this section of
the valley, as shown by their assignments for the LTnited War Works campaign,
as follows :
Grandview, $2,000; Granger. $1,000; Mabton, $1,500: Moxee. $1,000:
Naches, $1,000; Outlook, $500; Selah, $1,500; Sunnyside, $4,500: Toppenish,
$5,500; Wapato, $2,000; White Swan, $500, and Zillah, $1,500.
From data secured from reliable sources we give the following as the esti-
mated production of this great productive center for the year 1918. As will
be noted this exhibit is reduced to carloads. Few parts, even of the Yakima
\'alley, can show such a record of production in proportion to population.
Exports from Sunnyside in car lots are as follows: For the period begin-
ning September 1, 1917 and ending August 31, 1918: Spuds, 512: apples, 162;
hay, 460: pears, 21; peaches, 15; onions, 1: turnips, 1: corn, 15: mill feed. 4;
sugar beets, 144: mixed fruit, 21; vegetables, 27; alfalfa meal, 26: canned
MAVIIKW STHKET, SUXXYSIDE
^
^
■ 1 Rlx.«— i
|d^g^^B
i^d j
m^^ Sbr .ss^ ^
H
^M
■si.XTii .-.■|'i;i:i;t, sinn ysuh::
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 803
goods, 4: beans, 1 ; vetch seed, 1 ; wool, 8; hogs, 47; sheep, 33i; cattle, 6: horses,
L Total, 1,510.
The energetic Commercial Club at Sunnyside has from time to time pub-
lished and distributed literature of praiseworthy character.in which are embodied
facts in regard to the varied resources of the section, and its attractions for
permanent residence.
From one of those publications we make these extracts :
SOME SUNNYSIDE PRODUCTS
RESULTS TPI.\T HAVE BEEN ATTAINED
In telling of the measure of success which has been attendant upon the
efforts of men who came to the Sunnyside district, it is believed the statements
of the land owners themselves will be of greater value to the homeseeker than
anything else that may be said. During a week's stay in Sunnyside district, the
Chamber of Commerce had an automobile at the disposal of the writer, who
went from farm to farm, and from orchard to orchard to talk with the men who
are making their homes in the valley, and who are making a success of what
they have undertaken. Their stories are worth reading. This is what they had
to say :
TWO TONS OF POTATOES FROM PIECE OF LAND 75 X 85 FEET
W. E. Knight, whose unit adjoins the townsite of Sunnyside raised |wo
tons of potatoes on a piece of ground 75 x 85 feet. He picked only the larger
ones and says that the ground may be counted on to produce twenty tons to the
acre. Prior to seeding to potatoes the land had been in alfalfa.
SOLD $500 WORTH OF TOMATOES GROWN ON A HALF ACRE
L. L. Higgins has been farming and gardening at Sunnyside for some nine
years. He is the man who is responsible for the great tomato yield there.
Plants set out did not thrive. He introduced a method of sowing and has sold
as high as S500 worth of tomatoes from a half acre. He raises watermelons,
cantaloupes, beets, lettuce and radishes. For early Spring vegetables, Mr. Hig-
gins sows spinach, lettuce and onion seed in the Fall. "Another successful, and
one of the most profitable crops which can be grown here," said Mr. Higgins,
"is asparagus. It will pay $500 and upward per acre the second year. In fact
everything in the vegetable line does well here. The Yakima \'alley is so far
ahead of the eastern country in the way of products that stories of our yields are
discredited."
POTATO CROP NETS $3,364; OTHER CROPS IN KEEPING
W. H. Norman is the owner of a sixty-acre tract near Sunnyside, and
adjoining his unit is a twenty-acre tract owned by his wife. The firm has thirty
acres in alfalfa which averages seven tons, and has run as high as eleven tons
per acre. They have seventeen acres in timothy and clover which has yielded
an average of seven tons in two cuttings for the past five years. They also have
thirteen acres in orchard with eleven acres meadow. In 1908 their potato crop
was 134 tons, which they sold for $3,364 net. In 1909, four acres in corn
804 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
yielded 90 bushels per acre, and part of the crop was sold $20 per ton. Mr.
Norman came to Washington in 1893. He paid $45 for his land, which he says
is worth $400 per acre today. When he came into the valley he had $700. ^Ir.
Norman came from Michigan. "Ten acres here are worth more than eighty
acres there" he says.
ORCHARD AND ORCHARD GARDENING ARE SOURCES OF PROFIT
W. J. Hubbard, Route No. 1, Sunnyside says: "My farm unit of twenty
acres is two and one-half miles southwest of Sunnyside. I have eight acres in
alfalfa, eleven acres in orchard and one and one-half acres in grapes. Between
my fruit trees I am doing orchard gardening. I raise tomatoes, cabbage, water-
melons and cantaloupes. In 1*'08 my tomatoes netted me $300 per acre. In
1910 they netted $225 per acre and my melons netted $135. This same year I
raised thirty tons of potatoes on two acres. In grapes, I am raising three
varieties — Aloore's Early, Wordens and Concords. They are doing well. I
picked 1,500 pounds from 750 three-year-old vines. Am also raising French
Coach horses and Jersey cattle. I have no difficulty in finding a market for all
that I can raise. I have been here nine years. I paid $127 for my land. Last
fall I sold a twenty-acre tract for $5,000. I have been offered $350 per acre
for my other land, but it is not on the market. I came here from North Dakota,
where I farmed for twenty-two years. This is a much more desirable place.
The climate is good and the crops are sure. I believe it a desirable place for
men of means, for men with a limited amount of capital, and for the laboring
man."
APPLES GROWN WERE PRIZE WINNERS AT VANCOUVER
W. W. Sawyer packed 2,500 boxes of extra fancy fruit from 225 trees of
Grimes Golden and Spitzenberg apples grown on his Sunnyside ranch.. One
car of Grimes Golden and a car of Spitzenbergs were first prize winners at the
National Show at Vancouver, B. C, and brought the exhibitor $1,100 in prizes.
With the sale of the fruit, Mr. Sawyer realized handsomely from the trees men-
tioned.
MAKES A SUCCESS GROWING ALFALFA SEED
R. K. Schlosser, living near Sunnyside, has made a success in raising alfalfa
seed. From eighteen acres he cut the first crop of hay, amounting to forty-five
tons which he sold at $5.00 per ton in the stack. He saved the second crop for
seed, from which he threshed 3,150 pounds which he sold for 16 cents per pound.
Beside this he had the straw and chaft' left, which was worth S2.50 per ton as
feed. His crop, which brought him $819, was the poorest one he has had,
according to Mr. Schlosser.
ORCHARDIST MAKING TEX PER CENT ON $1,500 PER ACRE VALUATION
J. B. Shellers has thirty acres two an done-half miles from .Sunnyside,
twenty acres of which are planted to orchard. He raises Spitzenberg, Yellow
Newtown, Arkansas Black and Northern Spy apples, Bartlett pears, Barnard
peaches and Italian prunes. Fifteen acres are in apples. Sixty trees of Spitzen-
GKAXDvi?:w iiot?:l, (;raxi)vie\v
DIVISIUX STRKET FROM DEPOT, CiRAXDViEW
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 805
bergs (one acre) netted him $1,012, and he allowed $500 for expenses of caring
for land and trees, picking and packing. Pears will average seven to ten boxes
to the tree and sell for from 90 cents to $1.25. "I can sell all the peaches I can
pick right in the orchard for three cents a pound. The variety I raise will keep
in perfect condition ten days after being fully ripe. I pick from 100 to 300
pounds from trees of different ages. I picked a ton from one tree. My prunes
net me 40 cents per crate of twenty-four pounds. I am cultivating a red rasp-
berry from which I get three crops in July, August and September. The variety
is known as the Alton berry. I irrigated my orchard once in 1910. I find I
get better results from cultivation. Adjoining my place is a tract which has not
been irrigated on the surface for eleven years. The crops get their moisture
from below. I had $2,000 when I came here. I paid $50 per acre for my land.
It is not for sale. I can make ten per cent on $1,500 per acre for my thirty-
acre unit. That is good enough for me. I know what farming and orchard
conditions are in the east and middle west. I never saw a place equal to the
Yakima Valley."
RAISES POTATOES BY CAR LOAD ; $2,500 FROM TEN ACRE.S
D. B. Eby has 129 acres under water some two miles from Sunnyside. In
1910 he had 60 acres planted to potatoes, and had $10,000 worth for sale, with
the yield running but half a crop. In 1909 he sold $2,500 worth of potatoes from
ten acres. In April, 1910, from great cellars in which hundreds of Ions were
stored after picking, Mr. Eby was sacking potatoes by the car load. By virtue
of his ample storage facilities he can hold his crop until the market is right.
He raises other crops also, his yield of oats being 100 bushels to the acre. Mr.
Eby paid $27.50 for his land and does not want to sell at $200 per acre. Success
has rewarded his efforts and he believes in the Yakima Valley.
GRANDVIEW
This newest of all the towns of Yakima is also one of the most marked
in several respects. It has one af the most sightly locations, on a slightly ele-
vated and gently rolHng surface, from which a view of miles and miles of the
greatest expanse of the valley is visible. It has made the largest percentage
of growth and improvement during the past five years of any of the valley
towns. It has a more comiiletely diversified line of productions than most any
of its neighbors. Fruit of all kinds, potatoes, corn, alfalfa, sugar beets, grain,
fine stock — everything, in fact to be produced in this climate.
Grandview, though the baby of the towns of its section, has a population
approaching 1,000. There are five churches here, Presbyterian, Methodist,
Christian, Free Methodist and Catholic.
The schools of Grandview are embraced under the heads of the Central
(which includes an accredited high school), with a total force of twelve teachers;
the Euclid, with two teachers, and the Bethany, with two. A. C. Kellogg is
city superintendent and D. M. Callaghan is principal of the high school. The
entire list is given in the directory of county teachers in our chapter on schools.
806
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
There is an excellent weekly paper, the "Grandview Herald." The paper
is owned by Chapin D. Foster and published by Fred R. Hawn.
In the issue of the "Herald" of November 1, 1918, we find Grandview's roll
of honor in the present war.
*Helge Dale
* Harry Hayes
Raymond Capps
Russell Capps
Main Esterlin
Wilbur Cragg
Clarence Macomber
Avaloah Waugh
Roy Williams
Forest Norton
John Parchen
Glen Copeland
Lonnie Turley
Claude Braullier
Clyde Crawford
Roy Rice
Roy Pettit
Donovan Chambers
Smith Greenslade
Roy Benedict
Fred E. Hayes
Sheridan Palmquist
Walter Williams
Duane Mazna
Millard McLellan
William Chisholm
R. W. Thompson-
Thad Smith
Hugh W. Counts
\A'ni. B. Eccleston
GRANDVIEW ROLL OF HONOR
Jay Ferris
Arlie B. Hayes
Earl Parks
Judson Blanchard
Claude Turley
Leonard Brown
Alfred Urich
Carlos Gates
Henry Ofterdal
Wm. A. Jalley
Ray Moon
Virgil Wilson
Harvey Brown
Randall Bennet
Jack Loop
Fred Gemmell
E. E. !\IcMillan
Earl Loop
Clarence Moulton
Cecil Hughes
Howard Crow
Ho^'t Caple
Hubbard Duncan
Fred Kingsley
Stanley Young
Kelso Kernien
Fay Eraser
Harold Copeland
Alvin Clark
Alex Park
E. D. McGinitie
Roy Anthon
Walter Dunbar
Edw. B. Babcock <
Ora C. Carrothers
Everett Penland
James White
F. C. Frederickson
Thos. H. Werst
Chas. Babcock
A. D. Roney
Karl Howard
Clarence Flory
Joe Campbell
John Adams
Thomas Phillips
Henry Parchen
Lester Jones
Arthur Painter
Martin Forsell
Archie Cochran
Henry R. Grill
Elmer Wasson
James G. ]\Ieldrum
Newell Stone
Charlie Paden
Charles De Foe
Dwight Jones
Harrv Lvtton
It apiiears that the first two named on the list have given the "last full
measure of devotion". Helge Dale and Harry Hayes. The "Herald" of the
date given contains an account of the funeral services of the second of these
two, Harry Hayes, whose parents reside in the farming section between Grand-
view and Sunnyside.
Through this section as elsewhere there will be the golden stars for the
brave bo\'s who have made the supreme sacrifice. And the redeemed world
will hold them and the homes from which they came in everlasting remembrance.
(irandview has the transportation advantage of location on both railroads.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY / 807
The output of products is immense, especially in view of the youth of the sec-
tion, amounting in 1917 to an estimated amount of 1,500 carloads.
Though only about ten years old, the town is incorporated. The present
officers and councilmen are: D. O. Robertson, mayor; J. J. Hays, clerk and
attorney; Rudolph Syverson, treasurer; Frank Elser, A. W. Hawn. A. B.
Marshall, D. X. Dalrj-mple, councilmen.
Grandview comes near being the geographical center of that portion of the
valley between Selah Gap and the junction of the Yakima with the Columbia.
It is about forty miles from Yakima and an equal distance from Kennewick.
Passing westward from Grandview we come within a verj' short distance
to the boundary of Benton County. By reason of the length of this chapter, we
will postpone our journey through the towns of the youngest of the three
counties, Benton, until we have narrated the county history.
Inasmuch as this chapter deals so largely with the productive capacity of
the region through which we have been passing from town to town, a most
important section of the valley, we will note here — though the same statements
appear elsewhere — the estimated shipments of the region covered by Yakima
and Benton counties for the year 1917.
Cars FRUIT
60 Strawberries— 48,000 crates (3, S3 S 144,000
160 Cherries— 1,200 tons (a 8c pound 192.003
170 Prunes— 170,000 crates @ 87c 147.500
8,700 Apples— 6.525.000 boxes @ S1.25 8.156,250
1,750 Peaches— 2,100.000 boxes @ 50c 1,050.000
1.950 Pears— 994.500 boxes @ S1.30 1.292.850
7 Apricots— 7.700 boxes (g SI 7.700
10 Grapes (g S600 per car 6.000
480 Mixed fruit @ S775 per car 372.000
240 Cantaloupes— 96,000 crates @ S1.25 120,000
120 Watermelons— 1.800 tons @ S20 36,000
13,647 511,524.300
VEGETABLES
200 Onions— 3.000 tons @ S40 S 120.000
40 Turnips— 600 tons @ S20 12.000
10 Green corn @ $525 per car 5.250
20 Carrots— 300 tons @ S18 5.400
25 Rutabagas — 500 tons {g S20 lO.i^DO
12 Cabbage— 144 tons @ S30 4.320
5 Asparagus— 100.000 lbs. @ Uy^c 12.500
75 Tomatoes — 85.050 crates @ 50c __, 42.525
10 Green Peppers— 200,000 lbs. @ 5c 10.000
20 Squash— 200 tons @ $20 4,000
10 Pumpkins— 100 tons @ S15 1.500
30 Beans— 600 tons @ 6c lb. 72,000
808 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
2,500 Potatoes— 50,000 tons @ $20 1,000,000
Garden Truck — Miscellaneous 25,000
2,957 $ 1,324,495
HAY
9,353 Alfalfa— 140,295 tons @ $21 $ 2,946,195
12.000 tons fed to stock in transit @ $15 180,000
$ 3,126,195
GRAINS
546 Wheat— 764,750 bu. @ $1.90 $1,453,025
1 60 Oats— 84,000 bu. @ 80c 67,200
44 Barley— 61,600 bu. @ $1.15 . 70.840
650 . $ 1,591,065
HOPS
158 3,000,000 lbs. @ 12c $ 360,000
LIVESTOCK
1,015 Sheep @ $2,750 per car $ 2,791.250
240 Hogs @ $2,700 per car 648.000
210 Beef @ $2,200 per car 462,000
40 Cattle, breeder's stock, 1,000 head @ $125 125,000
40 Horses, 880 head @ $150 132,000
6 Poultry— 90,000 lbs. @ IXy. 19.500
1,551 Total livestock ■ $ 4.177,750
LIVESTOCK PRODUCTS
72 Wool— 2,300,000 lbs. @ 45 $ 1,035,000
16 Hides, pelts and tallow 190,000
88 Total livestock products $ 1,225,000
DAIRY PRODUCTS
233 Cream— 350,000 gallons @ $1.20 $ 420,000
30 Butter— 1,200,000 lbs. @ 45c 540,000
8 Qieese— 300,000 lbs. @ 25c 75.000
75 Condensed milk— 1,500 tons @ $200 300.000
346 Total dairy products $ 1.335.000
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 809
SUGAR BEETS
285 Sugar— 8,550 tons @ 6>4c lb. $ 1,068,750
206 Dried Pulp— 3,100 tons @ $25 77,500
491 Total sugar beet products $ 1,146,250
HONEY
25 750,000 lbs. @ lK)4c $ 88,125
FRUIT AND VEGETABLE PRODUCTS
635 Enumerated as follows :
400 cars canned fruits
130 cars cider
65 cars dried apples
40 cars grape juice
Value $ 1,277;375
1,500 Lumber $ 1,000,000
31,401 $28,175,555
It may be noted that present incomplete reports for 1918 indicate a produc-
tion of a value of $35,000,000. This is for Yakima and Benton counties. Add
to this $9,000,000, as an estimate for Kittitas County and we have an output for
the entire Yakima Valley of $44,000,000, an amazing total for a region of which
the aggregate population estimated on July 1, 1917, was 98,876.
The present estimate of production for the state is about $200,000,000.
From this it appears that the three counties of our history, having not over one-
fifteenth of the population of the state, have produced over one-fifth of the output.
A remarkable news item in regard to the production of the Yakima has
recently appeared in the newspapers, coming from the most reliable sources, the
Reclamation Office, which may properly be inserted here :
IRRIGATION BRINGS GOLD FROM LAND
SEATTLE, Wash., Dec. 14.— Regions in the Yakima Valley of Washing-
ton, which were formerly the domains of the rabbit and sagebrush, have pro-
duced since the first of 1918 commercial crops valued at $40,000,000, according
to estimates made by R. K. Tiffany, project manager in Yakima for the United
States reclamation service. The lands were those irrigated by the government.
Under the Sunnyside and Tieton irrigation project alone there have been
120,000 acres under cultivation, Mr. Tiffany said, from which the crop produc-
tion realized — $15,000,000 — has paid two and one-half times the cost of building
both projects.
Now that the war is over, Mr. Tiffany believes the government will go
ahead next Spring with the famous high-line irrigation project, w^hich will result
in the reclamation of 150,000 acres of waste lands within the next few vears.
.810 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
As projected, this irrigation s_\stem will extend from Ellensburg to Kennewick
and will cost api^roximately $20,000,000, including the cost of reservoirs. If
labor proves available, ]\Ir. Tiffany says 3,000 men will be required on govern-
ment reclamation work in the Yakima Valley next year.
Perhaps the most remarkable single item regarding production for the pres-
ent year appeared in the "Oregonian" for September 4, 1918. According to
this H. R. Wells, of Yakima got close to $30,000 from his forty-acre orchard.
He had 18.000 boxes of peaches, the rest of his crop being apples and pears.
CHAPTER VII
A JOURNEY THROUGH THE VALLEY— BENTON COUNTY
PROSSER — THE TOWNSITE — ABSTRACT OF TITLE — MUNICIPAL GOVERNMENT IN
PROSSER — COMMERCIAL CLUB OF PROSSER — INTERESTING RECORDS FROM
PROSSSER NEWSPAPERS^ — A MACHINE SHOP FOR THE TOWN — THE GENERATOR
HERE — CELEBRATION A GRAND SUCCESS : A FLOW OF ORATORY — THE SPORTS
AT THE RIVER — FIREWORKS AND BALL — PROSPECTS GOOD FOR GOVERNMENT
IRRIGATION SOME ADVERTISEMENTS IN "BULLETIN/' 1905 CHURCH SOCIE-
TIES— SECRET SOCIETIES — SCHOOLS, CHURCHES AND LODGES OF THE PRESENT
— KIONA AND BENTON CITY — KENNEW.ICK : GEOLOGICAL CONDITIONS MAKING
KENNEWICK WHAT IT IS TODAY INDIANS — KENNEWICK DERIVATION — iN
1883 TO 1889 — SCHOOLS — irrigation and developments BUSINESS
HOUSES OF KENNEWICK — ADVERTISEMENTS AND "kENNEWICKLES" FROM
THE "courier" — CITY GOVERNMENT IN KENNEWICK — PETITION FOR INCOR-
PORATION— FIRST ORDINANCES OF THE COUNCIL — MAYORS AND CLERKS TO
DATE — SCHOOLS, CHURCHES AND SOCIETIES — KENNEWICK COMMERCIAL CLUB
MEMBERS, 1906 CELILO CANAL CELEBRATION — AT WALLULA AT BIG EDDY
THE SMALLER RIVER TOWNS MAY START DAM BY CHRISTMAS ASSOCIATED
CHARITIES ASK SUPPORT — APPLE HARVEST ON — BASH WINS IN HARD FIGHT
LEMCKE BRINGS IN BIG TRACTOR
We pursued our journey in the last chapter to the eastern border of Yakima
County, making our last pause at Grandview.
The splendid country around that promising young city blends impercep-
tibly into Benton County. Conditions are essentially the same on our progress
eastward to Prosser. During our journey from Ellensburg through Yakima
Canon, thence through the central valley centering at the city of Yakima, then
through Pohotecute (LTnion Gap) and onward to Sunnyside and Grandview, we
have been dropping by almost imperceptible degrees from an elevation of 1,510
feet at Ellensburg to 741 at Sunnyside. Grandview is on a slight elevation above
Sunnyside, 814 feet above sea level, while North Prosser, still on the same gen-
eral slight plateau as Grandview, has an elevation of 764 feet. From North
Prosser, two miles to Prosser, there is a long down hill over a superb belt of
land, to the falls of the Yakima River where the elevation is about 600 feet.
The difference of 900 feet above the level of the ocean between Ellensburg
and Prosser makes a marked dift'erence in climate. The steady increase of dis-
tance from the snow and ice of the towering Cascade summits has a still larger
effect on the climate.
Hence, though general conditions of rainfall, prevailing winds, soil and
products are similar, the sum of effects as between the upper and lower valleys
represents an increase of about eight degrees in average annual temperature for
the lower, and four or even five annual crops of alfalfa instead of three. We
find the country eastward from Grandview and Sunnyside to be newer and less
811
812 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
developed. The various extensions of the Sunnyside Canal system have been
working easterly, and the development follows the canal. It is a perfect poem
to see the verdure, the improvements, and the homes springing up along the
track of the vitalizing water.
PEOSSER
A little to one side of this main body of new development stands the county
seat, beautifully located on the south side of the largest fall on the Yakima
River and at the foot of the long slope running up to the heights of the Horse
Heaven plateau.
Although Prosser is comparatively a new town it is the oldest in the county
and it belongs to an earlier and a separate development from the present great
system of improvements connected with the Sunnyside extension. The region
immediately around Prosser has had over thirty years of existence, and we are
not surprised to find large shade trees, attractive lawns and flower gardens,
cultured homes and all the evidences of taste and industry. Entering the city,
either by the Northern Pacific Railroad or by auto bus from the O.-W. Rail-
road at North Prosser, or by the highway in our own conveyance, we receive the
impression of a well-built town, a satisfaction to its own people and an attrac-
tion to visitors or intending settlers. Visiting the offices of the newspapers, the
"Republican Bulletin" and the "Independent-Record" we find the editors, Mr.
Tyler and Mr. Sproull, ready to impart information to the limit of their term
of residence, which has not been, in case of the former, very long. We find
some of the old-timers, as his honor A. G. McNeill, present mayor, or M. A.
Ward, or E. W. R. Taylor, several times mayor, or Hon. G. M. Hamilton
of a little later day, and others ready and glad to impart knowledge of present
or past conditions. The county and city officers are prepared to extend every
courtesy to the seeker for illumination in their lines of activity, and a commer-
cial organization, now known as the Prosser Community Club, of which E. W.
R. Taylor is president and Walter E. Tyler is secretary, has lines of contact
with all the activities of the town and surrounding region from which the in-
quirer may derive first-hand knowledge.
From the various sources of information we obtain a connected view of
the history of Prosser. It appears that James Kinney was the first to make a
location on land now touched by the town. His location was made in 1880
above the chief part of the present city, but the residence part at the western
end of town reaches his homestead. Col. W. F. Prosser, formerly one of the
liuilders in Yakima, filed a homestead entry in 1882, and that entry covered
the main part of the present Prosser.
In 1883 A. M. Ward, now living on San Juan Island and whose son is
known to all in Prosser, filed a location about a mile above Kinney. Mr. Ward
was born in Nbrth Ireland, lived for some years in New York, and came to
(Jregon in 1868. Becoming interested in reports of Yakima, he walked through
the entire valley seeking a location. Reaching the Kinney location, he declared,
"This is where I stop." And there he filed his claim. He brought his family
in 1883, the first family in Prosser.
The next year he was instrumental in getting a school started, the first in
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 813
Benton County. Airs. Emma Warnecke was the first teacher in that school in
1884, and the building used was the one now occupied by Mr. Joe Halm. In
1883 and immediately following, a number of new families made their way to
the point which the falls of the Yakima evidently marked for a town. During
those years the following pioneer residents joined Messrs. Kinney, Prosser, and
Ward in the new location ; Nelson Rich, Henry Creason, Carl A. Jenson, George
Wilgus, and Fred Warnecke.
THE TOWNSITE
Through the kindness of Mr. W. S. Jenkins, auditor in 1906, and engaged
for many years in the abstract business, we are able to give here a copy of some
very interesting records pertaining to the original site as laid out by Colonel
Prosser, together with some other data of similar nature, which constitute in
themselves, almost a complete legal history of the early town. The extracts which
we shall give are of considerable length, some of our readers may think unduly
so, but the record is such a curious one and constitutes so unique a section of the
history of Prosser that it cannot fail to interest many readers.
Know All Mex by These Presents: That the undersigned, Wm. F.
Prosser and Flora T. Prosser, have caused the accompanying and annexed
Townsite of the Town of Prosser to be surveyed by S. B. Stone on Lots 6-7
and 11, in Section 2, Township 8, North of Range 24, E., W. M. and we hereby
dedicate the same with its Blocks, Lots, Streets, Avenues and Alleys as named
and with the areas, breadths and depths as expressed in words and figures there-
on to the use and for the benefit of the future owners of the said Lots and
Blocks of the aforesaid Town of Prosser and for the use and benefit of the
inhabitants of the said town.
Wm. F. Prosser. [Seal]
Flora T. Prosser. [Seal]
Territory of Washington,
ss.
King County,
This certifies, that on this 14th day of January, A. D. 1885, before me the
undersigned Probate Judge in and for the said County and Territory, person-
ally appeared the within named Wm. F. Prosser and Flora T. Prosser his wife,
who are known to me to be the identical persons described in and acknowledged
the same freely and voluntarily for the uses and purposes therein mentioned.
And I Further Certify, That Flora T. Prosser, wife of the said Wm. F.
Prosser on an examination made by me separate and apart from her said hus-
band, and after I had made known to her the contents of the foregoing instru-
ment, acknowledged to me that she executed the same voluntarily of her own
free will, and without the fear of or coercion from her said husband.
In Testimony Whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and seal the day
and year in this certificate first above written.
Wm. D. Wood,
[Seal] Probate Judge of King County, in Washington Territory.
Recorded Jan. 26th, 1885. K.\te W. Feuerbach, County Auditor.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
UxiTED States,
Grantors,
TO
William F. Prosser,
Grantee.
Patent.
Dated the ISth day of January, 1887.
Filed for record the 9th day of March. 1887, at 4 p. m.
Recorded in Book "F" Deeds, page 53.
Act of Congress, May 20th, 1862.
Application No. 132.
Homestead Certificate No. 90.
By the President, Grover Cleveland.
[Seal] By M. McKean, Secretary.
By Robt. W. Ross, Recorder of the General Land Office.
Description: Lots 6-7 and 11 in Section 2, Township 8, North of Range
24, E., W. M. Containing 158 85-100 acres.
(Date of record and page omitted in Patent.)
As may be seen from the records the main part of the townsite passed to
the Prosser Falls Irrigation Company. This company was related by a some-
w'hat complicated series of transactions with the Prosser Falls Land Company
and the Fidelity Trust Company. It is beyond the scope of this work to go
into the details of these many transfers, but the articles of incorporation of the
Prosser Falls Land Company of 1892 and of the Prosser Falls Irrigation Com-
pany of 1893 contain matter of much interest, and we include them here. '
W'm. V. Prosser and Flora T. Prosser,
his wife. Grantors,
George B. Haves, Trustee,
Grantee.
Agreement.
Dated the 16th day of March. 1893.
Filed for record the 27th day of March,
1893, at 9:30 a. m.
( Recorded in Book "Q" Deeds, page 49.
Amount, $20,000.
Sell and Convey.
WiLLLX.M F. Prosser, [Seal]
Flor.\ T. Prosser, [Seal]
Geo. B. Haves, Trustee. [Seal]
Witnesses : John D. Cornett.
Frank Bartholet.
Witnesses to signature of Geo. B. Hayes, Trustee.
Charles A. Murray.
N. C. Richards.
HISTORY OF YAKOIA VALLEY 815
Acknowledged the 16th day of March, 1893. By WilHani F. Prosser and
Flora T. Prosser, husband and wife.
Before J. D. Cornett, Notary Public, residing at North Yakima, Washington.
[Seal]
Description: Lots 6-7 and 11 of Section 2, Township 8, North of Range 24
E., W. M. The same constituting the original townsite of Prosser — save and ex-
cept such lots as have been sold in said townsite prior to execution of this agree-
ment: Also save and except two acres of land as near as possible conforming
to said plat of townsite of Prosser, and including and surrounding a house and
barn and property for $20,000.00 of which $3,000.00 is paid on the execution
and delivery of this agreement, and the balance in two years, with interest at 6
per cent, per annum.
It Is Further Agreed .\nd Understood, That upon the payment to lirst
parties of 60 per cent, of the selling price of any of said lots, then first party will
make and deliver a good and sufficient deed to second party and that the afore-
said 60 per cent, of the selling price shall be a pro rata payment on the whole
purchase price, and second party agrees to pay all taxes which may become due
on said premises.
I Hereby Certify, That all taxes levied and which have become a lien on
the within described property have been fully paid and discharged.
March 27th, 1893. G. O. NIevin.
Prosser Falls Irrigation Company,
a Corporation,
Grantors,
to
Fidelity Trust Company, a Corpora-
tion,
Grantees.
Mortgage.
Dated the 1st day of July, 1893.
Filed for record the 30th day of Septem-
ber, 1893, at 11:45 a. m.
Recorded in Book "L" of Mortgages,
page 129.
Prosser Falls Irrigation Company, [Corp. Seal]
By James G. VanMarter, Jr., President.
Attest: Wm. B. Dudley, Secretary.
Fidelity Trust Company, [Corp. Seal]
By T. B. Wallace, President.
Attest : P. C. Kauft'man, Cashier.
Witnesses : Geo. B. Hayes.
Fred R. Reed.
J. B. Best.
Frank Williams.
Acknowledged the 29th day of September, 1893. By James G. VanMarter,.
S16 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Jr., President and William B. Dudley. Secretary- of the Proiser Falls Irrigation
Company,
[Seal] Before Frank C. Reed, Notary- Public, within and for the state of
Washington, residing at Prosser, Wash.
Acknowledged this 2Sth day of September, 1893, by Thomas B. Wallace,
President, and P. C. Kaufenan, the Cashier of the Fidelity Trust Company.
[Seal] Before F. L. DENMAX, Notary Public, in and for the State of
Washington. Residing at Tacoma, Pierce County-.
State of Washixgtox.
County of Yakima,
I, Tames G. \'anMarter, Jr., being first duly sworn, depose and say : That I
am the President of the Prosser Falls Irrigation Company — The mortgagor who
executed the foregoing instnmient, and that the foregoing instrument of mort-
gage is made in good faith, and without any design to hinder, delay or defraud
creditors.
JAMES G. VAX MARTER, Jr.
Subscribed and sworn to before me this 29th day of September, A. D., 1893.
[Se.\l] Before FR_\XK C. REED, Xotarv- Public, in and for the State
of Washington, residing at Prosser, Wash.
Bonds to the amount of SIOO.OOO.OO issued by order of the Board of Direc-
tors by Resolution duly adopted, the issue to be 100 Bonds each in the principal
stmi of SI, 000.00 and made payable 10 years after date bearing interest at 6 per
cent, per annum, payable semi-annually.
Form of Bond and coupons embodied in this mortgage, and to secure the
pa\-ment of said bonds and interest, the President and Secretary of this Com-
pany are authorized and directed to sign, seal and acknowledge and deliver for
the Prosser Falls Irrigation Company, and in its name place and stead, a mort-
gage in all its property- real and personal, bearing date of July 1st, 1893, to the
Fideht}- Trust Company in trust for the protection of the holders of said bonds.
XOW THIS IXDEXTURE WTTXESSETH: That in pursuance of the
Resolution of the Board of Trustees of the Prosser Falls Irrigation Company, as
in the preamble set forth, and in consideration of the premises, and for the pur-
pose of securing of the pa\-ment of the Bonds by said Resolution authorized, and
for the sum of SI .00.
Description : The water rights, in and to the Yakima River now owned and
controlled by said Prosser Falls Irrigation Company, together with all the rights
in and to the said river, hereinafter acquired by said Irrigation Company, whether
now existing or hereafter acquired by virtue of an original appropriation, con-
tract or otherwise.
Also all the real estate, and all the interests therein now owned by said Irri-
gation Company, being situate in said Yakima County.
Together with all real estate, and all interests therein hereafter acquired,
through contracts now made or hereafter to be executed by said Company, for
the purpose of acquiring title, or interests in real estate in said Count}-, and all
I'AM AXii FALLS AT PEOSSEE
jn'ti:iiis risains; in the foreground
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 817
real estate in said County, and all interest therein, and all improvements there-
upon, in any and every manner acquired;
Also the main irrigation ditch of said Company, as the same shall be con-
structed by it in said Yakima County and all branch ditches auxiliary to said
main ditch hereafter to be constructed, with the gates and measuring boxes, and
other arrangements, or devices, through which delivery of water, shall be made
by said Company; Also the engines and pumping plant and dams, reservoirs,
head works, flumes and all manner of improvements, devices and machinery of
every kind and description now in place or hereafter to be constructed, by said
Company, in pursuance of the purposes of its incorporation.
WILLIAM F. PROSSER and FLORA
T. PROSSER. his wife,
Grantors,
TO
GEORGE HESSELMAN,
Grantee.
Warranty Deed.
Dated the 20th day of April, 1895.
Filed for record the 31st day of Jan-
uary, 1896, at 9:45 a. m.
Recorded in Book "U" Deeds, page
298.
Amount $8,689.00.
Grant, Bargain, Sell, Convey and Con-
firm.
Witnesses : Ira P. Englehart.
NiRA D. BURNHAM.
WILLIAM F. PROSSER, [Seal]
FLORA T. PROSSER, [Seal]
Acknowledged the 26th day of April, 1895. By William F. Prosser and Flora
T. Prosser, his wife.
[Seal] Before IRA P. ENGLEHART, Notary Public. North Yakima,
Washington.
Description: Lots 6-7 and 11 in Section 2, Township 8, North of Range 24
East. The same constituting the original Townsite of Prosser as duly platted and
recorded. Saving and except such lots as have been conveyed and sold in said
Townsite, towit : —
Lots 14-15 and 16, in Block 2; Lots 4, 13-14-15 and 16 in Block 3; Lots 5-6-
7-8-9-10-11 and 12, in Block 8; Lots 1-2 and 3 in Block 9; Lots 1-2-3-4 and West
Yz of Lots 5 and 12, and Lots 13-14 and 15 in Block 12; Lot 15 in Block 23 ; Lots
9-10-13-14-15 and 16 in Block 24; Lot 15 in Block 26; Lots 23 and 24, in Block
43; Lots 2-7-8-9-10-11-12-13-21-22-23 and 24, in Block 44; Lots 8-9 and 10 in
Block 45: Lots 1 and 2 in Block 63; Lots 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12-13-14-15-16-
17-18-19-20-22 and 24 in Block 64; Lots 12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19 and 20 in Block
65 ; Lots 6-7 and 8, in Block 85 ; Lots 2-3-4 and 5 in Block 84 ;
Also saving and excepting 2 acres of land as near as possible conforming to
(52)
818 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
the aforesaid plat of Townsite and incl,uding and surrounding a certain house
and barn thereon, the property of the said parties of the first part herein.
Except taxes since March 16, 1893.
FIDELITY TRUST COMPANY,
TO
PROSSER FALLS IRRIGATION CO.
Resignation of Trustee.
Dated Nov. 26th, 1896.
Filed Feb., 1897 at 9 a. m.
Rec. Vol. "P" Mtges. page 210.
Whereas the Prosser Falls Irrigation Co., organized and existing under
the laws of Washington did on the 1st day of July, 1893 make, execute and
deliver a mortgage of its corporate property and franchises to the Fidelity
Trust Co., a corporation organized and existing under the laws of the State of
Washington and having its principal place of business in Tacoma, County of
Pierce, Wn., in trust to secure the payment of an issue of $100,000.00 of bonds,
as by reference to said mortgage duly recorded in the office of the Auditor of
Yakima County, Washington, on June 30th, 1893, in Vol. L Mortgages at page
129, will more fully and at large appear, and whereas said mortgage did con-
tain among other things the following article. Article XIII. The present or
any trustee under this indenture may resign and discharge itself or himself of
the trust hereby created Ijy notice in writing to the Irrigation Company, and to
any other existing trustee or trustees, sixty days before such resignation shall
take elifect or by such shorter notice as the Company and such other trustee
and trustees shall accept as adequate and upon due and proper accounting in
respect to the trust in the event of such resignation or of the neglect, refusal or
incapacity of the Trustee to act the Company shall have full power and author-
ity to and will nominate and appoint a new trustee or trustees, such nomination
and appointment to be made by instrument in writing, to be executed, acknowl-
edged and recorded in the same manner as this indenture.
But if the Company shall be in default or the performance of any act re-
quired hereby or if the Company for any reason shall fail to appoint such a
successor within 60 days after such vacancy shall occur the power of appoint-
ment shall be vested with a majority in value of the Bond Holders who by
instrument or instruments in waiting over their hands and seals executed, ac-
knowledged, recorded in the same manner as this indenture may make such ap-
pointment, or if such method of appointment shall prove to be impracticable,
application may be made to any Court of competent jurisdiction by the holders
of one-fifth of the said bonds outstanding for the appointment of a new trus-
tee, and
Whereas, the Prosser Falls Irrigation Co. has requested the "Fidelity Trust
Co.," to resign the trust imposed upon and accepted by the Fidelity Trust Co. in
and by said mortgage. The Fidelity Trust Co. has elected to resign and dis-
charge itself of the trust thereby created.
Now therefore notice is hereby given to the said Prosser Falls Irrigation
Co. and to all other persons to whom this may come or concern, that the said
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 819
Fidelity Trust Company does hereby resign and discharge itself of all trust
created by said mortgage or deed of trust and imposed by it upon the said
Fidelity Trust Company.
In Witness Whereof the said Fidelity Trust Company has in duplicate
hereunto caused its corporate seal to be affixed and its corporate name to be
subscribed by its President this 20th day of November, 1896.
FIDELITY TRUST COMPANY,
By T. B. Wallace, President.
Witnesses: S. D. Craig.
G. C. Kauffman.
Acknowledged Nov. 20th, 1896 by T. B. Wallace, President of the Fidelity
Trust Company before S. D. Craig, Notary Public in and for the State of
Washington, residing at Tacoma. [Seal]
PROSSER FALLS IRRIGATION COMPANY,
TO
W. B. KxYpBLE.
Appointment of Trustee.
Dated Nov. 28th, 1896.
Filed Feb. 4th, 1897 at 9
a. m.
Rec. "P" Mtges. page 212.
This Indenture witnesseth that whereas on July 1st, 1893, Prosser Falls
Irrigation Company executed to the Fidelity Trust Co. as Trustee, a certain
mortgage or trust deed to secure an issue of bonds made by the said Prosser
Falls Irrigation Co.
And Whereas the said Fidelity Trust Co. did on the 20th day of Nov.
1896, resign said Trust by notice in writing to the Prosser Falls Irrigation Co.,
which resignation was immediately accepted ; and whereas it is provided in
said mortgage that a majority in amount of the Bond Holders may nominate
and appoint another trustee in case of such resignation when the said Prosser
Falls Irrigation Co. is in default of the performance of any covenants contained
in said mortgage. And Whereas The Prosser Falls Irrigation Co. is in default
in the payment of interest due on its said bonds.
Now therefore we hereby nominate and appoint W. B. Knoble of Prosser,
Wash., as Trustee under said mortgage subject to all the conditions in said
mortgage contained.
Witness our hands and seals this 28th day of November, 1896.
HENRY SOULIER [Seal]
Bv D. D. Calkins, attorney in fact.
MARIE SOULIER [Seal]
By D. D. C.JiLKiNS. attorney in fact.
B. BALBOE BERTONE [Seal]
By D. D. Calkins, attorney in fact.
GEORGE HESSELMANN [Seal]
By D. D. Calkins, attorney in fact.
820 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Acknowledged Jan. 29th, 1897 by D. D. Calkins the attorney in fact of
George Hesselmann, Henry Soulier, Marie Soulier and B. Balboe Bertone be-
fore J. M. Stout, Justice of the Peace, Yakima County, Washington.
RAIMONDO BALBO BERTO'NIE
TO
D. D. CALKINS.
Power of Attorney.
Dated July 29th, 1896.
Filed Sept. 22nd, 1896 at 9 :30 a. m.
Rec. Vol. "A" P. of Atty. page 117.
Know all men by these presents, that I, Raimondo Balbo Bertone, of Turin,
have made, constituted and appointed and by these presents do make, constitute
and appoint D. D. Calkins of Prosser, Washington, U. S. A., my true and law-
ful attorney for and in my name, place and stead, to represent me and do all acts
and to exercise all the powers that I have a right to exercise as owner of the
Bonds numbered 60 to 78 of the Prosser Falls Irrigation Co., and particularly
to exercise the power given to bond holders in the mortgage by the Prosser
F. Ir. Co., to the Fidelity Trust Co. as Trustee, to secure its said bonds.
BALBO BERTONE RAIMONDO,
Via Stampatoni, Torenio, Italio.
Witnesses : Robert B. H.\ndley
Aberpbetti Aenetio
Acknowledged July 29th, 1896, by Raimondo Balbo Bertone before Wal-
lace S. Jones, Consul General of the United States of America at Rome, Italy.
[Se.vl of Con.sul General]
MARIE SOULIER et al
TO
D. D. CALKINS.
Power of Attorney.
Dated August 6th, 1896.
Filed Sept. 22nd, 1896 at 9:30 a. m.
Rec. Vol. "A" Power of Atty page 118.
Know all men by these presents that we Marie Soulier and Henrj' Soulier
of Rome have made, constituted and appointed and by these presents do make,
constitute and appoint D. D. Calkins of Prosser, Wash., LI. S. A., my true
and lawful attorney for and in my name and place and stead do represent me
and to do all acts and exercise all the powers that I have a right to exercise
as owner of Bonds No. 1 to 50 inclusive of the Prosser Falls Irrigation Com-
pany and particularly to exercise the power given to bond holders in the mort-
gage by the Prosser Falls Irrigation Co. to the Fidelity Trust Co. as Trustee,
to secure its said bonds.
MARIE SOULIER NE LADEN
VIA STANTENBURG [L.S.I
HENRY SOULIER [L.S.]
Witnesses : Ottavio Giachettie
OVE RUNLFF OtRENO
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 821
Acknowledged August 6th, 1896 by Marie Soulier and Henry Soulier be-
fore Wallace S. Jones, Consul General of the United States at Rome, Italy.
[Seal]
INSTRUMENT NO. 43.
In the Superior Court of Yakima County, State of Washington
W. B. KNOBLE, Trustee, Plaintiff,
vs.
PROSSER FALLS IRRIGATION', COMPANY, Defendants.
EMMA LOUISE WOOD, Plaintiff,
vs.
PROSSER FALLS IRRIGATION COMPANY, a corporation; THE
FIDELITY TRUST COMPANY, a corporation, et al.. Defendants.
RETURN OF SALE OF REAL ESTATE.
TO THE HONORABLE JOHN B. DAVIDSON, JUDGE OF THE ABOVE
ENTITLED COURT:
Comes now Ira P. Englehart, receiver of the Prosser Falls Irrigation Com-
pany, and respectfully shows this Court,
That he was on the 24th day of February, 1897, duly appointed receiver of
the Prosser Falls Irrigation Company, an insolvent corporation, in the above
cause. That he duly qualified as such receiver and has ever since been, and is
now the duly qualified and acting receiver of such corporation.
That he was by virtue of an order duly made and entered in the above
cause, by the above Court, February 8th, 1899, to said Ira P. Englehart, as such
receiver of said Prosser Falls Irrigation Company directed, ordered and com-
manded as such receiver, to sell on Saturday, March 18, 1899, at the hour of 2
o'clock p. m. of said day, at the front door of the Court House in North Yakima,
County of Yakima, State of Washington, to the highest and best bidder for cash,
provided said bid be not less than $8,000, all that certain lot of property, real,
personal and mixed, as hereinafter more fully described.
That said Ira P. Englehart as such receiver, and pursuant to said order,
published notice of said sale for five successive weeks in the Yakima "Republic,"
a newspaper of general circulation, published in the city of North Yakima,
County of Yakima, State of Washington, a copy of which notice of sale and
affidavit of publication is hereto attached, marked "Exhibit A," and did on
Saturday, March 18, 1899, at the hour of 2 o'clock p. m. of said day, at the
front door of the Court House at North Yakima, in the County of Yakima,
state of Washington, put up and offer all of the property hereinafter more
fully described, and did then and there offer the same for sale at public auction,
to the highest and best bidder for cash. That thereupon, one Levi Ankeny bid
for all of said property the sum of $8,000, lawful money of the United States.
That no other person bid for, or offered to buy said property, and after due
notice given by said receiver, the said property was then and there sold to said
Levi Ankeny for said sum of $8,000, subject to the ratification of the above
entitled Court.
The property so sold is more fully described as follows, to-wit :
All of that certain lot of property, real, personal and mixed, being situated
in Yakima County, State of Washington, more fully described as follows, to-wit:
822 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
All of lot eight (8) in Section thirty-two (32), Township nine (9), north
of Range twenty-five (25), each of W. M., containing 56 21-100 acres, more or
less, according to government survey.
All that part of the Southeast J4 of the southwest '4 of Section 32, Town-
ship 9, north of Range 25, east W. M., lying north of the Prosser Falls Irriga-
tion Company's present canal, containing 14 50-100 acres, except a strip 125 feet
in width lying north and south along the west side of said land.
Also all that part of lot 7 lying between the Prosser Falls Irrigation Com-
pany's canal and the Northern Pacific Railway track in the same section. Also
75-100 acres in the northwest corner of southwest '4 of southeast '4 of Sec-
tion 32, Township 9, north Range 25, east W. M., said 75-100 acres of land
being all of said southwest J4 of southeast J4 that lies under Prosser Falls
Irrigation canal.
All of lot six (6) and 80-100 acres of lot five (5) more particularly de-
scribed as follows: Beginning at the southeast corner of lot five (5), running
thence 125 feet west along the south line of said lot five (5) ; thence due north
to the south line of the Northern Pacific Railroad right of way; thence north-
east along said right of way to the dividing line between lots five (5) and six
(6) ; thence south along said line to place of beginning. All in Section thirty-
two (32), Township nine (9), north of Range twenty-five (25), east of W. M.
Lot four (4), excepting therein the Northern Pacific Railroad right of
way, in Section 31, Township 9, North Range 25, east of W. M.
Also lot five (5) in above section, excepting therefrom the Northern Pa-
cific Railway right of way, and excepting also 17 93-100 acres, being a strip
632 feet wide lying along the east line of said lot, between said right of way and
the Yakima River. Also all that part of the south ^ of southeast 54 of Sec-
tion 31, Township 9, north of Range 25, east of W. M., lying south of the
Northern Pacific Railroad right of way, containing 53 21-100 acres. Except-
ing therefrom 2 33-100 acres sold to the Northern Pacific Railway Company.
The north half of lot No. 4, except the right of way of the Northern Pa-
cific Railroad : that part of lot 3 lying north of the Prosser Falls Irrigation
Company's canal, except the northeast '4 of said lot; 44-100 acres situated in
the northwest comer of southeast ^'4 of northwest '4 of Section six (6), said
44-100 acres being all the land in that forty covered by the Prosser Falls Irrriga-
tion canal ; also a right of way 60 feet wide, being 30 feet on each side of the
center line of the Prosser Falls Irrigation Company's canal through lots 3. 5
and the southeast ^4 of the northwest J4 of Section 6, all of said lands above
described being in Section 6, Township 8, north of Range 25, east of W. M.
Reserving a strip 15 feet wide on either side of the middle, east and west line
running through lot 4 and half way through lot 3.
Lots five (5), six (6), seven (7) and eight (8). in Section ten (10), Town-
ship eight (8), north of Range 24, east of W. M., containing 156 acres, more
or less ; which said land has been platted and laid out as "The Fruitvale ten acre
tracts," and of which lots one (1), eight (8), nine (9), ten (10), eleven (11),
twelve (12) and thirteen (13) thereof have been sold and are hereby excepted
from said sale and are not included in this conveyance.
Lots numbered one (1), two (2), three (3), four (4), five (5), twenty-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY ' 823
three (23) and twenty-four (24) according to the plat of "E. F. Benson's
Orchard Tracts," as the same appears of record in the office of the County
Auditor of Yakima County, Washington, containing ninety-two and 98-100
(92 98-100) acres, more or less, according to the U. S. government survey; said
tracts comprising all the east half (east }i) of the east J4 of Section nine (9),
Township eight (8), north of Range twenty-four (24) east of W. M., which
lies south of the Yakima River, excepting the right of way of the Northern
Pacific Railroad across said tract ; said right of way being 400 feet in width.
All of lot seven (7) in Section eight (8), Township eight (8), north of
Range twenty-four (24) east of W. M., except eight and 51-100 (8 51-100)
acres lying and being in the northeast corner of said lot 7, and more particularly
described as follows : Beginning at the northwest corner of the southeast
quarter (S. E. 54) of the southeast quarter (S. E. ^) of Section eight (8), and
running 323 feet west ; thence north to the Yakima River ; thence along the
Yakima River in a northeasterly direction to the dividing line between lots 7
and 8, Section 8; thence south along said dividing line to place of beginning.
The west half (W. j^) of the northeast quarter (N. E. }4) of the southeast
quarter (S. E. ^4) and the northeast quarter (N. E. j4) of the southwest quarter
(S. W. J4) of Section twelve (12), Township eight (8), north of Range twenty-
three (23) east of W. M.
Lot live (5) and all of lot six (6), excepting a strip from the north end
quarter posts to river, being 295 feet from quarter posts to river on east end
and 195 feet from quarter post to river on west end ; also a right of way for
road 30 feet wide on each end of reserved land to river. All situate in Sec-
tion eight, Township eight (8), North of Range 24 east of W. M., containing
sixty-three and 71-100 acres more or less, including railroad right of way.
Lots eleven (11), twelve (12), thirteen (13), and fourteen (14), of E. F.
Benson's Orchard Tracts, according to the official plat thereof of record in the
office of the County Auditor of Yakima County, State of Washington.
Lot 19, Benson's Orchard Tracts, and containing thirty-three and 4-100
acres, more or less.
All of said lands aggregating eight hundred and three and ninety-seven
hundredths (803 97-100) acres, more or less.
Also all the right, title and interest of the Prosser Falls Irrigation Com-
pany in Section one .(1), Township eight (8), north of Range 24 east of W. M.
Also all water rights in the waters of the Yakima River, now owned, held
or claimed by said Prosser Falls Irrigation Company, by appropriation, con-
tract, deed or otherwise.
Also that tract or parcel of land lying between Grant Avenue, Tenth Street
and the Yakima River, in the town of Prosser, County of Yakima, State of
Washington, according to the plat thereof filed in the office of the County
Auditor of said county, and being in Section two (2), Township 8, North Range
24 East, and being the north half of Block 212 town of Prosser, Yakima County,
Washington. Also all of lot three (3) in block nought (0) ; also so much of
lot fourteen (14) in block nought (0) in said town according to said plat, as
lies in said Section two (2).
Together with one pump house, two duplex pumps, two water turbines used
824 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
for running said pumps, 2,800 feet of riveted pipe connected with said pumping
plant and all machinery and buildings now being located on said tracts or
parcels of land; also 600 feet of fluming, with head gates, pen stock and head
works; said flume running from the falls to said pump house; also right of
way for said f^ume. Together with the land on which the same are situate,
and all rights of way now owned, claimed or held by said Prosser Falls Irri-
gation Company, and used by it for the purpose of maintaining and operating
any of its canals, or pipe lines used for the conveyance of water in said irriga-
tion system, whether held by deed, contract or otherwise.
Together with all and singular the tenements, hereditaments, and appur-
tenances thereunto belonging, or in anywise appertaining, and the reversion and
reversions, remainder and remainders, rents, issues and profits thereof.
IRA P. ENGLEHART,
Receiver of Prosser Falls Irrigation Company.
STATE OF WASHINGTON, COUNTY OF YAKIMA, ss:
Ira P. Englehart, being first duly sworn on oath, deposes and says : I am
the duly qualified appointed, qualified and acting receiver of the Prosser Falls
Irrigation Company, an insolvent corporation. That I have read and know the
contents of the foregoing return of sale, and the same is true as I verily believe.
IRA P. ENGLEHART.
Subscribed and sworn to before me this 20th day of March, 1899.
(Seal) W. P. GUTHRIE,
Notary Public for State of Washington,
Residing at North Yakima, Washington.
INSTRUMENT NO. 44.
IN THE SUPERIOR COURT OF YAKIMA COUNTY, STATE OF
WASHINGTON.
W. B. KNOBLE, Trustee, Plaintiff,
vs.
PROSSER FALLS IRRIGATION! COMPANY, Defendants.
EMMA LOUISE WOOD, Plaintiff.
vs.
PROSSER FALLS IRRIGATION CO'IMPANY, a corporation; THE
FIDELITY TRUST COMPANY, a corporation, at al.. Defendants.
ORDER OF CONFIRMATION.
This court having by an order duly made and entered in the above entitled
cause, dated February 8, 1898, commanding Ira P. Englehart, the duly qualified
and acting receiver of the Prosser Falls Irrigation Company, an insolvent cor-
poration as such receiver to sell at public auction on the 18th day of March,
1899, at the Court House in North Yakima, Yakima County, State of Wash-
ington, certain property, real, personal, and mixed of the Prosser Falls Irriga-
tion Company, then being in the custody and control of such receiver for this
Court, and said receiver having this day filed his return of sale showing that
pursuant to said order he gave proper notice that he would sell at public auction
as such receiver on the 18th day of March, 1899, at the hour of 2 o'clock p. m.
of said day, at the front door of the Court House in the city of North Yakima,
State of Washington, said property, by publishing for five successive weeks in
HIGH SCHOOL, PROSSER
^ ^ -^-<^S^.
IVEHVIEW" SCHOOL, PROSSEI
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 825
the Yakima "Republic," a newspaper of general circulation published at North
Yakima, Yakima County, State of Washington, a notice of said sale. That at
the time appointed by the order of said court, said Ira P. Englehart, as such
receiver, did sell the property, real, personal and mixed, hereinafter more fully de-
scribed to one Levi Ankeny for the sum of $8,000, lawful money of the United
States.
That said Levi Ankeny was the only bidder and the only person who has
offered to purchase said property. And it satisfactorily appearing to this court
by the return of sale of said property, filed herein by said Ira P. Englehart,
Receiver, and by oral testimony taken this day, that all of said facts are true,
and it satisfactorily appearing to this court by reason of said return of sale
and said oral testimony taken this day that said sale was conducted in the man-
ner at the place and by the person by this court commanded to make the same,
and that due notice was given of the same "as provided by the order of this court
and that said sale was properly and fairly conducted by said receiver represent-
ing this court. And Jones & Guthrie, attorneys for W. B. Knoble, trustee in
the above entitled cause, and for George Hesselmann, one of the creditors and
bondholders having this day in open court consented to said sale being ratified,
approved and confirmed, and no objections having been made by any one of the
confirmation of said sale and it satisfactorily appearing to this court that said
sale should be confirmed.
Now, therefore, it is hereby ordered that the aforesaid sale be and the same
is hereby confirmed, ratified and approved, and said receiver is hereby author-
ized to convey to said purchaser, Levi Ankeny. the following described property,
real, personal and mixed, lying and being in the County of Yakima, State of
Washington, and more fully described as follows, to-wit :
All rights of way now owned, claimed or held by the Prosser Falls Irriga-
tion Company and used by it for the purpose of maintaining and operating anv
of its canals, or pipe lines used for the conveyance of water in said irrigatron
system, whether held by deed, contract or otherwise.
Also all the right, title and interest of the Prosser Falls Irrigation Com-
pany in Section 1, Township 8, Nl. R. 24, E. W. M. Also all water rights in
the waters of the Yakima River now owned, held or controlled by said Prosser
Falls Irrigation Co. by appropriation, contract, deed or otherwise (and other
lands).
Together with all and singular the tenements, hereditaments and appurten-
ances thereunto belonging or in any wise appertaining, and the reversion and
reversions, remainder and remainders, rents, issues and profits thereof (and
other personal property).
And upon receiving from said purchaser, Levi Ankeny, the sum of $8,000,
lawful money of the United States the said Ira P. Englehart, receiver, is hereby
authorized to make, execute and deliver to said Levi Ankeny a deed of said
property in the usual form.
Dated this 22nd day of March, 1899.
JOHN B. DAVIDSON, Judge.
Filed March 28, 1899.
Recorded in Volume "H," Superior Court Journal, page 197.
826 HISTORY OF YAKBIA VALLEY
INSTRU.MENT NO. 45.
IN THE SUPERIOR COURT OF YAKIMA COUNTY, STATE OF
WASHINGTON.
W. B. Knoble, Trustee, Plaintiff, vs. Prosser Falls Irrigation Company, De-
fendant ; Emma Louise Wood, Plaintiff, vs. Prosser Falls Irrigation Com-
pany, a corporation. The Fidelity Trust Company, a corporation, at al.,
Defendants.
STIPULATION: It is hereby agreed and stipulated by Jones & Guthrie,
attorneys for the above named W^ B. Knoble, Trustee, and Whitson and Parker,
attorneys for the above named Emma Louise Wood, and Ira P. Englehart, Re-
ceiver, in said cause, that said Ira P. Englehart be discharged from any further
duties as such Receiver ; that said receivership be closed, and that necessary
orders to said end be made and entered by the above Court therein.
JONES & GUTHRIE,
Attorneys ror W. B. Knoble, Trustee.
WHITSON & PARKER,
Attorneys for Emma Louise Wood.
IRA P. ENGLEHART,
Receiver and Attorney pro se.
INSTRUMENT NO. 46.
IN THE SUPERIOR COURT OF YAKIMA COUNTY, STATE OF
WASHINGTON.
W. B. Knoble, Trustee, Plaintiff', vs. Prosser Falls Irrigation Company, De-
fendant ; Emma Louise Wood, Plaintiff, vs. Prosser Falls Irrigation Com-
pany, a corporation, the Fidelity Trust Company, a corporation, et. al.. De-
fendants.
ORDER DISCHARGING RECEIVER. A written stipulation signed by
Jones & Guthrie, attorneys in the above cause for W. B. Knoble, Trustee ; Whit-
son & Parker, attorneys for Emma Louise Wood, and Ira P. Englehart, Receiver
in the above cause, that said Ira P. Englehart, Receiver, be discharged, having
been duly presented to this Court ; and it satisfactorily appearing to this Court
that the duties of said Receiver are at an end, and that said Receiver should be
discharged in said cause.
It is therefore ordered, that said Ira P. Englehart, Receiver in the above
cause be, and he is hereby discharged from any duties as such Receiver, and said
Receivership is hereby closed and settled.
It is further ordered that all acts done and performed by said Ira P. Engle-
hart, Receiver, including the expending and disbursing of moneys by him as
such Receiver be, and the same are hereby ratified, confirmed and approved.
It is further ordered that the bondsmen of said Receiver be, and they are
hereby released from any further liabilities as such bondsmen and they are
hereby discharged.
JOHN B. DAVIDSON, Judge.
Dated January 10, 1901.
Filed April 26. 1901.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY ; 827
INSTRUMENT No. 47.
IRA P. ENGLEHART, Receiver of the Prosser Falls Irrigation Company,
Grantors,
to
LEVI ANKENY, Grantee.
DEED. "Dated the 22nd day of March, 1899. Filed for record the 23rd day
of March, 1899, at 2:50 p. m. Recorded in Book "Z" of Deeds, page 517.
Amount, $8,000.00. Granting words G. B. S. and C.
(Signed) IRA P. ENGLEHART,
(Seal.) Receiver of Prosser Falls Irrigation Company.
Witnesses — W. C. Steinweg, O. A. Fletcher.
Acknowledged the 22nd day of March, 1899. by Ira P. Englehart, Receiver
of the Prosser Falls Irrigation Company.
(Seal) Before 'O. A. FECHTER, Notary Public.
Yakima, Washington.
(I. R. S. $8.00)
Description — Whereas, Ira P. Englehart was on the 24th day of February.
1897, by the Superior Court of the State of Washington duly appointed and
made Receiver of the Prosser Falls Irrigation Company, " " said order is
recorded in the office of the Clerk of the Superior Court of said County and
State in Journal "G," page 98. And said Ira P. Englehart duly qualified as
such Receiver, and ever since has been and now is such Receiver.
AND WHEREAS said Ira P. Englehart as such receiver has been duly
ordered by said court to sell by public auction the real estate, water rights,
canals, flumes, pipe lines, machinery and other property real, personal and mixed
of the Prosser Falls Irrigation Company, a corporation as hereinafter more
fully described, by an order of said court dated and entered in said court on
the 8th day of February, 1899.
AND WHEREAS said Ira P. Englehart as such receiver did on the 18th
day of March, 1899, sell all the property hereinafter described to said Levi
Ankeny for $8,000 to him in hand paid.
AND WHEREAS said sale was thereafter and on the 22nd day of March,
1899, duly approved, ratified and confirmed by the Superior Court of the State
of Washington, for the County of Yakima, and said receiver was then and there
ordered to properly make, execute and deliver a proper conveyance of deed
thereto to said Levi Ankeny ; said order is recorded in the office of the Clerk
of said Court in Journal "H," page 197.
The following described property, real, personal and mixed, situate and
being in the County of Yakima, State of Washington, to-wit :
All rights of way now owned, claimed or held by the Prosser Falls Irriga-
tion Company and used by it for the purpose of maintaining and operating
any of its canals, or pipe lines used for the conveyance of water in said irriga-
tion system, whether held by deed, contract or otherwise.
Also all the right, title and interest of the Prosser Falls Irrigation Com-
pany in Sec. 1, Twp. 8, N. R. 24 E. W. M. Also all water rights in the waters
of the Yakima River now owned, held or controlled by said Prosser Falls Irri-
828 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
gation Company by appropriation, contract, deed or otherwise (and all other
lands).
Together with all and singular the tenements, hereditaments and appur-
tenances thereunto belonging or in any wise appertaining, and the reversion
and reversions, remainder and remainders, rents, issues and profits thereof (and
other personal property).
INSTRUMENT No. 48.
LEVI ANKENY AND JENNIE NESMITH ANKENY, his wife,
to
PROSSER FALLS IRRIGATION CO]\IPANY.
QUIT CLAIM DEED. Dated the 13th day of June, 189<;). Filed for record
the 27th day of June, 1899, at 12 m. Recorded in Book "I" of Deeds,
page 270. Amount, Sl.OO. Granting words: G. B. R. S. C. and C. and
forever Q. C.
(Signed)
JENNIE NESMITH ANKENY,
LEVI ANKENY.
Witnesses — A. R. Burford, J. E. Thompson.
Acknowledged the 26th day of June, 1899, by Levi .\nkeny and Jennie
Nesmith Ankeny.
(Seal) Before A. R. BURFORD, N. P.,
Residing at Walla Walla, Wash.
Description — All rights of way now owned, claimed or held by the Prosser
Falls Irrigation Company and used by it for the purpose of maintaining and
operating any of its canals, or pipe lines used for the conveyance of water in
said irrigation system, whether held by deed, contract or otherwise.
Also all the right, title and interest heretofore owned by the Prosser Falls
Irrigation Company in Sec. 1, Twp. 8, N. R. E. W. M. Also all water rights
in the waters of the Yakima River heretofore owned, held or controlled by
said Prosser Falls Irrigation Company by appropriation, contract, deed or other-
wise (and other lands).
Together with all and singular the tenements, hereditaments and api)ur-
tenances thereunto belonging or in any wise appertaining, and the reversion
and reversions, remainder and remainders, rents, issues and profits thereof (and
other personal property).
KNOW ALL MEN BY THESE PRESENTS, That the undersigned,
Levi Ankeny, E. F. Benson and Edward Whitson, all citizens of the United
States, and residents of the State of Washington, have associated themselves
together for the purpose of forming a corporation under the laws of said state,
and do hereby adopt and certify the following articles of incorporation:
ARTICLE I.
The name of this corporation is the Prosser Falls Land & Irrigation
Company.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 829
ARTICLE II.
The objects for which this corporation is formed are as follows:
1. To purchase, acquire, maintain and operate that certain pumping plant
located at Prosser, in Yakima County, Washington, heretofore known as the
Prosser Falls Pumping Plant, together with the pumps, pumping station, pipe
lines, canals, laterals, water rights, ditches, appropriations, and everything be-
longing or in anywise appertaining thereto.
2. To buy, sell and deal in lands and water rights in the County of
•Yakima, and to acquire among other lands, those certain lands heretofore pur-
chased by Levi Ankeny at receiver's sale of the property of the Prosser Falls
Irrigation Company, and to issue bonds to pay the purchase price thereof, or
borrow money to pay for said lands, and to mortgage all or any of the property
of said Company to secure the payment of said bonds, and to own, sell, improve,
irrigate and cultivate said lands.
3. To furnish and supply water for irrigation and domestic purposes upon
the lands owned by said corporation, and to charge and receive tolls and rentals
for the use of water upon such of said lands as said corporation may dispose of.
4. To sell and convey water rights for the irrigation of such lands as this
company may convey to purchasers, and thereafter to charge and receive rental
for supplying said lands with water.
5. To develop the water power of Prosser Falls, to sell or lease water
rights, water privileges and power for manufacturing purposes, and for that
purpose to take, appropriate and use the water of the Yakima River at or near
the town of Prosser, to make appropriations and diversions of water, and to
acquire water rights and water privileges in the waters of said river.
6. To build, maintain and operate water works for the purpose of supply-
ing the town of Prosser and its inhabitants with water for fire, irrigation and
domestic purposes, and to build, maintain and operate an electric light plant
for the purpose of supplying the town of Prosser and its inhabitants with
electric lights, and take and receive from said town franchises, privileges and
agreements for those purposes.
7. Generally, to buy, sell, own and improve real estate within the County
of Yakima, and to own and acquire by purchase or otherwise water rights, and
water power: to construct, maintain and own irrigating ditches, canals and
reservoirs, or to acquire the same by purchase or otherwise.
ARTICLE IIL
The amount of the capital stock of this corporation is hereby fixed at
fifty thousand.
ARTICLE V.
The number of trustees of this corporation is hereby fi.xed at three, and
the names of those who shall manage the concerns of said company until the
first Monday in September, 1899, are Levi Ankeny, E. F. Benson and Edward
Whitson.
830 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
ARTICLE VI.
The principal place of business of said corporation shall be at North Yakima,
in Yakima Connty, State of Washington.
IN WITNESS WHEREOF, they have hereunto subscribed their names
in triplicate this 4th day of April, 1899.
Executed in the presence of :
B. L. SHARPSTEIX, LEVI ANKENY,
FRED PARKER. E. F. BENSON,
EDWARD WHITSON.
STATE OF WASHINGTON, COUNTY OF YAKIMA, ss:
On the 4th day of April, 1899, personally appeared before me, the under-
signed, a Notary Public in and for said county and state, E. F. Benson and
Edward Whitson, to me known to be the identical persons described in and
who executed the foregoing articles of incorporation, who severally acknowl-
edged to me that they executed the same freely and voluntarily, for the uses
and purposes therein mentioned.
WITNESS my hand and official seal the day and year in this certificate
first above written.
(Seal.) FRED PARKER, Notary Public,
Residing at North Yakima, Wash.
L'pon the operation of these companies much of the development of the
town depended. Nelson Rich established a mercantile business in 1883. The
usual little cluster of dwellings and shops and saloons followed. There was
slow growth, however, till the Prosser Falls Irrigation Company undertook a
series of improvements, consisting of the installation of a pumping system with
a view of irrigating the land on the south side of the river and to providing an
electric lighting system. The completion of these improvements was marked
by a celebration on April 16, 1894. That was one of the big days in the early
history of the town. A number of distinguished men were present, including
Colonel Prosser, W. L. Jones. W. D. Tyler, G. L. Homes, D. E. Lesh, E. F.
Benson, Dr. N. F. Essig, and others, both resident and non-resident.
The town took a leap forward as a result of these improvements. The first
newspaper, the "Prosser Falls American", came into existence at that time. The
first bank. First National, was organized, and several new stores followed. Mr.
E. W. R. Taylor, a genuine product of Yakima, the son of George S. Taylor,
first settler in the Selah district on the east side of the river, came to Prosser in
1889. Within a few years the Prosser Falls Land & Power Company, of which
he was head, put in the dam at the falls and constructed the flouring-mill. one
of the most important features of the community.
In spite of the hopeful outlook at that time for the town and adjoining
country, the hard times seriously hampered operations. As seen in the legal
records given, the Prosser Falls Irrigation Company became involved in diffi-
culties as the sequence, and finally went into the hands of a receiver, D. D.
Calkins, Ira P. Englehart being afterwards appointed to that post in 1897 hy the
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 831
Superior Court, John B. Davidson, judge. On April 4, 1899, a new corporation,
known as the Prosser Falls Land & Irrigation Company, composed of Levi
Ankeny, E. F. Benson and Edward Whitson, acquired the property of the irriga-
tion company.
With this organization Mr. Benson became a leading figure for a number
of years in all the business enterprises of Prosser. It was but one among many
enterprises to which Mr. Benson, now commissioner of agriculture of the state,
applied his great business ability and energy. Mr. Benson continued the man-
agement of the system till 1911, when the city of Prosser acquired water rights
from the Sunnyside Canal, conveying the water by a pipe line ten miles long,
carried across the river under pressure by an aqueduct. .Vt the time of inaugura-
tion of the pipe line the irrigation company sold its pumping plant to the Pacific
Power & Light Company and retired from the field.
MUNICIPAL GOVERNMENT IN PROSSER.
On February 11, 1899, an election was held to determine the question of
incorporation. The population was small, but ambitious, and by a vote of forty
to eighteen, incorporation was adopted. Result of election of councilmen was
the choice of J. W. Whiting, G. W. Anderson, Joseph Ponti, Fred Brandt, and
C. H. Denley. E. W. R. Taylor became mayor and C. A. Jenson became treas-
urer. J. W. Whiting was appointed clerk pro tem. The first ordinance of the
city was passed by the council on March 20, 1899. On May 1, John A. Viles
became clerk for the term. From that time on the mayors and clerks have been
the following: 1901, mayor, H. W. Creason ; clerk, C. M. Powell; 1902, mayor,
E. W. R. Taylor ; clerk, H. M. Powell ; 1904, mayor, E. W. R. Taylor : clerk,
B. E. McGregor ; 1905, the same, though Mr. Taylor resigned and was succeeded
by A. G. McNeill ; 1906, mayor, E. W. R. Taylor ; clerk, J. W. Callicotte ; 1908,
mayor, Albert Smith; clerk, Lon Boyle (that year of 1908 was marked by the
passage of an ordinance granting a franchise for the Benton Independent Tele-
phone Company, of which Harry Miles was president) ; 1909, mayor, Albert
Smith ; clerk, Lon Boyle ; 1910, mayor, E. W. R. Taylor ; clerk, E. A. Coffman,
followed by E. A. Wise; 1911, mayor, William Guernsey; clerk, E. A. Wise;
1912, the same; 1913, mayor, C. G. Baker; clerk, E. A. Wise; 1914, the same;
1916, mayor. Dr. A. de Y. Green; clerk, James G. Boyle; 1917, mayor, Ivan
Macy; clerk, James G. Boyle; at the last election, held December 3, 1918, the
complete list of city officials was as follows : Mayor, A. G. McNeill ; treasurer,
W. S. Jenkins: clerk, B. F. Rupert; attorney, B. E. McGregor; councilmen, B.
E. Lawrence, E. W. Fry, J. W. Whiting. R. W. Moore, B. P. Sampson, and
Robert Weber. Guy H. Pearl is the hold-over councilman.
COMMERCIAL CLUB OF PROSSER
This vital necessity of a live town has been realized at Prosser in full
measure. The moving factor in its first organization was E. F. Benson in about
1905. Gen. Thomas H. Cavanaugh was the first president. L. L. Lynn, now
secretary of the Commercial Club of Walla Walla, was secretary of the Prosser
Club for some time.
832 HISTORY OF YAKIJNIA VALLEY
During a considerable time in the years from about 1906 to 1914 the club
maintained a weekly luncheon, at which addresses were usually given by visitors
or by some one of the home members upon some specialty with which he was
familiar. That period, varying somewhat according to local conditions, was a
peculiar one in the history of commercial organizations in Washington and
Oregon, and indeed all over the Pacific Coast. It was a period of systematic
publicity and regular organized effort to secure the attention of prospective set-
tlers from the older states and to promote local improvements and intelligent
cooperation in all lines of enterprise. That was the period in which Tom
Richardson and C. C. Chapman, of Portland, organized and conducted the most
enthusiastic cainpaigns ever known in that city. The waves of interest spread
to the other large cities of the Northwest. The smaller towns felt the impulse.
Thousands of dollars were expended in publicity campaigns and in promoting
all forms of inviting incoming capitalists to invest in newly launched under-
takings. While in the nature of the case mistakes were made and some disap-
pointments were occasioned, that era of commercial evangelism was a truly great
time. Far more good than injury was accomplished.
It was not possible to maintain a movement of that kind at high pitch all the
time. Commercial revivifying, like religious, finds its equilibrium, and a period
of crusading is bound to subside into a more commonplace type of life. Thus
it proved with that period of publicity and awakening headed by the commercial
clubs during nearly a decade beginning in 1905 or 1906.
The small towns, like Prosser, followed the saine general course as the large
ones. The wave of enthusiasm had begun to subside to a degree before the Great
War. That stupendous event so engrossed the attention of all minds that,
throughout the four appalling years of its continuance, little heed was given to
ordinary interests. Hlence it is not surprising to find that the Commercial Club
of Prosser, like the clubs of other towns, went somewhat under a cloud. It has
been revived and reorganized during the year past, and now appears under the
name of the Prosser Community Club. The ofilicers of the new club are these :
President, E. W. F. Taylor ; first vice-president, E. R. Wells : second vice-
president, T. J. Stockdale ; treasurer, A. S. Douglass ; secretary, W. E. Tyler.
During the period of special activity, the Commercial Club of Prosser
fostered many of the enterprises upon which the material life of the community
depended. It was the active agent in securing the municipal ownership of the
pipe line from the Sunnyside Canal, an improvement which has well nigh
recreated the town. It maintained an annual corn and hog show, which has
attracted favorable attention from many directions. Through its efl^orts the
raising of corn has been made a specialty in the farming region tributary, and
no doubt more prizes for corn raising have been taken by Prosser people at the
corn shows than by any other section in the Northwest.
Fine stock has been made a specialty in the Prosser region through the
active efforts of the Commercial Club. One special example of its activity in
the vital interests of the community is exhibited by the fact that in 1914, when
pear blight threatened to devastate the orchards, the Commercial Club organized
a regular army of defense among the men of the town to fight the pest. They
got out at 4 A. M. — twentv men or more each morning for some time — armed
CARXfXilK LIBKAKV,
STKEL BKIDGE AND SYPHON, PliUS.SER
HISTORY OF YAKIjMA VALLEY 833
with saws and pruning knives, and made a regular scientific attack upon the
foe, resulting in his complete discomfiture.
SOME INTERESTING RECORDS FROM THE NEWSPAPERS OF PROSSER.
Turning to the records of events in the press of the town we find a series
of items that cannot fail to entertain and instruct our readers. From the "Bul-
letin" of June 22, 1905, we clip two items of importance in the town of that
period.
"Prosser Bulletin", June 22, 1905.
A MACHINE SHOP FOR THIS TOWN.
Prosser is to have a first class machine shop, an institution that is badly
needed, and one that cannot be equalled between Spokane and Seattle. The
machinery for it arrived Monday, along with the new generator of the Prosser
Falls Land & Power Company, notice of which is made elsewhere in this issue.
The machine shop is to be run by that concern and, in addition to doing its work,
will also be at the service of the general public. Heretofore, any person having
work of this character to be done had to send to Spokane, Walla Walla or
Seattle, which caused long and vexatious delays, to say nothing of the added
expense. The machine shop will at once be installed in a room built for it at
the power house and will probably be in operation by the first of July.
The machinery consists of a lathe with a 10-foot bed and 21-inch swing,
which is twice as large as any lathe in North Yakima ; a 16-inch press drill ; a
large shaper for planing and shaping iron, emery wheels and everything needed
to work iron. The company also expects to secure the services of a practical
foundryman and moulder and thus be able to take care of machine work of any
character.
This is an industry which the people of Prosser and vicinity should appreci-
ate. It is one that could not be supplied at this time by anyone but the com-
pany that is putting it in and, while it will probably not pay expenses for some
time .to come, this city and vicinity will have the full benefit of such an establish-
ment.
THE GENER.\TOR HERE
The big generator for the new electric light and power plant of the Prosser
Falls Land & Power Company arrived here Monday and is now being installed
by Mr. Hirt of the General Electric Company, sent here for that purpose. It
is a 200 kilowatt machine, capable of producing 4,000 electric lights, and is the
best generator on the market. It will be in operation, barring any accidents,
before the Fourth of July. A 60-inch Sampson Leffel water wheel to run the
new generator has been ordered, but will not arrive until about the middle of
July. Until it comes the generator will be operated by one of the present wheels
of the company.
It will require 350 horse power to run the generator at its full capacity,
and with a 50 per cent overload, which it is designed to carry, 500 horse power
must be developed. But the company is not going to depend on this wheel alone
to run its plant. It is now installing a complete steam plant ; capable of operat-
(53)
834 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
ing the electric light plant, the high pressure water pump, the machine shop and
cold storage plant. The new water wheel will do the same and the present
wheels have a like capacity, so it will be seen that the entire plant will have
three sources of power.
The Fourth of July of that year seems to have been a "big time". The
account given in the "Bulletin" of July 6th, 1905, is very entertaining and we give
it here.
CELEBRATION A GRAND SUCCESS
The big Fourth of July and Benton County celebration is over and. without
any exaggeration whatever, it was the biggest thing of the kind ever attempted
in this portion of the state. The weather was perfect although a trifle warm,
the several thousand strangers in attendance were all well taken care of, were
perfectly satisfied with the entertainment ofifered and it was a big advertisement
' for Benton County and its seat of government. Great credit is due to Chief J.
E. jNIerwin of the fire department and his various committees for the splendid
arrangement of their part of the celebration, and credit is also due to Chairman
D. M. Angus of the Benton County committee, to E. B. Williamson, chairman
of the Commercial Club committee, to provide quarters for the invited guests,
and in fact to everybody who had any work to do in connection with the af¥air.
All did their work promptly and well, with the result that there was no hit^h
anywhere and Prosser "made good" on everything promised the public.
The celebration really began at 10:57 Monday night, when the train arrived
from the west bearing Governor Albert E. Mead, Hon. B. S. Grosscup and wife,
State Land Commissioner E. W. Ross, a lot of the leading business men of Xorth
Yakima and many other visitors.
Several hundred citizens gathered at the station to greet the governor and
his party. The Prosser band furnished music, the Grand Army of the Repub-
lic was on hand, each member bearing a shotgun to fire a salute in honor of the
governor, the streets were ablaze with colored lights and, escorted by the Grand
Army and a large delegation of citizens, the governor, in a carriage with Hon.
Nelson Rich, was driven to that gentleman's home, where he was entertained
during his stay in the city. The other visitors were escorted to the Commercial
Club rooms, where a committee assigned them rooms, the citizens generally
throwing open their homes to entertain them, and by midnight the guests were
provided with quarters.
The morning of the Fourth dawned bright and fair, with no wind, the cele-
bration being inaugurated by firing a salute of twenty-one guns at sunrise.
By 9 o'clock all the main streets of the city were packed with the large crowd to
witness the parade and hear the speaking. Every business house was profusely
decorated with bunting and the national colors, while the firemen had decorated
the streets with hundreds of yards of bunting in streamers, the whole making
a pretty efifect. The balloon ascension was the only hitch in the proceedings.
The first ascension was to be at 9 a. m., from Finn's park, but Professor Brooks,
the aeronaut engaged for the occasion, had sent an incompetent stibstitute, and
he was unable to get the balloon inflated. There was no ascension in the morn-
ing in consequence. One was attempted in the evening, but it was a failure.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY ' 835
The aerial "artist" got the balloon partly inflated, went up probabl_v a couple
of hundred feet and immediately descended, the balloon being unable to sus-
tain his weight. When it was freed it ascended almost as high as the crest of
the Horse Heaven hill collapsed and dropped to the ground, the grand "ascen-
sion" proving to be a fluke. This was no fault, however, of the committee. It
had engaged a competent man and it was no fault of the management that they
were sent an inexperienced substitute.
The parade, under the direction of Sheriff McNeill, grand marshal of the
day, assisted by A. J. Grosscup, Elmer Bernard and E. Campbell, formed on
time at the Opera House. It was led by the grand marshal, followed by a car-
riage, gaily decorated, containing Governor Mead, Hon. B. S. Grosscup, Auditor
F. H. Gloyd and E. L. Boardman. Next came the Kennewick band, followed in
order by the fire department and the Liberty car in the first division. On the
hook and ladder wagon, sitting on a platform. Miss Efifie Rogers, dressed in red,
represented the fire fighters, while Miss Mabel Chisholm was the Goddess of
Liberty, the car also containing a young lady dressed in white for each state of
the union. The next division contained the "Si Plunk Band" being members of
the Prosser Band dressed in fantastic costume, the floats of the business men
and cariages of citizens, the whole constituting an imposing spectacle. The
line of march as published was covered, thousands witnessing the parade, which
disbanded in front of the Prosser Hotel to hear the speaking. Among the floats
the following are worthy of mention :
M. D. Baker & Co., representation of an elephant with "Nancy", a pet dog,
fantastically dressed in the national colors, sitting on its back.
The St. Paul & Tacoma Lumber Company, fine representation of a giraffe.
Nessly & Meyer, a representation of a Riverdale ten-acre orchard tract.
Wm. Guernsey, a representation of a bed chamber, completely furnished.
A. W. Hinkle, a complete harness and saddlery shop.
The Citizens' State Bank, a handsomely decorated cart containing two little
girls. The sign was made of $20 bills, 200 of them being used in its construction.
The Prosser Falls Land & Power Company, a representation of the mayor
signing an electric franchise.
The Prosser Record, a reproduction of the heading of the paper.
Frank Burgoyne, the plumber, had a neat float representing a bath room.
A FLOW OF ORATORY.
At the speaking, the hotel balcony being used as the stand, Auditor F. H.
Gloyd presided and made a most appropriate address of welcome, also briefly
reviewing the three fights in the legislature for the county division. He was
listened to with close attention and frequently interrupted by hearty applause.
At the conclusion of his remarks he introduced the Hon. B. S. Grosscup of
Tacoma, at whose suggestion the county was named Benton, for the late Thomas
Hart Benton, the great Missouri statesman, who saved this entire Northwest
Territory to the Union. Mr. Grosscup spoke as a taxpayer of Benton County
in which he owns more property, he said, than anywhere else. As has been
before mentioned in these columns, he is heavily interested in a ranch of several
836 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
thousand acres in the Horn precinct on the lower Yakima, which will shortly
have more irrigated land under cultivation than any other farm in the state.
His speech was partially devoted to a review of the public services of Senator
Benton, which proved to be very interesting to the residents of Benton County.
Mr. Grosscup was proud, he said, to be interested in this county, which has a
magnificent future before it and is destined to become one of the richest counties
in the entire northwest. He cautioned economy in the administration of its
affairs, made a masterly speech throughout, which "The Bulletin" will endeavor
to publish in full next week.
Hon. Lee A. Johnson of Sunnyside, representative of Yakima County, was
the next speaker. Hte had made no preparation whatever, but nevertheless made
a speech that was full of thought, which breathed patriotism and good govern-
ment in every line and which was a fine oratorical effort as well. It was Mr.
Johnson's duty to "give the bride away", as it were, on behalf of Yakima County,
which he did very handsomely, wishing the new county of Benton Godspeed,
speaking of its marvelous resources and great future, complimenting its people
and the beautiful and rapidly growing city of Prosser. There was humor as
well as meat in Mr. Johnson's speech when he referred to the fact that this
county has been called "Johnson's bob-tailed county." He was proud to have
been able to help create it and, while it did not get all the territory to which it
thought it was entitled, still the child did not get of its parents everything it
wants, but usually got as much as was good for it. The parent county, said "Sir.
Johnson, would be good to this young infant, would exercise a fostering care
of it, give it advice and assistance in every way and, in return it could do no bet-
ter than to emulate Yakima County in its government and in other ways. The
speech was an unusually happy effort and added much to the occasion.
The governor was the next and last speaker and on being introduced was
tendered an ovation. He said, in part:
"I shall remember with a great deal of pleasure the fact that, as governor
of this state, I was given the honor of appending my signature to a document
which set in motion the wheels of your county government and brought into
existence the 37th county of this progressive commonwealth.
"In asking and receiving what might be considered a county charter, you
have acted in obedience to the inherent desire of not only every American
citizen, but of every human being who knows something of civilization and of
organized government, to have and enjoy to the fullest the benefits of local self-
government, or what is popularly known as home rule.
"Realizing that in some localities of our country the administration of civil
affairs is perverted by the venality, unfaithfulness and dishonesty of once trusted
public servants and public officials, in your capacity as founders and fathers of
a new community an opportunity is given you to set an example for the other
communities of this state and throughout the country of civic righteousness and
a clean and pure administration of your local affairs.
"We dare not trust our imaginations in forecasting the great future that is
yours as the result of the development and maintenance of the mighty irriga-
tion system that will be created in this community and in other portions of
eastern Washington under the guiding hand of the Federal Government.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY x 837
"You will demonstrate that this fair land was not doomed to be the habita-
tion of silence and desolation ; you will prove that the waters of this great
stream were not intended to roll on in sullen silence to the Pacific, but that they
were intended by a beneficent providence to be utilized, harnessed, managed and
controlled so that these plains should teem with the life and activity of a proud,
industrious, well-to-do, liberty-loving. God-fearing people.
"The observance of this July day would be an idle ceremony if we were
insensible of our glorious history; of the victories of our armies and navies; of
the achievements of our diplomats and statesmen; of the yielding of nature to
the forces of science discovered and applied by the American inventor; of the
skill of the American artisan ; of the industry and intelligence of the American
wage earner; of the zeal of our institutions and religion; of the investigation
and propagation of the truth in our institutions of learning; of the literature
graced by the names of Emerson, Longfellow, Lowell and Whittier. Why
should not an American citizen be proud of his country, of its achievements, of
its progress, of its standing before the nations of the world?
"True, we are confronted with troubles in the industrial world, aggravated
and intensified in some localities by unworthy leaders, who present dangerous
evils in an attractive light. But we may enjoy the satisfaction of knowing that
in the final settlement of all difficulties affecting our domestic peace and happi-
ness we will be able at the critical moment to rely on the plain common sense
of the American people to mete out in full and rounded measure the even-handed
justice the conditions require.
"In conclusion, my friends, there is no reason under the heavens why the
people of this state should not on this anniversary day express that deep feeling
and patriotism that have always been a characteristic of the American people.
"You can well afford to gather here and pay your respects to the God of
nations, who has so kindly and generously favored this people."
After paying a tribute to the memory of the late Secretary Hay, the gov-
ernor concluded by expressing, on behalf of the 800,000 people of the state of
Washington to the people of Benton County congratulations for the success of
this anniversary day, and for the interest and pride they have shown in the
future well-being of the commonwealth.
THE SPORTS
The ball game between North Yakima and Prosser was the next attraction,
the grounds being crowded to their utmost capacity, the governor and his party
being interested spectators. An account of the game is published elsewhere.
After it was over the greased pig was turned loose on the grounds and was
caught and held by the Yakima players, which seemed to be the only game at
which they could win. And at that the pig was so fat that it couldn't run much.
The sports were held on Sixth Street after the ball game. There were a large
number of entries in every event, the results being as follows :
Girls' Race — Won by Miss Bromwall, prize $3 : Miss Specker $2, Miss
Ponti $L
Boys' Race— Won by R. Shearer, prize .$3.50; F. Mason $2.50.
838 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
150 Yard Race— Won by R. Shaw, prize $10: S. Parker $5.
Fat jNIan's Race — Won by U. S. Case, of Rattlesnake, prize $3.
High and Broad Jumps — Both won by R. Shaw, prizes $2 and $3.
Long Race — Won by S. Parker, prize $10. Murray $7.50, R. Shaw $5.
,\T THE RIVER
A crowd of over a thousand people gathered at the wliarf at 5 o'clock to
witness the aquatic sports. L'nfortunately, the "Prosser Queen", the big steam-
boat, had gone up the river at 2 o'clock and did not get back, on account of
striking a rock, until after 6. A number of people were on the afternoon tri^^
and a second excursion was made in the evening. The crowd, however, saw
a good skif? race of one mile, the starters being Halm and ]\Iacumber, rowing
one boat. Huff and Miller another and O. Stranwold, rowing single. The latter
of course, was badly handicapped, but made a good race against two pair of
oars and kept even for about half the course. Halm and Macumber won, prize
$7.50; Hufif and Miller $5. There was an exhibition of walking a greased pole,
extending over the water, that caused a good deal of fun. Nelson Rich, Jr., tak-
ing first money, $5, and Harold Guernsey second,' $2.50. The owners of the
gasoline launches took a number of the visitors out for rides on the river. Mayor
Taylor entertaining a party of half a dozen North Yakima Inisiness men.
FIREWORKS AND BALL
The fireworks display at night was a brilliant event, but was marred by
an unfortunate accident, Arthur Mason, eighteen years old, a fireman and son
of J. F. Mason, having a giant firecracker explode in his right hand. His hand
was badly lacerated, his face and neck powder burned and his side and leg
bruised. Dr. Angus, who is attending him, thinks he will be able to save all
the fingers, his injuries being very painful, but not dangerous unless blood poison-
ing should set in. The ball was a big and grand event, several hundred people
attending, despite the hot weather. There was also a ball in the new Kemp
Building on the north side.
The ])rogress of the Prosser region in the vital matter of irrigation, is
recorded in the "Pulletin" of July 13, l')05:
PROSPECTS ARE GOOD FOR GOVERNME.XT IRRIG.XTION
The people of Prosser and vicinity are justified in the belief, "The Bulletin"
I)elieves. that the Federal Government will undertake the great irrigation project
in this vicinity, known as the Ledbetter scheme. It will reclaim 150,000 acres
beginning a few miles east of Prosser and extending to the Columbia River.
Every acre of the land lies in the new county of Benton. It includes most of
the 57,000 acres of state lands selected under the Carey Act. L'ntil the confer-
ence at North Yakima on Wednesday of last week the selection of the state
lands was standing in the way of this great project. Now. however. State Land
Commissioner E. W. Ross and Governor :\lead have agreed, with representatives
of all the commercial clubs in the vallev, to advise the Secretarv of the Interior
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 839
to withhold his approval of the state selections until he receives a report from
the Reclamation service.
It is confidently expected that that report will be to the effect that the pro-
posed watering of these state lands under the tentative contract between the state
and the Washington Irrigation Company will prevent the Government from
undertaking the Ledbetter scheme. The way will be open, therefore, for the
Government to proceed. There are now two corps of Government engineers,
under Engineers Bliss and Hewitt, making surveys of this project, including
measuring the water in the river and securing all data necessary preliminary to
starting operations. Those engineers were brought here about three weeks ago
by Engineer Noble, chief of the Reclamation service in Washington. It is
known that he is favorable to the Ledbetter project. The Government engin-
eers have been at work on it for over a year. Their investigations have now
proceeded far enough, it is believed, to justify them in recommending to the
department that the work be taken up.
The plans also include raising the dam in the Yakima River at this point
about 16 feet, which will be necessary in order to cover more land than the Led-
better Canal contemplated irrigating. This would also be a great thing for
Prosser, as it would make the Yakima River navigable for 30 miles above the
town by allowing boats to pass over Rocky Ford, about nine miles above the city.
The "Bulletin" also believes that, in connection with this Ledbetter pro-
ject, the Government seriously contemplates purchasing the Sunnyside Canal.
Despite the reports from Washington that the offer of its owners will not be
considered, it is known here that Government engineers are now engaged in
making the closest possible examination of the canal, its land and water rights,
and they are liable to report favorably on the proposition. If they do, the
Sunnyside Canal would be used as the basis for the project under contemplation.
It would be enlarged to about four times its present size, the only portion of
the main canal that would be used as the basis for the big system being that
from the intake from the Yakima to a point about Zillah, a distance of some
17 miles. The main canal below that point would be used as a lateral, the
extension of the 17 mile stretch being on a higher line than the present canal.
The Sunnyside Canal is valuable to the Government for this svstem of
irrigation contemplated, not only on account of the land it covers, but also for
the water rights of the company. It has rights in the river which the Reclama-
tion service has not, and which it manifests no disposition to ignore. The pur-
chase of the canal would carry with it these rights. This is also true of the
Prosser Falls Land & Power Company. Its rights in the river are subsequent
to those of the Washington Irrigation Company, owner of the Sunnyside Canal,
but the two concerns claim more water than the river flows at its lowest stage
in August. The appropriation of the former company calls for 600 cubic feet
per second of time. In order to settle with it a proposition has been made to
E. F. Benson, its president, to give him a greater head of water by raising the
dam here, when he would be satisfied, it is thought, with about one-third the
amount. He uses the water to irrigate about 2,000 acres of land by pumping
from the river into a high line canal ; also to generate electricity for lighting and
power purposes. His irrigating canal, if the Government undertakes the Led-
840 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
better scheme as here outHned, would probably also be taken over by the Fed-
eral authorities. No such settlement as can be made with Mr. Benson is pos-
sible with the owners of the Sunnyside Canal, for the reason that all the water
in the river to which it is entitled is used for irrigation purposes. As before
stated, the Government must respect the rights of these two companies.
The prediction is here made that it will settle with the Washington Irriga-
tion Company by purchasing the Sunnyside Canal, and with the Sunnyside Canal,
and with the Prosser Falls Land & Power Company by raising the dam at this
point and taking over its irrigation system. With these two largest water rights
in the new river adjusted it will not be a difficult matter for the government to
settle with the smaller appropriators.
From the facts here outlined, the conviction is growing here that at last,
after several years of waiting, the Government is about to do something for
the Yakima Valley in the way of practical irrigation. Lentil the past few weeks,
the people of this Valley were discouraged and doubted whether any work would
be done. Now, however, their hopes are renewed, and, if "The Bulletin" is not
very much mistaken, all preliminaries will be settled during the present year,
and next Spring the Federal Reclamation service will actually begin construc-
tion work on an irrigation scheme in the Yakima Valley that will be worth mil-
lions of dollars to the state.
Often times more historj' of a town can be found in its advertisements than
in any other data, and we include here a page of these records from the "Bul-
letin" of July 13, 1905. Following the ads, as will be seen is a valuable list of
the churches and lodges of that date.
Some advertisements appearing in "The Bulletin", July 13, 1905.
B. E. McGregor, dr. d. :\l angus,
City Attorney. Physician and Surgeon.
Careful attention given to all legal O^ce in the Angus Drug Corn-
business, pany's new brick building. Calls an-
Probate and irrigation law a spec- ^^^'^'"^^ ^ay or night.
ialtv.
DR. R. A. CALKIN,
Insurance and collections. Dentist
Contest cases defended. qA^^^ -^^ ^^^j^'j. b,^^,.^
( )ffice hours 8 to 12 a. m. : 1 to 5 p. m.
C. H. HINMAN, p ^Vash.
North Yakima, Wash.
Practices before United States land
DR. FRENCH,
office. Real estate. Rooms 1 and 2, Masonic Building.
T, , . , ^ , , , . ^ Prosser. Wash.
lownship plats and blue pnnts. ,,..,, , rr , , ■ ,
J , . \\ ill be at office day and night un-
less engaged professionally.
C. C. McCOWN, M. D. DR. H. WELLAND HOWARD,
-Ml calls attended, city or country. Physician and Surgeon.
Office room 12, New Taylor block. Rooms 1 and 2, Taylor Block.
Prosser, ^^'ash. Prosser, Wash.
St. Mattliew's F.piseopal t'hurcl
CHURCHES OF PROSSER
HISTORY OF YAKIAIA VALLEY
841
S. P. FLOWER,
U. S. Commissioner and Notary
Public. Filings and final proof on
government land.
Mabton, Wash.
SAMUEL H. MASON,
Attomey, Justice of Peace and
Police Magistrate. Notary Public,
Real Estate, Insurance.
Room 9, Taylor Blk., Prosser.
ANDREW BROWN,
Lawyer.
General Law Practice. Collections
and Insurance. Room 10, Taylor
Block.
Prosser, Wash.
LEDGERWOOD & HARRISON,
Attorneys at Law.
Prosser, Wash.
HI. DUSTIN,
Attorney at Law.
Room 3. Masonic Block.
Prosser, Wash.
J. W. CALLICOTTE,
Attorney at Law.
Twenty years practice. Room 3,
Taylor Block.
Prosser, Wash.
LAURA PALMOUIST,
Instructor of Piano.
\'ocal and kindergarten music.
Theory and harmony taught with
piano. Seventy-five cents per lesson
of forty minutes.
STORK CIGAR STORE,
A. Wiese, Proprietor.
Cigars, Tobaccos, Smokers' Arti-
cles, Choice Confectionery, Fruits,
Soft Drinks, Ice Cream.
Corner Sixth and Bennett,
Prosser, Wash.
H. H. GUILD, REAL ESTATE,
Room 10, Taylor Block.
Horse Heaven and Rattlesnake
wheat land. Irrigated lands and re-
linquishments.
Church Societies
christian church
All Christian Church services in new Tabernacle opposite I. O. O. F. Hall.
Sunday school at 10 a. m. Services of worship, sermon and communion at
11 a. m. Christian Endeavor 5:30 p. m. Prayer meeting Thursday evening.
General invitation extended to all services.
M. A. Thompson, Pastor.
C.\THOLIC.
There will be services at the Catholic Church the last Sunday in each
month. Father Parodi, North Yakima, officiating.
METHODIST
Sunday school at 10 a. m. : preaching at 11 a. m. : class meeting at 12 m. ;
Junior League at 3 p. m. ; Epworth League at 5:30 p. m. : preaching at 7:30
p. m. All are cordially invited. W. C. Smith, Pastor.
Residence next to the church.
mZ HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
UNITED PRESBYTF.RIAN
Preaching every Sabbath morning at Fairview schoolliouse in "Horse-
Heaven" at the hour of 10 o'clock, followed by Bible study at 11 o'clock.
Preaching at Prosser Opera House every Sunday afternoon at 3 :30. Spe-
cial music in the song service and praise. A cordial welcome to all.
J. S. Thompson, Pastor.
SECRET SOCIETIES
A. F. & A. M. — Euclid Lodge will hold regular communications on the
first and third Saturdays of each month. Sojourning brethern are welcome.
Andrew Carledge, W. M. : G. H. Pearl, Sec.
K. of P. — Prosser Lodge No. 130. Regular meetings every Tuesday eve-
ning in I. O. O. F. Hall. P. E. Maddox, C. C. : W. H. Bernard, K. of R. and
S. Visiting knights welcome.
I. O. O. F. — Prosser Lodge Xo. 154. Meeting each Saturday evening.
H. W. Creason, N. G. ; Albert Smith, Sec.
I. O. O. F.— Pearl Rebekah Lodge Xo. 107. Alma Smith X. G. ; Grace
Angus, Sec.
Al. W. A. — Camp Xo. 6100. Meeting each Monday evening. C. A. War-
ner, y. C. : A. Hinkle, Clerk.
AI. W. A. — Royal Neighbors. Riverside Camp Xo. 2834. ]ilrs. Clara
W'ilgus, Oracle ; Mrs. Iva Jenks, Recorder.
W. O. W. — Woodland Echo Circle No. 319, Women of Woodcraft. Meet-
ing in new Masonic Hall the second and fourth Tuesday afternoon in each
month. Visiting Neighbors invited to attend. Emma Roberts, G. N. : Emma
Warnecke, Clerk.
G. A. R. — Major John.sGn Post No. 114. Meets first and third Saturdavs
of each month. Commander, A. F. Jackson: quartermaster Charles Perrv.
W. R. C. — Major Johnson Auxiliary. "Sleets every second and fourth
Saturday afternoon at 2 o'clock. Elizabeth Perry, President ; Lucv Mills, Sec-
retary.
Order of Eagles — Prosser Aerie Xo. 960. Meets every Friday evening
1. O. O. F. Hall. Joseph Ponti, secretary.
SCHOOLS. CHURCHES AXD LODGES OF THE PRESENT
Preceding pages have given the history of these vitally important institu-
tions in the town. We will include in these paragraphs the present record.
From the superintendent of the Prosser schools we derive the following
facts relative to the schools :
Prosser High School was founded September 15, 1902, under E. Bowler,
superintendent. The present high school building was erected in 1907. Pres-
ent high school facult}- : P. A. Wright, superintendent : W. S. Hodge, principal :
Caroline Hardick, English : AUene Dunn, mathematics : Pearl Hutchinson, do-
mestic art: Ethel Hughes, music: Mrs. Warren Hawley, commercial. The
present directors are E. A. Wise, chairman: Lee Ferguson, clerk: J. Kelly De
Priest. High school enrolhuent, 130: grade enrollment. 4^30: value of school
property, $109,300.
We have already given in a quotation from the "Bulletin" the churches
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 843
and lodges of an earlier date. The lodges have remained essentially the same.
The churches and pastors at present date are the following :
Presbyterian, W. S. Richie; Christian, Lee Ferguson; Methodist Episcopal,
T. A. Graham; Episcopal, Leonard R. Smith; Baptist, Mr. Bale; Catholic,
Father Richards.
KIONA .\ND BENTON CITY
We derive from Mrs. W. A. Kelso, the following data about the starting
of the town of Kiona and the Kiona schools:
Kiona was a station made when the Northern Pacific Railroad was built
through, in 1885. William Neil was section foreman and his family was the
first to live in the place. At that time Mrs. Kelso was Miss Libbie Ketcham.
She taught the first school at Kiona in 1886 with the Neil family of four chil-
dren for pupils. This school was on this side (south side) of Yakima River,
but a few years later the small schoolhouse was moved across the river on ice.
and school has since been located about half wav between Kiona and Benton
City.
As the traveler, either by rail or road, will readily discover, there is a
natural break between the Prosser section of Benton County and the Columbia
River section. This is occasioned by the closing of the higher land over the
Yakima River, leaving a narrow gateway through which the river passes directly
north to ''The Horn," making its way thence southeasterly to the Columbia.
This barrier will be reclaimed to considerable degree by the laterals of the
Sunnyside extension, and thus the barrier and the gateway will sometime con-
stitute a scene of verdure and productiveness connecting the two sections.
Just at the point of the sharp bend to the north at the eastern edge of the
"Gateway" are the villages of Kiona and Benton City. The townsite of Kiona
was laid out in 1902 by Kelso Brothers, formerly of Walla Walla. Mrs. Ken-
nedy was also a part owner of the property. The Kelso Brothers have continued
to conduct the chief business enterprises to the present. A two-story school
building was erected in the first years of the town's existence, Mrs. H. H.
Nagle and Miss N. N. Williams being the first teachers. At the present date
a four-year high school is maintained. The present principal is H. Lacey Squibb,
assisted by a corps of six teachers, whose names appear in the teachers' direc-
tory in the chapter on County History.
While there is nothing to make a large town at Kiona the region aroumi
is one of great possibilities, and with the development of the irrigation svsteni
there will be a great growth insuring a fine business center.
Benton City is right opposite Kiona on the Yakima River and on the O.-W.
R. & N. line. It has a splendid location and was laid out with great expecta-
tions and ambitious aims, entering the county seat contest as already noticed.
It was founded in 1909 by F. L. Pitman, an engineer on the railway system.
The town was laid out under the wing of the railway company. The times
were not propitious for townsite enterprises, and after the erection of some
excellent buildings and the inauguration of prospective improvements on a great
scale, the townsite passed into the hands of the Spokane and Eastern Trust
Company as trustee. Mr. .S. J. Harrison of Sunnyside, the chief builder of
844 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
that fine citv, became interested in Benton City and organized the Benton
Land Company for handhng the townsite and the adjoining acreage. Mr.
Harrison contemplated the creation of a colonization system similar to that
whicli had proved so successful at Sunnyside. But after much effort and well
planned advertising, it was seen that the time was not yet propitious. The
town has assumed the role of a fine village and local center, well equipped with
schools, church, and business establishments. Like Kiona, Benton City will
become a trading center commensurate with the growth of the splendid country
around.
KENNEWICK
An attractive feature of the cities and towns through which we are passing
in this journey is the presence in them of character. They are distinctive. Xo
one seems to duplicate or imitate others. Something in the environment or the
hitorical setting or the prevailing industry, or the type of architecture, imparts
an individuality to each. All the way from Roslyn to Kennewick there is a
certain local effect which fixes in the mind of the observer an impression of
each town that remains distinct in memory. And this air of distinctiveness
exists in spite of a general sameness in external nature and in certain regular
features of construction. As we look out of car windows or from auto-seats,
we see the same brown, treeless hills and sagebrush plains at those places yet
untouched by water. And where the vitalizing streams have flowed we see the
green of the alfalfa or the snowy cataracts of apple-bloom, if it be Spring, or
the gold and crimson of the perfected fruit, if it be Autumn, or the nodding
tassels of the corn, if it be the season. We see in every town the high school
building on the most conspicuous eminence that the topography affords. And
yet the sameness in these general respects does not defeat the essential unique
personality of each place. There is something which the traveler will associate
with each town by which to remember it. If he closes his eyes and says
"Kennewick," the visions that come to his mind first of all will no doubt be
the river and the highlands with the Olmstead addition. The Columbia River
is in itself an asset of immeasurable interest and value. And while other towns
have their Highlands and Nob Hills, the Kennewick Highlands are different.
From the wide sweep of the open spaces at the edge of tlie Highlands the sight-
seer gets the full benefit of these two leading features of the topography. .\nd
the river, always and everywhere grand and inspiring, is peculiarly so at this
point of vantage.
For southeasterly from the Highlands the junction of the Snake and the
Columbia lies revealed, one of the most significant points geographicallv and
historically on the continent. Here the great southern branch, rising in the
Yellowstone Park and flowing 900 miles through towering mountains, arid
plains, volcanic chutes, and abysmal canons, with fertile plateaus above, casts
its turbid waters into the clear blue flood of the great master river from the
north, which in its cour.'ie from the glaciers of the Canadian Rockies has accu-
mulated a flow of water surpassed only by the Mississippi of all the rivers of
the .American Union.
As we look it is interesting to call up the figures given by the Government
' HISTORY OF YAKniA VALLEY 845
engineers of the volumes of the two big streams. The extreme minimum of
the Snatce was 12,000 cubic feet per second, and the extreme maximum ( in the
great flood of 1894) was 400,000 second feet. The Columbia at Celilo has had
an extreme minimum of 50,000 second feet, while in the flood of 1894 it reached
the monstrous figure of 1,600,000 second feet. It can be seen that the capacity
of the rivers for power, navigation, and irrigation is limitless.
As we look at the sublime spectacle of the union of the big rivers, with
the boundless plains to east and north and the snow-streaked and azure heights
of the Blue Mountains to the southeast, we summon to the mind's eye the fleets
of trappers in canoes and bateaux descending the impetuous current with the
gathered furs of the winter's trade. Or we go yet further back, and see the
first white men whose eyes viewed this scene, Lewis and Clark, and trace their
course from their camping point at the present village of Burbank up the great
northern branch, landing at our very feet and making their way through the
sagebrush, shooting sage-hens as they went, till they reached the Yakima, or,
as they called it, the Tapteal. The phantoms of Indians of many generations
might be summoned,' too. to gather again at what must have been one of their
favorite resorts.
We shall find as we come down from the heights with all these scenic and
historic associations that the town which has been created in the last quarter
of a centur\' is worthy of its sightly location. For its homes and streets and
public buildings are a plain demonstration of that irrepressible American spirit
of building, inventing, planning, overcoming the wilderness, planting civilization.
We are fortunate in having the aid of two of the daughters of Kennewick
to perfect the picture of the history which we are giving in but rough outline.
In the next chapter will be found some recollections of the first days by one
best qualified of any to write of it, Mrs. Daisy Beach Emigh, the first girl in
Kennewick.
We are also using in this chapter a sketch of the prehistoric conditions,
followed by something of the early history, by Mrs. W. T. Mann. This sketch
was first prepared for the Woman's Club, then appeared in the "Reporter" of
some years ago, and was much and justly admired as a local contribution to
history. In accordance with the opinion of the author that local study and
literature are entitled to prominent places in any history of a community, this
article by Mrs. Mann is employed here as a fitting initiation of the story of
Kennewick :
It was Patrick Henry who said that the only means of forecasting the
future is by recalling the past.
GEOLOGICAL CONDITIONS MAKING KENNEWICK WHAT IT IS TODAY
In the great long ago, perhaps millions of years, this region was a vast
system of volcanoes and the only reminders we have are Alounts Rainier, Hood
and Adams and minor peaks to the north of this section.
We have evidence of nature's gigantic struggles, at Flume Xo. 1, Kenne-
wick Canal — here can be seen how large boulders were cast hither and thither
and then the flow of hot mud filling up the interstices, then turning into a hard
846" HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
stony mass. Then we ha\-e imprints of tish, ferr.s, grasses, etc., in the "W'liite
Bluffs," thirty-five miles up the river. Again we can see undisputed evidences
of the great upheaval at Providence Hill, and five miles south of Kennewick,
the rocks have been cleaved as though cut to order, all standing on edge.
Mr. Sonderman, one of the early settlers, has in his possession a piece
of charred wood encountered by a drill through 420 feet of solid rock. Thi.-
piece of wood was found in "Horse Heaven," fifteen miles southwest of Ken-
newick.
Geologists tell us the location of Kennewick. and adjacent lands, was once
an immense lake, fed by numerous mountain streams, evidence of which may
still be seen in the Horse Heaven canyons and a very familiar one is the empty
but still evident stream bed in Section 11, of Kennewick Highlands. Then for
ages these lava laden mountain streams ran their courses, carrying volcanic
ashes, worn rocks, etc., from far up among the Rockies, gradually filling up
this lake. Alennwhile througli chemical action and through nature by means
of avalanches, landslides meeting glaciers, etc., the courses of the streams were
changed until they formed one mighty river — referred to in Bryant's Thana-
topsis as the "Oregon," but explored by Captain Gray in 1792 and named Columbia.
We have evidences of several water levels ten miles east of Ellensburg,
Washington. Here the waters made their erosions in solid rock. Does it
require days, weeks, months, or years for water to cut into a hard rock ? Surely
it must have taken at least a few days.
Then we have the great "fault line," thirty miles to the west of here, which
extends from river to river or north and south and which will forever dejirive
this section of artesian water.
Xow we are obliged to consider the glacial period — did those great icebergs
ever cross Kennewick lands? If not, how do we account for those big, smooth,
giant boulders found scattered in isolated sections? We have no granite hills
or deposits within two hundred miles of this section. Then we know there
are these great deposits of volcanic ash 500 feet deep. And we ha\e these
same ^conditions every year around us. only on a smaller scale, ^\"as this
country inhabited by human beings before this great disturbance took place?
We know not. If so, did they grow strawberries, peaches, plums, etc.? And
so having a fair conception of our soil formation which our learned men of
today are now making every efifort to test and to determine just what is best
adapted to grow upon these volcanic deposits, we can inquire further as to the
original life here.
Let us go back to Kennewick, with which we are most concerned. Was
this country ever inhabited by mastodons? Yes, a shoulder blade or part of
one was uncovered by Mr. Richards in 1898, and was three inches thick and
two feet wide. This was uncovered about seven miles from Kennewick in one
of the canyons, and several tusks of these animals have been found.
The Indians of this locality consisted princi])allv of the Umatillas. Wallo-
was and Yakimas. They made their homes along the Columbia, Snake and
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 847
Yakima rivers, ranging up and down stream according to climatic conditions,
etc. Their occupation was barter and sale in horses, fishing and hunting.
There is every evidence to show that great Indian battles were fought be-
tween the tribes along the Columbia and Yakima Rivers long before white
men came and settled. In 1894 an Indian skull was found three miles from
the mouth of Snake River, with an arrow head firmly imbedded in the skull,
and there have been arrow heads found in a solid clay formation eight feet
from the surface of the ground, and thirty years ago the early whites could
not find a single Indian who had any knowledge as to who made these arrow
heads.
An Indian called Old Ba-le, who had reached his sixty-five snows in 1893,
told some of the pioneers of vast herds of antelope, buffalo and other large
game, which ranged over this country when he was a little boy. Also of "big
Injun fights" and other events in Indian life. But there was nothing, not even
a tradition, as to who made these arrow heads.
In 1902 there was found a part of a pipe fifteen miles above Kennewick
which was pronounced by Air. Harlen Smith, professor of Archaeology, Xa-
tional Museum of Arts, New York City, as belonging to a race of people far
beyond any people of this age. This pipe was found four feet under ground
and is now in possession of said institution, properly credited to this section.
We have been told that fifty years ago where Kennewick now stands, the
wild bunchgrass grew waist high, and the Hudson's Bay Company cut hay
here and towed it on rafts to Wallula, and vast herds of cattle and horses
roamed these hills.
In the Winter of 1886 there was thirty inches of snow on the level and the
thermometer was 21 degrees below zero, causing a great loss of life to cattle
and horses.
KENNEWICK DERIVATION.
In seeking the source or origin of the word "Kennewick" we must go to
the year 1883. This date, according to Air. H. S. Huson, formerly a civil engineer
of the Northern Pacific Railroad Company, is the correct date when our fair
city received its baptism "Kennewick." Mr. Huson is the author of this name,
and it is of Indian tongue and was pronounced Kin-ne-wack, meaning a grassy
place, and in the course of his business he (Huson) was obliged to use this
word so often, he eventually found himself writing the word "Kennewick." At
one time Kennewick postoffice was named "Te he" being called Te he under
rather ridiculous conditions. When the wife of an engineer was shown the
beautiful depot building which her husband had written her about and in her
efforts to express her delgiht or disgust she laughed something like this, "Te-
he." The bystanders immediately called the place "Te-he." There can be no
mistake about our little city being called "Te-he" in the past, no matter how it
originated, as there is proof that letters w-ere received here addressed to "Te-
he." Washington, sent by our Government. The word bears a close resemblance
to "Pa ha" of Indian origin, a station on the Northern Pacific Railroad, nineteen
miles west of Ritzville, \\'ashington.
848 HISTORY OF YAKBIA VALLEY
SETTr.EMENTS AND OCCUPATIONS
According to our Government survey notes this country was surveyed in
1864. These notes speak of sparse settlements along the Columbia River,
engaged in the range stock industry, but do not give any definite locations.
There were many evidences of settlers as early as 1858. However, our interests
concern Kennewick, its rise and fall during its infancy.
KEXXEwicK. 1883 Tu 1889
The first and original townsite was platted on a tract of ground now cov-
ered by the G. AI. Annis buildings and orchard. It was a real railroad town
with the necessary temporary buildings, including a six stall roundhouse, coal
bunkers, turn-table, etc. The town was built during the construction of the
bridge across the Columbia River and the road through to the coast. Prior to
the completion of the bridge, all trains were transferred over the river by ferry
boats, thus making Kennewick a terminal. Relics of transfer days are still in
evidence in the old piers, etc., near the river docks. The road passed through
where the Garber home now stands, thence west one mile, where it followed
the present line,
\Mien bridge and road work ce'ased. Kennewick became "nil." The first
hotel was operated by C. A. Lum, a pioneer of 1885. The lumber for this hotel
was shipped by boat from Portland, the lumber costing $30.00 per thousand.
One of the first merchants was Joe Dimond, a Jew. The first postmaster was
Mr. Knowlton. Soon after Mr. Conway was appointed postmaster, the post-
office occupying part of his private residence. The first small schoolhouse was
built by donation. The school building was destroyed by fire the same year.
Among the first white women to come to Kennewick were Mrs. Sproul,
sister-in-law of Dr. Hedger of Benton City ; Mrs. C. A. Smith, now of Seattle ;
Mrs.' C. E. Lum and others. When the bridge and road work ceased, many
of the drifting population followed in the wake and moved on. M. C. J. Beach,
a pioneer, with a few others remained, and having faith in future possibilities
platted a new townsite on the south side of the Northern Pacific Railraod track,
or what is now called Beach addition to Kennewick. Nothing further was done,
however. It was a typical western town.
In 1892 a new townsite was platted by the Yakima Irrigation & Improve-
ment Company, located on the north side of the railroad tracks. A fine $30.-
000, three-story hotel was constructed on the grounds where Rev. Osgood now
resides. The hotel was superior in interior finish to any hotel ever since built
in Kennewick. It was called the "White Elephant." A new schoolhouse was
erected and what was once a hopeless barren waste, now showed life, the canal
was being built, land sold, people came fast, times looked good, and the popula-
tion soon developed to four hundred.
After the Yakima Irrigation & Improvement Company began operations on
the canal, another company appeared on the scene called the Ledbetter Com-
pany, each company working on the same canal, one company building a mile
or two, then the other company forestalling them. This canal was called by
the people the "Stovepipe Canal." one company building a joint and then the
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 849
next company. At last the Ledbetter Company abandoned it to the Yakima
Irrigation & Improvement Company.
The hard times of 1894-95 saw another lownsite die a natural death. This
is a picture described to me by one of the pioneer ladies: The town proper con-
sisted of a railroad depot, section house (full of Chinamen), general store and
postoffice (in one), one hotel costing $30,000 (empty), one hotel, the old Hotel
Columbia, which stood where the 0.-^^'. R. & N. depot now stands, occupied by
Mr. Beach, a blackmith shop, meat market (mostly unoccupied), and north side
school, which answered as a church, town hall and all other purposes of a public
nature. Also a saloon, but as all the people were church goers, the saloon keeper
dosed his saloon and started going to church too, and finally left for a better
place. We had an excellent Sunday school and Christian Endeavor and the
ladies had splendid times ; we gave receptions and entertainments, and at Easter
time everybody went out wild-flower hunting and on Sunday the schoolhouse
was a bower of beauty, as the prairies were a garden of wild flowers.
Land anywhere could be bought for $50 to $60 per acre. Before irrigation
the people lived by means of range stock, such as horses, cattle and sheep.
Hkindreds of horses might be seen at one time galloping down the "Horse
Heaven" hills on their way to Columbia River to drink, and the tramp of
their many feet was like the roar of thunder. "Horse Heaven" was so called
on account of the abundance of fine bunchgrass which made a real heaven for
those horses.
The country now known as Section 7, Highlands, Garden Tracts, was
then inhabited by coyotes and jack rabbits and the range stock.
Eighteen hundred ninety-four was the year of the great flood of the Colum-
bia River. No living Indian had ever known or heard of such a flood. Cli-
matic conditions have changed somewhat, caused by a greater moisture. In
the early 'SO's and '90's very little rain fell. The heat began earlier and lasted
longer. The Winters were milder.
The first school district was formed in 1885, and was called Columbia
School District Xo. 17. First school meeting called on ]\Iay 26, 1885. First
scliool directors, Mr. C. J. Beach, A. R. Leeper, A. W. Gray and J. Dimond.
Mrs. Mary Haak was first school teacher at a salary of $40.00 per month.
School opened June 1, 1885. School census showed children five to twentv-one
years of age, males 26, females 19; under five years, males 12, females 12.
Kennewick has never been without schools to the present date.
IRRIG.^TION AND DHVELOPMENTS
Dr. C. A. Cantonwin, now gone ^ to the great beyond, is said to have been
the father of irrigation in this section. No doubt this statement is correct, as
there are several old private canals still in sight along the Yakima River, con-
structed in the early eighties.
In 1889 the Dell Haven Irrigation district operated the canal ditch, but no
canals were built because it takes monev to construct canals, but the people's
(54)
850 ■ HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
firmness and great faith, saw great possibilities in this favored location, hence
the entrance of the Yakima Irrigating & Improvement Company and finally
the Northern Pacific Improvement Company, who assured the work where
others failed. And this company has built well. The previous failures were
caused by times and conditions, and of all canals constructed in the Pacific
Northwest during development period, few survived a failure.
1893 — First newspaper ever published in Kennewick, called the "Colum-
bian," Windfield Harper, editor. Farms and orchards developed, first straw-
berries placed on the market. New schoolhouse completed.
1895 — World's panic finally reaches Kennewick: developments cease,
ranchers discouraged ; break in canal every week.
1896 — Times very bad, nothing at all by way of improvements : ranchers
suspend work: eveiybody discouraged. September 26th big break in canal.
Irrigation takes a vacation until February 4, 1902.
1902 — Northern Pacific Railway Company secures contract for canal ; be-
gins construction work: plats new townsite (present site) : great rush for land,
lots selling rapidly: Johnson & FuUerton erect first important general merchan-
dise store, followed by more stores, residences, etc. Also newspaper by "Pea"
Greene, editor.
1903 — Great prosperity : everybody wants a home in Kennewick : more
stores, banks, homes and various other improvements. Water reaches Kenne-
wick April 7th : great day for the town.
1904 — First automobile appears on streets: first strawberries from "New
Kennewick" go to market and establish highest price for berries ever paid in
Pacific Northwest. Kennewick incorporated, first mayor and council elected.
1905 — Southern Pacific Railway makes arrangements to come to Kenne-
wick. Many buildings going up in town and on ranches. Seventeen thousand
dollar brick schoolhouse erected, also churches : Fruit Growers' Association or-
ganized ; general prosperity.
1906 — First telephone system erected. Electric light and water plant in-
stalled. Fraternal lodges organized : streets graded and trees planted along
streets : great activity in all lines.
1907 — City progressing rapidly : improvements introduced.
1908 — Navigation established through eiiorts of Kennewick business men;
irrigation canal sold by railway company to present owners : Highlands being
prepared for platting.
1909 — Highlands pumping system installed : Pacific Power & Light Com-
pany makes permanent improvements and begins construction of high tension
line from Yakima to Kennewick : land in big demand on Highlands.
1910 — Everv'body busy ; general prosperity.
1911 — First Grape Carnival inaugurated, big success; new $70,000.00 school
building erected ; O.-W. R. &: N. Railway in operation.
1912 — Many modem improvements made in city ; cement sidewalks laid ;
sewer constructed.
1913— Population of Kennewick 2,800; electric lighting established on High-
lands ; first fruit crop on Highlands and many other events of minor importance.
151-1 — General conditions prevail ; Kennewick boosters are now busy on
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 851
the great problem of harnessing of the sun's energy to increase the energy- of
the kennewick people. ^Irs. W. T. Mann.
It may be noted that Mrs. Mann and T\Irs. Emigh tell a dififerent story of
the origin of the sonorous name of the town. That, however, need not dis-
concert either.
It would be a rare thing to find an Indian name that did not yield more
than one derivation. As we noted in the chapter on the Native Races, there
are frequently half a dozen explanations of origin and a dozen ways of spelling
these native names.
As appears in the narration already given Kennewick was laid out on the
homestead filed in 1883 by C. J. Beach. Mr. Beach established himself in the
first part of a new house in the Eall of that year, and in May, 1884, he took
his family there. It appears from Mrs. Emigh's narrative that one house or
cabin was already in existence, that of "Doc" Livingston. In 1884 the Northern
Pacific Railroad reached the Beach claim and it was quickly followed by a
typical little railroad town. Joseph Dimond built the first structure for busi-
ness purposes. Primitive restaurant, hotel, saloon, and grocery store followed.
At that time the huge ferry boat, "Billings," was used for conveying trains to
and fro. A little cluster of railroad men made their homes at the new place.
The railroad company built a roundhouse, turntable, coal bunkers, and
stock yards in the space between the track of today and the river. In 1884 a
rudimentary schoolhouse was built on the Beach place. The first teacher was
Mrs. Haak, followed by T. B. Thompson, and then came Miss Josie Miller.
Apparently there have been three distinct Kennewicks. The period of the
first began with the location of Mr. Beach and his family in 1884 and with the
advent of the railroad, and ended in 1887 with the construction of the bridge.
Pasco then became the division point. Most of the people at Kennewick moved
away. Even Mr. Beach and his family, having lived their allotted five years
on the homestead, moved first to Seattle and then to Ellen.sburg, but returned
in 1892.
The second stage of Kennewick's existence began in 1892. Irrigation
waved his magic wand over the desert, and presto, change! Orchards began
to nod above the sagebrush, alfalfa fields challenged the "ancient solitary reign"
of the jack-rabbits, horned toads, and rattlesnakes, and pretty cottages smiled
across the gray-brown of the landscape.
But this was mainly in imagination. People could see these things with
the eyes of faith, but they were not yet present in tangible form to any great
degree. The Yakima Irrigating & Improvement Company had been formed,
based mainly on eastern capital, had made a filing for 600 second feet of water
in the Yakima River at a point four miles above Kiona and had framed plans
for an immense scheme of reclamation. Several years passed before they began
systematic work. On January 17, 1892, the first furrow was turned in the ditch
which was to convey water to Kennewick. The head of the canal was on the
south side of the river at Horn Rapids. In 1893 the ditch reached Kennewick,
and the next year it reached Hover. Of these events, including the Delhaven
Irrigation district, we have already v.Titten at length in the chapter on Irriga-
852 HISTORY OF YAKBIA \'ALLEY
tion. Suffice it to say that the "Great Depression" wrecked both the company
and the district. The second stage of Kennewick's history — a most interesting
one— ended in seeming defeat and disaster. ]\Iuch improvement had been made.
A fine, ambitious group of homebuilders had come. A Hberal and outgrowing
poHcy of improvement had been adopted. Everything seemed to promise an-
other Yakima on the bank of the CoUimbia. But the hard times were too much.
The ambitious plans failed of realization. Many abandoned their well started
places. The town nearly expired again and by 1899 was almost forsaken. It
is worth noting, however, that during that period certain institutions had be-
come definitely established. The schools had been thoroughly organized and
did not lapse. A newspaper, the "Columbian," had come into existence, but it
had expired without issue, and yet had led the way to one which became in
1902 a permanent journal. Two churches had been built, one by the Presby-
terians, and another jointly used by the Congregationalists and Methodists.
During this period Rev. Samuel Greene of Seattle, Congregational superinten-
dent of Sunday schools, was carrying on his great work through eastern Wash-
ington, devoting a large part of his energies to Kennewick. Thus the time was
not lost altogether, even though the end of the century was a time of disappoint-
ment and financial loss.
The third stage of Kennewick history began with the taking over of the
irrigation enterprise by the Northern Pacific Railroad in 1902, and the end of
it is not yet set, but it is safe to say that the end will not occur till the end of
all things.
We find in the "Courier" much valuable data upon the current history of
Kennewick No. 3. From the issue of March 13, 1903, we extract the following,
on the thriving condition of the little city :
"Surprising progress is being made on all sides at Kennewick, which is
rapidly being transformed from the sagebrush hamlet of a year ago to a popu-
lous, well conducted, modern town, ready for incorporation. In the last ten
days 1,000 acres have changed hands in small tracts, with buyers from all over
the Inland Empire and the west side of W'ashington.
"This morning the Exchange Bank of Kennewick opened for business on
Second and Yakima, with the following officers : President, S. H. Amon :
cashier, C. B. McConnell : vice president, John Shenuan. The bank has a capi-
talization of $25,000, all paid in. It has fine fixtures, including time safe and
vault.
"The Kennewick ^^.ssociation has just had printed 18,000 pamphlets, de-
scriptive of the town. These will be followed by 10,000 more, all to be dis-
tributed in the country tribiitary to the St. Paul, Tacoma and Portland railroad
offices. The Kennewick Association is composed of the Kennewick Land Com-
pany, coiKkicted by H. A. Hover; Thomas Cosgrove and G. E. Hanson, real
estate firm, and the Columbia Land Company, operated by C. A. Lundv and C.
F. Breithaupt. This is the first extensive step taken to advertise the town.
"The Kennewick Improvement Club expects to arrange for street improve-
ments this Spring, when some of the principal avenues are to be graded. Ex-
penses will be borne by mutual assessment. Water courses are to be run along
all the streets to watei- lots and penuit planting of trees. As the companv does
KENXEWICK WII()l.i:sAI.K i i l.'ix ' i:i; -i CO.. K KXXEWICK
THE PRODrCE CO.Ml'ANV, KKXXEWICK
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 853
not furnish water for the tqwnsite, an assessment of $2 a lot will be raised,
if all the lot holders contribute, as expected. The executive committee of the
Improvement Club is : H. A. Hover, C. B. McConnell and R. L. Ballinger.
"Ten new residences will be completed in March, in addition to half a
dozen completed since February 1st. Among business houses finished are the
Haynes millinery store, and the offices of Cosgrove & Hanson and the Columbia
Land Company. Coffin Brothers expect to build additions to the Hotel Ken-
newick and to their store here. Inside work is being done to complete Dr.
William Pallister's large new house and office. The J. N. Scott clothing house,
which came here from Everett, is opening for business the first of this week.
The postoffice is waiting orders from the Department to move to new quarters
twenty-five by sixty on Second Street, where it will have what are said to be
the finest postoffice quarters in the county, next to North Yakima, the fixtures
and equipment of the old Walla Walla postoffice having been brought here.
"The "Kennewick Courier" will be printed by a new owner, C. O. Ander-
son, of Wilcox, Arizona, having bought out E. P. Greene. Mr. Anderson was
proprietor of a mining and stock paper in Wilcox, and is an attorney. Mr.
Greene will improve his land on the ridge southeast of here and conduct a
land business. McKane & Hawkins, saloon men from Paha, have an ice house
erected, and are putting up a building on Second Street for saloon purposes.
They have not yet secured a license from the commissioners of Yakima County.
H. E. Beach will establish a livery business here about the middle of the month.
"The 1,000 acres changing hands last week brought from $65 to $110,
according to the proximity to the town and possession of water right. Water
has been down in the ditch twice within a mile of Kennewick. The company
turns in a little, lets it settle and turns in more with a view to making a perma-
nently secure ditch. All the flumes are built except one, which will soon be
built. Small tracts near town are bringing from $90 to $300 an acre with
perpetual water right. There is strong demand for them. Numerous first class
tracts close in are being bought at $125 for speculative purposes.
"About 1.500 acres have been cleared under the ditch, and most of it has
been leveled preparatory to putting in a crop this season. H. A. Hover alone
has several hundred dollars worth of alfalfa seed here ready to sow on holdings
of his own. Five nursery men who have been in Kennewick during the last
month secured good orders. Two contractors are working about forty horses
between them, clearing land. Work horses are in demand.
BUSINESS HOUSES OF KENNEW^ICK
"Kennewick now has over thirty business houses, as follows : General
stores, Johnson & Fullerton, Robert Gerry, L. S. Erley, Coffin Brothers : furni-
ture and hardware, Rudow & Schweikert, the Kennewick Hardware Company ;
lumber yards. Frank Emigh, St. Paul & Tacoma Lumber Company ; three hotels,
run by W. Keefer, W. A. Flower and C. P. Stanyan : two lodging houes, run
by O. O. Noben and H. A. Hover ; blacksmith shop, H. Schuneman : 'Kennewick
Courier,' C. O. Anderson ; wall paper and paint shop, \L P. Fuller ; bakerv and
restaurant, H. Schimke ; harness shop, C. H. Barrett: billiard hall, H. A. 'Hover;
854 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
clothing store, J. N. Scott; saloon, N. E. Sylvester; Columbia Pharmacy, H. R.
Hayes ; meat market, A. R. Graham : jewelers, Julius Jacot and W. S. Helm ;
livery, C. M. Lloyd; barber shops, B. F. Nye and J. F. Shafer; warehouse,
Lundy, Moore & Crowell ; the Northern Pacific Irrigating Company's office, be-
sides the three real estate companies mentioned, two physicians, three attorneys
and a number of craftsmen.
"The population of Kennewick is about 350. It will be impossible to secure
incorporation before July, when the necessary steps will probably be taken.
"The receipts at the Northern Pacific freight and passenger office here
were $114 for February, 1902. For February, 1903, they were over $5,000.
"The above articles appeared in the 'Spokane Spokesman-Review,' March
10th, and were written by one of their representatives who spent a couple of
days on the ground, carefully investigating facts and figures."
In the issue of the "Courier" of May 1, 1903, we find a number of interest-
ing items, together with "Kennewickles" and advertisements which exhibit in
an interesting way the life of the town of that date.
Quite a ripple of excitement was caused at Kennewick this week over the
discovery of an old Indian burying ground at the lower end of the Kennewick
Valley. The discovery was made by Dan O'iVIalley, a well digger. Further
exploration of the ground revealed a number of skeletons both of Indians and
white men. The bodies had been buried close to the surface, but owing to the
small amount of precipitation of moisture in this vicinity, and the sloping surface
of the ground, the earth covering was dry, and the skeletons, as well as the
relics buried with them were found in a good state of preservation.
Among the articles found was an old flint-lock rifle, its stock long ago
rotted oft", the barrel and lock, although badly rusted, were well enough pre-
served to be carried away as trophies by the fortunate finder. A number of
trinkets unearthed are now in possession of various persons here and are highly
prized. Among those we examined we found two sleigh bells, well preserved,
which, when shaken, jingled their merry chimes, almost as rtaisically as when
carried by the dusky warrior who possessed them many years ago. Broken
hatchets, spear heads, elks' teeth and beads of various kinds and descriptions
formed part of the collection. A piece of cloth, fairly well preserved, was the
object of the greatest curiosity. In appearance it resembled fine cotton matting
spun from weeds or hemp, the coarse threads having been crocheted together.
Tlie coloring had faded under the mutations of time, but enough of the tex-
ture remained to show the skill and industry of the maker.
A few oval shaped brass badges bearing the date 1846 were also found.
Numerous other things swelled the list, but the above were the principal objects
of interest.
The oldest Indians in these parts have been interviewed to ascertain if they
could throw light upon the find. Imdeal Baily, who claims the distinction of
104 snows (years), and Callula Jim with 108 snows upon his hoary locks, ex-
plained that about fifty snows ago several white men and friendly Indians had
been massacred by hostile Indians and their remains buried at this place. Other
than this they either could or would not throw further light upon the mystery.
From another old Indian it was learned that in past centuries, the Kenne-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 855
wick Valley along the Columbia, on account of its mild climate, was a favorite
camping ground for the Indians all over the state of Washington and portions
of Idaho. When the inclement weather of the higher altitudes set in, they
would descend into the low and mild valley about Kennewick, where the ma-
jestic Columbia sweeps down to the sea and take up their abode for the Winter.
Consequently the valley contains numerous burying grounds. Several have
been discovered this Winter and valuable curios secured, but this one seems to
have an element of tragedy connected with it, and further investigation may
throw light upon some bloody scene which fifty years ago was enacted in the
mountain fastness far from the haunts of civilized man.
ADVERTISEMENTS
Edwin P. Greene, Justice of the Peace and U. S. Court Commissioner,
Kennewick, Wash.
COSGROVE & HAN'SUN
Two good homestead relinquishments. One 80-acre desert claim, the best
in Section 26, ^25 per acre. This is a bargain. Eighty acres of the best land
in Section 9, only two miles from town, $62.50 per acre, including water right.
A number of 40-acre tracts in different parts of the Valley, all with water
right.
A beautiful house and lot in the city.
Some of the very best 10-acre garden tracts in Section 7 at bargains.
Several good wheat sections in Horse Heaven Country.
SEE US BEFORE BUYING.
"kennewickles"
The various strawberry patches that have been set out this Spring are
growing rapidly.
Frosts have not touched the fruit in these parts. A fine crop of peaches,
apricots and other fruits is expected.
J. E. Hubbell arrived from New York City Tuesday and will remain in
these parts during the Summer.
C. B. McConnell went to North Yakima Saturday to spend a few days with
his family.
C. F. Breithaupt returned Wednesday from a business trip to outlying
points.
Coffin Bros, have completed their building and are filling up the additional
room with new goods.
The Exchange Bank building has received a new coat of paint this week.
W. D. Owen went to Yakima Sunday, returning Tuesday evening.
W. S. Helm has put up a nice ornamental fence around his house and lot
and also added a screened porch to his residence.
For Sale— Three white Wyandotte Cockerels, $1.00 each. Barred Plymouth
Rock eggs, $1.00 for 13. E. P. Greene.
856 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
C. V. Dyment, staff correspondent of the "Spokesman-Review,"' with head-
quarters at Pendleton, visited Kennewick Saturday.
D. Davidson, of Sunnyside, representing the Washington Xursery Com-
pany at Toppenish, spent Tuesday and Wednesday at Kennewick.
Miss Mary S. Thran, lately from Minnesota, has been assisting Mrs. H.
Schimke in the Kennewick Bakery and Restaurant during the last week.
Capt. W. F. Martin went out to his homestead in Horse Heaven W^ednes-
day. He has teams at work hauling lumber out there and has commenced to
build a house.
The dance last Friday evening, although not a financial success, was an
enjoyable affair and those who attended had a splendid time. The music was
furnished by the North Yakima orchestra.
H. A. Hover has had the lots about his residence in town cleared and
seeded and is irrigating them. He has also put up fences around the lots and
is now building sidewalks in front of them.
Mr. Gantenbein, of Pasco, well known in these parts, had a severe
hemorrhage from the lungs one day last week. Dr. Hewitson was telephoned
for and the last reports were to the effect that he was getting along favorably.
Chris Schiever came over from Odessa, Washington, and looked over por-
tions of Horse Heaven. He will return in a couple of weeks with quite a party
of friends, and expects to purchase several sections of land.
Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Pallister, father and mother of Dr. William Pallister
and Miss Edna Pallister of this place, arrived from Canada yesterday and will
remain for some time. The doctor went to Spokane Wednesday evening to
meet them.
B. A. Walker, from Walla Walla, representing the Long Distance Tele-
phone, was here Tuesday. He installed the phone with the Columbia Land
Company. W. A. Flower of the Kennewick Hotel, who has had charge of it,
found it inconvenient to attend to the duties, and had asked to be relieved.
Mrs. William Keefer went to Spokane Friday, returning Monday.
C. B. Work and his mother, Mrs. Phoebe Work, who have been spending
some time improving their homestead in Horse Heaven, returned to Sand Point,
Idaho, where they will remain for some time attending to their property up
there. They expect to return to this place in the near future and remain per-
manently.
G. E. Hanson, the hustling real estate man, who Hke Miles Standish of old,
is small in stature, but mighty in every undertaking, has been taking in the
country on horseback the last few days. Not being accustomed to this uKidc of
travel he complains of being badly "stove up." It is whispered that he takes his
rations standing up.
H. Schimke went to North Yakima last week, but returned Saturdav. He
was working at his trade up there, that of a stone mason. He is sufferin.;
from eczema which has attacked his right hand. Mr. Schimke has made ar-
rangements to rent his restaurant to a Jap from North Yakima, who is expected
to take charge of same on the first of May.
The local committee of Presbyterians in Kennewick have decided to recom-
mend to the missionary committee of the Presbytery of Central Washington,
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 857
the erection of a tabernacle for social purposes. It will be located on a lot
next to the City Market and thus be centrally situated. The Rev. J. M. Thomp-
son, chairman of the Presbytery's committee, will be in Kennewick to preach
Sunday, May 10th, when all details will be settled and the church probably
organized.
Fire broke out in the Northern Pacific pumping station, situated at the
north end of the railroad bridge across the Columbia, Saturday morning about
9 a. m. The fire started on the roof alongside the smokestack, and was prob-
ably due to flying sparks. The house burned down and the engine was badly
damaged. A new engine was promptly installed and the pumps are working
as usual. The pumping station supplies the roundhouse, railroad station and
water tanks at Pasco with water.
The handkerchief sale, conducted by the Ladies' Aid Society Friday eve-
ning, was a success. The amount taken in from the sale of handkerchiefs was
$5.20. Refreshments were also served which raised the proceeds $4.80. The
feature of the evening which attracted the greatest attention and swelled the
total receipts to about $30.00 was the voting for the most popular young lady
in town. The price of a vote was twenty-five cents, and the lady receiving the
highest number secured a beautiful oil painting. Miss Myrtle Seals captured
the prize.
F. K. Spaulding, of Sunnyside, representing the Oregon Nursery Com-
pany, spent Tuesday at Kennewick. He has sold a great many trees in this
.vicinity which he has already delivered and which are being set out.
Our druggist, H. R. Hayes, has with commendable enterprise sown to
white clover a strip of ground between the sidewalk and the ditch in front of
his store. When not otherwise employed he is engaged in sprinkling the sur-
face of the seeded ground with a tin can, the bottom of which is bored full
of holes. He has already put up a sign upon the plot, "Keep ofl: the Grass,"
and in his imagination he is conjuring up sanguinary conflicts with the luckless
person who, when the grass is up, should dare to desecrate the spot by treading
upon it with vulgar feet. Every now and then he is digging up some portion of
it to see if the seeds have sprouted. It is to be hoped that he will keep up the
sprinkling and discontinue the digging and w'e will assure him that in a few
weeks his fondest hopes will be realized.
Northern Pacific Detective J. S. Hindman, of Spokane, accompanied by
Sherifif Pack, of Franklin County, arrived here Tuesday night with four men
who are charged with having stolen a quantity of goods from a box-car in
west-bound Freight No. 53, Tuesday morning. The four men are believed to
have boarded the train at Pasco and to have left it again while ascending the
long grade this way from Kennewick. The capture was made by Deputy
Sheriff Nave, of Walla Walla County, who was waiting for them at that point.
Without assistance the Walla Walla officer arrested the quartet and cowed them
into submission when the men showed a disposition to resist. The alleged crime
having been committed in this county, the prisoners will be tried here. Photo-
graphs were taken of the men Friday morning. The prisoners gave their
names as George Roberts, James Moran, Joseph Dodd and Thomas Winters.
Roberts especially bears a hard reputation, having but recently been in the toils
858 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
in Oregon. Dodd is a mere boy in appearance, probably not over seventeen
years of age. When captured the men were each carrying a pack made up
principally of different varieties of shoes. — Herald.
TO ALFALFA GROWERS
Two forty acre tracts, four miles from Kennewick, to be seeded to alfalfa.
An experienced man can secure contract for this work, to include irrigat-
ing, by applying at once to the owner.
A. L. Mf.nhinick, 411 South M Street, Tacoma, Wash.
There came into my enclosure about April 18, 1903, one bay mare, age about
12, weight 1,200 pounds, branded 1 A on left shoulder. (Right side of A has
right slant). L^'nless owner appears and proves ownership and pays charges
within thirty days, said estray will be sold according to law.
Fred Creswell. Kennewick, Wash.
April 28, 1903.
$ STRAWBERRY
I have about 5,000 plants of the "Dollar Strawberry" (ever bearing) which
I will dispose of. Call on me and get prices. — J. Sercombe.
WASHINGTON LODGING HOL'SE
(Over Scott & Company's Clothing Store.) O. O. Noben, Proprietor.
Handles the "Spokesman-Review," the "Seattle Times" and "Bovce's
Weekly," the standard illustrated union labor paper of Chicago. Subscribe
for your weekly paper through me. Office in the restaurant in adjoining
building.
EXCHANGE BANK
Anion & McConnell, Bankers.
Conducts a regular banking business. Officers : S. H. Anion, president ;
John Sherman, vice president ; Charles B. McConnell, cashier.
rUST OPENED
A splendid line of Spring and Summer Millinery, including velvets, silks,
satins, veilings, ribbons and trimmings. Spring hats and bonnets of the latest
st\les. Call and examine the stock and get prices.
Mrs. Ross R. Haynes.
We have received this week two cars of Timothy Hay. We are selling
HISTORY OF YAKOIA VALLEY 859
potatoes at 25 cents per sack. Dry onions, 50 cents per sack. Coffin Bros.
New Store.
THE MERCHANT
Hawkins & Wilkie, Proprietors. ^
New Place, New Stock. Everything New. Fine Whiskeys and Cigars.
Best Spokane Beer. Second Street, Kennewick.
YOU WILL SAVE TIME AND MONEY
By buying your clothing and furnishings at Home. We sell everything in our
line as cheap as they are sold anywhere else, and save you the time and expense
of a trip. Our Summer goods will be in soon. Wait for them. Call and look
over our line. If vou don't see what you want, ask for it. Scott & Co.
C. F. BREITHAUPT & CO.
Real Estate. Kennewick irrigated lands and Horse Heaven wheat lands
a specialty. Insurance, Notary Public, Rentals. Office: Rear room of Ex-
change Bank Building, Kennewick, W^ashington.
In the number of May 15th is an account of a very pleasant event in the
life of one who is worthy of a large place in any history of Kennewick, "Dad"
Owens, or "Old Man" Owens, as he was affectionately styled by his neighbors.
D. W. Owens was one of the most marked characters in the locality. He
accumulated a collection of curios, mainly Indian, unequalled in central Wash-
ington. His intelligence and kindly nature made him an object of interest
and affection to all the people.
"For some time a number of ladies had been quietly at work arranging
to surprise D. W. Owens. Thursday evening everything was in readiness and
several teams loaded with people left town for his place. On arriving, A. H.
Johnson acted the spokesman, called Mr. Owens to the door, introducing him-
self as Mr. Perkins, and asked permission to stop over night. This being
granted he brought the rest up and introduced them as his family. Mr. Owens
undoubtedly felt that he had run up against a Later-Day-Saint who lived up to
the doctrine of plurality of wives and large families. Rufus Fullerton and L.
C. Rudow posed as the two oldest boys. After the introduction and Mr. Owens
having recovered from his surprise the crowd was invited in and the ladies
took possession of the house. Ross R. Haynes had a magnificent phonograph
with which he entertained the party. L. A. Rudow and Burdette Haynes
rendered selections on the banjo and mandolin. Later on the ladies sen-ed
light refreshments.
"The affair was highly enjoyable and all had a good lime. Dad Owens
was brimming over with pithy remarks and characteristic jokes.
860 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
"As the evening- breeze was fanning the surroundings somewhat rudely,
the ladies suggested that the party be named the Sandblown Club, as they had,
like the sand, drifted in unannounced.
"Those present were: Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Hobday, ^Ir. and I\Irs. L. C.
Rudow, Mr. and INIrs. Rufus P'ullerton, ]\Ir. and Mrs. A. Johnson. Air. and
Mrs. Cyuis Hoadley, Air. and Mrs. H. B. Haney, Air. and Airs. J. Sercombe,
Air. and Airs. Ross R. Haynes. Air. and Airs. J. W. Armstrong, Air. and Airs.
R. Gorsuch, Air. and Airs. J- B. Clements, Aliss Nellie Hoadley, Air. Burnette
Haynes, E. Gunning, L. A. Rudow, Dayton A. Hunt, A. W. Fellows, C. O.
Anderson."
CITY GOVERNMENT IN KENNEWICK
The gratifying growth of the town under the new regime of irrigation led
to a desire for a municipal organization. The agitation continuing through
1903 culminated in a petition which effected its aim. In the "Courier" of
December 18, 1903, we find this petition:
"petition for incorpor.\tion
"In the matter of the Incorporation of the Town of Kennewick, County
of Yakima, State of Washington.
"To the Honorable, the Board of County Commissioners, County of Yakima
and State of Washington :
"Your petitioners respectfully show that they and each of them are quali-
fied electors in the county of Yakima and state of Washington, and that they
desire that the following described territory or portion of said county and
state be formed into and become an incorporated tow-n, to be named and known
as the 'Town of Kennewick' and particularly bounded and described as follows,
to-wit :
"All lands, parts or parcels of land or territory included within a line com-
mencing at the southeast comer of the northeast quarter of section No. one (1),
township No. eight (8) north, range No. twenty-nine (29), East \A'illamette
Aleridian, Yakima County, Washington, the initial point, thence running north
on the east line of said section No. one { 1 ) to a point intersecting with the
south line of the right of way of the Northern Pacific Railway Company : thence
running east along said right of way of said railway company for a distance
of foii:y (40) feet: thence running due north for a distance of two hundred
twelve (212) feet, thence running east to a point for a distance of one hundred
forty-five (145) feet; thence running north to a point intersecting with the
township line between tow-nships No. eight (8) and nine (9) north, range No.
thirty (30), thence running west along said tnwiishi]i line to .the southeast
corner of section No. thirty-six (36), township No. nine (9) north, range No.
twenty-nine (29), East Willamette Aleridian, thence running north on said
east line of said section No. thirty-six (36) to a point in mid-channel of the
Columbia River, thence running 'up the Columbia River in a northwesterly
direction to a point intersecting with the west line of said section No. thirty-
six (36), township No. nine (9), range No. twenty-nine (29), thence running
along said west line of said section No. thirty-six (36) to a point in the center
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY . 861
of the Xorthern Pacific Irrigation Company's canal or irrigation ditch, thence
running down said canal or ditch in a southeasterly direction, following the
center thereof, to a point intersecting the east line of section No. one (1),
township Xo. eight (8), range No. twenty-nine (29j, thence running north
along said east line of said section No. one (1) to the point of beginning.
"Your petitioners further show that they and each of them are actual resi-
dents of and reside within the limits of the above described territory or portion
of said county and state, and further show that there reside within the limits of
said described territory or portion of said county proposed to be incorporated,
three hundred and forty (340) people or inhabitants, and that said territory is
not now incorporated as a municipal corporation.
"Wherefore, your petitioners pray that the above described territory or
portion of said county and state aforesaid may be incorporated as a municipal
corp9ration, to be named and known as the town of Kennewick, under the pro-
visions of Chapter 7 of Pierce's Washington Code, entitled 'An act providing
for the organization, classification, incorporation and government of municipal
corporations,' approved March 27, 1890. and amendments thereto.
"Dated at Kennewick, Washington, December 17, 1903.
"Daniel Boyd, W. Keefer, W. Giezentanner. Alonzo Hunt, H. A. Hover,
G. E. Hanson, John Sherman, Thomas Cosgrove, A. W. Fellows, L. J. Prior,
Rufus Fullerton, A. H. Johnson, L. C. Rudow, O. L. Hanson, M. P. Fuller, J.
N. Scott, E. M. Angell, J. F. Shafer, A. F. Brown, F. E. Kitsman, August
Wilkie, J. W. Weger, D. P. Tribe, C. O. Piles, WilHam Stiegler, W. A. Morain,
W. A. Flower, T. McKain, L. H. Brookius, L. G. Moore, W. F. Sims, H. E.
Baldwin, J. F, Pierce, W. W. Swan, C. A. Lundy, N. R. Sylvester, G. E. Rose-
man, J. B. Rees, A. V. McReynolds, L. B. Hoagland, C. M. Lloyd, C. F. Breit-
haupt, O. Olson, M. H. Schweikert, Howard S. Amon, Georg£ E. Finley, J. S.
Outler, W. F. Sonderman, Frank Drew, Martinis O. Kutten, E. G. Welsh, L.
H. Peckenpaugh, J. R. Quigley, D. B. Pettijohn, Ross R. Haynes, L. S. Erley,
Ray Fox, T. S. Cantrill, James Crowell, Hensen Johnson."
"notice t
"TO ALL WHOM IT MAY CONCERN :
"Notice is hereby given that the foregoing petition praying for the incor-
poration of the territory therein particularly described into a municipal cor-
poration, will be presented for a hearing thereon, to the Board of County Com-
missioners of Yakima County, state of Washington, at the regular January
meeting of said board, to be held in the courthouse at North Yakima, said county
and state, on the 4th day of January, A. D., 1904, at the hour of ten o'clock in
the forenoon of said day, or as soon therafter as the same can be heard on said
day or at any adjourned meeting thereof.
"Dated at Kennewick, Washington, this 17th day of December, 1903.
"W. A. ]\Iorain, Thomas Cosgrove, Daniel Boyd, S. H. Amon, G. E. Han-
The issue of February 5, 1904, furnishes the results of the first election,
and also makes editorial comment upon it.
862 HISTORY OF YAKIAIA VALLEY
"The election at Kennewick was interesting, saying the least, not only to the
candidates, but to the voters as well. The regular ticket was opposed by H. A.
Hover for the mayorship, and L. G. Moore for councilman, both running inde-
pendent. Hover worked with his characteristic energy and his opponents re-
sisted with bulldog tenacity. Greek met Greek. The total vote cast was 61.
Of these 53 were in favor of incorporation and 3 against. Five voters seemed
to have been so carried away by factional warfare that they forgot the issue of
incorporation entirely.
"The vote when counted stood as follows : For mayor, O. L. Hanson, 32 ;
H. A. Hover, 29. For councilmen, T. S. Cantrill, 54: Rufus Fullertoii, 50: L. C.
Rudow, 37; H. S. Anion, 2,7; L. G. Moore, 36; Daniel Boyd, 34. For treasurer,
Alonzo J. Hunt, 2)7. For incorporation, 53; against incorporation, 3.
"The officers for the ensuing year are : O. L. Hanson, mayor ; T. S. Cant-
rill, Rufus Fullerton, L. C. Rudow, H. S. Amon and L. G. Moore, councilmen;
Alonzo |. Hunt, treasurer."
"Election is over. The incorporation issue passed with a handsome ma-
jority, only three votes were cast against it. The election returns are filed and
canvassed by the proper authorities and the necessary documents required by
law have been drafted, certified and filed in the proper offices. The officers
elected to serve the municipality can now at any time, meet, qualify, organize
and begin their arduous task of forming a town government. In this they will
find that they have no easy task. Every step is prescribed by law and every
step must be complied with in the manner prescribed. One single loop-hole will
often overturn the whole thing. Ordinances must be drafted and passed legally.
This fundamental work is most important as, when once done, and done cor-
rectly, it will be permanent and the machinery of government move on without
interruption as years roll on, excepting the transaction of business which comes
up from time to time, and the drafting of an occasional ordinance to meet the
exigencies of the case. The position of the present officers is by no means an
enviable one. The tasks they have before them are not light by any means,
which they will find before many months, and when once completed they will
look back over their work in astonishment to think that so much was really re-
quired."'
In the next number of the "Courier" we find the first ordinances of the
Council :
ORDINANCE NO. I.
An ordinance fixing the time for holding the council meetings.
BE IT ORDAINED BY THE COUNCIL OF THE TOWN OF KENNE-
WICK:
Section 1. The council of the town of Kennewick shall hold a regular
meeting for the transaction of ])usiness on the first Tuesday in each month, at
the Town Hall, hereby established at the office known as the rear office of the
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 865
Bank Building in the town of Kennewick ; provided, that whenever such day
falls on a legal holiday, the regular meeting shall be held on the following
Wednesday, at the same hour.
Sec. 2. The hour of meeting shall be 7 :30 o'clock p. m.
Sec. 3. This ordinance shall be in force and effect from and after its
passage, approval and publication in the "Columbia Courier," a newspaper of
general circulation, and printed and published in the town of Kennewick.
Passed by the council February 9, A. D. 1904.
Approved February 9, A. D. 1904.
Attest : L. G. Moore, clerk, pro tern. O. L. Hanson, mayor.
ORDINANCE NO. II.
An ordinance designating an official paper for the town of Kennewick.
BE IT ORDAINED BY THE COUNCIL OF THE TOWN OF KENNE-
WICK :
Section 1. That the "Columbia Courier," a weekly newspaper of general
circulation, printed and published within the corporate limits of the town of
Kennewick, be and is hereby selected, designated and made the official paper
of said town.
Sec. 2. All ordinances, resolutions, notices or other official or legal matter
required by law to be published shall be published in the "Columbia Courier."
, Sec. 3. This ordinance to be in efifect and force from and after its passage,
approval and publication in the "Columbia Courier," a newspaper printed and
published in Kennewick.
Passed by the council February 9, 1904.
Approved February 9, 1904.
Attest: L. G. Moore, clerk, pro. tern. O. L. Hanson, mayor.
ORDINANCE NO. III.
An ordinance creating the office of Town Attorney and providing for his
appointment, prescribing the tenure of office and defining his duties.
BE IT ORDAINED BY THE COUNCIL OF THE TOWN OF KENNE-
WICK :
Section 1. The office of Town Attorney is hereby created and established.
Sec. 2. The town attorney shall be appointed by the mayor, subject to
the confirmation by the town council in the manner prescribed in Chapter 113
of the Session Laws of 1903 of the state of Washington.
Sec. 3. The town attorney, when appointed under the provisions of this
ordinance, shall hold office during the pleasure of the mayor, who may remove
such attorney at any time and appoint his successor. In case of removal, notice
in writing shall be served upon said attorney, and a copy of said notice together
with a statement of the fact of removal, signed by the mayor, shall be filed with
the town clerk forthwith. In case of a vacancy at any time in the office of town
attorney, or removal, as herein provided, it shall be the duty of the mayor, at
864 HISTORY OF YAKBIA VALLEY
or before the next regular meeting of the council, to appoint some competent
attorney to fill such vacancy, which appointment shall be subject to confirma-
tion as herein provided and shall file written notice of such appointment with
the clerk.
Sec. 4. It shall be the duty of the town attorney to advise the town
authorities and officers in all legal matters pertaining to the business of the
town, to draft any and all ordinances at the request of the council, or the
orilinance committee, and to prosecute or defend, in behalf of said town, any
suit for or against the town. It shall be his duty to prosecute all criminal
actions for the violation of any town ordinance before the police justice or
any magistrate before whom said action may be legally brought, and to do and
perform any and all other services wherein the sen'ices or advice of an attorney
is required pertaining to the town's business.
Sec. 5. The town attorney shall receive such compensation for his ser-
vices as shall be fixed or allowed by the council.
Sec. 6. Before entering upon the duties of his office, the town attorney
shall execute and file with the town clerk the constitutional oath of office "as
required by law.
Sec. 7. This ordinance shall take eft'ect and be in force from and after
its passage, approval and publication in the "Columbia Courier," the official
paper of the town.
Passed the council February 9th. 1904. Approved Februarv 9th, 1904.
Attest: L. G. Moore, clerk, pro. tem. O. L. Hanson, Alavor.
( )RD1XAXCE XO. I\'
An C)rdinance designating and adopting a Town Seal.
BE IT ORDAIXED BY THE COUXCIL OF THE TOWN OF KENNE-
WICK:
Section 1. That a seal making an impression as follows: In the center
thereof in appropriate style, the word "Seal" and the cut or picture of a straw-
berry, and around the outer edge thereof the words "The Town of Kennewick.
State of Washington," shall be and is hereby declared, designated and adopted
to be the seal of the town of Kennewick.
Sec. 2. The seal of the town shall be kept by the town clerk and be by
him affixed to all acts requiring to be so authenticated.
Sec. 3. This ordinance to be in eft'ect and full force from and after its
passage and publication in the "Columbia Courier," the official paper of the
town.
Passed the council February 9, 1904.
Approved February 9, 1904.
Attest: L. G. Moore, clerk, pro tem. O. L. Hanson, mayor.
( )KU1X.\XCE X( ). \'.
An ordinance providing for the giving of official bonds by certain officers
of the town of Kennewick.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 865
BE IT ORDAINED BY THE COUNCIL OF THE TOWN OF KENNE-
WICK:
Section 1. That every officer of the town of Kennevvick named in this
section shall, before entering upon the duties of his office, give a good and suffi-
cient bond, in the sum hereinafter designated, and conditioned for the faithful
performance of his duty, and that he will pay over all moneys belonging to the
town of Kennewick as provided by law. All respective bonds given by each
officer shall be in the sum following, to-wit:
Treasurer, one thousand ($1,000.00) dollars.
Clerk, five hundred ($500.00) dollars
Marshal, five hundred ($500.00) dollars.
Sec. 2. That the bonds provided for in Section one (1) hereof, shall be
furnished by reputable and responsible surety and guaranty company, authorized
to transact business under the laws of this state, who shall guarantee the pro-
visions and conditions of said bond or bonds.
Sec. 3. If any person elected or appointed to any office shall neglect or
refuse to give a bond as herein required, within ten days after his election or
appointment to such office, his office shall be deemed vacant.
Sec. 4. The bond herein provided for shall be approved by the council
and filed with the clerk, except the bond of the clerk which shall be approved by
the council and filed with the mayor.
Sec. 5. This ordinance to be in force and effect from and after its passage
and publication in the "Columbia Courier," the official paper of the town.
Passed by the council Februarj- 9, 1904.
Approved February 9, 1904.
Attest : L. G. Moore, clerk pro tem. O. L. Hanson, mayor.
ORDIXAXCE XO. \T.
An ordinance to license the sale or disposal of spirituous, fermented, malt
or other intoxicating liquors in the town of Kennewick.
BE IT ORDAINED BY THE COUNCIL OF THE TOWN OF KENNE-
WICK:
Section 1. That no person or firm, or agent thereof, shall sell or dispose
of spirituous, fermented, malt or other intoxicating liquors in the town of Kenne-
wick without first having obtained a license therefor.
Sec. 2. The license for the sale or disposal of spirituous, fermented, malt
or other intoxicating liquors within the town of Kennewick is hereby fixed at
the sum of five hundred ($500.00) dollars per annum.
Sec. 3. Any person or firm desiring to obtain a license to sell or dispose
of spirituous, fermented, malt or other intoxicating liquors in the town of Kenne-
wick, shall make application therefor in writing to the town council, which
application shall particularly describe the lot and block where said business of
the applicant shall be conducted, together with the name of the owner of the
said premises ; and if such applicant is not the owner of said premises, then
the application must be accompanied by the consent of the owner in writing
(55)
866 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
to use such premises for such purposes. The council shall consider the appli-
cation for license, and, if in the judgment of the council, the application is in
due form and according to the provisions of this section, and the applicant is
a suitable and fit person to whom to grant a license, the town council shall
thereupon order entered upon the journal an order to the effect that a license
issue to such applicant in the manner hereinafter provided, subject to the terms
and conditions of this section.
Sec. 4. After such order is made, no license shall issue in any case until
the applicant has paid into the town treasury the sum of $500.00, and entered
into a bond in the penal sum of $L000.00, with sureties to be approved by the
mayor, such bond to be conditioned that the applicant shall keep an orderly
house and will not sell liquors to minors, and as by law required.
Sec. 5. Upon filing with the clerk of such bond, with the mayor's approval
endorsed thereon, and the receipt or certificate of the treasurer showing that
the license fee of $500 has been paid, it shall be the duty of the town clerk to
issue and deliver to said applicant a license for the period of one year from the
date thereof, signed by the mayor and duly attested by the clerk, with the town
seal affixed thereto.
Sec. 6. The council may at any time, upon notice to any person licensed to
sell spirituous, fermented, malt or other intoxicating liquors, revoke such license
for good and sufficient cause shown, and such revocation shall be entered upon
the journal and thereafter such license shall be void.
Sec. 7. Any person violating any of the provisions of this ordinance shall
be deemed guilty of a misdemeanor, and upon conviction thereof, be fined in
any sum not exceeding one hundred dollars, and in default of such fine, shall
be imprisoned at the rate of three dollars per day until such fine is discharged.
Sec. 8. This ordinance shall be in force and effect from and after its
passage and publication in the "Columbia Courier," the official paper of the
town.
Passed the council February 9, 1904. Approved February 9, 1904.
Attest: L. G. Moore, clerk pro tem. O. L. Hanson, mayor.
In the "Courier" of December 9th, we find the following editorial com-
ment on the second election :
"The city election Tuesday passed oil quietly, there being but one ticket in
the field and the city is to be congratulated on the new city government. The
ticket that yesterday received the unanimous support of our citizens was fnim
top to bottom composed of the very best men in the city and there is not one
of them who would not sacrifice considerable personal interests to promote the
welfare of the city as a whole. They are all intelligent, energetic men who are
imbued with the true western spirit, and are willing to devote their best effort
to the upbuilding of Kennewick and surrounding district. For the next year,
at least, we are in safe hands. The new officials are as follows : Mayor, Ed-
ward Sheppard; councilmen, H. A. Bier, O. L. Hanson, L. G. Moore, A. H.
Johnson, R. Gorsuch ; treasurer, A. F. Brown."
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 867
Such was the initiation of city government. From the city clerk of this
date we derive a hst of mayors and clerks to the present. We include this here,
together with some data on city ownership of utilities :
List of mayors and clerks from beginning to the present time :
Mayors : O. L. Hanson, Edward Sheppard, L. E. Johnson, A. H. Richards,
S. M. Lockerby, E. L. Kolb, George F. Richardson, L. E. Johnson, George W.
Sherk. Clerks, L. G. Moore (pro tern), G. E. Hanson, \V. J. Shaughnessy, R. A.
Klinge, F. F. Dean, C. O. Anderson. G. N. Calhoun, T. J. Wright, D. L. Taylor,
M. E. Soth.
Present city officers : Mayor, George W. Sherk ; clerk, M. E. Soth ; attor-
ney, F. R. Jeffrey ; treasurer, George R. Bradshaw ; councihnen, G. G. Haydon,
F. F. Beste, George Egbert, R. Gilcrcst, George E. Tweedt, D. S. Brogunier,
Charley Haas.
The city installed a sewer system covering almost the entire city in 1912-13.
There are cement sidewalks on most of the streets and part of them are oiled
macadam. The city also has an underground irrigation system in the principal
residence section. There is a municipal water system from the Columbia River.
In looking over the old time data of land enterprises, one among many is
discovered from an issue of the Nlorthwest Magazine of that period which calls
to remembrance one of the most active and highly respected of all the early pro-
moters of Kennewick, Dr. Adriel B. Ely. He, with his brilliant and estimable
wife, were central figures in many of the social and literary, as well as business
undertakings of the early days. These land advertisements cast light on the
conditions in which the new Kennewick originated.
DESIRABLE LANDS IN THE LOWER YAKIJIA AND KENNEWICK VALLEYS, WASH.
The lower Yakima and Kennewick valleys offer lands with more ad-
vantages, at a lower price, with the greatest increase in value, and by far the
safest guarantee for investment in the United States. Nature having lavished
her gifts here so as to insure success, crops follow with no chance of failure.
Expend the same time and money here that you do trying to grow a crop east
of the Rockies, where drouth and floods, wind and cyclones, hail and snow, bug
and rust give battle, and you will reap abundant harvest. Irrigation gives rain
when needed, and without devastating storms.
We can clear our land of sagebrush at from one to two and one-half dol-
lars per acre. We grow fruit here when it is too cold at higher elevations —
it is here 330 feet. .Apricots yield jier acre S210 net to $1,200 net. Peaches
per acre yield over $1,200 net, profits depending upon age of trees: yellow-egg
plums, French prunes, pears, grapes, etc., in proportion. Mr. W. J. Bauer,
of Kiona, Washington, states :
"I came here from California and purchased my land of the Yakima Irri-
gating and Improvement Company three years ago, for which I paid $35 per
acre, including water right. Strawberries ripened the 18th of May, 1893, and
the season was two w-eeks late at that. I found ready sale for them at $1 ]ier
gallon and could have sold many more than I raised, at same price. I had
868 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
orders from North Yakima that I could not fill, as their strawberries did not
ripen until June. My raspberries ripened in May and the cherries the last of
May. We had ripe peaches on the trees the 12th of July, 1893, also apricots,
and we shall see the last of the peaches in September. Received $53 for the
melons from about one-half acre last year — and this in my orchard. The early
melons sold for forty cents apiece because I picked them over two weeks before
any ripened, at North Yakima or Ellensburg. I picked the first ripe melon of
the season today, July 27. My alfalfa in 1892 cut about eight tons per acre, and
sold at $12.50 per ton in the stack. We can cut five crops per year, while up
in the Yakima Valley, about 100 miles nearer the Cascade Mountains — near
North Yakima — they only cut four crops. This year the yield is heavier than
last, and I am getting more than two tons per acre per cutting. Vegetables of
all kinds grow in abundance. I raised a watermelon weighing fifty-five pounds.
Am having good success in raising hogs on alfalfa and am not feeding them
any grain. Can pasture here from March to the last of December. Shall be
pleased to correspond with any one wishing to settle in W'ashington."
To appreciate the value of these lands one ought to examine them, for it
will seem strange to one not posted that thousands of acres may be bought at
$25 to $50 per acre in the same county, with just the same kind of land and
soil as those farms selling at $200 to $800 per acre. The following lands that
I offer for sale are such lands as can be made to produce the same profits as
the most valuable land in the state :
1. Fine apricot land, within one and one-half miles of Northern Pacific
Railroad station, in ten-acre tracts, or an eighty-acre farm at a bargain. This
land is all under the irrigating canal.
2. For sale near Kennewick, on the Columbia and within three miles of
railroad station, 160 acres fine prune land ; will sell in small tracts if desired.
Price $35 per acre — all level land and under canal : five-year contract.
3. As fine hop land as there is on the Yakima River ; price $25 per acre.
Terms, one-fifth down, one-fifth after t\vo years, and one-fifth each year there-
after for three years.
4. One hundred and sixty acres of land within a few miles of Northern Pa-
cific Railroad station, $50 per acre, with water right. Will sell any part of the
same or several hundred acres of the Yakima Irrigating and Improvement Com-
pany's land.
5. Six hundred and forty acres of excellent hop. alfalfa, corn and i)Otato
land, second to none in the northwest, and for small fruit farm the most de-
sirable in the county ; price $50 per acre, with water right. This is within easy
drive of railroad station; the Yakima Irrigating and Impro\'ement Company's
land ; terms, five-year contract.
6. Extra peach land about eight nfiles from railroad station on the river;
the railroad may be reached by water. Any part of 320 acres at $25 per acre;
five years' time ; one-fifth cash.
ADRIEL B. ELY.
General Land Agent. Yakima Irrigating and Improvement Company. Kenne-
wick, Washington.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 869
Some extracts from the "Courier" of November 4, 1904, will give still
further light upon the people and the ongoings of that date.
"Mr. Webster's new residence in the south part of town is nearing com-
pletion, and will be one of the finest in the city.
"Mr. Perry is erecting a nice residence on his five-acre tract near the river
which will be ready for occupancy in a week or so.
"Art linen. Butcher's linen, handkerchief linen, Art scrim embroidery,
huckabuck and wash embroidery silks at Fred B. Kreidler's.
"The new residence that Mr. Beach is erecting in his addition is now in the
hands of the painters and when finished will be a credit to the city.
"The Republican meeting in the opera house last night was attended by a
fair-sized audience. The speakers were given a close hearing and received a
hearty applause when they made points that appealed to their hearers.
"A crew of Government engineers are camped on 'The Horn,' west of town,
and it is supposed their work has to do with the project for irrigating the land
on the bench. They are not giving out any information, however, and the
above is only a supposition.
"If any one has an idea that we are not doing business in this city let him
go down to the depot and watch the trains unload the freight that arrives here
every da\-. Yesterday one train alone put 36,000 pounds of freight in the freight
warehouse at this place.
"The Woodmen have decided to give a Japanese tea party in the hall over
the opera house on the evening of the 8th. The election returns will be re-
ceived in the opera house during the evening and the aii'air in the hall upstairs
will furnish a handy place for getting refreshments. The hall will be decorated
in Japanese style and the young ladies serving the refreshments will be dressed
as Japanese maidens.
"The ladies of the W. C. T. L'. met at the residence of Mrs. L. A. Jarnagin
yesterday afternoon. As is usual when the ladies of Kennewick get together a
fine time was had. A literary program was rendered, consisting of readings,
recitations and interesting talks on the subjects that called the order into life
and makes it one of the grandest of the ladies' societies. Both vocal and in-
strumental music came as pleasant intervals to the more substantial numbers of
the program. Refreshments, of course, came in the proper order of things and
were relished as is to be expected when kindred spirits meet around the banquet
board.
"Dr. Clemmcr, the Spokane dentist, asks us to notify the people of this place
that he will be here immediately after the general election for the practice of
his profession.
"President Roosevelt has issued his Thanksgiving proclamation. Thurs-
day, November 24, has been set aside as a day for general thanksgiving all over
the United States.
"Another change took place in the business circles of Kennewick today,
when C. AI. Lloyd sold his livery barn to Henry Steege. Mr. Steege recently
came to this state from Crookston, Minnesota, and after visiting all the other
870 HISTORY OF YAKIMA \'ALLEY
towns in the eastern part of the state that are out with inducements for settlers,
he decided that Kennewick was the place of the most promise and has decided
to cast his lot with us. We have been personally acquainted with the gentle-
man for a number of years and can recommend him to the people of this sec-
tion as an upright, enterprising business man who will prove a valuable acquisi-
tion to our business circles. Mr. Lloyd, who was one of the pioneers of this
city, has sold the livery barn with the intention of embarking in other business.
"The finest line of rugs ever shown in this part of the country on display
at the Kennewick Hardware Company's furniture department.
"There are at the present time about a dozen families living in tents in the
various parts of the city waiting for residences to be erected for them. The
contracting firms of the city are overrun with work and the lumber yards are
working overtime to supply the demand for building material.
"The meeting at the opera house last night was attended by a fair-sized
crowd of interested listeners. Colonel Custer, the speaker, dealt with both
national and state issues from a Republican point of view, and proved to be otie
of the best speakers that has appeared before a Kennewick audience this Fall.
"We had new potatoes for dinner today and for the privilege are indebted
to Archie Spence. The potatoes are of the second crop raised by Mr. Spence
on his land this season. He informs us that he has a good crop and the potatoes
are equally as good and the yield as large on the second as on the first crop.
"By the way those golf shoes are selling at Kreidler's they must be all
right.
"Fifty styles and kinds of rockers and iron lieds at the Kennewick Hard-
ware Company. Just received two car loads of furniture, and can show you
rockers from $2 to $45.
"The ladies of the First Presbyterian church will give an at-home Thurs-
day afternoon, November 10th from 2 to 5 o'clock at the residence of Mrs. A.
H. Johnson. Bring your sewing and spend a social afternoon with us.
"Mrs. Fred B. Kreidler and family returned this week from Tacoma, where
they spent the past two months visiting with friends and relatives. The little
one that has been in ill health is greatly improved.
"We save you money on anything you buy. As our business has increased
to a great extent in made-to-measure suits we have cut out the express charges
and give you a suit or overcoat at Ed V. Price's list price. Scott & Co.
"The Ladies' Aid of the Congregational Church met at the residence of
Mrs. Frank Emigh yesterday afternoon. Subjects of interest to the church and
tlic work of the society were discussed, and of course the ladies devoted some
of the time to social visiting and topics dear to the feminine heart were con-
sidered at length.
"Next Tuesday is the day when we vote for the president of the L^nited
States and for the state and county officers. After that we will have to begin
to take up the matter of city officers. This is a matter of more importance
than most people think. If we are to keep up with the procession we must have
a progressive city government. And at the same time we want a city govern-
ment that will be conservative enough to stop short of extravagance. There will
be lunncrous improvements to be made during the coming year and the citizens
FIRST NATIONAL BANK, KKNXEWICK
KKXXEWICK HIGH SCHOOL
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 871
should see to it that those who are elected to look after the city's interests are
of the sort that will guide us safely and creditably through the period of 'their
term of office. The next year will be one of the most vital in our history. The
men who hold office here next year can either make or greatly cripple the city.
Let us all lay aside personal considerations and select men of the right stamp for
various offices. We have plenty of good material.
"Kennevvick has done fairly well this year for a district that makes no pre-
tentions at wheat raising. The Kennewick Grain Company, that has handled
all the grain shipped from this station this year, have up to date shipped out
over a hundred cars of wheat. As each car will hold something over a thousand
bushels of wheat, this makes a total of over 100,000 bushels. Mr. Crowell, the
bookkeeper of the company, informs us that he has drawn checks to date for
over $75,000 in payment for wheat bought by the company. He also informs
us that the company has contracts standing out for wheat that will keep the
farmers busy hauling for the next six weeks. This will bring the number of
bushels up near the 150,000 mark and give Kennewick the right to call herself
a wheat shipping point, along with the numerous other things that she has to
brag about."
SCHOOLS, CHURCHES AND SOCIETIES
It is commonplace to say anything further in regard to the high-class and
entirely commendable character of the institutions covered by the above titles
in any part of the Yakima Valley. Suffice it to say that Kennewick has main-
tained a place in the front row with the best of her neighbors. As noted earlier,
the first public school was organized in 1884, and the first teachers were, in suc-
cession, Mrs. Haak, Mr. T. B. Thompson, and Miss Josie Miller. The district
was twelve miles square and the school enrollment was fifty-four. A two-story
building, still standing, though unused, was erected in 1893. The present
splendid high school building was erected in 1911, and the fine grade school
building came in 1905, both nearly model buildings for their purpose. At pres-
ent date, Professor H. H. Hoil'man is city superintendent; Miss Grace Mitchel
is principal of the high school, and Miss E. R. Tripp is principal of the 'Wash-
ington school. The other teachers appear in the county directory of teachers
in the chapter on Benton County. The enrollment in the high school the year
past was 146 and in the grades was 510. The estimated value of school
property in the district was, buildings and grounds, $85,000; furniture, equip-
ment and books, $16,000.
The schools of Kennewick have been entirely under the public school sys-
tein with one notable exception, very interesting in a historical way. That ex-
ception was the Academy Emanuel, founded by Mr. and Mrs. M. O. Klitten, at
the present date residents of Kennewick, conducting the Hotel Kennewick.
An account of the opening of the academy is found in the "Courier" of
November 13, 1903.
"The work on the Academy Emanuel is moving along to completion. The
872 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
painting is about completed, both inside and outside, and plumbers are piping
the building in order to put it in readiness for the installation of a gas plant,
which will be utilized for both lighting and heating purposes. Mrs. Klitten was
in Portland last week and inspected a number of places lighted with similar
plants and the lights are excellent, and give the most satisfactory results. She
therefore purchased a plant for the academy at a cost of about $1,250. This
disposes of the lighting and heating problem of the institution in a most happy
manner. On her return she also stopped o\-er at Tacoma and purchased about
$3,000 worth of carpets, furniture and kitchen utensils for the building, and
these articles will soon arrive.
"Everything will soon be in readiness and applications from students can
now be sent in any time. Those desiring to attend should apply early and have
quarters apportioned for them, as it will facilitate matters at the opening of
the school. It is hoped that at least forty or fifty day students will be enrolled
from Kennewick and vicinity alone. School will open without fail on the 5th
dav of Januarv."
The building originally put up for a hotel by the Yakima Irrigating and
Improvement Company was purchased by Mr. Klitten, thoroughly renovated,
and adapted to school purposes. This was the building referred to in the item
in the "Courier." Much interest was taken in Kennewick in this laudable en-
terprise of the Academy Emanuel. Very unfortunately, not more than two
years after its inception, the building was burned. The academy was not con-
tinued.
As already noted, the Presbyterian, Congregational and Methodist churches
were established in Kennewick at an early day. Religious work has been well
maintained in all the usual activities to the present time.
At the date of preparation of this volume, the churches and pastors are the
following: First Methodist Episcopal, Rev. J. C. Harvey: First Baptist, Rev.
J. V. B. Adam ; Congregational, Rev. Campbell W. Bushnell : Bethlehem
Lutheran, Rev. Emil Kreidt : Zion Lutheran, without pastor; Catholic, without
pastor: Christian, without pastor.
We find the usual fraternal organizations in Kennewick. The pioneer so-
cieties seem to have been the Alodern Woodmen of America and their auxiliary,
the Royal Neighbors. At present date we find a Masonic lodge of which the
worshipful master is Charles Florine and the secretary is F. J- Kadow ; a lodge
of Odd Fellows, of which the head is Noble Grant; Knights of Pythias, of
which E. A. Farrel is chancellor commander, and George W. Tweedt is keeper
of records and seals; Order of Eastern Star, with Kathryn Cramer as worthy
matron and Emile Shanafelt secretary ; Rebekahs, of which Mrs. H. W. Xelson
is noble grand, and Mrs. G. H. Shanafelt is secretary; Woodmen of the World,
of which Earl Farrel is venerable consul and G. H. Shanafelt is clerk.
One of the most useful and interesting of all the organizations of the town
is the Kennewick Woman's Club. Such a club is usually a center of light and
leading wherever it may be, but the club of this city has seemed to be unusually
active in every good word and work. It was organized in 1913, and soon after
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 873
became federated. The present officers and heads of departments are the fol-
lowing; President, Mrs. R. I. McMahon ; first vice president, Mrs. R .E.
Pratt ; second vice president, Mrs. Thomas McKain ; corresponding secretary,
Mrs. H. P. Cranmer; recording secretary, Mrs. F. J. Arnold; treasurer, Mrs.
E. A. Knerr ; auditor, Emile Shanafelt. Heads of departments : Literature,
Mrs. E. M. Sly ; arts and crafts, Mrs. H. W. Withers ; current events, Mrs. A.
F. Brown; home economics, Mrs. W. L. Craver ; music, Mrs. C. Brunn.
The Commercial Club of the town has been an unequalled influence in
organizing and maintaining the business activities of the locality, as well as keep-
ing in touch with the major movements in commercial and political life in the
state and nation. The commercial organization dates back to the beginnings of
the third stage in the history of the town. Excerpts from the "Courier" of
August 5, 19 and 26, 1904, summarize the stages of launching the organization
known as the Kennewick Commercial Association.
"Kennewick has now arrived at that stage in its career when it is necessary
for its citizens to take some united action for its permanent welfare. Like all
new western towns that have great inducements to offer to the prospective
settler, Kennewick has had a remarkable growth, and has settled up on a
haphazard method that took small notice of the finer details that are taken into
consideration when men settle down to the building up of a town that is in-
tended to be their permanent home. In all new western towns there is a cer-
tain element of chance and speculation during the first few years that makes the
settlers negligent of the more substantial improvements that must necessarily
come if the town is a success. There is now not the least doubt in the minds
of any one as to the success of Kennewick and we should get to work moulding
the place into the semblance of what its permanent aspect should be. The best
and only proper method of doing this is to organize the business men and citizens
into a club and give them power to do all they think best for the welfare of the
city, and we suggest that steps be taken in this direction without delay. There
is going to be a large influx of strangers here this fall and we should look our
best when they arrive. We have a town that has all the advantages they will
be looking for and we should see that nothing is left undone that will leave a
correct impression of what it has to ofifer in the way of a home and a business
point. The city council can not be asked to take all this work upon itself. The
members of the council have enough to do to attend to the regular business of
the city, and while they are doing a good work within the sphere of their duty,
we .'ihould all take up the extra work and expense involved in putting the city
in its best appearance."
"The topic that has the lead among our business men this week is the Com-
mercial Club, and it is being threshed out in proper shape. The only thing that
makes it approach being a dry subject is that there is very little chance for argu-
ment as every one is of the opinion that it is the thing that we want. The only
points on which an argument can be founded are mere matters of detail and
they are so unimportant that they will in no way affect the general purposes of
the organization. We have discussed the project with every business man in the
874 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
city and not one has said anything but the most encouraging words about it,
and we beheve the meeting next Monday evening will be attended by every citizen
who has the best interest of the citv and district at heart."
"A large number of our business men met in the opera house last Monday
evening and took further steps toward the organization of the Commercial
Association. The committees on by-laws and finance reported and the reports
were accepted. The name adopted is 'The Kennewick Commercial Association.'
The constitution and by-laws adopted are the same as govern the North Yakima
Commercial Club, with a few changes made necessary by the difference in the
conditoins prevailing in the two towns. The temporary organization that was
perfected at the previous meeting was allowed to stand for the present and the
first election of permanent officers will take place on the second Tuesday in
September. The roll of members is open at the secretary's office and several
of our business men who were not able to attend the meeting have called around
and signed. We hope all will become members before the election of officers
so that those who are elected will represent the entire town.
"The first thing the Commercial Association will have to tackle is the caring
for the Knights Tenjplar delegation that is to visit the city on the 30th of this
month. Word was received a few days ago that a train carrying a hundred
knights would stop here on the 30th in order that the excursionists might spend
a few hours looking over the city and surrounding country. At the meeting
of the Commercial Association held last Monday evening it was decided to give
them a blow-out worthy of the city and the occasion. A committee was appointed
to make all necessary arrangements, and we understand it is the intention to
meet the train with sufficient rigs to take all the guests for a drive through the
city and out to the neighboring orchards after which a 6 o'clock dinner will be
served in the opera house. This is a good opportunity to place the city in a
favorable light before a lot of influential gentlemen and we hope all our citizens
will take hold and see that the affair is a success."
The name became changed to the Commercial Club within a short time.
Throughout its history this club has been active in promoting all the larger
enterprises of the community. Among these may be mentioned the regular
publication of attractive and reliable booklets for distribution, a collection in-
deed remarkable for a town of the size of Kennewick. This literature, with the
equally remarkable series of publications issued by the Northern Pacific Irriga-
tion Company, has doubtless made Kennewick the best advertised small city in
central Washington.
As a matter of historic reference our readers will be glad to see a list of
the members of the club as they were massed for a picture in 1906. The list of
members of that date follows:
KENNEWICK COMMERCr.-\L Cr.UB MEMBERS
H. C. Stringer. H. D. Sweet, K. DePriest, John Sercomb. M. H. Church,
BRIDGE BKTWKKN K K N X K W I r K A X 1 1 I'Af-
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 875
L. W. Soth, George A. Fendler, Alex Bier, A. Nevlow, J. L. McPhee, E. L.
Kolb, A. F. Brown, J. N. Scott, Professor A. E. Nelson, Thomas McKain, J-
A. Rose, Superintendent O. L. Hanson, Charles Holmes, J. Clemens, F. A.
Swingle, Dr. F. B. Crosby, G. E. Hanson, Arie Hover, Dr. J. W. Hewitson,
President George F. Richardson, Pioneer D. W. Owens, H. A. Howe, O. W.
Rich, J. E. Tull, L. A. Peters, G. A. Schlund, Guy Hayden, Don Creswell, C.
H. Collins, H. W. Desgranges, Edward Sheppard, H. A. Bier, Peter Roech, J.
M. Hawkins, A. W. Tomkins, O. C. Melvin, R. H. Anderson, G. W. King, R.
L. Whitlock, W. A. Hawes, J. H. Graveslund, G. A. Hamilton, Albert Dance,
B. F. Knapp, E. D. Collins, C. King, William Folsom, W. H. Collins, Phil Bier,
E. C. Copeland, I. H. Hamlin, M. P. Fuller, A. W. Hover, G. W. Taylor, Harry
Rosman, A. H. Wheaton, H. B. Haney.
Besides this special activity in publications the club has, beyond any other
interior town except Lewiston, Idaho, led in the movement which eventuated
in the completion of the Celilo Canal in the Columbia River and the opening of
this whole region to unobstructed navigation to the ocean, 330 miles from
Kennewick. Another great aim was the construction of a sewage system and
street paving. Yet another was the establishment of a wharf on the Columbia,
essential to the realization of the benefits of water transportation.
It should be especially noted in this connection that by vote of the people in
accordance with state law, Kennewick became a regular port district and the
dock was constructed and road connections made by the district. The river
front for several miles is in control of the district, a fact of vast importance for
the future.
The club also cooperated heartily with the irrigation company during its
regime and then became an active force in enlisting the interest of property
owners in Government irrigation, from which so much seems now on the verge
of attainment. At this time the officers of the Commercial Club are as fol-
lows: President, M. W. Mattechek ; first vice president, E. W. Trenbath ;
second vice president, E. M. Sly; secretary, George E. Tweedt; directors, G.
W. Sherk, J. J. Rudkin, F. M. Crosby, A. F. Browne, G. R. Bradshaw, A. R.
Gardner.
The most notable local event in the history of the Columbia River in recent
years was the opening of the Celilo Canal. A series of celebrations occurred
all the way from Lewiston to the ocean beach. The place that Kennewick took
in the week's festivities is narrated in the "Reporter" by Editor A. F. Gardner,
and we will leave the telling to his brilliant pen.
"Courier-Reporter," May 6, 1915:
The Columbia River, the second greatest waterway in the country, which
for untold ages marked its way through desert and cliff, "hearing no sound save
its own dashings," feeling no touch save the splashing paddle of the Indian
canoe; which, through another cycle of years, was harnessed to the use of man,
only to lapse into disuse, has this week been reclaimed and officially dedicated
to the commercial use of the people of a great empire. The Celilo Canal, the
dream of half a century and the hope of a decade, is now a fact. The waterway
is now open to continuous navigation from where it mingles its foregathered
876 HISTORY UF YAKIMA VALLEY
waters with the flood of the Pacific Ocean, to where the Clearwater joins with
the Snake at Lewiston, Idaho, a distance of 500 miles.
The brilliancy, the spontaniety, the enthusiasm of the celebration now in
progress characterizes it as the premier event of the Northwest this year. From
sunrise Monday morning, when the explosion of tons of dynamite awoke the
echoes along the Lewiston hills, until waters from a score or more of tribu-
taries went splashing into the canal yesterday afternoon, the memories of the
past have been greeting the activities of the present in a manner so spectacular
as to compel a firm faith in the possibilities of the future.
It was the greatest day Lewiston has ever known ; it was the greatest event
in the history of Kennewick and Pasco; it was epoch-making for Wallula and
the biggest night Limatilla has ever seen. The whole Columbia and Snake
River valleys are celebrating as they never celebrated before. The spirit every-
where is the same, whether manifest in the gaiety of parading thousands or
whether it has found expression in the frantic flag-waving of freckled and
tanned urchins in holiday attire at an isolated homestead.
The week has been notable too, in another particular. Never have so many
high public officials gathered together in the Northwest. Governors, United
States senators and representatives in congress have been as common and as
numerous as camera enthusiasts and souvenir vendors. All have been drawn
by the same common impulse — to commemorate the connection of the interior
country with tidewater.
A census of the dignitaries who are participating in the trip includes Gov-
ernors Alexander of Idaho, Lister of Washington, Withycombe of Oregon,
United States Senators Jones and Poindexter of Washington, Borah and Brady
of Idaho, Lane of Oregon, William H. Humphrey representative in congress
from Washington, and Rejiresentatives Sinnott. Hawley and 3.1cArthur of
r)regon. The pioneers whose names are linked with the notable historic events
of the Northwest are here, too. On board Admiral Gray's flagship is Mrs.
Nancy Osborne Jacobs, survivor of the Whitman massacre, and many others
whose residence in the old Oregon country dates back half a century.
.\T KENNEWICK .\ND P.\SCO
A perfect day and an enormous crowd greeted the "progressive" celebra-
tion at this point. The festivities opened on the Pasco side, where at eleven
o'clock the spectacular parade formed. Near the head of the column were the
cars carrying the bride and her party who were to figure in the allegorical wed-
<ling of the Columbia and the Snake later in the day. Following the bridal
party were several hundred school children and citizens' marching clubs from
both to\\ns. while interspersed throughout the length of the parade were units
symbolizing the progress of civilization as well as several attractive floats from
the Richland district.
The spectacular and symbolic features of the parade were the work of the
Kennewick parade committee and of George E. Finley, of Finley, to whom had
been given the task of working up the old settlers' feature. All of these gentle-
men deserve much praise for the manner in which they "put over" Kennewick's
HISTORY OF YAKIMA \'ALLEY 877
part of the parade. Mr. Finley, especially, is to be commended for the interest
he displayed, as he spent many days of his time and no little cash out of his own
pocket in getting his prairie schooner ready for the line of march.
At the close of the Pasco parade the crowd began to move to the Kenne-
wick waterfront where the big feature of the day, the wedding of Miss Colum-
bia and Mr. Snake was to take place upon the arrival of the flotilla from Lewis-
ton. By special trains, admirably handled by the Northern Pacific ; by gasoline
ferry and by way of the "Inland Empire" which had been impressed as a
passenger ferry for the day, the people streamed to the Kennewick side to await
the coming of the boats.
Here the delay occurred which somewhat marred the festivities and made
the carrying out of Kennewick's part of the program a difficult affair. Although
the fleet was supposed to be docked at Kennewick at noon, it was long after one
o'clock before the flagship "Undine" poked her nose through the open draw-
span to the accompaniment of tooting whistles and waving handkerchiefs and
parasols. When the "Undine" finally docked after a brief stop at the Pasco
wharf, it was found that although she carried Senator Jones, who was to tie
the allegorical wedding knot, the groom-to-be, Wallace Stanton, of Lewiston,
was not aboard. He, unhappily, had been placed upon the "J. N. Teal," a later
and slower boat, so was still some miles away at the time the wedding party
were assembled and waiting. The expectant hundreds gathered about the cere-
monial platform growing restless and after a considerable wait, it was decided
to proceed with the "wedding." F. A. Jones, of Pasco, one of the groomsmen,
needed no urging to accept the role of the groom.
Miss Kate Williams, of this city, as the bride, "Miss Columbia." was sup-
ported by four maids of honor. Miss Pearl Cunningham, Miss Olga Fylpa, Miss
Mayme Jorgensen and Miss Ruby Slaugenhaupt, and was attended by a score
of bridesmaids, representing cities and towns in all sections of the Inland Em-
pire. The men of honor were Gushing Baker of Walla Walla, and L. E.
Thomas of Prosser, with a dozen or so groomsmen from Kennewick, Pasco, and
various other towns also in attendance. Little Lucile Collins and Esther Moul-
ton were flower bearers.
The bride was given away by Admiral W. P. Gray and the ceremony was
performed by Senator Wesley L. Jones, who paraphrased the usual wedding
vows in an apt and ready manner, which aroused the big crowd to applause.
The wedding party made a pleasing spectacle, the attractive bride and her
attending young ladies in their summery gowns and the men in their holiday
attire of serges and flannels forming an interesting and pleasing tableau.
After the ceremony the crowd made a swoop down upon the barbecue
grounds, where a thousand pounds of the finest beef had been roasting over the
pits most of the night previous. Soon a half dozen sandwich makers and as
many more waiters were hustling as they had never hustled before in the effort
of trying to serve the hungry horde which crowded around them. Right here
the barbecue committee wishes to thank those who assisted in the arduous task
of preparing and serving the huge meal. It was a big job and necessarily put
much hard work on the shoulders of a few men.
By this time the U. S. S. "Asotin" had docked and she was followed by the
S78 HISTORY UF YAKIMA A'ALLEY
"J. X. Teal" on board of which were Governors Moses Alexander of Idaho and
Ernest Lister of Washington. The executives were escorted to the speakers'
stand where they, together with Assistant Attorney-General Scott Z. Hender-
son, held the attention of the audience with interesting addresses, pointing out
the importance of the great work now finished and felicitating this community
upon the advantages sure to accrue therefrom.
The "Undine" meanwhile had pulled out for the next stop of the day at
Wallula and at the finish of the speaking she was followed by the rest of the
fleet, while the crowd turned their faces townward, where the rest of the after-
noon's entertainment, consisting of a ball game, auto rides and dancing, kept
them amused until the special trains began to arrive to again transport them to
Pasco. There the big day came to a fitting close with a band concert, dancing
and a banquet to the visiting dignitaries, an outline of which program is to be
found in another column.
.\T WALLULA
If any there are who doubt Walla Walla's belief that they are to share
largely in the benefits of the Open River, those doubters should have been at
Wallula Tuesday. The scene w-hich greeted the excursion steamers will linger
long in the memory of those present. On the site of Old Fort Walla W^alla
were aligned 647 automobiles and between 4,000 and 5,000 people who had
journeyed thirty miles to join in the celebration.
With appropriate ceremonies, the first gang plank was throw-n, this being
participated in by the five survivors of Colonel Steptoe's command of United
States Dragoons. Professor W. D, Lyman, of Whitman College, one of the
most enthusiastic of the open river advocates, delivered the address of welcome
and formally opened the afternoon's celebration program.
In the absence of Governor Lister, who arrived on a later boat, the re-
sponse was delivered by Senator Wesley L. Jones. Other numbers on the pro-
gram were : "Dr. D. S. Baker, Washington's Pioneer Railroad Builder ;" Prof.
L. F. Anderson: "Life Work of Dr. N. G. Blalock," Allen H. Reynolds; Greet-
ings, by Governor Withycombe of Oregon, United States Senator Miles Poin-
dexter, of Washington, and Tames H. Bradv. of Idaho.
Before a crowd of 20.000 people the climax, though not the finish, of The
Dalles-Celilo celebration, came here Wednesday afternoon, when the eight and
one-half miles of waterway was formally presented to the public by United
States engineers, Lieut. -Col. C. H. McKinstry, Major Jay J. Morrow and staiY
and a bevy of thirty-two pretty girls who sent a shower of tributan- waters
sjiraying over the lower entrance gates. The quota of upper Columbia River
waters was mingled with that of the canal from bottles carried by Miss Elda
Clements and jMiss Josephine Kouba, representing Kennewick and Pasco, the
twin cities of the Columbia.
In point of attendance, number of distinguished guests and demonstrative
enthusiasm, Wednesday afternoon's was the big feature of the historic celebra-
tion. The ceremonies were presided over by Joseph N. Teal, of Portland, who
HISTORY OF YAKBIA VALLEY 879
has been a conspicuous figure in the Crpen River movement since its inception.
An eloquent dedicatory invocation was dehvered by Rt. Rev. Charles J.
O'Reilly, D. D., bishop of Baker City, Oregon. A patriotic and inspiring touch
was given the program by the presentation and unfurling of the canal flag by
Gen. H. S. Fargo, department commander, G. A. R., of Oregon. The hand-
some silk banner is the gift of the citizens of Lewiston, Idaho.
Letters of congratulations and of greetings were read from President Wil-
son and Senator Joseph E. Ransdell, of Louisiana, president of the National
Rivers and Harbors Congress. Senators James H. Brady, of Idaho, Miles
I'oindexter of Washington and Congressman N. J. Sinnott, of Oregon, speaking
as a specially appointed committee, voiced the formal greetings of the national
congress. Addresses, voicing the faith of the people of the three great North-
western states, were delivered by Governor James Withycombe, of Oregon,
Governor Lister, of Washington, and Governor Moses Alexander, of Idaho.
James' S. Ramage, president of the Spokane Chamber of Commerce, spoke for
the commercial bodies of the Columbia Basin.
Interesting scenes and events of other days, each playing its part or wield-
ing its influence in the development of the Northwest, were interestingly re-
called in an address by T. C. Elliott, of Walla Walla, representing the Oregon
Historical Society. Brief responses were given by Senator Wesley L. Jones
and Congressman William E. Humphrey, of Washington.
Following the dedicatory program the up-river fleet steamed out of the
lower end of the canal to be met by the lower river fleet. Thousands of people
lined the rocky shores of the rugged chasm through which the canal has been
hewn, and awakened the echoes of the distant buttes with their shouts of wel-
come as the flagship "Undine" pointed her nose out of the last locks and rocked
in the swirling waters of Big Eddy.
The Dalles that night witnessed scenes which, like the other river towns,
are writing new pages in its history. The arrival of the "Undine" was the
signal for throwing wide open every steam whistle in the city and harbor.
Crowds, finding parallel only in the Pendleton Round-LTp, thronged the streets
and dignitaries and common people alike lent their presence, their voices and
their great good fellowship in bringing to a close the third day of the celebration.
Prominent citizens and representatives of the Columbia and Snake river
towns were the guests last night of the citizens of The Dalles at an elaborate
banquet and speaking program.
Among many notable things in this rapidly improving town we find the
most unique and prospectively important of all that have not yet been described
to be the grape juice and cider enterprise of the Church Manufacturing Com-
pany. J. D. Clark is president and W. H. Hoyt vice-president of the company.
The secretary-treasurer and manager and the active ()rt;anizer of the entire
business is M. H. Church. Briefly outlined, the history of this interesting enter-
prise is this :
Early in 1908. Church & Stringer, as partners, established an ice and cold
storage plant at Kennewick under the name "Twin City Ice & Cold Storage
Company." The ice-making capacity of this plant was ten tons, besides the re-
frigeration of several cold storage rooms.
880 HISTORY OF YAKBIA VALLEY
In 1909 the company was incorporated under the name "Twin City Ice &
Cold Storage Company." The same \ear the manager erected a cold storage
j)lant in Pasco, and installed refrigerating machinery. He also erected coal
sheds and engaged in the coal business at both Pasco and Kennewick.
In 1910 the company built an addition to the Kennewick plant and installed
an equipment for manufacturing soft drinks.
In 1913 they erected additional buildings and installed machinery and ap-
paratus for the manufacture of unfermented grape juice and apple cider, and
made the first year about 20,000 gallons of grape juice and 2,000 gallons of apple
cider, which was stored in glass in refrigerated rooms.
In 1914 the company reorganized and increased its capital stock to $100,-
000.00. They have greatly increased their output each year to keep up with the
demands for their goods.
In 1915 the Church Company was awarded gold medals, which were the
highest awards for quality, on the grape juice, at both the San Francisco and
San Diego expositions.
In 1918 conditions were such, on account of war, that grapes, bottles, labor,
etc., were so high that the company made only about 40,000 gallons of grape
juice, which is equal to about twenty carloads when bottled and cased, but they
used about 900 tons of packinghouse cull apples, which make about 135,000 gal-
lons of cider, a large share of which was condensed by evaporation to a syrup.
The increasing demand for the goods is evidence of their high quality.
The Concord and Worden grapes are the only varieties they use in the man-
ufacture of grape juice, and while they have up to this time used not more than
about 350 tons in one season, it has greatly affected the market price for grapes
in the Yakima Valley, and more grapes of these two varieties are being planted
each year. They have started a small vineyard of fifteen acres of their own, and
are in hopes of increasing this to 80 or 100 acres. Mr. Church expects to in-
crease the capacity of his plant to the extent that it will be iiossible to use all of
the grapes of the varieties mentioned grown in the valley more than what are
needed and what there is a demand for on the market, as table grapes. He also
expects to add buildings and equipment for the manufacture of vinegar and
cider on a much larger scale. It is now universally conceded that the Concord
and Worden varieties of grapes are grown to the highest perfection in the
Columbia River Valley of any locality in the L'nited States, and as it requires
grapes of the highest quality to make the best grape juice, it stands to reason
that it is possible to produce a grape juice in this locality that is unsurpassed
anywhere in the United States, if not in the world.
Inasmuch as the entire Northwest has "gone dry," and there is a good pros-
pect that the whole United States will follow, — and yet people are bound to
drink some kind of refreshing and palatable drink — it seems a fair forecast that
the Church grape juice and cider factory will develop into one of the greatest
enterprises in the country. Already Mr. Church finds the demand for his
products entirely l)eyond the capacity of his present plant. His market
extends from \'ictoria to Los Angeles. It is surprising that he could have en-
tered the latter city, in a land of grapes and wine. But it is considered there
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 881
that there is no soft drink to compare with Church's, and some of these days
CaHfornia, too, will cut the alcohol out of her drinkables.
Mr. Church is now installing equipment for utilizing the by-products of his
factory for making vinegar and jelly. Indeed he already does a considerable
business in those lines. He ships hundreds of casks of condensed cider, so con-
densed as to require the addition of six times its volume of water for proper
dilution. When his present plans for enlargements* and betterments are com-
pleted he hopes to put up 400,000 gallons of grape juice and other products in
proportion. One fact is worthy of note, and that is, the producing regions,
mainly of New York and Michigan, from which the chief supplies of grapes for
the immense Welch and Armour factories are drawn, do not compare in any
degree with the lower Yakima for quality and quantity of grape production.
While five or six tons per acre of Concord grapes are a large amount on an
acre in those eastern sections, the Kennewick section will produce eight and ten
or even twelve in some of the older vineyards. The Worden is found to be the
best adapted for manufacturing juice, though many tons of Concords and other
varieties are produced. The Church factory seems to point the way to one of
the greatest and most distinctive industries of the lower Yakima.
An additional fact of interest in connection with the grape industry is the
regular "Grape Carnival" of each September. Displays are made that would
rival California.
Another of the great coming industries of the Yakima Valley, in which the
Benton County section is taking a keen interest, is the beet sugar industry. There
is already a large sugar factory at Yakima City, another at Sunnyside, and an-
other nearing completion at Toppenish. Experiments around Prosser and
Kennewick indicate that the lower valley will be peculiarly adapted to the pro-
duction of beets. The neighbor of the Yakima Valley on the southeast, Walla
Walla, has entered actively upon the raising of sugar beets, with the hope of
the construction of a sugar factory.
As with some of the other towns of the valley, a stay in Kennewick pre-
disposes the visitor to desire to return. Without question a great city will some-
time exist at the junction of the big rivers. Whether the chief location be Pasco
or Kennewick, or both in equal proportion, is a question that only the future can
answer. One of the vital questions for both places now is the completion of the
Inland Empire Highway and the Evergreen Highway and a bridge across the
Coknnbia at this point.
The builders of Kennewick have wisely laid out a large plan and only future
building will disclose the amplitude of possibilities for filling the plan. One of
the most, probably the most, unique and beautiful addition in any cit}- of the
Yakima Valley is found in the Olmstead addition.
The comparative dullness in building and real estate has prevented the fill-
ing up of this beauty spot as rapidly as anticipated by the projectors. But it is
only a question of a few years till the tasteful design is realized in a group of
homes that will indeed fulfill the vision of the forward lookers.
We may fittingly include at the close of this general view of Kennewick a
summary of the part of that city in the World War, as found in the issue of the
Kennewick "Courier-Reporter" of January 2, 1919.
(56)
882 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
KENNEW'ICK's war record creditable — THIS COMMUNITY HAS GIVEN LIBERALLY
OF ITS MANHOOD, ITS MONEY AND ITS LABOR — SOME TOTALS ARE COM-
PILED PEOPLE OF KENNEWICK DISTRICT HAVE GIVEN $6.00
PER CAPITA AND INVESTED $75 PER CAPITA
It is difficult to attempt to measure patriotism, loyalty to a cause, or fealty
in service in material terms. Were it possible though to hold up to a community
a definite standard of "duty done" in the war, Kennewick would not be found
wanting whether the standard be applied to those who went or those who stayed
at home.
Wherever the boys of this community have worn the uniform of their coun-
try', and they are to be found on land and sea in almost everj' quarter of the
globe, they have worn it with credit. As yet there has been prepared no com-
plete roster of the boys who have entered their country's service from this com-
munity, but it is safe to say that no community in the nation has given more
liberally or more proudly of its young men than has this one. The community
has to its credit five captains, two first lieutenants and scores of men in the
ranks. In every branch of the ser\'ice at home and abroad, letters from home
bear the Kennewick postmark. More than a score of Kennewick boys are with
the 146th Field Artillery which took part in every big American battle in France
and won an. enviable reputation for itself. When the "devil-dogs" .won ever-
lasting fame for the LTnited States Marines at Chateau Thierry, Kennewick's
boys were there. They were there with the fighting 91st division when it went
into action in France and again in Belgium. They were there when Marshal
Haig's forces broke the famous Hindenburg line in Flanders. They were at St.
Mihiel, they were at Sedan, and now many of them are in Germany. They were
with the engineers who built the docks and kept the trains running. They were
likewise there on those silent guardians which chased the German U-boats off
the high seas. Proud of them? Of course we are proud of them!
When the boys come home they will have no cause to feel ashamed of but
few of their people who stayed behind, for the home folks have been busy and
have met every war demand made upon them. The community as a whole has
done its full duty. Although not riding upon the free and easy waves of pros-
perity the people have given freely and liberally from their modest earnings.
Although the mere totaling of dollars and cents can by no means tell the
full story of home ser\'ice, these totals do make a very creditable showing and
in a measure index the efforts of the community to win the war and keep the
home fires burning. In doing this many men and women and children of the
community have given not only of dollars, but of their time.
Kennewick and the immediately surrounding territorv, not including Rich-
land, has given to various war work a total of $18,177.74. Of this a total of
$10,790.01 has been given to the Red Cross and $5,487.73 to the Y. M. C. A.
and kindred organizations. Contributions for which no definite figures are
available, such as Armenian and Tlelgian relief. Smileage books, Navy League
and various other war activities are estimated at $1,500.
In the four drives the people of the Kennewick district have purchased
$235,650 worth of Libertv Bonds and this total will be increased bv several
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
883
thousand dollars by the purchase of Thrift and War Savings Stamps, figures
for which are not as yet available.
Estimating the population of the Kennewick district at 3,000, which is a
very liberal estimate, the per capita war contribution is more than $0.00 and
the Liljerty Bond purchase is in excess of $75 per capita.
Some idea of the tireless efforts of the women of the Red Cross is gained
from the fact that they have made 3,852 garments, most of which were large
garments, such as pajamas, convalescent robes, underwear and sweaters. This
total does not include garments made by the D. A. R. Auxiliary, which was
active during the first few months of the war.
Such figures as are available on the different war fund drives follow :
RED CROSS
Quota. Subscribed.
First war drive $ 1,900 $ 3,103.40
Second war drive 2,500 3,052.59
First membership drive 1,041.00
Second membership drive 900.00
Contributions to local branch 2,293.02
Contributions to D. A. R. Auxiliary.. 400.00
Total $10,790.01
Battery E Aless Fund $400.00
Miscellaneous (estimated) 1,500.00
Y. M. c. A.
Quota. Subscribed.
First drive (no record)
Second drive $ 1,000 $ 2,017.25
United drive 2,500 3,470.48
Total $ 5,487.73
Grand total contributions 18,177.74
LIBERTY BONDS
Quota. Subscribed.
First loan $12,000
Second loan $ 52,672 75,100
Third loan 43,800 51,500
Fourth loan 84,907 97,050
Total $235,650
THE SM.\Lt.ER RIVER TOW:
Down the river from Kennewick the traveler will find a highly cultivated
country, the oldest producing section, except the comparativelv small "Garden
Tracts" just up the river.
In that "Kennewick Valley" section down the river, are two little towns,
884 HISTORY OF YAKBIA \'ALLEY
Finley and Hover, and numerous clusters of ranches so closely joined that they
present almost the appearance of towns. The conditions of life and the type of
people found in these places are similar to those in Kennewick. The two sections,
in fact, the one above and the other below Kennewick, relatively a small area of
only about 14,000 acres, have been the producing areas on which the town has
hitherto mainly depended for business. The rapid development of the high-
lands and the general connection of the much larger tract of country around Rich-
land have already increased the support of business lines centering in Kennewick.
It is obvious, however, that the support of the near future is to come from the
vastly larger area to be developed by the water systems of the High Line Canal
or Sunnyside Extension. When still further the Horse Heaven country receives
its supply of creative moisture, Kennewick with 150,000 or more tributary acres
under intensive farming will be indeed some city.
The student of Benton County, to do real justice to it, should certainly make
his way down the river below the Umatilla Highlands, the "Wallula Gateway,"
with its superb scenery, and pursue his journey even to the Klickitat County line.
There are no towns in this section, however, but there are the beginnings of cul-
tivation, and with adequate water the ardent sun and the rich volcanic soil will
quickly bring orchards and alfalfa fields to fruition. That section, as also the
Kennewick Valley, is traversed by the Spokane, Portland & Seattle Railroad, but
the next improvement in transportation now most eagerly awaited is the Ever-
green Highway, to be constructed down the north bank of the Columbia all the
way to Vancouver.
Retracing our course to Kennewick we may resume our in\estigation by vis-
iting the three fine little towns upon the bank of the Columbia, Richland, Hanford
and White Bluffs. Each of these places is the center of a fine tract of cultivated
land, all of which have been described in the chapter on Irrigation. We have also
spoken in the chapter on Benton County of the early settlements in the Richland
country. Richland was founded by Howard Anion as an adjunct to the enterprise
inaugurated by himself and Nelson Rich for irrigating that region. The author
has l:)een informed by Ben Rosencrantz, first original settler in the vicinity, that
Levi Ankeny had called Mr. Anion's attention to the place as the natural location
for a town. During the development brought on by the Benton Land & Water
Company of Messrs. Anion and Rich and its successor the Horn Rapids Irriga-
tion Company, the town made considerable growth.
In 1910 the development seemed to justify incorporation. .Accordingly in
August of that year Richland became an incorporated town. A number of active
and intelligent men have carried on the necessary business for the gradually de-
veloping country, among whom the most permanent are Wheelhouse Brothers,
Harry and Louis. At present date O. B. Rollins is mayor, E. G. Bier is clerk,
A. L. Nelson is treasurer and Lou Wheelhouse. W. H. Muncey, H. E. Yedica.
M. S. Miller and C. S. Teachout are coimcilmen.
A vast amount of produce comes from the orchards, corn fields and alfalfa
fields of the fine tract of land around Richland. On account of the warmth of the
weather and the very quick, rather sandy soil, this section seems to be in the very
forefront in early production. It is commonly claimed, in fact, that the earliest
strawberries in the state come from Richland.
HISTORY OF YAKIAIA VALLEY • 885
The town is not directly upon any railway line, though the Oregon-Wash-
ington Railway and Navigation Company has a station about three miles distant.
The ten mile journey can be made by auto over the elegant highway, or by boat,
the "Hanford Flyer" or some other. It is a delightful ride by boat up the
majestic tlood of the Columbia, sublimest of rivers, whether in deserts or moun-
tains or "continuous woods."
Richland, though a small town, is not a whit behind her larger sisters in the
pride and effort taken in her schools. An excellent building and good equipment
has habituated the pupils to expect ample provision for their mental and discip-
linary needs. A general high grade of teachers has been maintained. In debate
and oratory and athletics the pupils of the high school department have held their
own with those of the larger towns.
The school property in the district has an estimated value of $40,000. The
teaching force at the present date consists of C. W. Holt as superintendent and
Miss Myrtle Gray as principal of the grade schools. There are ten teachers in the
Richland schools and one at Fruitvale, which is also in the district. The names
of these teachers, as of all in the county, appear in the directory in the chapter on
Benton County.
The school board consists of H. J. Clark, C. C. Harding and S. M. Ross.
C. S. Teachout is clerk. A newspaper, the "Richland Advocate," is published by
Perry Willoughby. We have referred to him in the chapter on the press as very
nearly the dean of the newspaper men of this section, having been the founder
of the "Hanford Columbian" and the "Hover Sunshine." One specially pleas-
ant feature of this section is the regular Richland Festival in September. To
this gathering are brought the characteristic productions of the section, exhibit-
ing the wonderful capabilities of the soil.
From Richland we may resume our journey by a first-class highway,
almost entirely in sight of the river, or the even pleasanter journey by motor
boat to the next stopping point, Hanford. Hanford derives its name from
Judge C. H. Hanford of Seattle, who in conjunction with Gen. H. M. Chitten-
den of the same city, conceived and inaugurated the plan of irrigating the
splendid belt of fertile land stretching for thirty miles along the river, by a
pumping station for which jiower is derived from Priest Rapids. The iiox.er
at that point is estimated at a minimum of 240,000 H. P., at high water prac-
tically without limit. The fall is about seventy feet in a distance of ten miles.
When the Government gets around to build a dam and install a power plant
commensurate with the possibilities this will become one of the greatest sources
of electric energy in the world.
Boats have descended Priest Rapids with no serious trouble and some have
e\en made their way up, but the river can not be considered commercially
navigable in its present state. With the proposed dam and locks it will become
navigable, and with some improvements at those and a few other points, it can
be regularly navigated to Kettle Falls, three hundred and more miles above
Kennewick. Canal and locks would be necessary at Kettle Falls. Then with
some improvements at Little Dalles, the river might be navigated continuously
through the .Arrow Lakes, three hundred miles farther, to Revelstoke, nearh a
886 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
thousand miles from the ocean. Sometime this will be accomplished, and one
of the grandest waterways in the world will then be open to travelers.
Priest Rapids is but one of a number of great powers in eastern and cen-
tral Washington. It has been estimated by the department of engineering of the
University of Washington that the possible water power of the state is
13,125,000 H. P. That of the Columbia and its tributaries, not counting the
White Salmon, the Klickitat, the Chelan, and the Spokane, is 5,800,000. Those
four rivers named, estimated separately, total 1,260,000. Thus, the Columbia
with all its tributaries in the state has a total horsepower of over 7,000,000.
It has been estimated that the Columbia with all its tributaries in Oregon,
Washington and Idaho, has a third of the horsepower of the United States.
The belt of land in which Hanford and White Bluffs are located is there-
fore favorably located for the greatest future development. Moreover a vast
area extending many miles along the easterly flanks of the Rattlesnake hills
can be irrigated from the Sunnyside Extension Canal. Thus the two towns are
assured of an ever developing tributary country of great extent and almost lim-
itless resources. Both Hanford and White Bluli's are on the branch line of the
Milwaukee Railroad. This, with the future possibilities of river transportation,
place these two towns upon the list of prospective cities of large population
and extensive commerce. The whole region is without question one of the
coming regions.
We find Hanford a well-built and well-platted village of 250 inhabitants.
It has a library, a park, two churches, and the excellent schools regularly found
in this section.
From Prof. W. L. Beaumont we learn that the high school building is valued
at $16,000 and the grade school building at $10,000. During the current year
there has been an enrollment of twenty-four in the high school and seventy-six
in the grades. The high school department was established with a two-year
course in 1917, when B. G. Johnson was principal and ]\Ir. Hoover and Miss
Lovely were assistants. The present year marked an increase of one year to
the high school course, with a faculty consisting of W. L. Beaumont and Mr.
T'erkins. The grade teachers are Miss Weismiller, Mrs. Evett and Mrs. Clark.
White BlufTs, eight miles up the river from Hanford, has a superb location
on a sightly bench fifty or sixty feet above the river level. It has an estimated
population of 500. There are excellent water and lighting systems, a bank —
First Bank of White BlufTs — a fine system of grade schools, though as yet no
high school, and several well-stocked stores.
The splendid tract of land of 15,000 acres adjoining the town is new in-
deed and only just coming into productive bearing, but already large quantities
of alfalfa hay and fruit are coming into market. There are three churches:
Presbyterian, Lutheran and Catholic.
An excellent weekly, the "White Blufl's Spokesman." of which E. J.
O'Leary is editor and publisher, supplies news and an advertising medium for
the district of which Priest Rapids in Yakima County and W'hite BluiTs and
Hanford are the business centers. We find in the "Spokesman" of November
8, 1918, a series of items of value bearing on the agricultural and political con-
ditions. We include them at this point.
I
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 887
"The C. A. Whitney hay baler has been running almost steadily for the last
two weeks, baling out the hay crop of local ranchers. None of the tonnage to
speak of has been purchased so far by sheepmen and unless' they get busy
pretty soon it is probable that most of the crop will be shipped out. A few cars
have already moved to outside markets. Up until recently the price has been
around $25 per ton f. o. b. the cars, but it is ofT a little now and buyers are said
to be offering around $23. Unless picked up by stockmen, it is estimated that
there will be about fifty cars shipped out of White Blufifs this Fall.
MAY START DAM BY CHRISTMAS
Milton Dam, of Seattle, one of the owners of the Diamond "D" ranch at
Priest Rapids, was in the valley this week looking after business interests. Mr.
Dam had just returned from Washington, D. C, and says that the water power
leasing bill is all ready for passage and will be enacted into law before Decem-
ber 1st and that actual construction work on the dam at Priest Rapids will be
under way by Christmas. Mr. Dam has extensive real estate holdings around
Priest Rapids and has worked incessantly for the last four or five years to
secure the passage of some law through Congress liberal enough to tempt the
power companies to develop the large power site there. The legislation in Con-
gress seems to have developed into a race between a water power leasing bill
and one that will permit the government to develop power sites.
The development of the Priest Rapids site by either private capital or the
Government would undoubtedly lend tremendous impetus to the settlement of
the valley.
ASSOCIATED CHARITIES ASK YOUR SUPPORT
The United War Work Campaign, which begins next Monday and closes
the following Saturday, should merit the approval of every good American citi-
zen. Never before in the history of the world have differences in creeds been
laid so utterly in the background and the efforts of all these great world-wide
charitable organizations directed toward the one object — that of providing every
possible comfort for our boys, not only on the battlefield but at the rest billets
and training camps as well. These associated charities are: Y. M. C. A.,
Knights of Columbus, Jewish Welfare Board, Salvation Army, American Li-
brary Association, War Camp Community Service, and Y. W. C. A.
The campaign at White Bluffs is under the direction of Ben Hering and
D. S. Wilkinson and of D. C. Priddy at Hanford. The quota for this district
is approximately $500 and as apportioned at White Bluffs amounts to' about
$2.25 per family. Read the big display ad on the back page of the "Spokesman,"
and by all means send your contribution in and save the committee the neces-
sity of a personal canvass.
APPLE HARVEST IS OVER
The apple harvest, which has just come to a close in this valley, has been,
weather considered, the most satisfactory in the history of the district. There
was scarcely any wind to contend with, and therefore fewer windfalls than ever
to be marketed. While the scarcity of help was keenly felt at times, growers as
888 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
a rule were able to get their apples ott the trees on schedule. There was some
difficulty about getting sufficient color on some of the earlier varieties, but later
ones took on a beautiful tint, the Winesaps in particular being the finest ever
shipped out of the valley.
Unusually warm weather during the harvesting of the Jonathans was not
conducive to the keeping qualities of that variety, or others that were har\'ested
about that time and those growers who made immediate shipment secured the
best results.
This is what is known as an "ott-year" in apples and the yield on the old
trees was not as large, generally, as last year. The younger orchards coming
on, however, especially around White Bluffs, made up for much of this defec-
tion of the older trees and the tonnage here was nearly as great as, last year. At
Hanford, the packed out crop was not much more than half last year's tonnage.
Quite a little damage was done this year by the codling moth, particularly
to the larger varieties like the Spitz and Romes. This was partly due to the
season, which seems to have been exceptionally favorable to the propagation of
this pest, and partly to the carelessness of the growers in not spraying a sufTi-
cient number of times.
Except in a few cases where small lots were shipped to Seattle, no com-
plete returns have been received by the growers to date. Some of the growers
have stored a part of their Winesaps, in the belief that the price after the first
of the year will be considerably better than it is now. The big bulk of the crop,
however, has been sold at prices much better than in ordinary years.
Eleven cars of pears were shipped out of Hanford and White Bluff's. The
bulk of these were Bartletts and the balance D'Anjous and Winter Nellis. Five
of these cars were shipped by the Spokane Fruit Growers' Company and six
cars by the Wenatchee Valley Fruit Exchange.
The Spokane Fruit Growers' Association report their apple pack out at
Hanford will be approximately 17,000 boxes, or about twenty-three cars; and
at White Bluffs 19,000 boxes, or approximately twenty-five cars. The
\\'enatchee Fruit Exchange reports a shipment of sixteen cars of apples from
Hanford and forty from White Bluff's. In addition, there were about twenty-
seven cars shipped independently from White Bluff's, making a total of 131
cars of aijples for the season from the valley.
BASH WINS IN HARD FIGHT
The election in Benton County last Tuesday, which looked a few days
before like a friendly little skirmish, developed into one of the toughest battles
of ballots waged in this county for some time, with Bash and McGlothlen, for
commissioner of this district, as pivots. All the other contests became secondary
considerations. Bash led the hosts from the east side of the countv and
McGlothlen those from the west side. E. W. R. Taylor and his crew at Prosser
had worked out their scheme carefully, with much attention to detail. They
had selected as their candidate an old timer in the district with no political tar-
nish to his name. They had gotten practically every eligible voter on the west
side to register and while holding before the dazzled eyes of the voters the pic-
HISTORY OF YAKLAIA VALLEY 889
ture of an elaborate courthouse at I'rosser, spared neither expense nor ettort
to see that they all got out and voted. Had they not been quite so cock-sure and
spilled the beans to one or two that they thought were friends, they might have
gotten away with their scheme. It was only in the last few days before the elec-
tion that the east side wakened to the possibilities of the impending struggle.
Only a fair proportion of the voters in the Kennewick district were reg-
istered but they all got out and voted. Bash received about 90 per cent, of the
east side vote and 10 per cent, of the west side vote. White Bluffs gave Bash
an even 100 and McGlothlen 25. Hanford gave Bash 115 and McGlothlen 19.
The unofficial count in the county, with four small precincts to hear from was :
Bash, 1160 and McGlothlen 996.
The entire republican ticket in the county was elected. Summers for Con-
gress beat AlcCroskey 1178 to 831 and had a big lead in the district. Moores
for the legislature beat Furgeson 1134 to 960. Starr for treasurer had a big
lead over Airs. Huntington. Main, Mount and Alitchell were elected to the
Supreme Court.
LEMCKE BRIXGS IN BIG TR.\CTOR
Shortly after he had secured the last of his oil leases on a large body of land
in the Cold Creek country this summer, H. W. Lemcke purchased from the
Northern Pacific Railroad the section of land lying directly west of the Archie
Brown homestead, paying $2.75 per acre. At that time this was considered a
very fair price. Since the discovery of artesian water in the Brown well, how-
ever, the value of the land there has been considerably enhanced and Mr.
Lemcke is considered now to have a nice little fortune in this land.
He is not content to sit idly by, though, while waiting for the drill in the
Brown well to prove whether or not there is oil in that field, and has bought a
Ford truck and a tractor and will seed as much as possible of the land to wheat
and alfalfa, utilizing the water from the artesian well for irrigation.
He recently secured a lease on the Brown homestead for a term of years
and plans to seed part of this place first. Mr. Lemcke says he can sell to sheep-
men all the alfalfa he can raise, at the highest market price.
Murray E. Cobb is associated with him in the enterprise and will have
active charge of the work. The tractor bought by Mr. Lemcke is the first to be
brought into the valley and if it proves practical and economical it is probable
they will be used here generally where large tracts of land are farmed."
With this last visit at White Blufifs we complete our journey through the
last of the counties and sections of the Yakima Valley. We concluded the pre-
ceding chapter with a general summary of production for Yakima and Benton
counties. We may conclude this chapter with the statement that Mr. Luke
Powell of Prosser, state inspector of orchards for the Kennewick and White
BluiTs district of Benton County, estimates the production of fruit, mainly apples
and pears, in the district in 1918, at 550 carloads. According to Mr. Powell's
judgment the estimates in the preceding chapter for the Yakima and Wenatchee
districts are below the actual product. He believes that a conservative estimate
for 1918 would be 8,000 carloads of fruit in Y'akima Valley, including Yakima,
Kittitas and Benton counties, and an equal amount for the Wenatchee district,
including Chelan, Okanogan, Douglas and Grant counties.
CHAPTER VIII
THE CAMP-FIRES AND TALK-FESTS OF THE PIONEERS
ORGANIZING PIONEER ASSOCIATION — WOMEN's CLUBS OFFICERS OF KITTITAS
PIONEERS — RECOLLECTIONS OF O. A. FECIITER — HEADGATES OF CANAL RAISED-
FIRST REAL ESTATE BOOM — THE BUBBLE BURSTS TOWN WAS WIDE OPEN-
PIONEERS — THE woman's CLUB, YAKIMA — MUSICAL CLUB — TWENTIETH CEN-
TURY CLUB — PORTIA CLUB — HOME ECONOMICS CLUB THE COTERIE CLUB ART
COMMITTEE YAKIMA VALLEY DISTRICT FEDERATION MOTHER'S CONGRESS
D. A. R. CHAPTER P. E. O. WAR ORGANIZATIONS MRS. HARRISON'S RECOL-
LECTIONS OF THE BUILDING OF SUNNYSIDE — TOWN BUILDING OLD TIMES IN*
THE YAKIMA VALLEY^ AS NARRATED BY MRS. WARNECKE — RETURN TO PENDLE-
TON A FERRY BOAT THE FIRST GIRL's RECOLLECTIONS OF KENNEWICK
SAGEBRUSH EVERYWHERE PREEMPT A CLAIM FIRST BUSINESS BUILDING
MEADOW lark's SONG LINGERS — TWO NOTED CONTEMPORARY INDIAN CHIEFS,
AS GIVEN BY L. V. MCWHORTER.
A Chapter of Recollections
This is to be a chapter of recollections. We preserve here special contribu-
tions from a number of residents of the Yakima Valley who participated in making
the foundations, or who, as children, saw those foundations laid. No one can
tell the story from the heart as those can who helped make it. We believe
therefore that the records of this chapter will have an exceptional interest to
future readers as descendants of the builders.
In each of the chief places, and even in several of the small ones repre-
sented in this work, there have been pioneer and historical societies. It will
strike the reader as singular, but it is nevertheless a fact, that in the very first
number of the first newspaper in Yakima City, the "Weekly Record" of Sep-
tember 6, 1879. there is a call for a meeting to organize a Pioneer Association.
The call is printed in full in the chapter on the Press, but it is suitable that we
reproduce part of it here :
ORGANIZING PIONEER ASSOCI.'VTION
"On Saturday night, October 11, 1879, at the courthouse at Yakima City,
there will be a meeting to organize a Pioneer Association for Yakima County,
of all persons who resided in said county on the day the first issue of this paper
was published. Turn out, all professions and pursuits! Come, ye honest sons
of toil! Come, ye who have braved the storms of pioneer life! Come, ye
whose matchless valor has never quailed before war-whoops and scalping-
knives."
From that day to this there has been more or less of regular organization
for preserving the records of "the brave days of old." There has been for many
890
HISTORY OF YAKBIA VALLEY 891
years a Yakima Pioneer Society, of which David Longmire is now president
and John Lynch is secretary.
There is also a Yakima Historical Society, of which A. E. Larson is presi-
dent and W. W. Wiley is secretary. The Sons of the American Revolution,
of which Frederic C. Hall is president, have taken an active part in preserving
local history. Very fittingly these three presidents are members of the Advis-
ory Board of this work.
women's clubs
There have been also most active Women's Clubs, Daughters of the x\meri-
can Revolution, and other patriotic organizations, which have borne a leading
part in everything pertaining to preservation of history as well as in the culti-
vation of local spirit and in the beautification of the city. These societies have
cooperated in erecting monuments and otherwise marking historic spots. A full
view of the Women's societies is given in this chapter by Mrs. E. A. Larson.
The Pioneer and Historical Societies have united from time to time in regular
meetings which may be called their "talk-fests." The latest of these occurred
on June 30, 1918, at the farm of Wallace Wiley near Tampico.
The place is known as Kamiakin's Gardens, and the stern old chief, "Last
Hero of the Yakimas," was the main theme of discussion. Thousands of peo-
ple, whites and Indians, were present. Several of the notable students of his-
tory from other regions were present, as well as representatives of all the lead-
ing local organizations. For one of the most notable of the visitors this was the
last pioneer gathering. This was Gen. Hazard Stevens, known throughout the
Northwest and the nation, both for his own qualities and for the fact that he
was the son of Governor I. I. Stevens. A few months later he passed away, at
the age of seventy-eight.
Addresses were made by a number of visitors and local members. .An iron
post was placed with imposing ceremonies at a point by the roadside where it
was believed that Kamiakin's irrigating canal had passed, the first in the valley.
A grand and glorious "feed," even though jt were war times and the specter of
Herbert C. Hoover loomed above the eastern horizon, in the profuse luxuriance
of the Ahtanum farmers, was an essential feature. Though it was a hot sum-
mer day some blazing logs recalled the "Camp-fires of the Pioneers."
The addresses of the occasion, with the subjects were these : Chief Stwires,
of the Yakimas, a Klickitat Indian by birth, on the Indians of the old times, a
really remarkable speech ; George H. Himes, of Portland, on the Naches Immi-
grant road: Mrs. A. J. Splawn, of Yakima, on Kamiakin and his garden: Prof.
E. S. Meany, of the State LTnJversity, on the Yakima Treaty: Air. W. P.
Bonney, secretary of the Washington State Historical Society, on the work
of that society ; Gen. Hazard Stevens on his personal recollections of Kamiakin
and the treaty of 1855 at Walla Walla; Miss Martha Wiley, of Ahtanum, on
Pioneer Missionaries ; Prof. W. D. Lyman, of Walla Walla, on Pioneer Patriots :
j\lr. Talcott, of Olympia, on the historical societies of his part of the state: L. \'.
McWhorter, of Yakima, on his personal observations of the Yakima Indians;
and finally that by Mr. Wallace Wiley, on whose ranch the gathering was held,
explaining localities and historical connections.
892 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
That last notable galherint;; may be considered as a sample of others of
earlier date.
EUensburg is no whit behind her older sister in the activity of her histori-
cal students. Those whom we are so fortunate as to name as members of the
Advisory Board in EUensburg, have made invaluable contributions to local his-
tory ; Airs. John B. Davidson, Lion. Austin Mires, Judge Ralph Kauffman, Dr.
J. A. ■\Iahan, Oliver Hinman, Prof. Selden Symser and Miss Mary A. Grupe
of the Normal School.
In connection with the Normal School, the work of the students and even
of the children of the sixth grade in the training school, is worthy of special
recognition, and has been used in earlier chapters of this part. Besides those
on the Advisory Board at EUensburg, special mention may be made of Mr.
(jerrit d'Ablaing, Mrs. C. P. Cooke, Henry Schnebly and Mr. and Mrs-. William
Taylor, perfect encyclopedias of pioneer knowledge.
An event of special interest in connection with the Pioneers of Kittitas
County was a picnic in Sliger's Grove on August 22, 190L At that meeting,
with its camp-fires and barbecue and other frontier features, a pioneer asso-
ciation was organized, composed of all who had come to Kittitas in or prior
to 1886. A thousand people or more were [iresent and an eloquent address was
given by Edward Whitson, one of the earliest Kittitas boys, later a distin-
guished Yakima attorney, and still later a Federal judge.
OFFICERS OF KITTITAS PIONEERS
The officers of that association were : J. F. LeClerc, president ; Tilman
Houser. vice-president ; R. A. Turner, secretary ; M. M. Dammon, Matthew
Bartholet, A. J. Sliger, J. W. McDonald, W. L. German, J. G. Olding, F. Bos-
song, and John Packwood, directors.
The newer towns of the valley, Prosser, Kennewick, Sunnyside. Toppenish,
Alabton, Grandview, Richland and others, while having a smaller background
in time, have also had their zealous students of local history. To members of
the Advisory Board in those places great praise is due. The women's organiza-
tions in all those places have led in the work of collecting historical data.
With these prefactory facts, the special contributions may now appear.
The Recollections of O. A. Fechter of Yakima may fittingly begin these
contributions. Coming here but little more than a boy just after the comple-
tion of the Northern Pacific Railroad, Mr. Fechter has been one of the true
Ijuilders in the business and municipal life of the valley. Aside from his accu-
racy of observation and report, Mr. Fechter's literaiy skill and taste are mani-
fest in all that he writes.
Yakima as seen through the eyes of this leading business man, makes a
most vivid companion picture of the fair city of the present.
RECOLLECTIONS OF O. A. FECHTER
More than thirty years have passed since on a fourth day of July, the writer,
firompted by idle curiosity, stepped from a railway coach on which he was
journeying to the coast to seek his fortune, to the station platform at North
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 893
Yakima and looked at a typical western village lying dormant, exhausted and
sweltering in a blazing midsummer sun.
Yakima Avenue extended before him, a wide white stretch of gravel and
sand from which rose clouds of dust. It was crowded with Indians who, with
true western spirit and in true western fashion, were celebrating the Nation's
birthday. Dressed in gay, highly colored holiday attire and mounted in twos
and even threes on a nondescript lot of ponies, which looked as if they would
succumb under their burdens, they presented an unusual sight and were not
only guests at the feast but provided a large share of the entertainment.
The town was largely hidden by the dense foliage of young locust and Cot-
tonwood trees that had made an extraordinarily rapid growth and which at
that time were planted on all of the streets, including both sides of Yakima
Avenue. What was visible of it consisted almost entirely of rough board
buildings with square fronts many of them in a dilapidated state.
These fronts, while anything but attractive themselves, served to conceal
what was still less so and to distinguish the buildings as business houses. It is
worthy of comment that not one of them is left on the avenue today. The town
looked to be old and in a state of decay rather than young and with a vigorous
growth before it. Only that and the dense mass of foliage crowning the shade
trees on every street saved it from being classed with a large number of other
small towns along the line of the railway on which the journey had been made,
since entering the new and undeveloped West, towns that showed evidences of
haste and were new and crude and characteristic of the open country and vast
empty spaces in which they were situated.
The sight, while novel, was not inspiring. It was saved from being com-
monplace by the Indians and the canopy of green under which they were gath-
ered. The writer wondered whether his coming to this state meant that he
would be doomed to spend the remainder of his life in a town like that. His
apprehension was not unfounded for three weeks later he again alighted from
a train, this time an east-bound, and walked down the avenue under the shade
of the trees just as the sun, setting behind the western range painted the nearby
hills with purple and gold, and with fading lights and darkening shadows re-
touched the old and worn, and made bright the dingy and dull, leaving an im-
pression on him of subtle charm and exquisite beauty that has never been
eft'aced.
As he stepped from the railway coach, he was the only arrival, a horde of
men gazed at the incoming stranger with curiosity. The arrival of a train was
one of each day's important events. All the male, inhabitants of the town
seemed to have congregated there. There were cowboys booted and spurred
whose saddle ponies, with bridles trailing on the ground, waited nearby without
other restraint, for the return of their riders. Indians wrapped and muffled in
blankets held close to their chins, stood leaning lazily against the depot walls
or stepped softly on moccasined feet, looking on with stolid air. Beside them
on the platform sat their squaws holding their bundled babies strapped to boards,
powerless to move and scarcely able to assert themselves even with their only
language of a cry.
The station was located at the intersection of Front Street and Yakima
894 HISTORY UF YAKLMA VALLEY
Avenue which at that time was no thoroughfare. West Yakima Avenue being
nothing but a cow trail winding through the sagebrush.
As the train moved out the crowd moved on and the writer moved with it
down the avenue under the canopy of trees, turning south at First Street until
the old Guilland House on the corner of Chestnut was reached. This was not
the only but the leading hotel in the city. I'nder a wooden awning exteniling
across the sidewalk sat the owaier, smoking his pipe at his ease. In a decided
French accent he extended a cordial welcome to the only arrival on that train.
The hotel was built of boards in the prevailing style but was two stories
high. It too was far from new, having been moved on wheels from the "Old
Town" over four miles of trackless sagebrush at the time that the "Mew Town"
was planned and built on the ruins of the old. It continued to be the leading
hotel until "The Yakima" was built and opened on a summer night in 1889 with
a dance, in one of the store rooms on the first floor, that was the leading social
function that had ever been held in the town that gave the hotel its name. Only
one thing marred the festivities of the evening. While the dance was at its
highest a red glow w'as observed on the northern horizon and soon afterward
word was received that the neighboring and rival town of Ellensburg was on
fire and was threatened with destruction.
Many men who made history in the West have been sheltered under the
hospitable roof of the Guilland Hotel. Among them were Henry Villard, jour-
nalist in the period before the Civil War and war correspondent during the
four years of combat and later one of the great financiers and railroad builders
of the country. Also his associate, Paul Schulze, Land Commissioner of the
Northern Pacific Railroad who dealt the death blow to the "Old Town" in plat-
ting and exploiting the new and was feared and hated as a consequence of it,
and who later built the Sunnyside Canal. The writer will never forget his
first sight of these two men. It w-as another such a summer evening. They
had just arrived on the train and were walking down the avenue on their way
from the station to the Guilland House.
News of their coming had spread and the town was out curiously intent on
seeing these men who held in their hands the destinies of an empire and the
fortunes of those who lived in it. On Henry Villard more than any other man
had depended the completion of that great enterprise, the Northern Pacific
Railroad. On the successful issue of this great undertaking hung in the bal-
ance the fortunes of the country through which the road passed and to it the
town of North Yakima owed its birth and its continued existence.
It was a silent awe-stricken crowd that watched these men who apparently
were olilivious of the fact that they were the cynosure of all eyes,
\ illard, the personification of controlled force and reserve power, heavy of
countenance and of serious mein, walked with bowed head and measured step.
Schulze, alifable but arrogant, true representative of his race, dressed in the
height of fashion, walked with head erect and jaunty air.
The two presented a marked contrast to each other yet each was true to
type. The modest and (juiet dignity of the one served only to emphasize his
apjjarent strength and force of character and as a foil to the egotism and vanity
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 895
of the other but Schulze was a big man in his own way and a considerable fac-
tor in the upbuilding of the state.
Villard was gifted with the vision of a builder of empire. He built a rail-
road through a trackless country, sparsely inhabited, in which there was
scarcely any traffic, but the growth and development of which he foresaw and
which has since confirmed his judgment. He did not foresee the vicissitudes
and periods of depression through which the country would pass and the length
of time required to develop a traffic adequate to support the great enterprise,
and its failure and that of its great promoter occurred simultaneously. P.oth,
however, possessed the inherent strength to recover, but Mllard's troubles
hastened his end and he died in 1900. The railroad has developed into one of
the world's greatest transportation enterprises and to a large extent it is a
monument to his genius.
To Schulze, the Yakima Valley owes a debt of gratitude because he con-
ceived and carried out the irrigation of that part of the valley known as the
Sunnyside country by means of the Sunnyside Canal which at the time was per-
haps the largest in the west. It has since been acquired by the Federal Gov-
ernment under the terms of the Reclamation Act and has been greatly improved
and extended.
HE.\DG.\TES OF CANAL RAISED
On a raw, cold day in December of the year 1890, the headgates of the canal
were raised for the first time with appropriate ceremonies and the waters of
the river tumbled and surged into it with a rush and roar that told of their life-
giving qualities that have since transformed that section from a vast desert into
a land of orchards and meadows and gardens and homes of a prosperous and
contented people.
A comparatively small number of men and women had assembled there.
Schulze, over whom even then hung the shadow of impending doom, was mas-
ter of ceremonies. The headgate which was large enough to accommodate a
considerable number of people, servetl as a platform. Fashionably dressed as
usual and carrying a small bunch of flowers in his hand and leaning on a cane
he made a short address. He and his special guests had been driven from the
town of North Yakima to the intake of the canal in the one covered hack that
the town afforded. Among those assembled were several so-called cattle kings
whose stock for many years had fattened on bunch grass that grew on the plain
which now would cease to be a range. They were silent but interested wit-
nesses of the event. To them it meant that their day was passing, that the
ownership of large herds would no longer be profitable, that the old West of
vast unoccupied spaces and long distances, with here and there a corral or a
low roofed cabin home near a spring or watering place, was passing out for-
ever. A new era had come and the cattle range and the picturesque cowboy
and the unbroken solitude would soon be only a memory. Not long afterward
it became impossible to longer conceal that the enormous and unexpected cost
of building the Canal had led Schulze to wrongfully convert the funds of the
railroad company of which he was a trusted employee into the coffers of the
irrigation company of which he was the controlling spirit. Game to the last,
however, he died by his own hand before his defaidt had been exposed.
S96 HISTORY OF YAKIAIA VALLEY
FIRST REAL ESTATE BOOM
It was at about this time that the tirst real estate boom was inaugurated.
The Western boom is a creation of man and is not necessarily justified by con-
ditions as they exist but is a product of the imagination and of the hopes and
aspirations and cupidity of man. Llnder the guidance of those who had been
a part of the development of the West and who had followed it in its westward
course, the measure of a man's wealth soon became the number of town lots
he owned. Additions to the town for which there was no need were platted,
the lots were sold not for the purpose of building homes or improvement, but
for resale by the purchasers at advanced prices. A few pretentious buildings
were erected, for which there was no real demand, to some extent at least for
the purpose of influencing values and accelerating sales of nearby properties.
Many real estate offices were opened and many men without offices made it a
business to buy and sell, and for a time at least they prospered.
Among the large non-resident owners of property were Martin \'an Buren
Stacy, who was a frequent visitor and for short intervals made his home at the
Guilland Hotel. He was the most plausible of men, full of resources and with
an extraordinary ability in carrying conviction to others. It was worth whatever
it may have cost to come under the influence of and to be swayed by the won-
derful power of this man. He met adversity in the same spirit as success and
he never admitted defeat until he met that imjilacable enemy before whom we
all must succumb in the end.
y\nother of the large non-resident owners was Allen C. Mason of Tacoma.
His was the spirit of a crusader and the faith of a religious bigot. He believed
in the State of Washington and in his home city and in Yakima and he believed
in himself and with good reason, because everybody that knew him believed
in him as well. He financed the Selah Canal and other large enterprises and
in many ways was a considerable factor in the early development of the city
and valley. He still lives at Tacoma respected and honored by all who know him.
Among the local real estate promoters. Fred R. Reed was the outstanding
figure. He was not a large owner himself but represented large owners. He
was a spender rather than a saver and was filled with an enthusiasm that spent
itself in eiTervescence and with a kindliness and charitableness that found their
outlet in many generous deeds and that made everybody his friend and made
him the friend of everybody. For the brief space of a year he was mayor of
the city and his duties as such were more honored in the breach than in the
observance, but he gave a certain glamour to the office that shed a reflected
light on the city that gave it much gratuitous publicit}-.
Although he has lived elsewhere a quarter of a century, his was such an
unusual per.sonality and he was so much admired and loved, that there are those
among old timers to this day, who hope and believe that some da\- he will
return to his first love that has in the fullness of time so richly fulfilled his
highest imaginings. It is such men as these that made tlie West. It is the
\\'est that made such men as these. The child is father to the man. It is with
the passing of such men that the West is passing away forever and with it, the
spirit of tolerance, the charity, the breadth and unconventionality of the pioneer.
It is like the passing of youth never to return and it is an irreparable loss.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 897
THE BUBBLE BURSTS
But the bubble burst as all bubbles will. Rapidly rising real estate values
anticipate not the immediate but the distant future, and many of the prospective
developments that values were based on in that distant day have come to pass
only in recent years, twenty or twenty-five years after the transaction in real
estate which was prompted by them was made, but they have come to pass and
the prophets of old have been vindicated.
It was the boom that changed the character of the town and its people. It
ceased to be a village and that, after all is said, was its greatest charm. In the
true village there is a restfulness and lack of conventionality and a degree of
good fellowship that is not found in larger places or those that are rapidly
increasing in numbers. There is time for leisure and rest and sociability. This
is especially true in localities in which the Summers are long and warm. During
the heat of the day there is no incentive to work, business is at a low ebb and
the indoor dweller seeks the out of doors and relief in idleness. The heat leads
to relaxation of the restraints of life. This was true of Yakima. It was no
uncommon sight of a late Summer afternoon to see business and even pro-
fessional men gathered around a box on the sidewalk eating watermelon or
sitting on the curb discussing the weather. Chairs tilted against the walls of
the buildings told their own stories and so did their occupants. The wonderful
Summer nights, peculiar to the arid regions, clear and starry and with a slight
breeze drifting down from cooler altitudes, were spent out in the open. People
sat out on their porches and visited with each other and as the Summer
advanced all those who were able to do so, camped out in the mountains for
a week or two usually at the Ahtanum Soda Springs located about thirty miles
from the city. Public entertainments were of the amateur variety and usually
much enjoyed regardless of merit.
TOWN WAS WIDE OPEN
In marked contrast to present day conditions were the large number of
saloons that were run wide open and the practice of gambling. There were
professional gamblers known as tin horns whose sole business and a profitable
one at that was dealing in a stud poker game or at faro or turning a roulette
wheel. Large sums were staked and won and lost and many men of good
standing in the community were addicted to the habit. The games were carried
on without much concealment and the click of chips as they passed from hand
to hand could be plainly heard by the passer-by even though the players were
hidden from view. Saloons were open day and night including Sundays. Efforts
made by churches to enforce the Sunday closing laws for a long time were
unavailing and in one instance at least, almost ended in a riot. It was the
frontier spirit that held sway, the spirit of adventure that knew no bounds. It
was a part of the first beginning of the West that did not survive the influx of
people intent on building homes and permanent development.
This new era of hom^ building and development was ushered in by the
construction of irrigation canals. The Sunnyside Canal, which covers sixty
thousand acres of the lower valley, has been referred to. The first settlers
(57)
898 HISTORY OF YAKDIA VALLEY
under that consisted largely of such as had lost their positions and means of
making a livelihood in the collapse of the boom throughout the state and imme-
diately after the first blighting touch of the panic of 1893. They were attracted
by the alluring stories of opportunities to secure productive farms and attrac-
tive homes at a low cost, land that would pay for itself within the time that
payment for it was stipulated to be made. No account was taken of the diffi-
culties of subduing the land, of successfully irrigating it and of the hardships
of pioneering. The result was that in the course of a few years, scarcely a
settler remained and the partially improved, abandoned farms and homes told
a sad story of blighted hopes and tragic failure. It was the successors of these
people that have made the Sunnyside country the equal of any in the West in
the value and quantity of its production.
The Selah Valley Canal is another of the early irrigation enterprises whose
vicissitudes were many but all of which were overcome in the course of time
by those who profited by the costly experience of its original promoters. It
was conceived and carried out ten years before its time by John A. Stone, w ith
the financial assistance of Allen C. JNIason.
Stone was in every sense a Western product. A strong man physically,
full of energy and resources, he lacked stability and moral fibre and this in
spite of the fact that he was intensely religious and believed the Bible from
cover to cover. His faith was unquestioning and that was to him all sufficient.
It did not ser\'e him as a moral guide nor as a restraint to the freedom of his
actions. He had little book learning but his wits had been sharpened in the
school of experience and by contact with specific situations and he possessed
the faculty of putting to eft'ective use the knowledge thus acquired. He was
generous to a fault and would give his last dollar to a friend and as is often
the case the day came when he no longer had a dollar to give.
To finish the Canal he exhausted his every financial resource and after the
failure of the enterprise it was with difficulty that he raised sufficient money to
go to Alaska in the vain efl:'ort to retrieve his fallen fortunes.
The development of the country, however, in spite of the reverses of the
men engaged in it went on apace and was reflected in the growth of the town,
and the village has long since ceased to be.
Today the city of Yakima and the A'alley; of the Yakima in the fullness
of their development are the realization of the hopes and aspirations of those
men who toiled and struggled in the da}-s of long ago, the days that have so
swiftly and silently passed away.
THE women's clubs
One of the most potent influences for culture and progress in the history
of Yakima has been the women's clubs. We count ourselves fortunate indeed
to be able to present here a sketch of these organizations, together with some
pioneer remembrances, from one who is eminently qualified to give such a view,
Mrs. A. E. Larson.
PIONEERS
Of the sacrifices of the pioneer women many interesting "earlv dav" stories
HISTORY OF YAKBIA A'ALLEY 899
are told by the siir\iving few, of liovv they braved the hardships and kept faith
alive in their hearts, looking toward the great future. The community spirit
linked together, as neighbors, the people of Yakima — disregarded distances and
the mode of traveling, which in the very early days was a lumber wagon or an
Indian pony.
Nurses were unknown and doctors were not to be obtained. The good
pioneer women cared for the sick and needy. The roads were never too rough
nor the weather too cold for them to respond if there was sickness or trouble
in one of the families. And when conditions prompted it, food was shared
among the pioneers as willingly as were their joys and their sorrows.
The spirit of comradeship prevailing in the community was conducive of
happy times in "get together" meetings : chief among them was the all-day
"quilting bee" joined by the men folk in the evening for supper and later in
the evening indulging in a "corn popping" and a "taffy pull." Then there was
each year the community Christmas tree in the schoolhouse followed by a dance
and supper : singing schools and spelling schools were very popular during the
W'inter months.
In the Summer time, on a Sunday, a very attractive diversion was a horse-
back ride to see Airs. Lauber's flower garden. Mrs. Lauber lived in the suburbs
of what is now known as Union Gap, and was noted for her wonderful flov.'er-
garden. Her friends, all citizens were friends in those days, would come, often
as far as fifty miles, to get a little sprig, cutting, or some seeds of those choice
flowers. The seeds were sent to Mrs. Lauber from a friend in the east, and out
of this fact grew the dandelion story.
A story is told, relating the origin of the dandelion in the Yakima Valley,
thusly — Visitors viewing the flower-garden of Mrs. Lauber, who was unaware
of the nature of the dandelion, admired very much the soft little yellow blos-
soms and invariably carried away a few seeds or small plants which were lov-
ingly and carefully planted in their own front yards, to be divided the next
year as they grew and waxed strong, with the neighbors who had not vet pro-
cured them. The sun shone, the floods came, and the winds blew, and the
precious little seeds were scattered on Yakima soil.
With the coming of the railroad in 1885 and the building of the citv, the
people of Yakima stood on the threshold of a new era, and new ideals actuated
the minds of the women toward a broader education, self culture, and higher
standards in social conditions. The study club idea grew and culminated in
the organization of six clubs in the city of Yakima. Following is a short
sketch of each presented by the club :
THE WOM.\x's CLUB, YAKIMA
The Woman's Club of Yakima was organized March 7, 1894, through the
efforts of Mrs. Susanna E. Steinweg, at whose home a group of women gath-
ered socially, planned a future meeting, which convened at the home of Airs.
Edward Whitson, on the date given above, and organized the club. I'pon the
adoption of a constitution, twenty-five women signed the roll as charter mem-
bers. The membership, at first limited to twenty-five, was later increased to
900 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
fifty, and finally to one hundred and ten. Although the club was formed origi-
nally for social and intellectual culture, it was from the first ready to cooperate
with kindred forces, and when, in 1896, the Washington State Federation of
Women's Clubs was formed, the Woman's Club of Yakima became a charter
member, sending as its representative, Mrs. J. M. Gilbert, one of its charter
members.
In the early years, the club purchased the books needed for its study, which
was along the line of literature, history, and art, with discussions of practical
questions and current events, and these books helped form the nucleus of a
public library, also founded by Mrs. Susanna E. Steinweg. Besides books and
magazines, the club gave two hundred dollars to the library. For many years
a member of the club has served as a member of the library board. Thus,
almost from the beginning, the club formed for study and self-improvement
widened its interests to include the good of the community, and when in 1908,
the acquirement of property in the way of real estate required by-laws which
should govern the club, it became a corporation by the adoption of those by-law\s
in 1909.
The objects of the corporation were stated to be the promotion of stand-
ards of social and intellectual culture among its members, and the community
in general, along literary, social, intellectual and civic lines. The work the
club has done in assisting the local Young Women's Christian Association, the
Educational Loan Fund of the Federation, its initiative in calling a health com-
mittee of the Federated City Clubs, which, in conjunction with representatives
from the medical society and other organizations, accomplished a marvelous
improvement in sanitary and health conditions in Yakima — all show that its
interest is in the life of the community and that it is a force in molding public
opinion.
In 1913, the Woman's Club became to an extent departmental by organizing
classes for study.
In 1917, the Woman'.s Club acquired a club house, by purchasing a suitable
building, formerly a church, for club uses.
When the demands made by the World War reached the Yakima Chapter
of the Red Cross, the Woman's Club gave time, financial aid, and encourage-
ment to the work. For two years past, half of its meetings have been given
entirely to Red Cross work and from its ranks several have been chosen as
leaders in the patriotic work demanded by the times. It has also aifled the
patriotic work of the state and nation.
MUSICAL cr.uB
The Ladies' Musical Club, one of the oldest of the women's clubs of
Yakima, was organized in the year 1898, the outgrowth of a choral society,
which had been meeting under the direction of George Vance. The most
prominent w'omen of the city were the charter members, among whom were
Mrs. Edward Whitson, Mrs.' Frank Horsley, Mrs. H. M. Gilbert^, ]\[rs. H. M.
P.artlett, Mrs. Guy L. McRichards, Mrs. Slemmons, Mrs. O. A. Fechter, Mrs.
A. B. Dow and Mrs. Verdie Erwin.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 901
The club was organized with the same ideals, those for promoting the best
in music for its members as well as for the community, as it holds today, in its
twentieth year. Meetings were held twice a month, at first in the homes, and
later in the club houses. Choral singing has always held a prominent place on
the club programs, and among its many members during the years, there have
been many very fine soloists, singers, and pianists, the product of the world's
finest teachers. As an organization it has been an iniluential and progressive
asset to the city, bringing gifted musicians as soloists, and giving programs of
such worth as to attract a large following.
TWENTIETH CENTURY CLUB
In the year 1900, there was organized in the city of Yakima the Twentieth
Century Club, the second study club to be organized in this growing little inland
city of the Northwest. It began its existence with a membership of fourteen.
Mrs. Mary Blanker served as the first president. The club grew in member-
ship and at the present time has seventy-five members, with the husbands as
social members.
Originally organized for self culture, it soon broadened its horizon and
in 1904 initiated the civic movement in this city, assuming as its maiden efifort
the beautifying of the High School grounds, which at that time occupied the
site of the present Lincoln Ward School building.
In all movements for the betterment of the community life, this club has
been a coworker, and its initiative in forming the art committee has brought
lasting results. The first food inspector. Mrs. Olive Kurtz, whose work has
been particularly efifective, is a member of this club.
In the Lincoln School building hangs a reproduction of a Corot master-
piece, and in the Public Librarv is a marble bust, Dante's Beatrice, gifts of
this club.
At the time of the organization of the Young ^Woman's Christian Associa-
tion and the Young Men's Christian Association, the Twentieth Century Club
contributed in a verv substantial manner. At present six of its members are
active members of the governing board of the Young Women's Christian Asso-
ciation.
The Twentieth Century Club is on the "Founders Roll" of the State Fed-
eration Endowment Fund, having contributed one hundred dollars to the fund.
The war, with its varied activities, brought a greater vision of service to
its members, as they did all phases of war work from driving a motor to making
four minute speeches. Also, adopted a war orjihan.
With the dawn of peace, the club is active in the reconstruction work.
On June 9, 1903, twelve women met and formed a class for the study uf
Parliamentary Law and the following Seiitemlier the little class was organ-
ized into a club to be called the Portia Club with a two-fold object, the study
of Parliamentary Law and civic betterment. Alembershi]) was unlimited.
The Portia Club has taken its place with the other clubs of the city in con-
902 HISTORY OF YAKBIA A'ALLEY
trilniting to the various funds for welfare work, and has many achievements
to its credit of its own individual efforts. Tree iilanting was made a distinc-
tive feature and fifty-six shade trees were planted by the club around the high
school grounds, and many given to other public grounds. The planting of
trees was promoted by the club throughout the county, and a member of this
club planted a mile of trees along the Lincoln Highway.
An annual "clean-up-day" was proclaimed by the mayor of the city at the
request of the Portia Club. Out of the civic convention called by the club, grew
the Yakima Valley District Federation, and the public play grounds situated on
Seventh Avenue were equipped and presented to the city by the club.
In the World War, 1917-1918, the Portia Club has been 100 per cent, loyal
in every call of the Government, and has adopted a war orphan.
Thus the story of the Portia Club is that it has expanded from a little class
for the study of Parliamentary Law into a large club of far reaching interests.
HOME ECONOMICS CLCB
The Home Economics Club of Yakima was organized November 9, 1911,
under the name of the K. K. Club with eight charter members. At first it was
a Kensington with short literary jjrograms but in a few months the programs
were changed to home economics entirely. The membership was gradually in-
creased until there were thirty-five and the meetings were held at the domestic
science room of a school building which would only accommodate that num-
ber. The club joined the State Federation of Women's Clubs May 12, 1912.
and the name was soon changed to the Home Economics Club.
The programs consisted of papers, discussions and demonstrations. Each
year's program contained one meeting on sewing or textiles and another on
apples. Since the beginning of the war, the apple day was changed to include
beans and potatoes and was a public demonstration. Also, all the meetings
were entirely on war conservation and were altered to meet each new war
measure or need. INIuch time has been devoted to Red Cross and all the war
organizations.
One year the clul> brought Miss Sutherland, our state leader of home
demonstration work, for daily demonstrations for one week. The meetings
were held at the Young ]\Ien's Christian Association and were all well at-
tended. The club has always responded to all calls for any help along its line
of activity, though most of the members have small children and man\' home
duties. Much aid was given to the caring for soldiers' hospitals under the
aus|)ices of the National League for Women's Service.
THE COTERIE CEUB
The Coterie Club with a membership of twenty-five, the smallest federated
club in ^'akima, was organized February 12, 1903, federated April 2S. 1914.
The jiersonnel of this club has changed from year to year until but two or
three charter members remain.
The Coterie Club, as the name indicates, is "A circle of familiar friends."
Its object, according to its constitution, is "intellectual and social culture."
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 903
Its programs embrace a study of present day conditions as well as litera-
ture past and present.
As a club it always responds generously and faithfully to public needs. The
Young Women's Christian Association scholarship and endowment funds are
among its annual benefactions. Its most unic[ue feature has been for several
years past, the "^Mothering" of the AIcKinley School, giving timely gifts to
help pay for a phonograph, etc., and by giving little annual picnics to its teachers.
The Coterie Club is strongly patriotic. Its latest enterprise has been the
adoption of a war orphan.
ART COMMITTEE
Cooperation is the keynote of success as a valuable asset to the city. Some
most worthwhile public activities have been perpetuated through federated com-
mittees, particularly those of art and health.
The Art Committee was formed to further the interest of art in the city.
The attention of the members was first directed toward needed civic improve-
ment ; as a result of an improvement contest, a hundred new parking strips
were planted, and splendid results toward a cleaner city came from offering
prizes for the best collection of local views by amateur photographers, both
beautiful and unsightly scenes, which prompted the cleaning up of many back
yards.
The Committee, by obtaining an expression from the various organizations,
brought about the adoption of an official flower, a red rose (Gruss an Teplitz)
was chosen. An annual "City Beatitiful" ball was given to finance the work of
the Committee. jNIany thousand rose plants were planted on the school yards
and other public grounds. Many were also given to families who agreed to
grow them, but could not afford to buy them. The Art Committee for many
years fostered the Children's School Gardens, holding an annual exhibit in
September.
The chairman of the Art Committee organized a Rose Society in 1914
with one hundred members, promoting the growing of roses, with an annual
June Rose Show. The Art Committee has secured a number of collections of
pictures for exhibition in Yakima, and five school buildings and the Public
Library have each been presented with a picture by a noted artist.
The ambition of the Art Committee for the future is to establish and equip
a public art gallery and several hundred dollars worth of Liberty Bonds is the
nucleus toward the fulfilment of this aim.
The Federated Health Committee is credited with many worthwhile en-
deavors in cooperation with the public health officials, but that which stands
out in the annals of club history, is the securing of a woman food inspector,
Mrs. Olive Kurtz, who as the municipal housekeeper brought public eating places
and markets to a state of cleanliness not excelled by any citv in the L'nited
States, according to the statement of a National food inspector.
Y.\KIM.\ V.\LLEY DISTRICT FEDER.XTIOX
A number of Yakima club women have been selected to fill prominent and
responsible positions in the state. :Mrs. T. C. Gawler has the distinction of
904 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
National honor. She was appointed chairman of the home economics depart-
ment in the General Federation of Women's Clubs, by the president, Mrs. Percy
V. Pennybacker, in 1916.
Mrs. Wallis Williams was elected in 1916 as a member of the State Legis-
lature, and her influence for good has been felt throughout the Northwest.
Miss Sue Lombard, who is now Mrs. Frank Horsley, was in 1905 elected
president of the State Federation, and was in 1915 appointed by Governor Lister
a member of the Board of Regents of the State Normal at Ellensburg, and is
serving in that capacity at the present time.
Mrs. W. W. Robertson and Mrs. A. C. Davis have each served a term of
two years as recording secretary in the State Federation. Mrs. I. H. Dills was
elected to the ofifice of corresponding secretary in 1905. At an earlier date !Mrs.
Nona Snyder served as auditor. In 1913 Mrs. A. E. Larson was elected a mem-
ber of the Board of the State Federation as first trustee and had charge of the
campaign, during her term of office, to raise the $13,000 endowment fund which
was created at the time of her election.
The late Mrs. Granville Ross Pike made a lasting name for herself by her
loving interest in our "Feathered Friends." She traveled over the state organ-
izing "Bird Clubs" among the boys and girls. Mrs. Pike was for a number of
years consenation chairman of the State Federation and held that position at
the time of her demise last August.
It will not be possible to mention all of the Y'akima women who were ap-
pointed on standing committees in the State Federation of Women's Clubs, but
they include Mrs. Olive Kurtz as chairman of food sanitation ; Mrs. Edna
Haines and Mrs. A. J. Splawn in the historical department ; Mrs. Lucy Ellis
on the press, and Miss Frances Townsen on the Art Committee. Yakima clul)
women have entertained the State Federation twice, in 1000 and 1917.
The club spirit permeates the atmosphere of the entire valley. In 1911
the "Yakima Valley District Federation" was organized, with Mrs. J. M. Perry
as president : ^Irs. E. B. Williamson, of Prosser, served as the second efficient
leader and Mrs. F. M. Hornby of Grandview, was third president and at present
holds that ofifice.
The organization is composed of twenty-seven clubs covering a radius of a
hundred and fifty miles. In each town and in many of the rural districts there
are one or more women's clubs, varying in membership from fifteen to one
hundred.
Sunnyside and Prosser each possesses a Departmental Club of si.xty members.
The Sunnyside "Woman's Club" has the lionnr of having provided a state
president, Mrs. R. C. McCredie. who at the present time holds the office of
director in the General Federation of Women's Clubs, and was appointed in
1913 by Governor Lister on the State Board of Health.
Mrs. O. K. Williamson of the Prosser "Woman's Club" served two vears
as vice president of the State Federation and was elected recording secretarv
of this organization at the convention last June. Mrs. Williamson is also a
member of the State Librar\- Board, appointed by Governor Lister in lOln.
Ellensburg has five active cluljs which have formed a Citv Federation that
Cgurlesy o( L. V. ilcWliorter
MOXUMf:NT ERECTED BY THE YAKIMA INDIANS AND THEIR FRIENDS, AT
UNION GAP; WHERE THE TRIBESMEN MADE THEIR LAST STAND AGAINST
THE GOVERNMENT TROOPS, NOV. 9, 1855
t.Hirti-sy of L.. V. Mc\MiCirtcr
MONUMENT ERECTED BY THK D. A. R. AT UNION (iAl
THE VICTORY WON THKRK BY THE U. S. TROOPS
NOVEMBER 9, 1855
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 905
has also contributed a number of officers to the State Federation, including Mrs.
H. S. Elwood as president and Mrs. David Murray, treasurer.
Open conventions of the Yakima Valley District Federation are held semi-
annually. A splendid cooperative spirit prevails. It is an impossibility to reckon
the influence radiating from these inspirational gatherings as the club women
exchange ideas, in the spirit of love, for the welfare of humanity, for the gen-
eral good, and the common interest which exists in this particular section.
mothers' congress
\'aluable organizations other than the so-called "Women's Clubs" were
formed from time to time. In 1912 the Mother's Congress was organized in
Yakima, with Mrs. Mary Blanker as president. This organization is devoted
to child welfare and organizing Parent-Teachers Associations. Much has been
accomplished in bringing the schools and the' homes in closer relationship and
raising the standards of home life.
Mrs. A. C. \'arney has been a faithful worker in this organization, assist-
ing Mrs. R. C. Nichols, county school superintendent, in organizing Parent-
Teachers Associations. Mrs. \^arney was elected in 1918 president of the state
organization of the Mothers' Congress.
D.\rGIlTKRS OF .\MERJCAN REVOLUTION
The Xarcissa Whitman Chapter. Daughters of The American Revolution,
was organized in "S'akima, Washington, June 19. 1909. with twenty-one members.
The objects of this chapter are : "To foster patriotism and to perpetuate
the memory of those who achieved American Independence.''
"To assist in preserving the records pertaining to the services of the
pioneers of the state of Washington."
In order to help create an interest in the study of United States history,
the chapter has each year given a prize to the High School student of the
graduating class who has attained the highest average in this subject.
The chapter has also contributed each year to the support of the Martha
Berry School.
One of the most important things the chapter has done was to mark, with
a granite boulder, properly inscribed, the site of the last battle which took place
between the Indians and the whites. This spot is known as "Pahoticute" or
"Two Battles."
When war came upon us the chapter took a very prominent part in war
work, under the direction of Mrs. C. E. Udell, regent. "Housewives" were
n^ade and furnished to hundreds of soldiers, great numbers of sweaters, socks,
wristlets, helmets, and scarfs were knitted and given to the men in the service.
Every member has given unsparingly of her time and means to the sup-
port of the Red Cross; to the work of the Council of Defen.se, and as Minute
Women.
"America and Americanism" has become the slogan of this chapter. It
can truthfully be said that Narcissa Whitman Chapter, Daughters of The Ameri-
can Revolution, has not been found wanting in this critical hour.
906 HISTORY OF YAKDIA VALLEY
\TIOXAL ORDER
Public Educational ( )rder, while not a club, is a \voman"s organization, a
sisterhood, wherebv the members are bound l)y lasting ties to a work for gen-
eral improvement, for individual growth in charity, and for mental and moral
culture. Springing from a group of seven college girls who organized them-
selves into the first Public Educational Order Chapter, Public Educational Order
has become almost nation wide, chapters being organized in almost all the states
of the Union.
Public Educational Order's work is essentially for women and for that
purpose an educational fund has been established, and maintained by the chap-
ters of the sisterhood, to assist worthy young women to higher education with
a view to self support. Since the establishing of this fund in 1907. up to 1917.
260 young women have received help from it.
When a P. E. O. finds herself in a new town with a population of at least
one thousand, and no P. E. O. Chapter, she usually does not feel quite at home
until she has formed a chapter in that town. Such was the history of Chapter
P., of Yakima.
Three P. E. O.'s who had come from other towns gathered around them
six friends and in May, 1908, organized Chapter P. The nine charter members
were: Mrs. Evangeline Howick, Mrs. Etta Clausen, Mrs. Minnie Lucas, ?^Irs.
3\Iaude W'eisberger, Mrs. Charlotte Raymond, ]\Irs. May Roberts, Mrs. Alberta
Udell. Mrs. Jessamine \'an Amberg and Mrs. Agnes Joyce. The chapter now
numbers fifty-one. The local work, aside from the intellectual and social, has
consisted of work for the poor, support of the local and national Young \Vomen's
Christian Association, war work, purchasing of Liberty Bonds. Just at present
the chapter is uniting with all the \\'ashington chapters in a special war work
assigned to them, the furnishing of extensive comfort bags for the refugee
women of France and Belgium.
During the period of the perilous war times, the Yakima women proved
themselves to be "good soldiers." Their hearts were tested as never before,
and individually and collectively through the clubs and other organizations they
responded to the call with the spirit of true patriotism.
Every phase of Red Cross work was faithfully pursued ; indeed, the women
of the valley are few in number who do not deserve honorable mention for their
invaluable service. Those giving untiring efforts as leaders include : ]\Irs. \V.
L. Lemon and Mrs. Halsey W^atson, as secretaries : JMrs. Jessie Gamble ai\d
]\Irs. R. C. Sinclair in charge of the work-room; Mrs. G. J. Listman, the Jumble
Shop, and ^Irs. Ed \'an Brunt at the head of the canteen work: and every train
was met by two or more members of her coterie of splendid women, wdio pre-
sented the soldier boys passing through with a basket of luscious Yakima fruit.
Another equally patriotic organization is the Woman's Committee of the
Council of Xational Defense. State Chairman Mrs. J. S. McKee appointed
j\Irs. Frank Llorsley county chairman for Yakima. She -resigned on account
of illness and Mrs. A. E. Larson was appointed to take her place and organized
HISTORY OF YAKI^IA VALLEY 907
the -Minute Service Women, to mal<e the house to house canvass carrying the
Government messages. The Minute Women number three hundred and fifty
and every home in the entire county is reached on short notice. This organiza-
tion had charge of the woman's work in all campaigns. In the Fourth Liberty
Loan the women sold more than a half million dollars worth of bonds.
JMrs. O. K. Williamson of Prosser was appointed chairman of the Woman's
Committee of the County Council of Defense for Benton County and Mrs. L.
Baker was appointed for Kittitas County. Each of the counties has a complete
organization of Minute ^^'omen. ]\Irs. R. C. McCredie of Sunnyside is the
district chairman, which covers four counties including with the above men-
tioned Klickitat County.
Whether as individuals or "club women," since the arrival of the first
pioneer settlers, the women have been co-partners with the men in shaping
•the destiny of the beautiful inland valley of Yakima, not only doing in a spirit
of unselfish love that which was at hand to do, but reaching out with a broader
vision of duty, realizing that the ideals of the state and nation are in the hands
of the mothers of the land.
THE ni'ILDING OF SUNNYSIDE
In our progress down the \"alley we reach a town of somewhat unique
history and interest. This is Sunnyside. The founder and chief organizer of
the activities of this interesting and important place is still a resident of it, S.
J. Harrison, and he has kindly prepared a short sketch of the history of the
place.
TOWN BUILDING
Xorthern Illinois began to be settled about 1850. Eighty-acre tracts in
the heart of Chicago were then for sale at $25 to $50 per acre. At that time
and for several years later "Government land" all over the "corn belt" begged
for takers at $L25 per acre. These lands with improvements now sell for .'^=200
to $300 per acre. The wife of the writer was a daughter of one of these pio-
neers. From these "first settlers" we received first hand information regard-
ing the development of this then new country.
One thing that stood out prominently in these early settlements was the
attention given to religion. With the first colonists was the preacher. Aleet-
ings were held in houses and barns and then in the little red schoolhouse for
years until "meeting houses" were built. What the places of meeting lacked
in comfort and convenience was more than made up in the warmth of devo-
tion and fellowship.
The value of lands aside from the f|uality of soil and cost of operating was
measured definitely by distance from town.
With the knowledge of the rise in value of farm lands in the "corn belt,"
the principles that controlled in their development, I began to investigate the
thinly populated districts of the ^^'est and South in the hope of finding a local-
ity where soil and climatic conditions were good. Several trips South and
West were made in quest of such a location. The result was the choice of the
Sunnyside district, Yakima Valley, Washington. Sage brush land with a water
908 HISTORY OF YAKOIA VALLEY
right was then ( 1898) selHng at $30 per acre in five equal annual installments,
six per cent, annual interest.
In order to control the moral influences of the community we decided that
it would be necessary to purchase the townsite of Sunnyside.
\\'hen we were considering the locating of a colony we had no idea of
town building, but with our ears to the ground it was soon evident that as the
town went so the country would be. The hotels, banks and leading business
firms have, much more to do in establishing moral standards than the agencies
giving exclusive attention to those cjuestions.
At tlie time we acquired the townsite of Sunnyside the state was univer-
sally "wet." The first and principal business in towns of all sizes was the
saloon and card table. This was most obnoxious to the class of people we were
laboring to colonize. We therefore decided to sell no lots in Sunnyside with-
out a clause in the conveyance prohibiting the sale and manufacture of intoxi-
cants, the carrying on of gambling, or prostitution : also another clause not
allowing owner to permit his lots to grow up to weeds. These restrictions
attracted the kind of people we sought to locate. Although we had no railroad,
business developed at a very rapid rate. Lots sold at higher prices than were
obtained in surrounding "open" towns that had railroad accommodations.
The religious interests were taken care of as a matter of business just as
they were in the American Army in the Great War with Germany. When the
aggregate of church members did not exceed 125 an organization known as
the "Federated Church" was effected. It embraced in its membership Baptists,
Brethren, Christians, Congregationalists, Methodists and Presbyterians. It was
agreed in the organization that each denomination should have such part of
the Sunday services as its contribution was part of the whole amount received.
This encouraged all the members of each denomination to be liberal in their
subscriptions. It was further agreed that after five years any one of the de-
nominations desiring to withdraw could do so b}- submitting a price which it
was willing to give or take for the property and the others should within sixty
days give answer as to whether they would buy or sell, and seller was to receive
such percentage of its investment as the price stipulated was of the cost of the
property. After six years of harmonious and successful cooperation the Metho-
dists decided to withdraw and submitted a price which the Brethren, Congrega-
tionalists and Presbyterians decided to accept. The Baptists and Christians also
decided to w^ithdraw at the same time. The Federation of the Brethren. Con-
gregationalists and Presbyterians continued three years longer. The Brethren
and Presbyterians had pastors that did not approve of the Federation, and
obtained sufficient sujiport in their congregations to decide to separate. The
Brethren purchased the "Federated" church building and the Congregationalists
and Presbyterians each built commodious houses.
After the separation denominational lines were tightlv drawn and tlie
ri\alry and acrimony associated with competition took the place of the pre-
vious harmony and cooperation. The town now laments "too many churches,"
too great a burden to give all proper support. Although there are now twelve
I'laces of regular worship it is very seldom at the evening service that the
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 909
original Federated church would not accommodate more than all of the people
that attend all of the churches.
As a community influence the Federated organization was a controlling
factor. Everything it supported was put over successfully. People not in sym-
pathy with church standards complained that the church dominated and con-
trolled everything, which of course was true. On account of this Sunnyside
was nicknamed "The Holy City."
While religion was given first place in importance to the town building it
was a good ally in material ways. Sunnyside has led in schoolhouse building
and curriculum, substantial business blocks, street and road fmprovemtfcit, and
in irrigation and drainage development.
Stephen J- Harrison.
One of the best known among the early builders in the lower Valley has
been named in an earlier chapter as the first teacher in Prosser. This is Mrs.
Emma Cobb Warnecke. Not only as the first teacher, but as one of the genu-
ine builders of the early community, this woman, still in vigorous health, a
blessing to her neighbors and full of good works, has kindly prepared a sketch
which we take pleasure in introducing here.
OLD TIMES IN THE Y.VKIMA VALLEY
I became interested in the Yakima \'alley in 1883, while living in Pendle-
ton, Oregon. Hearing so much about it, we decided to go there and locate.
I lived with my sister, Mrs. G. W. Wilgus and family, at that time. We left
Pendleton the 7th of September, by wagon, for the Yakima Valley, and crossed
the Columbia River at Wallula. The ferryman told us a great many people
were going to the Yakima country. We followed an old trail up the Columbia
River, passed a surveyor's tent near where Kennewick now stands, and struck
the Yakima River at the Rosencrantz ranch. We passed a small railroad camp
where Kiona was afterward built and followed the river up to where Prosser
now stands. As we came near we could hear the noise of the Falls. Not
having heard of the Falls we could not imagine what the noise could be. They
made a great deal more noise then than they do now.
We passed a house with a family living in it. Afterwards we learned it
was Colonel Prosser's homestead and that the family had been there but a
few days. We went up the river a short distance and camped. As soon as
we had camped I went to have a look at the Falls. Also stopped at the house
and met Colonel and Mrs. Prosser.
During the night our horses wandered off and went over the hill into Horse
Heaven. When Mr. Wilgus came back from getting them he gave such a
glowing description of the land over the hill that we decided to locate there.
We stopped at James Kinney's homestead just west on the river from Colonel
Prosser's and stayed several days, finding out what we could about the country.
Then we went to Yakima to file. A man by the name of Haines went
with us. We went on the Reservation side of the river. About one-half wav
to Yakima City some squaws had a lunch counter. The men took lunch but
I was not hungry. We got into Yakima City about nine o'clock. In the morn-
910 HISTORY OF YAKI^NIA VALLEY
ing we went to the land office and filed on land, G. W. Wilgus taking land on
the Yakima River where he now lives and Mr. Haines and myself taking land
in Horse Heaven. James Kinney claimed the honor of naming it Horse Heaven.
Michael Ward and his daughter, Agnes, now Mrs. Pengruber, filed on
land near here during the Summer but did not come here to live until late in
the Fall. A mail route was started between Yakima City and Ainsworth aliout
three weeks before we came into the valley.
RETURN TO TENDLETOX
In October I went back to Pendleton, having a three months school to
teach near there. I paid $5.00 to ride on the stage from Prosser to Ainsworth.
Said stage was a big lumber wagon with sideboards. Myself and grip and a
very thin mail sack was all the passengers and baggage he carried.
I came back to Yakima Falls the last of January, 1884, and there I found
a big change all along the valley ; but the greatest improvement was at Yakima
Falls. It looked like quite a town in comparison to what it was when I left
three months before. One lone house stood there then. Now there were stores,
saloons, a restaurant, and a hotel being Iniilt, besirles several dwelling houses
and numerous tents.
j\lr. Carpenter had built a boat on the river, and was boatman for all who
wished to cross the Yakima at this place. When my brother-in-law moved upon
his homestead, he fastened three railroad ties together and ferried his family
and household goods across. When they took teams or stock across they went
up the river to Rocky Ford and crossed over.
James Kinney tried to start a town on his homestead. A few resident
buildings were put up. a saloon or two and a store building, but the store was
never opened. Most of the buildings were put up near Colonel Prosser's home.
In March a meeting was called to xote on the location of a schoolhouse.
There was some rivalry between the two settlements as to where the school
election was to be held, but as Kinney ville {as they called it) had a vacant
house, it was decided to hold it there: The location selected was near where
the Riverview schoolhouse now stands. Our school precinct was first called
"Lone Tree," afterward changed to No. 16.
L'ntil now we had no mail service, only as the mail carrier brought it from
Yakima City. He charged ten cents per letter. Few papers were brought in.
r)ur postoffice was Prosser (the name sent in was Prosser Falls) and Mrs.
Prosser was the fir-^t postmistress, dilbert Chamberlain was deputy postmaster
and ran the postofifice.
Work on the Northern Pacific Railroad was being pushed along at a lively
rate, and people began settling, or more correctly, squatting in Prosser. No
town had been sun'eyed or platted yet.
A FERRY BO.^T
In April Nelson Rich put in a ferry boat for the accommodation of the
]niljlic. About this time Henry Creason, a blacksmith, moved into Prosser and
put up a blacksmith shop. It burned down in tlie b'all InU he rel)uilt immcdi-
HISTORY OF YAKDIA VALLEY 911
ately. A feed yard and corral were put up about this time by H. Jenks and
C. Hooper.
In Alay i\Irs. Nelson Rich asked me to start a private school. She would
furnish the room and all necessar\' furniture. But before we had thint;s ar-
ranged to our mutual satisfaction word was received informing us that if a
schoolhouse was built public school money would pay the teacher. The com-
munity decided to build a schoolhouse. Deciding and doing have the same
meaning when women like Mrs. Rich and Mrs. Prosser are the leaders. The
lumber had to be hauled thirty-five miles from the Bickleton sawmills, and not
very good roads. But men and teams were found who donated the hauling.
Carpenter work was mostly donated too. Some money was collected but most
of the funds came from a dance the ladies gave, the first entertainment ever
given in Prosser. In June the schoolhouse was completed and a three month
school started with Miss Emma Cobb (Mrs. Warnecke) as teacher. Nelson Rich
was the first school director. There were twenty pupils enrolled during the term.
About one-half were transient, some coming but a few days.
Prosser celebrated on July 4, 1884. A good sized crowd from the railroad
camps attended. A platform for dancing was erected and all seemed to have
a good time.
In August I went to Yakima City to attend the teachers' examination and
while there was married to Fred Warneke, a rancher in Horse Heaven.
The railroad was completed to Prosser in the Fall. The depot was built
and an agent sent here. The first agent was Mr. French. Late in the Fall
Colonel Prosser had his homestead laid out in town lots and people began to
build near the depot. Prosser was now a real town.
In the Fall I was hired by Mr. Chamberlin, one of the directors, to teach
a five months term of school beginning the first of November. About the 20th
of December we had a very heavy fall of snow, fifteen inches on the level
prairie after it had settled. The first death occurred just after the holidays.
A section man on the railroad was found dead in his bed one nioming.
About this time a small tract of land south of Colonel Prosser's townsite,
was proved upon and sold to a number of local men who platted it out in town
lots. It was called Rich's Addition to Prosser,
The first county commissioner from Prosser was Ira Van Antwerp. In
the Spring of 1885 all the buildings except Colonel Prosser's home, were moved
into town, and Prosser took her proper place on the map.
Old times in Prosser, these words recall to my mind memories of old
friends and associates long forgotten. Few are left to remind one of old days.
Some have drifted away and have been forgotten, others come hack now and
then and are seen on the streets, looking as familiar as of old. But the greater
part have taken the trail to the Great Beyond, the trail we all must take.
Mrs. Emma Corr \A'arxekk, Prosser, Washington, R. No. 1.
Each location has its peculiar interest or charm. We have spoken in the
chapter preceding this of some of the distinctive features of Kennewick. As
this place appeared in its wildness of thirty-five years ago is vividly told for
us in the next selection, by Mrs. Daisy Beach Emigh, the "first girl in Kennc-
912 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
wick." now residing in Spokane. Rare literary ability enables Mrs. Emigh to
impart a peculiar charm to what had indeed a frontier charm in the old days.
RECOLLECTIONS OF KENNEWICK
Having spent my first years in the two largest cities of the Pacific Coast
of that time, San Francisco and Portland, the announcement of my mother one
Spring morning in 1882, that we would go to Ainsworth for a time, was re-
ceived with great joy.
Father was a millwright by trade, and had gone to work in a saw mill that
was being built on the Columbia River near, or rather in the town of Ains-
worth. Looking over the deserted site of this pioneer railroad town recently,
it was difficult to realize that once it was the scene of so much activity ; that
once it was the important town. — the only town of a large section of eastern
Washington.
Father had built a little house near the mill and near the river — too near
the river, for high water occupied it before we did. However, we moved in
in the early Summer, expecting to return to Portland in a few months — the
change being in the nature of an outing.
The great Columbia was our chief source of pleasure, and while we chil-
dren boated, fished and waded daily, our big times were the days when father
was free to take us in a row boat, on a picnic. One of our first boat rides was
to the site of Kennewick, the party consisting only of our family, laden with
the all-important lunch basket and off for a good time.
Starting from hotne early one morning, we rode up the river past the P>ig
Island where there was a really truly Indian village. Here, later, occurred the
big wedding and dance of the chiefs daughter. We were among those invited
to the dance and I shall never forget the sight nor the sounds perceived while
standing at the end of a long tent near those noisy musical ( ?) instruments.
The Big Island was beautiful with wild begonias, as well as alluring with
its Indians on that Summer morning, but only a brief stop was made. Across
the river and on up the stream we went till we came to one of the very few
clumps of willow and cottonwoods to be found on the banks of the river, for
the "Old Oregon" is a barren banked stream in this section, in keeping with
its desert environment.
Here at the willows, we landed, ate our lunch and then explored farther
on. Just above, where the dock now stands, was such a prettv green place, so
rare in those day.s — not green grass but a weed, somewhat like alfalfa. Then
we came to what we always called the Little Island covered with wild rose and
currant bushes. This little island was the scene of many of our good times
and picnics of the early days. Extreme high water has so changed it that its
original attractiveness is not appreciable. As we walked back from the river
what a different sight met our gaze than one beholds today!
SAGEBRUSH EVERYWHERE
We saw the desert primeval. — not yet touched bv the hand of man. Acres
and acres, miles and miles! Such a wide, wide horizon, broken bv the rather
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 913
level hill on the south, Rattlesnake in the west and a faint outline of the Blue
^fountains in the east. The gray lines of the sagebrush were everywhere. And
such a stillness over all ! A stillness broken only by the chirp of the cricket,
and the beautiful but brief song of the meadow lark, and in the evening by the
lonely hoot of the owl and the howl of the coyote.
The vastness especially impressed us children, accustomed only to the town
with its buildings close together, and its narrowed horizon further emphasized
by trees bordering the streets.
But even more than the broad expanse, did the freedom appeal to us. While
it was really only a desert, to us children it was one vast playground — the wind-
blown sand surpassing any sand-box, wonderful wild flowers in abundance that
we might gather and arrange as we pleased, wild rabbits to chase and above
all the delights of the river.
On later picnics, we visited Doc. Livingston, whom we first met at the
mill where he, too, worked. Perhaps he was one who preferred to live apart.
Howbeit, he built a little house here, the first in Kennewick and took up his
lonely abode. Here he dispensed hospitality, or sold of his food supply to the
cowboy or occasional passerby. Even at that early date, a few stockmen were
living farther up the river and drove down along its banks to the ferry and
Ains worth. Well do I remember the generous slices of bread, thickly spread
with the coarsest of brown sugar and moistened with water, with which Doc
treated us children. Such were my first visits to Kennewick.
Summer waned ; Winter came and our outing had changed to a permanent
stay. Father was working on the Snake River bridge but we continued to live
near the mill.
PREEMPT A CLAIM
The next Summer, we resumed our picnics and one day father said he
coitld get the pretty green place and the willows by filing a preemption claim.
Somehow it seemed a good thing to do, so he made the filing (1883) which
was later changed to a homestead. But when the surveys were made, we
learned, much to our disappointment that the line was farther south, cutting
ofif the green picnic grounds entirely but passing close to the willows.
That Fall, father built the first part of the new home and the rest of the
family made a long deferred visit to mother's people in Chicago, going on one
of the first through trains over the Northern Pacific Railroad.
The coming of the railroad is of the utmost importance to the pioneer. It
was supposed to make towns, sometimes cities as the track was laid. In the
Winter of '83-'84 work was started on what was then termed the Cascade
branch of the Northern Pacific. By Spring, a well had been dug, tank built,
inclines started and the track laid as far as Kiona. On the green picnic grounds,
a hustling railroad camp was established.
One May day in '84, with our household goods, we made the trip from
our home near the mill to the new home, the first in Kennewick. We went on
the ferry — The Rattler by name and by nature. It was not a very dependable
craft, for it sometimes, yea often, decided in the middle of the river to stop
work and float a bit instead of following the simple path of duty. But it hauled
the lumber for our modest home and then took us to it without accident
(58) . :
914 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Our home was near the north line of the land but was not as near the
river as we wished it were. However, it was near enough so we could spend
a good part of the time there, and I could often visit the contractor's young
daughter who was at the camp. She and I had much pleasure in helping our-
selves bountifully from the immense pickle barrel though it required a long
reach on my part at least.
i\Iore than average ability and skill was necessary in those days, to make
a little house into a home, but our mother proved equal to the life and work of
the pioneer. No telephone for her to use in ordering the day's supplies, not
even a grocery or butcher shop at first and the mail order catalogues were only
in their infancy. She had to get things in quantity when and where she could,
and much, — so very much depended on her own two capable hands. Trains
were not running till late in '84 and ever}'thing, including mail, was brought
from Ainsworth by boat or ferried across the river and hauled on wagons over
sandy roads. That year, '84, the track reached the site of Yakima, and our
camp was replaced by a little railroad town, now large enough to name. It
was desired to name it after Chenoweth, an early trapper, but as pronounced
by the Indians it sounded like Kennewick, and Kennewick the town was named.
A postoffice was started, the school district organized with fifty-four children,
and both have been continued throughout the entire interval.
The first building for business purposes was erected by Joseph Dimond,
who had a stock of general merchandise. It was quickly followed by hotel,
restaurant, saloon, grocer)-, etc.. till we had a typical main street of the western
town in its first stages. A number of railroad men made this their home, for
it was practically the end of the division. Trains were transferred on the boat
Frederick Billings and many a happy time did we have on it with genial Cap-
tain Gray and his family.
Besides the station and tank, the railroad company had a round house, turn
table, coal bunkers and stock yards all between the Northern Pacific track of
today and the river.
The stockyards were another source of interest to us children. Here were
gathered in Spring and in Fall, herds of cattle and of horses. Not only did
we like to watch the cowboys, even as children now enjoy them at our fairs
and movies, but sometimes we were happy recipients of a colt or a calf, too
weak or young to be taken farther. He was prized not only as a pet but also
for his future worth or service whicli, in our case was never realized, for not
one outgrew either his weakness or his youth : they were fed not wisely, but
too well.
Our school was the typical school of the pioneer — home-made desks and
benches where several sat together, equipment of the rudest, though for the
most part lacking entirely. The building, which was on our land, was provided
by donations of both material and labor. We always had a competent instruc-
tor. Our first teacher was ]\Irs. Haak from Portland. T. B. Thompson, a
graduate of a New York state nortnal, who was in the West for his healtli,
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 915
taught us two or three terms. He was followed by Miss Josie Miller, a grad-
uate of the San Jose Normal. Our terms were short but we must have done
good work for on entering graded schools, we were not behind those of the
same age. We had a joy in our school life not always apparent today.
Religious services were few and far between. Neither minister, doctor
nor lawyer dwelt in our midst. We sometimes had Sunday school but it was
hard to find workers and I remember at least one occasion when the benedic-
tion was pronounced by a small girl.
Sickness and sorrow were indeed hard to bear under those conditions, yet
at such times, families were exceedingly helpful to and sympathetic with each
other. The home missionary was here, it is true, but the field was so large,
travel so slow and settlements so far apart, he was a long time reaching us —
but he came. The ^lethodist and Congregational denominations were the first
to efifect any permanent organization. Most of our early settlers remember
the first visits of Dr. Samuel Greene in the late '80's. In his twenty-three years'
service as state superintendent of Congregational Sunday Schools, he did much
for our state and especially for the work in Kennewick.
This first Kennewick, the little railroad town, lasted only till the bridge
was completed ('87 I believe) then Pasco became the division point. Most of
the people moved to other new towns, some taking their buildings with them.
Only a few remained. When we had lived five years on the homestead we, too,
moved, going to Seattle and later to Ellensburg, where we remained till 1892.
It seemed as if Kennewick had had its day and also that a railroad, by
itself, does not make a city or even a town.
MEADOW L.\RK',S SONG LINGERS
Those old days have a charm of their own, perhaps because they are the
days of my childhood. The adult mind might dwell on their lonesomeness, the
barrenness, the awful stillness broken by the hoot owl and the coyote, but the
child-mind remembers the meadow lark's song, the wild flowers, the sports of
the river — swimming, boating and fishing in Summer; ice cutting and skating
in Winter. Most of the men working on the transfer boat were fine skaters,
and the children who could not skate found keen delight in being pushed over
the ice in chairs by them. A roaring fire of driftwood, on the bank, gave w^irmth
and light. Surely, those were delightful Winter evenings. At first the rail-
road company cut ice here and stored it elsewhere. Most of the settlers also
put up ice, so we could have it for the hot Summer months. Even the sage-
brush was made to give us pleasure for many a big bonfire did we have, usually
in the evening. Those days were not gray days for the children and it may be
that the desert developed their resourcefulness more than the town would.
If anyone thought of this vast area as an agricultural section, he was very
quiet about it and it is doubtful if the most imaginative of our earliest settlers
could have pictured Kennewick as it is today. Near our house, we planted
shade trees and apple trees (which we children were hired to water with pails)
and each succeeding Spring we planted garden. With squirrels and rabbits so
numerous, the harvest was small. Only one of the shade trees is now alive
to mark the spot.
916 HISTORY OF YAKOIA VALLEY
Xot until 1892 did irrigation become the principal theme of conversation.
That year, the Yakima Irrigating and Improvement Company, which was made
up of New York men and capital, turned water on our desert and we began to
dream of a future for the almost deserted town. Again it took on new life
and began to thrive. This time the people came to build homes and develop
the country. The townsite was platted and was farther l.iack from the river
than the first town. Besides the usual general merchandise store, hotels, drug-
store, saloon, etc., we boasted a weekly newspaper ("The Columbian"), a new
schoolhouse, and a church organization with a resident pastor. But the financial
conditions of '94 compelled a withdrawal of Eastern money, the formation of
an irrigation district and finally a return to former conditions. By 1899 the
town was again all but deserted, but it had been demonstrated that we had
wonderful resources for agricultural production. No longer was our country
only a desert fit for the wild beasts and birds ; no longer was it to be considered
a barren waste. Only man's ingenuity and energy were necessary to make it
"a land flowing with milk and honey." Never again would the desert be con-
tent till it had its chance. So, while the town was almost depopulated, hope
was left.
In 1902, the Northern Pacific Irrigation Company bought the ditch and
Kennewick for the third time made a start. So wonderful has been its growth,
and so fine and abundant are its products that it is the pride of that section of
the state. This is not a temporary growth, neither is it an experiment. Its
future is an assured fact for it is builded on the resources of a wonderfully
productive country.
Standing on the old picnic grounds looking south, the view is changed
indeed. No longer the pristine desert meets our gaze. Instead, we behold a
modern town with its network of wires, power station, its three railroads, ware-
houses, mill, a live business street, homes shaded by beautiful trees and sur-
rounded by lawms and flowers, church spires and large brick schools, orchards
and green fields almost continuous to the farthest hill. Truly, the desert has
been made to rejoice and blossom as the rose.
August 6, 1918. Daisy Be.\cit Emigh.
One of the best known and most enthusiastic of students of Indian life is
L. V. McWhorter, of Yakima. He is one of our Advisory Board, and he has
provided for the work a valuable sketch of certain Indians.
TWO NOTED CONTEMrOR.\RY Y.\KIM.\ CHIEFS
(Contributed by Lucullus \'irgil ]McWhorter.)
(Jf the several prominent later day Yakimas, none stood more eminent than
did IVc-yal-Iup IVa-ya-cika. and Sliiskin JVe-oiv-ikt. These men, although rep-
resenting two distinctive elements in the domestic and political life of the
Indian — the progressive and the non-progressive — were the embodiment of
honest integrity and fair dealing. .Associated in tribal affairs, they did not
always work in harmony, but it is best that the narrative of each be given
separately.
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY 917
Weyallup Wayacika, who died December 17, 1915, was born in the Selali,
of lowly parentage, poor and obscure. The year of his birth is uncertain, but
he was a lad of understanding when the Yakima war of 1855-56 broke out. It
was at the village at the Selah Gap where he saw Chief Moses and Qualchen
mounted on a single horse, after the Indian custom, ride about the tepees
announcing to the tribesmen the advent of hostilities and urging the young men
to take the warpath against the invaders. He saw the termination of this war,
the defeat of the Yakimas and the establishment of peace. Of an observing
mind, young WeyaUup early learned the futility of contending against the w'hite
man; saw that the only salvation of the Yakimas was a change of life fitting
the new conditions thrust upon them.
Before maturity, Weyallup found himself without a home and was taken
into the teepee of Ne-sou-tus and Ti-sun-ya, whose daughter, Yah-pah-mox, was
the recognized belle of her tribe. Weyallup soon won the heart of this really
handsome girl, gave his only horse to the parents and went away with her in
marriage. Before tiiat time, according to his own narrative to me, Weyallup
was wild, "having learned this evil from the white people," but under the in-
fluence of the gentle Yahpahmox, he settled down to work and rapidly accumu-
lated a competency and lived in comfort. Indian like, he loved a good horse
and even up to his death kept a few splendid racers.
As time rolled by, Weyallup's superior intelligence and force of character
asserted sway among his people and won for him the highest honors. For
years he was a member of the Tribal Court, a part of the time President, or
Chief of that body. With Captain Eneas he was sent as a delegate to the Na-
tional Capitol, and was the recognized chief of the Ahtanum clan of the Yakimas.
As an orator, he stood pre-eminently above any of his tribesmen, and although
uneducated and witli but a slight knowledge of the English language, his
strength was felt in the last hard fought battle for the preservation of the tribal
w^ater rights. His logic is in evidence in the archives of the Indian Office in
many ways. The "Memorial of the Yakima Tribe of Indians," published in
pamphlet form by order of Congress, 1913. is striking. The petition therein,
signed by the chief and his colleague, Louis ^lann, the watch dogs of their
tribe, has been quoted in some of the leading magazines as a "wonderful Indian
production." To this petition has been ascribed the final overthrow of the
powerful and well organized attempt to wrest from the Yakima their water
rights to the value of undetermined millions. It was these two men who held
the Ahtanums aloof from the graft-fostered and pernicious "Brotherhood of
North American Indians," so mysteriously launched during the hottest of the
fight in behalf of justice for the tribe.
Although the hand of Chief Weyallup Wayacika was never against the
white man, his friendship was often requited by uncharitable acts by the "higher"
race. The confirmation of the theft of the Reservation waters on the Ahtanum
by Secretary of the Interior, Garfield, to the tune of "Potlatch nika hiyu chuck"
(give me plenty water), improvised and sung for his election by a chosen choir
at an Ahtanum picnic, is a substance of record, and the taking over of the
Indian Canal, built by Chief Weyallup and his "boys" under the supervision
of Agent Erwin, and for which they received not a dollar's pay, has never been
918 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
righted. The history of tliis crime is set forth in the chief's own language at the
end of this sketch. But perhaps the most pitiful and unprovoked wrong suii'ered
by the old chief was the destruction of his fishtraps in the Tieton River. For
the of¥ense of an unknown Indian giving a white woman a drink of whiskey,
the Sherifif destroyed the traps of the chief and ordered him to refrain from
ever fishing there again on pain of being arrested and jailed. This terminated
for all time his fishing at that place, recognized as his right under the treaty of
1855. As a fact the chief had nothing to do with the whiskey-white woman
episode.
During the alarm caused by the Peyute war in 1878, to which the unfor-
tunate Perkins tragedy in the Rattlesnake Mountain can be traced, Weyallup
continued on the most friendly terms with the settlers, mingling with them and
joking freely as was his wont. He was at Yakima City for three or four days
during the panic, watching the whites build the "Fort" at that place. There
were hot heads among the men and it was proposed that they hang Weyallup,
but cooler judgment prevailed and perhaps the friendly Indian never knew how
near he came to stretching hemp. i\Ir. W. Z. York, then Deputy SheriiT, told
me of this affair. He regarded the chief as a good man and with no hostile
intentions towards the whites. Athletic in his younger days, the chief was a
noted wrestler and once engaged in a wrestling bout with a white champion at
Yakima City, when a bystander unprovokedly struck the Indian over the head
with a piece of timber, for the time rendering him hors du combat. Weyallup
never forgave this flagrant wrong as long as he lived.
On page 163. "History of Klickitat, Yakima and Kittitas Counties, Wash-
ington," is to be found an account of the arrest and gun intimidation of Weyallup
during the alarm in question, because of his alleged threat to a man who was
harvesting his wheat on the Naches that, "the Indians will attend to that for
you." Seemingly this is all a fanciful fabrication. There was an incident not
unlike it which happened on the Ahtanum at that time. The settlers were con-
structing a fort built of "mud and logs" on the Dickerson ranch, and Weyallup
riding liy called out to the workers: "Make the walls strong for the bull has
long horns and will tear it down." For this, the old Indians tell me, the chief
was "arrested and fined one horse wofth $40." AMiether this was through
legal channels I do not know. The "fine" may have been imposed and col-
lected by a private or self constituted tribunal, as was often the case on the
border, and an Indian the victim. The chief was only jesting, for which he
was ever noted.
In the work quoted, page 357. is an account of the headless trunk of
"Tisanawa," a "witch doctor," found in the tepee of Weyallup on the Ahtanum
in September, 1903. It might be infered that the chief had a hand in the mur-
der of this woman, his mother-in-law, Tisunya, but such could not have been
the case. He was at the time with his wife in the mountains gathering huckle-
berries. The Indian who is supposed to have done the deed is still living. The
body was found after hogs had devoured the head and was carried to the tepee
where it was later examined by the coroner.
Among his other accomplishments, the chief was a medicine man of en-
\i;il)lc reputation among his people and is reputed to have performed some won-
HISTORY OF YAKBIA VALLEY 919
derful cures. He understood the Linguage of the Wahk-puch (rattlesnake)
and gained occult power from his communication with them.
Following is the memorial of Chief Weyallup to the "higher officials," as
dictated to me April 13, 1913, Louis Mann interpreter. Ihe speech is redo-
lent with the beauty of unconscious native oratory.
Ahtanum, Yakima Indian Reservation, Washington.
April 13, 1913.
"You are an adopted Yakima and a friend to the tribe. I, Weyallup
Wayacika, Chief of the Ahtanum, will show you my mind that you may send
it to Washington that justice will be given us.
"I hear that a committee is coming soon to learn how we are treated, and
I want to know ahead when this committee will be here, that I may meet these
gentlemen and consult about our business. Sometimes when the Inspector
comes our Agent does not tell us that he is coming and we never are per-
mitted to see him and tell him our wrongs. If I speak to the Agent about this
he gets mad. After this, I find the laws have been passed and that it is too
late to fight these wrongs.
"I am an old man and no longer a boy. I want everything carried out right
while I am yet living. We want to meet these men and this is what I am
telling you that you may write it for me.
"I am glad of our new Commissioner. He will be good to all the Indians.
I want an eastern man for our Agent, also clerks. This I am telling you is
for all my people. I talk for all the tribe. We want good eastern men to look
after our affairs. Western men help to rob us.
"Regarding our irrigation, the Reclamation people want my money or I
get no water. If I pay not, my ditch is kept dry. It was not always so. I
claim the soil, the water. Water was always here. It comes from the moun-
tains ; the boundary lines. Had these men brought this water from a distance, 1
would be willing to pay for it. This year they want $1 an acre for water. I
am sick. I do not sleep. I can not understand why each year they want more
money. I want you to write to the proper officers and learn why this is. When
the treaty was signed the law was established that the land and water was
Commissioner.' When we have done this in the past, the Commissioner slept.
We were left to be robbed. This is bad.
"Now I want to talk of the Ahtanum ditches where I live. This is dift'er-
ent from the Wapato Canal of the Jones Bill. The Reclamation Service took
three-fourths of my water and now I must pay for the other fourth or go dry.
I am a ward of the Government. They get after me for this water. When
the treaty was signed the law was established that the land and water was
given us. The law was satisfied. We were satisfied. This law is still there,
but it is not regarded by the whites. I have not forgotten this law, but my
people are passing away. I am grieved that the white man has not kept his
word. When an Indian lies, Me-yay-wah (God) is angry. When the white
man lies his God is not ashamed.
"That day when the treaty was set, 'the sun, the rivers and the white moun-
tains' were witnesses of the words spoken by the Indians and the white man.
The law agreed that when 'these witnesses disappear,' then will our reserva-
920 HISTORY OF YAKBIA VALLEY
tion be taken from us. You see those witnesses. The sun shines; the river
flows. Tlie mountains white with snow are there. The grass grows, but the
white man's word has faded. He schemes our water and our country away.
"Years ago when Mr. Irwin was agent, 1 went after him for a ditch on
the .\htanum. The Government agreed to build a ditch for me. Mr. Erwin
said, "You people have the W'enatche fishery money and that money will build
your ditch.' He said, 'You make the ditch and I will pay you.' He set me as
a foreman and said, 'Make the boys work and keep count of the days.' I did so.
All the Ahtanum Indians helped. We worked hard. I cut timber and brought
it down for the dam. All Fall we worked, then came deep snow up to our
hips. We shoveled the snow away and then plowed. I had two teams. I
used to get $6 a day for team work. We camped too far to go home and too
deep snow. We worked three weeks in the deep snow. The Agent said, 'When
the boys quit, bring them to the Fort and I will pay them.' When too cold we
quit and I took them to the Fort. Lots of them. Many are now dead. I said,
'Boys want pay.' Erwin said, 'No money now.' He ask if the boys work hard.
I said, 'Yes; hard work in the snow.' The Agent told me that later on we
would get pay. I took the boys home without pay. Three times I went with
them to the Fort, but we got no pay. Never got pay. Towards Spring, we
worked again. We do not care about pay, we want the ditch completed. It
was for us. During the coming years I kept the ditch in repair and kept it
good. I turned in the water and it came to my place. Erwin did not look
after it. The ditch broke, we fix it. We took care of it for many years. One
old man, Wal-li-li-ki, now blind, had his team there every year. We got no
pay. We did not want pay. We were glad to get water for our crops.
'I do not want to lose all my labor. Nobody ever paid for my labor. I
look at this ditch as alive today. It is mine ; as God gave me water for my
land. Now the Reclamation men steal my water and I want to see why I
must pay for water which is mine. When they made the new canal, they took
my old ditch. They rob me. I have nothing, but I own the water. I used it
for years. Now it is gone. I have no money to pay for this water.
"The ditch we built is about five or six miles long. These two men here,
John Grant and William Adanis, helped build it when they were little boys.
They drove teams. They got no pay. The ditch is ours. I want no lies in
this letter. You write it good and send it to Washington, D. C. I can get no
justice here. I want the high officials to know how we are treated and robbed.
I want to hear from them.
"This is all."
Copies of this appeal were mailed to the Secretary of the Interior, Com-
missioner of Indian Affairs and Hon. J. H. Stevens, chairman of the House
Committee on Indian Affairs. Mr. Stevens acknowledged receipt, but nothing
was ever heard from either of the other copies. The old Chief died waiting to
hear from the "higher officials."
Yahpahmox, the wife of Chief Weyallup, died December 17, 1913.
CHIEF SLUSKIN WEOWIKT
Chief Sluskin JVcon'ikt, the primitive, was the opposite of Chief Weyallup
HISTORY OF YAKOIA VALLEY 921
W'ayacika, the progressive. Representing the non-progressive of his tribe, he
opposed the stamping out of the ancient customs of his people with aU the
power of a stern, uncompromising wilL He was born on the west side of the
Yakima River, just east of the Washington State Fair grounds, where his
father, Twinite, a secondary chief, had his village gardens enclosed with a
fence. Traces of this Indian occupation were still in evidence when a part of
the tract on the L. V. McWhorter ranch was plowed a few years ago. Also the
excavations of five winter lodges were plainly discernable on a secondary "bench"
near a fine spring — Pool-hl — "water pushed up" — located near the northeast
corner of the fair grounds. These lodge pits were on the five-acre lot lately
owned by Mr. Elijah J. Craft, and disappeared only within recent years. The
Winters of Sluskin's boyhood were passed in such underground dwellings. The
ruler of this Indian settlement was Twinite, the son of former Chief Sluskin, who
had twelve wives. That Sluskin was the son of Chief Weowikt, the primal stock
of the "Pishwanwapum" of Tolmi, as quoted by Lord ; but more generally known
as "Yakima," a corruption of Yah-ah-ki-ma; a name which appears foreign to the
tribe. It was, according to tribal legend, conferred on them by the Nespelems
or Spokanes, or Indians of Idaho. None of the old tribesmen, including chiefs
Weyallup and Sluskin, have been able to give me any definition, or meaning of
the name. Space will not permit of further discussion as to its origin in this
sketch.
With Weowikt, the genealogical table of the family — indeed of the tribe — -
ends and legend steps in. Two sisters were kidnapped and wed by two stars.
To Tah-pql-lou, wife of the brighter star, a single son was born, and from this
son sprang the warlike race of Weowikt. Owhi, the renowned War Chief of
the Yakimas was a half brother of Twinite. The twelve wives of the father,
selected after the Indian custom from several different tribes, evinced diplomacy,
securing a wide neutrality and immunity from hostile invasions.
Chief Sluskin's age is not known to a certainty, but compatible with his
own statements he was old enough to accompany his tribesmen to the treaty
grounds of Walla Walla, 1855, as caretaker of horses for his half-uncle, Chief
Owhi. Later he was on the bluiT, west side of Pah-qy-ti-koot, a boy warrier
with the Indian forces ready to roll stones down on the soldiers had they attempt-
ed to rush the pass. Holite, better known as Billie Captain, was also there. With-
out guns, these lads could assist in dislodging the ready boulders and basaltic
blocks on the advancing cavalry. This battle ( ?) declared the chief to me. was
"no fight." But few of the Indians had guns and the one single shot fired from
their side was by Qalchen. This intrepid warrior was stationed with a few
chosen followers in a canyon in the west side of the pass and near the base of
the hill to oppose the expected charge of the troopers. But the unforeseen
flanking movement of the enemy disconcerted the Indians who precipitately fled
without putting up any resistance. The only Indian hurt was Tow-tow-nah-hee,
a noncombatant, who because of his inferior mount, was overtaken and shot
(killed), by Ow-hah-tah-ma-so, a Columbia River Indian and Scout for the
Government, about three miles north of the Pass. The victim was a young
man, unarmed and defenseless.
Chief Sluskin went on the warpath once. It was in the '80's when his
922 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
brother Columbus, filled with bad whiskey, was killed by two white men at a
cabin on the Umptanum, Klickitat County. Mr. Richard Strobach gives me
this vivid picture of the occurrence.
■'I went to Ellensburg," said Mr. Strobach, "to look up some coal claims
and had been 'stutYed' by John Clenians concerning the terrible warlike deeds
of the Indians. Columbus, drunken and restless, perhaps unaccountable for his
actions and with no hostile intentions, went to the cabin of the men and accord-
ing to their story, attempted to break in. Not heeding their warning to desist,
they fired through the door and killed him. Sluskin, then on the Cowiche,
heard of the tragedy and immediately started for the scene. I was returning
to the lower valley and met him on the road. I shall never forget his wild,
savage appearance. Decked out in full war toggery, his headgear was a sort of
cap with eagle feathers in it. and his entire garb was Indian. Streaks of bril-
liant paint added ferocity to his countenance, blazing with anger. He was
armed with a rifle and carried a big knife at his belt. His steed was a strong
looking race horse which came at a plunging gallop, foaming with perspiration,
yet pressing hard on the bit. I confess that I was startled by the sudden
apparition of this grim warrior, but he passed on to my great relief. Arriving
at the place of the killing, Sluskin found only a deserted field. The men had
gone to Ellensburg and were acquitted of all blame. They very judiciously kept
out of the sight of the enraged brother."
Chief Sluskin had the Indian's passion for good horses and up to near the
time of his death kept some fine steppers. "Pencil" was a noted racer he
owned just prior to the death of his brother Columbus. I have seen a tin-type
of the brothers mounted on fine looking steeds. "Pencil" was in the picture.
The Chief was fearless and in his younger days very athletic. He engaged
in many physical "arguments" with both whites and Indians and seldom if ever
came out second best. Nor did his courage wane with the burden of age. Only
a few years ago he engaged single handed three burly grave robbers at the Indian
cemtery near the Union Gap. They had disentered a body, severed the head
and were carrying it away in a gunny sack when the old chief overtook them
and a fight ensued. He recovered the head which he then supposed to be that
of his own son. but subsequent investigation proved that it was that of a nephew
instead and on this technicality of law the ghouls went unpunished. The Chief
afterwards declared that had he had a gun he would have killed them all.
Chief Sluskin was ever friendly with the whites and was known to befriend
the early settlers on many occasions. In one instance he carried from his own
scant \^'inter's store of dried berries and roots, supplies to a needy settler, who
afterwards in his days of wealth and plenty, seemingly forgot his aged bene-
factor, when in his last illness he was in sore need of medical atteiUion and
foods which he had not the means of procuring.
The Chief's reputation for veracity and honest convictions were well known.
In a conversation the late Hon. A. J- Splawn said to me: "Sluskin is the only
Injun I have ever known but what would both lie and steal. He will do neither."
His high sense of honor is well portrayed in his refusal to permit the con-
fering of his name on a certain reservation postoffice. now named for a wealthy
new settler. When questioned by me concerning the report that he had de-
HISTORY OF YAKnrA \'ALLEY 923
manded a monetary consideration for the use of his name, he vehemently denied
the accusation. He regarded the town as the rendezvous of an unscrupulous
trader who preyed on the Indians and he said: .
"I did not want a thief town, a stealing town to have my name."
An orator of distinction, Chief Sluskin's council addresses were striking,
if not always compatible with sound judgment. He stood high with his fol-
lowing, and was several times sent to the National Capitol as a delegate of
"The Brotherhood of Xorth American Indians," with which he unfortunately
became entangled. Well versed in the history and legends of his people, it is
regrettable that more has not been proserved of him. It is owing to him, assisted
by Holite, that many of the truly classical Indian appellations for objects and
places surrounding the city of Yakima have been rescued from oblivion.
Chief Sluskin's last public talk was at the unveiling of the Towtownahhee
monument at Pahqytikoot. November 6. 1917, the sixty-second anniversary of
the so-called "battle" at that place. Owing to enfeebled health, his speech was
brief, yet replete with pathos. He died of a malignant throat ati'ection the
following Christmas morning at his home on the Yakima River, near the pres-
ent town of Parker, and in compliance with his request, was buried by the side
of his son in the Indian Cemetery near the Gap, and within sight of the monu-
ment where he last spoke. The obsequies were according to the ancient rites
of his tribe, modified only to suit the modern mode of casket burial.
It is notable that at the unveiling of the A. J. Bolon monument in the
Simcoe Mountains, November 6, 1918, General Hazard Stevens made his last
public address, which, like that of Chief Sluskin's. was brief because of ill
health. General Stevens died on the morning of the 11th of the same month.
Perhaps the most interesting and replete of the few narratives left by
Chief Sluskin, is that of his guidance of two unknown explorers to Tahoma,
the "White Mountain," not long after the close of the Yakima War. Owing
to its historic importance it is here given with the annotations as prepared at
the time of narration by the Chief, November. 1915, and later published in
the "Washington Historical Quarterly." In the "Quarterly" a few typographi-
cal errors in names appear, which are here corrected.
CHIEF sluskin's TRUE N.\RR.\TIVE OF HIS GUIDANCE OF TWO \\1HITE MEN TO THE
"white mountain"
(By Lucullus V. McWhorter, November, 1916.)
In the correspondence and statements which went the rounds of some of
the coast papers, October, 1915, a great injustice was done Chief Sluskin, of
the Yakimas. The interview of the Chief by an over-zealous correspondent,
reported that the aged Indian acted as guide for the Stevens- Van Trump ex-
pedition to the great mountain in 1870. Chinook jargon is, at best, a very
unsatisfactory medium of conversation when questions of importance are at
stake, and unfortunately the Chief was credited with statements he did not
make. Sluskin has never claimed to have acted as guide for the explor.ers of
1870. Inadvertently I was led to corroborate the published error, but when
my attention was directed to it, I determined to sift the afifair directlv with the
924 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
Chief. This I did in November, 1915, in four different interviews and with
two interpreters. The narrative was given to a Tacoma paper, after which I
had a fifth talk with the venerable tribesman, in which a few minor errors,
niostlv typographical, were corrected and some new data obtained. The result
is here given in full. It is the clear, simple statement of the Sluskin of today,
devoid of perversive injections. Those who are closely acquainted with Chief
Sluskin, believe him incapable of wilful prevarication. Seemingly he had no
knowledge of the 1870 expedition. To a direct query, he plainly stated that he
knew nothing of this exploration of later years. That the Chief did act as
guide for two white men who visited the mountain just subsequent to the
Treatv of Walla Walla, shoulfl now be conceded. The facts are too obvious
to be ignored.
A RIDDLE FOR THE HISTORI.XX
\\'ho were those mysterious strangers? While the Chief may be in error
a year or two, either way, it is not at all possible that the explorers were either
Dr. Tolmie, who visited the mountain in 1833, nor General Ivautz, about twenty-
four years later. The riddle is one for the student and historian to unmask. ^
Chief Sluskin's narrative follows :
"I am thinking of my people — the old people who are no more — and of
this countn- which once belonged to us. I was raised here since the sun was
created and I do not want to speak the lie. You white people, you big men, I
know what you are thinking, but you ought to listen to me. You were lucky
to come here, but I am sorry the way you have treated us. You now have all but
a little of our land. I wanted everything straight. Governor Stevens was to
settle all the troubles, and for this, he called the big Indians to Walla Walla
in council. I was there as a boy to care for the horses of Chief Owhi. After
the treaty, Governor Stevens finished the work [arrangements] and in about
four years we were to go on the reservation.
THE T.\LL AXD SHORT STRANGERS
"It was, I think, one or two years after this, our people were camping
above the [now] Moxee bridge [about two miles east of North Yakima]. For
a long time a big topis [pine] tree stood there. -
"One day an old man, Yak-num-kun, came to me and said: 'Two King
George men come.' I look and see them. Both were short [scarce] middle
age. They came to us. One was a short man : black eyes like Indian. Fine
looking man, clean face. Some old Indian said: 'He is ^Mexican.' His clothes
looked like corduroy. He wore a hat, and had a big, banded flintlock pistol.
It shot big bullets.
"The other man was tall, slender. Not good looking, but about right. He
had brown, not quite red, hair on upper lip; light hair and brown eyes. He
looked some mixed blood with white; just little mixed. He had grey clothes
and cap. Had long flintlock gun with ilquis [wood] all along the barrel. ^
Barrel was round and shot big ball wrapped in blanket [patching]. I found
the short man had strongest mind.
KA-YA-TA-NI
Daughter of Chief Kamiakin, Head Chief of the Yakimas, Treaty 1855
CHIEF NOUH SLUSKIN
Sou of, and successor to the late Chief Sluskin Weowikt's Clan of Yakimas. A direct
descendant of Tah-pal-lou and Has-lo (star), progenitors of the proud
HISTORY OF YAKOIA VALLEY 925
RODE INDIAN CAVUSES
"They rode Lidian horses, one blue [or roan]. Had two pack horses, one
a buckskin. No big, or American, horses here then. All cayuses. No white
men here. Old man Thorp had not come."*
They wanted to know a man who could go to Tahoma, the White Moun-
tain. The old people were afraid and said: 'Do not show them the trail.
They want to find money' [mineral]. Then the Indians asked: 'Why do you
go to the White Mountain ?' The men said : 'We are Governor Stevens' boys
[employes]. We came up the river from W'alla Walla and are looking for
reservation line made at treaty.' They had long glass to look through.
OLD SLUSKIN NOW
"Then the old people said : 'All right.' They told me to show them the
trail. I am old man Sluskin now. I was young then. My father raised me
here. I knew the trail. I asked my father if I must go. He answered : 'Yes.'
I was not afraid. It was about the middle of June and patches of snow still in
mountains.
"I started, leading the buckskin pack horse and my extra saddle horse. I
took them to mouth of Tieton and camped. We got lots of trout — plenty of
fish.
"Next day we traveled and camped in Tieton Basin. The white men catch
plenty of fish again.
"Next day we went to Ai-yi [trout] and camped. [This was Fish Lake].
We camped at mouth of river at head of lake.
"We went on big ridge near head of Natches River and camped. Next
morning the men looked with glass every way.
"Then we started and went to Tahoma, the big White ]\Iountain. The
men look all around. South side is bad. They asked me about west side. Yes,
I knew it. On sunny side [east] water comes out; called Mook-mook. Dirty
water from middle of mountain and ice. The tall man killed young yahmas
[deer] as we crossed the Mook-mook. Shot it as it passed in front of us.
This was all the game killed.
"We got to ridge-like place and found plenty green grass and nice lake,
good sized, called Wah-tum. We camped there. The men looked every where
with glass.
"The Soom-soom [sharp ridge] runs down from the mountain. It was
covered with noon [mountain sheep].
"The men ask if I could catch sheep for them. I told them: 'Nb! Only
when they have young one.' They "said: 'If you catch one we will buy it.
Big one.' I never try to catch that sheep. Too wild. That night we roast
yahmas for supper.
"Next morning we went to a lake, not a big lake, only tenas [little] big, at
foot of mountain. We got there about one hour after noon, camped and had
dinner. This was north side of mountain.
926 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
'in morning wIe go somewhere'
"Next morning the men took glass up the mountain and looked. They
asked if I could take them to top of mountain. I did not know the trail. Too
many splits in ice. No ! I was not afraid of bad spirits. Maybe that is all
lie. We camped over night and roasted yahmas. The men said : Tn morn-
ing we go somewhere.'
"Next morning I saw them put lunch in pockets and leave camp. I did
not know where they go, but they start up the mountain. They put on shoes
to walk on ice. No ! not snow shoes, but shoes with nails in two places like
this [heel and toe]. They started early at daylight and came back after dark
same day. I stayed in camp all day and thought : 'They fall in ice split and
died.' At night I saw smoke go up from top of mountain, and I heard it like
low thunder. [Here the Chief gave an imitation of the noise he heard, in a
deep gutteral throat sound, not unlike the distance rumble of thunder]. The
men did not tell me if they heard this sound.
"The white men told me they went on top of mountain and looked with
glass along Cascades towards Okanogan and British Columbia, Lake Chelan
and everywhere. They said : 'We find lines.' They told me they set stick, or
rock on top of mountain. I did not understand much Chinook, and could not
tell if wood or stone. They said: 'Ice all over top, lake in center, and smoke
[or steam] coming out all around like sweat house.'
"Next day I started home and did not know where these men went. I left
them there. I do not know if they got other Indians to guide. Before I left
each man gave me a double blanket and shirt. They gave me a cotton hand-
kerchief, big and green striped. A finger ring [plain brass band] lots of pins
and fish hooks. Too-nes [steel] and sow-kus [flint] to make fire; a file and
[common] hatchet. They gave a lunch of yahmas. I was two days and a
half getting home.
"On this trip," concluded the Chief, "I tasted bread for first time. It was
nice. We had no colTee. only some kind of tea made from berries I did not
know."
OTHER WHITE MEN CAME
Wlien asked if he ever heard of any other strangers visiting the White
Mountain in the early days, he answered :
"Soon, not many snows after I guided these men, we heard that four white
men were in the Cowlitz. All the big men [chiefs] held council and said:
'\\'e will go see what these men want.' \\'e started to Cowlitz about berry time
and went to Fish Lake. There came to our camp, Poniah, Kom-kane and
Koo-ciash, whose hand, I forget which one, had been broken. It was crooked
in the joints. We had council and these old men told us the white men had two
horses and two mules.
"After council we went to see the white men. One of them was old man
Longmire.-' We asked: 'Why are you here?' They said: 'Only to see the
country. We are looking for a mine found by Poniah.' Then we would not
bother them, because they only came to see the mine. To a question :
"\es, I was there. I saw those men. I\Iost white men coming here came
HISTORY OF YAKIMA \'ALLEY 927
to see me. I was born here, grew up here and in the Cowlitz country. I knew
all the trails. I am telling the truth. I am not fooling. Longmire at that time
looked to be about thirty or thirty-five years old, not very tall, but near middle
size, not very heavy."
In answer to further questions the Chief replied :
"I did not think either of the men I took to Tahoma were sons of Governor
Stevens. They only worked for him, his boys. Most Indians thought they
were King George men. I did not know their names. They did not tell me.
"There were no white people li\-ing here when I guided to the White Moun-
tain. We saw lots of deer, lots of sheep and plenty of wow [goat].
THE N.\ME OF THE MOUNTAIN
"The name of the White Alountain is Tahoma. It was called that before
the white people came. It was Tahoma — standing up to the skies. We some-
times call it the White Mountain.
"We met but two persons. Indian boys, Charley Tooms-kin [possibly
Tompkins] was one of them. Met them this side of Tieton Basin.
"I am no relation to the Shluskin [note difference in the name] with the
crippled hand [guide to the Stevens- Van Trump expedition]. He was half
brother to my 'wife on the father's side. He used to live at Thappenish [cor-
rupted to Toppenish] about six miles below Mool-mool [Fort Simcoe]. He
worked at the Agency. He went to Cowlitz and married two sisters, daugh-
ters of Poniu. He wore two sleigh bells, suspended under each arm and they
thought him a big chief. His little finger on right hand was gone. He was
drowned in the Yakima River several years ago. Never found his body. I
never heard he took two men to the White Mountain. My crippled thumb
[right hand] I got broke in a fight with four Columbia River Indians. We were
gambling. My thumb was caught in blanket.
ONE SLUSKIN H.ANGED
"No! The Sluskin hanged at Old Town [Yakima City] for helping kill
tre Perkins people, was a Columbia Ri\er Indian, and not a Yakima. I am a
Yakima, and no kin to him. ]\Iy father's mother was a Cowlitz woman; my
mother was a Yakima named So-patkt. My father was a Yakima, named
Twinite. He was a chief.
CinXOOK NOT GOOD FOR STORY TELLING
"If you do not understand my talk — if not interpreted straight — then you
will write it as a lie. It must be right. Chinook is not good for story. I am
glad to have two interpreters. You must get this story as I tell it.
"White people are always making me stand up and talk. Why is this?
I do not understand what they want. They get me tangled. Then the temis
[paper] tells my talk dift'erent from my words. I do not want this. It is a
lie. It is same as stealing. I did not show the White Mountain to Stevens
and another man. I only guided the two strange men there. I have given you
928 HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
my true story. It is all that I ever told to any one. I never told it but once
before this. I did not know what they wanted. You are the first man to tell
me about the Stevens man going to the White Mountain. But you say that he
went there long time after we had all gone on the reservation. I know nothing
about this. It was before we went on the reservation that I took the white men
over the trail to Tahoma."
NOTES TO CHIEF SLUSKIN'S TRUE NARRATIVE
iMr. Elcain Longmire contends that it was not until 1853 tliat Dr. William P. Tolmie
ascended Tahoma, but the Doctor's descendants affirm that he made the ascent in 1833.
(Information j:iven by Mr. David Longmire, September, 1916.)
= The Yakimas were camped on the Moxee side of the Yakima River, east of the
present city of North Yakima. The large pine tree, still remembered by many of the
older white settlers, was in later years cut down.
^ Chief Sluskin's statement that these men were armed with flintlocks has been
cited as reflecting on the truth of his entire narrative; that such weapons were at that
time obsolete. I brought this fact to his notice and he vehemently insisted that he
was correct. He came to my house and I showed him both a flintlock musket and
rifle. He discarded the former and taking the rifle, pointed out wherein it was like
the one carried by the taller of the strangers. The only difference was in the barrels.
That owned by the explorer was round, while the one examined is an octagon. Taking
the powder horn, the aged Indian showed in pantomime how it was loaded. After the
powder was measured and poured into the muzzle, the large bullet was put in a
"blanket" and rammed home, after which priming was placed in the "pan." The older
Indians generally use the term "musket" in describing all guns used in an early day.
The ground taken by the critics is not well founded. It is an historical fact that flint-
locks were in use in many isolated localities long after the introduction of the per-
cussion cap. Captain Boggess' company of militia called out in Lewis County (now)
West Virginia, at the commencement of the Civil War, was armed with flintlock
muskets. Captain McNeill's company of Confederate Spartans when surrendered at
the close of the war, were to lay down their arms above Romney, on the "Wappatomaka,
"Virginia. Nothing but antiquated guns, including many flintlocks were found. It is
said that the men concealed their better arms and the old guns were procured for the
purpose of carrying out the terms of surrender. Not more than a quarter of a century
ago an old hunter in West Virginia killed a bear with his ancient flintlock.
* P. M. Thorp was the first settler in the Yakima Valley. He came there in 1861 and
his homestead was in the Moxee. He had come to Oregon in 1844.
= Mr. David I/ongmire. son of "old man Longmire." tells me that this description and
location of the mining party tallies with the known tacts in the case.
INDEX
A. B, C. of Economic Science 329
Abernethy, A. S. 293
Abernethy, Clark & Co. 330
Abernethy, George 220
Aboriginal and Physical History 33
Abrams. W. R. 779
Abstract, N. P. R. R. lands set aside
for tovvnsite 395
Academy now a memory 474
Academy Emanuel 870
Academy Trustees, 1889 474
Acre:ige under government project--375
Act creating Yakima County 284
Act regulating irrigation and water
rights 350
Act to change boundaries 599
Act to create county of Kittitas 596
Act to incorporate Ellensburg 671
Act to incorporate North Yakima 404
Act to remove county seat 415
Actual discovery of the Columbia — 113
Adams, Mrs. Fred 568
Adams, J. M. 291, 401
Adams, J. M. and Mrs. P. D 502
Adams, William L. 510, 919
Address of Ex-Governor Moore 308
Address of Governor Ferry 310
Address to voters of North Yakima_-436
Adopts War Orphan, Twentieth Cen-
tury, Portia and Coterie Clubs 900
Adkins, L. H. 256
Agitation for new county 738
Advertisements from Yakima Her-
ald, 1889 415
Advertisers in the "Bulletin" in 1905.839
Advertisements in "Record" 500
Advertisements, 1883 646
Advertisements in "Courier," 1903---854
Advisory board 33
Aftermath of wars 247
Agents appointed 499
Agricultural lands on reservation 559
Ahtanum 479, 785
Ahtanum Red Cross 476
Ainsworth, J. C. 330
"Albatross" The 137
Aleshecas Mission 188
Alfalfa a successful crop 803
Allen and Chapman open drug store-402
Allen, Dora 360
Allen, Frank J. 423
Allen. George M. 517
Allen, James W. 275
Alien. John 273, 298, 792
Allen, Lieut. J. K. 254
Allen, W. R. 364
Aliens, Bert. Fred and Jacob 267
Allied war benevolences 449
Allotment of land in Severalty 544
All Sing (Visions Fulfilled) 384
American fur companies 136
American fur traders. Later 158
American State Bank, Wapato 556
"Americans follow me!" 163
"America and Americanism" 904
Ames, Frank 524
Ames, W. O. 591
Amon. Howard 364
Amon, S. H. 851
Anders. T. J. 288
Anderson, C. O. 538, 859
Andrews, Lucy 473
Annis, G. M. 847
Annual "Clean-up" day 901
Annual miners' election 782
.^pashwayiikt 234
Apples are prize winners 803
Apple harvest is over 886
Applegate, Jesse 201
Archaeological explorations 98
Art Committee, The 902
Area irrigated by wells 72
.^rea of reservations 559
.\real extent of schist 57
"Argus," The 510
.Arid lands on reservation 559
.Armstrong, Father . 473
Armstrong, John B. 516
Armstrong. Mr. and Mrs. J. W 859
Artesian water 69
Ash. James 780
Ascending Mount .Adams 39
930
INDEX
Ashburton Treaty 174
Ashley, William H. 159
Associated Charities ask support 886
Aster, John Jacob 139
"Astoria" 164
Astoria, Founding of 139
Anti-monopoly party 291
Atkinson, Dr. G. H 176, 474
Attack on Seattle, 1856 247
Attendance keeps up (Fair) 490
Attorneys at first court 601
At Big Eddy, celebration 877
At Kennewick and Pasco, celebration 875
At the river 837
At Wallula, celebration 877
Auction canned fruit 493
Auditors, territorial 308
"Aunt Pop" Woolery 206
Averill, H. B. 516, 780
Awards, Poultry, 1918 Fair 492
"Bad tomanowas" 241
Bagley, C. B. 496
Bailey, Rev. A, J. 475
Bailey, C. F, 360, 506
Baker, Mrs. L. 906
Baldwin, E. H. 374
Ballinger, R. L. 852
Bancroft, A. A. ____540
Bancroft and Chittenden on Bonne-
ville 162
Bancroft, H. H. 92
Bank deposits, Yakima 450
Bank personnel entirely Indian 556
Bank robbery at Roslyn 778
Banks of North Yakima prosperous-448
Banks. J. L. 779
Barge, B. F. 371, 457
Barker Brothers donate block 285
Barker, O. D. 276
Barker, Sumner 276
Barlow, S. K. 200
Barnard. E. C. 545
Barnes. Alexander 204
Barnes, Capt. James 273
Barnes, T. B. 289
Barnum. Smith 277
Barron, Henry 522
Barrows, Rev. Wm. 175, 178
Bartlett. Mrs. H, M. 899
Bartlett, Rev. H. M. 432
Basalt, Yakima 59
Basaltic eruptions 56
Bash wins in hard fight 887
Bateaux 158
Bates. J. E, 356, 573
Bates, Samuel 579
Batterson, A, A. 514, 517
Battles in Yakima 239
Baxter, Joe 277
Beach, C. J. 277, 850
Beach. L, P. 285
Beach. M. C. J. 847
Beail, R. F. 473
Beall, Thomas 124
Beaumont, Prof. W. L. 885
"Beaver," The ship 146
Beck, James 456
Beck, J. W. 353
Beck, Martha 277, 457
Beck, R. M. 456
Beck. Robert ^ 414
Beck, W. H. 573
Becker Matthias 281. 567
Beckner. Tobias 791
Beek. James W. — _' 276
Beers. Alanson 220
Beginning of improvements 573
Beginnings of stock raising and farm-
ing 580
Beginnings in Kittitas Valley 563
Bill, A. A. 516. 567
Below Pohotecute 786
Bennett, Fred 281
Benson, Commissioner, enthusiastic-490
Benson, E. F 355. 485
Bent, George 177
Bent, Governor 177
Benthien, Henry 491
Benton, H. M. 275, 288
Benton City and Kiona 842
Benton City "Herald" 535
Benton County 747, 810
Benton County a natural unit 738
Benton County an actual fact 744
Benton County doing business 748
Benton County exhibit (Fair) 491
Benton County getting ready 745
Benton County "Republican" 535
Benton "Independent" 525
Benton. Mrs. M. J. 456
Benton Water Co. 364
Bent's and Savery's fort 177
Benyowski, Maurice de 132
Benz Brothers 555
Bierce, Ambrose, on Bancroft 165
Billie Captain (Holite) 920
Bird Clubs 903
Bird, E. 275
Bishop, B. B. ,W0
Black, A. S. - 358
Blain, Rev. Wilson 510
Blaine. E. F. 360
Blalock, Dr. ^ 346
Blanchet, Rev. A. M. .A. 187
Blanchet, Rev. Francis N. 186
Bland, James 456
Blands, The 276
Blanker, Mrs. Mary -..gOO
Bleecker. J. S. 360
Blumauer, S. L. 591
Boardman, E. L. 506, 534
Board of Trustee?, Woodcock Acad-
emy, 1889 474
Boas, Franz 93
Boats of the traders. The 158
Bolen, A. J. 237, 540, 922
Bond issue by Cascade irrigation
district 621
"Bone-dry law" 514
Bonfire at night 520
Bolon murder. The 238
Bonneville, B. L. E. 159
"Bonneville's Adventures" 162
Bonney, W. P. 890
"Book of Life," The 166
Boomer, Alice 525
Boomer, George 525
Borden, D. Y. 579
Born ^_, 652
Boundaries claimed by various chiefs-235
Bounds, I. J. 492
Bounds, Margaret 268
Bourne, Prof. E. G. 175
Bouton, W. D. , 357
Bowers, Jacob 357
Boyle, E. P. 280, 288
Boyle. Frank 520
Boy Scouts and Minute Women 790
Bradford & Co. .._: 331
Bradford, Dan 330
Brannan. Wm. 204
Breithaupt, C. F. 851
Brents, Thomas H. 340
Brewer, B. M. 799
Brick and Clays 640
"Bridge of the Gods," The 97
Broshea, Doshca and Nason 272
Broughton, Lieut. W. R. 117
Brouillet, J. B. A. 187
Brown, J. P. 780
Brustin, Father 473
Bryan's visit 612
Bryant, H. M, 516
Bryce. Mrs. 538
Bubble burst.s. The 896
Buchore. Father 473
Building inspection 444
Building of Sunnyside, The 906
Building stone .: 68
Building the C. M. & St. P. through
Kittitas county 632
Bull, W. A. 567, 573, 579
Bumping Lake Reservoir 373
Bunting, Blanche 255
Bunting, Joseph 275
Burch, Ben 272
Burch, J. J. 288
Burch, Lucy 275
Burge, Andy . 207
Burke, J. E. 357
Burleigh, Andrew F. 399
Burlingame, E. C. 357
Burned area. Lie Elum 770
Burnett, Peter 198, 220
Burrage, W. H. 369
Bush, W. O. 207
Business failures 693
Business house losses 770
Business Men's Association (Grand-
view) 524
Business places in Kennewick, 1903__852
"Caldron Linn" 144
Camas digging 587
"Camas Post," The 517
Campaign of 1902 613
Camp Fires and Talkfests of Pioneers 889
Canaday Brothers 577
Canal from Pend Oreille River 386
Canals bring home-building era 896
Canby, Gen. E. R. S. 541
Candidates for Yakima offices, 1903-433
Canned fruit auctioned oflf 493
Cannon. Miles 799
Canoe and Saddle 92
Cantonwine, Dr. Charles 354, 848
Captains, Pilots and Pursers 332
Carloads in and out of various sta-
tions, Y. V. Trans. Co. lines, 1917_344
Carpenter builds boat on river 909
Carpenter, Charles 275, 352
Carpenter. R. E. 491
"Carrie Ladd," The 330
Carr. Abigail Walker 172
Carr, Donn M. 473
Carver, Jonathan 108
Cary, .-Mfred L. 400
Gary. G. W. 402,414
Cary. Louise Heiler 256
Cascade Canal 356
Cascade Canal Company 374
Cascade irrigation canal 628
■'Cascade Miner," The 508, 516, 780
932
INDEX
Casey, Colonel 219
Cast of "Visions Fulfilled" ill
"Catholic History of Oregon" 190
Catlin, George 167
Caton, N. T. 288
Catron, Mrs. Marie 353
Cattle kings see their "passing" 894
Cattle raising the only business 574
Cavalier Gale wins 178
Cavanaugh, Thomas 535
Caves around Mount Adams 36
Cayuse war. The 224
Celebrating opening of canal 346
Celebrate New Year's Day, 1812 145
Celebration a grand success 833
Celilo canal opened 346
Census of crops, Yakima Indian Res-
ervation ' 553
Century of dishonor. Our 222
Chadd, R. V. 497
Chalcraft, Mrs. T, T 491
Chamberlain, Gilbert 909
Chamber of Commerce 721
Chambers, A. J. 257
Chambers, Thomas 275
Chandler, E. M. 362
Channing, C. S 473
Chappelle, Samuel 275
Chapter of Recollections 889
Charlie Cultee 108
Charlton, A. D. 530
Characteristic stories of old times 279
Charities 447
Charter for Ellensburg 642
Cheadle, Rev. S. H 475
Cheney, Mrs. 257
C. M. & St. P. Railway System 343
Chief Joseph ."_ 224
Chief Moses 224, 916
Chief Moses in his true light 256
Chief Sluskin Weowikt 919
Chief Stwires 44. 239
Chief Stwire Waters 556
Chief Yellow Wolf 97
Chiefs killed or banished 266
Chiefs who signed treaty 264
Children's School Gardens 902
Child Welfare, Interest in 493
"Chinook Book," The 96
Chinook Dance, The 588
Chinook not good for story telling-_926
Chittenden. Gen. H. H 145
Chittenden, Major H. M 364, 884
Chorus (Visions Fulfilled) 383
Chorus of Cowboys 379
Chorus of Grains and Grasses 380
Chouteau. Pierre 136
"Christian Cooperative Movement". _799
Christmas tree. The 669
Church directory, Ellensburg 684
Churches. The 478
Churches and pastors at Kennewick,
1918 871
Churches and pastors of Yakima.
1918 483
Churches and schools, Toppenish 789
Churches and schools of Yakima 454
Churches at Sunnyside 800
Churches in Prosser, 1905 841
Churches of Ellensburg 716
Churches of White BlufTs 88?
Churchill, A. 579
Churchill, Mrs. C. C 566
Cinnabar 66
"City Beautiful" Ball. The Annual___902
City Campaign of 1903 432
City Charter, Ellensburg 671
City Charter, The (Yakima) 403
City commissioners (Yakima) 440
City government (Ellensburg) 696
City government in Kennewick 859
City library of Ellensburg Hi
City mills built 577
City of Ellensburg 642
City officials, 1886-1917 (Yakima) 430
City officials of Wapato 788
City of Toppenish and reservation — 78S
City treasurer's report 441
City water question. Facts about 436
Claimants satisfied; scalp saved 82
Clark, Doctor 277
Clark. Frank 250, 287
Clark. George Rogers 122
Clark. J. O. 289. 456
Clark. T. G. V. 402. 410
Clark. Lieut. William 122
Clark, Samuel A. 95
Clark, William 293
Clark. W. T 361
Clarke. Gen. N. S. 252
Clausen, Mrs. Etra 905
Clayton. N. H. 4.?6
Cle Elum and Roslyn 761
"Cle Elum Echo" 516. 762, 775
Cle Elum "Echo" editorials on fire — 771
Cle Elum history 774
Cle Elum schools 709
Cle Elum swept by fire 762
Cleland, George B. 517
Clenian. Augustan 273
Clemans. John 921
Clements. Mr. and Mrs. J. B.. 8.=;9
I
INDEX
933
Climate (ZiUah) "95
Cline, William 799
Coal , 66, 579, 640
Coal discovered 761
Coal mines, The 635
Cobb, Miss Emma 910
Cobb, Murray E. 888
Cock, Col. H. D 275, 240, 403
Coe, James R. 506
Coe, Lawrence 330, 334
Coleman, Charles 567
Collier, H. H. 492
"Colonel" Colt "argues" 217
"Colonel Wright," The 330
Colowash 278
Colter, John 148
"Columbian," The 535
"Columbia Courier." 536
Columbia Irrigation District 363
"Columbia Rediviva," The 115
Columbia River Fishing and Trading
Company 161
"Columbian" The 915
Coming of immigrants 193
Coming of the railroad 381
Commercial Club, Kennewick 872
Commercial Club, Mabton 792
Commercial Club of Pasco 389
Commercial Club of Prosser 830
Commercial Club of Toppenish 550
Commission form of government.
The 422
Commissioned men in world war.
Yakima's 450
Completion of Tieton project 372
Congdon, Chester A. 361
Congdon ditch 361
Condon, Thomas 45, 94
Congressmen, 1892 299
Connell's Prairie 248
Connell, Thomas 275
Connell, William 267
Conservation of health 444
Constantine, Father 780
Constitution Ellensburg Chamber of
Commerce 723
Constitutional amendments 617
Contrast, A. ,584
Conway, J. S. 374
Cook, H. D. 293
Cook, Capt. James 113, 132
Cook stove brought in 269
Cooke, Clara 567
Cooke, C, P. 275. 284. .567
Cooke, Eliza .567
Cooke, E. P. 456
Cooke. Mrs. C. P. 891
Coone, Elizabeth Ann 255
Cooper, Thomas 399
Cooper hauls first load of goods 575
Coplen, J. W. 275
Copper and silver 65
Corbett, P. W. 401
Corn award to Prosser boy 494
"Corn Belt" land at $1.25 goes beg-
ging 906
Cornelius, T. R. 242
Cornett, J. D. 361, 790
Corney, Peter 164
Correspondence from the "Standard" SUZ
. Cosgrovc, Thomas 851
Cost of Tieton project 372
Coterie Club, The 901
Could irrigate Eureka Flat 389
Councilmen, Roslyn 781
County commissioners, 1867 284
County division 563, 592
County making and records of
mother county 283
County news notes . 750
Count}' officers 645
County seat at Mr, Thorp's house 285
County seat question (Benton) 756
County seat removal settled 291
County seat removed to North Yak-
ima 415
Courcurs des bois and voyageurs 145
Courier, The 496, 536, 851
"Courier-Reporter," The 535. 538
"Courier-Reporter" on Kennewick's
war record 881
Cowboy era 379
Cowichc and Wide Hollow irrigation
district 361
Cox. Ross 164
Coxey's "army" 342
Crabtree. Malcolm ,520
Craft. Elijah J. 920
Cram. Capt. T. J. 251
Creason, Henry 812, 909
Crocker, Wilbur 423
Crockett, W. H. 567
Crooks, Ramsay 145
Crop values (reservation") 555
Crosno, Ollie 475
Crosno, W, P. 276
"Cross of Gold" campaign 300
Crownover. C. E. 374
Culver Gulch 63
Curios 640
Curtis, A. 571
Curtis, S. B. 288
934
INDEX
Curry, Governor 239
Curry, Gen. George L 510
Cut-Mouth John's message 239
d'Ablaing, Gerrit 574, 579, 891
Daily Republican 502
"Daily Union," Portland 511
Dairying , 552
Dairy Products, 1917 327
Dairy products shipments 807
Dale, Helge 805
Dam at Cle Elum Lake 551
Dam, Milton 886
Damman. J. D. 573, 576
Damman, M. M. 573
Damman and Tjossem 576
Daniels, W. B. 293
Daughters of American Revolution
890, 904
Davern, Mrs. Martin 566
Davidson. Mrs. J. B._— 260, 508, 568, 891
Davies, H. H 568
Davis, A. P. 366
Davis, Mrs. A. C. 903
"Dawn," The 515
Dawson, Mrs. Dora S 377
Dawson, R. J. 535
Day. John 143, 145
Day, Joseph 204
Dealing with thieving Indians 269
Death of D. J. Schnebly .509
Death of Leschi 249
Delano, C. 230
Delegate Thurston 221
Demers, Rev. Modesto 186
"Democrat" gives election results 434
Demosthenes, an Indian 77
Dennis, Wm. ,567. 573
Denny & Co. 555
Denny, R. H. 360
Dent. Captain 247
Departments of commission govern-
ment 424
Designation of units 368
Desirable lands in lower Yakima 866
De Smet, Pierre J. 186
Development of Benton County 735
Development of Kittitas County 592
Development of mineral resources--578
Development of the two younger
counties 563
"Devil's Scuttle-hole." The 144
Diary of Mrs. Whitman 169
Dickerson, J. B. 288
Dictionary of Chinook jargon 97
Dills, Mrs. I. H ."_ 903
Dimond, Joseph 850, 913
Directory of city officers (Yakima)-441
Directory of teachers. Yakima City.
1918 460
Discord between volunteers and reg-
ulars 240
Discovery of gold in Swank region__578
Disoway, G. P. 167
Dix. Mary 174
Dixon, Mary 475
Dixons, The 575
Ditter Brothers 414
Ditter. Henry & Sons 402
Ditter. Phil A. 432
Doc Livingston 912
Dollar Strawberry, The 857
Donald, George 360. 414, 485
Donald. W. H. 573
Donation land law, 1850 201
Donation party for Mr. Thomas 590
Dorion. Madame 147
Doshea. Broshea and Xason 272
Douglass. W. S. 360
Dow, Mr. A. B. 899
Down The Dalles in the "D. S.
Baker" in 1888 334
Downs. M. E. 364
Drayton. Joseph . 173
"Dude" Lewis 305
Dudley, Frank A. 354
Dudley. 1. W. 354
Dunn, Capt. Roliert 363
Durant, P. A. ' 535
Durgon. Alonzo 275
Durr, Jacob 574
Durr Restaurant, The 682
Durr toll road __.. 575
"Dutch John" 565
Dynamite used 765
Dysart. J. S. 576
Dysert. J. D. 573
"Ea.gle." The 330
Earliest businesses in North Yakima-402
Earliest settlers 735
Early elections and results 602-3
Early Ellensburg 591
Early fairs 487
Early mail "service" 285
Early officials of Cle Elum 774
Early sedimentation 56
Early steamers, names of 330
Early settlers near Sunnyside 798
Early settlers at Sunnyside 830
Easton doesn't forget 771
Easton schist 57
INDEX
Eaton, George P 523
Ebberts, George \V. 163
Eby, D. B. 804
Editorial on election (Yakima) 435
Editorial on water supply, Ellensburg 694
Editors of "Spectator" 512
Education — public library 446
Edwards, Rosine 475
Eells, Gushing 174
Eells, Rev. Myron 94, 175
1889, year of statehood 292
Eight thousand carloads of fruit 888
$8,000 for an axe 133
Eight to twelve tons potatoes to acre 552
Election of 1874, 288; of 1876, 289;
of 1878, 289; of 1882, 290; of 1884,
290; of 1886, 291; of 1888, 292; of
1892, 298, 606; of 1894, 300'; of 1896,
300, 607; of 1898, 301, 608; of 1902,
302; of 1904, 302, 613; of 1906, 302;
of 1908, 303, 615, 751; of 1910, 303,
752; of 1912, 303, 616, 752; of 1914,
304, 617, 753; of 1916, 304. 618, 754;
of 1918 305, 619, 755
Election records 601
Election results in 1872 288
Election, North Yakima (provision
for) 410
Electric light generator arrives 832
Electrical inspection 444
Ellensburg postoffice 646
Ellensburg .... 659
Ellensburg keg house 688
Ellensburg fire of 1889 690
Ellensburg helps 767
Ellensburg food men help 768
Ellensburg "Capital" 514
Ellensburg "Dawn" 515
Ellensburg "Localizer" 508
Ellensburg named for woman 591
Ellensburg "Register" 514
Ellensburg "Standard" 395
Eleven cars of pears shipped 887
Elevation 580
Elgin ranch 189
Elijah 243
"Elija," murder of 184
Elliott, Mrs. M. A. 479
Ellis, Mrs. Lucy 903
Elks and friends start fun at fair 489
Elks' derby 492
Elwood. Mrs. H. S. 904
Ely, Adriel B. 866
Emigh, Mrs. Daisy Beach 910
Enabling act approved 293
Enas, Head Chief 256
End of the war 253
Eneas, Captain 916
Enterprises at Toppenish 789
"Enterprise," The 535
Epilogue (Visions Fumiled) 385
Era of discovery 103
Era of early growth and mother
county 266
"Era of Liars" The 104
Era of trappers, hunters, trail-makers 131
Erickson, E. E. 573
Erwin, Mrs. Verdie 899
Erosion 55
Essig, Dr. N. F. 355
Estimate of expenses, Sunnyside
Water Users' Association, for year.370
Estimates of cost of storage, etc 551
Ethnologists, list of 93
Evans, Elwood 175, 240
Evening "Localizer" 515
Evening "Record" 515
Evening "Republic" on 1918 fair 489
Eventful years of 1883-1888 337
Events at Kennewick, 1889-1914 848
Exchange Bank of Kennewick opens-851
Executives of Chamber of Commerce.485
Ex-Governor Moore's address 308
Explorations by land 120
Exports from Sunnyside 801
Extracts from Yakima "Courier,"
1904 • 868
Fa'oian, Harry A. 400
Facts about city water question 436
Facts about Granger 797
Facts from government reports 550
Faculty for 1918-19 713
Fair officials pleased 490
Families in immigration of 1853 202
Famine 378
Farming by irrigation 796
Farm survey of Yakima County 326
Farnham, T. J. 173
Farnsworth, Levi 289
Fauntleroy, J. D. 374
I'echter, O. A. 354, 363
Fechter, Mrs. O. A. 899
Fechter, O. A., Recollections of 891
I'echter elected mayor for sixth time.434
"Federated Church" started 907
Federated health committee 902
Fellows, A. W. 8S9
Ferguson County 284
Ferguson, James 573
Ferrel, O. P. 798
Ferry boat. A.. 909
936
Fertile and beautiful valley 795
Fifteen churches in Yakima 448
Figures on irrigation (reservation^.. 560
Figures on river business, 1863 332
Filkin, J. R. 289, 456, 480
Filkins, Mrs. E. C. 480
Finances, Yakima County, 1917 315
Financial statement 441
Fire department 444
Fire of July 4, 1889 690
Fire and strike 778
Fire sweeps Cle Elum 762
Firevi^orks and ball 837
Fireworks at fair 494
First advertisers in Yakima 500
First brick building 591
First business buildings 913
First Christian crusaders 168
First churches 590
First comers 194
First court 601
First drug store (North Yakima) 414
First election of U. S. senator 298
First election under commission form 431
I'irst governor of California 198
First hops raised 352
First immigration through Yakima__202
First immigration train 564
First in city of Ellensburg 660
First inhabitants (Zillah) 795
First men in stock business 581
First mill 576
First names those of cattlemen 267
First National Bank. Ellensburg,
Closed 1893 342
First newspaper at Kennewick 849
First newspapers 591
First N. P. train reaches Yakima 395
First officers at Granger 797
First officers at Mabton 791
First officers of Prosser 830
First officers of Sunnyside 799
First paper in Yakima Valley 497
First political conventions 601
First postmaster at Kennewick 847
First postmistress 909
First "postoffice" 573
First real estate boom 895
First real settler 267
First river steamer 330
First school at Zillah 796
First school directors 849
First school districts laid out 455
First school in Yakima 272
First settlement, Ellensburg 643
First settlements 264
First state, and last territorial gov-
ernors 308
First telephone in Kennewick 856
First things in Ellensburg 661
First pig iron 642
First school teacher 813
First settlers 564
First water power right 576
First wedding in Kittitas 567
First white child born in the Kittitas. 566
First white girl born in Yakima
County 271
Fisher. David 573
Fiske, John 120
Fitterer, Mrs, Phil ....566
Five Crows 224
Five hundred dollars for half acre-.803
Flanders, Alvin 287
Flett. Letitia 272
Flint. A. B. 401
Flint. P. J. 288
Flint, Purdy 275
Flood. E. E. 490
Flour and coffee $50 per hundred 181
Flower, Edward 792
Flower, Mrs. Amy M 792
Flower. S. P. 792
Flow of oratory, A 835
Flynns, The 276
Fogarty, John 565
Food almost exhausted 199
Fort Boise 164
Fort Dalles 245
Fort Hall 178
Fort Simcoe. 1856 247
Fort Simcoe Indian school 558
Fort Stcilacoom 249
Fort I'inta 176
Fort Vancouver 156
Fort William 161
For the coal fields 653
For the Sound 653
For the Tennaway 653
Foster, C. D. 524, 806
I'ounding- and growth of North
Yakima 392
Founding of Astoria 139
I'our hundred publications in state 538
Four men killed by Indians 238
Four newspapers (Yakima") 448
Fourth of July, 1905 834
Fowler, W. F. 520
Franchere, Gabriel 109, 164
Frasier, F. A. 779
INDEX
937
Fraternal orders at Kennewick 872
Fatcrnal orders at Toppenish 790
Fraternal orders in Yakima 484
Fraternal orders, Mabton 793
Fraternal societies, etc. 720
Freeman, Commandant Miller 489
Freeman, L. R. 487
Freeman's Farmer 487, 512
Freeman, Yancy 517
Free Trappers, Some unique 163
Free trappers, The 143
French and French 535
French, Egbert 275
Frisbee, Mr. 456
Frisbie, F. M. 573
From coal centers, through hay cen-
ters to orchards 783
Frost, J. E 357
Fruit and vegetable products, 1917. _328
Fruit and vegetable products shipped-809
Fruit culture. Advantages for 797
Fruit products 1917 326
Fruits 638
Fruit shipments. Grandview 807
Fruit trees, first to plant 581
Fuller, F, B. 490
l-'ullerton, Mr. and Mrs. Rufus 860
Fulton, Mrs. W. G. 519
Fur trade begins 114
Fur traders. Later American 158
"Fur Traders of the West" 164
"Future is Bright" (Review editorial) 518
Gale fans flames 765
Gale, Joseph 196, 220
Gale, William 137
Gamble, Mrs. Jessie 906
Gamble, Thomas L. 603, 762
Game hunting around Mount Adams i7
Gant family. The 204
Gantt, Captain 179
G. A. R. in Yakima 484
Gardner, A. R. 535. 538
Garfielde, Selucius 288
Garnett, Major 247, 2.54
Gawler, Mrs. J. C. 903
Geddis, S. R. 567
Geographical sphinx, The 117
Geological conditions making Kenne-
wick 845
Geology of Yakima Valley 48, 51
George, W. A. 293
Gerlick, Caroline 281
German brings liquor to reservation-543
German, William 566
"Germany runs true to form" 518
Gervais, Andy 275, 565
Gibbs. General George 92
Gilbert, Col. F. E. 242
Gilbert, J. M. 485
Gilbert, Mrs. H. M. 900
Gilbert, Mrs. J. M. 900
Gill, John 97
Gillespie, George 567
Gilliam, Cornelius 224
Gillis, D. C. 801
Gillispie, John 281
Girls in great demand 201
Goflf, William N. 456
Gold discovery at Ringold bar 279
Gold-quartz veins 63
Goller. John 275, 565
Gonzaga College 189
Goodwin, Benton 573
Goodwin. George 276
Goodwin, G. W. 579
Goodwin, J. W. 275
Goodwin, Dr. L. H 275
Goodwin, N. T. 794
Goodwins, Thomas and Benton
275, 277, 352, 573
Gorsuch, Mr. and Mrs. R 860
"Gospel Preacher" 516
Goss, A. S. 363
Gould, D. E. 363
Government expeditions 195
Government (North Yakima) 409
Government projects 365
Government reports. Facts from 550
Governor Ferry's address 310
Governor sees great possibilities 387
Governor's day at fair 490
Governors of territory 306
Governor's proclamation 746
Grade of Yakima river 54
Grade principals, Ellensburg 709
Grain and grasses in sheaf ^.638
Grain shipments 808
Grains produced. 1917 327
Grand ball. New Year's, 1884 670
Grandfather Wheeler, ifamous "fid-
dler" 569
Grandview 805
Grandview Business Men's Associa-
tion 524
Grandview "Herald" 524, 806
Graidview Roll of Honor 806
Grandview State Bank 525
Grange Hall 571, 572
Granger 798
Granger and Zillah 795
Granger "Enterprise" 523
INDEX
Granger, Walter N. - 359, 795
Grant, John 920
Grant, }. W. 284
Grant, President 190, 229
Grape Carnival, Annual 881
Gray, Captain 914
Gray, Mary Dix 185
Gray, P. P. 342
Gray. Robert 115, 133
Gray, W. H. 174, 185, 217
Cirazing lands on reservation 559
Grease lamps 590
Great boom, The 341
Great immigration. The 197
(ireeley, Horace 179
(ireen. Rev. Samuel 475
Greene, E. P. 536
Greene, Rev. Samuel 852, 915
Greeting of Yakima "Herald" 418
Grewell, L. 572
Grewell, Mary 573
Grosscup, B. S. 354
Grow peaches, pears, apples 387
Growing settlement 272
Growth in the 'seventies 592
Grumbling few, The 594
Grupe, Miss Mary A 892
Guild, H. G. 528
Guild, H. H. 534
GuiUand, David 402, 410
Guilland Hotel 402
Guilland House shelters noted char-
acters 894
Gunning, E. 860
Haak, Mrs. May 851, 914
Haasze, E. J. 525
Had long glass to look through 925
Haines, Albert 272
Haines. Edna 796. 904
Haines, Letitia Flett 457
Hale. Dr. Edward 178
Haley, Thomas 567
Halhaltlossot (Lawyer) 224
Hall, F. C. 891
Hall. George 267
Hall, H. H. 359
Hall. W. H. 795
Hallakallakeen (Joseph) 224
Haller. Major 239
Halm, Joe 813
Halo Cumtux 498
Haltern, O. O. 775
Hambleton. J. W. 280, 456
Hamilton, A. X. 514
Haney, Mr. and Mrs. H. B 860
Hanford 885
Hanford "Columbian" 538
Hanford, Judge C. H 364, 885
Hanford's teachers 886
Hanson. G. E. 852
Hard winter of '61-'62 272
Harper, Winfield 535, 850
Harriman. E. H. 343
Harrington, Wm. 275, 565
Harris, Hymen 402
Harrison, President 294
Harrison, S. H. 514
Harrison. S. J. 843, 907
Harsell. Agnes C. — 513
Harsell, I. T. 513
Hart. Eliza 169
Harvey, George 796
Hatch. Reuben 796. 800
Hathaway, Felix 196
Hauser. C. M. 413
Hawn. Fred R. 524. 806
Hawthorne. Mrs. Catherine 491
Hawthorne, Wm. B. 491
Hay and grain. First to raise 581
Hayes, Harry 806
Haynes. Burdette 860
Haynes. G. .\lford 527
Haynes. M. B. 364
Haynes. Mr. and Mrs. Ross R 860
Hay produced, 1917 327
Hay shipments 808
Hays. L. G. 489
Headgates of canal raised 895
Heaton, David 275
Heavy voting at primaries 782
Hcbcrling, Guy 491
Hcccta's account 111
Hed.£jer. Dr. 848
Hcg. Dr. E. E. 484
?lclp for merchants (Cle Elum) 771
Hembree, Capt. A. J. 243
Henderson, Edward 275
Henderson. Scott Z. 538
Henderson. William 267. 275
Henny. D, C. 366
Henry, Andrew 136
Henry's Fort 137
Henry's River 136
Henson. Alfred 284. 794
Henson. Philena (Mrs. Thorp) 267
"Herald." Sept. 21, 1918. on the fair-491
"Herald." The Yakima 506
Hering. Ben 887
Hickenbottom, William 275
Hickey. Captain F. 147
Higgins. L. L, 803
INDEX
939
High school faculty, Ellensbiirg 709
Highways 445
Hill, David 220
Hill, Samuel 525
Hills, A. F. 535
Hillyer, A. S, 517, 523, 802
Himes, George H. 205, 891
Hinman, Oliver 410, 892
His rich uncle 197
History of reservation, Outline 539
History of sixth grade Edison school
pupils |-_585
Hitchcock, William 802
Hoadley, Miss Nellie 860
Hoadley, Mr. and Mrs. Cyrus 860
Hobday, Mr. and Mrs. Thomas 860
Hobson, E. G. 389
Hoffman, Miss Isabelle 377
Holbrook, Martin 276
Holidays 1 590
Holladay system stages 333
Holt, L. M. 554
Holton, Capt. C. M. 501
"Holy City," The , 909
Home Economics Club 902
Homes, Florence 204
Homes, Frederic 204
Homes, Louisa 204
Homes, Mrs. Samuel 204
Honey produced, 1917 i28
Honey shipments 809
Honor roll, Yakima's 451
Hooper, C. 911
Hopp, George W. 517
Hopper, R. V. 447
Hopson. E. G. 366
Hops produced, 1917 327
Hops shipments 808
Hornby, Mrs. F. M. 904
Horse Heaven country 531
'•Horse Heaven Wheat Belt," The_-532
Horse stealing 652
Horsley, Mrs. Frank 900, 906
Horton, Dexter 568
Houser, Tilman 275, 565
"Housewives" made for soldiers 903
Hover, H. A. 852
Hover "Sunshine" 538
Howard, General 254, 256
Howell, T. W 524. 792
How Horse Heaven Happened 529
Howick, Mrs. Evangeline 906
How it happened 787
Hewlett, Col. L. S, 787
Hubbard, G. G. 333
Hubbard, W, J. .804
Hubbcll. J. C. 357
Hudnal, M. N. 363
Hudson's Bay Companj- 135, 155
Huff, Henry 491
Hughes, G. N, 363
Hughes. H. S. 363
Hughes, John L. 423
Hull, George 567, 573
Hull, N. P. 475
Humane display pretty 494
Humphrey, H. M. 480
Humphrey, J. A. 792
Humphrey, T. C. 480
Hunt, Dayton A. 860
Hunt, Wilson Price 143
Hunters. Trappers, Trail-makers 131
Huntington, J. B. 799
Huson. H. S. 847
Hutchinson, Clara L. 519
Igneous intrusions 55
Implements for securing food 99
Important advantages 789
Important fire facts 763
"Independent," The 528
"Independent-Record" 525, 528, 812
Indian agents or superintendents 544
"Indian, cayuse and coyote 529
Indian court. An 559
Indian Demosthenes, An 77
Indian Era 377
Indian feasts 586
Indian life. Literature of 74
Indian medicine 588
Indian mythology 83
Indian myths 43, 87
Indian names, varied spellings of_-7S, 84
Indian Rights Association 549
Indian School interests visitors 558
Indians in pioneer days 586
Indians "making good" farming 554
Indians near Kenncwick 846
Indians swindled out of pay 919
Indians' vapor baths 125
Indian wars. Period of 222
Industrial and commercial Toppenish
790
Tngalls, Captain 278
Ingraham and McBride 280
"In morning we go somewhere" 926
Instructors at the academy. Early 473
Interest in child welfare 492
Interesting records, Prosscr 833
Interest in Oregon 198
"Interestin'. Readin' " 497
Inter-Mountain "Rights" 515
940
INDEX
Interurban Railways 344
In the Eocene period 49
"Into the hostile camp" 718
Invaluable collection of Mr. Bagley--S02
Inverarity, Capt. W. D. 395
Invitation party 419
Invitation to a dance 584
Irrigated lands 795
Irrigated lands near Prosscr 530
Irrigation 378. 575, 622
Irrigation and development 849
Irrigation brings gold from land 809
Irrigation in the Kittitas 356
Irrigation in the valley 347
Irrigation laws 348
Irrigation on the reservation 549
Irrigation, Poetry of 376
Irving, Washington 139
It was a landslide 434
Jackson, Helen Hunt 222
Jacobs, Orange 289, 293
Jacquot, L. 533
Jaeger, E. J. 196
Jahnkc, Robert 391
'•Jason F. Flint," The 330
Jay Cooke & Co 337
Jefferson, Thomas 121
Jefferson's Tribute to Capt, Lewis--129
Jeffrey, John 267
Jenks, H. 911
Jenkins, W. S. 813
"Jennie Clark" The 330
Jensen, Nis 580
Jenson, Carl A. 813
Johns, William B. and family 204
Johnson, Mr. and Mrs, A 860
Johnson, Fred 491
Johnson, Fullerton 853
Johnson, L. E. 363
Johnson, Ruth 48
Johnson, William 567
Jones, D. R. 245
Jones, Richard B. 400
Jones, Senator W, L.__305, 355, 391, 475
Jones, "Wheat Chart" 299
Jones writes of work at Washington. 388
Joslyn, E. S 288
"Journal" of Capt. Gale 138
Journey thru the Valley, Benton
county, 811: Kittitas and Yakima
Counties 760
Joyce, Mrs. Agnes 906
Juan de Fuca 104
Judson, J. P. 289
Judson, Rev. Lyman P . 172
Jumble Shop, The 906
Jumps the track (fire) 767
June Rose Show, The 903
Kachess Lake Reservoir 374
Kamiakin described 227
"Kamiakin's Gardens" 277, 891
"Kamiakin Last Hero of the Yaki-
mas" 97
Kamiakin, Leschi and Owhi 224
Kamm, Jacob 330
Kanasket, Xelson, Stahi and Kitsat--248
Kauffman, Ralph 357, 892
Kautz, A, V. 248
Kaynor, H. G, 515
Kaynor, J. C, 515
Kays, Ray 522
Keechelus Dam, Government report
374
Keelcr, Dr. C. E. 1 377
Keith, J. 147
"Keep The Home Fires Burning"
520
KcUey, Hall J. 160, 194
Kelley. J. K. 232, 242
Kelly, P, 456
Kelso, Mrs. W. A 843
Kendrick, John 115
Kennedy, I'ather, on Wilhur 543
Kennewick 844
Kennewick Commercial Club Mem-
bers 873
Kennewick Courier — Reporter on
Irrigation 385
"Kennewick Courier," The 853
Kennewick derivation 847
Kennewick election results, 1904 862
Kennewick, 1883 to 1889 846
Kcnnewick's first ordinances 862
Kenewick incorporated 862
"Kennewickles" and Advertisements
from "Courier" May 1, 1903 854-5
Kennewick on the Columbia 537
Kcnnewick's war record creditable_-882
Kennewick Woman's Club 872
Kennewick papers 535
Kennewick Printing Co 535
Kcnnewick's second Stage 851
Kcnnewick's third Stage 853
Kennewick "Reporter" 538
Ker, Jack 271
Ker, William 353, 484
Kesling, James 289, 480
Kcsling, Mrs. Jane 480
Ketcham, Miss Libbie 843
Keys, Captain 249
Kiefer, Sam 520
Kiester, W. H. 567
Kilbourne, Ralph 196
Kilmore plants a switch 582
Kingston, C. E 517
Kinney, James 529, 811, 910
Kiona and Benton City. 843; Papers
^ _-_. ^ 535
Kip, Lieutenant 225
Kitsap, Kanasket, Stahi and Nelson
._-, 248
Kittitas County 666
Kittitas County Democrat 515
Kittitas County "Independent" 515
Kittitas Exhibits, The 637
Kittitas County in Spanish-American
War 730
Kittitas Pioneers, Officers of 892
• Kittitas "Spokesman" 517
Kittitas "Standard"___497. 507, 566, 645:
on County Division 592
Kittitas Valley. 11\ Irrigation Com-
pany 356
Kittitas Valley (Verse) 656
Kittitas "Wau-Wau," The 516
Klickitat 90
Knight. W. E. 803
Knowles. Arthur 796
Konnewock Canal 362
Kurtz. Mrs. Olive 901
Kuykendall. Dr. C. B. 95
LaChappelles, The 276
Ladd, W. L. 360
Ladies' Aid, The 869
"Lady Washington" The 115
LaFayette, General 162
Lake Cle Elum Reservoir 374
Lake Keechelus Reservoir 3/4
Lake Reservoirs 373
Lane, Secretary Franklin K 385
Langdon, John 97
Large increase in plantings 552
Larson, A. E. 377, 891, 904
Larson. Mrs. A. E 898, 904
Last Territorial and first State Gov-
ernors 308
Later American fur traders 158
Later and Larger private Canals 353
Later General History of Kittitas
County 621
Later History of Irrigation in Lower
Valley 363
Later newspapers, Yakima and El-
lensburg 512
Later Sedimentation 56
Lauber's Flower Garden, Mrs 899
Lauljcr, Sebastian 353
Lawrence, Joe 277
"Lawyer" 229
Leasing System on reservation 561
LeBreton, George W 219
LeClaire, William 187
Lcdbetter Scheme 354
Ledyard. John 132
Lee. Jason 161, 168, 185, 510
Lee, Miss Helen ill
Leg crushed 652
Legislation is required 387
Lemcke, H. W. 889
Lenicke brings in big tractor 889
Lemon. Mrs. W. L. . 906
Lemon. W. L. residence 414
Leonhard, Frederick 574
Leonhard Mountain 576
Le Play House 211
Leschi 248
Leschi and Quiemuth 248
Leschi, Owhi and Kamiakin 224
Leschi Tragedy. The 223
Leschi's death 249
Lesh. D. E 355
"Lest We Forget" 308
Letter from Swauk 584, 659
Letter postage ten cents 910
Lewis and Clark Expedition 122
Lewis. F. B. 456
Levi'is, James Hamilton 305
Lewis, J. J 289
Lewis. Merriwether 122
Lewis, Mrs. I. L. 456
Lewis, William 288, 573
Liberty Bonds, War Savings Stamps,
etc., 449
Lillie, AI. 286
Lilly House, The old 414
Lime - 640
Lindsay, Walter 275
Lisa, Manuel 136
Listman, Mrs. G. J. 906
List of Immigrants of 1853 202
List of Mayors and clerks, Kenne-
wick 867
List of Soldiers from Mabton 521
Lister. Ernest 304. 386
Literature of Indian life 74
Lively debate at Business meeting-_524
Live stock Product, 1917 327
Livestock shipments 808
Livingston, "Doc" 851
Livingston family. The 204
"Localizer" statement 508
042
-Localizer" The 507, 652
Local Names 85
Lodges (Cle Eluni) 111
Lodges, Ellensburg 685
Lodges in Prosser at present 842
Lodges in Yakima 484
Lodges of Sunnyside 802
Logical opinion, A 594
Lombard, Henry 432
Lombard, Mrs. Sue 377, 904
Long, Philip 456
Longmire, David 202. 267, 564, 891
Longmire, James 207
"Looking Glass" 224
Loolowcan 212
Loowit 90
"Lot Whitcomb" 330
Louisiana Purchase, The 121
Lounsdale, R. H. . 540
Lovejoy, A. L. 174
Lovejoy's letter 176
Loveland, E. N. 491
Lowe, S. J. 402, 410
Lowther. Dr. Granville 490
Lucas, Mrs. Minnie 906
Luce, E. A. 423
Luce, Frank H. 299
Lueicr, Etienne 219
Ludi, Frederick 275, 565
Lum, C. A. 848
Lum, Mrs. C. E. 848
Lumber Produced, 1917 328
Lumber Shipments 808
Lundy, C. A. 852
Lyen, E. W. 284
Lyen family. The 275
Lyman, H. S 94
Lyman, Prof. W. D 891
Lynch, Daniel 275
Lynch, Jay 98, 229,539
Lynch. John H. 423, 890
Lynch, Patrick 567
McArthur, G. A. 517, 523
McAusland, T. 288
McBean, William 229
McBeth, Kate 87. 96, 167
McBride, Henry 304
McCandless, Frank 357
McCaw. Samuel 98. 554
McClellan. George B 208
McComb, Robert 506
McConaughy, Rev. Frank 475
McConnell, C. B. 852
McCredic, Mrs. R. C. 904, 907
McCrimmon, Needham Masters 402
McCrosky, T. E. 538
McCuIlough, E. 369
McCullough, James 204
McDaniels, Andy 274
McDaniels, Elisha 274
McDonald, Dan 275. 363
McDonald, E. R. 525
McDonald, Fenton 573
McDonald, Finnan 142
McDonald, James 573
McDonalds, The 799
McEwen, C. E. 402
McEwen, John 57!
McEwen, J. H. 573
McGrath, P. C. 780
McGraw, Governor 298
McKay, Dr. William C. 97
McKay, Tom 225
McKee, Mrs. J. S. 906
McKinley, Allen 330
McKinley, Archibald 199
McLeod, Mrs. Crystal 97
McLoughlin, Doctor John 156, 200
McLoughlin, E. L. 538
McMorris. Lewis 242
McRichards, Mrs. Guy L. 900
McWhorter. L. V 96, 239, 244. 549,
891, 916
Mabton 792
Mabton "Chronicle" 520, 792
Mabton, First officers of 792
Mabton Gold Stars 522
Mabton officials, present 792
Mabton. Townsite Co. 792
Mabton's War Work Allotment 521
Machine Shop for Prosser 833
MacKenzie, .Alexander 135
Mahan. Dr. J. A. 892
Mahoney. Mrs. M. 535
Mandarins want furs 132
Mann, Mrs. W. T. ...l 845
Mantey, O. M. 473
Many pioneer buildings left 413
Marine Gazette 511
Marks, J. P. 456
Marony, T. J. 519
Marquette College 413, 473, 478
Marshall, W. I. 175
Martha Berry School 905
Martin, Frank 792
Martin, J. W. 560
Martin, Joseph 491
"Mary" The 330
Maryland refuses to ratify 120
Mason, Allen C. 896
Mason, Governor 241
INDEX
943
Masters, J. W. 289, 456
Mathews, J. D. 515
Matthieu, Francois 219
Mattoon, J. P. 288, 414
Mattoon, Mrs. Martha H. 456
"May Dacre" The 161
May, Mrs. L. J. 257
May Start Dam by Christmas 886
Mayor Ruiifner 520
Mayors and Clerks. Ellensburg 700
Mayors and Clerks of Prosser to date
831
Mayor's Message (;)97
Mayor's powers and duties (Yakima)
410
Ma.xon. Libranis _.._-4.=.b
Meacham, A. B. 541
Mead, C. S. 363, 456
Meade, T. S. 289
Meadow Lark's Song Lingers 915
Meaning of Indian Names 589
"Me and President Keep the Peace"
_, 259
Meany. Prof. E. S. 890
Mearcs. Capt. John 114
Measured the rivers 126
Medill, J. D. 485, 513
Meek, Joe 163, 219
Meeker, Ezra 205
Meeker-Stevens controversy 223
Meigs, L. O 486
Mellen, C. S. 400
Members Constitutional Convention
294
Members Kennewick Commercial
Club 874
Memorable Mid-Winter ride 176
Men in World War, Yakima's com-
missioned 450
Men Wanted 652
Menzies, J. B. 579
Meredith, Frank 490
Messerly, Elias 573
Methods of disposing of the dead lOO
Methods of local management illus-
trated 369
Michener, C. B. 528
Mileage of Yakima Valley Trans. Co.
lines 344
Mill burns 577
Miller, Alexander 432, 486
Miller, Alfred 275
Miller, Rev. C. E. 520
Miller, G. W. 242
Miller, Miss Josie 851, 915
Miller, L, W.. 517
-MiUigan, J. K. 289
Mills 576
Mills, Billy 575
Mills, J. L. 357
Milroy, Judge R. B. 401
■Minerals 639
Miner-Echo Publishing Co. 516
Miners come to the front 774
Miners elect officials 784
Miners' homes catch 767
Mining in Yakima Valley 278
Minto, John _' 97, 218
Minute Women and Boy Scouts 791
Mires. Austin 357, 565, 892
Mires, Mrs. Austin 568
Miscellaneous 638
Miscellaneous provisions North Yak-
ima Incorporation Act 412
Missionary Period, The 166
Missouri Fur Company 136
"Mr. Greatheart" 199
Mitchell, William 204
Mix, James D. 288
Money Order Office 652
Monroe, James 121
Monument to 1853 immigration 204
"Mool-Mool" 540
Moore. E. B. 432
Moore, Governor M. F. 284
Moore, Maj. Robert 509
"More Stars for Mabton's Flag 521
Morgan, J. E. 781
Morgan. Jock 273, 799
Moritz, E. A. 369
"Morning Star" 82
Morris, N. H. 800
Morrison. Rev. and Family 204
Morrison. W. T. 357. 577
Aloses 254, 258
Mosier, L. F. 273
Mothers' Congress, The 905
"Mother" Whitman 183
Moulton, M, M. 363
Moving the City (Yakima) 394
Mowry, Prof. William 175
Moxce City 786
Muller. Sr., C. 522
Municipal Government in Prosscr^_831
Municipal ownership favored 436
Munn. David 579
Murfin. A. M. 517
Murphys, James, John and William
267
Murray, Mrs. David 905
Musical Club, The Ladies 900
Musical Program 520
944
INDEX
Mutual Creamery Co., 552
Myors A. C 268
Naches 786
Kaches-Selah Canal 352
Nagle, Mrs. H. H. ^843
Names of advertisers in "Herald" in
1889 416, 418
Xamcs of chiefs signing treaty 264
Xames of contributors 641
Xames of early steatnboats 330
Names of immigrants of 1853, __202, 205
Xames of Mabton soldiers 521
X'ames of petitioners for Kenne-
wick's incorporation 861
Xames of present Yakimans who
moved from old town to new 402
Xames of presidential electors. 1892
298
Xames of river captains, pilots and
pursurers 332
Xames of schools, and district num-
bers 458
Names of the mountain. The 927
Xamcs of witnesses to treaty sign-
ing 265
Xason, Broshea and Doshea 273
National League for Women's Serv-
ice 902
"Xative Races," Bancroft's 92
.\ative races of Central Washington 74
X'avigation and Irrigation 389
X'egro Creek district 64
Nelson Ditch of 1867 352
Xelson, John B. 267. 273
Xelson, Stahi, Kanasket and Kitsap
248
Nesoutis 915
X'esselhouse, .'Kugust 573
New Development (editorial) 518
Newell, F. H 352, 366
Newell, Robert ]63, 241
New order of things, A 252
Xewlands, Senator F, G 352
Xew railway lines 342
Xewspapcr typewritten 516
Xewspapers arrive twice yearly 510
Newspapers come around the Horn__S10
Newspapers of other towns 516
Newspapers of Yakima Valley 496
. Xcz Perce war in the Wallowa in 77 254
Nichols, Miss Lucy 414
Nichols. Mrs. Anna R. 455
Nichols, Mrs. R. C. ^905
Nickel and quicksilver 66
Nickel Ledge "_ _' 53
Xi.xon, Dr. O. W _ 175
Xoble, T. K. 366
Norman, W. H. 303
North Coast Railroad Co 344
Northern Pacific begun 337
Northern Pacific Company, The 530
Northern Pacific Irrigation Co.— 363, 916
-Northern Pacific, Yakima and Kitti-
tas Irrigation Co 797
"Northwest Forum" 514
North-West Fur Company 142
Xorthwestern Improvement Com-
pany 355
Xorthwcst Light & Water Co. fran-
chise 436
Xorthwestern Magazine, The -_796, 376
Xorthwestern Stage Company 336
Xorth Yakima, Act to incorporate^_404
Xorth Yakima, Founding and growth
of 392
Xorth Yakima (From Oregonian,
Jan. '89) 419
Xorth Yakima oflicials 441
Xorth Yakima townsite lands set
aside 395
Xoticc (Cascade district), 628
Xotice to shareholders of Sunnyside
Water Lisers .Association 369
Xotice: To whom it may concern-_596
Xourse, M. F. 559
Number of teachers in each school
district 458
-Xuttall, Thomas 161
Oakes, ZiUah 795
O'Brien, F. J. ;"]364
"Observer." The 517
Odell. J. W. 288
Odencal. T. B. 541
Offers of help (to Cle Elum) 769
Oflicers' bonds filed 750
Officers Chamber of Commerce 730
Officers elected in Yakima County.
1868 285
Ofticcrs Kennewick Commercial Club 873
Officers of Grandview 807
Ofticers of Kittitas Pioneers 892
Official results 776
O'Hara. Rev. E. V 187
O'Larcy. E. J. .-"-538
Old churches 413
Oldest house in Yakima Valley 793
Oldest Indians interviewed 854
Old grist mill on Simcoe Creek 558
Olding, J. G. 569
Olds. D. F. 791
INDEX
945
Old times in the Yakima Valley 909
"Old Whitehead" 200
O'Leary, E. J. 886
Olmstead, J. D 573
Olmstead, Phil 572,575
Olmstead, S. B 571
Olney, Frank 85, 554
Olney, Nathan 98, 240, 273
Olney, Nealy 557
Olney, William 85
"Olympia Columbian" 511
O'Malley, Dan, discovers Indian
burying ground 854
One hundred and thirty-one cars ap-
ples 888
O'Neil, James 218
O'Neil, Miss M. 456
One Sluskin hanged 927
One thousand men to the front 584
"Only $1500. for soldier morale" 520
Only partial darkness 769
On the tip of Mt. Adams 40
Orchard gardening, Profits in 804
Orcharding source of profit 804
Ord, Capt. E. O. C 241
Ordinances (No. Yakima) 411
"Oregon Dragoons," The 195
"Oregon fever," The 201
Oregonian writes up North Yakima-_419
"Oregon or the grave" 195
O. S. N. Company 331
Oregon "Spectator" 507
O.-W. Railway & Navigation Co 343
Organizing Pioneers Association 890
Origin of fire (Cle Elum) 764
Origin of Names 86
Other crops 552
Other white men came 926
Outbreak of war 238
Outline history of Reservation 539
Over the top the first day 522
Owens. D. W., "Dad Owens," 859
Owens, H. K. 364
Owhigh 213
Owhi. Leschi and Kamiakin 224
Pacific Fur Company 138
Pacific Light & Power Company 356
Pacius, B. C. 520
Pacius, B. J. 792
Packwood, H. 573
Packwood, S. T. 357
Page, Henry 491
Pahotacute. Battle of 241
Paino. Thomas 162
Painter, Margaretta 568
Painter, Margaretta A. 509
Painter, Philip 509
Palmer, General 225
Palmer, Mrs. L. B. 481
Pambrun, Pierre 160
Pandosy, Father 227
Papers of other towns ^516
Parker, Dr. Samuel 169, 178
Parker, Fred 395
Parker, Russell 525
Parker, William 273, 793
Parish, G. W. , 288, 455, 573
Pasco leads the way 389
Pastors in 1902, Yakima's 483
Pastors in Yakima, 1918 483
Patriotic day at fair 489
Paving improvements 447
Pay of county officers 599,600
Parker Bottom 793
Parent-Teachers' Associations 905
Pastors of Sunnyside churches 801
"Pea Greene" 538
"Peace and its meaning" 519
Peace celebration 519
Pearson, A. B., House of 414
Pearson, the express rider 231
Peck, J. P 579
Peed. W. J. 681
Pel!, Gilbert 273
Pengruber, Agnes (Ward) 910
P. E. O. 906
People's ticket won (Yakima) 434
"Peoria Party," The 173
Period of Indian wars 222
Perkins, Lorenzo 257
Perkins murder. The 255
Perry. Hugh 573
Perry, J. M. 573
Perry, Mrs. J. M. 904
Personal mentions in "Courier," 1903
,__.856
Personals 652
Peshastin District 62
Peshastin formation 58
Petition for division 595
Petrographic characters 60
Pcupeumoxmox, Chief 184,224
Petition for incorporation 860
Petition (Cascade district) 628
Phillips, W. W. 95
Physical and aboriginal history 33
Picnic to Swauk 658
Piendl. Henry 522
Pierce County's display (Fair) 491
946
INDEX
Pierce, Thomas 275
Pike, Mr';. Granville Ross 904
Pioneer 380, S9S
Pioneer Association for Yakima
County 890
Pioneer buildings left 413
Pioneers, camp iires and talkfests__-890
Pioneer journalism 510
Pioneer life in the valley 589
Pioneer meeting, to organize 499
Pioneer merchants 780
Pioneer stage lines. The 335
Pitman, F. L, 843
Plans complete for registering 524
Piatt, Miss Lima 792
Pleasant Bounds house 414
Poetry of Irrigation 37(i
Pohotecute, or Pahquytecoot 787
Poindexter, Miles 304
Police department 443
Political history, Benton Co 736
Political history, Kittitas Co 592
Pond, C. B., 780
Poppleton. Irene Lincoln 331
Population figures, 1889-1890 295
Populist and prohibition votes 299
Porter, James M. 178
Portia Club 901
Postoffice established 780
Postoffice in Shoudy's store 574
Potatoes by carload 805
Potato crop, $3,364 803
Potatoes, eight to twelve tons to acre
552
Potatoes, "Home of the Great Big
Baked" 552
Potato Growers' .Association 792
Poultry awards (Fair) 492
Powder at $50.00 per hundred 181
Powell, Luke 889
Powers, I. N. 342
Powers of the corporation (Yakima) 404
Pratt, A. J, 289, 480
Pratt, Eben 480
Pratt, G. W. 456
Pratt, Mrs. Hanna 480
Preempt a claim 913
Prentiss, Narcissa 169
Preparing the bread root 587
Prc-railroad facts 679
Present officers of Granger 798
Present officials of Sunnyside SOO
Present residents of Yakima who
moved from old to new town 402
Presidential electors, 1892 298
Presidential electors, 1904 615
Press in Benton County, The 525
Press of Yakima Valley, The 496
Pre-Tertiary Periods 54
Pre-Tertiary rocks 57
Press, The, in smaller towns 517
Prevost, J. B. 147
Priddy, D. C. 887
Principal Crops 552
Principals of the Academy 474
Pringle, Mrs. C. S., on Whitman 182
Prior, Robert 492
Private irrigation enterprises, Sum-
mary of 365
Private irrigation systems 352
Private school by Mrs. Rich 911
Private schools, Yakima Count}' 473
Proclamation of statehood 294
Productions 797
Profiteering, Would eliminate 386
F'rofit in orcharding 804
Profits of the fur business 133
Prosch, Thomas W. 238, 251
Prospects better than ever 388
Prospects are good for government
irrigation 838
Prosser 811
Prosser "American" 525
Prosser boy wins on corn 494
Prosser celebrates July 4, '84 911
Prosser churches at present 842
Prosser Community Club 812
Prosser, Facts about 530
Prosser Falls "Bulletin" 528
Prosser Falls Irrigation Company
355, 520; improvements 814, 830
Proser papers, 525
Prosser Publishing Co. .535
Prosser "Record" 525
Prosser's water power 531
Prosser to .Ainsworth, fare $5.00 910
Prosser Townsite. The 813
Prosser. W. F. 277, 355, 485, 812
Protection to person and property__443
Provenchcr. Doctor 186
Provisional government 217; institut-
ed 197
Public acts of 58th Congress 545
Public Educational Order 906
Publications, Yakima and Ellcnsburg
; 512
Public I'tilities, Toppenish 790
Pumping system installed 857
Pnrdy Flint house. The old 414
Qualchan 238. 917
(juicksilver and Nickel 66
Quiemuth and Leschi : 248
Quiltenenock 233
Quilting bees 899
Races at 1918 Fair 489
Races native to Central Washington. 74
Raiberti, Jean Baptiste 190
Railroads 632
Railroad Age. The 336
Railroad Commission, The 748
Railroad completed to Prosser 911
Rainfall, Variation of 347
Rains, Major 239
Randall, Amasa S. 516
Randall. U. M. 516
Randalls. A. S. and U. M. 508
Rankin. George S. ' 344, 361
Ratification of Trustee acts 397
Raymond, Mrs. Charlotte 906
Reavis, J. B. 360. 401
Rebuilding our burned city 772
Reclamation act 352
Reclamation era 382
Reclamation payments extended 373
Recollections of Kennewick 912
Recollections of O. A. Fechter 892
Record of elections 751
"Record-Press." The 508, 515
Record Publishing Co 497, 515
Recreation parks 446
Record of disaster 146
Rector. William 200
Red Cross arrives 769
Red Cross notes 522
Red Cross work of Home Economics
Club 902
Redfield. T. J. 410
Redman. W. H. 371
Red Wolf 231
Reed, Charles B. 567
Reed, D. C. 457
Reed. E. M. 506
Reed, Miss Emily 377
Reed, Fred 355, 484, 896
Reed, Mrs. Mary 480
Reed, Walter J. 762
Reeser, Mr. 573
Relief work starts (Clc Elum firc')„768
Registrars and places of registration_524
"Republic" gives list of commissioned
men 4.50
"Republican-Bulletin" 525, .528, 812
Reservation ships about 8,000 cars
yearly 555
Resolutions for and against railroad-338
Result of first election in Yakima
county 285
Results attained (Sunnyside) 803
Results of 1890 election 605
Results of races 490
Return to Pendleton 910
Ricard, Rev. Father 240
Rich. Nelson 277, 364, 813, 910
Richards, G. W. 491
Richards, N. C. 486
Richland "Advocate" 538, 885
Richland incorporates 884
Richland school board 884
Richland Festival, The 885
Richland, Hanford and White Bluflfs
sections 364
Richmond. Mrs. 271
Riddle for historian, A 924
Riggs, H. B. 432
Riot of fun as Elks invade Fair
Grounds 489
River business enormous in 1863 332
Road metal 69
"Robbers' Roost" 272. 510. 508
Robbins. Dr. John 573
Roberts, Jack 277
Roberts. Mrs. May j> 906
Robertson. Col. W. W. 502, 506, 904
Robinson. A. B. 250
Robinson, E, T. 791
Robinson. George 573
Robinson. Thomas R. 525
Rocky Mountain Fur Company 158
Rode Indian Cayuses 925
Rodman, G. E. 370
Rogers, Cornelius 174
Rose Society formed 903
Roselle, John 565
Rosencrantz, Ben 277
Ross, Alexander 148, 164. 564
Ross, Mrs, Mary A. 491
Ross. S. M. 491
Roslyn 777
Roslyn Bank Robbed 777
Roslyn Basin 66
Roslyn Commercial Club 781
Roslyn churches 781
Roslyn drill squad out 768
Roslyn incorporated 782
"Roslyn Miner" 516
Roslyn "News" 516
Rousch, H. G. 801
Rowland. Mary T. 569
Rozelle. John and family 275
Ruckle & Olmstcad 331
048
INDEX
Kudkin, J. J. 363
Rudow, L. A. 860
Kudow, Mr. and Mrs. L. C. 860
Running true to form (Germany)__518
Rusk, C. E. 528
Russia wakes up 107
Sacrifices required 476
Sagebrush everj-where 912
Sager children taken in by Whitmans
Sahale 90
St. Elizabeth's Hospital 413
Saint, H. Y. 486
St. Joseph's Academy for GirIs-190, 473
St. Joseph's Catholic church 478
St. Joseph's Mission 188, 189
St. Onge, Father 541
St. Peter's Mission 188
St. Rose's Mission 189
Saloons open day. night and Sunday
897
Sampson, \V. C. 537
Sanders, C. A. 573, 377
Sanders' Mill 652
Sanderson, C. E. 377
Sanitation and promotion of cleanli-
ness 445
Sargent, Nelson 205
Sargent, Asher 205
Saunders, Professor 49
Sawmill built 373
Sawyer, W. P. 188, 363
Sawyer, W. \V. 804
Saylor, Fred A. 90, 95
Schanno, Charles 276, 371, 353, 394
Schanno, Joseph 276, 280, 383, 394
Schisthl and Schorn 402
Schlosser, R. K. 803
Schmidt, John 567
Schnebly, Charles 567
Schnebly, D. J. 288, 507, 567
Schnebly, Dors 259
Schnebly, F. D. 260, 508
Schnebly, Henry 567, 892
Schnebly, Jean 568
Schnebly, J. R. 456
Schneblys, The 510
School board 708; of 1902 4,58
School districts, valuation, etc 317
School districts, Yakima county, 1919-
•20 458
Schools 455: at Konnewick 849; at
Wapato 7Si^
Schools, churches and societies,
Kennewick 871; of Yakima 454; of
Ellensburg 703
Schools (Cle Elum) 777
Schools of county (Benton), 757; of
Grandview 805; of Prosser, Present
842; of Sunnyside 801
Schools, private, in Yakima County_473
School statistics 1918, Yakima 458
Schulze. Paul 359, 399, 795
Schwingler, Herman 357
Scudder, 11. B. 344
Scudder, Alice B. 473
Second county display 491
Secretaries of the Territory 307
Secretary of War Porter 178
Secret Societies in Prosser, 1905 842
Sedimentation 56
Segregation of warrants, June, 1918 442
Selah Gap and Painted Rocks 783
Selah-Moxee Canal 361
Selah "Optimist" 517
Selah, Town of 785
Selah Valley Canal 898
Selah Valley Ditch Company 353
Semi-Underground houses 101
Senator Jones back of irrigation 391
Sercombe, Mr. and Mrs. J 860
Servoss. Fred 491
Settlements and occupations 848
Seventh Day Advcntist School 473
-Shabbiest" 213
Sharp, J. P. 289
Sharp. W. A. 781
Sharpc, Harrj- S. 376
Sharpstein, B. L 288
Shaser, George 570
Shaughnessey, W. J. .538
Shaw, Captain 182
Shaw, Colonel, B. F. 244
Shaw, Mrs. A. J. 414
Shellers. J. B. 804
Sheridan. Philip H. 241
Sheriff on scene (Cle Elum^ 768
Sheriff's posse trace robbers 780
Sherman, John 852
Shipments. 1917, from Yakima and
Benton Counties 807
Shluskin 927
Shock. Mr. and Mrs. 204
Shooshooskin. 589
Short Xotcs 653
Shot at 498
Shoudy. John A. 272, 568, 576
949
ShuU, J. \V. 410
Shultz, William 491
Shushuskin raises first garden 565
-Sicade, Henry 98
"Signal," The 502
Silver and Copper 65
Simmons. Captain James 259, 277
Simmons-Vaughn ditch 353
Simpson, Mrs, S, L. 456
Simpson, Sir George 20O
Sinclair, Mrs. R. C. 906
Size of Columbia River 119
Skloom 233
Slaughter. Lieutenant 239
Slemmons. .Arthur L. 515
Slemmons, Mrs. 890
Sluskin died in 1917 923
.Sluskin neither lies nor steals 922
Sluskin no relation to Shluskin 927
Sluskin on "guiding two men to
white mountain" 923
Sluskin's age not known 921
Sluskin's last public talk 923
Sluskin's passion for good horses. .922
Sluskin's true narrative 923
Smaller river towns celebrate 883
Smith, A. B. 174
Smith, Birdie Clareta 569
Smith, C. .A 513. 848
Smith, E. L. 97
Smith, Edward P. 230
Smith, George . 567
Smith. George Otis 51
Smith. G. W. 572
Smith. Hal. S. 517
Smith, Harlan T. 98. 847
Smith. Jedadiah 159
Smith. Jcflf 567
Smith, Joseph 183
Smith, Sherman 357
Smith, Silas 109
Smithson, J. H. 357
Smohalla laughs it oH 269
Smyser. Prof. Selden 569. 892
Snake River project has advantages_-390
Snelling, Benjamin 268
Snipes & Co. Bank fails 342
Snipes. Ben 267, 779
Snively, Harry 492
Snively. Henry J. 299. 781
Snowfall. Range of 347
Snyder, Mrs. Nona 904
Societies, Ellensburg 703
Societies of Yakima" 454
Soda Springs, 786
Soil 796
Soldiers from Mabton, List of 521
Some steps in municipal life 413
Sonderman Mr. 846
Song of Dust Demons 378
Song of the Demons 381
Song of the Engineers 383
Song of the Waterwheel 382
Sons of American Revolution 891
Soots, O. C. 484
Sowles, Capt, Cornelius 140
Spain's opoprtunity 110
Spalding Rev. H. H. 169
Special campaigns 432
Special edition of Wapato "Indepen-
dent" . 523
Special election Feb., 1891 606
Special election of 1889 295
Special meeting county commission-
ers , 630
"Spectator," Sketch of, Bancroft's _.5I0
Spcelyi 87
Spencer. Lancaster 556
Sperry, L. E. acquires "Republican"
501
Splawn, A. J. 97, 267, 344, 486, 564, 891
Splawn, A. J., on Wilbur 541
Splawn, Capt. W. L. 258
Splawn, Charles A. ..-270, 276, 284, 564
Splawn, Judge Charles 567
Splawn, Viola 566
Splawn's "Kamiakin" 232
Splawns, The 270
Spoflford, C. A. 79S
"Spokan." The on Snake River line 499
Sports, The (at Prosser) 837
Sproull, W. R. 528, 535
"Squaw Men" among first comers 267
Squibb, H. L. 843
Squire, Watson C. 298
Stacy, Martin Van Buren 896
Stahi, Kanasket and Kitsap 248
Stair, D. W. 371, 457
Stair, Mrs. Ella Parker 457
Standard Directory 646
"Standard." The. correspondence from
583
Starkey, William 491
"Star of Oregon," The 196
Starting of the fur trade 132
Start on return journey 128
State Fair of Washington 487
State Fair, The 487
Statehood, 605
State Normal School 455
State officers, vote for, 1892 299
State projects 368
950
INDEX
Statistics, Some concluding 326
Steamboat Era, The 329
Steamers. Names of early 330
Steinweg. Mrs. S. E. 899
Steinweg, W. L. 415. 485
Stelling. Jacob 491
Steptoe. Colonel E. T. 245. 251
Steptoe's defeat 253
Sterling, Guy 371
Sterling, S. T 289
Stevens appointed governor 283
Stevens. A. W. 574
Stevens, Gen. Hazard, 223, 891
Stevens, Gov. I. I. 209, 223, 226
Stevens, J. H. 920
Stevens. Mitchel 575
Stevens, \V. A. 573
Stevenson. J. \V. 275. 289
Stewart. Charles 275
Stewart. J. K. 781
Stewart. Mary Ellen 368
Sticcas 235
Stiles. L. I. 473
Stockades, The 586
Stockmen. Some first 581
Stone, John A. 898
Stone. Rev. W. W. 516
Storage now developed 551
Storage water 370. 550. 570
Stories of the fur traders. 147
Storrs. L. S 68
'"Stovepipe Canal" 848
Story of earlj' days 256
Strahoon. Robert 343
"Strait of Horrors" 200
Strobach. Richard 371. 414. 922
Strong. William 241
Stuart, David 142
Stuart, James 374
Stuart. John 142
Stuart. Robert 142
Students of Indian Myths 91
Stwires. Chief delivers an address— 891
Subscription School 665
Substitute for coffee 590
Sugar at $50.00 per hundred 181
Sugar beets 552
Sugar beets produced. 1917. 32S
Sugar beets shipped 809
Sulktalthscosum CMoses) 224
Sullivan. M. C. 780
Summary of engineers report 626
Summary of private enterprises 365
Summers airs views on irrigation 388
Summers and Jones working for irri-
gation 388
Summers. Dr. John W. 388
Summers favors other projects also-390
Sunday school started 479
Sunnyside and Grandview 798
Sunnyside Canal 359. 517
Sininyside Commercial Club 803
Sunnyside incorporated 780
Sunnyside Library 802
Sunnyside Products 803
Sunnyside Project 324
Sunnyside projects and extensions 369
Sunnyside "Sun" 517, 802
Sunnyside "Times" 517
Sunnyside ^\"ater Users' Association
report 370
.Surprise party, A 859
Swan. James G. 92
Swauk District M
Sweeps onward (Cle Elum fire) 766
Swig-art. C. H. 366, 374
Switchback completed in '88 338
Tahoma Cemetery 446
Tahoma is "White Mountain" 927
Tall and Short Strangers. The 924
Tamsaky 225
Tamahas wields tomahawk 185
Tampico 786
Tanner. Miss Alice 479
Tanner. Elisha 276. 474. 479. 480
"Tasted bread for first time" 926
Taylor. E. W. R. §88
Taylor. George 275
Tavlor. Mr. and Mrs. William
566, 569. 892
Taylor's experiences with Enamese-
chee Bill 586
Taylors. The 277
Tea made from berries 926
Teaching force at Wapato 788
Teachers in Roslyn Public Schools-.709
Teachers of Benton County, 1918-19.758
Teachers of Yakima County. Direc-
tory of 460
Teachers receiving "Licenses" 1869-
72 1 456
"Te-he" 847
Telephone wires open 769
Ten acres enough 797
"Tenderfoot" takes a trip 582
Tenneson. .Mice M. 377
Ten per cent made on $1500 per acre
valuation 804
Terms of Sale 797
Territorial Associate Justices 308
Territorial Att'v-General 308
INDEX
951
Territorial Auditors 308
Territorial Chief Justices 308
Territorial Treasurers 307
Territorial delegates in Congress 306
Territorial Officers 646
Territorial legislature of 1858 283
Tertiary Period, Eocene Epoch 56
Thomas. Mrs. Sam 572
"These are an American's pass-
ports" 197
Thiele, A. J. 525
Thompson, David 135
Thompson, T. B. 851. 914
Thompson, Mrs. Albert J 480
Thompson, R. R. 330
Thomas Adj. Gen. 244
Thornton, J. Q. 220
Thorn, Capt, Jonathan 140
Thorp, Dulcena Helen 270, 566
Thorp. F. Mortimer 267, 284. 565
Thorp. Major John 271
Thorp, Mrs. Philena (Henson) 267
Thorp. Melissa 566
Thorp. Leonard 267. 288, 352. 457
Thorp. Rulus Clifford 566
Thorp helps 111
Thorp. Village of 784
Three Thousand acres to sugar beets
552
"Three-ring circus" The 297, 610
Three Spanish Voyages 111
Three principal gold-mining districts f)l
Three ways of cooking 589
Threshed Grain 638
Tieton Project 325, 372
Tiffany. R. K. 349. 360
Tigards. The 276
Tilaukait talks to ^Vhitman 185
Tjosscm Mill. The 365
Tjossem. R. P 577
Timber lands on reservation 559
"Tisanawa. witch doctor" 918
Tisunya 917
To alfalfa growers 858
Toby and Nancy 588
To keep open house 414
Tolmie. Dr. W. F. 205
"Tomanowas Bridge" 89
Tomatoes from half-acre S500 803
Tomlinson. John 520
Toppenish 789
Toppenish boys answer last call 520
Toppenish Commercial Club 550
Toppenish over top in Liberty Loan
791
Toppenish "Review" 517
Toppenish Schools and Churches 790
Toppenish "Tribune" 519
Town and County 651
Town and County (From Wena-
chie) 583
Town almost depopulated 916
"Town" Canal, The 575
Town Building 907
Towns on North Side of River 793
Town was wide open 897
Townsend, J. K. 161
Towtownahhee Monument 923
Tough place at first 403
Town hidden by Foliage 893
Townsen, Miss Frances 904
•Tragedy of Leschi," The 223
Transcript of proceedings 626
Transient Papers, Yakima and Ellens-
burg 515
Transportation Age, The — ' 329
Trappers, Hunters, Trail-makers 131
Treaty with Yakimas, 1855 260
"Tribune." The ..517
Troglodytes 514
Trustees chamber of Commerce 730
Trustee property. North Yakima 397
Tuesley, George F. 506
Turner. George 298, 304
Turner, Miss Pauline 489
Turner, Robert A. 515
T'VauIt. Col. William 510
Twentieth Century Club 901
"Two Battles" 905
Two bridges built 574
Two factions 415
Two hotels built 800
Two Noted Contemporary Yakima
Chiefs 916
Two thousand five hundred dollars
from ten acres potatoes 805
Twinite 921
Two tons of potatoes from li x 85
feet 803
"Twice-a-week News." The 515
Tyler. President 174. 178
Tyler. Walter E. 535
Tyler. W. D. 35?
l"dell, Mrs. C. E. 90S
Udell. Mrs. Alberta 906
"Umatilla." The 330
I'. S. attorneys in territory 307
U. S. marshals in territory 307
U. S. postoffice established 573
U. S. surveyors general in territory_307
United Mine Workers' election 783
INDEX
I'nion Gap Irrigation Co. 374
I'nion Pacific Railroad Co. 344
I'nion of North-West and Hudson's
Bay Companies 155
■•\'ale" and "Greetings," ("Bulletin")
534
"Vale" of George and Alice Boomer
526
Valedictory, Schnebly's -508
Value of exports, 1917 -523
Value of reservation crops 555
Van Amberg, Mrs. Jessamine 906
Van .-Antwerp, Ira 911
Vance, George 900
Vance, R. M, 484
Vancouver, Capt. George 117
Van Brunt, Mrs. Ed 906
Van Marter, J. G. 3.-i5
Van Vleet, Prtffessor 473
Varied spellings of names 75
Varney, Mrs. A. C. 905
Vaughn, John 567
Vaughn, Thomas 277. 456
Vegetables —638; produced, 1917,
326; shipments 807
"Venture," The 330
Verity, A. C. 534
Verity, A. E. 534
Verran, William 522, 557
Victor, Mrs. F. F. 175
Victory of the Volunteers 244
ViUard, Henry 337, 795
"Visions Fumiled" 377
Vivian, Mrs. Alice 479
Voice, J. E. 573
Volume shipping over Yakima Valley
Trans. Co. lines, 1917 344
von Winkel, W. 49
Voorhees, Charles, 291; Delegate 507
Vote of 1870 for county seat 287
Vote to locate school house 910
\^oyageurs and Coureurs des bois — 145
AVade, Walter 520
Waiilatpu 172
W'ake, George T. 782
Wakker, Letitia 456
Walden, Freeman 794
Walker, Charles 288
Walker. C. B. 573
Walker, Cyrus 258
AValker, I. R. 162
Walker, R. C. 796
Walker, Rev. Elkanah 174
Walker, William 167
Wallace. J. R.
Walla Walla Bulletin
Irrigation
.... 386, 2
Walla Walla campaign
Waller, Rev. A. F. ....
Ward, M. A.
Ward, Michael
242
221
812
910
Warnecke, Mrs. Emma 813, 909
Warnecke. Fred 813
Walsh, J. F. 373-
"Want swap coat? Want swap
horse?" 212
War organizations 906
Wapato 788
Wapato churches 789
Wapato "Independent" : 522
Wapato project 325
Wapatox Canal, The 362'
Warbass, Mr. 273
Warburton, Congressman 486
War chiefs of the Indians 224
War Eagle 224
Ward Brothers 402
Warren gets "justice" 281
Warrior General Vein 63
W»r of 1812, the climax 147
War on the railroad. The 338
War Savings Stamps, Liberty Bonds,
etc. 449
"W'asco," the steamer 330
Washington Irrigation Co. 360
Washington "Historical Quarterly"--923
Washington Lodging House 858
Washington Irrigation Co., Letter tO-794
Washington "Sentinel" 514
\\'ashington State Fair 449
Washington State Normal School 710
Washington universally "wet" 908
Water question. The 695
W'ater systems ^ 446
Water transportation 345
Watson, H. R. 534
Watson. Mrs. Halsey 906
Watt, Aaron E. 510
Webster, Daniel 178
Weed. A. B. 401, 410, 432, 485
"Weekly Epigram" 513
"Weekly Record," The, First Number
of 890
Weekly "Free Press" 513
Week's average good (fair) 495
Wehe. A. F .525
Weikel, George 371
Weller, Martin 533
Wells, J. H. 357
West Kittitas Canal 356.
INDEX
953-
W'estport. Mo., starting point 198
West Side Canal 575
Weyallup's Memorial to "higher offi-
cials" 919
Weyallup Wayacika 917
■Wheat Chart" Jones 299
Wheat 25c in Walla Walla 342
Wheeler, A. 570
Wheeler Blockhouse. The 569
Wheeler, C. H. 573
Wheeler, Charles 569, 571
Wheeler, Olin D. 124
Wheeler, George 571
White Bluffs "Spokesman" 538, 886
"White Eagle" 156
White,- Charles A 285
White, Fred 273
White Bluffs 886
White Elephant," The 848
White Swan 548
Whitfield, W. G. 781
Whitman becomes lost 177
Whitman goes to Boston 179
Whitman, Perrin B. 179
Whitman's letter to Secretary Porter_179
Whitman massacre. The 184
Whitman Mission 185
Whitman College 169
Whitman controversy. The 175
Whitman's diary, Mrs. 169
Whitman, Marcus 164, 169
Whitman, Alice Clarissa 172
W^hitney, F. C. & Son 514
Whitson, Mrs. Edward 891
Whitson. A. B. 568
Whitson, Edward
288, 344, 360, 394. 410. 484. 892
Whitsons. Edward and Albert 568
"Who drank whisky off Peupeumox-
niox' ears?" 243
"Who was the Jonah?" 434
Whyama i 87
Wigle, Dan 571
Wilbur, James H 190, 255, 540
Wilbur stops German peddling
booze 543
Wilcox, C. A. 289
Wiley, A. J. 366
Wiley, Hugh and family 275
Wiley City 786
Wiley, Lovina Sherman 475
Wiley, Martha 475. 891
Wiley. Wallace 352, 891
Wiley, W. W. 891
Wilgus, Mrs. G. W. 909
Wilgus. George 813
Wilkes. Capt. Charles 91. 195
Wilkes Expedition, The 195
Willamette University 169
Williams. Miss N. X 843
Williams, Miss Kate 877
Williams, F. A. 517
Williams. O. 456
Williams, Mrs. Wallis 904
Wilkinson, D. S. 887'
Willoughby, Perry 538, 885
Williamson, Mrs. O. K 904. 907
Williamson, Mrs. E. B 904
Wilson, William 275. 565
Wilson. W^oodrow 287
Wilton. W^iUiam 98
Winship Brothers 137
Winthrop describes scenes and ad-
ventures 209
Winthrop, Theodore 92
Wishpoosh myth 44
Weisberger, Mrs. Maude 906
Witters, H. C. 763
Wiyeast 90
Womack. Virgil 522
^Voman's Committee, Council Na-
tional Defense 906
Women's Clubs 891, 898
Woman's Club of Yakima, The 899
Woman's Club in Red Cross work__900
Woman's Missionary Society 481
Woman suffrage 617
Woodcock, Ernest 474, 475
Woodcock, Mrs. Frances E 478
Woodcock. Fenn B., sketch of 476
Woodcock, Etha 475
Woodcock Academy principals 474
Woodcock Academy 474
Woodin. Ira 204
Wool, General 240
Woolery, Mary Ann 206
World's trotting record broken 495
World war, Yakima's financial part in 449
Would eliminate profiteering 386
W^ould develop sugar beet industry__387
Would accommodate 50,000 families_388
Would cost six millions 389
Wright, Col. George 244
Wright's letter to General Jones 245
Wyeth. Nathaniel 159, 168
Yahpahmox 917. 920
Yakima, an industrial center 447
Yakima Basalt 59
Yakima Business College 473
954
Vakinia Canal and Land Co 359
Yakima Chamber of Commerce,
Executives of 485
Yakima churches 478
Yakima city officials, 1886-1917 430
Yakima Commercial Club— 328. 371, 484
Yakima County press in small towns. 517
Yakima County private schools 47.1
Yakima County teachers. Directory
of 460
Yakima Daily Times 513
Yakima Democrat 514
Yakima Democrat on municipal poli-
tics 432
Yakima exports, 1917 i2i
Yakima fruit for passing soldiers 906
Yakima Hardware Co. 415
Yakima "Herald" advertisers, 1898
416-41X
Yakima "Herald" on 1918 fair 489
Yakima Historical Society 891
"Yakima" Hotel, The 894
Yakima Improvement & Irrigation
Co. 354
Yakima "Independent" 514
Yakima Indian reservation 539
Yakima Inter-Valley Traction Co 344
Yakima Irrigating and Improvement
Co. 916
"Yakima, My Yakima" 376
Yakima Pioneer Association 204
Yakima "Record" 497
Yakima "Republican" 501
Yakima Reservation, Crop census 553
Yakima schools in 1902 458
Yakima's commissioned men in World
war 450
Yakima's contribution of men to
World war 450
Yakima's contribution to Cle Elum--772
Yakima's financial part in World war.449
Yakima's honor roll (World war)-_451
Yakima "Signal" : 291, 502
Yakima Social Club 485
Yakima Valley District Federation. .903
Yakima Valley farmer 513
Yakima Valley geology 48
Yakima Valley "Optimist" 517
Yakima Valley Potato Growers' As-
sociation 555
Yakima Valley Press, The 496
Yakima Valley Transportation Co. .344
Yakima "Washingtonian" 514
Yakima was tough place in '86 403
Yelieppit 128
York. W. Z. 259, 918
Young, B. F. 353
Young Chief 225
Young. Ewing 194. 218
Young. Joseph 229
Young. S. A. M. 557
Zillah and Granger 795
Zillah "Free Press" 517, 523. 796
Zillah officers 796
Zimmerman, W. S. 515
Zokeseye 279
Zuniwalt. John 268
K
(/'